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Hello all, Today I need to make myself clear. I am NOT going to talk about the Native American nation known as the Comanche, but a Lemko village and region which is currently within the borders of the Polish State. In Polish it is spelled Komańcza, in Ukrainian and in Lemko it is written Команча or Команчe. Ethnic identity of the Lemki is somewhat controverted. Ukrainians consider them to be a branch of the Ukrainian Nation with very distinct dialects and customs. The Polish have at various times tried to alternatively suppress, cleanse, or assimilate them. Some insist on calling them Carpatho-Russians. Some claim that they form a micro-nationality who call themselves Rusyny, usually translated into English as Ruthenian. You will find individual Lemki who identify with each of these camps. 'Lemko' is a tern coined by their neighbors, referring to a word used in the Lemko dialect 'lem', which Ukrainians and Poles do not use. Some Lemki have accepted this term. This term is not used by the Rusnaks who live south of the Carpathians or by the neighboring Slovaks. In any case, they form a distinctive group of people with a distinctive group of dialects, whether they are considered to be a branch of the Ukrainians or a closely related brother nation. The painting at the top of the article was made by O. Kul'chytska, an artist who went around in the 1930's painting the traditional clothing of villagers in many parts of West Ukraine. Her work has been invaluable for those of us who came after. I have rewritten and expanded this article, Please look at the new one here https://folkcostume.blogspot.com/2018/10/overview-of-costumes-of-lemkos-rusyns_31.html Here is an interview with an old lady from Komancha, telling how things used to be. She is wearing a modern Ukrainian blouse, but has Lemko embroidery and costume pieces around and shows them off towards the end http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XXcny2TvtZg Here is a link to a website showing various Lemko costumes made by Vasyl' Jula He has asked me to point out that these were made for the stage and real costumes would be somewhat more subdued. http://www.lemko.org/art/jula/ Here is a flicker page showing various Lemko garments. http://www.flickr.com/photos/33381574@N07/5194822145/in/set-72157625438270902/ Source Material: Bohdan Struminsy, Editor, 'Lemkiwshchyna -The Lemko Land' New York, 1988 Tamara Nikolajeva, 'Ukrajinskyj Kostium, Nadija na Renesans' Kyjiw [Kiev], 2005 Iryna Hurhula, 'Narodne Mystetstvo Zakhidnykh Oblastej Ukrajiny', Kyjiw [Kiev], 1966 Oksana Grabowycz, 'Traditional Designs in Ukrainian Textiles', New York, 1977 Stanislaw Gadomski, 'Stroj Ludowy w Polsce', Warsaw, Oksana Kosmina, 'Traditional Ukrainian Clothing', Kyjiw [Kiev], 2007 V. Kubijovyc, 'Lemkos', article in Encyclopedia of Ukraine, Toronto, 1993 V. Bilozub et al, 'Ukrajins'ke Narodne Mystetstvo - Vbrannia', Kyjiw [Kiev], 1961 Peter Odarchenko et al, 'Ukainian Folk Costume', Toronto, 1992 Ewa Frys et al, 'Folk Art in Poland', Warsaw, 1988 M. Bilan, H. Stel'mashchuk, 'Ukrajinskyj Strij', L'viw, 2000 O. Kul'chytska, 'Folk Costumes of the Western Regions of the Ukrainian SSR, 1959
Some photos, gathered from many different sources The old photos always touched and inspired me. They always ask the question: who were these people? How they lived? Old time photos with Ukrainian …
Нарешті настала довгоочікувана пора літніх відряджень-експедицій! Долеско Світлана, Музиченко Ольга та Олексій Плиско, озброївшись посмішками, допитливими поглядами, хорошим настроєм, диктофоном та фотокамерою, вирушили в триденну колоритну мандрівку Прикарпатською Косівщиною. Неможливо описати…
Padded wool żupan with linen lining, modeled on Żupan Żółkiewski (National Military Museum in Krakow), sometimes called a Tartar coat. Military clothing was worn under the armor and tied at the waist. Sewn according to a historical pattern. The coat has one slit at the back for comfort. The sleeves are quite wide at the top, and then narrow at the wrist. Clothing layers: 1. Outer material - wool cloth. 2. Soft inner layer of fabric (fleece) for added rigidity and protection. The padding is thicker on the shoulders and upper back. 3. Linen lining. Machine sewing to your dimensions. Available on request. Choose the color of your clothes to your liking. Just contact me via email and let me know!
