Following on from our NEW invisible zipper tutorial, here’s how to attach your zipper to a facing with your sewing machine like a pro! NOTE: This tutorial is demonstrating a side invisible zipper (as used in our Chloe Pant and Libby A-line Skirt patterns)....
EN Summary: In this article I address the invisible zipper, the lining and the waist facings, illustrating the entire process as I go (very picture heavy). At this point all there is left to do is hemming both skirt and lining, and then move on to sewing the matching top. --- PT Sumário: Neste artigo mostro a construção do fecho invisível, o forro e a vista da cintura, pois tirei fotos ao longo de todo o processo (a página pode demorar a carregar pois tem muitas fotos). Para terminar a saia falta apenas fazer a bainha (na saia e no forro). EN: After joining all the skirt panels (which is not an easy task on this fabric, consider yourselves warned), I ended up with four equal leaves with mirrored panel layout. The leaves are stitched together and the zipper opening is closed using long and lose tension stitches (just to be able to press it open; the stitches are removed after pressing and the creases will work as a guide for the zipper stitching line). Once again I followed Els method (click here) but I took photos along the way: --- PT: Depois de juntar os paineis formando 4 godés iguais mas com um layout simétrico (tarefa que não é nada fácil com este tecido escorregadio, considerem-se desde já avisados), os godés são cosidos uns aos outros e a abertura do fecho é cosida também mas com pontos longos e com a tensão do fio da agulha solta (só para conseguirmos passara a costura aberta; depois de retirarmos estes pontos soltos, o vinco formado servirá como guia para posicionarmos as fitas do fecho de correr). Uma vez mais usei o método da Els (clicar aqui), mas tirei fotos ao longo do processo: EN: At this point we can see how the skirt looks like and check the length and the hem even distance to the floor: --- PT: Nesta fase podemos ter uma imagem aproximada de como a saia vai ficar e também verificar o seu comprimento e se a bainha fica paralela ao chão: EN: Next I stitch the side seams on the facings and all the lining seams (leaving the zipper opening unstitched); I don’t attach the lining to the facings just yet, I prefer attaching it after the facing is stitched to the skirt at the waistline. --- PT: A seguir coso as costuras laterais das vistas e uno os godés em forro, deixando a abertura do fecho por coser. Ainda não vou coser o forro às vistas, prefiro fazê-lo depois de coser as vistas à saia. EN: I’m following Els method for facing with an invisible zipper (click here), with a few alterations because I want to sew the lining to the zipper tape by machine in one single step. First I stitch the facing to the waist line but I leave about 2 inches unstitched on each side; also note how I clip the SAs, so the cuts don't overlap: --- PT: Prossigo utilizando o método demonstrado pela Els para coser a vista da cintura com um fecho invisível (clicar aqui), mas com uma alteração: pretendo coser o forro à fita do fecho à máquina, tudo num só passo. Começo por coser as vistas ao cós, deixando cerca de 5cm por coser de cada lado junto à abertura do fecho; notem também como golpeio as margens de maneira a que os golpes não se sobreponham nas margens da saia e nas da vista: EN: Next I understitch the waist seam (pressing the SAs to the facing side): --- PT: Assento a ferro as margens na direção da vista e pesponto, do lado da vista, a 1mm da costura: EN: Now it’s time to stitch the lining to the waist facing, and press (SAs towards the lining). --- PT: Só agora coso o forro às vistas da cintura e assento o forro a ferro (as margens ficam assentes na direção do forro): EN: I proceed with Els method but when it comes to sewing the facing to the zipper tape, I sew the lining to the zipper tape in the same step. The photos below illustrate the whole process: --- PT: Continuo a seguir o método da Els, mas quando chega a altura de coser a vista à fita do fecho, coso o fecho de seguida; as fotos abaixo ilustram todo o processo: EN: Notice how the seams are slanted at the top corner (the one left unstitched); the facing seam is shifted outwards: --- PT: Notem como as costuras estão desencontradas no canto superior do fecho (os 5cm de deixámos por coser servem para isto): a vista está inclinada para fora criando um excesso no lado da saia: EN: This allows for folding back the zipper tape and CB allowances and finally we can stitch the top two inches that were previously left open. Do the same on the other corner, and turn everything to the right side to check if the waistline is even; if it is, go back to the wrong side and cut the corner SAs to an algle before turning to the right side one last time. --- PT: Esta folga permite dobrar o canto do fecho para trás, para a vista e finalmente podemos coser o topo que tínhamos deixado por coser. Repete-se do outro lado do fecho e gira-se tudo para o direito para verificar se a linha da cintura ficou nivelada. Se sim, podemos girar de novo para o avesso, golpear o canto em viés e girar para o direito uma última vez. EN: The process is finished; check below to see how perfect it looks (and the photos were taken before the final press) and lastly I stitched a small flat button to secure the closure at the waist. Thank you all for visiting! --- PT: E terminamos cosendo um botão para reforçar o fecho na cintura. Vejam nas fotos o resultado final e notem como ficou perfeito (as fotos foram tiradas antes mesmo da última passagem a ferro!). Muito obrigada a todos por aparecerem!
