Dzień dobry Kochani! Pogoda ostatnio nas nie rozpiecza, więc jest to idelany czas żeby spędzić jeszcze troszkę czasu pod kołderka z s...
Today, I will be sharing an amazing knit leaf stitch with you that you can use for your sweaters, cardigans or even for your knit wool scarf.
This crochet tutorial shows how to make the bar stitch step-by-step. The tutorial includes detailed photo instructions.
Create a beautiful crochet shawl with free patterns I gathered for you, and feel free to return and choose more projects.
Hello everyone! Well this cloth happened. I had an order for a knit version of these cloths and I just knew a crochet version was a must. There was a time that I was not able to knit and I felt …
Freunde, heute werde ich eine schöne Kaninchen Amigurumi Anleitung für diejenigen teilen, die neu im Häkeln von Amigurumi sind.Für dieses Kaninchen sind fast grundlegende Häkelkenntnisse erforderlich. Das Stricken dieses Hasen wird Ihnen viel Freude bereiten. Weil es sehr einfach und leicht zu formen ist. Darüber hinaus hat Amigurumi eine faltenfreie, sehr lineare Struktur. Auf diese […]
Hi friends! Today I have a fun roundup for you along with a sneak preview of the Summer Kitchen Series Finale! (Watch out for its debut in July!) Below
This modification for the Mama Mabel chicken crochet pattern, includes a free pattern for crochet eggs and instructions to create a pocket at the base of the body so they can be tucked inside for safe keeping!
Schematy, wzory i opisy szydełkowe. Inspiracje. Szydełkowanie dla początkujących. Moje prace.
This lovely knitting flower stitch is so creative and decorative for many projects. Learn how to work this lovely knit pattern by watching this tutorial!
Strikkeopskrift til Magnum sweater. Et af vores mest populære designs er Magnum. En smuk og blød trøje, med et trendy hul- og relief mønster på krop og ærmer. Den er både sjov og rimeligt hurtig at strikke og lige klædelig over pyjamasbukser som over jeans, eller en let kjole. Vi strikker den i vores egen bløde og certificerede, Önling No 1 sammen med silk mohair. Sweateren strikkes rundt, nedefra og op. Først strikkes en rib, derefter mønster midt for og bag, og reliefmønster i siderne. Ærmerne strikkes nedefra med rib og hul- mønster. Ærmer og krop samles, der tages ind i raglan og sluttes af med ribkant i halsen. Opskriften er i PDF format. Straks efter betaling kan du downloade din opskrift direkte fra siden med bekræftelse af køb. Du modtager derudover en mail med link til download af din opskrift, ligesom opskriften vil være tilgængelig på din profil her på siden - så husk at oprette en profil :) Læs mere om digitale strikkeopskrifter her. Designet af Katrine Hannibal for Önling. Størrelser:(XS)S(M)L(XL)2XL(3XL) Overvidde: (98)104(110)116(122)130(138) cmLængde midt bag: (53)54(55)56(57)58(59) cmÆrmelængde under ærmet:(47)46(45)44(43)42(41) cm Materialer(250)250(300)300(300)350(350) g Önling No. 1, 75 % Superfine WooI, 25 % Angora, 180 m pr. 50 g (125)125(150)150(150)150(150) g Önling No 10, 70% Mohair, 30% Silke, 25 g = 210 meter. Vejledende rundpind og strømpepind nr. 6 og 7 4 markører fv 1 = markør i siderne og senere ved raglan 4 markører fv 2 = mønster markører Strikkefasthed: 16 m og 20 pinde i glatstrik på pind nr. 7 = 10 x 10 cm
