Here's what to do when your sewing machine thread bunches up. Sewing machine thread bunching up on the top or underside of fabric is a common problem & a frustrating one! But don't despair, there are lots of things you can check to solve this issue. Refer to this checklist before call a sewing machine repair man!
Diagnose and solve poor sewing machine tension with this step-by-step checklist.
Pin It Looking for a quick winter project to sew? You’ve found the right spot! Here’s a list of 101 cozy sewing tutorials for Winter! You’ll find mittens, blankets, quilts and tons of ideas for your next scarf. Can you really have too many scarves? I think not! Grab a giant hot chocolate, get comfy… [read more]
Learn how to fix sewing machine tension so you don't feel the stress of not being able to get the sewing machine tension quite right. Easy checklist to get your machine sewing correctly.
Hey there! Is your fabric all nicely organized in a way that inspires you to sew more?If not, I've got some fabric storage tips for you!
This is the ultimate guide to sewing with piping. Learn how to sew with piping, and how to make it yourself. Sewing with piping is easy - if you know the right tips and tricks.
One of the many benefits of sewing your own wardrobe is that you can customize handmade projects however you like. Kaysie of KZJO'STUDIO shared this beautiful Shell Edge Finish Tutorial that is the perfect finishing touch for many different knit sewing projects. This lovely accent will transform any basic piece into a one-of-a-kind creation. Click here for the entire tutorial and happy sewing! In her example, Kaysie uses KZJO'STUDIO Ashlin Dress Sewing Pattern to add her shell edge finish, but you can use this technique on almost any knit sewing pattern. Order your Ashlin Dress along with many more Indie Sewing Patterns at Girl Charlee today! Kaysie's tutorial includes many sewing tips for readers like the suggestion of using a contrast thread to show off the shell edge. This is such a fun added touch, why not show it off? Don't forget to practice on a scrap piece of fabric before sewing your Ashlin to master the technique and see how your stitches will look. The Ashlin is designed to be sewn in a stable knit fabric including Cotton Lycra and Ponte De Roma. A few of my picks from the store: Follow Girl Charlee Fabrics's board Knit Fabric Sewing Tutorials on Pinterest. We hope you enjoy this tutorial! We love to see what you sew up so please send 1-2 images* of any project you make with Girl Charlee Fabrics to [email protected] and you might see your creation featured in our next Knit Picks! *Please note that all images submitted are subject for Girl Charlee promotional use. Happy Sewing! ~ Heather & The Girl Charlee Team SaveSave SaveSave SaveSave
Messy stitches. Loose threads. Clanking metal. Lint clogs. When you’re in the quilting groove, there’s nothing more frustrating than an out-of-whack sewing machine. Luckily, there are a few tips and techniques that can get your machine up and running in no time, and Rob is just the guy to show you how! In fact, he gets pretty excited about taking care of his machines! This week Rob has released a series of three video tutorials to guide you through do-it-yourself repair and maintenance. He’ll also help you diagnose problems that require professional attention. With over 15 years of experience as a sewing machine technician, youRead More →
Today I’ll be showing you how to use a twin needle or double needle on your sewing machine all in a video tutorial. There’s a photo tutorial as well along with some great close up examples to help you be as successful as possible with sewing with a twin needle. There’s something about sewing two […]
Patterns aren't cheap. Seriously, I was browsing through through the look books at Hobby Lobby the other day and some of them were as much as $20. Tack that on to the price of fabric and other supplies and suddenly sewing your own clothing becomes very expensive. Thankfully, you can make your own patterns using your own clothing that you know to fit well. I'll show you how to make a simple blouse pattern using a top of my own. I used Scotch Postal Wrapping Paper as my pattern paper. I found it at Target for about $5. It gives you 30 feet of paper, so it will last a long time. I used paper because I like to lay my pattern piece down and trace the shape directly onto my fabric. If you think you'd prefer to pin the pattern to your fabric and then cut it out, paper may not be the way to go for you. Muslin fabric is another great material that would allow you to pin the pattern piece to your fabric. It's also nice because it can be folded up and stored away when not in use. Lay your garment down on the paper and determine the middle of the top. Mark right above the collar and right below the hem. Draw a rough outline of one half of the top. When you get to the sleeve, do your best to fold it back so that you just see the armhole. Sketch the curve as shown below. This first pattern piece I'm working on will serve as the back of the pattern. Sketch the outline of the slightly