Today is the last day in our Thayer Sew-Along and we'll be inserting our buttonholes and setting our buttons. In this version we're using jeans buttons but regular buttons work just as well. To begin grab your buttonhole guide (piece 15) and align it along the front edge of the right front. Mark the buttonholes according to the size labels. The space between the buttonholes is graded between sizes so make sure you're marking the right lines! We recommend measuring the spacing after you mark to double check the placement and that the correct lines were marked. Since you're putting a buttonhole into your finished jacket, the back is potentially a fuzzy sweatshirt material, and there is a topstitched seam allowance just to the right of the front placement, we highly recommend making a small fake front like we did here. You do NOT need to put a pocket on it, we just made this while testing out some topstitching. The important part is to mimic the front edge of your jacket and run that through your machine before you try it out on your jacket. The other thing we've found useful is using Stitch-N-Tear under the buttonhole so that the feed dogs are running on this instead of the fuzzy lining. We've found the buttonholes just form a bit better this way as you can see below. Here you can see a buttonhole without Stitch-N-Tear and with. I would not be unhappy with the top buttonhole, but the bottom is just so perfect. It really does make a difference. If you do use Stitch-N-Tear, place it behind the buttonhole, insert the buttonhole as normal, then just tear the paper off the back of the jacket. Once you've tested out your buttonhole and made sure your button fits through it, it's time to insert them into your jacket! This will vary based on your machine so we aren't going to cover the specifics of setting up your buttonhole. Once all your buttonholes are in, trim your threads and double check you're happy with them...the next step is cutting them open! We prefer to use a buttonhole chisel to cut open our buttonholes. I know this is something people are either strongly for, or strongly against, but just know I have watched people slice through their fabric with a seam ripper, even when there's a pin stuck through the end. The force you need to exert on a thick fabric like this can cause the seam ripper to pivot at the pin and slice the side of the buttonhole open. With the chisel you simply place the wood block behind the buttonhole, place the chisel tip inside the buttonhole, and press. That's it! You can see why we're sold. Slice open the buttonholes, it's now time for the buttons! Place the button template (piece 14) along the front edge of the left side of the jacket and mark the button placement. We recommend checking the placement against the buttonholes before you finalize your markings to make sure everything is perfectly aligned. Now using an awl, poke a small hole into your jacket where the jeans button will go. Grab your button and a hammer. Place the button stud through the hole you made with your awl. Here's a little animation to show you both sides of the jacket at this point. Place the stud into top of the button, with the button face down. We're going to hammer onto the stud rather than the button face. We've put down a cutting mat under our button so that it doesn't get marred during this process. Now give the button a few good hits with the hammer. You want to hammer hard enough so that the button is tight around the fabric, but not so hard that the stud comes through and dents the front of the button. We highly recommend testing this out on your fake jacket front before putting them into your actual jacket. From the back your button looks like this. And from the front it looks like this! Continue putting in the rest of the buttons as you did for this one. If you haven't already put the buttons into the yoke pockets, you'll need to do that now as well. All the steps are the same. And that wraps up the Thayer Sew-Along! Thank you so much for following along with us, I hope we've helped you make a most successful jacket and have answered your questions along the way! You can check out the rest of the sew-along posts here if you missed anything and if you have any q's on the buttons and buttonholes, let us know in the comments below!

Блузка Ketty К-15840 черно-белый в размере 44-54 купить в Минске с доставкой по РБ и РФ, примерка, цена, фото

Блузка LM 1621 голубой в размере 44-60 купить в Минске с доставкой по РБ и РФ, примерка, цена, фото

