A photographic directory of free sewing patterns available on the web, compiled by Jane Blogs
V neck blouses can look like a hot mess if you don't take care when sewing them. Here's my quick tips for to sew a perfect v neck every time!
A contemporary couturier shares techniques for making neat, narrow finishes on sheer and lightweight fabrics.
Click here for the online workshop option (suitable for beginners & intermediate sewers). Our Worker Trousers are the ultimate everyday trouser and our best selling pattern. They are supremely practical with hundreds of you saying they're your comfiest trousers yet. Designed to stand the test of time, you'll be using high end finishing techniques to create a really long lasting pair of trousers. Sizing: UK Sizes 4 - 28 (with PDF Layers) Skill level: Intermediate sewers (you will need extra focus for the fly area). If you're an ambitious beginner or tentative intermediate we recommend following our online workshop. You can search instagram for customer makes with the hashtag #msworkertrousers
Aren’t these adorable? I made one and a friend made the other. The pattern is called “Pockets To Go” by Atkinson Designs. They are sewing supply organizers and can hold all sort…
Learn how to finish a seam the neat way - This is an easy sewing tip how to secure and hide your thread ends. It's for when you'd like your projec ...
Take your sewing projects to the next level using these sewing tips and tricks.
Now that so many of you have coverstitch machines, I thought I’d rerun this tutorial from 2001. This is a very easy and neat (yes, I love my sewing to be neat and tidy!) way to finish a knit.…
Learn the secret to tying a knot at the end of your embroidery thread.
Advance 8190; ca. 1957; Misses' Blouse. "Switchabout Blouse" - Suitable for Lightweight Jersey Only. Wear it with High Cowl Neckline in front, wrapped low V-closing in the back. Reverse to wrapped V-neckline in front and the high neck draped in back. Slip into blouse either way and wrap cummerbund tie ends around your waistline. Instructions and numbers to make this pattern on studiofaro-wellsuited.blogspot RedPointTaylor blog GASP Athenaeum PDF Small [insert your photos of this pattern made up]
http://www.surprisediy.com/diy-495.html
Used on lightweight or delicate fabrics, a rolled hem creates a small, neat, turned hem. This tutorial shows you three ways to sew a rolled hem.
i don’t know what it is about this time of year that makes me just want to have my bare feet in the sand, be watching the sun setting into the ocean, and breathing in the warm salty air of the beach… as i get older, more and more i find myself missing that place […]
When you want to keep a seamed edge sharp and clean, you understitch the inside piece to the seam allowance so it won't roll to the outside along the edge seam and look all messy and unprofessional. Learn the steps.
The Doris Dress is the perfect summer’s day dress. Feminine and romantic, throw it on and you’ll be set for that picnic in the park, day out at the beach, or hey, even a stint at the office. A truly versatile wardrobe staple, the Doris Dress will keep you looking elegant and put-together no matter what you get up to this season. Inspired by Lisa’s love of vintage 1950’s fashion and pretty feminine shapes, the Doris Dress is semi-fitted with a flattering scooped neck bodice, bust pleats for delicate shaping and floaty grown-on sleeves. The waist can be left unfitted for warmer days, or cinched in at the back with the attached ties or fixed back belt. The fluted panelled skirt has two length variations – short and cute above the knee, or an elegant below the knee option. The Doris Dress closes with a concealed zip in the side seam and has an optional buttonhole closure at the centre front. The bodice is finished with facings for a neat finish on the inside. See what other people have been making in the Doris Dress Gallery or on Instagram with hastag #soidorisdress.
