Vintage sewing machine Singer 221, motor 110V. Transformer 220V/110V, case, accessories, manual, pedal is attached, see photos. Pictures are part of this auction! Used condition. Number AF252585. Built in 1939. Machine is functional and there is a video here https://youtu.be/xVnIFFp3MOU !!The machine has the usual signs of wear and tear, that you would expect from a used item. The have gold plated and black finishes Signs of use, scratches and scuffs. Machine will be packed most carefully for shipping. International shipping please ask before bidding! Package 12kg
Are Some 221 Featherweights Better Than Others? A common question we receive here in the shop is, "Are some Featherweights better than others?" It is...
Today my friend Paula came by. Paula loves to sew, too. She graciously took the tour of all of my machines. She wanted to know how many I...
I've created the Pricing Guide for Vintage Sewing Machines that will help you answer the question, “Is this a good price to pay for a vintage sewing machine?”. This PDF download is full of information to help you determine what price you should pay when you find your perfect machine(s). While I
Recently a comment was posted about, "well what about the 301 Singer Sewing Machines?" Here is a recent myth busted by Rob Stevens, over on my facebook page, about the Singer 301 machine. 301 Myth busted! The factory burned down, and when they started production again, the A was added. The original 301 was built in NJ, the 301A in Anderson, NC. September 7 at 11:20am · Edited · Like · 2 Rob Andre' Stevens Sorry Sir, that info above is wrong.. That 'fire' myth has been perpetuated for years. Time to set the record straight, here's the 'Real Story' of the added letter 'A'. Sorry for the length, but to tell a truth, the 'facts' are needed. As most know, Singer had one United States manufacturing factory, 'Elizabethport', located in Elizabeth, New Jersey. All sewing machines manufactured there never had a prefix after the model number. Singer had several manufacturing factories overseas, and up to the year 1900, also used no prefix. After the year 1900 all models manufactured overseas then included a prefix after the model number to denote the place of its manufacture. Examples would be our beloved 221K and 222K, manufactured in Kilbowie, Scotland. In 1950 Singer opened the Anderson, South Carolina plant to start manufacture of the all new slant model sewing machines, i.e. the 301 etc, but all the parts tooling was at Elizabethport, NJ, and the 'only' 301's ever made there, was a pilot run of 30 machines, just for testing and inspection, as it was an entirely new sewing machine, and later those 30 were then intentionally destroyed. When the Anderson factory started manufacturing the Singer 301, it did so using the 'NA' serial numbers allotted by NJ in May of 1951. In June 1951, Singer planned to release a "Limited Edition" of Singer 301's during the Centennial Year, and so the Elizabethport factory started producing the 301 parts, shipping them to the Anderson, SC factory for final assembly. In July 1951, the original Company register number log book for the Anderson factory shows that 10,000 serial numbers, i.e. NA000001 - NA010000, were allotted to be manufactured. They were the 'only' allotted Singer 301 serial numbers during the Centennial Year 1951, and only some were badged with 1851 - 1951 Centennial emblems, the rest had the newer black bordered badges. From July - Sept was when the "Limited Edition" of the "Singer 301" were being manufactured at the Anderson factory. Then from 16-30 Sept 1951, the 100th Anniversary of the patenting of the first Singer sewing machine was observed by Singer Manufacturing Company in New York with 9,400 Singer employees. The New Singer Model 301 was displayed at the exhibition of new and old Singer sewing machines, and prior to the general public knowing its existence. During that 2 week event, the new Singer 301 was awarded to many Singer employees. From Oct to Dec '51, the remaining 301's were then shipped to selected Service Center/Stores for sale, even though no advertizement or advance notice had yet been created. In Jan 1952, manufacturing began for the Singer Model 301, serial numbers NA010001-NA186000, allotted to be solely manufactured