Today is the last day in our Thayer Sew-Along and we'll be inserting our buttonholes and setting our buttons. In this version we're using jeans buttons but regular buttons work just as well. To begin grab your buttonhole guide (piece 15) and align it along the front edge of the right front. Mark the buttonholes according to the size labels. The space between the buttonholes is graded between sizes so make sure you're marking the right lines! We recommend measuring the spacing after you mark to double check the placement and that the correct lines were marked. Since you're putting a buttonhole into your finished jacket, the back is potentially a fuzzy sweatshirt material, and there is a topstitched seam allowance just to the right of the front placement, we highly recommend making a small fake front like we did here. You do NOT need to put a pocket on it, we just made this while testing out some topstitching. The important part is to mimic the front edge of your jacket and run that through your machine before you try it out on your jacket. The other thing we've found useful is using Stitch-N-Tear under the buttonhole so that the feed dogs are running on this instead of the fuzzy lining. We've found the buttonholes just form a bit better this way as you can see below. Here you can see a buttonhole without Stitch-N-Tear and with. I would not be unhappy with the top buttonhole, but the bottom is just so perfect. It really does make a difference. If you do use Stitch-N-Tear, place it behind the buttonhole, insert the buttonhole as normal, then just tear the paper off the back of the jacket. Once you've tested out your buttonhole and made sure your button fits through it, it's time to insert them into your jacket! This will vary based on your machine so we aren't going to cover the specifics of setting up your buttonhole. Once all your buttonholes are in, trim your threads and double check you're happy with them...the next step is cutting them open! We prefer to use a buttonhole chisel to cut open our buttonholes. I know this is something people are either strongly for, or strongly against, but just know I have watched people slice through their fabric with a seam ripper, even when there's a pin stuck through the end. The force you need to exert on a thick fabric like this can cause the seam ripper to pivot at the pin and slice the side of the buttonhole open. With the chisel you simply place the wood block behind the buttonhole, place the chisel tip inside the buttonhole, and press. That's it! You can see why we're sold. Slice open the buttonholes, it's now time for the buttons! Place the button template (piece 14) along the front edge of the left side of the jacket and mark the button placement. We recommend checking the placement against the buttonholes before you finalize your markings to make sure everything is perfectly aligned. Now using an awl, poke a small hole into your jacket where the jeans button will go. Grab your button and a hammer. Place the button stud through the hole you made with your awl. Here's a little animation to show you both sides of the jacket at this point. Place the stud into top of the button, with the button face down. We're going to hammer onto the stud rather than the button face. We've put down a cutting mat under our button so that it doesn't get marred during this process. Now give the button a few good hits with the hammer. You want to hammer hard enough so that the button is tight around the fabric, but not so hard that the stud comes through and dents the front of the button. We highly recommend testing this out on your fake jacket front before putting them into your actual jacket. From the back your button looks like this. And from the front it looks like this! Continue putting in the rest of the buttons as you did for this one. If you haven't already put the buttons into the yoke pockets, you'll need to do that now as well. All the steps are the same. And that wraps up the Thayer Sew-Along! Thank you so much for following along with us, I hope we've helped you make a most successful jacket and have answered your questions along the way! You can check out the rest of the sew-along posts here if you missed anything and if you have any q's on the buttons and buttonholes, let us know in the comments below!

Жакет полуприлегающего силуэта, полочки обработаны подкладкой. На полочке вертикальные вытачки, карманы прорезные в рамку. Воротник пиджачного типа. Застежка на три петли, три пуговицы. Рукав втачнойдвухшовный. Спинка со средним швом, рельефными вытачками

Костюм/комплект LM К6667 черный в размере 42-58 купить в Минске с доставкой по РБ и РФ, примерка, цена, фото