The collection of photographs belongs to Ukrainian center of folk culture "Ivan Honchar Museum". These photos were taken from the historical and ethnographic album "Ukraine and Ukrainians". The photos show traditional Ukrainian clothing from different regions. They were made in the end of 19th and the beginning of 20th century. The main characters of photo collection are ordinary people and families. All photos are in original vintage frames.
Embroidery is the art or process of forming decorative designs with hand or machine needlework. There is no end to the types of stitches and their possibilities, singularly or in combination. Mother and daughter in Hutsul dress. The 'sorochky' and 'keptarl' vest are embroidered. The little girl's 'sorochka' has all the traditional elements, but in miniature. I just love the beaded 'sylianka' 'gerdan' around her neck. Photographed at the Yaremche Festival, 2006 Many nations have there own unique styles which serves to identify where the people are from. Folk costumes can be very specific to a particular village, a region, and finally a nation. This was true in the late XVIII centuries to mid XX centuries in Ukraine and its neighbours. Hutsul region. Love how the 'sylainka' beadwork goes with the embroidery. The 'serdak' jacket is also embroidered with wool. Yaremche Festival, 2006 A few embroidered 'sorochky' on display at the 60th anniversary exhibit of Ukrainian National Museum, 2012 Nastasiya Marusyk wears a Bukovynian bead embroidered 'sorochka' from Zastawniw and a bugle beaded 'obhortka' wrap skirt. Olya's 'sorochka' is also beaded while her 'obhortka is woven. Nastia embroidered this original 'rushnyk' ritual cloth. Ukrainian National Museum, Chicago, 2012 Embroidery can be a work of art in itself. An expression of creativity. Close-up detail of Nastia's own 'rushnyk' pictured above, 2012 Detail of another of Nastasiya's unique 'rushnyky', 2012 Traditional embroidery with a one of a kind pictorial story below. Seems like love was in the air when this 'sorochka' sleeve was embroidered. Detail of a 'sorochka' from the Hnatiuk Collection. Note the "carved out" design created with a clever use of the needle and thread. Ukrainian Museum and Archives, OH, 2011 Borschiw 'sorochka', Ternopil Region, from the Hnatiuk Collection. Ukrainian Museum and Archives, OH, 2011 Detail of a 'sorochka' from the Pokuttya Region. Collection of O. Turyansky, Ivano Frankivsk, 2004 Bedcover sewn together using Bukovynian 'sorochky' from the end of the XIX century by Osypa Hryhorovych of Majeriw, Ukraine. Ukrainian Museum and Library, CT, 2012 Bukovynian 'sorochka' sleeve panel from the bedcover. Note the metalic beads and sequins embellishment. Ukrainian Museum and Library, CT, 2012 Bukovynina 'sorochka' sleeve panel from the bedcover. Strings of seed beads color the flowers. Ukrainian Museum and Library, CT, 2012 Dnipro Region 'sorochka' and embroidered 'korsetka'. Ukrainian National Museum, IL, 2012 Detail of 'sorochka' embroidered with cross-stitched flowers. Ukrainian National Museum, IL, 2012 Detail of a Bukovynian 'sorochka', mid XIX century. Ukrainian National Museum, IL, 2012 Opillya Region. Seed bead embroidered corsette with sequins on the tabs. Hnatiuk Collection, Ukrainian Museum and Archives, OH, 2011 Opillya. Same region, but the individual's personality is revealed with her own seed bead embroidered flowers. Ukrainian Museum and Archive, OH, 2011 The loom size determined the width of each panel. The cut and construction is very basic. The embellishment is gorgeous. Note decorative stitching to camouflage the seams. 