at the Anderson, SC factory throughout 1952, and in Oct of that year, the Grand Introduction of the 301 was introduced to the public, with all its fanfare and ads. As aforementioned, to avoid creating confusion as to where the 301 was actually being manufactured, Singer had decided, i.e. starting with serial numbers NA186001, to add the prefix "A" to denote it was manufactured at the 'Anderson', South Carolina plant, and so in Jan 1953, the 301 Model Tag became no more, and all slant models thereafter bore an "A", hence the Singer 301A, and later the 401A, 403A, 500A and the final 503A. Now for you 'Collectors' on here, the issuance of a very 'Limited Edition' of a machine is/was a very rare occurrence in the Singer Manufacturing Company's history, as they had never released any Singer Model sewer one year prior to it's introduction date, so it makes those first 10,000 Singer 301's rare birds indeed. One last notable item, on all 'Black' machines, there were two different gold decals used: The very early Singer 301 sewing machines had what they called a "Paperclips" gold decal with the center decal that looks like an "S". Singer 301's after serial # NA130000, and all black 301A's had what they called a "Prism" gold decal with the center decal that looks like an "8". So there you have it, and I'll always give credit where credit is due, as a lot of this info came from 'Singer301.com' ..And so M'Ladys and Gents, adieu.. and to all have a great new week. Facebook group located at: https://www.facebook.com/groups/157457531160/ Ask to join! Here is what I could find: On Pattern Review - several reviews of the Singer 301 machine. http://sewing.patternreview.com/SewingMachine/Singer Singer301.com 301 Vintage Sewing Machine Review http://blog.sew-classic.com/2009/03/14/classic-singer-301-301a-vintage-sewing-machine-review.aspx April 1930's 301 Machines http://www.april1930s.com/html/singer_301___301a_machines.html Glenn's Joy of 301 Singer Sewing Machines http://pages.suddenlink.net/joyof301s/glenn.htm http://pages.suddenlink.net/joyof301s/301faqs.htm Grandmother's Sewing Machines 301 http://www.grandmotherssewingmachine.com/singer_301.html Sleepy Cat's Newest Sewing Machine - the 301! http://sleepycathollow.wordpress.com/2009/10/16/1951-singer-301-my-newest-sewing-machine/ A manual for the 301 http://static.onecreativeblog.com/files/singer-301-manual.pdf ISMACS info on the 301 http://www.ismacs.net/singer_sewing_machine_company/singer-class-301-sewing-machines.html Collecting 301's http://possumjimandelizabeth.com/xhtml/collect_sewing_sing301.html Flicker of 301s http://www.flickr.com/photos/16989706@N00/124804972/ Best Sewing Machine Review of the 301 http://bestsewingmachine.net/sewing-machine-reviews/singer-301 An Ebay Guide and Review of the 301 Singer Sewing Machine http://reviews.ebay.com/Singer-301-Sew-Your-Next-Quilt-on-This-Vintage-Machine_W0QQugidZ10000000002642554 The Black 301 Singer Sewing Machine http://black301.com/ Treadle Quilt's 301 in a different cabinet! http://treadlequilts.blogspot.com/2009/10/my-singer-301-in-queen-anne-cabinet.html Newest edition from what the craft - the 301! http://whatthecraft.com/the-newest-edition-to-my-sewing-family-singer-301/ Susan's Cloches tension and 301 Singer Sewing Machine Thoughts. http://susanscloches.blogspot.com/2010/05/301-youre-moving.htmlhttp://susanscloches.blogspot.com/2010/05/301-youre-moving.html http://susanscloches.blogspot.com/2010/06/tension-and-301.html http://susanscloches.blogspot.com/search/label/Singer%20301 Tomrit 301 Singer! http://tomrit.com/sewing/?p=13 A wordpress blog on the 301 Singer http://singer301.wordpress.com/ Leah's Garden 301 http://leahsgarden.blogspot.com/2009/09/defeat-longer-story.html Penny Quilt Journal on the wonderful 301 machine. http://pennyquiltsjournal.blogspot.com/2009/07/wonderful-old-singer-sewing-machines.html Martha Sews - back story with the 301 machine http://marshasews.blogspot.com/2009/01/my-sewing-back-story.html?showComment=1236948780000 Sew Mama Sew 301 stuff! http://sewmamasew.com/blog2/?p=837 and soon some 301 Singer information from my family! Woo! So enjoy these links! Any more? Please let me know! Table dates provided by Rob Stevens from the facebook group, Gaileee's Singer Featherweights 221 and 222s.