Today is the last day in our Thayer Sew-Along and we'll be inserting our buttonholes and setting our buttons. In this version we're using jeans buttons but regular buttons work just as well. To begin grab your buttonhole guide (piece 15) and align it along the front edge of the right front. Mark the buttonholes according to the size labels. The space between the buttonholes is graded between sizes so make sure you're marking the right lines! We recommend measuring the spacing after you mark to double check the placement and that the correct lines were marked. Since you're putting a buttonhole into your finished jacket, the back is potentially a fuzzy sweatshirt material, and there is a topstitched seam allowance just to the right of the front placement, we highly recommend making a small fake front like we did here. You do NOT need to put a pocket on it, we just made this while testing out some topstitching. The important part is to mimic the front edge of your jacket and run that through your machine before you try it out on your jacket. The other thing we've found useful is using Stitch-N-Tear under the buttonhole so that the feed dogs are running on this instead of the fuzzy lining. We've found the buttonholes just form a bit better this way as you can see below. Here you can see a buttonhole without Stitch-N-Tear and with. I would not be unhappy with the top buttonhole, but the bottom is just so perfect. It really does make a difference. If you do use Stitch-N-Tear, place it behind the buttonhole, insert the buttonhole as normal, then just tear the paper off the back of the jacket. Once you've tested out your buttonhole and made sure your button fits through it, it's time to insert them into your jacket! This will vary based on your machine so we aren't going to cover the specifics of setting up your buttonhole. Once all your buttonholes are in, trim your threads and double check you're happy with them...the next step is cutting them open! We prefer to use a buttonhole chisel to cut open our buttonholes. I know this is something people are either strongly for, or strongly against, but just know I have watched people slice through their fabric with a seam ripper, even when there's a pin stuck through the end. The force you need to exert on a thick fabric like this can cause the seam ripper to pivot at the pin and slice the side of the buttonhole open. With the chisel you simply place the wood block behind the buttonhole, place the chisel tip inside the buttonhole, and press. That's it! You can see why we're sold. Slice open the buttonholes, it's now time for the buttons! Place the button template (piece 14) along the front edge of the left side of the jacket and mark the button placement. We recommend checking the placement against the buttonholes before you finalize your markings to make sure everything is perfectly aligned. Now using an awl, poke a small hole into your jacket where the jeans button will go. Grab your button and a hammer. Place the button stud through the hole you made with your awl. Here's a little animation to show you both sides of the jacket at this point. Place the stud into top of the button, with the button face down. We're going to hammer onto the stud rather than the button face. We've put down a cutting mat under our button so that it doesn't get marred during this process. Now give the button a few good hits with the hammer. You want to hammer hard enough so that the button is tight around the fabric, but not so hard that the stud comes through and dents the front of the button. We highly recommend testing this out on your fake jacket front before putting them into your actual jacket. From the back your button looks like this. And from the front it looks like this! Continue putting in the rest of the buttons as you did for this one. If you haven't already put the buttons into the yoke pockets, you'll need to do that now as well. All the steps are the same. And that wraps up the Thayer Sew-Along! Thank you so much for following along with us, I hope we've helped you make a most successful jacket and have answered your questions along the way! You can check out the rest of the sew-along posts here if you missed anything and if you have any q's on the buttons and buttonholes, let us know in the comments below!

Изящная блуза из тонкой и нежной ткани с атласным эффектом - отличный выбор для вечера! Блуза свободного силуэта с V-образным вырезом. Это довольно глубокий вырез, который прекрасно подчёркивает женскую грудь и линию шеи.Застежка на навесные петли и пуговицы. Рукава длинные объёмные втачные заканчиваются широкой манжетой с застёжкой на навесные петли с пуговицами. Рост фотомодели 175 см. Размер у фотомодели – 44.

