Made of natural woolen yarn 100% handmade and historical. Made in Poland We are manufacturer of naalbinding knitwear from 2006 Nalbinding, also known as "naalbinding," is a historic textile technique used to create fabric by interlocking loops of yarn or thread using a single, large-eyed needle. Unlike knitting or crocheting, which involve continuous strands of yarn, nalbinding is more akin to creating knots and loops, which make it a distinctive and somewhat more complex method of handcrafting textiles. Nalbinding has been practiced for centuries by various cultures worldwide, and it has been used to create a wide range of items, including mittens, socks, hats, scarves, and other garments. The resulting fabric is known for its warmth and durability, making it well-suited for functional and decorative pieces. Nalbinding offers a unique and versatile way to work with yarn, and it has experienced a resurgence of interest in modern times as people explore traditional and historical textile techniques. It requires skill and practice to master, but the resulting textiles are both functional and aesthetically appealing, often featuring intricate patterns and designs.
Made of natural woolen yarn 100% handmade and historical. Made in Poland We are manufacturer of naalbinding knitwear from 2006 Nalbinding, also known as "naalbinding," is a historic textile technique used to create fabric by interlocking loops of yarn or thread using a single, large-eyed needle. Unlike knitting or crocheting, which involve continuous strands of yarn, nalbinding is more akin to creating knots and loops, which make it a distinctive and somewhat more complex method of handcrafting textiles. Nalbinding has been practiced for centuries by various cultures worldwide, and it has been used to create a wide range of items, including mittens, socks, hats, scarves, and other garments. The resulting fabric is known for its warmth and durability, making it well-suited for functional and decorative pieces. Nalbinding offers a unique and versatile way to work with yarn, and it has experienced a resurgence of interest in modern times as people explore traditional and historical textile techniques. It requires skill and practice to master, but the resulting textiles are both functional and aesthetically appealing, often featuring intricate patterns and designs.
Knit Like a Viking With Nalbinding - How to Do the Oslo Stitch: Nalbinding (also spelled naalbinding, nalebinding, nalbindning and other variants) is an ancient fabric construction technique that predates knitting and crochet by some 2000 years. This video shows you how to do the Oslo stitch, which is the simple…
Handmade Bone Viking Nalbinding Needle. - Very strong and durable for all nalbinding techniques.- Made from cow bone.- Length approx 9.5 - 11cm (3.75 - 4.3 inches). Called Nålbindning in the native Swedish it is also known in English as nalbinding, nalebinding, nalbindning, naalbinding, naalebinding or needle binding. Nalbinding is an ancient technique used to produce hats, socks, mittens and other woolen goods using a single short needle and lengths of woolen yarn. Although later superceded by knitting (a technique that uses 2 needles instead of one), nålbindning produces garments of a superior quality with stitches that do not run if snagged and a weave that is more dense and therefore easier to felt, providing maximum protection from cold or moisture. It is for this reason that the nalbinding technique was still used until very recently in some parts of Scandinavia and is becoming hugely popular again!
Cherry wood needle for nalbinding, tapestry weaving, or other types of yarn-work. Price is for one needle similar to those pictured. These needles are handmade, cut from cherry branches from my property, and hand-polished to a fine, perfectly-smooth surface. They glide easily through past woolen yarns without catching. The needles are approximately 3" in length. Since they are handmade, there will be slight differences in size, shape, and color. These needles ship USPS with tracking. I generally try to ship within three business days.
Naalbinding socks made of natural woolen yarn. 100% handmade and historicalNalbinding, also known as "naalbinding," is a historic textile technique used to create fabric by interlocking loops of yarn or thread using a single, large-eyed needle. Unlike knitting or crocheting, which involve continuous strands of yarn, nalbinding is more akin to creating knots and loops, which make it a distinctive and somewhat more complex method of handcrafting textiles. Nalbinding has been practiced for centuries by various cultures worldwide, and it has been used to create a wide range of items, including mittens, socks, hats, scarves, and other garments. The resulting fabric is known for its warmth and durability, making it well-suited for functional and decorative pieces. Nalbinding offers a unique and versatile way to work with yarn, and it has experienced a resurgence of interest in modern times as people explore traditional and historical textile techniques. It requires skill and practice to master, but the resulting textiles are both functional and aesthetically appealing, often featuring intricate patterns and designs.
