Схемы вязания крючком для персонажей мультфильмов или фильмов. Вязаные герои мультфильмов. Пошаговые мастер классы по вязания игрушек крючком.
Các cách sáng tạo làm các đồ vật đơn giản, đồ trang trí, cách tận dụng đồ đạc cũ, chỉ những vật đơn giản mà bạn đã có một món đồ handmade ý nghĩa.
This listing is for an extensive PDF file which contains full instructions for crocheting and finishing off the doll YLVI. The pattern contains a lot of detailed step-by-step photographs along with full pattern instructions and tips for crocheting, jointing and finishing neatly. In addition to textual instructions, there are also crochet charts available in the pattern. Only the shoes, the underskirt, the shawl, the bag and the flowers of the doll are removable. All other clothes are fix connected with the doll. This pattern uses US crochet terms. Skill level: intermediate to advanced F i n i s h e d S i z e: The doll measures approx. 13.5” or 34 cm. What you will need: M a t e r i a l s: That`s the yarn I used: • CATANIA - Schachenmayr and CATONA - Scheepjes; sport weight yarn, 100% Cotton, 1.76 ounces = 137 yards/50 grams = 125 meters, 17 colors • BABY ALPACA SILK - Drops Design; sport weight yarn, 70% Alpaca, 30% Silk, 1.80 ounces = 183 yards/50 grams = 167 meters • Fiberfill • Optional: foam hair roller or quilt batting or a wired skeleton (for more stability) • 2 black safety eyes, Ø 1/4” or 6 mm • Cardboard or plastic for the feet • 2 buttons for the shoes, Ø 3/8-1/2” or 10 12 mm • Wire for the arms and the stems of the flowers • Strong thread resistant (dental floss) for the thread jointing • Sewing thread to sew on the wig and the buttons • Transparent nail polish (or glue) for fixing the stems of the flowers. N o t i o n s: • Hook size US 0 (2.0 mm), US 1½ (2.5 mm), US 2½ (3.0 mm) and US 3 (3.5 mm) • Yarn needles (usual and extra long) • Sewing needle • Sewing thread • Stitch marker (12 x) • Scissors • Pins • Optional: wooden spoon/chopstick and clamping scissor to simplify the filling • Cutting pliers: especially useful for cutting the wire to the desired length. • Flat-nose pliers: not mandatory but very useful for bending the ends of the wire Copyright, Carola Herbst, CAROcreated, 2020 All rights reserved All images and designs, including the name and description of this pattern, are the intellectual property of CAROcreated / Carola Herbst. The pattern is for personal use only. The pattern or parts of it (including photos) may be not reproduced, redistributed, resold, translated, published (online or printed), altered, shared or posted (for sale or free) over the internet or offline! You are welcome to sell finished creation using my pattern - in limited serie and handmade by you. Please include a link or reference to my shop www.etsy.com/shop/CAROcreated, if you will list it on internet. *********************************************************************** Du erhältst mit diesem Angebot eine umfangreiche PDF-Datei, die eine ausführliche Anleitung für das Häkeln und die Fertigstellung der Puppe YLVI enthält. Die umfangreiche Datei enthält neben vielen detaillierten Schritt-für-Schritt Fotos ausführliche Anweisungen und Tipps zum Häkeln und zur Fertigstellung der Puppe. Neben textlichen Anweisungen enthält die Anleitungen auch Häkeldiagramme. Die Schuhe, der Unterrock, der Schal, die Tasche und die Blumen der Puppe sind “ausziehbar” bzw. “abnehmbar”, alle anderen Teile sind fest mit der Puppe verbunden. Es handelt sich hier also NICHT um die Anleitung für eine An- & Ausziehpuppe. Schwierigkeitsgrad: mittel-schwer F e r t i g e G r ö ß e: Bei Verwendung des angegebenen Materials misst die Puppe ca. 34 cm . MATERIAL: Garn: CATANIA – Schachenmayr & CATONA - Scheepjes (100% Baumwolle, LL 50 g = 125 m), 17 Farben BABY ALPACA SILK – Drops Design (70% Alpaca, 30% Seide, LL 50 g = 167 m), 1 Farbe • Füllwatte • optional: flexible Lockenstäbe, Schaumstoff-Lockenwickler oder Volumen-Vlies (für eine bessere Stabilität der Puppe) • 2 schwarze Sicherheitsaugen, Ø 6 mm • Plastik oder Pappe für die Fußsohlen • 2 Knöpfe für die Jacke, Ø 10-12 mm • Draht für die Arme und die Blumenstängel • reißfester Faden (z.B. Zahnseide) • Nähgarn zum Annähen der Perücke und der Knöpfe • Durchsichtiger Nagellack (oder Kleber) für die Blumenstängel WERKZEUGE: • Häkelnadel 2,0 mm, 2,5 mm, 3,0 mm und 3,5 mm • Sticknadel (normal und extra lang) • Nähnadel • Nähgarn • Rundenmarkierer (12 x) • Stecknadeln • Schere • Optional: Holzlöffel und Klemmschere zum Stopfen • Schneidezange (zum Zuschneiden des Drahtes) • Flachzange (nicht zwingend erforderlich, aber sehr nützlich zum Umbiegen der Enden des Drahtes) Copyright - 2020, Carola Herbst Alle Rechte vorbehalten. Verkauf, Vervielfältigung, Tausch und Veröffentlichung (inkl. Übersetzung und Fotos) der Anleitung (einschließlich Veröffentlichung im Internet) sind untersagt. Der Verkauf des nach dieser Anleitung gehäkelten fertigen Produktes ist aber erlaubt. Erfolgt der Verkauf im Internet, bitte einen Link zu meinem Shop setzen (https://www.etsy.com/shop/CAROcreated)
