I have been making this delicate, fragrant cake for over two decades now, and it never disappoints. It’s not showy — the only adornment is a light dusting of icing sugar — but it doesn’t need to shout: the proof of et cetera, et cetera; this is a cake that underpromises but overdelivers. I love this mostly as a cake for pudding (though there is nothing wrong at all with a slice with a cup of tea) when I also serve it with raspberries, or whatever fruit is on hand, depending on the season. Don’t panic about the fact that no raising agent is used: the cake doesn’t need it. Though I have made a small recent adjustment to the recipe: you will note that I have given an option of replacing the regular flour with rice flour. I did this in order to make the cake gluten-free for a friend of mine, and I have (even though I am on excellent terms with gluten myself) rather got into the habit of baking it this way. So I happily give you the choice. For US cup measures, use the toggle at the top of the ingredients list.