The fascinating differences between haute couture and ready-to-wear.
How to do a full bust adjustment and a small bust adjustment, from patterns with darts to princess seams to patterns with no darts, there's a method here
FREE DOWNLOAD by Linda Reynolds Learn the techniques used by the top fashion design houses for applying some of the more commonly used couture finishes in garment sewing. You'll find information and how-tos on:
Sized for men and women to 6 ft. tall. The Japanese kimono traditionally varies in a wide degree of formality. Our sewing pattern is for a yukata, or informal, unlined kimono for men and women of all sizes, and is usually made from cotton. All traditional kimono are cut and constructed in the same way, with variations in length and in the style and width of the sleeves. Front and back are cut together, with no seams at the shoulder. Narrow panels create an overlap at the front opening, and a triple folded and reinforced neckband extends below the waist. This pattern offers a choice among three sleeve styles - a casual kukata sleeve for women and more formal widths for both men and women. The timeless simplicity of this elegant garment is still enchanting. Our unlined informal kimono (yukata) can be worn in various lengths, as a dress, coat, or robe. The pattern includes instructions for shibori dyeing, sashiko embroidery, and for making an informal obi or sash. The pattern also provides extensive notes on history and fabrics, along with traditional and modern ways to wear this garment. Suggested fabrics: Light or medium-weight cotton, rayon, or silk. Yukata kimono are often blue and white, or other colorful prints. Yardage chart (.pdf) Folkwear sizing chart (.pdf) This pattern is available as a Paper pattern and PDF pattern. Choose thepattern format you want in the drop down menu. The PDF pattern has instructions and files for copy shop (36” and A0), print at home (A4 and 8.5”x11”) Correction: In some versions, the instructions for Step Four say "For Women, end stitching at large circles which marks the bottom of the underarm body opening. For Men, continue stitching to large square, taking care not to catch bottom of Sleeve." However, it should say: "For Women, end stitching at square which marks the bottom of the underarm body opening. For Men, continue stitching to large dot, taking care not to catch bottom of Sleeve
I decided I wanted needed to make myself a new denim skirt but I was a little nervous it was going to look home made. So I incorporated a couple of fancy Flat Fell Seams to help give it a professional look. Have you ever looked at the seam on your jeans and wondered, "How'd they do that? Where's the raw edge?" Well, wonder no longer. While I was working on my skirt I took a couple of photos so I could share this fun sewing technique with you. Believe it or not it's really not as hard as you might think and it gives great finished detail to almost any project. Let's get started. Like I said before a Flat Fell Seam is a great way to enclose your seam. Not only does it look sharp and professional but it gives extra strength to the seam. However, there are a couple of things you need to remember in order to get the look you are going for. If you are sewing on denim or any thick fabric a heavy duty (denim) needle is essential. Don't forget to make your stitch length longer. I sewed this seam with the stitch length at 4.2 (5 is the longest length on my machine.) Step #1 Take your two fabric pieces and pin them Wrong sides together (Right side facing out). Step #2 Increase your stitch length and sew your first seam. Your seam allowance can be anywhere between 1/2 and 5/8 of an inch but not smaller than 1/2 inch. Step #3 Press the seam allowance to one side. You can decide which way will be best for your project. If you notice on jeans the seam allowance normally is pressed to the back. The seam allowance that is facing up will remain the top of the finished seam. Step #4 With your finger open up the seam allowance and trim the bottom piece (the seam allowance in between your main fabric piece and the top seam allowance after you pressed the seam allowance to one side.) to a scant 1/4 inch. Step #5 Feel free to pin at this point. I did. Just to make sure everything stayed in place. Pinning takes some time but it IS YOUR FRIEND! Step #6 Move your needle position to the far right, make sure your stitch length is the same as when you sewed your first seam. Sew close to the folded edge of your seam. Take your time as you sew so your stitching is nice and even. That's it! Not too bad is it! Take a look at what your seam should look like on the inside and on the outside. Nice and finished and no raw edges anywhere to be seen! Check out my finished skirt! I wish I was confident enough in my body image to show you how I look in the skirt......but I'm not, so you get the skirt on a plastic hanger. (Note to self: purchase some presentable skirt hangers so I don't have to take pictures of my skirts on the free plastic hangers from Khol's anymore.) BTW I realize I should have pressed the skirt before I took a picture for the whole world to see but I didn't so what can I say? You get my skirt wrinkles, plastic hanger and all. Just keepin' it real! ☺ Good luck! I'd love to hear from you if you decide to try this out!
