Earlier this month at our March NYC Metro MOD Quilt Guild meeting we introduced quick demos - 20-minute sessions with members teaching members techniques, tips, and tricks. An email requesting volunteers was sent out and our VP, Bernadette, requested someone demo Y-Seams, more specifically me! To demo Y-seams I've used an 8 point star (45° points) and I've put together some info here about working with angles around a centre point: The centre of anything has 360° around it - you can add as many pieces as you want around a point and they'll all join up perfectly as long as the angles of each all add up to 360°, English Paper Piecing works in the same way. Your quilting ruler often has basic quilting angles marked on it - 45°/60°/90° or you can use a protractor to really start playing with your angles. Check out large sized protractors in your local DIY store, they're often cheaper than identical tools sold specifically for quilters and artists. Moving on now to a step-by-step photo version of my Guild demo - created for our guild members to refer back to and shared here so you can use it too. Beginner's Guide To Sewing Y-Seams Rather than marking your fabrics as above it's so useful if you can simply use the markings on your sewing machine foot to tell you when to stop sewing. Sewing machine manufacturers know how much quilters love their 1/4 inches so most add markings or grooves to their patchwork/1/4" feet to make life easier for us. Take a look at your 1/4" foot - does yours have markings? If it doesn't you might want to treat yourself to a new foot for your machine that does, it saves you so much time and improves accuracy so could be a worthwhile investment. Aren't those Y-seams easy after all? I hope my beginner's guide makes you want to give Y-seams a go if you do let me know how you go on and share your work too I'd love to see it - Chris :D Featured on: Clicking on an image will take you to a new page of crafty goodness :) Disclaimer: This post is for informational purposes only, no payment or commission is received on click-throughs and opinions are my own. Click to follow me on Follow Linky Parties This post may be linked to some great Linky Parties, always a great source of inspiration too. If you click through to my 'Fave Linky Parties' page you can see where I like to share my work.
Today's tutorial is from the talented Elizabeth, who blogs at Ocassional Piece - Quilt. Elizabeth is an experienced quilter with a degree in Clothing and Textiles. Elizabeth has put this excellent tutorial together to demystify the legendary "Y-seam" for us. Soon you will be sewing y-seams without even a blink, read on. Hi! I'm Elizabeth and I blog at OccasionalPiece-Quilt, or OPQuilt, for short. I've been sewing and quilting for more years than I should admit to, and during that time have completed over 120 quilts. So I've faced down more than my share of the Dreaded Y-seams. In June of this year, I made this quilt for my sister, titled Christine's Philadelphia. As you can see there are lots of peaks and valleys in this thing--lots of Y-seams going both ways (some people call them Y-seams and V-seams) but really, let's keep it simple. They are called Y-seams because the V-part of the letter Y usually has fabric with no seam, and the tail of the Y has a seam. I've marked the Y for you in red in the picture on the left. The picture on the right is the other type of Y-seam. I'll show you both. Let's start with the first type of Y-seam, where the "tail" of the Y is facing toward you and the "V" of the Y is underneath. Place a pin at the 1/4-inch mark through the seam, and into a spot that would be the peak of the 1/4" seamline, if you could draw it on and imagine it. Most beginners want to pin that seam to death. That makes me want to run screaming in the other direction. The success of your Y-seam depends on the "float" of the fabric. I sometimes will place one pin on either side of the seam, just to anchor it as I get going, then another pin or two along the starting point. Then I take out the (above) pin. Again, I want my fabric to float -- don't want to anchor that second half of the seam too much, as I need it to pivot. Start sewing from the left edge, as the seam faces you, using a 1/4" seam allowance. Fold the seam toward you, and as you approach the