Sewing knits and stretchy fabric beautifully is actually very easy, and this can all be done on a sewing machine. No serger required.
Sewing with knits can be a daunting experience for someone who is new to them, but it doesn't have to be. As someone who took the plunge as a seamstress awhile ago, I recently acquired a new appreciation for working with knits as a designer. Knowledge is key, so before my first knit pattern is released this week, I wanted to share a little bit about my experience of designing a knit pattern. There is a lot to consider when sewing with knits: types of knits, sergers vs. sewing machines, types of needles, stretch percentage, stretch recovery, cutting knit fabric, etc. I'm going to be focusing mostly on stretch percentage and recovery and will provide links to some great resources that cover the other topics. To be honest, when I've sewn with knits in the past, I never paid too much attention to stretch percentage and recovery, I just sewed with fabrics that I liked. The results were overall quite satisfying, although there were a few patterns that caused me to think "Oooo, the size is a bit off on this one.". Never before did I have the eye opening experience that I had last week when I sewed two samples of the same pattern. A very wonderful group of testers had been sewing up my Stellar's Vest pattern, and sending me their results. Through no fault of their own, the results came back ranging from perfect sizing, to very large. How was this happening, when they were using the same pattern and even the same size? I adjusted the sizes in the pattern, and had another set of testers do a second round of testing. The results were better, but still inconsistent. I figured I had better sew up a couple more samples of my own. I sewed Anja a size three Stellar's Vest in the A-line version with some adorable fabric from L'Oiseau called Deerly Beloved. (Side note - I highly recommend everything at L'Oiseau. The quality and service is absolutely impeccable.) Ok, back to my experience. The vest turned out great…the fit was perfect in the chest, armholes were good, everything about it was comfortable and cute. She wore it immediately and wouldn't take it off until bedtime. The next day, we did a little mother-daughter local fabric shopping (something that is getting more and more fun now that she enjoys selecting her own fabric!). She chose some pretty Michael Miller Blossoms 100% cotton knit. It was a great choice as I wanted something that would match nicely with Tobias' vest. I took the fabric home, pre-washed it (a must with knits), and sewed up another Stellar's Vest during nap time using exactly the SAME pattern pieces I used the day before. Nothing changed other than the fabric. Here was the result: What changed? Did my daughter mysteriously shrink from one day to the next? HA, of course, not! :) But the second garment is a full two sizes too big! This is when I realized the importance of not 'winging' the use of my knit fabric. I should've known better, I admit it. But here's the positive that comes out of this experience: I'm hoping to prevent you from making my mistake! The first fabric had a stretch percentage of over 50% and excellent recovery, while the second, around 25% with good recovery. How can you tell with your fabrics? Cut a 4"X4"(10cmX10cm) piece of fabric, fold it perpendicular with the grain line. Download and print this stretch percentage guide with tips for sewing with knits, hold the fabric firmly at zero, and stretch it as far as you can. Alternatively, you can use a ruler using the same principle. Either way, just make sure you do this. It makes a world of difference! DOWNLOAD HERE So now that you know how to determine the stretch percentage, how do you use this valuable information? Well, always read your patterns carefully and only use the fabric type and stretch percentage recommended by the designer. If the pattern does not specify, contact the designer and ask, if possible. Or, don't use your best fabric the first time around. You can size up or down depending on the result of your first garment. Stretch recovery is also very important to consider when sewing with knits. When you stretch your fabric, does it return to its original size and shape? Or is it now a little wider than it was before? You definitely want to use fabric that has a very good recovery. This recovery corresponds with the quality of the fabric, after all, who wants to wear a garment that becomes wider each time it's worn? I also prefer my knit fabrics to have some weight and/or a bit of lycra to give them that extra bit of recovery and avoid flimsy, lightweight or sheer knits. Of course, this all depends on the pattern you are using, so keep that in mind as well. In the photos below, it's clear to see which fabric has better recovery. The top one basically stayed the same width after it was stretched, while the second one returned to its original size. You can also feel a big difference between the two; the top one has a slightly, rough texture, and the bottom is soft and