In today's video, I'm going to be showing you how to understitch. Understitching is a technique that is most often used when sewing woven fabric garments but occasionally with knit fabrics as well. It's mostly used when you are sewing a facing, a lining or an in-seam pocket. The purpose of understit
A couple of days ago, I clicked through to a tutorial about all-in-one facings on Crafterhours. Although I knew how I line a bodice, I'm always interested in how other people do things. And it turns out we do it differently! After a very pleasant exchange of emails and ideas, I was encouraged to share my way of doing it so here we go... By fully lining a bodice, not only is it a neater finish and a way of hiding your seams but it's possible to encorporate it a fully reversible dress. Personally, I find it quicker than facings or bindings. This method of works if your back piece has a centre seam that makes it two pieces (so you can put in a zipper or a slit or a button placket). If you have a single front and back piece, this is not the way for you... You will have a front bodice and two back bodice pieces, and identical pieces cut out of your lining. Sew the shoulder seams like so: Repeat for lining pieces. Right sides facing, place the shell bodice on top of the lining bodice, match up all the edges and pin in place. Sew them together along the neck curve and armhole curve. In this picture, I am making a slit with a button so I've also sewn partially down the centre back seam. Don't do this if you're not making a slit! Clip into the seam allowances around the neck and arm curves so they can be pressed flatter. Push each side of the bodice right side out through the front bottom hole. Manipulate with your fingers so all seams lie flat and corners are sharp. Press into position with the iron. Bring one of your back pieces down onto the front piece, matching up the four raw edges from the armpit down to where the bodice ends. It should be a sandwich of shell, lining, lining, shell. Right sides facing, pinch the two bottom corners of lining together, leaving the two shell pieces hanging loose (I've flipped a shell piece up so you can see better). Pull the shell corners up (rigth sides facing) and pin along both raw edges, up and over the seam line where the fabric changes (pic on right below). Right sides facing, you have now pinned together lining to lining, shell to shell. Stitch along this edge. While you are stitching, pull and manipulate the fabric so it is a straight line. Clip into seam allowance where the two fabrics meet, and then flip it open again and your side seam is created. Press in place. Repeat this process for the other side seams of the bodice, and you will have this: If you're doing a slit and button closure (as I am in these pictures), repeat the same process as you did to the side seams to the centre back seam.You're done! Now you have a nice and neat fully lined bodice. Pin It Tweet
If you want to sew a sleeveless dress or blouse, you'll want to know how to sew an all-in-one facing. Learn two methods in this video.
NEW to Tessuti Sydney stores are sewing technique classes – these classes run for 2 hours and are aimed to help sewers fine tune their existing sewing skills and to help learn how to achieve a better finish on garments, by teaching...
Some of y’all requested to see my invisible zipper method, so here it is! Just a head’s up – this is a fairly picture-intensive post. Sorry! You have been warned! Invisible zipper…
Buy the V1789 trousers sewing pattern from Vogue. It’s perfect for an advanced beginner/intermediate dressmaker. Misses’ pants, high waisted, very loose-fitting through hip, have waist facings with boning, pleats, side seam pockets, invisible back zip. B: hem band. This sewing pattern is available to buy in the following format: – PAPER (next working day dispatch on orders and FREE UK delivery over £50) Suggested fabrics: Linen, Twill, Broadcloth, Sateen. Interfacing: fusible. Lining: Lining Fabric. Note: Extra fabric maybe needed to match plaids, stripes, one-way design fabrics or for shrinkage. Sizing: B5 (8-10-12-14-16), F5 (16-18-20-22-24), approx. UK sizes B5 (6 – 12), F5 (12 – 20/22). based on our standardised size chart. Please also check the designer's size chart and finished garment measurements. Notions: Thread. One 11" (28 cm) Invisible Zipper, 2 yds (1.9 m) of 3/8" (1 cm) Boning(Feather Weight) If you’re looking for more maker inspiration, check out the latest sewing pattern reviews from the sewing community. We also have a sewing blog to keep you up to date with all the news from the world of sewing. Help using commercial sewing patterns:
2019 : This post describes the classic method. There’s now a much easier method, using a zipper at least 2-3″ longer than the opening, a haemostat or tweezers, and a conventional zipper foot.…
Misses' trousersTRIUERSTROUSERS, high waisted, very loose-fitting through hip, have waist facings with boning, pleats, side seam pockets, invisible back zip. B: hem band.
8.5 oz./yd² (US) 14.1 oz./L yd (CA), 80/20 cotton/polyester blend fleece with 100% cotton face, 20 singles Standard fit Jersey lined hood Split stitch double needle sewing on all seams Twill neck tape 1x1 ribbing at cuffs & waistband
Today, I’ll demonstrate how to sew the lining into the Cambie Dress. This part of the sewing instructions makes a lot more sense when you’re actually doing it yourself. The next best thing? Watching someone else do it first! So I’ll do it and show you how it’s done, with plenty of pictures and explanations. …
Video Tutorial:
I wanted to be able to take a hand sewing project with me so I can pull it out and work on wherever and whenever I can. I could have stuck it in a boring bag, but that just wasn’t going to do it justice. Check out my windowed zip bag!
