Learn how to make a simple fabric basket with this FREE sewing pattern! Available in 2 sizes. Today I'm going to show you how easy it is to make your own reusable fabric basket with this sewing tutorial. Below you'll find a link where you can click and get a copy of the pattern totally
A classy tote bag purse with hand carrying straps and a removable shoulder strap. A large outside pocket with snap keeps your essentials on hand. Inside there
I am OBSESSED with this bag! I love the way it has the shape of a fabric bin, but is really a drawstring bag with handles. The best part is all the things I can carry in the bag. I...
You can sew a tote bag with flat bottom and lining and it is quicker and easier than you might think! Make a custom tote bag!
For those of you who follow Sew Very Crafty you know that I love to make bags. This is a terrific travel bag with pockets that is perfect for overnight or any
Make a fabric basket with a drawstring closure. Perfect to use for carrying sewing accessories ~ Threading My Way
Learn how to make a tote bag for all types of travel with this tutorial for a Large Tote with Rounded Opening. This big bag can handle everything you need to carry on your next trip, and it's cute too. A perfect addition to any fashionista's wardrobe, this bright and sunny staple looks like a million bucks, but costs next to nothing to make. This chic, summery design is so incredibly easy to make, so whether you've been sewing for years or you're just getting started, you can create this DIY tote bag with no trouble at all.
This Sewing Caddy Organizer is designed to organize sewing supplies but can also be used to organize anything you like. The fabrics used in the featured organized as well as the free pattern are from Robert Kaufman. The finished measurements of … Read More
"Help the environment by saying good-bye to plastic bags and saying hello to your own sewn bag that is not only unique, but will last a long time and is also durable for heavy groceries, books or whatever you wish to carry. This bag also has a floor which is extra supported with a strong piece of fabric covered chipboard to make it even stronger. An illustrated tutorial takes you through all the steps to make this bag."
It's that time to be super happy, you've finished your bag, almost everything is done. The zippers are in, the pockets are just perfect for what you need, the
This Sewing Caddy Organizer is designed to organize sewing supplies but can also be used to organize anything you like. The fabrics used in the featured organized as well as the free pattern are from Robert Kaufman. The finished measurements of … Read More
Looking for a sewing case for holding your sewing and crafting supplies? We have a great FREE pattern for you here! Check out this carry along sewing case free sewing tutorial.
New bag sewing patterns and an online video course teaching you how to make bags. Learn to make Alice Bag, round bag by Melissa Mortenson
The Henley Crossbody Purse that comes in two sizes is a fun sewing project for a stylish and practical purse that can be worn either on the shoulder or
This is the easiest DIY cross-body bag sewing pattern you will find. You can easily make it from a rectangular piece of fabric.
Purses, totes, and shoulder bags--we have all the free bag patterns you need! Browse more than 50 ideas for stylish accessories.
Sometimes only the best will do and we think this awesome wallet pattern from NapKitten will blow your mind!
The season of all things spooky and trick or treating is almost upon us! We are back with another sewing tutorial and this time we are making the Trick or Treat Carry Along Bag! Great for storing candy, goodies and much more, this little bag is sure to be a hit this Halloween.
Please note: This is a downloadable PDF sewing pattern. You will not receive anything except the PDF pattern file which will be available immediately upon checkout. The perfect look for your everyday style, this small bag includes a trimmed zippered pocket, a zippered main compartment and an interior slip pocket. Vinyl, cork or any other heavy non-fraying fabric is necessary for the contrasting fabric. For more photos, visit swoonpatterns.com Needed: 1/3 yard 44” wide quilting weight exterior fabric 1/2 yard 44” wide quilting weight lining fabric 1/4 yard (or fat quarter) heavy vinyl or cork contrasting fabric 1/2 yard foam interfacing (Pellon Flexfoam FF77) 1/2 yard fusible web (Pellon Wonder Under 805) 1/8 yard fusible heavy stabilizer (Pellon Peltex 71F) 2 yards fusible woven interfacing (Pellon Shapeflex SF101) 12” all-purpose zipper (main compartment) 5” all-purpose zipper (zippered pocket) Acrylic leather/vinyl paint (optional; to seal/color raw vinyl edges) Fabric glue (Beacon Fabritac) Coordinating thread Dimensions: 12″ wide, 8″ tall, 6″ deep Skill level: Intermediate
The Carry It All Tote and other cool tips & tricks for moms - The Labeled Life
Lots of free sewing patterns with easy step by step tutorials for beginners. How to sew quilts, bags, pouches, leggings, and more!