seam, slow down and use a bit smaller stitch. You are trying to anchor the stitching a bit. When you get to the seamline, when you are on top of the thread marking that other seam, STOP. Make a tiny stitch on top of the one before to anchor, but DON'T GO OVER THE SEAM LINE. Lift your needle out of the cloth. I pulled it away to show you what I mean, but you don't need to do that. Just give yourself a little room to smooth the (green) seam allowances out of the way, and to find the place to insert your needle again. Re-insert your needle just on the other side. Then line up the next two raw edges, smoothing the fabric away from the needle and your presser foot. Sounds more confusing than it is. Take a few tiny stitches to anchor, then change your stitch length back to normal. Another shot of my needle placed just on the other side of the seam allowances (which I flipped to the back of my presser foot). Depending on the amount of cloth in your Y-seam, and if you just feel better about it, go ahead now, and pin those raw edges together and stitch the rest of the seam. When you are through sewing, clip the thread if it is restricting the ability of the seam allowance to open up and lay flat. If you left a bit of thread there (pulled it away from the needle as in my photo above) there should be no problem. Press, keeping the tail of the Y-seam open. From the front, it looks like this. Now we'll tackle the other kind of seam--where the seam of the Y's tail is underneath, and you see the "V" part of the Y. First locate the valley of the one-quarter-inch seamline and put a pin there. Snip to within a couple of threads of the pin. Leaving the pin there insures that you won't cut too far. If that happens, curse a little. You can sometime rescue the piece with a bit of fusible interfacing. Better to not cut too far. Half of the seam (1/8") is all that's needed. Find the 1/4-inch peak of the seam below, and poke the pin in to anchor. You can leave in that center pin to hold it, and if you are afraid it will slip, it's okay to put one pin on the backside. If you can, try to avoid that pin on the right. Again, the success of a Y-seam lays in the ability of the fabric to move and pivot. Just as in the first type of seam, start stitching from the left side of the seam, towards that center pin. When you get to the pin, STOP with your needle down in the fabric. Remove the pin, then pivot the fabric so that you can match raw edges. As you align the new sides, it may feel a bit bulky under your foot, but smooth any excess fabric out away from you. Here you can see that I've pivoted, repinned the new raw edges together and am starting down the other side of the seam. This is what it looks like from the back. That deep fold is the V part of the Y-seam. The front. Give it light press. Resist the urge to saturate it with your pressing goo and mash it flat with your iron. A shot of steam and firm pressure with your fingers can usually help the most reluctant point to behave. Sometimes your seam gets a little jig-jaggy. As long as it's not too bad, it will be fine. I did the same kind of stitching process on this seam: shorten your stitches as you approach the point, then lengthen them out on the other side. A better point. All of these work fine in the quilt, because you haven't, a) stitched it to death, and b) murdered it with your iron. You can see one type of Y-seam where I joined the green roofs to the yellow houses. And you can see the other type where I joined the purple roofs to the sky. Now you know all my dressmaker/quilter tricks: never be afraid of Y-seams again! Thanks to Leanne, of She Can Quilt, for hosting this series of guest tutorials for the Finish-A-Long Motivational Program. (Just kidding on the name of it, but it does help get those UFOs out of the closet and onto the bed. Or wall.) And thank you Elizabeth! Don't forget to link up your Q3 finishes - the Q3 post-quarter link is open here and it will close at midnight MST, October 7, 2013. And if you still have some UFOs I hope you will join us for Q4 of the FAL, Q4 FAL lists can be posted starting on October 8.
Have you been avoiding sewing Y-seams? This Tumbling Blocks tutorial will have you completely understanding how Y-seams (set-in seams) go together. Once you know how, sewing Y-seams is easy!