higher, back collar. Stop once you get to the half marks that you previously made. Now you'll need to sketch an outline outside the dotted line to allow for seam allowances. To determine how far apart the rough sketch line should be from the final outline of the pattern you'll need to take what materials you're working with into consideration. For example: The lace top I am using has a stretch quality to it. If I want to use this pattern to make a top with a non-stretch fabric, I will need to make the final pattern outline a good amount wider than my rough sketch. However, if I was using a non-stretch garment to make my pattern I wouldn't have to allow for as much extra fabric. It's always better to have a too big pattern and therefore a too big top than it is to go too small. Don't be afraid to be generous. Extend the outline by about 1.5 inches along the sides and about 1 inch at the armholes and collar. Extend the bottom of the top by several inches to allow for hemming. Cut on the line and fold the pattern over making sure that the crease is on the middle marks you made previously. Trace so that you have a perfectly symmetrical pattern. Repeat the same process for the front piece of the pattern being sure to trace the front part of the collar this time. Now for the sleeves. Fold a piece of paper and position it underneath the garment and the pattern. The fold should be parallel to the top of the sleeve. Trace the curve of the front pattern piece. Leave plenty of extra room for the sleeve to be hemmed. Remember it's better to go oversized than undersized. You can always take the shirt in if it is a little too big. Cut out all of your pieces and press to get rid of creases and you're done! *Update* I recently used this pattern to make this cute little top. Click on the picture for the full tutorial!
Don't stress over the tension dials on your sewing machine. Find out when and how to set and adjust thread tension.
Learn how to choose sewing machine needles to sew denim. Whether you're sewing jeans or upcycling denim, these tips will help you.
The tank was forced gently placed on Maia and it fits super well. And the back's not too shabby either. Because Millie asked so nicely about the way I did the binding, here's my compendium of different methods of knit binding. And why I don't like them. Except my own way, which I love. Method One: Single fold binding Binding is folded in half: On fold, sewn to the right side of the garment: End result flipped up: NB: You can topstitch seam allowance back down to the main fabric for a nicer finish, I didn't because I'm in a ridiculous hurry. Why I don't like it: If you're binding a neckline or something super curvy you have to cut the binding much shorter and make it stretch evenly to fit. Too. Many. Pins.Method Two: Double fold binding Binding folded in half and then into quarters: Folded to hide raw edges and the bottom fold extend a little bit further down from the top fold: Binding encloses raw edge like a sandwich: Stitched close to the bottom edge (thereby catching the hidden folded edge on the inside that extends slightly further) The right side: The wrong side: Why I don't like it: You have too be oh-so-slow and careful to make sure you are catching the hidden bottom edge in a non-ugly fashionMethod Three: Enclose and trim (the Ottobre method) Binding folded up about a third of the way to give stitch guide: Placed to the right side of garment and stitched along press line: Binding pulled up and over the raw edges into the inside of the garment and pressed down: Stitched on the right side of the garment just below the bottom edge of the binding: Turned to the wrong side: The excess binding trimmed up to the stitch line: The end result: Why I don't like it: It's honestly not that bad, but I don't love the trimmed raw edge. That's the kind of thing that shops cover up with a coverstitch.Method Four: Fold and Flip (the Kitschy Coo method) As per Method One, fold binding in half but put it to the wrong side of the garment: Once stitched, flip the binding to the right side: Fold it over so that it encloses the seam allowance. Roll it a tiny bit so the edge of the binding is still visible from the wrong side (otherwise known as Don't Drag the Wrong Side of the Garment Up and Over So Everyone Can See It). You should be able to feel the seam allowance hiding inside. Stitch the binding down close to the edge from the right side: Pardon the skipped stitches, my machine was being an a**hole. The wrong side looks nice too (and see what I mean about a tiny bit of the binding still visible from the inside): A better picture of both sides when machines are being cooperative: Why this method is awesome: Good looking from both sides, and you don't need to cut the binding smaller than the neckline and stretch it to fit. Hope this helps those of you getting your summer knits out! Pin It Tweet
This sewing for beginners class will teach you all of the basic sewing skills you'll need to start sewing your own projects! Learning how to sew home decor projects is an easy way to decorate your home on a budget.