Celtic Tiles Blanket consists of 20 squares made in overlay crochet technique with simple border. It’s not as well draping as other cabled crochet blankets, but it gives a very nice feeling of coziness and warmness. Perfect for winter times. Read more about this blanket in THIS blog post (with more reveal pictures). What you’ll need Yarn in one color. I used yarn “Stone Washed XL" by Scheepjes (50g/1.76 oz.,130 m/142 yds.) in shade Crystal Quartz (854) 87g for one square; 38 skeins for entire blanket Amour Crochet hook 5 mm (H)* or size needed to get an acceptable gauge. Stitch markers, scissors, tapestry needle to weave in yarn tails. Stone Washed XL yarn is available for purchase in local Scheepjes stores and via online retailers: Wool Warehouse*, Black Sheep Wools*, Deramores* (all in UK with international shipping) Caro's Atelier* (NL and Europe) Knotty House* (CA) * DISCLOSURE: This blog contains affiliate links (marked with *). If you purchase a product via a link on my blog, I may get a small percentage contribution from the store which enables me to keep providing you with free patterns. It costs you nothing extra to visit the store via my link, but ensure I get the credit for the sale. Thank you for your support! Gauge 15 sts x 10 rows = 10cm x 10cm (4in x 4in) with one row of dc, one row of sc pattern Finished size Each square is approx. 30cm/12” large when blocked. The entire blanket is approx. 122cm x 152cm (48in x 60in) Abbreviations and Stitch Guide (US terms) US standard abbreviations are used in this pattern. But if you are used to other terms, please check this Crochet Translation Project which might be helpful in translation to your native language. st(s) stitch(es) ch chain yo yarn over lp(s) loop(s) BL back loop(s) WS wrong side RS right side sk skip st(s) *…* *crochet following directions* as many times as indicated ss (slip stitch) – insert hook in indicated st, yo, draw yarn up and pull 2nd lp through the 1st lp on hook. sc (single crochet) – insert hook in indicated stitch, yo, draw up a lp, yo and pull through both lps on hook. dc (double crochet) – yo, insert hook in indicated st, yo, draw up a lp, *yo, pull through 2 lps* twice. FPtr (front post treble crochet) - yo twice, insert hook from front to back to front around the post of indicated stitch, yo, draw up a lp, *yo, pull through 2 lps* 3 times. FPtr2tog (front post treble 2 together) - * yo twice, insert hook from front to back to front around the post of indicated stitch, yo, draw up a lp, [yo, pull through 2 lps] twice* twice, yo, pull through all 3 lps on hook. FPdtr (front post double treble crochet) – yo 3 times, insert hook from front to back to front around the post of indicated stitch, yo, draw up a lp, *yo, pull through 2 lps* 4 times. FPdtr2tog (front post double treble crochet 2 together) - *yo 3 times, insert hook from front to back around the post of indicated stitch, yo, draw up a lp,[yo, pull through 2 lps] 3 times*, twice, yo, pull through all 3 lps on hook. Important notes 1. Reading the pattern. This pattern contains written instructions and a lot of pictures showing to which sts the overlaid stitches should be added (these sts are marked by arrows). I would strongly recommend using both kinds of instructions. It will be easier to read and understand the written instructions after looking at the pictures. This pattern is written for right-handed people. 2. Turning ch1/ch2. This square is worked in rows, back and forth. Ch1/ch2 in the beginning of each row doesn’t count as a st. So 1st st is always made in 1st st of previous row. 3. Gauge. Overlaid stitches are used to crochet this square, that’s why it is very important to have their gauge under control: they should be neither too loose nor too tight, because this will lead to a deformation of the shape. The right tensioned overlay stitches should be made to the height of the working round. And width of your square should stay the same after each row. 4. Skipping sts. Overlaid stitches “hide” the stitches of background and this is the reason, why sc of the working round should be skipped. Please note that the