Oh,... have I ever been having fun with new fabrics and new pincushion designs. I just had to share this Thread Catcher that I completed moments ago. I just posted it for sale at my Etsy Shop . Isn't this pincushion the just the cutest! That's a five inch Dresden Plate quilt block applied to the top of the pincushion! I know, I know, I'm crazy, aren't I? Fast Forward! This pattern, as well as two other Thread Catcher Patterns is now available at my Etsy shop, Curry Bungalow. https://www.etsy.com/shop/CurryBungalow
You can learn to quilt on small projects just as easily as on big quilts! Here's a big list of easy, small quilt projects that you can make, that aren't entire quilts.
I am making a billion {8} knit pajama tops for Christmas gifts this year, and I have gone from feeling intimidated by neckbands, to feeling pretty comfortable with them. I thought I would share my …
Learn how to make a v-neck t-shirt with this easy sewing tutorial and free pattern in women's size large. V-neck t-shirt pattern.
Ich habe letzte Woche mir ein schönes schnelles T-Shirt genäht. Da ich die Verarbeitung am Halsausschnitt mit dem Einfassband nicht ganz wie die feine Art versäubert habe, sondern auf eine etwas sc…
I originally posted this project in August and have been meaning to make it again to do a tutorial ever since. This bag combines elements from a number of different tutorials and projects out there, I basically mixed and matched elements to come up with what I wanted. It has squared off bottom corners which give it a good amount of inside volume and a nice shape. It can stand up (and would stand up even more if made with home dec weight fabric or using interfacing). It would be great as a small makeup or jewelry bag, to hold knitting or sewing notions, or for whatever you want! Also, this is clearly not a grocery bag, but in the spirit of the Green Grocery Bag Challenge, you could make these to use as "wrapping" for small holiday gifts. See below for the tutorial and for a sneak preview of another project (and tutorial) coming soon! If you make a pouch with this tutorial I would love to see how it turned out - you can share a photo in the Needle and Spatula Flickr group. TERMS OF USE: For personal, non-commercial use only. If you are interested in making these pouches for small-scale commercial sales (eg craft fairs, etsy), please contact me and we can discuss a licensing agreement. DONATE TO SUPPORT THIS TUTORIAL - this tutorial is provided free of charge, if you would like to show your appreciation and support the free patterns I provide here, you can donate here (or it helps if you click through to any of the amazon links on this site, whether you purchase that particular product or not!). Thanks for your support! What you will need: Two 2"x7" rectangles of fabric for top band on outside of bag Two 5"x9" rectangles of fabric for bottom of outside of bag Two pieces of fabric ~7"x9" for inside of bag 9" or longer zipper in coordinating color Mid- or light-weight fusible interfacing (if a stiffer bag is desired - I did not use) Thread in a color that looks nice with your fabrics I used quilting weight cotton fabric, but you could also use home dec weight fabric for the outside, or interfacing on the outside pieces (which you would apply before the first step), to make a bag with a bit more body. All seams are 1/4" unless noted otherwise. Also, the bag has pleats on the outside but an unpleated lining - if you want to give the bag more inner volume, you could replace the lining pieces with another set of pleated pieces made the same as the outside. First, on the bottom outside pieces, mark lightly at the top (long) edge of the rectangle at 3.5", 4.5"(middle), and 5.5" from the edge. Mark just at the very top of the edge so that the markings will be hidden in the seam (I like to do this as extra insurance even if I use dissappearing ink). Fold the two outer markings so each comes in to the center point and pin in place as shown below. You will note that the sides are now flaring up slightly. To get rid of this flare, lay a ruler on top of this piece at the same level as the center point (which is the lowest point on the top edge). Mark a straight horizontal line across the top edge as shown below, and then cut off the two resulting triangles (which should be the same size). Repeat for the other side. Pin the front bottom pieces to the top pieces and sew together (sorry these next two pics didn't turn out great - I was trying not to use my flash but they are kind of blurry, I think you can still tell what to do). Iron open and topstitch along the bottom edge of the top piece, if desired. Place your outside piece face down on the lining fabric and use it as a template to cut out the lining pieces. Now you should have two finished outer pieces and two lining pieces. I do my zippers a bit differently from most other folks... I like to use an extra long zipper (mine is longer than necessary in this pic, this is just the size I had on hand), and then sew with the zipper pull off to the side - this way you don't have to worry about sewing around the zipper pull or accidentally sewing on the metal stop bits. If you want a neater look for your zipper ends, you could also use tabs like on Noodlehead's gathered clutch although then you would need to put the zipper pull in the middle from the start. So, with the zipper facing up, sandwich the top edge of the zipper in between the outside and lining pieces for one side