This tutorial may help you cast on your first stitches for a nålbinding round start.
Have you ever wondered what Vikings wore to help them survive long, cold winters? Their fabric-making technique, Nalbinding, pre-dates knitting, and creates dense and warm items which don't unravel the way knitted items do.
This costume is NOT A INDIA OR PAKISTAN made !!! This costume is NOT MADE OF PURE QUALITY FABRIC !!! This costume is FULLY HISTORICAL AND HIGH QUALITY !!! and MADE IN POLAND !!! by polish taylor !!! Two fingers Naalbinding gloves100% natural wool fully handmade historical accurate 100% handmade and historicalNalbinding, also known as "naalbinding," is a historic textile technique used to create fabric by interlocking loops of yarn or thread using a single, large-eyed needle. Unlike knitting or crocheting, which involve continuous strands of yarn, nalbinding is more akin to creating knots and loops, which make it a distinctive and somewhat more complex method of handcrafting textiles. Nalbinding has been practiced for centuries by various cultures worldwide, and it has been used to create a wide range of items, including mittens, socks, hats, scarves, and other garments. The resulting fabric is known for its warmth and durability, making it well-suited for functional and decorative pieces. Nalbinding offers a unique and versatile way to work with yarn, and it has experienced a resurgence of interest in modern times as people explore traditional and historical textile techniques. It requires skill and practice to master, but the resulting textiles are both functional and aesthetically appealing, often featuring intricate patterns and designs.
Nålbinding is the craft of making a textile from loops of yarn; it is a craft for mavericks. Learn it, and you’ll be forever free from the tyranny of patterns and rules.
The Easiest, Clearest Ever Guide Book to Nalbinding! Called Nålbindning in the native Swedish, it is also known in English as nalbinding, nalebinding, nalbindning, naalbinding, naalebinding or needle binding. Nalbinding is an ancient technique used to produce hats, socks, mittens and other woolen goods using a single short needle and lengths of woolen yarn. Although later superceded by knitting, a technique that uses 2 needles instead of one, nålbindning produces garments of a superior quality with stitches that do not run if snagged and a weave that is more dense and therefore easier to felt, providing maximum protection from cold or moisture. It is for this reason that the nalbinding technique was still used until very recently in some parts of Scandinavia. - A4 size 23 page instruction book with full colour pictures throughout.- Step by step instructions in both English and Swedish.- Designed for the absolute beginner to learn this ancient technique.- 4th edition with clear instructions and photos that you can easily follow.- Two different techniques, one from a Medieval find from Lund in Sweden and one from a Viking age find from Mammen in Denmark.- Includes patterns and instructions on how to make wool wrist-warmers, mittens and socks.- Buy the book on its own, or with a 10cm (4 inch) bone nalbinding needle.