Shop Shirring Foot Here Ever wonder what you can do with this little attachment? Using this foot has made a drastic difference in the...
Bobbin Case For Singer 221 Featherweight Sewing Machines. Singer bobbin case #45751. This high quality bobbin case will fit following Singer machines : 221 featherweight, 221-1, 222, 301 & 301A If your original bobbin case was marked 45750 as in some of the earlier Featherweights, then this bobbin case may not fit or if fits may hang the thread occassionally.
Today, in part 4 of the Getting To Know Your Featherweight Series, you will learn how to thread a Singer Featherweight Sewing Machine from start...
A SINGER Attachments Set, featured in a wrinkle-finished black metal SINGER case - all original. Attachments are Featherweight 221 and 222 compatible. This is one of the most coveted and desirable sets to own for Singer Featherweight Attachment Collections. Scarce to find, especially complete and in such nice condition. The attachments in this specialty Singer box fit and work perfectly on the Featherweight 221 and 222 - the Narrow Hemmer, Adjustable Hemmer, Ruffler, Binder, Quilter, Underbraider, Tucker, Seam Guide along with three bobbins, thumb screw, pack of needles, and two original Singer screwdrivers. The perfect set to keep handy! Each attachment is formally held in place by metal clips, making it easy to return each attachment and tool to its proper place when not in use. Take note of the Underbraider attachment. As you can see from this link, the Underbraider allows for that "certain something special" on a fashionable garment or craft project. Would be fun to use it to embellish a quilt block or handbag. Paying close attention, you will see that the underbraider guides the braid through while the quilter foot (without the bar) feeds and sews on the backside of the fabric - making the braid appear as if it is "floating" on the front surface. I took extreme close-up photos so you could see that the thread is hardly even noticeable, so be sure to look at all the photographs. Your purchase includes the following: SINGER Metal Boxed Attachments Case Ruffler Tucker Binder Underbraider Narrow Hemmer Adjustable Hemmer Quilter Seam Guide & Thumb Screw Large & Small Screwdriver Set Original Singer pack of needles (3) Featherweight Bobbins Replica Leaflet with Attachment Placement
Rebecca Grace Shares her Creative Process for Sewing and Quilting, Combining Traditional Hand Stitching Techniques with Computer Technology
Click here for a free download of all the parts, screws, and mechanics to the Singer Featherweight 221. Two full pages are included for easy...
This is rather strange looking attachment, wouldn’t you say? I likened it to a preying mantis because of how the thread arms reach out and the bottom arms crisscross… Nevertheless, this is a very, very scarce attachment to find indeed! We know this attachment is expensive. It is quite a collector’s item not just because of how scarce it is to find one (in complete condition with attachment, both spool arms, original box, manual, and tiny thumb screw), but also one that is working and functional! In fact, several years ago we quit buying this particular attachment unless we could personally sample and test it before selling. After having several come in the shop at high prices that ended up not working properly because of some minute error in precision, we have been leery about buying them untested. I wish they all worked as well as this one! It is imperative that each upper and lower clamp grip precisely over the thread crossing arms like you see in the photograph above. The Two-Thread Embroidery Attachment varied in color over the years. Sometimes they would be chromium and sometimes they would have a blackside finish. You can see the differences in the finishes in the images above. Some were even a partial with a blackside attachment and chromium arms or vice versa. You can see in the antique baby garment how a similar effect was accomplished. As you can see in all the samples above that you can use the standard thumb screw, however, it does make it easier (the thread is less likely to get caught) if you have the original teeny tiny thumb screw that would have been included originally with the attachment. It is so tiny that they were not thought to be a thumb screw when tossed into a sewing cabinet drawer. Who knows how many of them have been tossed over the years. Be sure to watch the video below to see what the original thumb screw looks like. The best thread that I have found to work with is the Sulky 12wt thread. It’s a bit thicker than normal thread, but still lightweight enough that the threads actually criss-cross to achieve the decorative effect the Two-Thread Embroidery Attachment is so famous for. If you are blessed enough to stumble upon one of these at a local estate sale, etc. and it works — be sure to use a stabilizer with your fabric when you test it, just like all machine embroidery work. Read through the instructions and work very, very slowly and begin by practicing with straight lines. As you gain more confidence, use a traced design and work with curves and points. You can experiment with different threads to make one side stand out from the other.