By IN THE FOLDS, The Rushcutter Dress is a paper sewing pattern. Garment Details: The Rushcutter dress is a knee-length, loose fitting A-line dress, designed for woven fabrics. With two style variations, The Rushcutter dress is the perfect multi-season all-rounder. Included in the pattern is an optional waist sash, tha
Buy the Floreat Dress and Top sewing pattern from Megan Nielsen. Floreat is an asymmetrical dress or blouse that can be made from woven or knit fabrics. The pattern features clean lines, woven and knit facing options, in-seam pockets and multiple sleeve and hem lengths. View A is a dress with long sleeves and waist ties. View B is a blouse with long sleeves. View C is a cropped blouse with short sleeves. View D is a sleeveless dress or blouse. This sewing pattern is available to buy in the following format: - PAPER (next working day dispatch on orders and FREE UK delivery over £50) Suggested fabrics: Light to medium weight dress or shirting fabrics such as cotton, linen, chambray, rayon, silk, etc. Knit fabrics may be used with the bonus knit options. Fabric requirements: View A: 150 cm (60") wide fabric: 2.6 - 2.9 m (2 7/8 - 3 1/8 yd) // 115 cm (45") wide fabric (sizes 0-14 only): 3.6 - 3.9 m (3 7/8 - 4 1/4 yd). View B: 150 cm (60") wide fabric: 1.3 - 1.4 m (1 3/8 - 1 1/2 yd) // 115 cm (45") wide fabric: 1.8 - 2 m (2 - 2 1/8 yd). View C: 150 cm (60") wide fabric: 1 m (1 1/8 yd) // 115 cm (45") wide fabric: 1.2 - 1.3 m (1 1/4 - 1 3/8 yd). View D: 150 cm (60") wide fabric: 2.3 - 2.6 m (2 1/2 - 2 7/8 yd) // 115 cm (45") wide fabric (sizes 0-14 only): 2.6 - 2.7 m (2 7/8 - 3 yd). Sizing: 0 – 20 (approx. UK 6 – 20, based on our standardised size chart). Please also check the designer’s size chart and finished garment measurements. Notions: Lightweight fusible interfacing; 20-30 cm (8"-12") invisible zipper (View A); hook and eye (Views B, C, D). Note: This pattern is available in an expanded size range on the designer’s website (PDF only). If you're looking for more maker inspiration, check out the latest sewing pattern reviews from the sewing community. We also have a sewing blog to keep you up to date with all the news from the world of sewing.
The Rochester Sewing Pattern The Rochester sewing pattern has been designed with simple, understated styling and thoughtful details in mind. An easy to wear style with a relaxed fit and slight A-line shaping, and gathered front neckline. Featuring a deep centre back pleat, curved hem with side split and stitched facing. The elbow length sleeves have a deep stitched hem. VERSION A / The Rochester Top is mid-hip length and great to wear with jeans. VERSION B / The Rochester Dress is knee length with a self-tie belt and in-seam pockets SKILL LEVEL: ADVANCED BEGINNER SIZES UK 8-18 Elasticated and gathered front neckline Elbow length sleeves Curved hem and side split with feature topstitching Centre back pleat In-seam side pockets (dress only) NO ZIP! Easy to shorten or lengthen, with guides on your pattern Unlined SEE PHOTOS FOR SIZE CHART & FABRIC REQUIREMENTS MAVEN1832 - The Rochester in sizes 18-32 is available here. EU CUSTOMERS / To Purchase a PDF Pattern, please use our Etsy Store HERE (pricing may vary depending on location due to digital VAT)
A couple of days ago, I clicked through to a tutorial about all-in-one facings on Crafterhours. Although I knew how I line a bodice, I'm always interested in how other people do things. And it turns out we do it differently! After a very pleasant exchange of emails and ideas, I was encouraged to share my way of doing it so here we go... By fully lining a bodice, not only is it a neater finish and a way of hiding your seams but it's possible to encorporate it a fully reversible dress. Personally, I find it quicker than facings or bindings. This method of works if your back piece has a centre seam that makes it two pieces (so you can put in a zipper or a slit or a button placket). If you have a single front and back piece, this is not the way for you... You will have a front bodice and two back bodice pieces, and identical pieces cut out of your lining. Sew the shoulder seams like so: Repeat for lining pieces. Right sides facing, place the shell bodice on top of the lining bodice, match up all the edges and pin in place. Sew them together along the neck curve and armhole curve. In this picture, I am making a slit with a button so I've also sewn partially down the centre back seam. Don't do this if you're not making a slit! Clip into the seam allowances around the neck and arm curves so they can be pressed flatter. Push each side of the bodice right side out through the front bottom hole. Manipulate with your fingers so all seams lie flat and corners are sharp. Press into position with the iron. Bring one of your back pieces down onto the front piece, matching up the four raw edges from the armpit down to where the bodice ends. It should be a sandwich of shell, lining, lining, shell. Right sides facing, pinch the two bottom corners of lining together, leaving the two shell pieces hanging loose (I've flipped a shell piece up so you can see better). Pull the shell corners up (rigth sides facing) and pin along both raw edges, up and over the seam line where the fabric changes (pic on right below). Right sides facing, you have now pinned together lining to lining, shell to shell. Stitch along this edge. While you are stitching, pull and manipulate the fabric so it is a straight line. Clip into seam allowance where the two fabrics meet, and then flip it open again and your side seam is created. Press in place. Repeat this process for the other side seams of the bodice, and you will have this: If you're doing a slit and button closure (as I am in these pictures), repeat the same process as you did to the side seams to the centre back seam.You're done! Now you have a nice and neat fully lined bodice. Pin It Tweet
Even though my favorite zipper is the invisible zipper, occasionally, I’d venture into other types of zippers for different looks. Today I want to go over how to install a lapped zipper with facings. Many tutorials out there go over the installation of the lapped zippers using different techniques, which are fine and dandy. However, most […]