This Cat design is a Foundation Paper Pieced (FPP) Pattern. These blocks can be used individually or mixed in any combinations to create unique and interesting pieces. This design can be sewn in any combination of colours or prints that you choose, you could combine colours to match your own kitty or go wild with neon or prints. This is an easy to sew design, with only 6 portions, and contains no Y seams. This pattern comes in 25x25cm size in coloured foundation template pieces. The PDF contains assembly instructions, coloured and numbered blocks as well as blank blocks for your own colour/fabric planning, and the cat block foundation pieces. Other Cat designs by KiwiXCrossing: https://www.etsy.com/listing/1465219043/fpp-cat-1-silhouette-foundation-paper https://www.etsy.com/listing/1466680791/cat-2-silhouette-foundation-paper https://www.etsy.com/listing/1467920907/cat-3-silhouette-foundation-paper https://www.etsy.com/listing/1467279397/cat-4-silhouette-foundation-paper https://www.etsy.com/listing/1454408012/cat-5-silhouette-foundation-paper https://www.etsy.com/listing/1455126458/cat-6-silhouette-foundation-paper https://www.etsy.com/listing/1456704642/cat-7-silhouette-foundation-paper https://www.etsy.com/listing/1470124541/cat-8-silhouette-foundation-paper https://www.etsy.com/listing/1457436260/cat-9-silhouette-foundation-paper https://www.etsy.com/listing/1458009214/cat-10-silhouette-foundation-paper Back to the shop: https://www.etsy.com/shop/KiwiXCrossing This pattern does not contain FPP sewing instructions, it is assumed that users already understand the basics of FPP sewing and quilting. Please contact us if you need any further assistance, we are happy to help where we can. Once purchased, your collection will be delivered to you as a 10 page PDF ready for download instantly. You will NOT receive anything via mail, I will NOT refund your money if you have purchased this listing expecting a physical item to be delivered.
Let’s talk about Y-seams—most will avoid a pattern that has one like a stack of bad quality fabric, but there's so many great patterns that use it!
I have loved the Lone Star quilt block for years and I FINALLY decided to make one. This is such a classic block and so striking. I hadn’t made one in the past because tutorials I had seen called for using Y-seams (my least favorite!). Then I discovered a way to make this block WITHOUT Y-seams -
This tutorial is for making tumbling blocks using strips sewn together – no Y seams. This technique, developed in 1987 by Marci Baker, is available in the book ABC 3-D Tumbling Blocks ……
Let’s talk about Y-seams—most will avoid a pattern that has one like a stack of bad quality fabric, but there's so many great patterns that use it!
Free large hexagon quilt pattern & template. Make a simple hexagon quilt with no Y seams with our tutorial. Uses half hexagon quilt pieces.
Today's tutorial is from the talented Elizabeth, who blogs at Ocassional Piece - Quilt. Elizabeth is an experienced quilter with a degree in Clothing and Textiles. Elizabeth has put this excellent tutorial together to demystify the legendary "Y-seam" for us. Soon you will be sewing y-seams without even a blink, read on. Hi! I'm Elizabeth and I blog at OccasionalPiece-Quilt, or OPQuilt, for short. I've been sewing and quilting for more years than I should admit to, and during that time have completed over 120 quilts. So I've faced down more than my share of the Dreaded Y-seams. In June of this year, I made this quilt for my sister, titled Christine's Philadelphia. As you can see there are lots of peaks and valleys in this thing--lots of Y-seams going both ways (some people call them Y-seams and V-seams) but really, let's keep it simple. They are called Y-seams because the V-part of the letter Y usually has fabric with no seam, and the tail of the Y has a seam. I've marked the Y for you in red in the picture on the left. The picture on the right is the other type of Y-seam. I'll show you both. Let's start with the first type of Y-seam, where the "tail" of the Y is facing toward you and the "V" of the Y is underneath. Place a pin at the 1/4-inch mark through the seam, and into a spot that would be the peak of the 1/4" seamline, if you could draw it on and imagine it. Most beginners want to pin that seam to death. That makes me want to run screaming in the other direction. The success of your Y-seam depends on the "float" of the fabric. I sometimes will place one pin on either side of the seam, just to anchor it as I get going, then another pin or two along the starting point. Then I take out the (above) pin. Again, I want my fabric to float -- don't want to anchor that second half of the seam too much, as I need it to pivot. Start sewing from the left edge, as the seam faces you, using a 1/4" seam allowance. Fold the seam toward you, and as you approach the seam, slow down and use a bit smaller stitch. You are trying to anchor the stitching a bit. When you get to the seamline, when you are on top of the thread marking that other seam, STOP. Make a tiny stitch on top of the one before to anchor, but DON'T GO OVER THE SEAM