Shop the Invisible Zipper Foot - Adjustable Here Hidden or Invisible zippers sound so intimidating, don't they? Well, the truth of the matter is they're actually easier to put in than an ordinary zipper, especially with the right tool. The Featherweight Shop is now carrying the Low Shank Hidden Invisible Zipper Foot Attachment. I much prefer this attachment over the misshapen plastic doo-hickeys found in a little package at the sewing stores, which look more like multi-colored mind puzzlers than they do a Sewing Machine Attachment. This low shank invisible zipper foot has a clear or somewhat opaque foot mounted to a metal attachment bracket which has a screw on the backside for adjusting side-to-side depending on where you want your needle. I prefer to stitch a basting line on the fabric along the seam allowances so that I can align the zipper tape correctly. Press the zipper out flat... then with right sides together, allow the teeth to set in the groove opposite the seam allowance edge. Make sure your needle is catching the zipper tape correctly and stitch. (Most hidden zippers are accompanied with instructions for inserting it into the seam - now you will have an easy foot to use for application!) When you need to stitch the bottom section of the zipper tape in place, you can use the outer edge of the attachment. Plus, look at this sweet example of the invisible zipper used on a School Dress for a young Ruthie! ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ For traditional zippers, you can use the old-fashioned Singer Zipper Foot Attachment as shown below. I've labeled this one the wide Zipper Foot Attachment simply because it has a wider foot. I've found that it makes little difference for application, wide or narrow. The attachment can do more than just zippers - make your own piping, too! Cut your own bias from a fabric of choice, add an appropriate cording width to the center wrong side, fold it over and begin stitching! Then you'll use your zipper foot again to apply the piping to your fabric. Place the piping on the seam allowance on the right side and baste in place. Mine happens to be 1/2 inch so the edge of my piping actually coincided with the edge of the fabric, but if your seam allowance was 5/8, your piping might be inset a little bit. (It won't show because it will get stitched within the seam allowance.) Then stitch the two pieces of fabric together on your seam allowance and the piping will show through to the right side beautifully. You can see below the zipper and piping sample.
Amazing. Simple. Let me say it again - A-M-A-Z-I-N-G! Constructing a little apron for my daughter's Kindergarten teacher I decided to see if I could...
Give your Featherweight a
Guaranteed to fit Alphasew Sewing Machine Models: 221 Featherweight Guaranteed to fit Necchi Sewing Machine Models: 4825 Guaranteed to fit Singer Sewing Machine Models: 1021, 1022, 1200, 1200-1, 1247, 1263, 1280, 1288, 1730, 1802, 1803, 1812, 1852, 1853, 1862, 1872, 1873, 201, 201-2, 221 Featherweight, 222, 223, 237, 239, 240, 2404, 241, 242, 2430, 247, 247AP, 248, 250, 251, 252, 257, 258, 259, 2712, 2718, 2722, 2724, 2730, 2732, 288, 293B, 301, 301A, 3101, 3102, 3103, 3105, 319, 327, 327K, 328, 329, 337, 338, 348, 353, 354, 360, 362, 366, 367, 401, 401A, 403, 404, 413k, 416, 416k, 417, 418, 4522, 4525, 4526, 4528, 4530, 4538, 457, 466, 476 Stylist, 476K Stylist, 477, 478, 4825, 4828, 4830, 491UTT, 500, 502, 503, 507, 509, 513, 514, 518, 522, 527, 533, 534, 538, 543, 560, 600, 600E, 6011, 6012, 6021, 603, 604, 6102, 6104, 6105, 6106, 6110, 6120, 6130, 6136, 6146, 6152, 6156, 6174, 6184, 620, 6201, 620E31, 6202, 6211, 6212, 6214, 6215, 6217, 6221, 625, 625E1, 625E6, 625E7, 626, 628, 629, 630, 630E, 630E31, 635, 635E3, 635E6, 635E7, 636, 638, 639, 640E, 645, 646, 648, 649, 6513, 6522, 6528, 6533, 6543, 6544, 6548, 6606, 7015, 7021, 7025, 7101, 7102, 7104, 7105, 7106, 7108, 7110, 7136, 7174, 7184, 8002, 8007, 8019, 8100, 8200, 8500, 8502, 8505, 8518, 8600, 8602, 8605, 8606, 8610, 8614, 8618, 8774, 9500, 9600, 9900, CE-350 Futura III, DL17 Alternate Part Numbers: 66774-002
The Singer "Featherweight" became a classic sewing machine due to its portable nature and sturdy simplicity. Learn more about these popular vintage sewing machines.
