Hello, how are you today? Welcome to our blog About Crochet. We hope you are very well and looking forward to a new Free Crochet Pattern or Tutorial.
Learn the secret to crochet invisible decrease. Prevents gaps when making amigurumi, hats, dolls or anything else requiring decreases.
VeryPink offers knitting patterns and video tutorials from Staci Perry. Short technique videos and longer pattern tutorials to take your knitting skills to the next level.
I have ALWAYS adored this Lalaloopsy Doll found over at life in a house of testosterone. Find out how to make your own doll via the link. L.O.V.E.
Learn how to the crochet front and back post stitch with this easy beginner friendly video and photo tutorial using double crochets.
Tired of spending hours weaving in ends after crocheting? Discover our time-saving solution to make your projects hassle-free!
Learn to crochet a veil for mass with this Solomon's Knot crochet veil pattern. It's the perfect catholic crochet project to start this year off!
Learn how to crochet an invisible seamless join when working in the round in THREE easy steps! An invisible join or a seamless join is a great finishing touch to your crochet project.
Het kan nog net voor de Pasen een lief paashaasje haken. Leuk patroontje van Craftzine
The male prisoners of the Pre-Release Unit in Jessup, Maryland knit hats and dolls for children in need.
Here's a glossary of sewing terms to answer all your sewing questions. Look up sewing words and phrases in our Sewing Dictionary!
A few weeks ago, I found out about another technique that has changed and greatly facilitated the way I make amigurumi, much like the Magic Circle which I previously blogged about. Before…
Yarn Dolls! My daughter went to an Activity Day camp for church. Not an overnighter...just 2 days of crafts and spirituality a...
This small one piece crochet doll by Supergurumi can be crocheted quickly and is perfect as a gift, key chain or template for amigurumi figures. #amigurumi #crochet
Learn how to create your own simple Amigurumi body! Free Crochet Amigurumi pattern, easy to follow i
Whether you are new to amigurumi or you've made you're fair share, this post is intended to provide helpful tips to learning the joyous techniques of the trade! We will cover common language used in amigurumi patterns along with photos to help you learn the basics. My goal here was to make this a resource that you can come to anytime you're met with something that seems unfamiliar in amigurumi. So, it's kind of lengthy, feel free to PIN this to your favorite board so you can refer back to it anytime! I absolutely love questions! If I don't know the answer I enjoy researching it so I can learn it too! Joining the Grace and Yarn Crochet Group on Facebook is a great way to reach out with your questions (or to share what you've made and your favorite go-to patterns!). Amigurumi is usually worked in the round, meaning you won't join each round unless otherwise noted. You will want to use stitch markers to mark either the first or last round as you go so you don't lose your place. They can be purchased or you can use a scrap piece of yarn, bobby pin or safety pin! When you are stuffing be sure to stuff it firmly (you are working to find the point just before the stitches start to stretch). Over time your stuffing will settle and 'squish' down, stuffing firmly to begin with help it to stay firm! Check out this tutorial for additional stuffing tips! If you are new to amigurumi and have any questions about what materials to use, read this post here to see my favorites! This post may contain affiliate links, please click here for more info. Thank you for supporting Grace and Yarn! Below are some of the common abbreviations and terms you are likely to come across in amigurumi patterns. US Crochet Abbreviations MC - Magic Circle SC - Single Crochet SC INC - Single Crochet Increase (complete 2 single crochets into one stitch) HDC - Half Double Crochet HDC INC - Half Double Crochet Increase (complete 2 half double crochets into one stitch) DC - Double Crochet DC INC - Double Crochet Increase (complete 2 double crochets into one stitch) INV DEC - Invisible Decrease Rep - Repeat Sl St - Slip Stitch Ch - Chain Blo - Back loop only Flo - Front loop only YO - Yarn Over Joining Legs in Amigurumi To create an amigurumi in a standing position a lot of patterns will join the legs together with a chain. This creates a bridge to connect the legs together and allows you to then continue crocheting to form the body. Here's a step by step video tutorial in both left and right handed versions! Right Handed Left Handed Magic Circle A magic circle (also called an adjustable loop) is the most common way to start amigurumi. 1. Leaving about a 4 inch tail wrap the yarn into a circle as in the photos below. 