How to blend colors in needlepainting effortlessly and... do you really always need the perfect smooth color blending?
Securing thread on the backside can't be avoided in hand embroidery. These tips will help you to end embroidery stitches in a safe way.
This topic is something I've wanted to cover for a while now. It is especially beneficial for beginner embroiderers who are currently exploring long and short stitching and needlepainting. So, today's topic is actually not just “using long and short stitch as a filler”. I mean, we all know that it can be used as one, right? And we all know the main “how's” of using it as a filler: outline the shape and fill with long and short stitches. In fact, the main point that I wanted to speak about today is using long and short stitching to fill a curvy/wavy shape. Or, in other words, a shape where the direction of your stitches has to change slightly. This wording, however, is a bit too heavy for a headline and I just don't know how to phrase it better, haha. Anyway. Why is this topic important? The main problem here is that long and short stitching consists of straight stitches. And one of the characteristics of stitches is that you can't really bend or curl them. Most of the time, it is a straight line between point A and point B that we use in a lot of various ways. It is not a brush stroke that you can lay in any curvy or wavy way you want. So how can you use these straight stitches to not only fill a shape but keep the “flow” of that shape? Actually, the main trick here is the same as with stem stitch. If you go to the Stem StitchCrash Course and take a look at the last point, you will see there what I said about using it for curves. Stem stitch is a straight line, so that's why the secret is the same. Make your stitches shorter! You can start with guiding stitches, as usual, keeping their direction aligned with the shape's outline. After filling the empty space between the stitches, you can start with the second row of stitches. Now, if I'm completely honest, I lose the sense of which stitch is short and which one is long, quite soon after that. So I just vary the length of my stitches and vary the place where they come out from the previous row. If one stitch started lower, I start the other stitch higher, and so on. This is the longest that I allow myself to make the stitches in such cases. The shape didn't reach the main curve yet and is still pretty straight, so I can slack off a little bit and make the stitches longer. Also, don't forget to keep your stitching dense. Currently, there are definitely more stitches here than there were at the beginning point. As you reach the curve, make your stitches shorter. Look carefully at my stitches here and imagine that they are continued longer and longer. If you do that, you will realize that they actually would bump into the outline. That's why we make them shorter. The other rows of stitches will soften the “straightness” and will create an illusion of bending stitches. We are on a finishing line here. The shape is narrowing down and the number of stitches we use to fill it at this part is decreasing, but we still need to maintain the same density. And so, this is the final result. By the way, this is a new design I'm currently working on! It is going to feature a lot of long and short stitch and color blending so it is going to be a GREAT practice for you! :) Hope this post was helpful! Check out the other Needlepainting tips to master it better :)
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7 ways to make a ruffle, ruffles, 7 ways to make ruffles, ruffle tutorial, how to make a ruffle, making ruffles, ruffle making
It's that time of year when velvet starts making its triumphant comeback with holiday dresses for girls of all ages. Get tips from the pros who can sew it best.
First things first, before you dive into your embroidery project, I’d like to show you how you can start and finish your embroidery thread to secure it. Traditionally using knots to start and finish your embroidery thread is a big no-no. And there are several reasons for this. Firstly the knot can show through your
Punch Needle Instructions for beginners The trend in embroidery: Punch needle. This craft is easy to learn. It gives quick results and makes stunning textile art. In this tutorial we explain the basics you need to know about Punch Needle. We share our recommendations for punch needle materials. You will also find step by step
Super Easy One-Piece Rectangle Wrap Top Free Sewing Patterns
Today I'll show you how to stitch a lazy daisy - perfect for making teardrop shapes. Of course they make terrific daisies - like in this robot pattern. I also used a single lazy daisy stitch for the glowing red light at the tip of his antenna. :-) I also used lots of them in
Learn how to make patterns that are reusable and will last longer than a traditional paper pattern. Get tips on how to trace and transfer pattern marks.
My default stitch for when I need to fill an area in an embroidery pattern is satin stitch but I don’t particularly enjoy stitching it so I’ve been enjoying trying out a range of different filling stitches.
For those of you having issues with floating fabrics when you are doing machine embroidery, this handy article from Sewing Machine Fun can help you out. With five tips to help you secure your fabri…
Learn how to create embroidery designs that you can easily transfer to stencils or fabric and start stitching your next project!
How to darn socks and knitwear
Puffy Letters are a fun embellishment for a sweet pillow. Learn how to use Sulky Puffy Foam to create dimension with letters that pop!
Learn how to easily do an embroidery pattern transfer on light fabrics, which pens and other tools you can use and which methods I like the best!
Sashiko Stitch Instructions for beginners A trend in embroidery: Sashiko stitching and visible mending. This ancient Japanese craft is easy to learn. It gives quick results and makes stunning textile pieces. In this tutorial we explain the basics you need to know about Sashiko stitching. We share our recommendations for Sashiko materials. You will also
Summer's over and it's back to school time, which means it's also back to sewing school time! (Did you know that I have a FREE beginner's sewing course?) Last week I mentioned that I have a new free pattern for a pencil-shaped pencil case to share with you (update: here's the info on the pencil
SewArt is an inexpenive, yet powerful embroidery digitizing software. It's easy to use SewArt to convert a JPG to an embroidery file.
No tracing!! See the easiest way for how to transfer embroidery patterns without any tracing. Print, stitch, wash away - click through to see it in action.
Learn how to darn a sweater easily, all you need is a needle, yarn and an embroidery hoop! Darning a sweater is a slow relaxing process, not a chore to be rushed! Imagine the joy
The ladder stitch (slip stitch) is an important technique to create invisible stitch closures. Learn this stitch step by step for beginners.
This sewing basic tutorial will teach you how to sew a gathering stitch for perfect ruffles every time.