of the bag. The outer fabric should be on top and the lining fabric should be on the bottom, and they should have right sides facing eachother. Pin in place and sew to the zipper in about the middle of the zipper tape (1/8" to 3/16" from the edge). Press both the outer and lining pieces to the opposite side. Now repeat for the other side, making sure that the pieces are lined up centered above the other side. Iron to the opposite side and unzip the zipper to the mid-point of bag. (Very important!) Now, fold the outer sides and lining sides of the bag together, right sides facing. Pin all the way around the bag but leave a 2-3" gap where you will not sew at the center of the bottom of the lining piece. Fold the zipper pieces to one side or the other (with the top of the zipper facing the lining or facing the outside of the bag) and pin securely at the zippers, particularly the unzipped side. Sew all the way around, leaving the gap at the bottom. Be careful in going over the zippers, you are going through a lot of layers so your sewing maching may have issues (you may want to use a larger needle size for this step to make sure it is sturdy enough). I usually sew back and forth over the zipper ends an extra time to secure them but this may not be necessary. You can cut off the excess ends of the zippers now or at any point before you turn the bag inside out. Iron the corners open so that the two seams lay on top of eachother and the corner forms a triangle. Mark a line perpendicular to the seams that is 1" down from the point (should be 2" across) - as shown below. Sew just below the marked line (closer to the main bag body) for each corner, then cut off the ends leaving 1/4" or slightly more seam allowance. Once you cut them off you will see that the ends open up to be little squares. Turn the bag inside out through the opening left in the bottom, then tuck the open edges inside the bag and press the edge to make it neat. Pin across the open edge and stitch as close to the edge as you can to close the opening (or you can stitch by hand). Congrats, you're done! Enjoy your bag! Here is a sneak preview of another project that I will post a tutorial for in the next few days - a card purse with a fabric covered button. I just have to make it again and take photos this time! But it is a quick project.
A complete step by step sewing tutorial on how to put zippers into zippered pouches.
Learn how to make a v-neck t-shirt with this easy sewing tutorial and free pattern in women's size large. V-neck t-shirt pattern.
Tutorial para confeccionar distintos tipos de escotes en V, muy utilizados en uniformes de trabajo (sanidad, hortelería, etc.) Vamos a ver tres variantes de escotes en pico o "V" Cortamos dos vistas para el delantero de 7 centímetros de ancho, y largo suficiente (luego recortamos lo que sobre), y las planchamos a lo largo: Cosemos las vistas dobladas al canto del escote a medio centímetro el borde y rematando al final con varias puntadas atrás: Importante: Ambas costuras deben quedar del mismo largo y con 3 centímetros de distancia al final entre ellas, porque este será el ancho terminado de la vista. Por el revés cortamos en el delantero y de forma oblícua justo hasta el final de las costuras. Nos quedará una pestaña así: ¡Ojo, cuidado no cortar el pespunte ni las vistas! Volvemos las vistas hacia el centro: Y planchamos: Sometemos la pestaña resultante hacia dentro: Por el revés cosemos la pestaña sobre las vistas, desde el final de una costura hasta justo el final de la otra: Este es el resultado por el derecho: Y por el revés, una vez sobrehilados los márgenes: Para el escote trasero sigue leyendo el post hasta el final Otras variantes: Pegar un trocito de entretela en la prenda para reforzar esta parte. Planchar los dos bies a lo largo y colocarlos sobre el escote para calcular el ángulo (podrá ir mas o menos abierto según el escote) Marcar la línea por donde coseremos siguiendo la línea del centro de la blusa. Abrir los bies y encarar derechos. Unir ambos cosiendo sobre la línea marcada. Recortar márgenes y planchalos abiertos. Poner los bieses con el revés hacia dentro. Coser el primer lado partiendo exactamente del centro de la blusa y del centro del angulo. Estos dos puntos deben coincidir exactamente para que el pico quede centrado. Por el revés hacemos el piquete con cuidado de no cortar el bies, hasta justo la costura. Por el derecho comprobamos que quedó centrado. PERO VAMOS A SEGUIR CON LA OTRA VERSIÓN (En la foto de la derecha se ve como quedaría por el revés una vez terminado) Para el bies montado, colocamos las dos tiras planchadas tal como quedarían sobre el escote para calcular el ángulo necesario y los unimos con la forma resultante Recortar las esquinas sobrantes. Coser el primer lado al escote tal como describí antes, haciendo coincidir exactamente el centro de la blusa y el centro el cuello. Hacer el piquete por el revés con cuidado, justo hasta la costura. Comprobamos que coinciden los centros. Por el derecho marcar ligeramente con la plancha el lado que falta por coser. Por el revés, coser siguiendo esta línea de plancha marcada empezando justo desde el final de la costura primera. ESCOTE TRASERO Cosemos los hombros, entretelamos la vista y la prendemos al escote trasero, derecho con derecho. Pespuntear sobre la vista al lado de la costura de colocación y volverla hacia el revés de la blusa. En la costura de los hombros remetemos la vista y cosemos con una puntadas a mano.