Gathering on a Serger To speed up gathering on a sewing project, I simply change the settings on my Janome 1100D Professional Serg...
Neckline binding is my favourite neckline finish for knits. In today's Briar sewalong, we'll be showing you our method for creating a neckline binding.
Sew directionally - This handy sewing tip helps you get both sides of the garment to stay the same length throughout the construction process.
This is one of those things that I think everybody knows already so why do a tutorial on it, but I’ve needed to show it to 2 people in the last month. I would consider these people to be expe…
There are lots of ways to sew a bias binding to finish a garment, so I've put together a series of tutorials to walk you through three of my favorite options! You'll see...
Add a couture touch to your seam finishes with this tutorial. By Katie Whittle.
How to do a ladder stitch (also know as an invisible stitch or hidden stitch) step by step video tutorial. This tutorial is perfect for beginners!
Today I'll be showing you my favourite neckline finish for knit fabrics. It's my personal method for sewing knit neckline bindings, and I prefer it to the standard method!
Need I remind you that fabrics can either make or break your project. Read on for more info on our guide to different fabrics and their properties.
How to Make Bias Tape: Step by Step. Bias Binding Free Sewing Tutorial
Learn how to sew a narrow hem (easy even on chiffon) using a ban roll tape. You will like this video sewing tutorial on how to sew a rolled hem on chiffon without a special rolled hem foot.
Learn how to make a sewing wrist cuff of your own with this tutorial by Feeling Stitchy. -Sewtorial
Have you ever looked at all the presser feet that come with your machine and wondered “what on earth to these things do”? Well, trust me, I’ve wondered the same thing. And today I’m going to demystify one of the most amazing of them all, the rolled hem foot, also known as a narrow rolled hem foot or
Here is a very interesting sewing tutorial for your sewing projects. Learn how to sew with the bobbin thread in the needle. Find out why you may need to do it.
Serger tension can be tricky for the beginner sewist. But with a little bit of clarity, you’ll know exactly how to turn those dials or knobs to achieve the perfect tension for all of your sewing projects.
If you have ever looked at a sewing pattern, you probably know how much information is packed into those small packages. From the type of pattern, materials needed, instructions, the pattern, and so on, it's not easy to know how to read a sewing pattern. The good news is that you get a lot of information to work with, from written and illustrated instructions, tips, alteration guidelines, and more. The not so good news is that reading a sewing pattern can be overwhelming for even the most experienced sewists. Fortunately, vintage and modern print sewing patterns, along with digital patterns all have similar information. When it comes to sewing basics, you will want to learn how to read a sewing pattern as one of the first things you figure out. It's important to learn how to understand a sewing pattern because sewing a dress, a pair of pants, shirt, or other items is a process that takes time, energy, and money that you don't want to lose. Even though every pattern has a particular set of instructions, sewing symbols, and notes, these sewing tips and tricks for patterns will help you gain knowledge to be prepared for your next project. Sign Up For More Free Patterns >>> Below, you will find one of our popular videos on how to read a sewing pattern as well as written instructions and pictures. Then, learn all about pattern symbols you will find on your sewing projects. From the grain line to the zipper markings and everything in between, you'll know exactly what all of the details on a pattern mean.