Here's a classic crossbody bag sewing pattern with adjustable strap, smart piping details and an optional flap or magnetic snap closure, both options in the
These cute round storage baskets have three types of interfacing to help them hold their slightly soft shape. Mix basic burlap with pretty cotton for a unique decorator style. The lining is fussy cut so they’re pretty inside and out.
I thought it would be fun to do a Slouchy Summer Bag – and this one is super quick!! I did it in under 4 hours – so you could make up your bag in the morning and carry it to your beach party or picnic that evening! It’s a cute lace Hobo bag with a ... Read More about 4 Hour Slouchy Summer Hobo Bag
This purse organizer insert with adjustable divider is perfect for keeping your belongings organized when traveling, or even for use as an everyday organizer.
It’s Friday, yay! The weekend is finally here and to kick it off right we’re here to Spotlight this incredible Quilted Accordion Pouch from Sew4Home! The right pouch can make your life easier in a
The Elina backpack is a classic-looking backpack with a touch of modernity made with students in mind or casual carriers. The bag offers plenty of space for books and other school essentials and its wide mouth means you can easily access the contents of the bag. Time To Complete: 1 hour 30 minutesDifficulty: Intermediate What You Will Need to DIY Your Own Elina Backpack Sewing Pattern Exterior fabric Lining fabric Zipper Interfacing Snap Ring Thread Cotton Fusible interfacing Tag Needle Home deco The multiple pockets are perfect for organizing items especially if you intend to be carrying multiple items. While the bag appeals to students mostly, it can also be used by men and women and makes for a great diaper bag as well. For sewers looking for a new sewing project, this bag pattern is worth the try. It’s convenient, stylish and comes in two sizes so you can make the one that is most practical for you. The pattern features actual size patterns that make the task of making the bag easier and you get all the instructions you need to make different parts of the bag including the backstrap and elastic pocket.
Shelby Satchel is a fun crossover messenger style bag.The bag contains two front pockets, two back pockets, one zipped coin pocket and one padded tablet pocket. This versatile bag is perfect for men and women. Finished size 11-1/2in x 9in x 2in. Hardware kit: includes 2 Magnetic Snaps, 2 Handle Oblongs, 2 Front Buckles, 1 Handle Slide.
When you browse online, what catches your eye? Beautifully crafted DIY fabric baskets stop me in my tracks. NOW 18 homemade fabric baskets here to see!
Have you ever wondered how perfectly topstitch your bags? Dianna shares some awesome tips with us so you too can achieve amazing results.
It's about time that I shared my quilted tote bag I made for the Pacific Northwest Modern Quilt Guild Meet-Up in Portland...otherwise known as PNW MQG PDX Meet-up. Everyone who signed up for the swap was given some denim fabric that had been donated from Robert Kaufmann for the event. (I think others got to choose their denim at a guild meeting, but since I'm in the middle of no where, they just mailed me half a yard or so. We were asked to make a tote bag using the denim and any other fabrics we wanted to make a "modern" tote. I wanted to do something quick and easy (why does that rarely end up being quick and easy?) so I thought I'd pull out my 2 1/2 inch scraps, chain them together in rainbow order, insert them into the fabric in random stripes, and sew up the bag. Well, I didn't have as many fabrics in my 2 1/2 inch strips as I remembered...so I decided to cut some more...and I kept finding fabrics in my stash that just HAD to go into the rainbow. All told I ended up with 86 different fabrics although not all of the fabrics ended up in the bag itself (since some of them were in the scraps of the fabric that didn't end up in the bag. I sewed them into one long chain in rainbow order. Then I started making slices into my denim and sewing in the rainbow strip. I'm typically not much of a pinner, but I found that if I didn't pin, then the stripes didn't end up lining up across from each other. I just kept going, slicing and sewing until I had strips going every which way with different colors overlapping. I basically ended up with a bigger piece of pieced fabric to make my bag out of. (Isn't he handsome...and a good sport. He watched the kids all day while I worked on my bag.) I looked through the Tote Bag Pinterest page. I was inspired by the large outside pocket on this one. I used the overall shape and instructions from here, although I changed the shape a bit as well. The directions were pretty good and as much as it would have been fun to include a zippered pouch or something, I just didn't feel up to it. The bag ended up