When author Michael Pollan takes on a subject he likes to fully immerse himself. Twenty years ago he became interested in how supermarket steaks were produced so he bought himself a cow. “Oh yeah, 534!” he laughs when I remind him (Pollan didn’t give the animal a name in case he became emotionally attached to it). “I learnt so much about industrial farming methods following my young cow’s experiences.” That makes me slightly edgy about today’s meeting. His latest book is about what it’s like to
