One way to subvert the usual lettuce narrative is to do something wholly unexpected with it, as in the baked lettuce and onion tart we shared with you yesterday. Another way is to expand the idea of lettuce itself — as in this crisp, bitter chicory salad from the bright minds behind Bar Tartine in San Francisco. Chicories are bitter greens with a more assertive bite than sweet and tender garden greens, but that bitterness means they stand up well to a strong dressing.