Serger tension can be tricky for the beginner sewist. But with a little bit of clarity, you’ll know exactly how to turn those dials or knobs to achieve the perfect tension for all of your sewing projects.
Have you been wanting to learn how to do punch needle embroidery? In this Punch Needle for Beginners Tutorial, you'll learn everything you need to know to get started with punch needle today!
YARN TYPE The yarn terms vary from location to location. I am usually referring to Australia yarn ply in this blog unless stated otherwise. Here’s a yarn conversion chart (credits to Wool War…
If you want to sew a sleeveless dress or blouse, you'll want to know how to sew an all-in-one facing. Learn two methods in this video.
Learn how to sew the blanket stitch including all of those important steps like, how to use the blanket stitch around corners and how to neatly change thread during the blanket stitch!
Sashiko Stitch Instructions for beginners A trend in embroidery: Sashiko stitching and visible mending. This ancient Japanese craft is easy to learn. It gives quick results and makes stunning textile pieces. In this tutorial we explain the basics you need to know about Sashiko stitching. We share our recommendations for Sashiko materials. You will also
If you have ever gone shopping for interfacing or stabilizer, you know that there are a whirlwind of options! It can be daunting to know which one(s) you need to buy if you don't know exactly what you're looking for! But shopping for these products is not quite as complex as it seems and with a little info today I'm sure we can make your experience a lot better! I actually enjoy shopping for it now that I know what I'm looking for. Image Source First let's talk about the difference between interfacing and stabilizer. For the most part, interfacing is ironed and/or sewn into the garment permanently to give it stability and structure (such as around buttonholes and collars). Stabilizers, on the other hand, are usually used temporarily to give structure underneath (such as with embroidering designs) and then after sewing they are torn out or removed by washing. There are some exceptions but that is generally the case. The best way to know whether you want interfacing or stabilizer is to buy what the pattern calls for! If it tells you to buy interfacing, then you should buy interfacing. If it tells you to buy stabilizer then you should buy stabilizer. You *can* substitute them for each other but you won't get the same results. Many of our CKC patterns call for "interfacing" without specifying which type. That is because it is often up to you! If your child likes a stiffer collar, you can use a heavier interfacing. If they like a softer collar, you can use a lighter interfacing. For me, it just depends on how much structure I want the interfacing to add. I like to stock up on the packages above because they are easy to find (Walmart, etc.) and the packages are clearly marked with their type, weight, and best uses. This brand suggests the following: Light: For Dresses and Blouses Medium: For shirts, collars, and button holes Heavy: For Jackets & Waistbands That's pretty straight-forward info! If you want to buy larger sheets though, you can by interfacing and stabilizer by-the-yard at most fabric stores. It generally costs less that way too. I do strongly recommend that you know what you're looking for before you get to the store! See if the pattern specifies exactly what you need and if it doesn't, have an idea of what you want before you go. Ask yourself these questions: Does it need to be fusible on one side, both sides, or neither? Do I want it to be light, medium, or heavy? Does it need to be white or black? Are there any other special features it needs to have? You want to at least jot down the answers for when you get to the store, but I also like to use them to look up the exact number online before I go! Here are some of the kinds I use most often, straight from Pellon's website: 72F Peltex Two-Sided Fusible Extra Firm Stabilizer: I use this for a lot of craft projects such as our free Reversible Fabric Crown, free Tablet Cover, and the brim on Christopher's Newsboy Cap. (They all say it right in the pattern.) Available for purchase here. 987F Fusible Fleece: This is fusible on one side (not both) and adds softness and a little bulk and stability to many of our free patterns on the blog, such as the Reversible Easter Basket. It can come in higher lofts too so don't be afraid to browse the website (or the store) for the thickness you want. Available for purchase here. 931TD Fusible Midweight: This is just a standard fusible medium-weight interfacing for collars etc, such as the one that I mentioned farther up that I buy in the small packages. Available for purchase here. 360 E-Z Stitch Stabilizer: I use tear-away stabilizer when adding decorative stitching or applique to knit fabrics such as the stripe on Michael's muscle tee. It helps get the stitching on nicely without puckers and then it tears right off like magic. Available for purchase here. Those are just a few options, but they are the ones I use most often. Don't be afraid to use the search box on Pellon's website -- that's what I do! (If you don't want to look it up and you're feeling adventurous you can ask for help in-store or browse the tags once you get there, but you could be there for awhile.) One last thing! The very first time I went to buy interfacing by-the-yard I was afraid that I wouldn't remember what kind I bought or how to use it. But if you look at the photo above, there is a label just like it which is folded up in the full length of the bolt, so every cut you get will provide you with a label to store with your interfacing. I like to pin my label on before rolling up so I don't take the chance of getting them mixed up! So there you go! That is really all you need to know about buying interfacing and stabilizer! Now that you're a little more familiar with the types, you can be excited (not scared) to go shopping for it and try out all kinds of new projects! Let's Create! ~ Kristen
You know how it’s always about the details. When sewing with knits, the details really matter. Learn about those details and why they they make a difference.
Basic Stitches Britannica Online Encyclopedia Dressmaking is a craft of making dresses. It is the basis and the start of the fashion world. When you make dresses, you will be called a dressmaker or historically, modiste. Learning the basics of...
How to do a ladder stitch (also know as an invisible stitch or hidden stitch) step by step video tutorial. This tutorial is perfect for beginners!
Learn how to make a gathered ruffle with this step-by-step tutorial including video.
How to tie a knot in thread using a quilters knot video tutorial and photo tutorial! (Hi! Want more sewing how to tutorials just like this? Then don’t forget to check out my other sewing how to tutorials or my free easy sewing projects!) This tutorial will be showing you how to tie a knot […]