All Patterns Are Brand New From The Designer or Manufacturer! Piedmont Quilt Quilting Pattern, From Love Sew Modern BRAND NEW, Please See Description and Pictures For More Information! The Piedmont Quilt pattern is a modern design inspired by the rolling hills and mountains of the Shenandoah Mountains. It comes in 2 sizes, Banner (16” inch X20” inch) and Throw (62” inch X77 1/2” inch). The Piedmont Quilt pattern is considered a confident beginner pattern using skills such as snowballing corners and half square triangles. Included with the pattern is a coloring page and detailed visuals to clearly illustrate the quilt construction and skills. Printed Paper Pattern Final Product: Quilt Technique Used: Standard Machine Sewing Skill Level: Intermediate See Pictures For More Information!!!
My chosen discipline based technique is tailoring to develop practice of this I chose to look at the great gatsby. I started my research by looking at tailoring in general, techniques and technical…
SIZE
Size Guide Use body measurements not your 'ready to wear size' Measurements given below are in inches Sizes 6 8 10 12 14 Bust 30.5 31.5 32.5 34 36 Waist 23 24 25 26.5 28 Hip 32.5 334.5 34.5 36 38 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Sizes 14 16 18 20 22 Bust 36 38 40 42 44 Waist 28 30 32 34 37 Hip 38 40 42 44 46 For more information and details on sizing >Click Here
How to Make a Bodice Pattern - Draft a sloper pattern based on your own measurements to help you fit patterns to yourself.
Download this Premium Vector about Variation of sewing machine stitches with titles, vertical illustration, and discover more than 15 Million Professional Graphic Resources on Freepik
This tutorial is long due, I took most of the pictures two years ago so when I decided to redo the skirt on my 16th century German dress a couple of weeks ago I took the last pictures for the tutor…
Hello my lovelies and thank you for visiting with me today on this beautiful Monday here in Australia. I hope that you have all loved seeing the tester pics of the new Harper Pants over at the shop and I am sure you will agree with me that each and every tester looks sensational wearing [...]
Original vintage design 1933 Lapped Blouse with Silk Lapel. This structured blouse features a slotted faced lapel that can be worn buttoned up or open. Bust 36" I am fortunate enough to have a collection of old pattern magazines from the 1920s and 30s and I am in the process of reproducing the gorgeous designs off the pattern sheets included with these magazines. The patterns have been traced from these sheets then drawn up digitally. My patterns are faithful line on line reproductions and come with the original, if somewhat very basic, construction instructions. To help you make your garment, every pattern comes with a free copy of an original 47 page 1930's Singer sewing techniques book, which has in depth explanations for the techniques you will need. I also provide all my patterns as full size sheets and on A4 tiles, both of these formats are provided so you can choose the printing option that suits you. The pattern pieces on the full size file fit on two A0 sheets. The A4 file has 30 pages that tile together, you just print and cut them out and tape them together (tiles are sized for A4 and US paper sizes). You will receive the following in your pdf files: - 40 page A4 tiled full sized pattern with cover sheet, printing instructions, basic general instructions, material and pattern piece information; - Full size two sheet file; - 1930s Singer sewing techniques book with construction and finishing techniques You will need Adobe Reader to be able to open and print this pattern, you can download this for free from here: http://get.adobe.com/reader/ This digital pattern has been created using the original source material and is my work and not available for publication anywhere else. Not for resale or copying. I can also provide this as a full size paper pattern for $22 USD plus postage. Message me if you're interested...