Nalbinding swirls scarf pattern in 23 page PDF with images of every step. Inspired by images of Von Karman vortices when islands stick up into low clouds at sea. Surprise your friends and family with this lovely, quick to make handmade scarf for Christmas or birthdays. The gratification of completing each simple swirl is quite addictive. Level: Intermediate. Need to know Finnish 2+2 stitch -> 2 on thumb and 2 behind. (Hansen notation for the stitch: UUOO/UUOOO) Requirements: - Worsted or aran weight yarn 100-150 yds (gradient or varying shade yarns work terrific with this pattern) - Finnish stitch 2+2 - Nalbinding needle - Enough concentration to be able to count up to 35 About the Technique: Much of nalbinding is thick and bulky to create warm items like socks, mittens and hats. It’s beautiful in it’s own way. But there are so many limits to be explored and played with in this craft. During her exploration, the author created a new technique she calls ‘open structure work’ with interconnected sections that look airy and lacy, yet show off the unique structure and properties of the wonderful ancient craft of nalbinding. --- Nalbinding is an ancient textile craft that predates knitting. (Think Roman Empire and Viking Age times). It uses loops and knots to form the fabric. The fabric produced is thick and durable and it does not unravel. Nalbinding is great for hats, mittens and socks. I've seen it used to make sweaters, ponchos, and shawls too. All our Patterns - https://etsy.me/2vlBceN
Nalbinding is a Scandinavian fabric-making technique which pre-dates knitting. Learn about nalbinding pattern directions, and how to make York and Oslo stitches.
I am very happy to present as the first post on this new version of Historic Crafts the long awaited how-to on nalbinding. Nalbinding is also known as nalebinding, nailbinding, nålbinding and needlebinding and it is something that readers of Historic Crafts have shown an interest in knowing more about from the beginning. Unfortunately, I am absolutely useless at nalbinding, as I might have mentioned earlier, so I was thrilled when Ane offered me this wonderful guide for posting. Translating it from Danish has given me new hope that I might one day be able to master this craft too with some help from Ane. Ane Løser has recently begun studying at The School of the Association of Friends of Textile Art (HV School) in Stockholm, Sweden and has also begun blogging on Ane's Form (in Danish). All the images in this post are copyright of Ane Løser so please seek her permission if you wish to use them further. Let's get on with the nalbinding shall we. Take care, Eddie P.S. If you want to follow the guide on Flickr instead the images with instructions are in this set! ---- . ---- . ---- . ---- . ---- . ---- . ---- . ---- . ---- Here is a little demonstration of how to do nalbinding. There are several different techniques and I will just show one here. I will demonstrate using black wool so that everything I do stands out more on the pictures, but it is difficult to photograph as everything happens in a flow. I can also recommend checking on youtube for some good tutorial videos. Above is shown a typical nalbinding needle. In this how-to I am using one that I bought in Stockholm. It is too large and coarse and I actually prefer using an ordinary darning needle. If you feel that you can't do nalbinding without a proper nalbinding needle, you can buy one at most Viking related museums or on the Internet. Otherwise they are available at most Medieval/Viking markets. As for yarn, pure wool is absolutely the best to start with. Use plain knitting yarn to begin with and you can always experiment later with other yarn. Also small remnants are great to use for this. Pull, but do not cut a piece of yarn about 1.5 meters long. At one end you do a two half-hitch knot like above. Place it around your left thumb, with the shortest end inside the hand. At the long end sits the needle which you keep in your right hand. Now place the "knot" on the inside of your thumb. Now you have two threads above the nail. Take the needle between the two threads and let the needle tip come out as in the picture. Lift the upper loop off the finger. Take your right hand and move it anticlockwise, so the yarn twists around and you can put the needle tip down between the thread is still attached to the thumb. Now that we have done this, here is the result. Now pull the thread through and while doing so let the thread loop around your thumb under the thread already there. This means that the loop that was below before is now above and the loop that is now below is the one connected to the needle. Now we are back to square one and then we start all over again. Once we've done this a few times will have a row of stitches hanging off the back of the thumb. This is the beginning whether you want to make socks, mittens, or maybe a sweater. Constructing nalbinding items is a lot like crochet, you work around and