A bistecca alla Fiorentina is so good that it needs almost no intervention. Under the right circumstances, you can just cook it and sprinkle it with salt. Those circumstances, though, would be a wood-fired oven, a griddle and a small trattoria in Florence that’s been in the family for three generations. For complete authenticity, it would also require the best porterhouse steak cut from a fully grown Chianina ox, measuring three or four fingers thick. Not easy to replicate. The Fiorentina is ideal for cooking on a big barbecue or grill, as long as the temperature is controllable — you need to be able to drop it fast and accurately — and the top can be closed. If you do this, sear the steak directly on the grill first, then finish it in a pan placed on the grill. A small amount of oak or other aromatic wood would not be inappropriate. For a small dinner party or a special family meal, a Fiorentina is little sort of magical. Visually, it makes a stunning centrepiece. It’s an absolute breeze to carve and then, on the plate, there are big, equal-size chunks of chewy, strong flavoured sirloin and lean, subtle fillet, all perfectly finished. There’s plenty of excellent fat for those who like it and an incredible blend of meat juice and garlicky, herby oil to lubricate everything. It’s not a cheap cut but of all the grandest steaks, this is the one that will convince your guests that when meat is this good, you don’t need so much.