'Sorochka' framed as art. This 'sorochka' is embellished with beads. Ukrainian National Museum, IL, 2012 Sleeve detail of the 'sorochka'. Note the interesting pattern created by repeating three motifs . Also the raised white motifs are created by unique 'curly' stitches. Seed beads embellish the black outlined motifs. Ukrainian National Museum, IL, 2012 Detail of my 'sorochka' from the Bukovynian Region. Note the bead embellishment in the flowers. Maria Rypan Collection, 2006 It does not have to be an even count fabric, though this is handy for cross-stitch and geometric patterns. Sheepskin has been used to embroider on in the Carpathian Mountains. Deerskin was used by the First Nations. The cut and decorative design of dresses or jackets told from which nation the wearer was from. Pouches, bandolier bags and moccasins were also embroidered in regional styles. Santee Dakota Northern Plains men's jacket, about 1870's. It has glass and metallic beads embroidered on tanned hide. Museum of Civilization, QC, 2010 Moccasin display. Bata Shoe Museum, Toronto, 2012 Pair of Southeastern beaded moccasins. Bata Shoe Museum, 2012 Woodland beaded moccasins display. Bata Shoe Museum, 2012 Pair of Woodland beaded moccasins. Bata Shoe Museum, 2012 In bead embroidery, a single or combination of "anything with a hole in it"can be picked up on a needle and stringing material. The beads are secured to fabric or a new embroidery medium courtesy of a few stitches. Some people embroider accessories, i.e. bags, clutch purses, headdress, even shoes. Beaded butterfly decorating an embellished shoe by Roger Vivier, France. Special exhibit at the Bata Shoe Museum, 2012 Pearls seed bead embroidered shoes by Roger Vivier, France. Special exhibit at the Bata Shoe Museum, 2012 Embroidered fabric shoes by Roger Vivier, France. Special exhibit at the Bata Shoe Museum, 2012 Roaring Twenties hat embellished with fabric flowers and creatively embroidered leaves coordinate nicely with the shoes with cut-out pattern on the tips. Bata Shoe Museum, 2012 Embroidery can be used to embellish functional objects around the home. There is no end to the possibilities here. It could be a table runner, tablecloth, decorative pillow, curtains or wall hangings. In retrospect, you've just seen fine examples of decorative embroidery created in two very different corners of the world. There's plenty here to inspire your creativity. And I haven't even touched on the new forms of bead embroidery around cabochons! Freeform embroidery is fun. There are a lot of gorgeous neckpieces and bracelets being created today. We'll just have to continue this topic another time... Meanwhile, do give embroidering a try. It can be very Zen-like calming change of pace!
People from village Zdiar in the Goral folk-costumes in Slovakia! From Natasa H.
Півдня сьогодні провела в Хотині - ну дуже получився там душевний фест, дуже. Починаю картинко-атаку. Фестиваль був приурочений до 390-ї річниці Хотинської битви 1621 р. На жаль, на реконструкторів цьогоріч у хотинчан не вистачило коштів, тому повторення шикарної битви-2009 не буде. Нагадаю, якщо…
A stark reminder of what is at stake.