taking me about a day and a half longer to make than I thought it would. (A good reminder of why I prefer sewing quilts to clothes I suppose.) I started ot with some really detailed quilting and then had to go with some less dense quilting on the other side because it was simply going to take way too long. But in the end, I love how it turned out. It was actually pretty hard to part with...but I hoped it would go to someone who would love it. This is the side with the big pocket. You can't tell from the picture, but there's a line sewn to make two pockets on the front, one bigger and one smaller. And this is the side without a pocket. There is also a pocket inside that I forgot to take a picture of. That pocket is toward the top, so a cell phone or keys could go in it without getting lost at the bottom of the bag. We weren't asked to put anything inside, but I decided to include some items that represent me as a quilter, so here's what I tossed in... A little bundle of I-Spy Fabrics, 1/4 yard cut of one of my favorite black and white fabrics from Sisters and Quilters, a necklace from Boutique Academia to show my geeky side, and a graph ruled composition book for jotting down quilting ideas and calculations. (Turns out great minds think alike because we got a graph ruled composition book in our swag bags too.) Then at the last minute, I decided to throw in a few other things too. A package of Heat'n Bond because I use it a lot to applique, and piece of freezer paper for stenciling, and a little card with the Portland Temple because it inspired my very favorite quilt I've ever made. Then I tucked it inside a brown paper sack, and stapled it shut. A sweet lady named Catherine got it, and I was happy to have it go to someone so friendly and nice. And here is the awesome bag that I got to bring home with me. It was made by Kate of the Seattle Modern Quilt Guild. I've been using it every day. :) Please show my sponsors some love... Spring House/Queen Anne fabric from You Keep Me in Stitches Dr. Seuss Fat Quarter Bundle from Sisters and Quilters Modern Black and Gold Hexies Baby Quilt from Pieces by Polly I'll be linking to:
It's been about a year and a half since I started sewing on a regular basis again, and while I've tried lots of different projects, I've learned that one of my favorite things to make is bags. There's something so amazing about making a purse exactly the way you want it to be, and with all of the great fabric and hardware out there, it can look just as good as (and in some cases, even better than) what you can find at the store. I personally love the look of a structured bag, but it can be a little more time consuming than your average tote. My first experience with this style was with my Retro Library Case, and then later I tackled the infamous Weekender. Lately, I've done some more experimenting with my Patchwork Bag and Mosaic Bag, and this week I finally put together a tutorial for making this version, which I'm calling my Timber Mosaic Bag. For this one I used fabric from the gorgeous Timber and Leaf collection by Sarah Watts which paired perfectly with the leather yarn dyed essex linen I've been saving. I love how the linen reminds me of wood grain against these prints. The inside of the bag is a light blue print by Denyse Schmidt, and the interior pocket matches the patchwork on the front. This one is large enough to carry a few books along with my usual necessities. Because this bag is larger, I divided my back pocket into three sections this time. I adore that bear on the back! A pine cone charm that I bought on sale at Anthropologie was the perfect finishing touch for the zipper. A few notes before we start the tutorial... This version is larger than my first attempt, coming in at 13" square rather than the 9" square original. It also uses three inch squares for the patchwork instead of the more involved 1.5" squares I used to make the mosaic on my first one. I added a pocket to the inside of this bag as well. These are all details that can be easily adjusted depending on what you want your bag to look like. I find that when you're making a bag with a gusset (that's the material that joins the front and back panels together to make the sides), you have to be willing to go with the flow and keep checking your pieces as you sew to be sure that everything is going to fit right. If mistakes happen -- and they do -- don't panic. You can usually fix things easily by folding material (if a piece is too big) or sewing in an extra piece (if it's too small). While this type of bag can look rather difficult (they scared me to death when I attempted my first one), it's really a pretty straightforward construction job. Just take it a step at a time. MATERIALS Cotton prints (9) assorted 3" squares for patchwork front (1) 8 x 13" for exterior pocket (2) 13" sqares