Today I’ll be showing you how to use a twin needle or double needle on your sewing machine all in a video tutorial. There’s a photo tutorial as well along with some great close up examples to help you be as successful as possible with sewing with a twin needle. There’s something about sewing two […]
Sewing with knits can be a daunting experience for someone who is new to them, but it doesn't have to be. As someone who took the plunge as a seamstress awhile ago, I recently acquired a new appreciation for working with knits as a designer. Knowledge is key, so before my first knit pattern is released this week, I wanted to share a little bit about my experience of designing a knit pattern. There is a lot to consider when sewing with knits: types of knits, sergers vs. sewing machines, types of needles, stretch percentage, stretch recovery, cutting knit fabric, etc. I'm going to be focusing mostly on stretch percentage and recovery and will provide links to some great resources that cover the other topics. To be honest, when I've sewn with knits in the past, I never paid too much attention to stretch percentage and recovery, I just sewed with fabrics that I liked. The results were overall quite satisfying, although there were a few patterns that caused me to think "Oooo, the size is a bit off on this one.". Never before did I have the eye opening experience that I had last week when I sewed two samples of the same pattern. A very wonderful group of testers had been sewing up my Stellar's Vest pattern, and sending me their results. Through no fault of their own, the results came back ranging from perfect sizing, to very large. How was this happening, when they were using the same pattern and even the same size? I adjusted the sizes in the pattern, and had another set of testers do a second round of testing. The results were better, but still inconsistent. I figured I had better sew up a couple more samples of my own. I sewed Anja a size three Stellar's Vest in the A-line version with some adorable fabric from L'Oiseau called Deerly Beloved. (Side note - I highly recommend everything at L'Oiseau. The quality and service is absolutely impeccable.) Ok, back to my experience. The vest turned out great…the fit was perfect in the chest, armholes were good, everything about it was comfortable and cute. She wore it immediately and wouldn't take it off until bedtime. The next day, we did a little mother-daughter local fabric shopping (something that is getting more and more fun now that she enjoys selecting her own fabric!). She chose some pretty Michael Miller Blossoms 100% cotton knit. It was a great choice as I wanted something that would match nicely with Tobias' vest. I took the fabric home, pre-washed it (a must with knits), and sewed up another Stellar's Vest during nap time using exactly the SAME pattern pieces I used the day before. Nothing changed other than the fabric. Here was the result: What changed? Did my daughter mysteriously shrink from one day to the next? HA, of course, not! :) But the second garment is a full two sizes too big! This is when I realized the importance of not 'winging' the use of my knit fabric. I should've known better, I admit it. But here's the positive that comes out of this experience: I'm hoping to prevent you from making my mistake! The first fabric had a stretch percentage of over 50% and excellent recovery, while the second, around 25% with good recovery. How can you tell with your fabrics? Cut a 4"X4"(10cmX10cm) piece of fabric, fold it perpendicular with the grain line. Download and print this stretch percentage guide with tips for sewing with knits, hold the fabric firmly at zero, and stretch it as far as you can. Alternatively, you can use a ruler using the same principle. Either way, just make sure you do this. It makes a world of difference! DOWNLOAD HERE So now that you know how to determine the stretch percentage, how do you use this valuable information? Well, always read your patterns carefully and only use the fabric type and stretch percentage recommended by the designer. If the pattern does not specify, contact the designer and ask, if possible. Or, don't use your best fabric the first time around. You can size up or down depending on the result of your first garment. Stretch recovery is also very important to consider when sewing with knits. When you stretch your fabric, does it return to its original size and shape? Or is it now a little wider than it was before? You definitely want to use fabric that has a very good recovery. This recovery corresponds with the quality of the fabric, after all, who wants to wear a garment that becomes wider each time it's worn? I also prefer my knit fabrics to have some weight and/or a bit