Today is the last day in our Thayer Sew-Along and we'll be inserting our buttonholes and setting our buttons. In this version we're using jeans buttons but regular buttons work just as well. To begin grab your buttonhole guide (piece 15) and align it along the front edge of the right front. Mark the buttonholes according to the size labels. The space between the buttonholes is graded between sizes so make sure you're marking the right lines! We recommend measuring the spacing after you mark to double check the placement and that the correct lines were marked. Since you're putting a buttonhole into your finished jacket, the back is potentially a fuzzy sweatshirt material, and there is a topstitched seam allowance just to the right of the front placement, we highly recommend making a small fake front like we did here. You do NOT need to put a pocket on it, we just made this while testing out some topstitching. The important part is to mimic the front edge of your jacket and run that through your machine before you try it out on your jacket. The other thing we've found useful is using Stitch-N-Tear under the buttonhole so that the feed dogs are running on this instead of the fuzzy lining. We've found the buttonholes just form a bit better this way as you can see below. Here you can see a buttonhole without Stitch-N-Tear and with. I would not be unhappy with the top buttonhole, but the bottom is just so perfect. It really does make a difference. If you do use Stitch-N-Tear, place it behind the buttonhole, insert the buttonhole as normal, then just tear the paper off the back of the jacket. Once you've tested out your buttonhole and made sure your button fits through it, it's time to insert them into your jacket! This will vary based on your machine so we aren't going to cover the specifics of setting up your buttonhole. Once all your buttonholes are in, trim your threads and double check you're happy with them...the next step is cutting them open! We prefer to use a buttonhole chisel to cut open our buttonholes. I know this is something people are either strongly for, or strongly against, but just know I have watched people slice through their fabric with a seam ripper, even when there's a pin stuck through the end. The force you need to exert on a thick fabric like this can cause the seam ripper to pivot at the pin and slice the side of the buttonhole open. With the chisel you simply place the wood block behind the buttonhole, place the chisel tip inside the buttonhole, and press. That's it! You can see why we're sold. Slice open the buttonholes, it's now time for the buttons! Place the button template (piece 14) along the front edge of the left side of the jacket and mark the button placement. We recommend checking the placement against the buttonholes before you finalize your markings to make sure everything is perfectly aligned. Now using an awl, poke a small hole into your jacket where the jeans button will go. Grab your button and a hammer. Place the button stud through the hole you made with your awl. Here's a little animation to show you both sides of the jacket at this point. Place the stud into top of the button, with the button face down. We're going to hammer onto the stud rather than the button face. We've put down a cutting mat under our button so that it doesn't get marred during this process. Now give the button a few good hits with the hammer. You want to hammer hard enough so that the button is tight around the fabric, but not so hard that the stud comes through and dents the front of the button. We highly recommend testing this out on your fake jacket front before putting them into your actual jacket. From the back your button looks like this. And from the front it looks like this! Continue putting in the rest of the buttons as you did for this one. If you haven't already put the buttons into the yoke pockets, you'll need to do that now as well. All the steps are the same. And that wraps up the Thayer Sew-Along! Thank you so much for following along with us, I hope we've helped you make a most successful jacket and have answered your questions along the way! You can check out the rest of the sew-along posts here if you missed anything and if you have any q's on the buttons and buttonholes, let us know in the comments below!

Платье LM 1280 голубой в размере 44-56 купить в Минске с доставкой по РБ и РФ, примерка, цена, фото

Костюм/комплект LM К 6516 черный в размере 42-52 купить в Минске с доставкой по РБ и РФ, примерка, цена, фото

Today is the last day in our Thayer Sew-Along and we'll be inserting our buttonholes and setting our buttons. In this version we're using jeans buttons but regular buttons work just as well. To begin grab your buttonhole guide (piece 15) and align it along the front edge of the right front. Mark the buttonholes according to the size labels. The space between the buttonholes is graded between sizes so make sure you're marking the right lines! We recommend measuring the spacing after you mark to double check the placement and that the correct lines were marked. Since you're putting a buttonhole into your finished jacket, the back is potentially a fuzzy sweatshirt material, and there is a topstitched seam allowance just to the right of the front placement, we highly recommend making a small fake front like we did here. You do NOT need to put a pocket on it, we just made this while testing out some topstitching. The important part is to mimic the front edge of your jacket and run that through your machine before you try it out on your jacket. The other thing we've found useful is using Stitch-N-Tear under the buttonhole so that the feed dogs are running on this instead of the fuzzy lining. We've found the buttonholes just form a bit better this way as you can see below. Here you can see a buttonhole without Stitch-N-Tear and with. I would not be unhappy with the top buttonhole, but the bottom is just so perfect. It really does make a difference. If you do use Stitch-N-Tear, place it behind the buttonhole, insert the buttonhole as normal, then just tear the paper off the back of the jacket. Once you've tested out your buttonhole and made sure your button fits through it, it's time to insert them into your jacket! This will vary based on your machine so we aren't going to cover the specifics of setting up your buttonhole. Once all your buttonholes are in, trim your threads and double check you're happy with them...the next step is cutting them open! We prefer to use a buttonhole chisel to cut open our buttonholes. I know this is something people are either strongly for, or strongly against, but just know I have watched people slice through their fabric with a seam ripper, even when there's a pin stuck through the end. The force you need to exert on a thick fabric like this can cause the seam ripper to pivot at the pin and slice the side of the buttonhole open. With the chisel you simply place the wood block behind the buttonhole, place the chisel tip inside the buttonhole, and press. That's it! You can see why we're sold. Slice open the buttonholes, it's now time for the buttons! Place the button template (piece 14) along the front edge of the left side of the jacket and mark the button placement. We recommend checking the placement against the buttonholes before you finalize your markings to make sure everything is perfectly aligned. Now using an awl, poke a small hole into your jacket where the jeans button will go. Grab your button and a hammer. Place the button stud through the hole you made with your awl. Here's a little animation to show you both sides of the jacket at this point. Place the stud into top of the button, with the button face down. We're going to hammer onto the stud rather than the button face. We've put down a cutting mat under our button so that it doesn't get marred during this process. Now give the button a few good hits with the hammer. You want to hammer hard enough so that the button is tight around the fabric, but not so hard that the stud comes through and dents the front of the button. We highly recommend testing this out on your fake jacket front before putting them into your actual jacket. From the back your button looks like this. And from the front it looks like this! Continue putting in the rest of the buttons as you did for this one. If you haven't already put the buttons into the yoke pockets, you'll need to do that now as well. All the steps are the same. And that wraps up the Thayer Sew-Along! Thank you so much for following along with us, I hope we've helped you make a most successful jacket and have answered your questions along the way! You can check out the rest of the sew-along posts here if you missed anything and if you have any q's on the buttons and buttonholes, let us know in the comments below!