Hola mis buenos amigos y seguidores. hoy les presento un modelo sugerido por uno de ustedes desde Instagram. Un elegante vestido midi irre...
El Bordado y sus puntadas básicas. Las puntadas son las mismas para bordado con lana , hilo o cintas, lo que difiere es el material, la técnica es la misma.
Sew an airy cover-up for the beach by converting a simple T-shirt pattern into a summertime cover-up.
Learn everything you need to know to finish your t-shirts and other knit garments with a flat, professional looking t shirt neckline.
I am making a billion {8} knit pajama tops for Christmas gifts this year, and I have gone from feeling intimidated by neckbands, to feeling pretty comfortable with them. I thought I would share my …
I love neat ways to finish raw edges! Learn three different ways to finish a neckline facing that will help you sew the most beautiful facings every time!
How to create all-in-one facings! A tutorial for a clean, professional, top-stitching-free bodice finish!
Bom dia fiorellini, tudo bem ?? um tutorial super útil para nos costureiras principiantes. se você gostou compartilhe. baci ...
Learn how to fix your jeans so they don't gap or sag (or show crack when you sit down!). Easy sewing tutorial. How to take in or make the waistband smaller.
Stay stitching happens right at the beginning of the process of producing a fine garment. Learn how to sew stay stitch step by step and why.
Learn these six common stitches and you can apply them to a myriad of projects.
Facings are a great way to finish a neckline or armhole (bias binding is another way -- see my 3 bias binding tutorials here!). I like to have beautiful facings...
add lace to the hem of a shirt for a classy look
Sind euch die normalen Shirt-Halsausschnitte zu langweilig? Ich zeige euch, wie ihr eine schicke Knopfleiste in ein Shirt nähen könnt. Das ganze Schritt-für-Schritt erklärt in einer Nähanleitung. Das ganze könnt ihr sogar nachträglich in ein fertiges Shirt einarbeiten.
See how to shorten a zipper and how to make zipper tabs to prettify all your zipper pouches - the easy way!
It's easy to transform your crew neck T-shirt into a more flattering V-neck shirt in a few simple steps. You don't even need to add any additional fabric!
Description du produit T-shirt technique unisexe à manches courtes. Oeil d'oiseau. 100 % polyester. 130 g/m². Manche raglan Encolure ronde dans le même tissu avec recouvrement de couture intérieure renforcée pour éviter toute déformation. Tissu technique respirant, facile à laver et à séchage rapide Excellents résultats aux tests contre la création de boulochage Coutures décoratives sur la demi-manche Coupe régulière Composition : oeil d'oiseau. Grammage : 130 g/m²
No Knots! I have a few pet peeves about sewing but my biggest one is tying knots. I have that little bitty sense of dread everytime I have to do it - partly because I can't see up close as well as I used to and partly that I like to make several knots and I hate the angst I have over trying to match them up so they're on top of each other. Anyway, here's a nice little technique for handsewing to do away with knots :) #1 double your length of thread/floss and thread the *tails* through the eye of the needle; this leaves a loop at the other end of your thread #2 starting from the back of your fabric, bring the needle up through the fabric to the front side but do not pull all the way through - leave the loop of your thread on the backside #3 push the needle through to the backside, leaving a small space between your original stitch and this new one #4 *this is a picture of the backside* after pulling the thread through from the front put your needle through the loop on the back #5 *this is a picture of the backside* now pull your thread firmly and you are ready to begin stitching! No Tails! One of my other pet peeves? Little thread tails poking up through your work ;) I use this technique on my softies/stuffies/stuffed toys. #1 okay, you've finished sewing up your seams and you've created a knot on the outside of your work #2 with the tail still attached, reinsert your needle as close as possible to your last stitch and then bring your needle up as far as possible from that stitch (basically the length of the needle but you can scrunch your fabric up on the needle so it will go further) #3 it should look something like this #4 now pulling the thread taut, scrunch the fabric up against your last stitch, then snip the thread close to the fabric and let go #5 voila! no peek-a-boo tails! I hope this helps some of you and my directions are clear enough. I'll permalink it in a side column for future reference.