of lycra to give them that extra bit of recovery and avoid flimsy, lightweight or sheer knits. Of course, this all depends on the pattern you are using, so keep that in mind as well. In the photos below, it's clear to see which fabric has better recovery. The top one basically stayed the same width after it was stretched, while the second one returned to its original size. You can also feel a big difference between the two; the top one has a slightly, rough texture, and the bottom is soft and smooth. What I failed to do for my testers, was specify the stretch percentage and recovery needed to achieve the best results with my pattern. Incidentally, the fabrics of all my samples had a stretch percentage 50% or more and very good to excellent recovery until the final floral one. So, I think a logical explanation is that stretch percentage and recovery played a pretty major part in the varied results (especially after the first round of testing). Lesson learned! Here are some other tips I find useful to keep in mind when sewing with knits: Use a stretch or ballpoint needle. The rounded tip passes easily between the knit threads by separating them. Press often. When you sew a seam, and it looks wavy, giving it a good press will more than likely fix the problem. Do not pull or stretch the fabric as you sew. This can create those very wavy seams. There is a time and place for stretching, such as when attaching bindings. Follow the directions in your pattern carefully. Want to read more about using knits? Here are some great resources to help you have a positive experience when sewing with knits: Sewing With Knits (Kitschy Coo) Sewing With Knit Fabrics (sew mccool) Sewing With Jersey 101 (Prudent Baby) Tips for Sewing With Knit Fabrics (Oliver + S) Knits 101 (Shwin & Shwin) Working With Stretch and Knit Fabric (My Pattern Designer) Cutting Knit Fabric (Mad Mim) Ask Dana - No Fear. How to Sew with KNIT Fabrics (Made) I'm so glad to have had this experience so I can pass on what I've learned. Knits can be so fun to work with and great for children's clothing because they can be so comfortable and versatile, but it really helps to know how to use them properly. I can't stress enough how important it is to read through your patterns so you can achieve the results the designer intends for you to have. Never again will I blindly use knit fabric simply on account of the colour or pattern. It's worth the time to test out the fabric first so that you can be happier with the results. If you have any tips or tricks that help you have success with knits, please leave a comment and let us know. Thanks!
There's nothing more thrilling than finishing a garment that you've made all yourself, beginning to end. The only hitch? The hem! Though it may seem like a simple project at first, with so many stitching, folding, and sewing machine techniques, you may feel at a loss for what kind of hem to use. What's the difference between a baby hem and a rolled hem? What kinds of hems are invisible and which can you see? Are some hems more flexible than others? What the heck is a hem to begin with? Put your mind at ease with this simple guide to different types of hems. Learn all of the pros and cons to various hand-stitched and machine-stitched hem types, and you'll be finishing the ends of your clothes like a pro. Even better, this manual has definitions for every term you need to understand hemming instructions. Tackle all of the sewing lingo from a "blind hemmer" to "hem allowance" with these easy-to-read terms. When you have a jaw-dropping dress that's nearly ready to stun on date night or a tailored blouse that's a single snip from being interview-perfect, don't leave your final stitches to chance. Everything you need to select the ultimate hem type can be found in this free, online guide! Sign Up For More Free Patterns >>> PLUS! We have 10 hem tutorials to help you master all the different types of hems. Scroll down to find all the wonderful hemming projects to try.
Serger tension can be tricky for the beginner sewist. But with a little bit of clarity, you’ll know exactly how to turn those dials or knobs to achieve the perfect tension for all of your sewing projects.
Elevate the quality of all your sewing projects with mitered corners! Here are 3 simple ways to sew a mitered corner that you have to try!
Zipper tabs are functional, plus add detail. Learn zipper anatomy and how to reduce a zipper by adding fabric tabs. Details you need to know when sewing.
Don't stress over the tension dials on your sewing machine. Find out when and how to set and adjust thread tension.
Have you ever wondered what the little ball is for on your seam ripper? Learn how to use a seam ripper and the little red ball.
