Annie Edson Taylor, the first PERSON to survive a trip over the Niagara Falls #CelebrateWomen
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If you find a lovely birthday present for a loved one. You will love this fox cute amigurumi crochet.
• werbung • markennennung • Auf der Suche nach neuen Häkelideen bin ich im Netz über die ein oder andere tolle Anleitung gestolpert. Angefangen habe ich mit einem süßen, kleinen Cupcake. Die Anleit…
Descarga este vector de Pancartas Pergaminos gratis desde la gran biblioteca de imágenes, vídeos y música sin regalías de Pixabay.
Hello dear Amigurumi FollowersToday we share one free amigurumi crochet pattern again for you. As you know we
Découvrez notre recette facile et rapide de Le vrai New-York cheesecake sur Cuisine Actuelle ! Retrouvez les étapes de préparation, des astuces et conseils pour un plat réussi.
J’ai vu ces tutos pour apprendre à faire les yeux des amigurumi…Du coup j’ai pensé à vous, bien sûr ! Servez vous !
J’avais déjà fait un article sur ce thème, mais j’ai trouvé d’autres images, donc je partage !
Pattern Center
Free Jigglypuff Amigurumi Pattern
Раз уж секрет вышивки носика зайки Златы пошел гулять по просторам интернета, я решила, что правильней будет выложить его в своей группе, только с описанием к фото
With the small stature of this pooh bear character amigurumi that is really easy to do. it will fit right in your pocket!
Je me lance dans les amigurumi, ces petits animaux ravissants japonais réalisés au crochet. J’ai trouvé cette photo de petites baleines déclinées dans de multiples couleurs sur Pinterest, mai…
Princesas Amigurumi! Cinderela, Bela, Rapunzel, Branca de Neve, Ariel, Aurora, Tiana, Pocahontas, Jasmine, Mulan, Mérida, Ana e Elsa! Confeccionadas com fio Bella da Pingouin. Medem entre 20 e 22 cm. . . . . . . . .
I guess I couldn't make sonic without Tails to travel with him. I have to say that even though the pattern seems complex when you're reading the instructions, it's really not that difficult once you get going. I've been extremely busy recently, and it's likely I won't be working on any dolls for a couple of weeks. Spring has sprung (well at least here in Texas) and I have my vegetable garden to plant, and spring cleaning to attend to...and quite frankly I just need to get up off my carcass and do some stuff that I've neglected over the winter. LOL I'm also working on some other projects which I've been putting off ... some of which you'll see on here, others are baby shower gifts and one wedding gift. I'll post though when I have more stuff to share! As always, if you are confused with the pattern, or find something wrong with it, please let me know, I'll help ya out or fix the problem asap :) Happy Hookin' y'all! Miles *Tails* Prower MATERIALS: WW yarn in Gold, white and red G Hook Fiberfill Yarn Needle Sewing needle and sewing thread to match yarn and felt Bits of felt in white, blue and black NOTES: Gauge isn't critical to this project, as long as your choice of hook and yarn result in a tight, even stitch throughout the doll. The tail has some different instructions for color changes. It's helpful to read through the instructions for the tail and the pattern progression completely before beginning to familiarize yourself with the process. Numbers in ( ) at the end of each round or row indicates the total number of stitches that should be in each round or row. BODY: Rnd 1: 7 sc in magic circle (7) Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (14) Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (21) Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (28) Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (35) Rnd 6-12: sc in each sc around (35) Rnd 13: sc in next 5 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (30) Rnd 14-16: sc in each sc around (30) Rnd 17: sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (25) (Begin stuffing at this point if you haven't already, stuff moderately firm and continue stuffing as you progress) Rnd 18: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (20) Rnd 19: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (15) Rnd 20: sc in next sc, dec over next 2 sc around (10) Rnd 21: working in Front Loops Only, sc in each sc around (10) F/O. Add any stuffing needed finish the body shape as desired. Weave ends. BELLY FRONT PANEL: (using white) NOTE: Front panel is bit more involved than most, due to the shape. The final round seems daunting when reading the instructions, but it's really much easier than it looks. Take your time and you'll soon see how the pattern works. Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6) Rnd 2: sc in next sc, 3 sc in each of next 2 sc, sc 1, 3 sc in each of next 2 sc, join to first sc with slip stitch, do not turn (14) Rnd 3: sc in next 2 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in last sc, join to first sc of round with sl st, do not turn. (22) Rnd 4: sc in next 3 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 4 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 5 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 4 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in last 2 sc. join to first sc of round with sl st, do not turn. (30) Rnd 5: sc in next 4 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 6 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 7 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 6 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in last 3 sc. join to first sc of round with sl st, do not turn. (38) Rnd 6: sc in first sc, ch 3, sl st in second ch from hook, sc in next ch, sc in next sc. Ch 4, sl st in second ch from hook, sc in next ch, hdc in next ch, skip one sc, sc in next sc. Ch 5, sl st in second ch from hook, sc in next ch, hdc in next ch, dc in next ch, skip one sc, 2 sc in next sc (corner), sc in next 8 sc, 2 sc in next sc (corner). Ch 5, sl st in second ch from hook, sc in next ch, hdc in next ch, dc in next ch, skip one sc, sc in next sc. Ch 4, sl st in second ch from hook, sc in next ch, hdc in next ch, skip one sc, sc in next sc. Ch 3, sl st in second ch from hook, sc in next ch, sc in next sc. Sc in each of next 4 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in each of next 8 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in last 4 sc. You should now have the front panel with the three 'points' on each side at the top (as shown in pictures) F/O and weave in loose ends. HEAD: Rnd 1: 7 sc in magic circle (7) Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (14) Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (21) Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (28) Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (35) Rnd 6: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (42) Rnd 7: sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (49) Rnd 8-14: sc in each sc around (49) Rnd 15: Sc in next 5 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (42) Rnd 16-17: sc in each sc around (42) Rnd 18: sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (35) Rnd 19: sc in each sc around (35) Begin stuffing here if you haven't already. Stuff moderately firm while shaping and continue stuffing as you progress. Rnd 20: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (28) Rnd 21: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (21) Rnd 22: sc in next sc, dec over next 2 sc around (14) Rnd 23: dec over next 2 sc around (7) F/O. Add any stuffing needed to finish the shaping, weave the tail through the final round and tug gently to close the opening. Secure and weave in end. MUZZLE: Again this section might seem very daunting when just reading the instructions, the final round is similar to the final round of the front panel done earlier, just take it one step at a time and you'll soon see how it works. This piece doesn't work well with continuous rounds, so you'll need to join each round with a slip stitch as indicated. (using white) Rnd 1: 8 sc in magic circle, join last sc to first sc with slip stitch, ch 1 (8) Rnd 2: sc in same stitch as joining slip stitch, 2 dc in each of the next 2 sc, sc in each of the next 2 sc, 2 dc in each of the next 2 sc, sc in last sc, join with slip stitch to first sc, ch 1. (12) Rnd 3: sc in same stitch as joining slip stitch, sc in next st, 2 dc in each of the next 2 sts, sc in next 4 sts, 2 dc in each of the next 2 sts, sc in last 2 sts. Join with slip stitch to first sc, ch 1 (16) Rnd 4: hdc in same stitch as joining slip stitch, sc in next 2 sts, 3 dc in each of next 2 sts, sc in next 6 sts, 3 dc in each of next 2 sts, sc in next 2 sts, hdc in last st. Join with slip stitch to first sc, ch1. (24) Rnd 5: hdc in same stitch as joining slip stitch, slip stitch in next 3 sts, sc next st, *Ch 5, slip stitch in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next ch, hdc in next 2 chs, sc in next st of round* repeat from * to * 3 more times (total of four 'points'), slip stitch next 7 sts, sc next st, *Ch 5, slip stitch in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next ch, hdc in next 2 chs, sc in next st of round* repeat from * to * 3 more times (total of four 'points'), slip stitch next 3 sts, hdc last stitch. Join with slip stitch to first hdc of round. F/O. Weave in ends. Muzzle is stuffed lightly (to shape) and attached to the head at the lower front side as shown. I recommend that you pin it first, before sewing it on. A little stretching