FREE DOWNLOAD by Linda Reynolds Learn the techniques used by the top fashion design houses for applying some of the more commonly used couture finishes in garment sewing. You'll find information and how-tos on:

Which stitch is best for sewing jersey knits? Here you’ll learn about the types of stitches for stretch knits on a regular sewing machine.

Don't stress over the tension dials on your sewing machine. Find out when and how to set and adjust thread tension.

plants require soil aeration, nutrition and water to thrive. If your garden soil is lacking in any of these, there is something that you can add to improve soil structure - vermiculite. What is vermic

Know everything about sewing machine and its usage Finding the right sewing machine? Yaa! It is rather complicated and it is important to

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There are so many different sewing needles available to sewists, it is sometimes difficult to know if you have chosen the correct needle for your project. On this page, we're going over 17 Types of Sewing Needles and their uses! We have compiled this guide to help you understand needles better and perfect your sewing. In this sewing needle guide, we will first go over the difference between hand sewing needles and machine sewing needles, including which types are available for each style. Once you have read about the two varieties of needles, you can learn in detail for which fabric each type is used. In the Types of Sewing Needles and Their Uses section, find out what each needle looks like and what is used for. We even have two "anatomy of a needle" diagrams for a quick look at the differences. Never choose the wrong needle again. With this resource, you will be able to find the best sewing needles, hand or machine, when shopping for your next sewing project. Can you use hand and machine needles interchangeably? No. If your sewing machine needle breaks, you cannot replace it with a hand needle and vice versa. As you will learn below by looking and reading about the different parts of needles, the end of each needle is different and will not work for a different type of sewing or way than it was made to be used. Sign Up For More Free Patterns

©2007-2014 www.grumperina.com. Information and images contained within this tutorial are copyrighted and cannot be used for any unintended purposes without my explicit permission. My general rules …