2. Hold the loop by placing your fingers over the part where the working yarn crosses over the tail. 3. Insert your hook into the circle, yarn over, pull through and chain 1 4. You're magic circle is now ready to start as your pattern instructs (ex: if round one says 6 SC you will complete 6 SC around the loop) 5. Pull your tail tight to close Invisible Decrease This is the preferred way to decrease in amigurumi, it keeps the decrease tight and avoids the 'bump' of a regular SC decrease. An invisible decrease happens over two stitches, insert your hook into the front loop of the first stitch and then into the front loop of the second stitch (you will have 3 loops on your hook), yarn over, pull through two loops (you will have 2 loops left on your hook), yarn over again and pull through all loops on the hook. You've just made an invisible decrease! Invisible Color Join When changing colors it can have a jagged look because we are working in rounds. This method helps the colors change smoothly. When you are completing the last stitch before you are instructed to change colors you will complete the first half of the stitch with your old color and finish the stitch with your new color. Meaning, you will insert your hook into your stitch, yarn over with the old color and pull through, now drop your old color and use your new color to yarn over and finish the stitch by pulling through all loops on your hook. You now have your new color on your hook. I like to tie off my old color here if I'm not carrying it to change again, (like in Mia and Marshall the Frog). As you start your next round, complete the first stitch as a slip stitch instead of a sc. When you come back around to start your next round be sure to sc into your slip stitch as a regular stitch. Above I mentioned how you can carry colors when changing often. I used this in my frog patterns to create their striped outfits. Because, I was changing back and forth quite often that would create a LOT of loose ends. Instead, I would drop the yarn, change to the new one and when it was time to change again I would drop and go back to the color I had. I continued this all the way up and then tied off when I was completely done. This saves time, which is quite nice! Here's an example of the inside of Marshall the Frog, you can see where I carried the yarn and only had to tie off at the end! Front and Back Loop Only This is usually used in the feet or bodies of amigurumi. In a foot it helps it to have a flat bottom to work up (like in this cow pattern). I also like to use it to attach to later and make a skirt or ruffle along a dress (see Holly the Honey Bear for an example. The pattern uses back loop only on one row of the body, we later attach to it and make the ruffled part of her dress!) When crocheting, the front loops are closest to you and the back loops are away from you (on the inside of the round) Tension This section is short and sweet. You want a tight tension so that your stitches are close together, if they are loose they will have gaps that your stuffing will show through. I like to have my hook help control my tension, we don't want your hands to hurt from trying to crochet really tightly. I recommend starting with a 3.5mm (or one close in size if you don't have this on hand). If you feel your stitches are too loose go down a size (maybe try a 3mm or 2.75mm). If your stitches are too tight (meaning you are having trouble getting your hook into the stitch) try a 4mm hook. Once you find your favorite hook size to use you will find yourself reaching for it every time! These recommendations are based on using #4 worsted weight yarn. You can also use chunky yarn or cotton yarn, but because they have a different thickness you will want to adjust. Example, I use 4-4.5mm for chunky yarn and 3mm for cotton! Sewing Parts Together I like to use the whip stitch to sew on my limbs and heads. A lot of you have shared that you enjoy it too! Most patterns will have this noted, but it is good to leave a long tail when fastening off (we're talking probably 12 inches long) to use later for sewing that part on. As I mentioned in my materials for amigurumi post, the bent tip needles really work wonders to get into the stitches! Using pins to hold each part in place can help you line them up where you want them, this is completely optional. Example with the picture above we're sewing on the arm, you would insert your hook into a stitch on the body and then into a stitch across the top of the arm, pull through. Complete this across the arm to secure. I sometimes will go back across to add extra strength. Secure with a knot and then push your needle through the body and bring the yarn out the other side, cut the string and it's done! Crochet Eyes and Plastic Safety Eyes Most amigurumi are made with plastic safety eyes (some with plastic safety noses)! These are super easy to install. They come as two parts, the eye and the washer. Insert your eyes into the desired stitches (move them around if needed to get the look you are going for, once the washers are on there's no getting them back off to move them!). If you are embroidering eyelashes be sure to do so before attaching your eyes, it will be much easier to have them lined up! Your washer will have a curve to it, you will want the curve to cup your eye to be installed properly. Push the washer tightly to bring together (you will hear some clicks). Plastic safety eyes are recommended for children over 3, if you would like an alternative I have a tutorial for crochet eyes here! I hope this has been a helpful tutorial! If you're looking for a pattern to get started check out the Cuddly Caterpillar, she's great for beginners! What is your favorite tip for making amigurumi? Have I missed something you would like added? Leave a comment below!
