Toen ik deze herfst pompoen huisjes raamtekening vond wist ik dat ik ‘m in de shop moest zetten, deze ga ik zelf ook tekenen :) R A A M T E K E N I N Gformaat – afmetingen zijn afgerondS – 24,5 x 16 cmM – 40 x 27 cmL – 57 x 38 cmXL – 80 x 53,5 cmXXL – 114 x 76 cmtekst document met afmetingen zit inbegrepen bij de download ontwerp normaal / gespiegelddesigns zonder tekst worden niet gespiegeld aangeleverdtekening user21833923 / FP

German Conversations and Dialogues

Get more from ɴᴏ sᴛʏʟᴇ x ᴡ ᴏ ᴏ ᴅ ʟ ᴀ ɴ ᴅ on Patreon

Visit the post for more.

tuinarchitect Linda van de Lavoir uit Rotterdam laat haar 5 favorieten bloeiende klimplanten zien

Get more from ɴᴏ sᴛʏʟᴇ x ᴡ ᴏ ᴏ ᴅ ʟ ᴀ ɴ ᴅ on Patreon

I M P O R T A N T N O T I C E : This is an instant download digital product. You will not receive a physical product. You will only have a digital product. Instant digital download of 12 beautiful prints of colourful lithographs from the The Natural History of British Fishes: Including scientific and general descriptions of the most interesting species (1802) by Edward Donovan (1768–1837). I have carefully edited each individual file to ensure they fit into the different dimensions without any unnecessary or weirdly shaped white borders. Instead, I have extended the existing borders on each artwork. Each ratio looks beautiful to ensure they fit into whatever frames you like to create a stunning gallery wall. Welcome to ArtMastersDigital – the home of beautiful wall art. The artwork in our store has been created by the art world’s great masters and edited by us to create high quality print-at-home designs in a variety of dimensions to suit any frames. This is an easy and approachable way to add beautiful art to your home and create a statement without breaking the bank. Buy the prints you like, print them at home or with a local printer and hang them on your wall. For further info about printing, please refer to the FAQs on our shop’s homepage. I M P O R T A N T N O T I C E : This is an instant download digital product. You will not receive a physical product. You will only have a digital product. --------------------------------------------------------------------- By ordering this product, you will receive files in the following ratios to fit any frame. . 2:3 ratio file to print inch : 4x6, 6x9, 8x12, 10x15, 12x18, 16x24 cm : 10x15, 20x30, 30x45 . 3:4 ratio file to print inch : 6x8, 9x12, 12x16, 15x20 cm : 15x20, 30x40 . 4:5 ratio file to print inch : 8x10, 12x15, 16x20 cm : 8x10, 12x15, 40x50 . International ratio file to print A4, A3, A2 cm : 50x70 . 11:14 ratio file to print inch : 11x14 cm : 11x14 ------------------------------------------------------------- H O W I T W O R K S : When you place your order, you will receive an Etsy email with a download link. You can also find your purchased files when you go to your purchases on Etsy: Your Account- Purchases- Order: https://www.etsy.com/your/purchases If you purchased as a 'guest', you will receive an automated email from Etsy containing your download links. Please check your spam/junk folders, or if using Gmail the social/promotions tabs. This is not a physical item. Nothing is shipped. As the files are so large, you will receive a PDF with a link to the google drive folder where the files are located. You can download the files on your computer. Please note, the link may not work on a smartphone or a tablet. . Print at home on your own printer . Print at a printing center or use an online print service such as theprintspace.co.uk or gelato.com We recommend using a heavier matte paper 200gsm+ for better quality Here is a helpful article about digital downloads. https://www.etsy.com/help/article/3949 ------------------------------------------------------ T E R M S O F U S E: This Art Masters Digital Print is for PERSONAL USE ONLY Art Masters Digital is NOT a public domain source DO NOT use our digital files for reproduction in commercial use or resale in any form © ART MASTERS DIGITAL

Get more from ɴᴏ sᴛʏʟᴇ x ᴡ ᴏ ᴏ ᴅ ʟ ᴀ ɴ ᴅ on Patreon

tuinarchitect Linda van de Lavoir uit Rotterdam laat haar 5 favorieten bloeiende klimplanten zien

sim dump this sim dump is a gift to all the people that follow my tumblr and the friends and community i have in @jaechyj 's server ! i love you all sm and have a great day download here : ♡ in ord…

tuinarchitect Linda van de Lavoir uit Rotterdam laat haar 5 favorieten bloeiende klimplanten zien

Papicolor ToPrint 160grs wit Karton A4 wit 160 grams 10 vel is uitermate geschikt om op te stempelen of te printen (laser en inkjet) wit - gladde structuur 160 grams 10 vel A4

The Letter M Do-A-Dot Worksheet is perfect for a hands-on activity to practice recognizing the letters of the alphabet and differentiating between uppercase and lowercase letters.

Learn to speak German with these basic and advanced grammar and vocabulary lessons, quizzes, study tips, and articles about German culture.

