One foodie describes it as the spice an angel would sprinkle from its wings. Words: Jane Wrigglesworth Peggy Knickerbocker (true name) is an esteemed San Francisco-based food writer who has contributed to Gourmet, Saveur, Food and Wine, House and Garden, The San Francisco Chronicle, The Los Angeles Times and The New York Times. Her take on fennel pollen is irresistible. “If angels sprinkled a spice from their wings, this would be it,” she wrote. “I sprinkled a pinch of it on fish before grilling. I scattered a bit over roasted vegetables, and then I tried it on a pork roast.