number of overlaid stitches is always the same as the number of skipped sts. And stitch count after each row is the same. It might be tricky to keep track on skipped sts. Stitch markers can help you. After completing sc before each group of next FPsts, insert stitch marker in next sts. Then make indicated FPsts. And now 1st marked sts behind them will be counted at 1st skipped st. Because you always skip sts behind FPsts, you will have gaps behind them. They are adding drape to the square and prevent it from being stiff. If you would like to get rid of these gaps, you can “close” them working on wrong side. To do so, insert the hook in back loops of skipped stitches and under both loops of corresponding FPsts of previous row (see pics below). 5. Inserting hook. If you make a front post stitch, the hook is always inserted from front to back and then again to front around the post (vertical part) of the indicated st. In other words, the hook will be inserted behind the post. ****************************************************** Instructions – Square (make 20) Add this pattern to your Ravelry Queue *Purchase an ad-free and ready-to-print PDF of this pattern (including all Important Notes, material list, stitch guide, complete instructions and photo tutorials) HERE on Ravelry. There is also a print friendly copy of the pattern available for download - with no pictures* VIDEO. Esther of It's All In A Nutshell has made a very detailed and professional video for this pattern (HERE). She will guide you through every single stitch. Copyright LillaBjornCrochet 2017. All rights reserved. This pattern is for unlimited personal use only. Do not reproduce or sell the pattern. The pattern may not be copied in any way (print or digitally), in part or in full. Items may be sold that are made from this pattern as long as the designer is credited. Shop owners, if you wish to make a kit with yarn using this pattern, please request permission and copyright details from me before offering any kits for sale. Please, read Copyright page for more information. ****************************************************** To complete one square you will need approx. 86-87g of Stone Washed XL. Please, make sure you use not more than this amount, because otherwise yarn in the kit will not be enough to complete the blanket. Row 1. (WS) Ch38. 1dc in 3rd ch from hook, 1dc in each ch to the end. Turn. (36 sts) Row 2. (RS) Ch1 (doesn’t count as st here and throughout), 1sc in each st to the end. Turn (36 sts) Row 3. Ch2 (doesn’t count as st here and throughout), 1dc in each st to the end. Turn. Row 4. Note: all front post stitches are made around sts from 2 rows below – here and throughout the pattern. Ch1, 3sc, 1FPtr around 6th sc from 2 rows below, 1FPtr around each of next 2 sts, skip 3 sts behind FPtr’s just made, 3sc, 1FPtr around same sc from 2 rows below, 1FPtr around next sc, skip 2 sts behind FPtr’s just made, 14sc, 1FPtr around 9th sc (from the end of the row) from 2 rows below, 1FPtr around next sc, skip 2 sts behind FPtr’s just made, 3sc, 1FPtr around same sc, 1FPtr around each of next 2 sc, skip 3 sts behind FPtr just made, 3sc; turn. Row 5. As row 3. Row 6. Ch1, 5sc, 1FPtr around 1st FPtr below, 1FPtr2tog around next 2 FPtr, skip 2 sts, 3sc, 1FPtr around each of 2FPtr below, skip 2sc on row 4, 1FPtr around each of next 2 sc, skip 4 sts on row 5, 2sc, 1FPtr around same sc from 2 rows below, 1FPtr around next sc, skip 4 sc on row 4, 1FPtr around each of next 2 sc, skip 4 sts on row 5, 2sc, 1FPtr around same sc from 2 rows below, 1FPtr around next sc, 1FPtr around each of next 2 FPtr below, skip 4 sts on row 5, 3sc, 1FPtr2tog around next 2FPtr, 1FPtr around next FPtr, skip 2 