Singer 221 Sewing Machine Timing. With needle threaded, turn hand wheel over toward operator until needle bar reaches lowest point and rises to position
This post is how I serviced a Featherweight motor. I am not an expert. This is the first time I have serviced this type of motor. I offer, here, my experience in the hope that it will help. I have the adjuster's manual for this machine but the photos are dreadful and dark. First thing: I got the motor off the machine. When I checked out this project last weekend I resisted. Looking under the machine at the wiring deterred me. That big white wire is the lamp wire. It is encased in lead and the white stuff is oxidized lead flaking off and it flakes off everywhere. I resisted following Rain's suggestion to remove the lamp wire and scrub all that stuff off. I wish that I had just done it. I am going to do that next. YECH. So anyway, I just did not want to delve into this motor work because of these wires. But I had to. So, here follows how I did it. I did not start here, but as long as the photo is handy, I will explain that I loosened those two clamps freeing up the nasty lamp wire and the two motor leads. That allowed me some slack to work on removing the motor wires from the three pin terminal. I left the little motor lead clamp in place right there. I did remove it later but that is later. To get the belt off of the pulley on the motor you have to loosen the screw that secures the motor to the machine. See what I mean about all that nasty white stuff? Once this screw is loosened, lift the motor up and get the belt off. I took the screw all the way out to release the motor form the machine base. I put that screw back into its home on the motor to keep it safe. I then loosened the screw holding Mr. Three Pin Terminal in place. I gently pulled Mr. Three Pin Terminal away from the machine base to reveal the wires held in place with wire knobs. The motor wires go to 2 and 3; color coded. Lucky me. The knurled knob for #3 loosened easily. But number 2 needed persuading. I do not recommend what I did, but it worked. I ever so gently used my needle nose pliers to grasp the knob. I tried at first with some cloth covering the knob for protection. Then I just went for it straight on . It worked. But I think it is a bad idea. You could break those knobs. Younger folk might have stronger fingers and not need the pliers. Perhaps a piece of leather over the pliers would have worked as well. Once both wires were free of Mr. Three Pin Terminal I fastened Mr. TPT back onto the machine. This is when I loosened the clamps holding the nasty lamp wire and the motor wires. I also, because I am somewhat anal, put some red tape on the #3 motor lead. Hey, I need all the visual clues I can get. This helped me stay organized. I realize that the wire itself is red, but I wanted to be really really sure. And I like marking wire with electrical tape. It feeds my inner child. Then I pulled the wires through the opening on the machine base and freed the motor. I was very careful as I threaded the wires through that opening. It is quite roomy, but I just wanted to be gentle to these 64 year old fixtures. I then removed the brushes. The brushes are worn down with the friction of rubbing on the commutator and they like to return home the way they were. Otherwise the motor just has to wear them down anew. So I marked how they came out with notes to myself on paper and taped the brush to the paper. Here you can see the contour of the motor brush And here you can see that I have a good half inch left on this brush. Now I thought that I should replace these brushes as a matter of course. I had occasion to talk to Mr. Glenn Williams (http://pages.suddenlink.net/joyof301s/glenn.htm) and he advised that I leave the brushes. He told me that of the 2800 221s that he has had pass through his hands, only three machines needed new brushes. I did scrub them with denatured alcohol, however. Someone told me firing them with a blow torch works to clean them too. I like the alcohol approach. Next I removed the screws holding the motor housing in place And then I shimmied the fiber insulation as far down the motor leads as I could toward the wire rings I admit I did try to pry the motor housing apart at this point. When it did not separate, I remembered reading about removing the pulley. There is a set screw on the pulley that needs loosening: The pulley can then be removed and the housing gently pulled apart to reveal the armature and a very nifty underwriter's knot (circled) I had to loosen that knot to gently remove the armature from the field coils. I was VERY careful. These motors are not cheap to replace. They aren't making any more of them . What a dirty armature it is. I was very careful to secure the washers. There is a fiber washer that belongs on the shaft near the commutator. And two others, one a fiber washer, on the shaft