These stays are certainly the most complex cording project I've done, so I wanted to share how I've been going about it! First off, I'm using a totally different cording method than the ones shown in my Making a Corded Petticoat post. In both methods shown in that tutorial, the cord was put in place first and its channel was sewn around it. Those methods work just fine for a corded petticoat, but won't work very well for these stays. Instead, I'm sewing channels into the fabric first, then inserting the cording afterwards. As a reminder, this is the pattern I'm working with: Fabric Prep Since the criss-cross cording is the most difficult part of these stays, that's what we'll focus on. Each of the squares that make up the criss-cross pattern are only 0.25" wide, so they're very small and difficult to sew accurately. The space between each square forms the channel that the cord threads through. I'm using a green shot cotton as the pretty outer fashion layer of the stays, with two layers of thin but tightly woven white cotton as the strength layers. My stitches will go through all three layers of fabric, but the cording will be run between the two white layers of cotton. The first challenge was figuring out how to mark the stitching guidelines on the fabric. I could have made all the markings on the back of each piece, but I find that the top side of my stitching often looks a bit more precise than the back, so I needed a way to mark the green fabric so that I could stitch accurately, but not have the markings visible later. Squares marked with water soluble pen, with a penny for scale. At first I tried using a water soluble fabric marker that had a relatively fine tip. It showed up very well on the fabric, but since it is a marker and the fabric wicked the ink out a bit, the line it left was fairly thick. The thicker line made it very hard to see where exactly to stitch. Some of my test squares were more parallelogram than square, and the width of the squares varied between 5/16" and 3/16" wide. It may seem like I'm being overly picky, but that is a difference of 1/8", which means I was off in some areas by the width of half of a square! When working at such a small scale, even a little bit of deviation becomes extremely obvious. Wibbly wobbly stitching due to wide fabric marker guidelines. I considered using a fine mechanical pencil to draw more precise, accurate lines, but there were two potential issues. One, I was worried it wouldn't wash off well, leaving me with pencil lines all over my stays. Two, it's actually pretty hard to draw an accurate line on this fabric with a mechanical pencil, as the pressure of the lead warps and distorts the fabric as you're trying to draw. Can't draw a straight line b/c the pressure of the lead warps the fabric. Luckily, I was able to solve both issues at once with my favorite secret weapon: Mah super-sekrit weapon. Shh, don't tell! Starch has saved my butt on many a sewing project. Here, it serves two purposes. First, it stiffens the fabric so that it is almost paper-like, so now I can easily draw on it using the mechanical pencil without the fabric distorting. Now I can get perfectly straight, thin, highly accurate stitching lines! With starched fabric, no distortion! Comparison of marker lines vs mechanical pencil lines. Second, thanks to Lifeofglamour's various experiments with tinting starch for use on ruffs, I know that very often, pigments and dirt that are mixed in with or sitting on top of starch wash out without staining the fabric. When I tested this theory on my fabric, washing the starch out washed the pencil marks down the drain too! You can buy spray on starch or the liquid kind you dip your fabric into from the store, but thanks to Frolicking Frocks (dude, check out those petticoats!) I'm a convert to making my own out of cornstarch. My test stitching proves much more straight and accurate with the pencil guidelines, and after washing all evidence of the pencil lead is gone! Now that I've got that settled, the last step before stitching is to use a lightbox to trace my design onto the fabric. Stitching My original plan was to hand-stitch the stays, but I came to my senses after attempting a sample. I tried using my modern sewing machine, but it's very hard to stitch a line precisely 0.25" and stop in exactly the right place using the pedal control, so I pulled out the little Singer 99 hand crank machine I refurbished a few years ago instead. Remember this one? Isn't she pretty? With a hand crank, it's really easy to stop right at the exact number of stitches you want. A lot of fiddling and several tests later, I settled on a stitch length calibrated to precisely 1/16 of an inch, giving me squares that were 4 stitches wide on each side. Getting the correct stitch size is no mean feat on these old machines, since you set the length by screwing an unlabeled knob in or out as needed. That knob is the stitch length regulator. Notice the distinct lack of numbers or any useful markings of any sort? Now that I've got the length set, sewing each square is now as easy as starting the needle in the right place, sewing 4 stitches, sinking the needle on the 4th stitch, raising the presser foot, turning the fabric, putting the foot down again, sewing 4 more stitches, etc, all the way around the square. This leaves a bunch of thread tails all over the place. Of course I can't just trim them because the stitching would come out, so the loose threads are pulled to the back and tied off. Since I'm a bit paranoid about the knots coming undone, I put a dot of Fray-Check on each to prevent unraveling. Remember to test the Fray-Check on an inconspicuous spot first! My layers are thin, and on the first few knots I used too much and it soaked through to the front. Threads pulled to the back for tying. At first I was tying the threads after each square, but it's more efficient to sew several squares, then flip to the back and start pulling through/tying off. The problem with doing it that way is that those loose tails get in the way of stitching, and if you sew through the tail of a square a few rows down it's a mess to untangle. Luckily, I'm owned by two exceedingly furry felines, and thus have a clothing de-furring brush that doubles as a way to clear all my loose threads off to one side with a single swipe. Guess the fuzzbeasts are good for something. There's something like 200 tiny squares on just ONE front panel, plus more on each side panel, so you can see why this has been taking me a while! Cording After washing the starch out, drying, and pressing each piece, it's FINALLY time to stuff some cord in there. I'm using the same Sugar n' Cream cotton cord that I used in my corded petticoat. You'll want a cord of a width that fits fairly snugly in your channels, so choose accordingly, or stitch your channels to accommodate the cord you wish to use. I'm using a thick, blunt needle with a wide eye. Tapestry needles are perfect. The eye should be large enough that the cord just fits through it, but not so big that the needle won't fit through your channels with the now doubled cord in tow. I also have a pair needle nose pliers, because despite my best efforts, the eye of my needle still gets stuck in the fabric sometimes. When I made my last pair of corded stays, I broke the only good needle I had and swapped to one that was nearly the same, only sharp instead of blunt. It sorta worked, but the sharp tip kept shredding the fabric on both sides, and those scrapes later unraveled into larger holes, allowing the cord to poke out. I wouldn't have minded if they were all on the inside, but most of them were on the pretty outside! If all you can get is a sharp needle, grind the tip down. Holes in channels caused by sharp needle shredding fabric. Sadly, these are on the front, so they show when I wear it. On the backside of the stays, I poke the needle through just one layer of fabric right at the start of a channel. Since the needle is blunt, with some fabrics an awl is needed to start the hole. It takes a bit of practice to get the tip to go through just one layer of fabric, but practice makes perfect, right? Using an awl to start the hole. Threading the needle into the channel. Once inside, the needle is pushed down the length of the channel, dragging the cord behind it. It's tight, and I have to moosh (super technical term) and manipulate the fabric around the needle to move it along. Sometimes the pliers are necessary to pull the needle through the channel too. The eye is stuck at the entry to the channel, so I use pliers to help it along. At the opposite end, I poke the tip of the needle back out through the back fabric and pull it out, taking care to not pull all the cording out with it! The pliers are also super useful here, as the eye of the needle generally gets stuck on the way out. All the pushing and pulling on the needle is pretty rough on my fingers; using the pliers instead solves that problem. The downside is that I'm more likely to break a needle when pulling on it with the pliers. It's easier on my fingers to just use the pliers to pull the needle out. I don't trim the cord close to the fabric just yet; instead I cut it so there's about 1" still hanging out, then move on to the other channels. The places where the cords cross are a bit tricky to get through, but it's doable. Eventually I end up with a small forest of cord ends growing out of the back of the stays. Well that's a right mess. Once I've got a whole section done, I start trimming the stray tails. I cut the cord pretty close to the fabric, but not right flush with it. There are till some tiny tails hanging out. Trimmed close, with just a little bit hanging out. Then, without holding onto the cord, I tug on both ends of the channel, stretching the fabric slightly. Most of the tails pop back into their holes and disappear. A few are still sticking out a bit, but this is the inside of the garment, so I don't care overmuch. Gently stretching each channel. There are still holes at the start and end of each channel, but again, it's the inside, and they close up a little with time anyways. No more tails! Wow, that got lengthy! If any part of this tutorial isn't clear, let me know and I'll try to unmuddy it a bit. If you've got a cool cording project you're working on, show us in the comments! I've still got a few panels to go, so I'm off to the sewing table again for another late night.