sts on row 5, 5sc; turn. Row 7. As row 3. Row 8. Note: on this and all next rows by “skipped sts” are meant sts of previous row, hidden behind front post stitches just made. Ch1, 7sc, 1FPdtr around 1st FPtr below, 1FPdtr around next FPtr2tog, *skip next 2 FPtr, 1FPdtr around each of next 2 FPtr, skip 4 sts, 2sc, 1FPdtr around each of 2 skipped FPtr below* 3 times, 1FPdtr around next FPtr2tog, 1FPdtr around next FPtr, skip 4sts, 7sc; turn. Row 9. As row 3. Row 10. Ch1, 6sc, skip 2 FPdtr below, 1FPdtr around each of next 2 FPdtr, skip 2 sts, 2sc, *1FPdtr around each of 2 skipped FPdtr placing them under FPdtr just made (see pics below), skip next 2 FPdtr, 1FPdtr around each of next 2 FPdtr, skip 4 sts, 2sc* 3 times, 1FPdtr around each of 2 skipped FPdtr placing them under FPdtr just made, skip 2 sts, 6sc; turn. Row 11. As row 3. Row 12. Ch1, 4sc, 1FPdtr around each of 2 FPdtr below, skip 2 sts, 3sc, skip next 2 FPdtr, 1FPdtr around each of next 2 FPdtr, skip 2 sts, 2sc, *1FPdtr around each of 2 skipped FPdtr, skip next 2 FPdtr, 1FPdtr around each of next 2 FPdtr, skip 4 sts, 2sc* twice, 1FPdtr around each of 2 skipped FPdtr, skip 2 sts, 3sc, 1FPdtr around each of 2 FPdtr below, skip 2 sts, 4sc; turn. Row 13. As row 3. Row 14. Ch1, 4sc, 1FPtr around each of 2 FPdtr below, skip 2 sts, 4sc, 1FPtr around each of 2 FPdtr below, skip next 2 FPdtr, 1FPdtr around each of next 2 FPdtr, skip 4sts, 2sc, 1FPdtr around each of 2 skipped FPdtr placing them under FPdtr just made, skip next 2 FPdtr, 1FPdtr around each of next 2 FPdtr, skip 4 sts, 2sc, 1FPdtr around each of 2 skipped FPdtr placing them under FPdtr just made, 1FPtr around each of next 2 FPdtr below, skip 4 sts, 4sc, 1FPtr around each of 2 FPdtr below, skip 2 sts, 4sc; turn. Row 15. As row 3. Row 16. Ch1, 4sc, 1FPtr around each of 2 FPtr below, skip 2 sts, 3sc, skip next 2 FPdtr, 1FPdtr around each of next 2 FPdtr, skip 2 sts, 2sc, *1FPdtr around each of 2 skipped FPdtr, skip next 2 FPdtr, 1FPdtr around each of next 2 FPdtr, skip 4 sts, 2sc* twice, 1FPdtr around each of 2 skipped FPdtr, skip 2 sts, 3sc, 1FPtr around each of 2 FPtr below, skip 2 sts, 4sc; turn. Row 17. As row 3. Row 18. Ch1, 6sc, 1FPdtr around each of 2 FPtr below, skip 2 sts, 2sc, 1FPtr around each of 2 FPdtr below, skip next 2 FPdtr, 1FPdtr around each of next 2 FPdtr, skip 4sts, 2sc, 1FPdtr around each of 2 skipped FPdtr below placing them under FPdtr just made, skip next 2 FPdtr, 1FPdtr around each of next 2 FPdtr, skip 4 sts, 2sc, 1FPdtr around each of 2 skipped FPdtr below placing them under FPdtr just made, 1FPtr around each of next 2 FPdtr below, skip 4 sts, 2sc, 1FPdtr around each of 2 FPdtr below, skip 2 sts, 6sc; turn. Row 19. As row 3. Row 20. Ch1, 7sc, 1FPdtr around each of 2 FPdtr below, skip next 2 FPtr, 1FPdtr around each of next 2 FPdtr below, skip 4sts, 2sc, *1FPdtr around each of 2 skipped FPtr, skip next 2 FPdtr, 1FPdtr around each of next 2 FPdtr, skip 4 sts, 2sc* twice, 1FPdtr around each of 2 skipped FPdtr, 1FPdtr around each of next 2 FPtr, skip 4sts, 7sc; turn. Row 21. As row 3. Row 22. Ch1, 5sc, skip 2 FPdtr below, 1FPdtr around each of next 2 FPdtr, skip 2 sts, 3sc, *1FPdtr around each of 2 skipped FPdtr below placing them under FPdtr just made, skip next 2 FPdtr, 1FPdtr around each of next 2 FPdtr, skip 4 sts, 2sc* 3 times, 1sc, 1FPdtr around each of 2 skipped FPdtr below placing them under FPdtr just made, skip 2 sts, 5sc; turn. Row 23. As row 3. Row 24. Note: for a neater result instead of 2 FPdtr around same st, make 1FPdtr around indicated st and then 1tr inserting the hook in a hole at the bottom of FPdtr just made (see pic’s below). Ch1, 3sc, 1FPdtr around 1st FPdtr below, 2FPdtr around next FPdtr