Do you ever go to the store with one project in mind, and leave with a totally different idea? That's how this project came to be. I went to Joann looking for a cute floral print. I'm usually pretty disappointed at Joann's selection and this time was no different. So I stumbled across the solids section and decided to get creative with some color blocking. Materials: A tank top/t-shirt in your size 3/4" Clear Elastic (about a yard give or take) Lightweight Cotton Fabric (1 yard -give or take- of each color) Optional 1 yard Muslin (for lining) Thread to match your trim fabric. Tutorial: Begin by trying on your tank/tee. Make a mark about 3/4 an inch below your natural waist. Cut straight across where you just made the mark. You can save the bottom portion of the tee as a guide for making more dresses. To determine how much elastic you'll need measure the width of the bottom of the tank. Take this number, multiply by 2 and add 0.5 i.e. My tank was 13" across so... 13 x 2 + 0.5 = 26.5" of elastic Stretch the elastic out a little bit and then lay the two ends on top of each other with about an inch of overlap. Sew so that you have a loop of elastic. Lay your elastic loop on the right side of the tank. Pin in place. The loop should be just a tad smaller than the tank. Sew with a stretch or zig-zag stitch, pulling the elastic lightly as you go. You want the (two) panels of your skirt to be 12" wider than the width of your tank. Cut as shown below. Cut along the fold so that you have two panels of fabric. The length of the dress will also depend on your body type and preference. Mine came to just right above my knee. I'll give you the measurements I used but keep in mind that I'm pretty tall at 5'9" and you may need to adjust for your size. Lavender- 16" Mint- 5.5" Teal 7" Sorry I forgot to photograph this but, for the two-toned I used 21" of my main fabric color (red/navy) and 8" of the trim (mint). Finish the edges of the strips if you'd like. Pin and sew If you don't care about having pockets, go ahead and skip the next few steps. But bear in mind that they're really not too much extra work, and soo worth it to have a place to put your hands, phone, etc. Fold your remaining trim fabric so that you have four layers of fabric on top of one another. Lay your hand down and free hand a pocket pattern. One side of the pocket should be a straight line. The rest doesn't really matter too much, kind of a slanty oval works best. Or you know, cut a heart valentine style and cut along the fold. Right sides together, pin the pockets 3 inches down from the top of each panel. You'll want to be as exact as possible so that everything lines up properly. Sew with a 1/4" inseam. Repeat. Repeat. Repeat. Iron the seams open. Now lay the panels, with pockets outstretched, right sides together. Take care to line up the trim at the bottom and everything else accordingly. Sew as shown. Use the iron to shape, and hey look, you just made pockets. Here's what you should have so far: Depending on your fabric, you might want to line the skirt. You can get away without on darker fabrics, but lighter fabrics are usually more transparent. I lined my red dress but not my navy. Cut two panels of muslin to the same dimensions as your panels. Sew together opposite sides with the same inseam as you did your skirt. Sew or serge the muslin layer and the skirt together as shown. They are only joined together by that top stitch. Set your straight stitch to the longest length setting and sew two gathering stitches (about 1/4" apart). Pull the top threads to create a nice, uniform gather. Now with the tank/tee right side out and the skirt wrong side out, insert the tank as shown. Pin the bottom of the tank to the top of the skirt. Sew (with a stretch or zig zag stitch) very carefully and slowly with a half inch inseam. Once you've gone full circle, go around once more for good measure. Finally hem the bottom and finish the lining. You may need to cut it about an inch shorter than the rest of the skirt so that it doesn't peak out. I like a wrinkled look so I twisted my skirt and squeezed tight to create a little texture. I love it without, but a belt or sash seems to really pull things together. Wouldn't this be cute with your team colors? I made an A&M one for a friend a few months back. ... Oh and if you're wondering what happened to the mint, teal, lavender combo.. I guess the iron was a little too hot. Do you see the print it left behind? Plus it made my seam pucker so much that I lost a good inch or two of width. I had such high hopes for it and I had worked so long and precisely. Oh well, maybe another day! ...
This group is for pictures of simple, fresh, modern quilts. I’m hoping to provide a inspiration resource for those of us who are impatiently waiting for a new book from Denyse Schmidt or for a new artist with her sensibility to emerge. Have a quilt that is fresh, offbeat, and modern? Add it to the group! If possible, please put information in the description of the photograph as to where the pattern or idea for the design came from. Not all photographs submitted to the group are approved and posted. Remember, if your photo is denied it's NOT because your quilt isn't beautiful! This pool is intended to be an edited collection aimed a particular aesthetic and not every quilt will fit (not even all of my personal creations!) Submit anything you think might fit and I will sort through the pictures. Feel free to text admin if you have any questions...and enjoy!
SKEINS: 3 (3, 3, 3, 4) (4, 4, 5, 5) skeins of Purl Soho’s Linen Quill SIZES: 34 (37¼, 41¼, 45¼, 49¼) (53¼, 57¼, 61¼, 65¼) TO FIT: 28–32 (31–35, 35–39, 39–43, 43–47) (47–51, 51–55, 55–59, 59–63) -inch chest with 2–6 inches of ease COLOR: Mountain Bluebird
I’ve long been an advocate of sewing with Tried ‘n True Patterns. Primarily because once you’ve got the fit down, it’s easy to make design changes to your pattern. It allows you to experiment with …
Follow this list of hacks to make your next sewing project easier!