How to Crochet: Amigurumi Basics: Amigurumi projects are cute and fun to make, but if you don't know how to crochet, you need to learn the basics. In this instructable, I will show you How To: read a pattern, select yarn and understand the labels select the right cr…
Check out the KAL page for progress pictures, inspiration ideas, crowd-sourcing questions, and other pattern notes. Please note that this pattern has been tech edited as of V2.0 (July 31, 2019) Hi Folks! Thank you for checking out the Wingspan shawl! Designed with Blue Brick yarn, this piece stands at the intersection of knitting and nature. The shawl is as light and elegant as it is regal and powerful, drawing inspiration from the wings of a bird. This symmetrical pattern can be a bit of a tedious knit, but the rewards are absolutely worth it. Wingspan combines intermediate-level knitting techniques, such as increases, decreases, cables, and short-rows to give it the look and feel of feathers. Whether you are knitting it for yourself, a friend, or a family member, the future recipient is bound to love it! Note: On paper, this pattern may look a little intimidating due to length; however, the techniques used are not that complicated. There are a few sections that will require very close concentration, particularly when transitioning from one row of feathers to the next. Stitch markers and charts have been added to help with these transition sections. Instructions Included: -- Standard written instructions -- (Very) High-level schematic -- Charted instructions (transition sections only: B, D, & F) -- I am also experimenting with a new form of instructions that attempts to teach the reader the key construction aspects of the shawl (e.g., feathers, wing shape, etc.) so that they don’t have to look down at the page frequently. It certainly isn’t for everyone, but I hope some folks will find it useful! Here’s a quick summary of the pattern: Sizes: -- Size A: a small neck scarf / shawlette size -- Size B: a classic scarf / shawl size (the original sample) -- Size C: a large shawl / wrap size -- Unless otherwise noted, differences in the instructions for the various sizes have been denoted as: A (B, C). Dimensions: -- Maximum wingspan: 45 (70, 90) in / 114 (178, 229) cm -- Depth of wings: 13 (17, 18) in / 33 (43, 46) cm Yarn Requirements: -- 400 (800, 1200) yards of fingering-weight yarn -- The sample shown (Size B) used one entire skein of Blue Brick Manitoulin Merino Sparkle Wooly Mammoth in the Ibis colorway (fingering-weight, 800 yards, 200 grams) Needles: -- 3.25 mm (US 3) circular needles (40-inch or larger recommended) -- 4.5 mm (US 7) straight or circular needles for bind-off Gauge: -- The gauge for this pattern 32 sts by 56 rows for a 4” by 4” square in linen stitch before blocking Other Materials: -- Stitch markers (up to 26) -- Cable needle (optional) -- Tapestry needle to weave in ends -- Blocking mats and pins -- Highlighter tape (optional) Acknowledgements I’d like to extend an enormous thank-you to Shireen from Blue Brick yarns for providing the yarn and the opportunity to design something with it. She imbues so much heart into her work, and she put such an immense amount of effort into making this pattern happen, particularly getting such incredible shots of the shawl (modeled by the lovely Juile Crawford). Thank you again! And thank you, Julie! Questions? Comments? Suggestions? Reach out! I’ll do my best to respond back as quickly as I can. If I don’t get back to you right away, please forgive me! I probably have my nose buried in a book for grad school. Errata (all points below have already been corrected in V2.3 of the pattern): -- Rows 20 and 42 were previously missing the linen-stitch repeats -- Corrected “20-1” to “20-2” in the repeat instruction at the end of Section C, page 5 -- Corrected “78” to “80” in the repeat instruction in Section H following Rows 79 and 80 Please note that the following errata were only relevant for the older version of the pattern. All of these points have already been addressed in the latest version of the pattern. Old Version Errata: -- On Page 5, the short-row numbers for 23 and 24 were mixed up, but this has been updated (no impact to instructions) -- On Page 5, Row 28 should end with “4 times, S1F” not “5 times, S1F” -- On Page 5, Row 29 should end with “4 times, K1” not “2 times, K1” -- On Page 6, Row 43 should contain a K2 immediately after the last R7, before the M1R -- On Page 13, in Section I the S1Fs should be S1Bs, and the S1B should be S1F. -- On Page 13, in Section I the note should say to repeat Section I 11 times, not Section G. -- On Page 16, there were two instances where ‘left’ should have been ‘right’ in the CP3T instructions, which have been updated to: slip one stitch purlwise to the right needle, then slip two stitches purlwise to a cable needle and hold in the front; slip the next stitch on the left needle to the right needle, slip one stitch from the cable needle to the right needle, insert your left needle into the backs of the three stitches on the right needle and purl the stitches together, then purl the stitch on the cable needle -- On Page 16, the meaning of R9 has been updated to: rearrange the next 9 stitches
Containing Instructions in Berlin Work, Crochet, Drawn-Thread Work, Embroidery, Knitting, Knotting or Macrame, Lace, Netting, Poonah Painting, & Tatting with...