This is a digital sewing pattern for a Fan-Skirt or Umbrella Skirt around 1890. The Fan-Skirt or Umbrella Skirt became fashionable around 1890. The simple but versatile cut, features a narrow waistline, flaring out at the hem keeping the balance with the gigot sleeves, fashionable at that time. Skirts were kept simple, to build a contrast with the rich decorated waists. The hem was supported with an extra layer of buckram or other stiff fabrics, cut on the same shape like the hem, or a straight strip pleated into shape. The skirt is fitted around the hips with darts and has a deep box pleat at the center back, hiding the placket. Pockets at the side seams can be made optional. The skirt pattern is suitable as well for day dress as for trained evening dresses. Consider more yardage for a trained skirts and using striped fabrics – see cutting information. Firmly woven and heavy fabrics optionally can be sewn as single layer. Flatline light and soft fabrics like taffeta or sateen at least with a medium weight cotton fabric. To save time and money sticking lots of sheets together, the pattern of the back part comes shortened. Many of my customers made shortened versions of this skirt for everyday wear. The skirt can be worn with or without a corset. Also suitable for steampunk costumes. →→WHAT YOU RECEIVE←← This is a DIGITAL pattern (PDF), you can download both size ranges and languages after payment has been confirmed. The pattern comes with detailed and illustrated sewing instructions in English and German. It is a multi-size sewing pattern, you can choose between Sizes US 8-18 (EU 34-44) and Sizes US 20-30 (EU 46-56). A seam allowance of 5/8" (1,5cm) is included in my patterns. The pattern is ready to be printed out on DIN A4 or US Letter. Format DIN A0 to be printed at a plotter / copy-shop comes with a second email at no additional costs. →→HOW MANY PATTERN PAGES TO PRINT←← The sewing pattern itself consists of: Size US 8-18 (EU 34-44): 30 pages A4/US letter or 1 1/2 A0 Size US 20-30 (EU 46-56): 32 pages A4/US letter or 1 A0 →→PATTERN INFORMATION←← Recommended fabrics: Fashion fabric: (Silk-) taffeta or satin, sturdy fabrics, velvet Lining (optional): light to midweight cotton fabrics Hem interfacing: (hair) canvas, stiff linen fabrics, buckram Yardage: Size US 8-18 (EU 34-44): Fashion fabric: 4.4 yds. 55“ wide (4m 140cm wide) With train (12“ / 30cm): 5.7 yds. 55“ wide (5,2m 140cm wide) Lining: see fashion fabric Hem interfacing: 1-2yds. (1-2m) depending on fabric width Twill tape for hem and waistband: 6yds. 3/4“ wide (6m 2m wide) Hooks and eyes Size US 20-30 (EU 46-56): Fashion fabric: 4.4 yds. 55“ wide (4m 140cm wide) With train: 6yds. 55“ wide (5,5m 140cm wide) Lining: see fashion fabric Hem interfacing: 1-2yds. (1-2m) depending on fabric width Twill tape for hem and waistband: 7yds. 3/4“ wide (6m 2m wide) Hooks and eyes Bustle pad: Fashion fabric: 1 yd. 55“ wide (4m 140cm wide) Batting: 1 yd. 55“ wide (4m 140cm wide) Twill tape 3/8“ (1cm) wide: 1yd. (1m)

