Some of my favorite marking tools for quilting: a white ceramic pencil (shown in photo) or white chalk, the Roxanne silver chalk pencil, and the Finally! Fabric marking pencil from...
(Werbung- durch Markennennung/Verlinkung! Das hier gezeigte Material/ Produkte wurden von mir käuflich erworben und wurden mir nicht bereit gestellt. Sollte mir Materialien oder Produkte zur Verfügung gestellt werden, ist der Post dementsprechend zusätzlich gekennzeichnet) Ihr Lieben, nachdem ich euch einige Quiltmuster vorgestellt habe, sowie ein paar Quiltige Tools, geht's heute endlich an die Maschine. Bevor ich mit dem Quilten beginne, ganz egal ob mit Walkingfoot oder Freemotion, stelle ich ein paar Dinge um. 1. Ich tausche meine 70/10 Nadel oder 80/12 Nadel (erstere verwende ich in Verbindung mit "the Bottom line"- 60 wt superdünnem Polyestergarn von Superior Thread, zweitere für 50wt- Garn von Aurifil, diese Stärken verwenden ich zum Zusammennähen) gegen eine 90/14 Nadel aus. Die 90/14 Nadel ist fester, kann besser dickeres Garn transportieren und durch die mehreren Lagen kommt sie ebenfalls besser. Ich verwende bevorzugt die Nadeln von Superior, da diese zusätzlich an der Spitze titanbeschichtet sind. Es tun aber genauso gut Nadeln von Prym, Schmetz etc. eben womit ihr am besten klar kommt. 2. Ich tausche das Garn aus. Während ich in der Regel mit 60wt/50wt- (Baumwoll)garn zusammennähe, verwende ich zum Quilten 40wt- (Baumwoll)garn. Bei Aurifil ist es einfach die verschiedenen Stärken des Garns zu unterscheiden. Die jeweiligen Spulen sind farblich unterschiedlich. orange= 50wt, grün= 40wt, um nur die beiden hier gezeigten zu erwähnen. Bei Superior Thread und anderen Herstellern steht die Garndicke auf der Unterseite der Spulen. 3. Ich bringe den Kniehebel (C) an. Der Kniehebel ersetzt das Heben und Senken des Nähfußes mit der Hand. Wie der Name schon sagt, kann mit leichtem Druck des Knie gegen den Kniehebel nach rechts der Fuß gehoben werden. Nimmt man das Knie wieder zurück senkt sich der Fuß ab und es kann weiter gearbeitet werden. So bleiben die Hände frei um den Stoff bzw. das zu quiltende Projekt zurecht zu rücken und zu führen. Und folgende Änderung kommt hinzu, wenn ich mit dem Walkingfoot (Obertransportfuß) arbeiten möchte, der heute das Thema ist: 3. Den Obertransportfuß (A) anbringen ( Bernina #50/ Brother No. XC2165002/ bei Pfaff ist mit dem IDT dies schon integriert) 4. Ich stelle an meiner Maschine die Stichlänge von 2,5 auf 3,5. Ich mag einfach, wenn die Stichlänge ein wenig größer ist. Probiert das aber am besten einfach aus und entscheidet, welches Stichbild euch besser gefällt. 5. Je nach Dicke des verwendeten Vlieses ändere ich die Oberfadenspannung von 2 auf 3. Bevor ich auf meinem eigentlichen Projekt mit dem Quilten beginne, probiere ich die eingestellten Änderungen erst auf einem Probestück aus. Dieses sollte, wenn möglich, die gleichen Eigenschaften aufweisen (d.h. gleiche Baumwollqualität und Vlies), wie euer späteres Quiltprojekt. Dort kann ich überprüfen, ob das Stichbild auf Vorder- UND Rückseite sauber aussieht und die Farbe des Garns schlußendlich auf im vernähten Zustand meiner Vorstellung entspricht. Sonst hier und an dieser Stelle ändern und einen weiteren Probeversuch starten. Um beim Quilten eine optimale und saubere Arbeit zu erhalten, ist es notwendig den Unterfaden vor dem Nähen durch alle Stofflagen nach oben zu holen.So geht's: Zuerst Oberfaden und Unterfaden wie gewohnt einlegen und den Unterfaden nach oben holen. Jetzt lege ich mein Quiltprojekt unter den Nähfuß. Nähfüßchen herunterlassen. Oberfaden festhalten, Nadel versenken. Nadel wieder heraufholen und Nähfüßchen heben. Vorsichtig am Oberfaden ziehen. Jetzt wird die Schlaufe mit dem Unterfaden sichtbar. Den Faden herausziehen. Ober- und Unterfaden nach hinten unter den Nähfuß legen. Speziell beim Arbeiten mit dem Walkingfoot und vielen geraden Linien die gequiltete werden wollen, greife ich aufs Einzeichnen der Linien mit einem meiner Hilfstools aus dem letzten Post zurück. Außerdem ist es hilfreich ein Abstandlineal (B) zu verwenden (Brother No. XC2215052). Damit kann genau exakt zu vorherigen Kante in gewünschtem Abstand eine neue Linie gequiltet werden. Jetzt ist doch eine ganze Menge an notwendigen Schritten zusammengekommen. Ich hoffe ihr seid nicht entmutigt und habt Lust bekommen ein wenig herum zu probieren. Habt ihr noch Fragen? Dann lasst es mich wissen. Nächste Woche schauen wir uns dann das Freihandquilten/ Freemotion genauer an. Alles Liebe euer Julchen zu: Teil 1- Muster erstellen Teil 2- Muster übertragen Teil 4- free motion quilting
Walking Foot #50 and the Dual Feed function of some BERNINA models have similar functions, but the way they accomplish their goals is different.
