I’ve no idea why, but I’ve been seeing those distinctive, yellow-and-blue tins of Old Bay Seasoning everywhere recently. This spice mix from Baltimore – “for seafood, poultry, salads, meats,” the label promises – comes in three varieties: original, hot, and lemon and herb. I tried this with all three before eventually settling on hot, so by all means use whichever you prefer or can get hold of. Alternatively, use a Cajun spice mix, or a combination of celery salt, cayenne pepper, garlic and onion granules, and smoked paprika