If you're familiar with the garment industry, pattern cards or cutter's musts often accompany a pattern around the sewing facility giving the people working with it the information they need to correctly cut and sew that garment. We love the idea of these but we've found that the way they're formatted isn't really ideal for home sewing. With that in mind we designed our own dream pattern cards! They have all the information you need when working with a home sewing pattern, including: Basic details like pattern name, view you're making, and the date. Space for a sketch and fabric swatches which is especially great if you've made style changes to the original pattern. Keep yardage and notion information handy A sizing section so you know your measurements when you cut out this pattern, as well as a space for any other pattern alterations you may have made The cut list lets you keep track of everything you need to cut so you don't forget anything! If you don't need the cut list, download the card with sewing notes. Keep track of changes you make to the sewing process easily here. We hang our pattern cards with our patterns to keep everything organized and neat, and we never have to wonder if we're missing a piece, if this pattern will still fit, or what we need to make it! This download is available for free to our newsletter subscribers. If you are a subscriber, check the bottom of your latest email for the code to get this pattern for free. If you'd like to sign up to receive our newsletter, enter your email in the footer of this page below. Once you confirm your email you'll receive the code to download our free patterns!
A quick tour on different dart manipulation techniques with examples of each. How to move the darts around and how to turn them into something else.
If you have ever gone shopping for interfacing or stabilizer, you know that there are a whirlwind of options! It can be daunting to know which one(s) you need to buy if you don't know exactly what you're looking for! But shopping for these products is not quite as complex as it seems and with a little info today I'm sure we can make your experience a lot better! I actually enjoy shopping for it now that I know what I'm looking for. Image Source First let's talk about the difference between interfacing and stabilizer. For the most part, interfacing is ironed and/or sewn into the garment permanently to give it stability and structure (such as around buttonholes and collars). Stabilizers, on the other hand, are usually used temporarily to give structure underneath (such as with embroidering designs) and then after sewing they are torn out or removed by washing. There are some exceptions but that is generally the case. The best way to know whether you want interfacing or stabilizer is to buy what the pattern calls for! If it tells you to buy interfacing, then you should buy interfacing. If it tells you to buy stabilizer then you should buy stabilizer. You *can* substitute them for each other but you won't get the same results. Many of our CKC patterns call for "interfacing" without specifying which type. That is because it is often up to you! If your child likes a stiffer collar, you can use a heavier interfacing. If they like a softer collar, you can use a lighter interfacing. For me, it just depends on how much structure I want the interfacing to add. I like to stock up on the packages above because they are easy to find (Walmart, etc.) and the packages are clearly marked with their type, weight, and best uses. This brand suggests the following: Light: For Dresses and Blouses Medium: For shirts, collars, and button holes Heavy: For Jackets & Waistbands That's pretty straight-forward info! If you want to buy larger sheets though, you can by interfacing and stabilizer by-the-yard at most fabric stores. It generally costs less that way too. I do strongly recommend that you know what you're looking for before you get to the store! See if the pattern specifies exactly what you need and if it doesn't, have an idea of what you want before you go. Ask yourself these questions: Does it need to be fusible on one side, both sides, or neither? Do I want it to be light, medium, or heavy? Does it need to be white or black? Are there any other special features it needs to have? You want to at least jot down the answers for when you get to the store, but I also like to use them to look up the exact number online before I go! Here are some of the kinds I use most often, straight from Pellon's website: 72F Peltex Two-Sided Fusible Extra Firm Stabilizer: I use this for a lot of craft projects