Don't miss this crochet tip!! Use this amigurumi tip to easily insert your needle through your stuffed amigurumi and out the other side. #crochet
one day last week, ivy decided it was time to learn to knit on needles. she has been finger knitting (like this) for about a year and was ready to be like mumma. mumma who is still working on yindi's...
A step-by-step full photo tutorial of how to work the crochet crocodile stitch. This is a complicated stitch, but makes a beautiful pattern. It adds a
Learn how to crochet a quick butterfly with this free crochet pattern and video tutorial to add a cute animal to your home decor for Spring.
Learn the steps you need to take to start designing your own amigurumi. I also share some top tips I’ve learned on my own journey as an amigurumi crochet designer.
Learn how to knit a yarn over between both knit stitches and purl stitches with these step by step photo and video tutorials!
Amigurumi free patterns and step-by-step crochet tutorials... One of the free amigurumi crochet patterns we will share today is the amigurumi ballerina doll. You can learn how to crochet these ballerina doll using the free amigurumi pattern.
A quick pictorial for crochet left handed
It’s been a little quiet on the blog for the past couple weeks. As some of you may know we added another beagle to our home so I’ve been busy chasing around two mischievous little beagles. Now that things have calmed down a bit and Jake and Sadie have adjusted really well with each other...
Learn how to find that elusive "hidden" stitch after the corners when crocheting afghan squares with this quick photo-tutorial.
I’m always looking for new ways to embellish my knits and the picot cast on was at the top of my list. I finally had the chance this week to learn how it’s done.
With winter upon us, there is lots of time to take up needlework crafts. I’m a huge fan of knitting, crochet and quilting and I love nothing better than to find cute free patterns! So with that in mind, I located 10 awesome free knitting and crochet patterns for you to try out! There is
Your Instagram feed may be filled with it, your Pinterest boards full of it, or you may even have attempted to start an Amigurumi project at some point. Amigurumi is typically thought of as a crochet technique or design, but did you know that this ancient Japanese art actually refers to knitting also? Today we chat a little about the beautiful art of making objects we can stuff and find out a little more about Clare Cooper, the very talented crochet designer behind the Oche Pots label. Furthermore, Clare has designed a very special project for Adelaide Hills Yarn Co using a favourite of mine, Little Cotton. My personal love affair with Amigurumi started about 10 years ago when I first started learning to crochet. Beautiful Amigurumi dolls were pinned to my Pinterest boards in the hope that one day I would master the art and have a collection of beautiful stuffed creations of my very own. Fast forward 10 years, and I have finished many creations for loved ones and after painstakingly sewing on limbs of all shapes and sizes, having vowed this would be my last one, here I am again, this time guided by a master of the art Clare Cooper. A little bit about Clare Clare is a crochet designer who resides in the extremely arty city Melbourne, and the creator behind the label Oche Pots (pronounced ot-chee pots). When Clare was first learning to crochet, she loved making small baskets and planters and selling them at local markets, where she called them her ‘oche pots’. The name stuck, and Clare ventured into making Amigurumi by starting with a simple Bunny design for her daughter. “One of the things I love about amigurumi is that most designs use only a handful of basic crochet stitches” says Clare. “ The ability to transform a ball of yarn into a child's toy or special doll is kind of magical! I'm also a big believer in the meditative nature of crochet in general;
Our Wrap + Turn Short Rows Tutorial guides you through this simple technique so you can shape your knitting with ease and confidence!
The Absolute Beginner Knitting Series is the best video course to learn to knit today! Taught by YouTube’s favorite knitting teacher Kristen of Studio Knit, you will go through a fun, easy to understand, systematic course to learn all the basics to create knitting projects this winter.
This small one piece crochet doll by Supergurumi can be crocheted quickly and is perfect as a gift, key chain or template for amigurumi figures. #amigurumi #crochet
Get ready to crochet your new cuddly BFF - the Curlie! The Curlie pattern is perfect for all crochet levels and has everything you need to make your own!
Beginning knitters often feel stuck making scarves -- the quintessential starter project. While there are an infinite variety of stitch patterns and yarn fibers to vary the looks and feel of a scarf, there are a finite number of scarves any one knitter can wear or give away. Using the same basic skills as a scarf, ...
Learn How to Knit Brains with Free Knitting Pattern + Video Tutorial by Studio Knit
This is Optimus Prime from the Transformers. Specifically I used mostly just screen captures from the original animated film that came out when I was about 6 years old. :) I made him for a commis...
In this post I’m going to show you how to Knit two together (K2tog) and Purl two together (P2tog) These are both “decrease” knitting stitches. These techniques will help you redu…
Learn how to decrease with an sk2p (slip 1, knit 1 , pass slipped stitch over) in this easy video and step by step photo tutorial!