and fiddling around with its position is probably going to be needed. When you have it pinned in a position you like, sew it on securely (use a needle and white sewing thread is highly preferable, as it will result in a more 'natural' looking joining than if you use yarn to attach it) Make any small adjustments as you sew. NOSE: (using black) Rnd 1: 4 sc in magic ring (4) Rnd 2: sc in each sc around (4) F/O leaving a small tail. Stuff the tail into the nose (that's all the stuffing you'll need). Sew onto muzzle as shown with black sewing thread. HAND/ARMS (make 2) Beginning with white at hand: Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6) Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12) Rnd 3: sc in each sc around (12) Rnd 4: sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc, sc next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc (10) Rnd 5: working in front loops only; 2 sc in each sc around (20) Rnd 6-7: sc in each sc around (20) Rnd 8: slip stitch in each sc around F/O. Curl cuff down over hand. ARM: Attach gold yarn to free loop from rnd 5. Rnd 1: sc in same loop as joining. sc in next 2 loops, dec over next 2 loops, sc in next 3 loops, dec over last 2 loops (8) Rnd 2-10: sc in each sc around (8) Stuff arm lightly to shape (but don't overstuff). Flatten open end and working through all layers, sc across end (4 sc) F/O and weave in ends. FEET/LEGS (make 2) For those that might be having troubles with the instructions for the feet, I put up a sort of a picture tutorial here: http://oth-help.blogspot.com/2013/03/sonic-foot-tutorial.html that may be of greater assistance. The color of the example is different, but the process is the same. :D Beginning at toe of foot with white: Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6) Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12) Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (18) Rnd 4-7: sc in each sc around (18) Rnd 8: sc in each sc around, change to red in last sc of round (18) Rnd 9-10: sc in each sc around (18) Rnd 11: sc in each sc around, do not join. Turn (18) Rnd 12-14: sc in each sc around, do not join rounds (18) Rnd 15: (beginning heel section) sc in next 6 sc (leave remaining sc unworked) turn (6) Rnd 16-18: sc in each sc turning at end of each row (6) F/O, leaving a tail. Using yarn needle, match the short rows of 6 to other 'side' of the heel, down heel and across bottom of foot to close up the heel. You should now have a 'foot' shaped piece. Stuff the foot moderately. Beginning cuff: Attach white to a stitch at the center of the heel portion of the foot. Rnd 1: sc in same stitch as joining. sc 11 more sc evenly around the opening of the foot (12) Rnd 2: working in front loops only; 2 sc in each sc around (24) Rnd 3: sc in each sc around (24) Rnd 4: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (36) Rnd 5: sc in each sc around (36) Rnd 6: sc in next sc, dec over next 2 sc around (24) F/O leave long tail. Curl the cuff down towards the foot. Add some stuffing lightly in the cuff to shape it as you like. Using the long tail and a yarn needle, weave through the last round worked and gently pull to tighten it. When you're pleased with the shape, secure the yarn and weave in loose ends. Leg: Attach gold yarn to a free loop from round 2 of cuff. Rnd 1: sc in same loop as joining, sc in next 3 loops, dec over next 2 loops, sc next 4 loops, dec over last 2 loops (10) Rnd 2-9: sc in each sc around (10) F/O. Stuff leg moderately but not overstuffed. Leave opening. EARS (make 2) Rnd 1: 4 sc in magic ring (4) Rnd 2: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc, 2 sc in last sc (6) Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (9) Rnd 4: sc in each sc around (9) Rnd 5: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (12) Rnd 6: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (15) Rnd 7: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (18) Rnd 8: sc in each sc around (18) Rnd 9: sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (21) Rnd 10: sc in each sc around (21) Flatten ear (ears aren't stuffed) and sc evenly across the end through all layers (you'll have 10 or 11 sc across depending on how you work it, it doesn't matter as long as both ears have the same 10 or 11 sc across) Cut a piece of white felt to fit inside the ear as shown and sew it on with sewing thread to match the felt. TAILS (make 2): NOTE: Rnds 23-30 of this part of the pattern will be worded very differently than other parts. You will see something like this: W-1, G-6 etc. This means to work 1 sc in white then 6 sc in gold, changing the colors as appropriate. Carry the unused color behind your work to be picked up as you need it. There will