The Zoe Dress is a semi-fitted shift with beautiful, unusual design lines. It features princess seams at the front and back, which gently sculpt the dress to your body, and a french dart to fit the dress at the bust. With no waist seam, the long princess lines elongate the body to create a flattering silhouette, gently bringing you in at the waist. Darts at the back neckline fit the dress to your shoulders to eliminate gape, and a facing finishes the neckline beautifully. Zoe comes with two sleeve length options – a shorter sleeve, perfect for summer or underneath cardis, and a classic 3/4 length for cooler weather. The dress closes at the centre back with a neat invisible zip, and the front princess seams house everyone’s favourite in-seam pockets. Perfect for work, Zoe is the ultimate outfit-in-one for those days when you need to head out of the door in a hurry. Practical yet chic and stylish, pair her with a blazer for a smart office look, or a chunky necklace and heels for an evening out. See what other people have been making in the Zoe Dress Gallery and on Instagram with the hashtag #soizoedress.
As promised... A lining can add a lot to a bag. In this case, I added a lining made with home decor weight cotton and it added sturdin...
Bodice lined in Radiance silk/cotton blend fabric I've noticed there's some confusion out there about linings--especially what kind to use for summer garments. So I thought I'd share some of my favorites. First, let's discuss the requirements of a lining for a summer garment: breathability, affordability, fabric characteristics, and easy-care are at the top of my list. 1) Breathability: this is the comfort factor of the lining, in my opinion. I can't tolerate anything other than cotton or cotton blends in the bodice of a fitted summer dress. Even silk gets too sticky for me on a hot summer day. 2. Affordability: if you're sewing with a summer cotton for an everyday dress, I'm guessing you don't want the lining fabric to cost more than the garment fabric, right? 3. Fabric Characteristics: Are you sewing with a stretch fabric? Then you'll need a stretch lining. Is your fashion fabric sheer? Then you'll want your lining to provide opacity. (This is not to say that your lining fabric has to be completely opaque, but that it must add up to opacity when layered with your fashion fabric. Sometimes a slightly sheer lining can make a slightly sheer fashion fabric opaque.) 4. Easy-care: I like my summer dresses to be machine-washable and dry-able so my lining needs to meet that criteria as well. With these factors in mind, let's look at some possible linings: 1. Siri. This is a cotton/poly blend that is my go-to lining for summer garments. It's inexpensive, easy to care for, and the low poly content keeps it breathable. It's hard to find, which is why I started carrying it in my shop. I have both lightweight and medium weight, both in black and white. The lightweight is very drapey and airy and feels super soft against the skin. It drapes well with silk fashion fabrics like crepe de chine or chiffon. The medium weight siri has more body, so it works well with more structured garment fabrics like sateen, pique, poplin, quilting cotton, etc. The budget range is $4 to $6.50 a yard. 2. Imperial Cottons: Looking for something like siri but in a specific color? Try an Imperial Cotton. You may have come across fabrics labeled Imperial Batiste and Imperial Broadcloth, often for use in heirloom sewing. They are a 65/35 cotton/poly blend that comes in a rainbow of colors. The batiste is a good lightweight version, while the broadcloth has more body for medium weight fabrics. Here's an online source for batiste and broadcloth. In New York, B&J carries imperial cottons for a good price. The budget range is around $5 a yard. 3. 100% Cotton Voile: If your budget has a bit more room, then Free Spirit's Voile Solids make excellent linings. They wash and drape well. The colors are beautiful and the fabric has a silky smooth feel to it. You can buy them online for around $14 a yard. Here's a good source that carries all the colors and ships quickly. 4. 100% Cotton Batiste or Broadcloth: you can find beautiful pure cotton batistes and broadcloths usually intended for heirloom sewing. They are a bit pricier than blends but make the most sense if you prefer entirely natural fibers. 5. Radiance Cotton/Silk Blends: Another notch up on the fancy scale! This is a cotton and silk blend fabric that is often sold in quilting shops. It has a slippery texture on one side and is opaque. I've lined all sorts of garments with it (including wool skirts) and loved the results. Better for medium weight garments. Fabric.com carries a good selection for $16 yard. Because of the price, I reserve this for special garments. 6. Stretch Cottons: If you use a stretch fashion fabric, you'll want your lining to stretch as well. Stretch linings are hard to find and are usually polyester only, so I recommend looking in the fashion fabric sections. Anything called "stretch poplin" or "stretch shirting" should be a good match. Fabric.com has a bunch of cotton blend stretch poplins for around $6/yard, but I've never used them. Let me know if you have a preferred brand/source! Keep in mind that you don't have to use the same lining fabric in the bodice and skirt of a dress. For my blue and white brocade dress, I used cotton/silk in the bodice (for comfort), and silk crepe de chine in the skirt (for drape and slinkiness). You can choose a more expensive, natural fiber fabric for the bodice and then use a cheaper synthetic for the skirt since it won't be as close to your skin. Or use a medium weight lining for the bodice to provide structure and a lightweight lining for the skirt for easier movement and flow. So many options. I hope this helps a bit. Please share your favorite summer linings too! P.S. A quick shop update (ignore if you're on one of those stash-busting fabric diets I keep hearing about--can't say I've ever tried one of those!). I added a bunch of new stuff recently (and will have more next week). I'm giving you lovely readers a discount this weekend! Enter code HAPPYWEEKEND to get 10% off your entire purchase. Expires on Tuesday, 6/18.