Hello again! I can't believe it's been a week since I've posted! My summer is still in full swing around here and time gets away from me too fast. I hope all of you are enjoying your summer as much as I am. Today I wanted to show you the project that I took along with me on my camping trip. My project was inspired by a photo that I saw on Pinterest.... using 5" squares that are sewn together and then adding crochet. You know that I love to add crochet edgings on several of my fabric patterns so when I saw the photo...I was inspired and started immediately! I just kind of made up my blanket as I went along but I have now discovered that there is a tutorial by Corey@Little Miss Shabby and a flickr group and it's a crochet along as well! It's called the Fusion Blanket Crochet Along. Fabric/Crochet fused together = fun!!! I love the fact that I have been able to use up even more of my precut leftovers from Sew Cherry, Daisy Cottage and Millie's Closet. I chose to use "I Love This Cotton" yarn in 68 Aqua that I bought at Hobby Lobby. It's so soft and the color is yummy and goes with all of my fabrics...and is 100% cotton which is a big plus for me. I like to work with natural fibers as much as possible. I have several squares completed so far... they really work up fast. I did a single crochet into each buttonhole stitch and then a double crochet into each single crochet and that's all! Easy peasy. *Take note that on the corners...I did 3 stitches instead of one:) I love the scrappiness of my blanket... I put some of the squares up on my design wall together to see how they will look when I crochet them together. I will just use a single crochet stitch when joining them and I think I will leave the holes in the intersections...I like how it adds a lacy kind of look. Of course I will make the final decision on that when I join them all together:) I know that today is Tuesday... and week 5 of The Great Granny Along!!! I don't have anything new to show you yet...but Jodi has some new blocks...so go over and see them! All of the beautiful blocks and quilts that are showing up on the flickr group are just amazing!!! It's been so fun to see all of them over the last 5 weeks:) Next post...I will be showing you a sneak peek of my up coming fabric line. Until then...have a quilty kind of day:) xx Lori
Like Jess, I can tell you I am extremely intimidated by sewing with a serger. I'm fairly comfortable sewing with a basic machine but deciding to jump into a project with my serger was entirely out of my element. I'm a big planner and I feel relatively okay doing new things with the wealth of information you can gain by spending a few hours online. Learning the serger has not been so easy. I want to say I read the manual and then immediately started sewing but that wasn't the case. Before I get to an actual project I thought it would be helpful to explain the basic functions of a serger. As you may already know, I received my serger as a birthday gift. My mom bought me a Singer Professional 5 that came with 6 additional presser feet. I was excited and then instantly thought, "wait, what can I do with a serger?" After a lot of reading and no sewing (yet), I think I know what my serger can do. Double Chain Stitch suitable for straight seams also used for decorative chainstitch topstitching effect Double Chain Stitch Two-thread wrapped Edge Overlock (narrow) provides an elegant fine finish to lightweight fabrics when using clear threads the fabric appears to have an invisible edge gives a couture effect and looks beautiful on finer fabrics Two-thread Wrapped Edge Overlock (narrow) Two-thread Overedge (narrow and wide) used as a lightweight seam finish or a lightweight seam less thread is used and does not imprint on the right side of fabric when pressed creates less bulky seams (ideal for sheer or lace fabrics) Two-thread Overedge (narrow and wide) Three-thread Overlock (narrow) most commonly used because of its versatility provides professional seam finish to woven fabrics beneficial in preventing loosely woven fabrics from unraveling offers unlimited decorative capabilities recommended for finishing seams but not reinforcing the seam Three-thread Overlock (narrow) Three-thread Flatlock (narrow and wide) used decoratively to achieve the look of applied trim special decorative threads are used for a textured and dramatic effect also used to serge non-bulky seams Three-thread Flatlock (narrow) Three-thread Flatlock (narrow) Three-thread Flatlock (narrow) Three-thread Ultra Stretch Mock Safety stretches with the fabric, seam will not break when fabric is stretched ideal for super-stretch knits like those used on swimwear or athletic clothing Three-thread Ultra Stretch Mock Safety Four-thread Ultra Stretch Mock Safety stronger than the Three-thread Ultra Stretch Mock Safety stitch the additional thread provided added strength to the seam (good choice for knits and wovens) works