Get more from ɴᴏ sᴛʏʟᴇ x ᴡ ᴏ ᴏ ᴅ ʟ ᴀ ɴ ᴅ on Patreon

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10203654714264601&set=g.234664240065427&type=1&theaterSpecial thanks to Stephen Kroninger, Mark Newgarden, Jerry Beck Tom Gammill & Zach Trenholm

I have always found sewing anything round kind of tricky - but I've finally found a formula for sewing bolster cushion covers that works really well! TOOLS & MATERIALS: - 1 Meter of fabric - 1 Meter of piping material (I prefer to use the non-plastic type) - 1 bolster pillow form - 1 zipper (just slightly longer than the length of your pillow form) - Thread - Sewing machine - Scissors - Straight pins - Iron - Seam ripper - Pencil - Carpenter's Square (optional) METHOD: STEP 1: Measure your pillow form Using a soft measuring tape, measure the length of your pillow form from seam to seam and add 1" onto your measurement to determine the length of the body of your pillow cover. (In my case, my bolster pillow was 14" long, so with the added 1" my working measurement for the length of my pillow cover was 15") Now measure the diameter (length across the middle) of the end of the pillow form (again from seam to seam) and add 1" onto that measurement as well. (In my case the diameter of the end of my pillow form was 6", so with the added 1" my working measurement was 7"). To find the appropriate width for the body of your cushion cover, take the diameter of the end of the pillow form + 1" (in my case 7" total) and multiply it by 3.14 (otherwise known as Pi - who knew math had a practical application?). In my case this turned out to be 19.84". STEP 2: Cut your fabric a) Cut the body of your pillow cover according to your measurements (for me: 15" x 19.84") *Tip* I have found that using a carpenter's square to help me measure and mark my fabric has provided me with greater accuracy in cutting, which helps to avoid problems later on. b) Cut 2, 2" strips from your fabric for the piping just slightly longer than the width of your pillow body (in my case I cut them about 21" long), and 2 pieces of piping material the same length as the width of your pillow body (19.84" in my case). c) Cut 2 circular end pieces with a diameter in accordance to the measurement of the diameter of your pillow form + 1" (in my case 7"). *Tip* Use a compass or perfectly round object of some kind that you can trace the circle onto your fabric and then cut it out. In my case I rummaged through my kitchen until I found a pot that I had with a 7" diameter. This is what your pieces should look like: STEP 3: Install zipper a) Take the body of your pillow cover and fold it in half right-side to ride side along the length (15" side in my case). Pin along the edge and sew a basting stitch across the length with a 1/2" seam. *Tip* A basting stitch is just a temporary stitch used to hold things in place for the time being. Use the longest stitch length you have on your machine (in my case 4) and do not secure the beginning or end. b) Open the right-sides of the seam, and iron flat. c) Place the zipper face down across the length of the pillow cover body with the teeth of the zipper right against the edge of the basting-stitch seam. *Tip* Leave the zipper head hanging off the edge of your fabric so it doesn't get in your way. Pin the upper edge of the zipper to the upper edge of the fabric and sew in place using a zipper-foot on your machine (try to get as close to the zipper teeth with your seam as you can). Pin the bottom edge of the zipper to the bottom edge of the seam (make sure you don't go all the way through to the body - just get the seam) and sew in place. d) Zig-zag the edges of the zipper to the edges of the fabric for extra strength. e) Push the zipper-head down so that it sits about 1" away from the edge of the fabric. Secure the end of the zipper about 1/2" away from the edge of the fabric by going back & forth over it with your sewing machine a couple of times. You may need to rip a couple of the basting stitches in order to push the zipper-head down. Secure the end of the zipper by going back & forth over it with your sewing machine a couple of times. Secure the end of the zipper in the same way. e) Trim off the zipper excess and turn the pillow cover body right-side out. Use a seam-ripper to cut the basting stitches and open the zipper. Pull out the basting stitches. STEP 4: Sew the piping a) Fold one end of the piping strip over about 1/2" and iron flat. Fold the strip of fabric in half lengthwise (right-side out) and iron flat. Open the fabric, and place the piping material inside, against the fold, starting just before the folded over edge. Fold the fabric over the piping and pin in place as snug as possible. Sew along the length of the piping using a zipper-foot on your machine, getting the seam as close to the piping as possible. b) Trim off the raw edge of the piping, so that you have about 1/2" of fabric next to the piping. Snip the 1/2" edge of fabric (being careful not to get too close to the piping) at 1cm intervals along the length of the piping. STEP 5: Sew the piping onto the end pieces a) Mark a starting point on the edge of your circular end pieces (right-side up). Starting with the folded end of the piping, pin the piping around the outside edge of the end piece, placing the end of the piping material at the starting point marked on the end piece (the empty, folded over edge should extend past the starting point). Starting point is placed at the first snip. b) Trim the raw end of the piping so that it matches up to the starting point. Tuck the raw end of the piping into the folded end of the piping and pin in place. Sew the piping in place using a zipper-foot on your machine (try to get the seam as close to the piping as possible - this can be a little tricky). Repeat for the other end piece. STEP 6: Attach the end pieces to the body. a) Place the zipper half-way down the length of the body and turn the body inside-out. b) Position the end piece right-side in, and match the zipper seam on the body to the starting point on the end piece. Pin the outside edge of the body to the outside edge of the end piece all along the circumference of the end piece. It should match up precisely (this is why I find using the carpenter's square to measure and mark my fabric before I cut important). Repeat on the other end. Sew the ends to the body using a zipper-foot on your machine, getting the seam as tight to the piping as you possibly can. c) Turn the pillow cover right-side out and check your seams along the piping. If it's not tight enough, turn it inside out again and give it another go (this can be tricky to get right tight on the first go). When you are satisfied, zig-zag the edges for added strength. STEP 7: Stuff the pillow Turn the pillow cover right-side out and hold your breath while you insert the pillow form. It should be snug, but you shouldn't have to struggle to do up the zipper. Fluff and smooth the pillow form inside the cover until you are satisfied with the shape and enjoy your new bolster pillow!