smooth. What I failed to do for my testers, was specify the stretch percentage and recovery needed to achieve the best results with my pattern. Incidentally, the fabrics of all my samples had a stretch percentage 50% or more and very good to excellent recovery until the final floral one. So, I think a logical explanation is that stretch percentage and recovery played a pretty major part in the varied results (especially after the first round of testing). Lesson learned! Here are some other tips I find useful to keep in mind when sewing with knits: Use a stretch or ballpoint needle. The rounded tip passes easily between the knit threads by separating them. Press often. When you sew a seam, and it looks wavy, giving it a good press will more than likely fix the problem. Do not pull or stretch the fabric as you sew. This can create those very wavy seams. There is a time and place for stretching, such as when attaching bindings. Follow the directions in your pattern carefully. Want to read more about using knits? Here are some great resources to help you have a positive experience when sewing with knits: Sewing With Knits (Kitschy Coo) Sewing With Knit Fabrics (sew mccool) Sewing With Jersey 101 (Prudent Baby) Tips for Sewing With Knit Fabrics (Oliver + S) Knits 101 (Shwin & Shwin) Working With Stretch and Knit Fabric (My Pattern Designer) Cutting Knit Fabric (Mad Mim) Ask Dana - No Fear. How to Sew with KNIT Fabrics (Made) I'm so glad to have had this experience so I can pass on what I've learned. Knits can be so fun to work with and great for children's clothing because they can be so comfortable and versatile, but it really helps to know how to use them properly. I can't stress enough how important it is to read through your patterns so you can achieve the results the designer intends for you to have. Never again will I blindly use knit fabric simply on account of the colour or pattern. It's worth the time to test out the fabric first so that you can be happier with the results. If you have any tips or tricks that help you have success with knits, please leave a comment and let us know. Thanks!
Sewing with knit fabric doesn't have to be difficult. That's why I am excited to bring you this post all about how to sew with knit fabric!
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Using iron-on fusible stretch interfacing for knit fabrics is a great way to add structure and stability to your knit garments. Here is a guide to the most common types and how to use them.
Sewing knits is really fast, satisfying & best of all has minimal ironing! Best tips on how to sew stretch fabric without a serger.
Wooly nylon thread is a specially designed stretch thread that is made from 100% nylon to use for sewing mostly very stretchy fabrics like spandex and other 4-way stretch knit fabrics. Wooly nylon thread is known not only for its high elasticity but also for its softness, durability, vibrant shine, and strength. The thread is also very flexible and has a good recovery. It's great for swimwear, athletic wear, activewear, lingerie and garments that need a little extra stretch.
Are you tired of your hems looking wavy or stretched out on knit fabric? Our video offers some tips and tricks so your knit garments turn out looking their best.
Which stitch is best for sewing jersey knits? Here you’ll learn about the types of stitches for stretch knits on a regular sewing machine.
Learn all about Eloflex thread by Coats. It's a stretch thread for knit fabric sewing projects, but it has strength and durability.
All about knit fabric: what it is, types of materials, how to cut and sew it. What machines to use and examples of projects where knit fabric is used.
Do not fear to sew stretchy materials. Here is a great tip for sewing stable hems on stretchy knits. It is easier than you think.
This simple sewing pattern with video sew along will walk you through how to complete this wide leg pants pattern for beginner sewists...
Knit fabric can be intimidating to sew with, especially if you're used to sewing with woven fabrics. Personally, it took me a little while to get the hang of sewing with stretch knits, but with
How to sew knit neckband and knit binding - 3 options to finish your knit neckline, including photo tutorial and video tutorial
You know how it’s always about the details. When sewing with knits, the details really matter. Learn about those details and why they they make a difference.
Here is my secret trick on how to sew knit fabric without puckering or stretching without a serger machine. Get perfect stitches every single time.
What is stretch percentage of knit fabrics? Stretch percentage is the amount of stretching of knit fabrics. Knowing the stretch percentage of knit fabrics is essential for pattern drafting for knits, as well as sewing with knit patterns. You can find the skill of measuring the stretch percentage very useful when drafting your own patterns,
Learn about Sewing Knits Fabrics. Here you'll learn how to sew stretch fabrics, with and without a serger. Become a knit fabric expert.