Блуза женская повседневная прямого силуэта со спущенным рукавом, выполнена из однотонного хлопка. Вырез горловины отложной ассиметричный воротник, застежка доверху на обметанные петли и пуговицы. Рукав 7/8 втачной, по низу с фигурным элементом и отделочными пуговицами, по низу блузы притачные детали с небольшой сборкой. На левой полочке накладной карман с металлической нашивкой. Низ блузы фигурный, в боковых щвах обработаны разрезы. Декором служат отделочные пуговицы и нашивки.

Модная одежда и дизайн интерьера своими руками

ЗАСТЕЖКА БРЮК НА ПЕТЛИ И ПУГОВИЦЫ =========================== Брюки с застежкой-молнией в пе... Смотрите полностью ВКонтакте.

Жакет (пиджак) PiRS 5396 голубой в размере 40-52 купить в Минске с доставкой по РБ и РФ, примерка, цена, фото

Жакет с центральной застежкой на петли и пуговицы, втачным воротником и отложными лацканами пиджачного типа. По переду с талиевыми вытачками и рельефами, выходящими из проймы. На уровне линии бедер расположены накладные карманы с клапанами. Спинка со средним швом, рельефами, выходящими из проймы. Рукав втачной, длинный. Жакет со съемным поясом.

Платье AMUAR 1015 джинс в размере 44-54 купить в Минске с доставкой по РБ и РФ, примерка, цена, фото

Рубашка Ma Сhérie делового стиля. Воротник отложной на стойке. Застежка центральная на петли и пуговицы с полупланкой, спинка цельная. На полочке расположены нагрудные вытачки. Рукав втачной одношовный с манжетой по низу. В боковых швах разрезы. Спинка длиннее полочки на 2 см. Рубашка идеально подойдет для офиса и повседневных образов. Составит идеальный комплект с нашими брюками из экокожи 2071 и 2073 или джинсовыми брюками 2066 и 2077.

Жилетка The Name 2329 бежевый, полоска в размере 42-52 купить в Минске с доставкой по РБ и РФ, примерка, цена, фото

Блузка из хлопковой ткани прямого силуэта со стильной вышивкой. Воротник отложной, застегивается на петли-пуговицы по планке до низа. Спинка на кокетке. Рукав втачной длинный с манжетой. В боковых швах разрезы.

Рубашка Ma Cherie 1113 белый в размере 46-56 купить в Минске с доставкой по РБ и РФ, примерка, цена, фото

Костюм женский двухпредметный, состоящий из жакета и брюк. Жакет полуприлегающего силуэта с центральной бортовой застёжкой на 2 петли-пуговицы до линии перегиба лацкана. Перед с отрезным бочком, в котором обработана нагрудная вытачка и с карманом с листочкой с втачными концами. Спинка со средним швом. Рукав втачной двухшовный с открытой шлицей, закреплённой двумя пуговицами. Воротник отлажной. Концы воротника и лацкана закреплены пуговицами. Брюки классического кроя слегка зауженные к низу с притачным поясом, концы которого застёгиваются на обмётанную петлю пуговицу, с застёжкой на тесьму-молнию спереди. По поясу задних половинок вставлена эластичная тесьмц - резинка. В изделии обработаны карманы, наклонные к боковым швам. По передним и задним половинкам заутюжены канты. Длина жакета по спинке - 65 см. Длина рукава - 61 см. Длина брюк по боковому шву - 98 см.