for interior panels (1) 6 x 12" for interior pocket (2) 3 x 23" for zipper lining pieces (1) 5 x 30" for gusset lining (2) 2.5 x 50" for inside binding Linen (2) 3 x 8" & (2) 3 x 13" for patchwork frame on front exterior panel (1) 13" square for back exterior panel (2) 2.5 x 20" for handles (1) 4.5 x 13" for exterior pocket (2) 3 x 23" for exterior zipper pieces (1) 5 x 30" for exterior gusset Quilt batting or fusible batting (if using regular batting, you'll need an adhesive basting spray glue) (1) 6 x 13" for exterior pocket (1) 8" square for patchwork (2) 13" squares for front and back panels (2) 3 x 23" for exterior zipper pieces (1) 5 x 30" for exterior gusset Sew-in heavy interfacing (I use Peltex 70) (2) 13" squares for front and back panels Lighter interfacing (I use Pellon 808 Craft Fuse) (2) 2.5 x 20" for handles (1) 6" square for interior pocket (2) for zipper lining pieces (1) 5 x 30" for gusset lining 24" zipper coordinating thread Clover clips or clothespins 1. Sew together the 3" patchwork squares in a 3 x 3 grid using a 1/4" seam allowance. Attach the patchwork piece to the 8" batting square with basting spray and quilt as desired. Add the 3 x 8" and 3 x 13" linen strips to frame the patchwork using a 1/4" seam allowance. Attach the front panel to the 13" square of batting with basting spray. Quilt 1/4" and 1/2" from the outside edge of the patchwork square. 2. Sew the 4.5 x 13" linen and 8 x 13" cotton print together along a 13" side so that the cotton print is at the top of the piece when they are joined. Fold the cotton print back, wrong sides together, making the top of the cotton print even with the bottom of the linen, forming the outer pocket piece (see photo). Sandwich the 6 x 13" piece of batting between the folded layers and stitch 1/4" below the line where the two fabrics meet and 1/4" below the fold itself. Attach batting to the 13" linen square for the back panel with adhesive spray. Baste the pocket in place along the bottom edge of the back panel about 1/4" from the edge. Sew one or two lines down the pocket to divide it into sections if desired. 3. Make the interior pocket. Fold the 6 x 12" cotton print piece in half (wrong sides together) so the fold is on the top. Iron the 6 x 6" square of light interfacing to one side, trim the edges, and stitch around the open edges, leaving a large enough opening in the bottom for turning. Turn right side out, press, and topstitch 1/4" from the fold. Tuck in the bottom edges, press, and pin it in place on one of the 13" interior panels, centered and about 3" from the top. Stitch 1/4" from the edges, leaving top open and backstitching at both ends. 4. Finish the outer panels. Attach the 13" heavy sew-in interfacing and interior lining pieces to the front and back panels with basting spray, making certain that each panel has a linen piece showing on the exterior side and the cotton lining print on the interior side (double check twice if you're using directional prints!). Baste 1/4" from the edge all the way around both panels. 5. Make the handles. Fuse the light interfacing to both 2.5 x 20" linen pieces. Fold each piece in half (with interfacing on the inside), press, unfold. Fold the long edges to meet at the center fold, press, fold in half again, and press. Stitch 1/8" from each long side of the handle. Position a handle on the exterior of each panel with the raw ends poking up about 1/4" over the top edge and with the outside edge of each strap about 3.5" from the outside edge of the panel. Stitch 1/4" from the top edge of the bag over each strap to keep them in place while you work. 6. Make the zipper portion of the gusset. Cut off the ends of the zipper (keeping the sliding pull in the middle!) so that it measures 23". Fuse light interfacing to the zipper and gusset lining pieces and, and use adhesive spray to attach the batting to the linen for the exterior zipper and gusset pieces. Stack from bottom to top: cotton zipper lining (right side up), zipper (right side up), and linen zipper exterior piece (right side down) -- lining them up along one long end of each piece (see photo). Stitch 1/4" from the edge -- use a zipper foot if you like, though I just use my 1/4" foot for this. Fold back the linen and lining so that the wrong sides are together and press. Stitch 1/2" quilting lines from the zipper to the edge of the fabric. Repeat this process with the pieces for the other side of the zipper. 