UPDATE: I've added a post about drafting a facing for this cowl neck here. My tutorial on drafting a high cowl neck top has had a lot of pageviews in the last week (this always makes me happy). So at the request of at least one reader (see? that's all it takes with me!), I'll show you how to draft a cowl neck top starting with a pattern that has a dart. This will produce a deeper cowl neck like this one: I started with Silhouettes' Pattern #195 as I have already made alterations to the pattern for a good fit (changed shoulder slope, took in waist/hip as they are smaller size than my shoulders). It has a French dart, but these instructions should work regardless of where you dart is placed. And I need to give a big thank you to Peggy Sagers for her help in figuring out how to draft this pattern (from Silhouettes). I took a couple of classes with her at the sewing conference I went to recently (Original Sewing and Quilting Expo) and she encouraged people to contact her with questions. So when I was trying to figure out what to do with the dart, I emailed her. Within a couple of hours I got a very helpful response. And this was on a Sunday. Materials *1 - 1.5 yards of drapey fabric with stretch (jersey, knit, stretch charmeuse, maybe even stretch poplin) *Tracing paper (I use Bienfang Canary Sketching and Tracing Paper, the 50 yard/24" roll) *Clear ruler *Top/bodice pattern with a dart Step 1: Move dart to neckline. Trace your orginal pattern onto another sheet of tracing paper as you'll need to do a lot of cutting. To move the dart to the neckline, draw a straight line from the dart point to the center front neckline. Now cut along this line until you are about 1/8" away from the dart point (this will be your "hinge"). Now close and tape the orginal dart which will cause the pattern to spread at the new dart point. It should look like this: All right! Step 1 is done. You have moved a dart! Step 2: Cut & spread neckline Draw a curved line under the neckline, 1.5 inches down from the original. Cut along this line until you are about 1/8 inch from the shoulder line. Draw two lines that meet at a right angle on a new sheet of paper. Place your cut pattern piece along the top line on this piece of paper. Spread the neckline so that both points touch the top line. Angle the remaining bodice so that the bottom center front corner touches the side line. Tape into place. If that sounds confusing, it isn't - I think it's just easier to understand with a picture: Smooth out the angle created at the shoulder line: (Please ignore the second layer of pattern - that was my first try and it wasn't correct so I just taped take 2 over the top.) Step 2, check! Step 3: Turn half pattern into full pattern You need to cut on a bias for this design, so you will need a full instead of a half pattern. Take a big piece of tracing paper and draw a T with lines meeting a right angles. Trace your half cowl neck pattern onto one side of the T and then flip and trace it onto the other. It should look like this when you are done: I know this looks like something that would never fit a human body, but trust me, it will work! And please ignore the wide band in the middle - I had to tape two pieces of tracing paper together to get one that was big enough. Good work - the hard parts are all done! Step 4: Place and cut your fabric Spread out your fabric. Place the front pattern piece on the bias and the back pattern piece on the straight grain. It will look like this: Cut and sew the top as you would normally. You can serge the edges, turn them under by 1/4" and topstitched them into place or leave them just serged for an edgier look You can add any kind of sleeve or even a hem band. This top will fit and look great. Devon calls this my sexy top and looks suspicious when I wear it out with friends!
Me encanta escribir sobre estos temas,de todas las facetas de hacer una misma , personalmente lo que más disfruto es customizando / personalizando ropa o accesorios con diferentes técnicas para renovar o reciclar ropa usada ,