Костюм/комплект Bagira 929 синий в размере 58-62 купить в Минске с доставкой по РБ и РФ, примерка, цена, фото

Комплект женский 2-х предметный: жакет и брюки. Комплект изготовлен из двух видов тканей. Жакет слегка приталенного силуэта с центральной бортовой застежкой на 3 петли и пуговицы. Воротник пиджачного типа с отложными лацканами. По переду обработаны прорезные карманы с листочкой. Рукава втачные двухшовные. Жакет на подкладке. Брюки к низу заужены, верхний срез брюк на притачном поясе, от середины передних половинок и по спинке вставлена резинка. По переду брюк имитация гульфика, по бокам карманы с наклонным входом.

Костюм/комплект LILIANA М1334 БрЛ голубой, серый в размере 50-56 купить в Минске с доставкой по РБ и РФ, примерка, цена, фото

Комплект женский, трехпредметный, состоящий из жилета, джемпера и брюк. Жилет полуприлегающего силуэта с двубортной застежкой на петли и пуговицы. Воротник пиджачного типа, частично выполнен из эко-кожи. По переду- нагрудная вытачка, рельефный шов и прорезной карман с листочкой из эко-кожи. Спинка ассиметричная. Жилет на подкладке. Джемпер полуприлегающего силуэта, выполнен из трикотажа. По переду-принт,рукав спущенный. Брюки прямого силуэта с застежкой на тесьму молнию и петлю и пуговицу по поясу. В боковых швах-карманы.

Жилет приталенного силуэта с застежками по переду на акцентные четыре петли-пуговицы. По переду талиевые выточки, карманы прорезные в рамку, вырез V-образный, спинка разрезная по центру с двумя талиевыми выточками. Жилет на подкладке. Изделие выполнено из премиальной ткани костюмной группы, особенности ткани - полоска. Идеально можно сочетать с любыми брюками нашего бренда. Длина по спинке 60 см

Мастер-класс, онлайн урок, обучение шитью, как сшить Прорезные петли с обтачкой своими руками на сайте SEWINGADVISOR.RU, онлайн форум, консультация, ответы и помощь профессионалов.