at the other end of the armature. These came off when I pulled the armature. I was lucky that I did not lose them. Especially the fiber washer. I have a feeling they might be hard to replace. I cleaned the commutator with a pencil eraser and this nifty honing stick I bought from Ray White (http://www.whitesewingcenter.com/tools.php) I love a clean armature!!!! Once it was all cleaned I reversed the steps to put it back together. This is a shot of the inside of the field coil. I did clean this out gently being very careful not to disturb the soldered connections to the ends of the brush tubes Then making sure that the fiber washer was in place I eased the armature back into the field coil. I realize that the copper windings on this armature do not look clean. I promise that they are. I think that these windings, like the windings on the 201-2 motor , were varnished at the factory Once the armature was back in place I gently tightened the underwriter's knot and eased the motor housing back into place. Then I replaced the screws. I did have some trouble getting the screw near the underwriter's knot to slide in easily. I had to adjust the wires some. If I had tried to tighten the screw down on top of that wire I could have created one huge disaster. Once the motor was securely reassembled, I replaced the pulley. The pulley is held on with a set screw and the screw must sit in the flat on the shaft. The flat is easily identified by the flat on the end of the shaft I replaced the brushes next being very careful to place them in the brush tubes (which I had cleaned out with a q-tip) exactly as I had taken them out. It helped that I had taped them to a piece of paper. I only had to pop them back in. ( I had already cleaned them with denatured alcohol) Then I shimmied the insulation back up toward the motor and eased the wires back into the opening on the machine base. I did fasten the motor to the machine base after I did this, just to hold things stable. I reattached the motor leads to Mr. TPT. Then I removed the wire clamp. I tried to put the motor leads back in the clamp without removing it but it was too difficult. There was a fiber "lining" that wrapped around the wires underneath the clamp. I really could not position it correctly without removing it and making some adjustments. Once I had the clamp back in place and secure, I then tightened the clamp holding the nasty lamp wire. It is not exactly as it was at the beginning, but it is good enough for an amateur. I can make some adjustments and perhaps get the other "red" wire tucked up more neatly. I have to remove the lamp to clean the lead casing so I bet that will get tighter once I have done that.
Give your Featherweight a
Give your Featherweight a
Happy Friday! Today I want to share this travel set I made for the thrifted Singer Featherweight 221K sewing machine! In case you missed it, earlier this year I had the thrift find of my dreams! I found a Vintage Singer Featherweight 221K sewing machine at my local Goodwill! For the full story, see this post: Thrifting a White Singer Featherweight 221K As it happens, I already had a white featherweight of my own when I found that one. Obviously I didn't want to leave it behind, but I decided pretty quickly that I shouldn't keep it. Lucky for me, my Mom had just mentioned she was going to set herself up to sew in the living room and was going to use a little machine. So, I gave the thrifted featherweight to my Mom for Mother's Day! Giving her this machine was the perfect excuse to make a travel set for it! I used my Sew Portable Travel Set Pattern, which includes a tote bag, extension table cover and a drawstring bag for holding the foot pedal and cord. For the main fabric I used this floral fabric that I found at the Goodwill Outlet store. It seemed appropriate!! I took this project as an opportunity to adjust the extension table cover to fit the 221K's shorter table. I've updated the pattern to include this modification. The original table cover for the black 221 machines is still included in the pattern. I also just generally refreshed the pattern, giving it a layout similar to my newer patterns. I'm glad I took the time to do that! On 221K machines the power cord and foot pedal are permanently connected to the machine. This makes the drawstring bag even more needed! We don't want them to scratch up the machine bed. The accent and lining fabrics I used were all from my stash, all chosen to coordinate with the main floral. This is the fourth travel set I've made! See the others here: Nordika Sew Portable Travel Set Dreamin' Vintage Sew Portable Travel Set Sewing with Singer Sew Portable Travel Set Pattern: Sew Portable Travel Set Pattern by me Fabrics: thrifted quilting cotton, mauvelous pure solid by art gallery fabrics*, peppered cotton by studio e* Notions: 1 1/4" cotton webbing, binder's board*, cotton twill tape Happy Sewing!