Even though my favorite zipper is the invisible zipper, occasionally, I’d venture into other types of zippers for different looks. Today I want to go over how to install a lapped zipper with facings. Many tutorials out there go over the installation of the lapped zippers using different techniques, which are fine and dandy. However, most […]
Featured: Messenger Bag by Ecolution Originally created for hard-working couriers, the classic Messenger Bag has been in circulation for several decades. Known for its long-lasting rugged durabilit…
Learn How to Sew a Small Lined Zipper Pouch in this beginner friendly sewing tutorial that's all about how to sew a zipper.
This is the 3rd part of the 4-part series regarding the process review of the lapped zipper. The first entry analyed the correct application of a lapped zipper. The 2nd part was the pattern templat…
Following on from my previous post (101: Installing an invisible zip), we still need to finish off the seam at the top of the zip. This is done either with a facing, or a lining.1. Before installin…
A pull on dress or top, the Fernbird is feminine, fun and easy to wear. With bust darts and "grown on" sleeves, the key design features are the deep double frills and scooped rear hem. This is a throw-on-and-look-glam-in-a-second dress, so easily worn with sneakers or heels. SUMMER - Beautifully cool in rayon/viscose the dress and top is professionally finished with a simple neck facing. WINTER - Mid weight knits and woven blended wool suitings. This dress will work with almost any fabric, although it's a good idea to keep drape in mind. We recommend you use a light weight fabric for your winter frills (like contrasting rayon, cotton, chiffons & crepes). PATTERN FEATURES: Deep double frill (fold under so no frill hem) Scooped rear hem line (dress only) for dramatic effect and emphasized design. V Neck and round neck options Loose fitting and designed to sit mid knee (front) and mid calf (rear) - but easily adjustable Sizes NZ/AU 6-22 Share your makes on Instagram & Facebook tagging #FernbirdDress #FernbirdTop and @thesewingrevival FABRIC Please refer to the FABRIC REQUIREMENT CHART as one of the last images on this product listing. You can magnify this image if viewing it on a mobile phone whilst in a fabric store. Light to mid weight fabrics with a good drape. We highly recommended rayon/viscose for this pattern, but tencel, silk, cotton/silk and cotton/poly blends. Have fun contrasting the dress body with the frill fabric. We even had a play with a light weight cotton/metal fabric in contrasting frill which looks great. DIFFICULTY Confident beginner ready for the next step. Easy Intermediate (2/5). No closures (zips or buttons). Skill learnt: Gathering frills. SIZE & FITTING Each purchase comes with 4 sizes (please refer to the last image for size chart and international size comparisons): Small - (NZ/AU/UK 6-8-10-12 | US 2-4-6-8) Pages = 26 Medium - (NZ/AU/UK 10-12-14-16 | US 6-8-10-12) Pages =27 Large - (NZ/AU/UK 14-16-18-20 | US 10-12-14-16) Pages =27 X-Large - (NZ/AU/UK 16-18-20-22 | US 14-16-18) Pages =27 WHAT DO I GET WITH MY PURCHASE? Please note you are purchasing a digital pattern that will be sent directly to your email inbox after payment. You can print this pattern at home on A4 or US letter-sized paper or take it to a print shop for large scale printing (AO size). *You will not receive a hard copy printed pattern.* Instant download available immediately after checkout includes: 1. Instructions 2. PAH Pattern file (PAH=Print at home) For printing in A4 or US Letter on a home printer. Printing at home is the most cost-effective, and sticking your pattern tiles together to make your full size pattern is easy. Further information for printing at home can be found in our Resources section here. 3. AO Pattern file AO is a large scale file designed to be printed at a Print Copy Shop. You cannot print this on your home printer as it is too big. If you choose to use this large file you will pay extra to have it printed but you do not have to stick anything together. You can use the ADOBE LAYERS FEATURE to open the PAH pattern file and print only the size you need (and eliminate the "noise" of the unwanted sizes). You can also use the URL and bookmark links within the file to quickly access information and support. Download Adobe Reader for free (for Windows and Mac) here.