below, skip 3sts, 3sc, skip next 2 FPdtr, 1FPdtr around each of next 2 FPdtr, skip 2 sts, 2sc, *1FPdtr around each of 2 skipped FPdtr, skip next 2 FPdtr, 1FPdtr around each of next 2 FPdtr, skip 4sts, 2sc* twice, 1FPdtr around each of 2 skipped FPdtr, skip 2 sts, 3sc, 2FPdtr around next FPdtr, 1FPdtr around next FPdtr, skip 3 sts, 3sc; turn. Row 25. As row 3. Row 26. Ch1, 5sc, 1FPdtr around each of 2 FPdtr below, 1FPdtr2tog around next 2 FPdtr, 1FPdtr around next FPdtr, skip 4 sts, 18sc, 1FPdtr around 5th (from the end of row) FPdtr below, 1FPdtr2tog around next 2 FPdtr, 1FPdtr around each of next 2 FPdtr, skip 4 sts, 5sc; turn. Row 27. As row 3. Edge (RS) Ch1, 3sc in 1st st, 34sc, 3sc in last st, turn a quarter, 34 sc along the side evenly, turn a quarter, 3sc in 1st ch of foundation ch, 1sc in each of next 34ch, 3sc in last ch, turn a quarter, 34 sc along the side evenly. Join with ss in 1st sc after ch1. Fasten off, weave in tail. Block square to measurements. Joining and Border Join squares together using the ‘flat zip method’ into a grid of 5 x 4 squares: Place 2 squares to be joined next to one another, RS facing up. Insert your hook through the back loop of central st in the corner of the square on the right from front to back. Insert the hook through back loop of the central st in the corner of the other square from front to back, yo and draw through all 3 loops on the hook. Continue joining the back loops of each st with a ss in this way. The back loops of the stitches on each square will be the ones that are nearest the centre when you lay the squares side-by-side. After last join don’t fasten off, turn, make ch1 and 1sc in the joining seam. Then continue to crochet around the entire blanket with sc on the WS always making 1sc in each joining seam and 3sc in the central sc in each corner. In the end of this rnd join with ss in the 1st sc and fasten off. On RS make surface ss around the edge of the blanket inserting the hook in the sts of last round of small squares. Please, check THIS tutorial about how to make surface ss: Congratulations! Your Celtic Tiles blanket is now completed!! If you feel following written instructions is too difficult, please, watch Esther's video (It's All In a Nutshell): About Celtic Tiles Blanket in brief: Level: Intermediate (front post stitches) Materials: Aran yarn in one color (Stone Washed XL by Scheepjes - yarn packs (38 skeins) are available at Wool Warehouse HERE*, Deramores HERE* and in your local Scheepjes shops), 5mm(H) crochet hook, stitch markers, scissors, tapestry needle to weave in ends. Size: each square is approx. 30cm/12in large. Entire blanket is 122cm x 152cm (48in x 60in). Language: English Instructions: US crochet terms and abbreviations (including complete stitch guide), written instructions, step-by-step pictures. Ready-to-print ads free pattern in PDF format is available for purchase HERE on Ravelry. Subscribe to a newsletter not to miss a single post. You can also follow me on Facebook, Pinterest and Instagram.
Here's an easy-to-follow free crochet pattern for gorgeous and elegant round crochet placemats. Make a set for your own table or as a wonderful gift.
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Check out Amigurumi The Bear, knitting models and examples now and start making. Free amigurumi patterns for you.
Happy 4th of July, and lets celebrate with stars in red, white, and blue, each for the stars (and your crochet hook) with this star-shaped crochet pillow. We love the fresh colors shown, but the pattern would be equally enchanting in any shades you choose for your version. It’s a great addition to the kids’ […]
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