well when applying ribbing to garment (often seen on cuffs, collars, and waistbands) Four-thread Ultra Stretch Mock Safety Four-thread Safety Stitch alternative to the Five-thread Safety Stitch offers same type of Two-thread Chainstitch used when sewing a medium weight woven fabric because the stitch is less bulky Four-thread Safety Stitch Five-thread Safety Stitch (wide) combination of a Two-thread Chainstitch and Three-thread Overlock stitch Suitable for woven fabrics and provides a durable seam for heavy weight fabrics (denim) Five-thread Safety Stitch (wide) Five-thread Safety Stitch (narrow) same benefits as Five-thread Safety Stitch (wide) Five-thread Safety Stitch (narrow) Cover Stitch (narrow) often seen in ready to wear garments two needles crate parallel rows of topstitching and one looper sews an edge finish on underside Cover Stitch (narrow) Cover Stitch (wide) same benefits as Cover Stitch (narrow) Cover Stitch (wide) Triple Cover Hem professional and creative triple topstitch three needles create parallel rows of topstitching and one looper sews an edge finish on underside ideal for heavier fabrics traditionally used in home decorating adds unique accent for garment constructions Triple Cover Hem Three-thread Rolled Hem used to finish edges of scarves, ruffles, table linens, and some garments suitable for lightweight to medium weight fabrics used for pintucks Three-thread Rolled Hem My serger came with a beading foot (used for sewing on beads, sequins, pearls, and thick cord), a blind hem foot (used for hemming skirts, paints, and other sewing projects in one easy operation), a cording foot (used for sewing piping betwe3en two layers of fabric in one easy operation), an elastic foot (used for inserting elastic into a seam), a shirring foot (used for shirring and gathering), and a taping foot (used for inserting a tape into seams that will stretch easily). Now that I know just what I can do with my serger, I'm excited to start sewing! This week I'll be using my favorite Lil Blue Boo patterns to make some spring clothes for my daughter.
I've made it my goal for 2015 to blog at least once a week (on Sunday). As I've been searching for content to share on the blog, it occurred to me that I've never shared my "Watermark Tee" tutorial on my own blog. This was originally a project that I shared on the blog, UCreate. It has been, hands-down, my most popular project. I still get regular traffic from the post I shared on Kari's blog. I even won a Silhouette with this little project. For some reason, though, I've never shared it on my own blog. It seems like, 3 years later, it's about time. This really is a fun little project that is pretty easy to get supplies for. A lot of people have contacted me and let me know that it was the perfect project for their kids/grandkids or to make t-shirts for an event. It's cheap, easy, and a lot of fun. Sounds great, right?! What I love about this project is that it's completely customizable. I used favorite quotes to decorate my shirt but you could also use song lyrics, bible verses, favorite book excerpts, etc. You can also choose whatever color you like. I think it would be a very kid-friendly project as well. There are so many possibilities! Materials: Elmer's Blue Gel Glue (it must be the blue gel, white won't work) Fabric Dye (RIT is my tried and true brand) A white cotton Tee, Tank, Dress etc. Tutorial: If you're unfamiliar with Batiking, it's a method of dyeing fabric in which you create a design with a dye- resist. When you dye your garment in cold water, all will be colored except where you've placed your dye resist. In traditional batiking, you would use wax as a resist. I tried this out and found it to be messy and difficult to control. Using store bought glue is much more convenient and very easy to control. Step 1: Prepare Wet your tee with cool water and place a water resistant board between the layers of fabric. I used the lid of a bin. Step 2: Design I'm not much of an artist, so what worked best for me was writing favorite quotes right across the front of the shirt. This quote was found via Pinterest Source You could also try drawing a simple design like my very amateur sailboat: Let dry completely. This will take several hours. Step 3: Dye Your dye bath should be prepared using cool water. Experiment with different amounts of dye until you find the right concentration. Keep in mind that the color that comes out of the dye bath will be a couple of shades darker than the dry, finished garment. When you get the color you want, lay your tee flat to dry. Step 4: Wash When your tee is dry (to let the dye set) soak it in cool, soapy water for about 15 minutes. This soak washes the extra glue out. Throw it in the washer and dry as you would normally. Step 5: Wear and Enjoy! ...
By popular demand, this week's needle and thREAD post is dedicated to the "easy and neat little way to hem chiffon" I men...