7. Attach the rest of the gusset. Stack from bottom to top: gusset lining (right side up), zipper piece (exterior linen up), and gusset linen exterior (right side down), matching up the raw ends (see photo). Stitch 1/2" from the end. Flip the gusset pieces so that the wrong sides are facing each other and stitch 1/2" from the end of the zipper (see photo). Repeat on the other side of the zipper and gusset after first checking the length of your pieces around one of the panels. Make sure you're happy with how things are lining up before you attach the rest of the gusset to make the full joining circle. Quilt the gusset in 1/2" lines that match those on the zipper piece. If you need to take up slack in the gusset due to quilting, just fold the extra fabric and stitch over it. 8. Use Clover clips or clothespins to clip the gusset in place on one panel, centering the zipper on the top of the bag panel so that the ends fall as evenly as possible on the sides. Sew 1/2" all around the bag. Go slowly and carefully, keeping the rest of the bag out of the way as much as possible while you sew. Repeat on the other side, making sure that the zipper is at least half open before you start! Trim the edges down to about 1/4", cutting carefully so that you don't accidentally cut into the panels or gusset. 9. Take both 2.5 x 50" strips, fold them in half lengthwise (wrong sides together), and press them. Take one piece and sew the ends of the strip together to make a full circle, then do the same with the other. Use this to bind the interior raw edges just as you would the edge of a quilt (see my links page if you need help with the binding process). Turn the bag right side out, press, and enjoy! Thanks for sticking with me through the endless journey that is a tutorial! If you have any questions, feel free to leave a comment here or email me any time at [email protected]. If you make one for yourself, I'd LOVE to see it. You can upload pictures of your bag -- or anything else you've made from one of my tutorials -- to my blog's flickr group here. Happy sewing! Linking up to Fabric Tuesday & Sew Cute Tuesday.
Tandem DayPack pattern only Bag Dimensions: 9.5"wide X 6.5"tall X 2.5" Why shop all over for supplies? Click HERE to add a Tandem DayPack Supply Kit to your cart! (at a nifty discount price!)
Here's a FREE pdf sewing pattern inspired by vintage box purses from the 1940s.
Using the correct interfacing -and the correct application of it - can be the difference between a "home-made" and "hand-made" bag. Here are a few hints for success... 1. Use good quality interfacing. Cheap interfacing is often more trouble than it's worth. 2. You need a good iron. One with a lot of heat and steam, and a reliable thermostat. I don't have any particular recommendations (but I'd love to hear if you do). I go through loads of irons, and the only recommendation I have is "don't spend less than $60" (AUD). 3. Remember that lighter interfacings are more heat-sensitive than heavy interfacing. Light to medium-light interfacings don't like more than a COTTON setting on your iron - otherwise they'll shrivel up and wrinkle your fabric. Heavier interfacings like a HOT HOT HOT iron, lots of PRESSURE.... and STEAM is also highly effective (I don't care what the books say). 4. Press your fabric before you fuse interfacing to it. Failure to do this may result in unwanted permanent wrinkles!! (Perhaps that's what happened to my FACE...???). 5. Double-check that you have the GLUE side down to the back of the fabric. It's usually shiny or grainy. A plastic feel. If it's the the wrong way around you'll either make a mess of your iron or interface your pressing cloth. 6. Use a Rajah Cloth to protect heat-sensitive fabrics from the iron when you're pressing heavy interfacing to it. I often use (an old) one under the fabric and (a new) one over the back of the interfacing - this protects the fabric, the ironing board and the iron! 7. Press in a DOWNWARD direction. Don't slide your iron around while you're pushing down on it, or the interfacing might move and fuse in the wrong place. Hold the iron down for 5-10 seconds before gliding it gently to the next unfused area... hold it down again. Shoot steam through if it's being particularly obstinate and refusing to stick. If you see bubbles like this... STEAM AND PRESS them down!!!8. Once the interfacing is stuck into place, give the fabric a really good press from the right side. This will iron out any remaining bubbles and smooth the surface of the fabric. 9. If you do a LOT of interfacing, you might consider something like an Elna Press. (I bought mine on Ebay for $76 (!!) but they can be pretty pricey if you buy them new). They make it SUPER-EASY to fuse evenly.... you press your fabric, line up the interfacing.... Rajah Cloth if necessary.... ...close the lid... ....see the difference (below) between the fused and un-fused bits..? You have to move larger pieces around a little to get all the area covered. Close the lid again, then ... oooh-ahhh... nice and flat! I have to add at this point, that despite having made my living from making clothing, hats and bags for close to twenty years, I only bought the Elna Press this year. I'm still in the honeymoon stage with it!!!