such as our free Reversible Fabric Crown, free Tablet Cover, and the brim on Christopher's Newsboy Cap. (They all say it right in the pattern.) Available for purchase here. 987F Fusible Fleece: This is fusible on one side (not both) and adds softness and a little bulk and stability to many of our free patterns on the blog, such as the Reversible Easter Basket. It can come in higher lofts too so don't be afraid to browse the website (or the store) for the thickness you want. Available for purchase here. 931TD Fusible Midweight: This is just a standard fusible medium-weight interfacing for collars etc, such as the one that I mentioned farther up that I buy in the small packages. Available for purchase here. 360 E-Z Stitch Stabilizer: I use tear-away stabilizer when adding decorative stitching or applique to knit fabrics such as the stripe on Michael's muscle tee. It helps get the stitching on nicely without puckers and then it tears right off like magic. Available for purchase here. Those are just a few options, but they are the ones I use most often. Don't be afraid to use the search box on Pellon's website -- that's what I do! (If you don't want to look it up and you're feeling adventurous you can ask for help in-store or browse the tags once you get there, but you could be there for awhile.) One last thing! The very first time I went to buy interfacing by-the-yard I was afraid that I wouldn't remember what kind I bought or how to use it. But if you look at the photo above, there is a label just like it which is folded up in the full length of the bolt, so every cut you get will provide you with a label to store with your interfacing. I like to pin my label on before rolling up so I don't take the chance of getting them mixed up! So there you go! That is really all you need to know about buying interfacing and stabilizer! Now that you're a little more familiar with the types, you can be excited (not scared) to go shopping for it and try out all kinds of new projects! Let's Create! ~ Kristen
This sewing tutorial is focusing on sewing thread sizes and how to choose a correct thread size for a sewing project if you want to learn how to sew.
All Patterns Are Brand New From The Designer or Manufacturer! Circuit Quilt Quilting Pattern, From Love Sew Modern BRAND NEW, Please See Description and Pictures For More Information! The Circuit quilt pattern comes in 4 sizes, Baby (42” inch X42” inch), Small Throw (61” inch X61” inch), Medium Throw (61” inch X80" inch) and Large Throw (80” inch X80” inch). The Circuit quilt is considered a confident beginner pattern using skills such as strip piecing and snowballing corners. Included with the pattern is a coloring page and detailed visuals to clearly illustrate the quilt construction and skills. Printed Paper Pattern Final Product: Quilt Technique Used: Standard Machine Sewing Skill Level: Confident Beginner See Pictures For More Information!!!
I am really truly excited that so many of you are commenting to say that the KNITerviews have inspired you to get over yourself and try sewing with knits! I...
When you’re working with lightweight fabrics, a French seam is often the finish of choice. But if there’s a side-seam vent, you need a way to neatly end the seam…
James is a classic fisherman’s smock revisited by Ready to sew! The fisherman’s smock is a hardwearing sailcloth smock once worn as an outer garment by fishermen. It is called «vareuse» in french. You will love the neat and strong construction of this garment and its discrete charm. Front opening fastened with 1 button Inside chest pocket dolman sleeves Decorative and functional topstitching Big kangaroo pocket or side pocket Side slits curved hem Size: 32 to 46 Seam allowances included For more informations and photos visit us at www.readytosew.fr and check #jamesreadytosew on instagram
NOTE: This is a PDF Sewing Pattern and NOT a physical product. After purchase, you will receive links via email to a digital instruction booklet and pattern files that you can download and print at home. A copyshop file is also included with your purchase. See the FAQs for more information on file delivery, pattern printing, and more. The orange floral silk blouse was sewn without the sleeve cuffs and sleeves were trimmed for a straight sleeve hem. The green dress is made with sandwashed viscose. The white blouse is made with linen. SIZES: US sizes 0-30 with option for B, C, or D Cup bust sizes. (Click here for sizing and yardage requirements.) DESCRIPTION: Romy is a blousey wrap top with romantic pleat details, three-quarter sleeves, elegant button closures, and