This tutorial will show you how to make buttonholes using the zigzag stitch method without a buttonhole presser foot. With just a few simple steps, you'll be able to create professional-looking buttonholes in no time.

Code breakers use logic and intuition to uncover secret information. From ciphers in ancient Greece to modern computer encryption schemes, codes are becoming more complex and harder to solve. Who are the people breaking codes and how do they do it?

My favorite pressing tools I use for sewing are irons, ironing stations, ironing and pressing boards, a tailor's ham and a press cloth. They make my sewing life easier. I really can’t finish any sewing project without them. I hope this information will help you in your sewing adventure.

Pattern cutting is like writing a recipe for a cake (for me that's a chocolate cherry roulade at the moment!).

Du kennst das ja sicher: du willst “mal schnell” etwas Kleines nähen oder brauchst dringend…

To create this piece inspired by landscape I've put muslin into an embroidery frame then used overstitch to pull the threads apart. You coul...

WARNING: This post is loooong. I was going to break it up into two but I decided it’s easier to keep it all together, then those of you looking for coverstitch information can find it all in …

Edit 13 December, 2013: I was alerted today that the copyright for this book may have been renewed so I have taken down the link. I apologise for the inconvenience but this is a precaution I have t…

Sewing clips vs. pins - what sets these two tools apart, which one is better for your project, and which brands are the best.

©2007-2014 www.grumperina.com. Information and images contained within this tutorial are copyrighted and cannot be used for any unintended purposes without my explicit permission. My general rules …

In this guide, I am focusing on different types of threads for sewing. There are many types of sewing thread.

Sewing with knits doesn't have to be stressful! Learn how to make an elegant Bohemian Garden shrug and read tips for sewing with knits.

This vintage set of three wooden spools is collected throughout India and comes with jute twine and scissors. They are the perfect rustic accessories for adding vintage flair to your bookshelf, desk, or potting bench. Great for decorating or wrapping packages, this set is endlessly useful. Each spool comes with approximately 100 feet of jute and vintage inspired scissors.

Now that we have made a waldorf doll head, gotten all of our supplies ready, and printed out and sewn the pattern, it is time to put it all together! Step 1: Filling the limbs You will start by using your wool and firmly stuffing the limbs. I only stuff the legs and the arms […]

©2007-2014 www.grumperina.com. Information and images contained within this tutorial are copyrighted and cannot be used for any unintended purposes without my explicit permission. My general rules …

Necchi 539 Sewing Machine Manual in PDF/Digital format. Download instructions manual right away. Digital/PDF format for easy viewing on your computer, ipad, tablet. This is a digital e-manual only. Not a physical copy of the manual. This manual was scanned from an old Necchi manual so it will look just like the original manual. This means some pages may have bent corners, creases, markings, etc. Images, text, illustrations, and photos are all clear and readable. Fully printable. Manual is 41 pages long and covers instructions for the use and maintenance of vintage Necchi 539 and 538 Sewing Machines. Includes information on placing/winding/removing the bobbin, selecting needle and thread, sewing work, oiling/cleaning, and more. See photos for a full table of contents. Necchi Models Covered: 538 and 539 Sewing Machines - 41 page manual (43 pages including covers) - PDF/Digital Format Download manual instantly after payment through etsy. Please message me if you have any questions.