This is a long post. Maybe you want to skip the text and just see more pics. :) Omigosh, do I love this pattern! I liked it when it came out. I ordered it during the big BMV sale a week or two later. It arrived, along with all the other new pattern goodness, and, much to my surprise, I just knew I had to make this one first. I didn't expect that when I ordered it, but once I had the pattern in hand, I immediately envisioned the project and couldn't wait to get started. Luckily, I had the perfect fabric on hand. Months ago, I purchased 6 yards of a "denim linen" from FabricMart (it's no longer available). I washed and dried it several times. This is truly a denim linen and not just a denim-colored linen. It is woven in a twill weave, just like denim. The warp threads are white and the weft threads are indigo-colored, resulting in that typical yarn-dyed denim effect. The only difference from standard denim is that the fiber is linen, so the resulting fabric has a nice drape and wrinkles like crazy. I had trouble finding a suitable lining fabric. I bought at least three different potential linings from Fabrix, but none worked. It's difficult to match blue, especially this heathered, indigo shade of blue. I dove into my stash, but came up empty handed, at first. Finally, I found a sueded, sandwashed rayon that I bought from FabricMart maybe 6 months ago that worked pretty well. I purchased the fabric just after attending a lecture by Sandra Ericson where she talked about making Vionnet (and similar) bias garments. Someone asked Sandra how much fabric she buys and she answered that when she finds a nice, drapey rayon she will usually buy 5 yards for a dress, so that's what I did. I still have a couple yards left – I am not making bias dresses anyway. ;) Materials: denim linen from FabricMart - I used about 5 of the 6 yards slate blue sueded, sandwashed rayon for lining, also from FabricMart - you need more than is called for if you want to line the sleeves 2 spools Gutterman cotton topstitching thread, color 20 (white) white tricot fusible interfacing from Fabrix 4 1-1/4" shank buttons from Fabrix 4 5/8" clear buttons from Fabrix I often make muslins, but I couldn't bring myself to make one this time, partly because I'm running out of fabric suitable for muslins - I can't keep cutting up my kid's bed sheets. :) Instead, I pinned the pattern tissue together, tried it on, and decided I needed an FBA. Vogue gives the sizing of this pattern as "Very loose fitting" and they are right. According to the pattern, the finished bust measurement is 48" for a size 14, 50" for a size 16, 52" for a size 18, and 54" for a size 20 (the largest size). Usually, I cut out a size 20 and have to add an FBA to add width at the bust, but this time a size 20 was plenty big in the bust. However, I still needed an FBA to add length - without it the hem of the coat would be shorter at the front. So, this time I used Sandra Betzina's princess seam FBA, from the book Fast Fit, which adds to the length only. I added 1" to the front pattern piece. For the middle front pattern piece, I added 1" to the side that is sewn to the front piece, tapered to 1/2" on the side sewn to the side front. On the side front, I added 1/2" to the side sewn to the middle front, tapered to nothing at the side seam (remembering to hinge at the 5/8" seam line to maintain the overall length of the seam). I also lowered the bust "bump" on the middle front several inches to my actual bust line. I applied the same alteration to the front lining pattern pieces. I imagined this wonderful design a bit differently than shown on the pattern. First, I wanted to fold down and sew the scallops to the coat, rather than have them marching at attention along the seams, mimicking the back of a T-Rex. I also wanted to use a single fabric, rather than 6 contrasting fabrics. To ensure that the scallop detailing wasn't lost, I topstitched the seams with white topstitching thread. A couple notes about the scallops: If I had thought this through a bit better, I would have realized that a twill fabric is not going to yield easily to scalloped seams. A twill weave is a diagonal weave, meaning it behaves differently depending on whether the bias angles to the left or the right. Scalloped seams have, by definition, bias in both directions. Creating a smooth scallop is not easy on a twill fabric. I was very painstaking when cutting and sewing the scallops, but they are not perfect. Of course, this isn't entirely my fault because the pattern scallops were apparently drawn by a human – they are not even - they vary quite a bit. I really don't care, but keep this in mind. If you find the scallops too "unusual", it would be an easy matter to fold them down on the pattern before cutting out the fabric. I did this when I created the lining pattern for the sleeves. Scallop construction Folding out the scallops for the sleeve lining. How many scallops? The body of the coat has six seams with six scallops each. The sleeves have another five, so there are 46 scallops total. What is the deal with the buttonholes? I think of the buttonhole treatment as a quasi-bound buttonhole. You first sew a lined square - similar to an empty beanbag. Markings are transferred to the square, which is then sewn to the inside front facing. The buttonhole is cut, and the square is pulled through to the front. The opening is top-stitched, encasing the raw edges. The fabric square, which is now on the front of the coat, is pleated and topstitched to create a decorative bound buttonhole. Pattern alterations and construction notes: The pattern tells you to interface the scallops. This might be a good idea if you plan to let the scallops stand up, as designed, but I omitted the interfacing since I planned to stitch them down and didn't want them to have a different "hand." I did interface the front band, the collar, under collar, and collar stand. However, since the scallops aren't interfaced, stitch and handle carefully so as not to stretch the bias portions of the seam. I narrowed the shoulders approx 3/4". I could have narrowed them even further. There are no shortening or lengthening line on the sleeves. This is because the scallops run along the entire length of the sleeve. I needed to remove length, so I removed about 1/4" from each of the five scallops. (I folded approx 1/8" - 3/16" from the fullest part of each scallop, perpendicular to the grainline.) Shortened the sleeves by removing 1/4"-3/8" from each scallop. The body of the coat is lined, but the sleeves aren't lined. I created my own lining by folding the scallops down, creating a straight line. I realized this fairly late in the game, so I sewed the sleeve lining in and then bound the armscye with a bias linen strip. Creating the sleeve lining by folding out the scallops. Lining. You can see the bias strips finishing the armscye. The decorative buttonholes are a multi-step process. You first create a lined square, transfer the markings to the square, and sew it to the inside of the right facing. Cut the buttonhole and pull the fabric to the outside. The topstitching is done in three steps. First, stitch around the buttonhole. Then stitch around the outer part of the square. Finally secure the tucked portion of the buttonhole. Steps one and two of the topstitching are finished. Completed buttonholes More Pics! Lining Topstitching goodness!! Worn closed. Remember this scarf? My friend Renee made this this silk Nuno scarf for Christmas last year. Hangar shot Without scarf. What do I like about this pattern? The fit and flow of this great silhouette. If the scallops seem weird to you, it is easy to fold them out of the paper pattern, so don't let that deter you from this great design with lots of RTW details!!! You can also use regular or standard bound buttonholes and eliminate the decorative buttonhole detail. I'm just sayin'. :) All the delicious topstitching goodness!!! Some of the great topstitching! The unique quasi-bound buttonholes! The collar with the collar stand. The stand doesn't extend all the way to the front edge of the collar, which is unusual, and it feels like high-end RTW. The under collar is cut on the bias and is slightly smaller than the upper collar, so it's easy to create a collar that falls beautifully. The "two" princess seams in front, one has the scallops, and the other has the pockets, so the fit is so nice and the pocket is placed at a more natural location. The bias band that finishes the hem. Buy this pattern before it goes out of print! :) How could one not love this line drawing? It reminds me of a Picasso, with the squiggly lines, and buttonholes that look like eyes stacked on top of each other! That little horizontal line at the bottom looks to me like the bemused mouth – it's actually the word "FABRIC" shrunk to a tiny size. :D Postscript: After the coat was nearly finished, I moseyed on over to the discussion boards at Pattern Review. In the "New patterns from Vogue" thread, I saw that this coat had received some rather cutting comments, and had been dubbed the "Stegosaurus Coat" or the "Stego Coat." I love the nickname, but those reviewers really didn't see how marvelous this pattern can be. I want to make it again and already know what fabrics I would use for it (yes, next time I would use more than one fabric and I might even leave the scallops standing up).