A complete step by step sewing tutorial on how to put zippers into zippered pouches.
I have been drafting a pattern for a V-back dress. Being my own draft, it doesn't come with any "destructions". I googled for a tutorial for an invisible zipper in a V-back dress and came up short. So I have made a tutorial. It is not that different from any other invisible zipper insertion, but it is nice to see it illustrated. Now my disclaimer: I have no professional training in pattern drafting or garment construction. I don't know any "industry" secrets. I am a self-taught home sewer and this is the first time I have made a V-back dress. For this tutorial, I have not used the full pattern. In my next post, I will show you the real thing. First up, the pattern. A few things to point out about the pattern. There is a 1/2" seam allowance on the CB seam. This is the same width as my zipper tape. The CB seam allowance mirrors the main panel, so there is a V at the top of the seam allowance, rather than a slope that continues in line with the neckline I have used a 1/2" seam allowance on the V. 1/4" seam allowances are often used on necklines. I wanted 1/2" to give me more "thinking space". You can use 1/4" and this tutorial will still work. You can see that I have used 1/4" seam allowances on the armhole. Notice the notch on the CB seam allowance, which is 1/4" from the edge of the seam allowance. There is no seam allowance on the CB seam of the facing. 1. Prepare your pieces. The pink fabric is my main panel. The white is my facing. The facing is fully interfaced. The main fabric is interfaced along the zipper insertion length and along the V-neckline. I like to interface where the zipper goes. I continued this interfacing up along the neckline as the neckline is cut on the bias. I finished the edge of the zipper insertion length with an overlocker. Normally I would finish the bottom edge of the facing, but I have left it raw in this sample. 2. Mark the exact point where you want the top of the zipper. I don't want to use a hook-and-eye, so I want the top of the zipper to come right up to the neck seam line. 3. Pin the zipper so that the zipper stop is right on your mark. Right side of zip faces right side of fabric, zipper teeth towards bodice. 4. I like to sew my invisible zips in two passes. First, baste down the middle of the zipper tape, using a regular zipper foot. 5. Check that everything lines up ok. I like to do the zipper up and check that nothing is twisted. It doesn't matter on this sample, but on the real thing, it is easy to get the bodice or zip twisted when you are pinning it in place, and it is easier to unpick at the basting stage. 6. Undo the zip again and sew a second time, using an invisible zipper foot and sew right next to the coils. I DON'T iron my zips flat. I tried that once and ended up with a couple of melted zipper teeth. Because the zip is basted in place, it is easy for me to hold the zipper coils flat as they are being sewn. I use a plastic invisible zipper foot rather than the shinier elna one that goes with my machine. I get better results with this one. My mother gave it to me when she was cleaning out her step-mother's sewing supplies. It is really old and I have not seen one like it being sold anywhere. I know that the plastic won't last forever and I am dreading the day it ever breaks. 7. Now the zipper is in and we can attach the facing. Mark the facing 1/4" in from the edge. 8. Line up this mark with the 1/4" notch on the CB seam allowance of the main panel, right sides facing. The stitching line is 1/4" in from each edge, so you want to line up the top of these 2 pieces exactly on this stitching line. This is why we made the seam allowance a V shape. I didn't actually cut a notch in my main panel, but I know that my overlocking is 1/4" wide. 9. Stitch the facing to the main panel along this stitching line, using a regular zipper foot. The zip is sandwiched between the 2 layers. 10. Now fold back the facing on the CB seam line so that the neckline edges of the facing and bodice are aligned. The photograph below shows it better than words. The zipper tape is folded over the facing so that the interfaced seam allowance of the main panel is exposed. 11. Stitch the neckline. Here I am using my 1/2" seam allowance, but yours may be 1/4" or otherwise. See the wobble in my stitch line. This is where my 13 year old son walked in and asked me to sew him some gymnastics longs. As in, an actual garment that he will wear in front of other people. And maybe in something cool like purple lightning fabric. You would have wobbled too! 12. Turn right side out. I have not done any trimming or clipping. 13. Understitch as far as practicable. Do sewing patterns still say that? As a child, I learnt to sew by following the instructions on commercial sewing patterns and I was always taken by that phrase "as far as practicable". Not completely specified and a little open to interpretation and ability. In the photo below you can see where I have pulled out stitches because I understitched on the wrong side. I was still thinking about the gymnastics longs and lost concentration for a moment. 14. Press and ta-da, a beautifully neat zipper. Outside.... ... and just as neat inside. And there you have it. Of course, it is a little trickier when the back bodice is attached to the front bodice and the back facing is attached to a front facing. I did my actual dress before this sample, and took some photos during the process, so I will show that in my next post. Let me know if any step is not clear, or you see any typos in my tutorial. Happy sewing,