Are you having problems downloading a pattern you purchased through Quilting Digest? Is there another issue you need help with? Read through the rest of this page. Chances are there’s information here that will help you. Or, if you’re in a hurry, skip to a particular section using this menu: About the Patterns We …

Medieval - mythical theme costume gown with hanging sleeves, scoop neckline and collar variations. Size Guide Use body measurements not your 'ready to wear size' Measurements given below are in inches Sizes 4 6 8 10 12 14 Bust 29.5 30.5 31.5 32.5 34 36 Waist 22 23 24 25 26.5 28 Hip 31.5 32.5 33.5 34.5 36 38 Sizes 16 18 20 22 24 26 Bust 38 40 42 44 46 48 Waist 30 32 34 37 39 41.5 Hip 40 42 44 46 48 50 For more information and details on sizing >Click Here

Learn how to select and use a knit with confidence; this guide to the confusing world of knit fabrics will help you.

This is a physical, printed tissue paper pattern that will be shipped to your door. The Burnside Bibs are versatile overalls that can be dressed up or down. Shoulder straps transition to narrow ties with several options for tying. Intermediate level pattern This pattern is curvy size 18-34, for standard fit click here Cover model is wearing size 24 Free Alternate Pocket Expansion PDF Pattern here. Video Tutorial here, blog tutorial here. Need help choosing your size? See our Fit Guide for sizing information. Show us your #burnsidebibs on Instagram Pattern Features The Burnside Bibs have two front bib options - a scooped neck or the traditional straight front. Both bibs work with either version #1 or version #2.   Version #1 is a more fitted back pant with back waist darts and an invisible side zipper opening with less gathering in the back. Version #2 is a loose back pant that slips on over your hips and does not have a closure to sew. This version is fuller and more gathered in the back. Use your hip measurement to determine your size for version #2. Both versions also feature a front waistband, curved front patch pockets, optional back pockets, and cross-back straps that transition to narrower ties that thread through back waist belt loops forming back waist gathers. They may be tied in many ways - at the back, front or sides. The wide leg can be made full length or cropped.   Fabrics, Sundries & Measurements Fabrics: For a dressed up version choose light to mid-weight woven fabrics such as Tencel, linen, wool gabardine, or sandwashed silk.   For a casual version choose denim, canvas, or cotton twill. 12" invisible zipper required for version #1 Lightweight fusible interfacing   Sundries: 12"/30 cm invisible zipper (Version #1 only), thread, lightweight fusible interfacing (see Fabric Requirements for amounts) Tools: Fabric scissors, iron & ironing board, straight pins, tailors chalk, hand sewing needle Tutorials Burnside Bibs Sew-Along   Shipping Info To view our shipping and delivery information please click here.

• Instant Download PDF of Vintage Bernat Ear Warmer/Headband Knitting Pattern; 2 pages. • Pattern originally called for one 2-oz skein of Bernat Nylo Germantown, which was a 50/50 wool/nylon Worsted (#4) weight yarn. Yarn was held double, which means a Bulky or Super Bulky could be substituted. Also calls for 18 sew-on rhinestones. • Gauge: 9 sts = 2 inches, 5 rows = 1 inch on 10 ½ (6.5 mm) This pattern is in English and uses US standard terminology. All our individual patterns include scans of all pictures, written instructions, charts/graphs and general reference information included in the book/magazine they were originally published in (as applicable) just as they were originally published (no retyping). For more information on receiving/accessing purchased downloads, support, return policy, accepted payment forms, copyright and answers to FAQs, please see Delivery/Shipping & Policies below. ISBN: 06-0054-02

WARNING: This post is loooong. I was going to break it up into two but I decided it’s easier to keep it all together, then those of you looking for coverstitch information can find it all in …