also be an 'alternate' tail pattern for those that would rather not do the frequent color changes. Rnd 1: 4 sc in magic ring (4) Rnd 2: sc in first sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc (6) Rnd 3: sc in each sc around (6) Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc (8) Rnd 5: sc in each sc around (8) Rnd 6: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc (10) Rnd 7: sc in each sc around (10) Rnd 8: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc (12) Rnd 9: sc in each sc around (12) Rnd 10: sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc (14) Rnd 11: sc in each sc around (14) Rnd 12: sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc (16) Rnd 13: sc in each sc around (16) Rnd 14: sc in next 7 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 7 sc, 2 sc in next sc (18) Rnd 15: sc in each sc around (18) Begin stuffing tail if you haven't already. Stuff moderately but don't overstuff. Continue stuffing as you progress. Rnd 16: sc in next 8 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 8 sc, 2 sc in next sc (20) Rnd 17: sc in each sc around (20) Rnd 18: sc in next 9 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 9 sc, 2 sc in next sc (22) Rnd 19: sc in next 10 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 10 sc, 2 sc in next sc (24) Rnd 20: sc in next 11 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 11 sc, 2 sc in next sc (26) Rnd 21: sc in next 12 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 12 sc, 2 sc in next sc (28) Rnd 22: sc in each sc around, change to white in last sc of round (28) Rnd 23: (refer to above notes for rounds 23 thru 30 for explanation of instructions) W-1, G-6, W-1, G-6, W-1, G-6, W-1, G-6 (28) Rnd 24: W-2, G-4, W-3, G-4, W-3, G-4, W-3, G-4, W-1 (28) Rnd 25: W-3, G-2, W-5, G-2, W-5, G-2, W-5, G-2, W-2 (28) Rnd 26: repeat rnd 25 (28) Rnd 27: W-4, G-1, W-6, G-1, W-6, G-1, W-6, G-1, W-2 (28) Rnd 28: repeat rnd 27 (F/O gold at end of round) (28) Rnd 29-30: Sc in each sc around (28) Rnd 31: sc in next 12 sc, dec over the next 2 sc, sc in next 12 sc, dec over the next 2 sc (26) Rnd 32: sc in each sc around (26) Rnd 33: sc in next 11 sc, dec over the next 2 sc, sc in next 11 sc, dec over the next 2 sc (24) Rnd 34: sc in each sc around (24) Rnd 35: * Ch 7, Sl st in 2nd ch from hook, sc next ch, hdc in next ch, dc in next 2 chs, treble crochet in last ch, skip 3 sc, sl st next sc * , repeat * to * for a total of 6 'points'. F/O. Weave in end. Flatten end of tail matching up the points for a total of 3 points. Using white sewing thread and sewing needle, sew the points together to create the 'end' of the tail (see photos for help). ALTERNATE TAIL: Work as shown to rnd 21. Rnd 22-25: Sc in each sc around, change to white in last sc of round 25 (28) Rnd 26-30: sc in each sc around (28) Rnd 31-35: complete tail as per instructions above. FINAL ASSEMBLY: I highly recommend pinning parts and pieces together before sewing. This allows you to position the pieces to your liking, and to make small adjustments before making it permanent. Using strong sewing thread to sew parts together also makes for a smoother, more natural looking joint than if using the yarn, but yarn will work too if that's what you have. Using the pictures to aid you in placement: Sew head to body. Sew front body panel to center of front of body, centered with muzzle (as shown). Arms are sewn to the side of the body, legs to the bottom of the body and positioned as you find most pleasing. Ears are sewn to the top of the head, just very slightly back from center. The 'cowlicks' in the front of the head are created by 'Ch 13, sl st in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 4 ch, hd in next 4 ch, dc in remaining chs. F/O Weave in ends. (make three of these) Sew these in a 'line' to the center of the forehead as shown. Mouth is embroidered on as shown. Eyes are cut from white felt, large ovals with a slightly flat bottom to the eye, curved just to match the curve of the muzzle. Cut smaller ovals of Blue felt for iris of eye, and slightly smaller ovals for the pupil of the eye. Catch lights are tiny ovals positioned as shown in the eye. Tails are sewn to the bottom of the body as shown in the pictures, positioned as you like. Miles "Tails" Prower, and Sonic the Hedgehog are Copyright Sega. This pattern is an original pattern by Linda Potts (March 2010). Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint it on your site. You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it in any way, or sell items made from this pattern.
Make now your own amigurumi Pikachu in a Umbreon sleeping bag! It's way to cute to resist! Start making him now with this free pattern!