Stretchy fabric is a little different to work with than woven fabric. The fact that it is elastic means that we need to pay special attention to the types of stitches we can use. What is the best stitch for stretchy fabric? The best stitch for stretchy fabric is a zigzag stitch. We need a […]
Fashion inspiration, sewing advice, and pattern reviews for the modern sewists. Stitchin Camaro is a blog based around sewing, embroidery, screenprinting, quilting, and more at-home crafts. % sewing tips - How to hem stretchy fabric without a serger
Here’s the Girls Bralette FREE sewing pattern in sizes 2 to 14 from the awesome designer Boo! Designs. The designer says that whether you use the Girls Bralette as a training bra, activewear, or swim top, you won’t be able to stop making just one of these cute little racerback crop tops! The designer […]
How to sew knit neckband and knit binding - 3 options to finish your knit neckline, including photo tutorial and video tutorial
How To Sew Stretch Fabric. Tips how to sew stretchy fabric. Sewing stretchy fabric & sewing on stretch fabric need not be hard. See my guide.
Whether it be a bias neckline or a hem, you can’t overlook the clean look of a pretty straight stitch. And with knit fabrics, a straight stitch is usually unpractical. That is until you get yourself some stretch thread. Let's learn all about it!
How do you know if your fabric is suitable for the pattern you want to sew? Well, first of all you need to read the pattern description to see what kind of fabrics it's intended for, for example woven fabrics (without stretch) or knit fabrics (with stretch). Many of the patterns in our collection are designed for knit fabrics, such as jersey (cotton/lycra) or college / french terry. They are comfortable to wear and easy to sew. Knit fabrics can have different amounts of stretch. Most of our patterns are designed for fabrics with 30-40% stretch, but some for less, and some for more. All our patterns include a stretch guide, to help you evaluate your fabric and see if it will be suitable for the pattern. Note that you can often use a more och less stretchy fabric than the pattern calls for, but it's good to be aware of the stretch percentage so that you know if you might need to size up or down for example. Download the stretch guide here. How to use the stretch guide Place a piece of your fabric against the grey background. Make sure that you get the grainline right (vertical). (Read about grainline here). Then stretch the fabric towards the right. Note how far the fabric stretches without resistance. If it goes to 40% then your fabric has 40% stretch. Don’t overstretch, find the natural stretch. RECOVERY You can also measure the fabric’s recovery by releasing it: if the fabric goes back to its original length (the grey rectangle), then it has 100% recovery, which is very good. A fabric with good recovery is necessary when making fitted garments, such as leggings or a fitted top. If the fabric doesn't recover, the garment will loose its shape.
Knit fabrics can be a bit confusing in the beginning. I hope this quick overview will help you understand the basics! Zoom in on the graphic to see it better..
The best stitches for knit fabrics: sew knits without a serger, with options for knit seams, hemming knits, and seam finishes on knit fabric.
How to hem curves on knits - this trick will help you get smooth hems on stretch fabrics using your regular sewing machine
My usual method of knit neckline binding is different to the standard or more traditional method, so today we'll cover the normal method!
Get started sewing with jersey knit fabrics with these simple instructions. Learn about sewing jersey fabric and sewing knit fabric on your sewing machine.
Let's talk about the stretch stitch. A great stitch to use when sewing with knits on a standard sewing machine. Great for hems and joining seams.
Whenever I do the KNITerviews, I get really geeked about sewing with knits which makes me want to add a few extra posts to help get people started sewing with...
Whether it be a bias neckline or a hem, you can’t overlook the clean look of a pretty straight stitch. And with knit fabrics, a straight stitch is usually unpractical. That is until you get yourself some stretch thread. Let's learn all about it!
This is just a quick little post today about hand stitching! So we know from my topstitching knits tutorial a few weeks ago, that when you're sewing with knits it's very important to use stitches that stretch. It's pretty rare that you'll need to hand stitch a knit fabric as they're a more casual fa
If you are wondering what is a stretch stitch and how to stitch stretch fabric check out my sewing tutorial on stretch stitch on a sewing machine, learn how to do a triple stretch stitch,
This simple sewing pattern with video sew along will walk you through how to complete this wide leg pants pattern for beginner sewists...
Today I'll be showing you my favourite neckline finish for knit fabrics. It's my personal method for sewing knit neckline bindings, and I prefer it to the standard method!
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The advantage of knit fabric is that it stretches. That is its disadvantage too. But that is ok. It is just like most things in life. I love knit tops - there