As promised... A lining can add a lot to a bag. In this case, I added a lining made with home decor weight cotton and it added sturdiness to my "It's a Cinch Bag". You could also add a lining with a pretty printed fabric to give an old bag new interest. Don't let zippers scare you. I promise they're very easy to sew with. You don't need a special zipper foot, just your regular old presser foot will do just fine. Give it a shot! What do you have to lose? Here's what you'll need: A sturdy lining Fabric or if you prefer a pretty patterned fabric to add something to your bag Zippers One longer than the width of your bag (mine was 22") And a couple more if you want internal pockets in your bag (mine were 7") Twill Tape or Ribbon (i used about a 1 1/3 yard) Let's get started! First you want to cut 2 pieces of fabric to the dimensions of your bag plus 1 inch. My bag was 20" x 20" so I cut two sections of fabric to 21" x 21" Lay your long zipper across the top of the bag face down. If my fabric was patterned I would place my zipper face down on the wrong side of the fabric. Pin all the way across. Sew the zipper to the fabric with about a 1/4" inseam. Lay this section of fabric zipper side down, again on the wrong side, of your other piece of fabric. The zipper should be lined up with the top of the second piece of fabric. Pin across. Stitch across. Iron down the seams you just sewed. Top stitch just next to your zipper. Now you'll need to sew on your twill tape to cover up the raw edges of your seams. Time to add some pockets. Lay your zipper down on the bag lining and mark to the right of the zipper pull and the left of the end clasp like so. In hindsight, I wish I had done this on the other side of the fabric so that I didn't have red lines showing in my finished product. Oh well, no one sees it anyway! Draw a rectangle the length of the lines you just drew and just shorter than the width of your zipper. Cut the rectangle as shown: Press so that you have a nice even rectangle. Lay your zipper over this opening and pin in place. Stitch around the perimeter. Cut a small section of fabric for the lining of your actual pocket. You can make the pocket as big as you like depending on how big you cut this piece of fabric. Sew around the perimeter of your pocket. Add another pocket if you like. Now with the zipper tab up, line your pieces of fabric up. Sew down the sides and bottom with a 1/2" inseam. Whew! Now you have a lining. All that's left to do is sew it to your bag. Insert the lining into your bag. Match up the seams of the lining with the seams of the bag and pin in place. Pin all the way around. Stitch all the way around, under the straps, and you're done! Now you have an awesome lining for your purse complete with pockets for all your knick knacks! Linking to... http://www.iheartnaptime.net/ http://www.bystephanielynn.com/ http://thediyshowoff.blogspot.com/ ...
Buy the V1789 trousers sewing pattern from Vogue. It’s perfect for an advanced beginner/intermediate dressmaker. Misses’ pants, high waisted, very loose-fitting through hip, have waist facings with boning, pleats, side seam pockets, invisible back zip. B: hem band. This sewing pattern is available to buy in the following format: – PAPER (next working day dispatch on orders and FREE UK delivery over £50) Suggested fabrics: Linen, Twill, Broadcloth, Sateen. Interfacing: fusible. Lining: Lining Fabric. Note: Extra fabric maybe needed to match plaids, stripes, one-way design fabrics or for shrinkage. Sizing: B5 (8-10-12-14-16), F5 (16-18-20-22-24), approx. UK sizes B5 (6 – 12), F5 (12 – 20/22). based on our standardised size chart. Please also check the designer's size chart and finished garment measurements. Notions: Thread. One 11" (28 cm) Invisible Zipper, 2 yds (1.9 m) of 3/8" (1 cm) Boning(Feather Weight) If you’re looking for more maker inspiration, check out the latest sewing pattern reviews from the sewing community. We also have a sewing blog to keep you up to date with all the news from the world of sewing. Help using commercial sewing patterns:
This tutorial shows you how to sew bound buttonholes, as well as how to sew them to a facing or lining using detailed video and photos!
Thanks to Jalie Patterns for this great technique! Adjust, lay out, and cut your pattern as usual. Figure out how long you want the front zi
By IN THE FOLDS, The Rushcutter Dress is a paper sewing pattern. Garment Details: The Rushcutter dress is a knee-length, loose fitting A-line dress, designed for woven fabrics. With two style variations, The Rushcutter dress is the perfect multi-season all-rounder. Included in the pattern is an optional waist sash, tha
Learn how to sew an invisible zipper without an invisible zipper foot. It makes sewing invisible zippers easy and professional!