Комплект женский, трехпредметный, состоящий из жилета, джемпера и брюк. Жилет полуприлегающего силуэта с двубортной застежкой на петли и пуговицы. Воротник пиджачного типа, частично выполнен из эко-кожи. По переду- нагрудная вытачка, рельефный шов и прорезной карман с листочкой из эко-кожи. Спинка ассиметричная. Жилет на подкладке. Джемпер полуприлегающего силуэта, выполнен из трикотажа. По переду-принт,рукав спущенный. Брюки прямого силуэта с застежкой на тесьму молнию и петлю и пуговицу по поясу. В боковых швах-карманы.

Комплект женский 3-х предметный (жилет, джемпер и брюки). Жилет женский, полуприлегающего силуэта, на подкладке, длиной ниже линии бедер, с втачным воротником, с центральной сквозной застежкой на 2 петли и 2 пуговицы до линии перегиба лацкана. Детали переда жилета с отрезными бочками, горизонтально расположенными боковыми прорезными карманами с листочками и с клапанами, и талиевыми вытачками от разрезов карманов, на левой детали вверху расположена листочка с настрочными концами. Деталь спинки жакета с рельефными швами и плечевыми вытачками, со средним швом. Воротник отложной пиджачного типа. Углы воротника и лацканов острые. Края воротника, лацкана, борта, обработаны в чистый край. Жилет с притачной понизу подкладкой. Джемпер женский, свободного силуэта, длиной до линии бедер, с втачными рукавами, с втачной стойкой по горловине. Брюки на бедрах, плотно облегающие вверху и зауженные к низу, с притачным поясом, по спинке пояса вставлена эластичная тесьма. В боковых швах обработаны карманы. На передних и задних половинках брюк заутюжены «канты». На поясе прикреплены 5 шлёвок. Декор может отличаться от представленного на фотографии.