around and when you want to make wider pieces and not just long, thin row you link the row with itself. Let's try this out! Begin by sticking your needle through the stitch closest to your thumb. Now we need to do as we did in the beginning, pretend the extra stitch on the needle doesn't exist and follow the instructions from the start. Now you will get a corner because we are working along the row of stitches. If you continue to work round and around without increasing or decreasing, you will get a flat pouch. If you for example want to make mittens or socks you will of course be compelled to increase and decrease. Both mittens and socks can be made as either toe/fingers up or cuff-down. I prefer to do toe-up. That is what I will demonstrate here, but if you prefer the other way you just need to make a long row that fits the arm or leg that can be linked as a ring instead of increasing from the tip. To increase and decrease: this is again the same as with crochet. When you increase you stick the thread through the same stitch one or more times and when you want to decrease you just miss a stitch in the previous row. When making mittens and socks it is best if you increase in the corners so that the increase sits on the inside and outside of the foot or along the first or the forth finger. Practice this before you begin making a big sweater. Remember that you should only increase and decrease a little in each round and not all in one go. Another thing I do is to make both socks or mittens at the same time. This way you can work without a pattern and still get two identical items where increase and decrease are the same on both. To extend your yarn: Take the end of the old yarn and split into two or more. Do the same to the new thread you've torn off. We need to felt the two threads together. The fibers sticks much better together when they are long. This is why we tear new yarn instead of cutting. Interlink the threads and make them wet. Now the threads are very loosely connected, but when we roll the wet thread in our hands we felt it together and the threads are now as one thread. On this picture you can see the transition between two colours where I have felted a blue thread to a brown. Here you see a heal where I have decreased. Here you see a toe where I have increased. Here is the heal from underneath. I made a tube which fits the foot until I reach the middle of the instep. Now I make a row that goes out from the rest of my tube, which is done by not connecting with the tube, but instead going back to the very first step of this how-to. When I made it long enough I connected it to itself and finally back onto the tube. Each time I go around, I decrease at the root and the top of the row sticking out. This is the end of my nalbinding guide. Please let me know if something is completely incomprehensible or if you have any problems. Nalbinding is not difficult, but you have to learn it, as with everything else. The story behind the nalbinding goes way back. Fragments of nalbound textiles have been found in Israel dating back 65000 years, but this is a story that must wait for another time. Good luck and let me know how it goes!
Do you have thumbs? If the answer is "yes", you can get started with nalbinding: an ancient Scandinavian knotless knitting technique!
Nalbinding stitches which I most often see people using in their items seem to be either Oslo Stitch or Mammen Stitch, but there are many others, too, and sometimes it can be confusing to try to remember all the names, or the logic of how one stitch changes to another. So, how can you tell which nalbinding stitch is which? Also connection stitches (F1, F2, B1...) are explained further below. York Stitch gets sometimes confused with Oslo Stitch. They both have 1 loop around thumb, and 1 loop behind thumb. In Oslo Stitch you insert the needle into the loop behind your thumb from front to back, while in York Stitch you insert the needle from back to front. Oslo Stitch, on the other hand, gets sometimes confused also with Mammen Stitch. They both have 1 loop around thumb, but in Oslo Stitch you pick up 1 loop behind the thumb, while in Mammen Stitch you pick up 2 loops behind the thumb. If you have a look at the numbers below each photo, you will see the first number indicates the number of thumb loops, and the second one tells how many loops are picked up behind the thumb. So in Oslo Stitch the number is 1+1, and in Mammen Stitch 1+2. The numbers also match with the Us and Os (Hansen's Notation). So, Oslo Stitch is 1+1 or UO/..., and Mammen Stitch is 1+2 or UOO/... Edit: In case you have heard about Korgen Stitch, so basically Korgen Stitch and Mammen Stitch are the same (1+2 or UOO/UUOO) but in Korgen Stitch the connection stitch is F1 and in Mammen Stitch F2. See further below for F1s and F2s. Now, if you look at the next photos after Oslo Stitch and Mammen Stitch, I hope you get the logic how the stitches can be changed/varied. Brodén Stitch - 1 thumb