Hello all, Today I need to make myself clear. I am NOT going to talk about the Native American nation known as the Comanche, but a Lemko village and region which is currently within the borders of the Polish State. In Polish it is spelled Komańcza, in Ukrainian and in Lemko it is written Команча or Команчe. Ethnic identity of the Lemki is somewhat controverted. Ukrainians consider them to be a branch of the Ukrainian Nation with very distinct dialects and customs. The Polish have at various times tried to alternatively suppress, cleanse, or assimilate them. Some insist on calling them Carpatho-Russians. Some claim that they form a micro-nationality who call themselves Rusyny, usually translated into English as Ruthenian. You will find individual Lemki who identify with each of these camps. 'Lemko' is a tern coined by their neighbors, referring to a word used in the Lemko dialect 'lem', which Ukrainians and Poles do not use. Some Lemki have accepted this term. This term is not used by the Rusnaks who live south of the Carpathians or by the neighboring Slovaks. In any case, they form a distinctive group of people with a distinctive group of dialects, whether they are considered to be a branch of the Ukrainians or a closely related brother nation. The painting at the top of the article was made by O. Kul'chytska, an artist who went around in the 1930's painting the traditional clothing of villagers in many parts of West Ukraine. Her work has been invaluable for those of us who came after. I have rewritten and expanded this article, Please look at the new one here https://folkcostume.blogspot.com/2018/10/overview-of-costumes-of-lemkos-rusyns_31.html Here is an interview with an old lady from Komancha, telling how things used to be. She is wearing a modern Ukrainian blouse, but has Lemko embroidery and costume pieces around and shows them off towards the end http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XXcny2TvtZg Here is a link to a website showing various Lemko costumes made by Vasyl' Jula He has asked me to point out that these were made for the stage and real costumes would be somewhat more subdued. http://www.lemko.org/art/jula/ Here is a flicker page showing various Lemko garments. http://www.flickr.com/photos/33381574@N07/5194822145/in/set-72157625438270902/ Source Material: Bohdan Struminsy, Editor, 'Lemkiwshchyna -The Lemko Land' New York, 1988 Tamara Nikolajeva, 'Ukrajinskyj Kostium, Nadija na Renesans' Kyjiw [Kiev], 2005 Iryna Hurhula, 'Narodne Mystetstvo Zakhidnykh Oblastej Ukrajiny', Kyjiw [Kiev], 1966 Oksana Grabowycz, 'Traditional Designs in Ukrainian Textiles', New York, 1977 Stanislaw Gadomski, 'Stroj Ludowy w Polsce', Warsaw, Oksana Kosmina, 'Traditional Ukrainian Clothing', Kyjiw [Kiev], 2007 V. Kubijovyc, 'Lemkos', article in Encyclopedia of Ukraine, Toronto, 1993 V. Bilozub et al, 'Ukrajins'ke Narodne Mystetstvo - Vbrannia', Kyjiw [Kiev], 1961 Peter Odarchenko et al, 'Ukainian Folk Costume', Toronto, 1992 Ewa Frys et al, 'Folk Art in Poland', Warsaw, 1988 M. Bilan, H. Stel'mashchuk, 'Ukrajinskyj Strij', L'viw, 2000 O. Kul'chytska, 'Folk Costumes of the Western Regions of the Ukrainian SSR, 1959
The official creative page of the Ukrainian artist Ola Haydamaka. Buy paintings, learn the meaning of works of art and artist's biography.
Hello all, Today I will continue my discussion of the costume of Eastern Polissia. Above is a painting by Zinaida Vasina showing the three types of costume found in this region.The seated girl is wearing a plakhta with a brocade apron and a Yupka, the girl standing on the left is wearing the costume with andarak, and the woman on the right is wearing the garment known as Talijka. This is often referred to in Ukrainian books simply as Spidnytsia z Nadhrudnykom, or 'skirt with bodice'. This is only found in some pockets in eastern Polissia, in Zhytomyr, Chernyhiw, and Novhorod-Sivirskyj regions, along the northern borders. It may be tempting to see this as a Ukrainian version of the Sarafan, but in fact, the construction is quite different. The talijka is a skirt gathered into a bodice, which usually buttons up in front. The Sarafan is a skirt with shoulder straps which is worn just below the arms and has no waist and no bodice. Here is an image of the typical Russian Sarafan. Here is a front and back view of the talijka. This type of garment is very common in Scandinavia and Central Europe, in fact it reminds me very much of the costume of Mezőség in Transylvania, but is not at all common in Eastern Europe. There are similar garments worn in Bielorus along the Dnipro, and in Russia in Voronezh, both of which are rather close to this area, but it does not resemble the typical