(that fits in your purse or car or pocket or suitcase or briefcase or gym bag, or backpack, or carry-on... Thanks everyone for your emails, Yes I would love to make one for all of you that use essential oils, and though I'd LOVE to have that kind of ambition, I figured it's best to give you a DIY tutorial. I'm so glad though to hear about everyone that loves their oils! I figured out the easiest route (I think) to make this...It's infinitely easier than the first one I made, which had me pulling out my hair. So that's grand! IT WILL HOLD TWENTY-TWO BOTTLES! (unlike the one below) So first of all, you can buy 24 of the 5/8 dram bottles HERE for $8. And to buy the bottle cap stickers (the labels), go HERE and then click SHOP FOR PRODUCTS and then type in search: BOTTLE CAP STICKERS. And go ahead a do some oil shopping if you're in the market. Or if you're going to buy the bottles, you can buy 154 blank white cap stickers HERE for under a dollar. I figured that this travel case is worth it because I don't have to risk loosing my large oil bottles AND I won't have to cart them around either. (I've also been known to put stuff on top of my car and drive away...and it's always expensive stuff- never a water bottle or anything). K- so you'll need 1/8th" Elastic Sheet of craft foam some fabric and an iron and lets just go from there: (umm also sewing machine and thread? Okay okay, you got it). Cut your foam to a 7 inch by 7 inch square. Cut your fabric to a 15.5 by 8.5 rectangle. Fold your fabric in half so it's basically a square and then iron that seam. Now you have two sides. One side will be the INSIDE and one the OUTSIDE. The inside where the oils will be and the outside that's visible when it's closed. Got it? On the back of the fabric, line the foam square up on that newly ironed seam (and in the center of that one side-so there's about a 1/2" edge around the foam square). *** Pin it like so: Don't pin the edge of the foam that's lined up with the ironed seam. The foam side will be the INSIDE of the travel case. Now COMPLETELY FORGET about the other side of the fabric for awhile- The side that the foam IS NOT pinned to: (except keeping it out of the way so it doesn't accidentally get sewn while we continue!) Now sew the unpinned edge of foam (thats against the ironed seam). When sewing any edges, get it pretty close to the edge and remember to keep it the same distance every time you sew edges here. Now sew the other three sides of the square keeping the fabric pinned and taunt. Then fold the foam in half really hard so there's a visible line. Now sew down that line. THIS IS NOW OUR CENTER LINE. I flipped it over BELOW so you can see the sewn square and the CENTER LINE down the middle. The foam side is the INSIDE of the travel case. This is where the bottles will be Now you pick one of the two sides of the foam to be where the oil bottles will go. I picked the oils to go on the section where my fingers are because I love the fun blue swirl and I don't want to cover it up with the oil bottles. Either side can hold the oils but remember that you want the top of the lids to face that CENTER LINE. Maybe it will be easier to show you when I fold the fabric under where it is going to go. Now pick a side for your oils to go (if your fabric is an even pattern you don't even have to worry about this I guess but I'm going to put the oils on this white flower side and make sure the lids face the CENTER LINE). Now take the elastic Measure an inch up from the bottom stitched line of the side you picked, sew the elastic to the left side stitch. Now place your bottle there and wrap around/under the closed lid. press the elastic down. and sew the elastic there too. DON'T MAKE IT WAY TIGHT. It will hold it there without it being stretched much, just barely a little stretch given. It's better to have it not stretchy than too stretched and tight. (the bottle I'm using above is not a 2ml bottle which is why I left more space below the bottle because the ones that WILL be used will be slightly longer.) YAY! FIRST LOOP IS DONE! Place the bottle and do it again. If you need to get a ruler out and make sure it's always an inch above the bottom stitch, it might help. When you get to the end, plan on 11 loops. Then cut off the excess elastic. Nope haven't trimmed a single piece of thread yet :) NOW do the top row of loops. REMEMBER that the lids come above the loops so make room for the bottles and lids. See the back of the foam? That's why we haven't folded over the fabric yet, we didn't want this showing. NOW you can fold the fabric over and pull it a little taunt and pin it and double seam sew all around the 3 edges. CHOICE: I took large double folded bias tape and made a nice edge all around it! It really polishes it up, but make sure to NOT sew the loops on accident into the bias tape...(did it obviously). Then I found my CENTER LINE and sewed down it one last time to help with the fold of the case. Close it how you want it! With bows, or a button! YAYZERS! NOW YOU HAVE: Toodles.