loop, 3 loops behind the thumb (1+3, UOOO/...). Långaryd Stitch - 1 thumb loop, 4 loops behind the thumb (1+4, UOOOO/...). Bålsta Stitch - 1 thumb loop, 5 loops behind the thumb (1+5, UOOOOO/...) The Finnish Stitch variant I have chosen here involves 2 loops around thumb and 2 loops behind the thumb (ie. 2+2, or UUOO/...). If you think it, it is almost like Mammen Stitch except that there are 2 thumb loops. There are also stitch variants which involve 2 thumb loops and 3 to 5 loops behind the thumb (ie. 2+3 or 2+4 or 2+5). Dalby Stitch is a bit different. There is 1 loop around thumb, 1 loop behind thumb is picked up from front to back (as usual), but the second loop behind the thumb is picked up from back to front (needle tip pointing to 9 o'clock *). So that would make 1+1+1 or UOU/... *) The direction matters, because if the needle tip points to the opposite direction, the stitch is one of the Turning Stitches, and the surface looks quite different, too. Turning Stitches are not included in these photos. Edit: These stitches shown here, obviously, are not the only one. The shortenings for connection stitches often seem to be a source of confusion. F = front, B = back, M = middle Edit: These are not the only ways to connect new stitches to the previous row. For example Åsle Stitch connection is not show here, and it is also possible to pick up the connection stitch from the reverse side of the fabric, like in e.g. Vad Stitch. F1 = 1 loop at the upper/top edge, from front to back F2 = 2 loops at the upper/top edge, from front to back - "1 new loop, 1 old loop" B1 = 1 loop at the upper/top edge, from back to front B2 = 2 loops at the upper/top edge, from front to back - "1 new loop, 1 old loop" M - pay attention to the direction of the needle (either ), because that changes the way the stitch surface will look like M1+F1 = 1 loop at the mid row, 1 loop at the upper/top edge F1B1 = 1 loop (new) from front to back, 1 loop (old) from back to front Left bottom corner, the blue sample, shows the F2 connection ("under x") when your stitch has the so called plaited edge (see below). On the left - "normal/usual" way of finishing the stitch On the right - "plaited edge"
Nålbinding, Danish for “needle binding,” is a method for making textiles that predates knitting and crocheting by thousands of years
So you’ve decided to do some nalbinding. But where do you start? Many of the videos that I have found are excellent for demonstrating the actual stitches, but they have complicated descriptio…
Naalbinding socks made of natural woolen yarn. 100% handmade and historicalNalbinding, also known as "naalbinding," is a historic textile technique used to create fabric by interlocking loops of yarn or thread using a single, large-eyed needle. Unlike knitting or crocheting, which involve continuous strands of yarn, nalbinding is more akin to creating knots and loops, which make it a distinctive and somewhat more complex method of handcrafting textiles. Nalbinding has been practiced for centuries by various cultures worldwide, and it has been used to create a wide range of items, including mittens, socks, hats, scarves, and other garments. The resulting fabric is known for its warmth and durability, making it well-suited for functional and decorative pieces. Nalbinding offers a unique and versatile way to work with yarn, and it has experienced a resurgence of interest in modern times as people explore traditional and historical textile techniques. It requires skill and practice to master, but the resulting textiles are both functional and aesthetically appealing, often featuring intricate patterns and designs.
Nalbinding is a Scandinavian fabric-making technique which pre-dates knitting. Learn about nalbinding pattern directions, and how to make York and Oslo stitches.
Made of natural woolen yarn 100% handmade and historical. Made in Poland We are manufacturer of naalbinding knitwear from 2006 Nalbinding, also known as "naalbinding," is a historic textile technique used to create fabric by interlocking loops of yarn or thread using a single, large-eyed needle. Unlike knitting or crocheting, which involve continuous strands of yarn, nalbinding is more akin to creating knots and loops, which make it a distinctive and somewhat more complex method of handcrafting textiles. Nalbinding has been practiced for centuries by various cultures worldwide, and it has been used to create a wide range of items, including mittens, socks, hats, scarves, and other garments. The resulting fabric is known for its warmth and durability, making it well-suited for functional and decorative pieces. Nalbinding offers a unique and versatile way to work with yarn, and it has experienced a resurgence of interest in modern times as people explore traditional and historical textile techniques. It requires skill and practice to master, but the resulting textiles are both functional and aesthetically appealing, often featuring intricate patterns and designs.