The tank was forced gently placed on Maia and it fits super well. And the back's not too shabby either. Because Millie asked so nicely about the way I did the binding, here's my compendium of different methods of knit binding. And why I don't like them. Except my own way, which I love. Method One: Single fold binding Binding is folded in half: On fold, sewn to the right side of the garment: End result flipped up: NB: You can topstitch seam allowance back down to the main fabric for a nicer finish, I didn't because I'm in a ridiculous hurry. Why I don't like it: If you're binding a neckline or something super curvy you have to cut the binding much shorter and make it stretch evenly to fit. Too. Many. Pins.Method Two: Double fold binding Binding folded in half and then into quarters: Folded to hide raw edges and the bottom fold extend a little bit further down from the top fold: Binding encloses raw edge like a sandwich: Stitched close to the bottom edge (thereby catching the hidden folded edge on the inside that extends slightly further) The right side: The wrong side: Why I don't like it: You have too be oh-so-slow and careful to make sure you are catching the hidden bottom edge in a non-ugly fashionMethod Three: Enclose and trim (the Ottobre method) Binding folded up about a third of the way to give stitch guide: Placed to the right side of garment and stitched along press line: Binding pulled up and over the raw edges into the inside of the garment and pressed down: Stitched on the right side of the garment just below the bottom edge of the binding: Turned to the wrong side: The excess binding trimmed up to the stitch line: The end result: Why I don't like it: It's honestly not that bad, but I don't love the trimmed raw edge. That's the kind of thing that shops cover up with a coverstitch.Method Four: Fold and Flip (the Kitschy Coo method) As per Method One, fold binding in half but put it to the wrong side of the garment: Once stitched, flip the binding to the right side: Fold it over so that it encloses the seam allowance. Roll it a tiny bit so the edge of the binding is still visible from the wrong side (otherwise known as Don't Drag the Wrong Side of the Garment Up and Over So Everyone Can See It). You should be able to feel the seam allowance hiding inside. Stitch the binding down close to the edge from the right side: Pardon the skipped stitches, my machine was being an a**hole. The wrong side looks nice too (and see what I mean about a tiny bit of the binding still visible from the inside): A better picture of both sides when machines are being cooperative: Why this method is awesome: Good looking from both sides, and you don't need to cut the binding smaller than the neckline and stretch it to fit. Hope this helps those of you getting your summer knits out! Pin It Tweet
This sewing tutorial will show you two ways to finish bias binding ends for when you are sewing something round, like a neckline or armhole.
I discovered a neat, little trick for gathering tulle the other day. It starts with zig-zagging over dental floss. I positioned the dental floss in the loop of my narrow-hemming foot to keep it centred as I was sewing. I used a fairly wide zig-zag, so as not to get the dental floss caught. Then, because I knew I was short of dental floss, I kept the floss under tension. This had the added bonus of gathering the tulle evenly as I went, saving the tedious hand gathering step. You can see it gathering behind the foot in the photo above. Pull the floss tighter to increase the gathering. The amount of gathering can still be adjusted after you have finished, as long as you have not cut the floss off too short.
In the United States, patterns are generally not eligible for copyright protection as copyright does not apply to methods or “procedures for doing, making, or building things.” Additionally, an ite…
Get ready for a long post with LOADS of photos .... Kaffe and Brandon are in town and I was lucky enough to get into a workshop they ran today at Amitie, the happiest land of them all! This image above is of the original bordered diamonds quilt from the book Simple Shapes, Spectacular Quilts. It was our focus for the day. There were so many lovely people there today: That's me with Jenny, owner of Amitie Miriam, Me (and my chins) and Cathy Melissa, Cathy and Me Blogless Sue and Judy And so many other awesome women........ ..... who brought with them LOADS of delicious fabric: Lisa was obscenely neat and organized. We ate well: And drank well ... But mainly we worked hard!! There were design walls everywhere: Here are some of the wonderful designs that were created today: Here I am hard at work: Check out the progression of my design wall: It eventually became this: After all the designing (and eating and drinking and singing and laughing and chatting) was done, Kaffe went from design wall to design wall offering insights and lashings of praise and encouragement. Here he is critiquing my design: During the day, Kaffe was generally quiet, measured and a bit serious. The only real 'smiley' shot I got of him was standing in front of Linda's quilt ... my favourite of the day: Brandon on the other hand ... What an amazing day!! Thank you to EVERYONE who made it possible. Andi xx
I’m joining in the Vintage Pattern Pledge, for the same reason A Stitching Odyssey created the pledge – I love collecting vintage patterns, (mostly from the local op-shops here) but don…
This list of 20 handmade Christmas gifts to start sewing now is sure to give you plenty of ideas to get started on while you have plenty of time.
V neck blouses can look like a hot mess if you don't take care when sewing them. Here's my quick tips for to sew a perfect v neck every time!