This particular Featherweight is definitely in the category of Rare. Economists know there is a distinctive difference between Rare and Scarce. One is limited quantities and the other is limited available resources with which to obtain ... so in all honesty, this machine falls into both categories! At the 1940 World's Fair held in San Francisco very few Singer Featherweight machines were promotionally badged with the Golden Gate emblem. As you'll see at first glance it looks very, very similar to the Centennial badge frequently seen but has the engraved title "Golden Gate Exposition San Francisco 1940". A customer sent this machine to me on consignment a couple of weeks ago. I just finished taking photographs for an interested client but thought I would share the love by showing this unique Featherweight 221 for everyone to see.
From 1933 to 1969, this timeline provides a detailed history of the Singer Featherweight 221, 222 and all the details surrounding this Singer Sewing Machine....
One of our most popular sewing products! Reproduction of the classic Singer Featherweight Folding Card Table to fit the 221 Singer Featherweight as well as the larger 301 Singer Sewing Machines. The Featherweight table may also be ordered for the 301 long or short bed machines. Then you can use a 221 or a short bed 301 in a long bed table by simply sliding them to the left. Use all three machines in the same table! A Featherweight collectors dream come true! Read more below >
Readers, I was this close to buying a vintage Singer 401A sewing machine at the flea market yesterday. The dealer was asking $80, but I'm...
Service Manual for the Singer Model 221, 221-1, 221K, 221J ~ the SINGER FEATHERWEIGHT! Printed and ready for your convenience. You can use this for the Singer 222 as well -- most all of the information will apply. We’ve seen many of these offered but most are just copies of copies with poor quality printing. The one you will receive is a high quality facsimile directly reproduced from an original - which we obtained from an old Singer Sewing Machine Technician, 50 years in the business. As you can see from the photographs above, this is just a simple paper replica facsimile for your personal reference so that you can learn how to service your Singer Featherweight. Go beyond just the oiling and learn the mechanics, electrical, wiring, gears, tuning, timing and so much more! We offer these to our Singer Featherweight Care classes because the information is invaluable. The Service Manual also expands further with electrical explanation and includes the expanded view of all parts that comprise a Singer Featherweight 221. Printed on 8 1/2" x 11" paper for easy viewing.
From 1933 to 1969, this timeline provides a detailed history of the Singer Featherweight 221, 222 and all the details surrounding this Singer Sewing Machine....
Is your machine skipping stitches, or looping strangely after it was sewing just perfectly moments before? Most all stitch problems on a Singer Featherweight have...
This is available for sale as a print, please contact Justin at [email protected] for details!
Bobbin Case for Old Style Featherweight Sewing Machines - Singer #45750rnPart Number: 45750rnMACHINE COMPATIBILITY:rnAlphasew Models: 221Singer Models: 221, Featherweight, 221-1, 222, 301, 301A, 491UTTrnBobbin Class: Featherweight Bobbin Material: Metal
Authentic Vintage SINGER SIMANCO Edge Stitcher mod. 36865 Sewing Machine Foot Attachment. In very good condition, as you can see in the photos. Some scratches here and there. Works like a treat. For all Low Shank Sewing Machines e.g. SINGER Featherweight 221k, 222k, 15, 15k, 27, 28, 66, 66k, 99, 99k, 185, 127, 128, 185k, 192, 201, 201k, 206, 237, 306, 319, 319k, 320, 328 and all other Brands, Low Shank Sewing Machines models. Fits in place of standard presser foot. This combined Edge-Stitching, Lace-Joining and Piping attachment must be kept accurately on the extreme edge of the material. The slots are guides for sewing together laces, insertions and embroideries, sewing in position hemmed or folded edges, piping or sewing flat braid to a garment. The distance of the line of stitching from the edge of the material in the slots, can be regulated by pushing the blue spring lug to the right or the left. Further instructions can be found in the Attachments Section of the machine's User’s Manual.