LINE. Lift your needle out of the cloth. I pulled it away to show you what I mean, but you don't need to do that. Just give yourself a little room to smooth the (green) seam allowances out of the way, and to find the place to insert your needle again. Re-insert your needle just on the other side. Then line up the next two raw edges, smoothing the fabric away from the needle and your presser foot. Sounds more confusing than it is. Take a few tiny stitches to anchor, then change your stitch length back to normal. Another shot of my needle placed just on the other side of the seam allowances (which I flipped to the back of my presser foot). Depending on the amount of cloth in your Y-seam, and if you just feel better about it, go ahead now, and pin those raw edges together and stitch the rest of the seam. When you are through sewing, clip the thread if it is restricting the ability of the seam allowance to open up and lay flat. If you left a bit of thread there (pulled it away from the needle as in my photo above) there should be no problem. Press, keeping the tail of the Y-seam open. From the front, it looks like this. Now we'll tackle the other kind of seam--where the seam of the Y's tail is underneath, and you see the "V" part of the Y. First locate the valley of the one-quarter-inch seamline and put a pin there. Snip to within a couple of threads of the pin. Leaving the pin there insures that you won't cut too far. If that happens, curse a little. You can sometime rescue the piece with a bit of fusible interfacing. Better to not cut too far. Half of the seam (1/8") is all that's needed. Find the 1/4-inch peak of the seam below, and poke the pin in to anchor. You can leave in that center pin to hold it, and if you are afraid it will slip, it's okay to put one pin on the backside. If you can, try to avoid that pin on the right. Again, the success of a Y-seam lays in the ability of the fabric to move and pivot. Just as in the first type of seam, start stitching from the left side of the seam, towards that center pin. When you get to the pin, STOP with your needle down in the fabric. Remove the pin, then pivot the fabric so that you can match raw edges. As you align the new sides, it may feel a bit bulky under your foot, but smooth any excess fabric out away from you. Here you can see that I've pivoted, repinned the new raw edges together and am starting down the other side of the seam. This is what it looks like from the back. That deep fold is the V part of the Y-seam. The front. Give it light press. Resist the urge to saturate it with your pressing goo and mash it flat with your iron. A shot of steam and firm pressure with your fingers can usually help the most reluctant point to behave. Sometimes your seam gets a little jig-jaggy. As long as it's not too bad, it will be fine. I did the same kind of stitching process on this seam: shorten your stitches as you approach the point, then lengthen them out on the other side. A better point. All of these work fine in the quilt, because you haven't, a) stitched it to death, and b) murdered it with your iron. You can see one type of Y-seam where I joined the green roofs to the yellow houses. And you can see the other type where I joined the purple roofs to the sky. Now you know all my dressmaker/quilter tricks: never be afraid of Y-seams again! Thanks to Leanne, of She Can Quilt, for hosting this series of guest tutorials for the Finish-A-Long Motivational Program. (Just kidding on the name of it, but it does help get those UFOs out of the closet and onto the bed. Or wall.) And thank you Elizabeth! Don't forget to link up your Q3 finishes - the Q3 post-quarter link is open here and it will close at midnight MST, October 7, 2013. And if you still have some UFOs I hope you will join us for Q4 of the FAL, Q4 FAL lists can be posted starting on October 8.
A quilting blog about patchwork, modern and traditional quilts.
Afraid of Y Seams? They are not as hard as you might expect! Learn how it's done as we piece the background of the Kaffe Hat Box quilt block.
Monarch Grove Triangle Hexies quilt by Emily of Quilty Love. This modern hexie quilt is sewn up using Fableism Monarch Grove Wovens.
OMG David! Foundation Paper Pieced Quilt Pattern by Legit Kits Design. **Pattern only, fabric not included. Legit Kits puts award-winning, beautiful artistic quilts within reach of any quilter who can sew a straight line. Crystal clear, unparalleled patterns printed on the best foundation paper are free of Y seams and thoroughly tested by quilters ranging from beginner to expert. OMG David! consists of 66 different colors and 2,293 pieces. This quilt top is a detailed project containing lots of smaller pieces. Finished size: 60" X 80" This pattern contains: Users Guide Color Maps Fabric Lists (Kona Cotton recommended) Assembly Guide Full pattern printed on foundation paper (over 300 sheets of paper) BONUS: FREE stickers & magnet Knowledge of foundation paper piecing is required to assemble this project. A visual guide to paper piecing is included in this product, as well as a recommendation for a Youtube video which teaches this technique.