This is the 3rd part of the 4-part series regarding the process review of the lapped zipper. The first entry analyed the correct application of a lapped zipper. The 2nd part was the pattern templat…
On to the front of the pants! These pants have a slanted side pocket, a front stay, a fly zipper and a dart. Because of the stay, the dart must be put in first. After the dart is installed, interface the fly extension. Next tape your pocket edge. All of this must be done first because of the front stay. I was out of dark fusible but this weft insertion doesn't show from the front and worked fine. With the front details done, go ahead and install the pockets and stay as your pattern instructs. The pocket edge was topstitched before the stay was put on and machine basted shut before proceeding with the lining. If you need some help, here is a link to the tute I did on putting in a stay on the last pair of pants. The fabric used for these pants seemed more sensitive to showing ridges when ironed so I did not serge the edges of the pocket or stay. I used a tight stitch length instead. Once the pocket and stay are installed you can go ahead and do the "flat lining" the same way it was done on the pants back legs with one difference.Put your dart in on the lining so that it faces the inside. You can see the dart completed in the pic below. Once again, only the vertical seams get enclosed. That means you will stitch the fly extension but none of the curved seam below. You could go ahead and serge this area. I am going to wait until the crotch seam is sewn and then trim and zigzag together. This is how it was handled in the Threads article, more or less. They were showing more specifically how to do a back vent. I will also do a Hong Kong finish on the straight section of the center back seam. Once all your flat lining is complete, install the fly and sew it up! Obviously this should be done on a pattern that you know fits without further alteration. Remember, all your VERTICAL SEAMS will be sewn with a HALF INCH SEAM ALLOWANCE. All others will default to the 5/8ths. Once the hem is established, finish that off with a Hong Kong finish as well. I'll be back with pics of the completed pants this weekend. I also have another special to surprise to show!..Bunny
In yesterday's post for the Acton sew-along , we joined the bodice to skirt to form a dress, and today we'll be inserting the invisible zip. For any of you who just ran away screaming, please come back! Once you know how to do them (and with a few little tricks under your belt, which I'll be showin
As promised... A lining can add a lot to a bag. In this case, I added a lining made with home decor weight cotton and it added sturdiness to my "It's a Cinch Bag". You could also add a lining with a pretty printed fabric to give an old bag new interest. Don't let zippers scare you. I promise they're very easy to sew with. You don't need a special zipper foot, just your regular old presser foot will do just fine. Give it a shot! What do you have to lose? Here's what you'll need: A sturdy lining Fabric or if you prefer a pretty patterned fabric to add something to your bag Zippers One longer than the width of your bag (mine was 22") And a couple more if you want internal pockets in your bag (mine were 7") Twill Tape or Ribbon (i used about a 1 1/3 yard) Let's get started! First you want to cut 2 pieces of fabric to the dimensions of your bag plus 1 inch. My bag was 20" x 20" so I cut two sections of fabric to 21" x 21" Lay your long zipper across the top of the bag face down. If my fabric was patterned I would place my zipper face down on the wrong side of the fabric. Pin all the way across. Sew the zipper to the fabric with about a 1/4" inseam. Lay this section of fabric zipper side down, again on the wrong side, of your other piece of fabric. The zipper should be lined up with the top of the second piece of fabric. Pin across. Stitch across. Iron down the seams you just sewed. Top stitch just next to your zipper. Now you'll need to sew on your twill tape to cover up the raw edges of your seams. Time to add some pockets. Lay your zipper down on the bag lining and mark to the right of the zipper pull and the left of the end clasp like so. In hindsight, I wish I had done this on the other side of the fabric so that I didn't have red lines showing in my finished product. Oh well, no one sees it anyway! Draw a rectangle the length of the lines you just drew and just shorter than the width of your zipper. Cut the rectangle as shown: Press so that you have a nice even rectangle. Lay your zipper over this opening and pin in place. Stitch around the perimeter. Cut a small section of fabric for the lining of your actual pocket. You can make the pocket as big as you like depending on how big you cut this piece of fabric. Sew around the perimeter of your pocket. Add another pocket if you like. Now with the zipper tab up, line your pieces of fabric up. Sew down the sides and bottom with a 1/2" inseam. Whew! Now you have a lining. All that's left to do is sew it to your bag. Insert the lining into your bag. Match up the seams of the lining with the seams of the bag and pin in place. Pin all the way around. Stitch all the way around, under the straps, and you're done! Now you have an awesome lining for your purse complete with pockets for all your knick knacks! Linking to... http://www.iheartnaptime.net/ http://www.bystephanielynn.com/ http://thediyshowoff.blogspot.com/ ...
Pebble grained calfskin tote in black. · Integrated shoulder strap · Gold-tone logo stamp at face · Detachable zip pouch at interior · Calfskin suede lining · H19.5" x W20.5" Supplier color: Black 100% calfskin. Made in Italy. 241914F049002
Following on from our NEW invisible zipper tutorial, here's how to attach your zipper to a facing with your sewing machine like a pro! NOTE: This tutorial is demonstrating a side invisible zipper (as
The Ultimate Culottes are a simple pair of flattering, oh-so-easy-to-sew wide-legged cropped trousers. Whether you pair them with flats to channel Audrey, or dress them up with heels for a night out, the Ultimate Culottes are super stylish and endlessly wearable. They even look good over tights for nippy winter weather! The Ultimate Culottes are designed to sit on the natural waist, and come with two finishing options. Version 1 has a waistband with lovely wide belt loops, whilst Version 2 is finished invisibly with a neat facing. Both options feature single darts at the front and double darts at the back for shaping, with an invisible zip in the side seam. Fitted only at the waist, the Ultimate Culottes are a great pattern for those new to trouser-sewing. They make a lovely quick afternoon project, and with such a customisable design, once you’ve made one pair there’s so much scope to have fun with the pattern. They are easily shortened into shorts, or lengthened into palazzo pants to suit your style. See what other people have been making in the Ultimate Culottes Pinterest gallery and on Instagram using the hashtag #soiultimateculottes.
