This is a dish that requires thick, meaty ribs – the sort that would normally be braised slowly for 7 hours or more – not the skinny ends. If you can only get skinny ribs, reduce the cooking time by 10 minutes. The flavour is based around gochujang, the Korean hot red pepper paste, which can give fire and sweetness and a deep red colour to anything you add it to. The cooking time is, frankly, miraculous, with several hours being reduced to 30–45 minutes.