A quilting blog about patchwork, modern and traditional quilts.
The Ivy League quilt pattern is a modern take on classic argyle. This pattern works well with solids, prints, or a mixture of both and is!
Around the Bend Hexie Pop quilt by Emily of Quilty Love. The modern half hexie quilt is sewn up using Essex Linen fabrics.
This tutorial is for making tumbling blocks using strips sewn together – no Y seams. This technique, developed in 1987 by Marci Baker, is available in the book ABC 3-D Tumbling Blocks ……
Style: Casual/Street/Sweet/Y2K/Vintage/Preppy/BasicsFabric Content: Polyester. SpandexFit Type: Slim fitNeckline: Crew NeckSleeve Length: Long SleeveDescription: Y2K trend has endured for fall-winter seasons. These knit tops are suits for go-to vibes or stay around the house. Designed with striped pattern throughout the body. features contrast collar & cuffs. and stitched seam detail.
The Ivy League quilt pattern is a modern take on classic argyle. This pattern works well with solids, prints, or a mixture of both and is!
This Vintage-Inspired Overall has adjustable stretch straps. Classic heavy duty utility wear coverall with a pouch built in the front. The front has a separate chest pocket with snaps, they also have side hand pockets and large back pockets and a tool loop. There are two buttons on each side of the bibs and a front button placket. Ideal for gardeners, farmers who want to be train engineers or carpenters! Straight leg silhouette 30.5" inseam Triple-stitched main seams Adjustable suspenders for a personalized fit Bib pocket with snap button Two front pockets Two reinforced back pockets Left-leg hammer loop Double-layer knees Fabric: 100% cotton Machine cold wash SIZE CHART - The size shown in the size chart is the actual measurement of the overalls. Women's Size SIZE JEANS WAIST HIP INCH CM INCH CM S 30 34.5 88 40 102 M 32 37 94 42.5 108 L 34 39.5 100 45 114 XL 36/38 43 110 49 124 2XL 40/42 47 120 52.5 134 Men's Size SIZE JEANS WAIST HIP INCH CM INCH CM S 28/30 36 91 41 105 M 32/34 40 101 45 115 L 36/38 43.5 111 49 125 XL 40/42 47.5 121 53 135 2XL 44/46 51.5 131 57 145
Longline jorts by BDG, a non-stretch denim pair in a surf-ready style. Features a low-rise waist with five-pocket styling, belt loops, a button and zip fastening and longline hems with raw-cut seams. Only at UO. About Better Cotton - By choosing our cotton products, you’re supporting our investment in Better Cotton’s mission - This product is sourced via a system of mass balance and therefore may not contain Better Cotton - Bettercotton.org/massbalance Content + Care - 100% Cotton - Machine wash Size + Fit - Model 179cm/5'10.5" and wearing size 27W - Inseam: 31.5cm - Width: 40.5cm - Measurements taken from a size 27W
Autumn the Fox Foundation Paper Pieced Quilt Pattern by Legit Kits Design. **Pattern only, fabric not included. Legit Kits puts award-winning, beautiful artistic quilts within reach of any quilter who can sew a straight line. Crystal clear, unparalleled patterns printed on the best foundation paper are free of Y seams and thoroughly tested by quilters ranging from beginner to expert. Autumn the Fox consists of 95 different colors and 732 pieces. This quilt top is a faster project containing lots of large details with a few technical blocks. Finished size: 60" x 80" This pattern contains: Users Guide Color Maps Fabric Lists (Kona Cotton recommended) Assembly Guide Full pattern printed on foundation paper (over 200 sheets of paper) BONUS: FREE stickers & magnet Knowledge of foundation paper piecing is required to assemble this project. A visual guide to paper piecing is included in this product, as well as a recommendation for a Youtube video which teaches this technique.