Russian or Bielorussian costume any more than it does the Ukrainian. Here is a girl's costume from Biriuch, east of Voronezh, in Russia, about 500 miles east of the region we are discussing. While this garment has a superficial resemblance, in fact it is cut like a typical Sarafan, there is no seam at the waist and no bodice. This garment is very odd because the typical Russian costume all along the Ukrainian border consists of the Poneva, not the Sarafan, and even in this region the sarafan is only worn by unmarried girls. I do not believe there is any connection between this garment and the Talijka. The Bielorussian Saian seems to be related, however. Here are front and back views of the costume of Krasnapolle region, Mahiliow Province, Belarus. Note that while this garment has shoulder straps resembling the sarafan, there is a seperate bodice into which the skirt of the garment is gathered. This garment is always worn with a chemise whose hem shows below the talijka, and an apron belted at the waist, as is the case with almost all Ukrainian Costumes. The talijka can be made of various materials, most commonly of a dark wool with ribbon trim, but may also be made of cotton print. The apron is commonly of linen with the typical red and black cross stitch or other technique which is also used on the chemise. Or the embroidery on the apron may be a free form floral satin stitch. This may also be done on the chemise. This is a more recent type of embroidery. The use of free form floral embroidery has a longer tradition on aprons and other outer garments made of wool or colored cloth. Like the Andarak, the Talijka may also be embroidered. You will notice the seam across the top which provides fullness for the bust. This seam is visible in the drawings above, where it gives the appearance of a yoke. This cut is also found in some Dirndles of south Germany and Austria. The Talijka may also be fitted in the bust, as in this example. There is no doubt that this is a relatively recent garment, but it can form a harmonious part of Ukrainian Costume, as unusual as it is. Perhaps I should count this as a 6th type of Ukrainian Costume, but It is quite uncommon. Most likely this garment is derived from the skirt [andarak, litnyk] traditional to this area, combined with the short vest without peplum common over much of Polissia sewn together into one garment. This is unique in all of Ukraine. Here are a couple of images of Polissian costume with skirt and the short vest. You can see the similarity. Thank you for reading, I hope you have found this interesting and informative. Make embroidered garments part of your everyday life. Feel free to contact me with requests for research. I hope to eventually cover all of Europe and the Former Russian Empire/Soviet Union. I also gratefully accept tips on source materials which i may not have. I also accept commissions to research/design, sew, and/or embroider costumes or other items for groups or individuals. I also choreograph and teach folk dance. Roman K. [email protected] Source Material: Vira Zaichenko, 'Vysywka Chernyhiwshchyny' [Embroidery of the Chernyhiw Region], Rodovid Publishers, Kyjiw [Kiev], 2010 S. H. Kolosa, I. V. Hurhula, 'Ukrajins'ke Narodne Mystetsvo - Vbrannia', Kyjiw [Kiev], 1961 Tamara Nykolaieva, 'Ukrainian Costume: Hope for a Renaissance, Kyjiw {Kiev], 2005 M. S. Bilan, H. H. Stel'mashchuk, 'Ukrajinskyj Stryj' [Ukrainian Folk Attire], L'viw, 2000 Oksana Kosmina, 'Ukrajins'ke Narodne Vbrannia' [Ukrainian Folk Dress], Kyjiw, 2006 Vadym Myronov, 'Ukrajins'kyj Kostium', Kyjiw 1977 Oksana Kosmina, 'Traditional Ukrainian Clothing vol 2', Kyjiw [Kiev], 2009 V. Myronow, 'Ukrajinskyj Kostium', Kyjiw [Kiev[ 1977 Z. Vasina, 'Ukrajinske Narodne Vbrannia', Kyjiw [Kiev], 2009 S. Gorozhanina, 'Russkij Narodnyj Svabednyj Kostium', Tver, 2003 M. Ramaniuk, 'Bielaruskaie Narodnaie Adzennie', Minsk, 1981 Тамара Косміна, Зінаїда Васіна "Українське весільне вбрання" , Київ, 1989 Tamara Kosmina, Zinajida Vasina 'Ukraijins'ke Vesil'ne Vbrannia', Kyjiw [Kiev], 1989
Slavic workshop Treti Pivni (translated as Third Rooster) has recently created an amazing new series of portraits featuring women and children wearing traditional Ukrainian headdresses. It was created to pay homage to their homeland while sharing a message of peace, tenderness, and knowledge of the Ukrainian culture with the world.
A beautiful exhibition of the Ukrainian avant garde’s theatre design from the 1910s and 20s is establishing a sense of identity for the art of a nation that has been split between its historical ties to the union with Russia and the need to find its own voice
Жены и сестры бойцов АТО снялись в невероятной фотосессии