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I can't count how many times this year I've received e-mails from readers asking if I could make them a ballerina doll because they didn't think they could tackle the hand embroidered eyes. But since I know for a fact that anyone can sew embroidered eyes, I decided to post a tutorial to take the mystery out of it. If you can believe it, I actually find sewing doll eyes to be slightly easier than the blanket stitch on pincushion leaves. Let's jump in! Technique Tutorial: Satin-Stitched Doll Eyes 1. So. First things first: embroider the eyes before you sew the hair. That way if something goes so awry that you need to start over, you haven't wasted felt or time sewing the hair (but you won't, because you have this handy tutorial to guide you!). 2. In order to get symmetrical eyes, it's important to start with accurate tracing. In the past, I have taped the pattern to a sunny window and held the fabric on top of it, however my preferred method now is to use a light box, so I don't have to worry about the fabric slipping around on top of the paper or the awkward angle for tracing. If it's still too slippery, go ahead and use a bit of tape to keep everything in place. If you're curious, this is my favorite fabric pen. 3. Sew small backstitches around the eye circles. I aim to have the needle tip go through exactly the center of the traced line or just on the outer edge, then make sure it goes back into the same hole as the previous stitch. Try to be consistent with your needle placement as this will help your circle to be as round as possible. Don't be afraid to take out a stitch or two if your circle forms a little angle. It is way easier to take out a couple of stitches now than to try to camouflage it later. If your circle is persistently angular, your stitches are probably too large. 4. Fill in the circle with satin stitches. Start your stitches right next to the backstitches, or slightly in between them. Try to fill in all the fabric underneath the first time around, but go back and fill in the gaps later if necessary. Start at the bottom of the eye and end at the top. Don't pull the thread super tight, just enough so the thread lies pretty flat and the fabric underneath doesn't wrinkle. Think you're finished filling in the eye? Peek-a-boo! A little gap likes to hide at the top of the eye; use your needle to push the thread downward, hold it with your thumb, and then sew another satin stitch or two to fill in the remaining space. 5. On to the eyelashes! These are just a few little backstitches. I sew the long line downward (2-3 stitches) so the last stitch is even with the bottom of the eye, then add a stitch for each eyelash, sewing the bottom lash first and then the one above. Tie off the knot on the back and trim the thread. 6. This last step is crucial, as it adds some sparkle to your doll's eyes. Sew a single white stitch in the upper right corner of each eye. Aim to have the stitches in the same spot on each eye, even if they aren't exactly where my stitches are. Again, if it doesn't look right, take it out and try again. It's just one stitch and worth a little extra effort to get it the way you want! On the other hand, don't stress about the inevitable imperfections that are part handmade sewing. My doll eyes are never perfectly even. So when you are struggling a little bit, when you have the urge to just throw it away, sleep on it and take another look in the morning, it's never as bad as you think! Do you have any questions about hand stitching the eyes? Or is there something else keeping you from making your first doll? Let me know and maybe I can help de-mystify it for you! Happy Stitching! P.S. The darling girl pictured above is not my daughter (I know I've been away for a while, but it hasn't been that long!). Isn't she the most adorable little model?
Looking for the most adorable amigurumi doll patterns? You'll find paid and free projects, girl and boy dolls, and they are all completely captivating. Do you remember your favorite doll? I have two that I absolutely adored as a little girl. The first was a Holly Hobby fabric doll that wore the sweetest little calico