Believe it or not, creating a quilt out of a ton of little cubes can actually be a breeze. It looks like quite an intricate pattern, and from afar it is, but with the right technique, it's simple! In order to create this quilt, you will need 4 colors/patterns of fabric. Using solids for the cubes
The Ivy League quilt pattern is a modern take on classic argyle. This pattern works well with solids, prints, or a mixture of both and is!
LEARN THE FUNDAMENTALS OF HAND PIECING! The Vintage Star pattern teaches you the fundamentals of hand sewing using a star block. Hand piecing makes seemingly complicated machine techniques like y-seams easy to master and you will get the satisfaction of twirling your seams (see photo). Just because our seams don't show in a finished quilt, doesn't mean it isn't insanely satisfying to know they're tucked inside! ON-DEMAND VIDEO COURSE You can't put everything in a written pattern! Choose the Pattern with Video Course option to get access to 6 easy-to-follow video lessons where Tara sews through each step of the pattern and includes all the tips & tricks you get in an in-person class. Video courses are on-demand lessons hosted on Thinkific and content never expires. Watch the videos as often as you like or whenever you need a refresher. Leave comments in the platform to get help if you get stuck on a step in the pattern. Video courses are only available when purchased with the pattern. ABOUT THIS PATTERN Skill Level: Confident beginners and above Technique: Hand Piecing Collection: Color Collective Season 1 includes original color palette Instant Download: After you purchase you will receive an email with a link to download your files. If you do not see this email, please check your spam folder.
The Ivy League quilt pattern is a modern take on classic argyle. This pattern works well with solids, prints, or a mixture of both and is!
Free large hexagon quilt pattern & template. Make a simple hexagon quilt with no Y seams with our tutorial. Uses half hexagon quilt pieces.
Learn how to sew a y-seam in five easy steps in this tutorial, which includes a LeMoyne Star Block Pattern.
Give Yours a Modern or Traditional Look! Tumbling Blocks quilts have long been popular because of the three-dimensional effects that can be achieved. They’re stunning whether made from traditional prints, modern fabrics or solids. The effect is achieved through value placement. Typically one side of a block is dark, the other is of medium value …
Have you ever looked at a tumbling blocks tutorial and wondered how to sew all the tumbling block units together? Wonder no more! Smart tumbling blocks quilts are not actually constructed of lots of tumbling blocks. Do not sew all the tumbling blocks for your quilt until you have read this tutorial, or you may be disappointed.
Free large hexagon quilt pattern & template. Make a simple hexagon quilt with no Y seams with our tutorial. Uses half hexagon quilt pieces.
This striking Abstract Chicken (Rooster) foundation paper pieced pattern allows for a wide variety of color combinations. Pick your own colors for an extremely unique and one-of-a-kind quilt block! This item is a foundation paper pieced sewing pattern that finishes 20" wide x 30" tall. The pattern provides instructions and figures to aid in assembly of the block. There are no Y Seams in the pattern. The difficulty of this pattern is rated at Intermediate. It took about 7 hours to complete the block, from start to finish. Experience using the foundation paper pieced sewing technique is highly recommended. Instructions for how to paper piece are not included. This item is a PDF download. You can then print and make the block as many times as you want. In an effort to reduce copyright infringement, Etsy limits purchase downloads, so be sure to save the pattern to your computer. I hope if you have family or friends who appreciate the pattern, you direct them to my shop instead of sharing the pattern with them. This listing does not include fabric to make the pattern or a hard paper copy of the pattern. Please follow the Etsy directions for how to get your digital pattern after the purchase is complete.