Get an overview of the Top 10 Presser Feet rated and loved by BERNINA Ambassadors.
Foundation paper piecing is a fun and rewarding technique! Take a look at this fun and SIMPLE mini quilt I made for an Instagram swap called the Spring Fling Mini Quilt Swap! I have tips and techniques to share with you as well! Check it out!
Have you ever wondered how quilters and sewists get perfect seams? It's no secret, they use a Walking Foot. Improve your sewing with a Walking Foot
Learn all about making bias tape and use this technique to make your own Airshow Mini Quilt! This is a fun and easy quilting project! Let me show you how!
Recently I've had several people ask me how I bind my quilts. So I thought that this would be a perfect time to show you how I do it:) Yesterday I made a quilt for Dolly and I took pics of my machine quilting and binding process. It's the same way that I bind every quilt or project...no matter the size. I'm no stranger to hand quilting... I grew up around the quilting frames. But because of my design schedule... I usually send my quilts out to be machine quilted. That seems to be the norm now a days and I do love me a beautiful machine quilted quilt! When I have smaller projects such as my new Dolly quilt... I simply quilt them on my Bernina. I cut my backing fabric a few inches larger than my quilt top... around all 4 sides. I cut my batting the same size as my backing fabric. I ALWAYS use a walking foot when I am machine quilting. A walking foot allows the top, middle and bottom layer of the quilt to feed through the machine at the same speed... so that means no shifting... gathering or puckers when quilting. Nice!!! After I have finished my quilting... I quilt 1/8" from the edge to hold it down nice and flat for binding... then I trim the excess batting and backing fabric away. Sometimes I like to add trim in my bindings. For the Dolly quilt...I sewed 1/2" pink ric-rac on the edge. I fold the rid-rac like this on each corner and if there is any ric-rac sticking out past the edges of the quilt... I simply trim it off. Don't worry about those trimmed off edges fraying... they will be within the binding:) When I take my 1/4" seam allowance with the binding..it will look like this. I cut two 2 1/2" x Width of Fabric strips for the binding. For this quilt I will need about 80" of binding. My formula for determining how many inches I need for a quilt goes like this. 1. Measure the length of all 4 sides of your quilt top. 2. Add them together. 3. Add 10"... 4. That is how many inches you will need! *NOTE - if you are binding anything that has a curve at all to it... you will need to cut your strips on the bias!!! I cut the selvedge off of each strip.... And join them together on the diagonal... like this. I trim off the excess... And press the seams open for less bulk around the edge of the quilt. Then I press the whole strip in half with WRONG SIDES together. I unfold one end and fold it down like this... And then fold it back to wrong sides together. I place the raw unfolded edges even with the edges of the quilt.... the fold goes towards the inside of the quilt top. I start by sewing the end I have folded like this.... and I leave a tail by stitching about 2" down from my fold. I use a 1/4" seam allowance and I always use my walking foot when sewing on binding to keep the layers even. I keep sewing until I am 1/4" from the first corner. I lift the foot up ...leaving the needle down and pivot the quilt on an angle like this. Then I sew at an angle off the edge of the corner and clip my threads. I DO NOT CUT MY BINDING STRIP AT ANYTIME. Then I lift the binding straight up... And fold it back down like this. The raw edges are even with the side of the quilt again and I'm ready to sew the binding on the next side of the quilt. When starting on a new side... I simply start at the top... sewing through the folded corner and backstitch at the beginning to secure. I continue sewing all 4 sides of the quilt and do each corner exactly the same as the first one. When I get back to the side where I started... I trim the end on the diagonal ... Making sure that I leave it long enough so that I can unfold the folded tail at the beginning and tuck it inside... like this. Then I simply continue sewing until I reach my first stitches... Then I sew on top of them about 1/2" and backstitch. By tucking the raw edge inside the folded end that I started with... I have a completely finished seam! Then I fold the binding to the back of the quilt and whip stitch it into place. I always start my hand stitching where I started my machine stitching. I do a blind whip stitch... and I fold the binding just past the 1/4" seam line on the back. When I get to the corners I fold them over to the back and sew just to the machine stitching. Then I fold the other side in just past the stitching and stitch them together with 2-3 stitches...like this. I continue in the same way all the way around... Until I get to my first fold in the binding. I also do a blind whip stitch to hold it down and the I knot off. I hide my tail between the layers and trim...just like when hand quilting. And my Dolly quilt is completely bound. And ready to give to Dolly:) Have a quilty kind of day my friends!!! xx Lori