This collection includes large graphics, so they'll work well for printed projects but can also be reduced in size for web graphics. High quality 300 dpi and comes in both transparent PNG and non-transparent JPG formats. Original artwork by Trina Walker. These designs come as separate images (not all on one sheet). Terms of Use Commercial use is allowed as long as the design is used within the context of your own new creation. In the case of line art, you may color it and also use it in your own designs, but you can't simply color it and sell the colored image by itself. Also, credit to bizzyhandscreations.com is required on all listings of your products. More Information How is clip art used? The possibilities are endless! Some examples are embroidery digitizing, painting patterns, cardmaking, scrapbooking, digital scrapbook kits, teachers' learning tools, web graphics, logos, banners, labels, gift tags, wedding, party, and shower invitations, save the dates, calendars, journals, stationery, letterhead, envelopes, candy wrappers, tea bag packets, cocoa packets, bookmarks, bag toppers, checkbook covers, and the list goes on forever! In addition, they can be used at "print on demand" sites, such as Zazzle and CafePress to make hundreds of different products, like t-shirts and coffee mugs. Finally: Clip art will come to you exactly as shown but without the word "SAMPLE." I sign and date all of my singles and consider my signature to be part of the artwork. So, where you see my signature on the preview, the image you receive will also include it. I'm not the great Bob Ross, but the artwork is mine; and like Bob, I sign my creations too. Clip Art Sets come in a zipped file and they are separated into individual images.

This is a digital sewing pattern for a Fan-Skirt or Umbrella Skirt around 1890. The Fan-Skirt or Umbrella Skirt became fashionable around 1890. The simple but versatile cut, features a narrow waistline, flaring out at the hem keeping the balance with the gigot sleeves, fashionable at that time. Skirts were kept simple, to build a contrast with the rich decorated waists. The hem was supported with an extra layer of buckram or other stiff fabrics, cut on the same shape like the hem, or a straight strip pleated into shape. The skirt is fitted around the hips with darts and has a deep box pleat at the center back, hiding the placket. Pockets at the side seams can be made optional. The skirt pattern is suitable as well for day dress as for trained evening dresses. Consider more yardage for a trained skirts and using striped fabrics – see cutting information. Firmly woven and heavy fabrics optionally can be sewn as single layer. Flatline light and soft fabrics like taffeta or sateen at least with a medium weight cotton fabric. To save time and money sticking lots of sheets together, the pattern of the back part comes shortened. Many of my customers made shortened versions of this skirt for everyday wear. The skirt can be worn with or without a corset. Also suitable for steampunk costumes. →→WHAT YOU RECEIVE←← This is a DIGITAL pattern (PDF), you can download both size ranges and languages after payment has been confirmed. The pattern comes with detailed and illustrated sewing instructions in English and German. It is a multi-size sewing pattern, you can choose between Sizes US 8-18 (EU 34-44) and Sizes US 20-30 (EU 46-56). A seam allowance of 5/8" (1,5cm) is included in my patterns. The pattern is ready to be printed out on DIN A4 or US Letter. Format DIN A0 to be printed at a plotter / copy-shop comes with a second email at no additional costs. →→HOW MANY PATTERN PAGES TO PRINT←← The sewing pattern itself consists of: Size US 8-18 (EU 34-44): 30 pages A4/US letter or 1 1/2 A0 Size US 20-30 (EU 46-56): 32 pages A4/US letter or 1 A0 →→PATTERN INFORMATION←← Recommended fabrics: Fashion fabric: (Silk-) taffeta or satin, sturdy fabrics, velvet Lining (optional): light to midweight cotton fabrics Hem interfacing: (hair) canvas, stiff linen fabrics, buckram Yardage: Size US 8-18 (EU 34-44): Fashion fabric: 4.4 yds. 55“ wide (4m 140cm wide) With train (12“ / 30cm): 5.7 yds. 55“ wide (5,2m 140cm wide) Lining: see fashion fabric Hem interfacing: 1-2yds. (1-2m) depending on fabric width Twill tape for hem and waistband: 6yds. 3/4“ wide (6m 2m wide) Hooks and eyes Size US 20-30 (EU 46-56): Fashion fabric: 4.4 yds. 55“ wide (4m 140cm wide) With train: 6yds. 55“ wide (5,5m 140cm wide) Lining: see fashion fabric Hem interfacing: 1-2yds. (1-2m) depending on fabric width Twill tape for hem and waistband: 7yds. 3/4“ wide (6m 2m wide) Hooks and eyes Bustle pad: Fashion fabric: 1 yd. 55“ wide (4m 140cm wide) Batting: 1 yd. 55“ wide (4m 140cm wide) Twill tape 3/8“ (1cm) wide: 1yd. (1m)

WARNING: This post is loooong. I was going to break it up into two but I decided it’s easier to keep it all together, then those of you looking for coverstitch information can find it all in …