Images for Ane's Nalbinding how-to (copyright Ane Løser). Please ask permission from Ane to use these images - you can contact her through her blog: Ane's Form (anesform.blogspot.com/) Here is the heal from underneath. I made a tube which fits the foot until I reach the middle of the instep. Now I make a row that goes out from the rest of my tube, which is done by not connecting with the tube, but instead going back to the very first step of this how-to. When I made it long enough I connected it to itself and finally back onto the tube. Each time I go around, I decrease at the root and the top of the row sticking out. Read the full how-to on Historic Crafts (historic-crafts.blogspot.com/2011/04/nalbinding-how-to_10...)
This tutorial may help you cast on your first stitches for a nålbinding round start.
The Easiest, Clearest Ever Guide Book to Nalbinding! Called Nålbindning in the native Swedish, it is also known in English as nalbinding, nalebinding, nalbindning, naalbinding, naalebinding or needle binding. Nalbinding is an ancient technique used to produce hats, socks, mittens and other woolen goods using a single short needle and lengths of woolen yarn. Although later superceded by knitting, a technique that uses 2 needles instead of one, nålbindning produces garments of a superior quality with stitches that do not run if snagged and a weave that is more dense and therefore easier to felt, providing maximum protection from cold or moisture. It is for this reason that the nalbinding technique was still used until very recently in some parts of Scandinavia. - A4 size 23 page instruction book with full colour pictures throughout.- Step by step instructions in both English and Swedish.- Designed for the absolute beginner to learn this ancient technique.- 4th edition with clear instructions and photos that you can easily follow.- Two different techniques, one from a Medieval find from Lund in Sweden and one from a Viking age find from Mammen in Denmark.- Includes patterns and instructions on how to make wool wrist-warmers, mittens and socks.- Buy the book on its own, or with a 10cm (4 inch) bone nalbinding needle.
This was the year I learned how to nalbind ("nålbinda" in Swedish). Here are some of the projects: 1. Mittens in Nalbinding (Norrtälje technique) These are my first mittens in nalbinding. I am taking classes for Eva Anderson, fantastic teacher with ages of experience and knowledge. She is also the author of Nålbindning - Historiskt och modernt i Stockholms Län. I used a 3-ply yarn, 100 % wool which responded well to the fulling process, and a copper needle. The stitch is one of the most common ones in Sweden and is called Norrtäljetekniken and comes from Roslagen/Uppland in Sweden. Since this is where I live I really appreciated learning it. It was amazing to experience the changes of the material during the fulling process - turning from a rather loose material to a thick and more sturdy product. It is easy to see why mittens like these always have been valued for their comfort and warmth. 2. Socks in Nalbinding (Norrtälje technique) Next step in learning nalbinding was making socks. Interesting experience since the “layout” of the construction differs a lot from knitting. I knew that I was going to full the socks so I made them much larger than when knitting. Fulling took about 25-30 minutes per sock (quite a workout …) As with the mittens, the finished result is a fantastic fabric - they will without doubt be very warm and comfortable. I used a total of 250 grams of yarn for these socks. 3. Hat in Nalbinding (Norrtälje technique) This is my item finishing the classes in Nalbinding. I am now coming to terms with the “intuitive” way of working when nalbinding. I made this hat just by going along, adjusting as it progressed. I had decided to make a hat close to the form of the Toarp hat. I chose to make it larger every time I doubted the size, knowing that I could adjust the size during the fulling process. I have been asked why I have fulled my gloves and socks so that the beautiful pattern that the nalbinding stitches make have become lost. The tradition in many parts of Sweden has been that items that are made to be warm and durable have been fulled, since that greatly enhances these characteristics. Mittens that were more of “show off” and made to be worn at mass and at weddings were not fulled, and often decorated in many ways. At a later stage I will perhaps make such items also, but at the moment I am concentrating on warm and durable. 4. Hat in Nalbinding - Rådmansö Very thick and warm! I had to bind this hat with the yarn doubled, to get a thick enough result. I was surprised at how well the yarn responded to the fulling process.