Longline jorts by BDG, a non-stretch denim pair in a surf-ready style. Features a low-rise waist with five-pocket styling, belt loops, a button and zip fastening and longline hems with raw-cut seams. Only at UO. About Better Cotton - By choosing our cotton products, you’re supporting our investment in Better Cotton’s mission - This product is sourced via a system of mass balance and therefore may not contain Better Cotton - Bettercotton.org/massbalance Content + Care - 100% Cotton - Machine wash Size + Fit - Model is 168cm/5'6" and wearing size 27W - Inseam: 33.5cm - Width: 40.5cm - Measurements taken from a size 27W - Use our size guide to check how this product fits
Legit Cardinal Foundation Paper Pieced Quilt Pattern by Legit Kits Design. **Pattern only, fabric not included. Legit Kits puts award-winning, beautiful artistic quilts within reach of any quilter who can sew a straight line. Crystal clear, unparalleled patterns printed on the best foundation paper are free of Y seams and thoroughly tested by quilters ranging from beginner to expert. Legit Cardinal consists of 52 different colors and 413 pieces. This quilt top is a medium project containing several highly detailed blocks. Finished size: 30" X 40" This pattern contains: Users Guide Color Maps Fabric Lists (Kona Cotton recommended) Assembly Guide Full pattern printed on foundation paper (over 100 sheets of paper) BONUS: FREE stickers & magnet Knowledge of foundation paper piecing is required to assemble this project. A visual guide to paper piecing is included in this product, as well as a recommendation for a Youtube video which teaches this technique.
- Soft cotton fabric Step into comfort and style with our Roche Trousers. Crafted from soft cotton fabric, these joggers offer a loose-fit design that ensures ultimate comfort all day long. Featuring a regular waist with a drawstring and covered elastic, along with side-seam pockets for added convenience, our Roche Trousers prioritize both comfort and functionality. The hidden pull-string hem allows you to effortlessly switch from a straight-leg to a jogger style, providing versatility for any occasion. Embrace the subtle details with ribbon embroidery, adding a touch of sophistication to your casual look. Whether you're lounging at home or out for a stroll, our Roche Trousers offer the perfect blend of comfort and style for any setting.
Track Pants- Red Available in Green, Blue and Brown Product Details: Red pants with white stripes on sides Side seam pockets Stretchy cinched waistband with functioning drawstring Loose fit Fit & Sizing: Straight wide leg True to size Material: 100% Cotton Imported
• 100% cotton face • 65% cotton, 35% polyester • Fabric weight: 8.5 oz/y² (288.2 g/m²) • Tightly knit 3-end fleece • Side-seamed construction • Self-fabric patch on the back • Double-needle stitched rib collar, cuffs, and hem • Blank product sourced from Pakistan Disclaimer: This sweatshirt runs small. For the perfect fit, we recommend ordering one size larger than your usual size. This product is made especially for you as soon as you place an order, which is why it takes us a bit longer to deliver it to you. Making products on demand instead of in bulk helps reduce overproduction, so thank you for making thoughtful purchasing decisions!Size guide BODY LENGTH (inches) CHEST WIDTH (inches) SLEEVE LENGTH (inches) S 27 20 23 ½ M 28 21 24 L 29 23 24 XL 30 25 24 2XL 31 26 ½ 24 3XL 32 28 24 BODY LENGTH (cm) CHEST WIDTH (cm) SLEEVE LENGTH (cm) S 68.6 50.8 59.7 M 71.1 53.3 61 L 73.7 58.4 61 XL 76.2 63.5 61 2XL 78.7 67.3 61 3XL 81.3 71.1 61
Sail Away Foundation Paper Pieced Quilt Pattern by Legit Kits Design. **Pattern only, fabric not included. Legit Kits puts award-winning, beautiful artistic quilts within reach of any quilter who can sew a straight line. Crystal clear, unparalleled patterns printed on the best foundation paper are free of Y seams and thoroughly tested by quilters ranging from beginner to expert. Sail Away consists of 63 different colors and 681 pieces. This quilt top is a faster project containing lots of large details with a few technical blocks. Finished size: 60" X 80" This pattern contains: Users Guide Color Maps Fabric Lists (Kona Cotton recommended) Assembly Guide Full pattern printed on foundation paper BONUS: FREE stickers & magnet Knowledge of foundation paper piecing is required to assemble this project. A visual guide to paper piecing is included in this product, as well as a recommendation for a Youtube video which teaches this technique.