Walking foot in sewing machines is a fantastic tool for your sewing machine that can make a significant change in your work. I did a little research on whether all sewing machines use a walking foot
Have you ever wondered how quilters and sewists get perfect seams? It's no secret, they use a Walking Foot. Improve your sewing with a Walking Foot
Description The MadamSew Open Toe Walking Foot is a sewing machine attachment loved by both quilters and sewing enthusiasts. This foot has its own set of feed dogs that work together with the sewing machine’s fabric feeding system (“the feed dogs”). These upper feed dogs hold and move fabric from the top. This guarantees even fabric feeding and increased control when sewing or quilting. Uses Sewing several layers of fabric and thicker materials such as leather and vinyl Stitch-in-the-ditch stitching and quilting in general Matching plaids and stripes across seams Keep fabrics with nap or pile from shifting Managing tricky fabrics such as plaids, knits and slick minky cloth A lot of sewers and quilters started using the walking foot for all sewing and quilting instead of their standard presser foot! No more "fabric jams"! With its open toe, this walking foot gives you a clear view of the area where the needle enters the fabric. Slide the included guide bar into the little hole at the back and use it to follow a mark, a seam or a previously stitched line on a quilt top. The Walking Foot is also included in our top-of-the-line Big Five Presser Foot Set.
Last Christmas, the group made Holiday Patchwork Forest Blocks. Even though I didn't win the Block Lotto, I was still excited to make my own Modern Christmas Tree Quilt! Let me show you my quilt and explain how the Block Lotto works. Check it out!
Have you ever been to the quilt shop and wondered which batting to buy? Or did you wonder which of all the notions you really needed for hand quilting? I have definitely been there. The choice can be so overwhelming and dang, it's not cheap, so buying one of each wasn't really an option for me... Let me share my tips and tricks with you! All you ever need to know about machine and hand quilting...
Once I learned how easy sewing curves could be, I made a wonderful quilt called Color Love. Let me show you how its done!
The Goosed Up foundation paper pieced pattern by Jeli Quilts is amazing! I was definitely goosed up about rainbows! I just had to make it!
Once I learned how easy sewing curves could be, I made a wonderful quilt called Color Love. Let me show you how its done!
Sarah's Choice Quilt Block is a wonderful star quilt block. Grab your FREE pattern and let's get started with Sarah's Choice Quilt Block Tutorial!
Have you ever wondered how quilters and sewists get perfect seams? It's no secret, they use a Walking Foot. Improve your sewing with a Walking Foot
I hate to pick favs but this one is my Favorite of the Trio. Thread - Iris Mint Batting - Hobbs 80/20 Tools - A ton of templates w...
Learn more about quilting with your walking foot during my "31 Days of Walking Foot Quilting" series.
Machine quilting doesn’t have to be difficult. The key is spiral quilting using a walking foot.
The Hugs and Kisses Quilt block is a fun and versatile block! These have also been called "X & O". Get the materials list and start quilting!
During my lectures and workshops, I've had several people ask me how I accomplished curved crosshatching. You can't imagine how very simple it really is. Get ya an arched template and curve away. Right? Right! So, to show you how easy peasy it is, I'm posting pictures of Linda's gorgeous Borders quilt where I did a curved crosshatch in the cream border, and showing you step-by-step how I did this. Linda LaBrot's beautiful Borders Quilt. Pattern is from Winnie Fleming's Borders Class I first wanted to create arches throughout the cream border. Using my favorite purple disappearing ink marker, I used an arch template to mark the double lines to create even arches through the border. I sewed these lines creating the arches. You could easily make this step straight lines as well. I like using double lines because it defines the arches. Now it was time to mark the curved crosshatched lines. Using that fabulous disappearing marker again and the same arch template, I marked the lines following the curve across the arch. Then turned the arch template over and marked the other way. Since the arched template I was using does not have any marked lines, I used a piece of painters tape on the template to mark the width of the crosshatches. Time to sew...Using the same arch template, I quilted the lines. I retraced the original arches and the stitch in the ditch at the bottom so I would not have so many starts and stops within such a small space. And so I put the curve into crosshatching. It really is Easy Peasy! And for your enjoyment, the rest of Linda's stunning Border Quilt. I had a hard time letting this one go back to her. I wanted to keep it.
The Baby Ooo Quilt is a modern and fun project! My inspiration for the Baby Ooo Quilt was from the full sized version of the Ooo Quilt I had finished a few months ago. Let me show you all about this quilt so you can make one too!
What are the Differences in Sewing Thread? What do those mysterious numbers on the end of a thread spool mean? This questions, and more, will be answered.