The last few months (since September) I've done quite a bit of nalbinding and finishing old projects. Finnish Stitch 3+3 pouch from Imperial Tracie Too sport weight yarn. (My Ravelry project page for the pouch has general instructions for making your own.) Finnish Stitch 3+3 mittens from handspun yarn - mixed batts from Moonrover and SD Natural Colored Wool Rådmansö Stitch hat from Valley Yarns Berkshire Bulky yarn Hand Warmers from Finnish Stitch 3+3 Stitch done with Imperial Yarns Tracie Too sport weight. Currently I'm working on a circular vest, inspired by the crochet pattern for the Pinwheel Sweater. Simply doing Oslo stitch to have more drape than the thicker stitches that use more loops. General crochet conversion instructions and tips for this vest are in my Ravelry project page. Has it really been that long since I posted last? Eghads! Well, to make up for that, I've updated the site quite a bit - new look, added a calendar of classes that I'm teaching, and a list of classes I have ready to go (I've had several inquiries lately and I thought this might help). (Update 12/28 - added in links to the project pages for the pouch and vest, since I'd has questions on them. The project pages have general directions for these projects, if you'd like to try to make them too.) What projects are you working on lately?
Joulupäivänä oli kässäpäivä, ja sain vihdoin ja viimein valmiiksi nämä neulakinnastekniikalla tehdyt sormikkaat, jotka aloitin jo 1,5 vuotta sitten. I finally finished these nalbound gloves which I started already 1,5 years ago. Neulakinnastekniikalla tehdyt sormikkaat - neulasormikkaat Nalbound gloves Ylempänä "haravaisia yhdellä ja kolmella kantilla", alempana "puolinaisia omenaisia jalkojen kanssa". Upper pattern "rakes with one and three arms", bottom "halved apple(si)s with legs". Kirjontamallit ovat Theodor Schvindtin kirjasta Suomalaisia koristeita - ompelukoristeita, vuodelta 1895, karjalaista nurjatonta etupistokirjontaa. Vapaalla kädellä ja hieman hapuillen. Pesu ja kevyt vanutus ennen kirjotaa tosin tiivisti pintaa aika kivasti ja helpotti kirjontaa. The embroidery patterns are from Theodor Schvindt's book Suomalaisia koristeita - ompelukoristeita (Finnish embroidery) in 1895, reversible double running stitch (Holbein Stitch). The embroidery looks a bit shaky as I was working free hand, plus the uneven nalbound surface gives bit of extra challenge, though washing and gently fulling the gloves before embroidery did tighten the material quite nicely. Ohje ;) My pattern ;) Neulasormikkaat, suomeksi 2+2, UUOO/UUOOO F2 Nalbound gloves, Finnish Stitch 2+2, UUOO/UUOOO F2 Sormenpäähapsut sormikkaissa ovat vanhojen kokovalkeiden kirkkosormikkaiden malliin, koska pyhänä käsien tuli olla joutilaina. Karjalaista nurjatonta etupistokirjontaa tosin sormikkaissa tai neulakintaissa tietääkseni ole käytetty. The braided tassels at finger tips are like in the old all-white church mittens, because on Sundays the hands were not supposed to be used for working. The Carelian reversible double running stitch, however, has not been used in nalbinding gloves or mittens as far as I know. Lankana joskus aika kauan sitten ostamani Villa Laurilan angorakaneista Pirtin Kehräämöllä kehrättyä, 30 % angorakania, 70 % lammasta. Lanka on pehmoista eikä siksi ehkä kovin kestävää, ja osin siitä syystä näistä ensimmäisistä testisormikkaista ei alunperinkään ollut tarkoitus tulla käyttösormikkaita. Yarn from Finnish Villa Laurila's angora rabbits, spun by Pirtin Kehräämö, 30 % angora rabbit, 70 % wool. This yarn is soft and probably not very durable, so that's one reason I had not planned to make these first test gloves for real everyday use. Langan jatkaminen letittämällä. Plicing the yarn by braiding. Neulankärki osoittaa kohdan, jossa letitetty jatkos näkyy. Tai siis ei juurikaan näy :) Needle tip points to the braided splice. You can hardly see it :) Tilapäiset apuketjut sormiväleissä, kun arvioin, montako silmukkaa väleihin tarvitaan. I crocheted temporary chains to help me to estimate how many stitches I need between fingers. Alimman kuvan ottamisen jälkeen jouduin muuten purkamaan aloitetut sormet siinä vaiheessa, kun aloitin peukaloa ja tajusin, että valmis peukalo tulee kääntämään sormikasta eri asentoon kädessä, siis verrattuna kuvan ottohetken tilanteeseen, jossa peukaloa ei vielä ollut aloitettukaan. Ehdottaisin siis, että peukalon voisi ainakin aloittaa ennen kuin mallailee sormien paikkoja. By the way, after having taken the photo above, I had to undo the fingers I had started, because when I started the thumb, I realized the finished thumb will twist the glove in another position, I mean compared to the situtation without a thumb (as in the photo above). So, I would recommend at least starting the thumb (if not finishing it) before checking the places for fingers. #76
This tutorial may help you cast on your first stitches for a nålbinding round start.
Inspired by the 18th century short jacket, this classic wrap cardigan is cropped, and looks great worn over an Empire line, high-waisted dress, or as part of a layered outfit. With instructions for extra-long sleeves, this is a modern twist on the classic ballet-wrap. The sample is knitted using 2 strands of a lovely soft alpaca mix yarn - the equivalent of a 4ply. The pattern first appeared in my 2012 book A Handknit Romance (see separate listing). This is an updated version. Images also show a red version, knitted using a 4ply yarn and with a lace panel at the back and on the sleeves, a chart for which is included in the updated pattern. PLEASE NOTE - THIS IS A KNITTING PATTERN! After purchase is complete a download link to a PDF with instructions to make the featured item will be made available immediately via Etsy. Your purchase will give access to 2 pattern PDFs in different sizes. The first pattern gives instructions for sizes 81 - 106.5cm (32 - 42 in) bust The second pattern gives instructions for sizes 112 - 132cm (44-52in) bust The sample shown is knitted using Rowan Fine Lace (5 - 9 x 50g balls, depending on size) Tension is 27sts and 37 rows to 10cm/4 in over stocking stitch using 3.25mm (US 3) needles For further information go to Ravelry on http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/wrapover-cardigan-4 Photos: Nick Sargeant
Nalbindning, nålbinding Over the past several weeks, I have been studying how to do nalbinding and the various stitches. I found it all a bit confusing at first
So you’ve decided to do some nalbinding. But where do you start? Many of the videos that I have found are excellent for demonstrating the actual stitches, but they have complicated descriptio…
A few days ago, I saw a nalbound sock on one of the Facebook nalbinding groups, and wasn’t sure how the creator did that effect. She didn’t answer (and I wasn’t surprised – the group isn’t in…
Nalbinding It started like this. Every year, I meant to get on the Nalbinding For Beginners workshop, run by the York Archaeological Society at the VikingFest. Every year, it sold out before I cou…
Last weeks shire meeting had woodwork on the schedule. We made various wood needles with pretty good results. My research in nalbinding has showed several finds of bone needles for nalbinding and I…