can be sewn as a peplum top or knee length dress. VERSION A is a peplum-style wrap blouse.VERSION B is a knee-length wrap dress with a curved high-low hem line. TECHNIQUES COVERED IN THIS PATTERN: Gathering Sewing Pleats Installing a bodice facing Installing sleeve plackets (continuous lapped placket) + cuffs Constructing a wrap-around bodice yoke Installing Buttons/buttonholes Sewing narrow hems SKILL LEVEL: Intermediate to Advanced RECOMMENDED FABRICS: Light weight woven fabrics. For a more fluid drape and flowing fit, use fabrics such as tencel, lyocell, rayon, and crepe de chine. For a more structured, boxy fit, use shirting fabrics such as linen, chambray, poplin, and voile. BUTTONS + CLOSURES: 4 buttons (1/2" diameter recommended) 1 Sew-on snap closure set (size 1/0) FINISHED MEASUREMENTS: Click here to see Finished Garment Measurements INSTRUCTIONS: English with metric and imperial measurements provided. PDF FILES INCLUDED IN DOWNLOAD: Instruction Booklet (22 pages) Print-at-home pattern (US Letter and A4) (72 pages with print guide and size layers so you only have to print what you need. Includes all bust sizes) Copyshop B, C, and D Cup pattern files - A0 Size, 3 sheets per cup size (33.1” x 46.8” each)(with size layers so you only have to print what you need) ADDITIONAL RESOURCES: Romy Wrap Top + Dress Sewalong Romy Wrap tutorials and pattern hacks Romy Wrap Tutorial on the Pattern Scout YouTube channel:
This pattern is an easy sew with fun raw detailing in the construction (if you prefer a more finished look you have that option in the instructions too!). The shirt fits oversized and boxy, so the sizing is very forgiving. Size down for a more fitted look. The hem line hits just below the hip and it's perfect to tuck in or style with a knot.This pattern is drafted for drapey knits with at least 50% stretch. If choosing to finish with raw hems, consider how the edge of the fabric rolls. Pattern Type:PDF - Letter (A4), A0, Projector Skill Level:Beginner Fabric Quantity:XXS - L: 1.5yds (1.4m)XL - 5X: 2yds (1.8m) Materials:* Lightweight jersey works best. Also can use bamboo lycra, Supima Cotton, Micromodal Lycra, Modal, Cotton Modal, Slub, and French Terry* Optional: Fusible interfacing for pocket Machines:* Sewing Machine* Serger (small zig zag in place of serged seams if you don't have one)* Coverstitch Machine (optional) Additional Sizes Examples and Pictures:Click HERE Additional Details:Please read through the instruction before getting started on your project as it contains a lot of helpful information in achieving the right fit! Once payment has gone through you will be able to download your files immediately! You will also receive both a confirmation email and an email with a link to download your files. The confirmation email will give you the option to view your order where you can download your files. Lots of options! Be sure to check your promotions/spam/junk folders if the email with the file links doesn't come to your inbox. Please don't share the file with anyone. If you have any issues feel free to email [email protected]
All Patterns Are Brand New From The Designer or Manufacturer! Maven Quilt Quilting Pattern, From Love Sew Modern BRAND NEW, Please See Description and Pictures For More Information! The Maven quilt pattern is a modern star design. It comes in 3 sizes, Baby (48” inch X48” inch), Throw (72” inch X 72” inch) and Bed (96” inch X96” inch). The Circuit quilt is considered a confident beginner pattern using skills such as strip piecing, half square triangles, and snowballing corners. Included with the pattern is a coloring page and detailed visuals to clearly illustrate the quilt construction and skills. Printed Paper Pattern Final Product: Quilt Technique Used: Standard Machine Sewing Skill Level: Confident Beginner See Pictures For More Information!!!
Hello my lovelies and thank you for visiting with me today on this beautiful Monday here in Australia. I hope that you have all loved seeing the tester pics of the new Harper Pants over at the shop and I am sure you will agree with me that each and every tester looks sensational wearing [...]
Corset making is HARD - isn't it? Actually, it isn't as hard as it seems. There's basic information online about how to make a corset, but there's a sorry lack of information on how to do it WELL. So if you're serious about ending the frustration and making a corset that you can wear with pride, here are a few tips from a pro.
Hey guys!As promised, here's the little tutorial to show you how I finish the inside of dresses with a bulky waist seam. It will reduce some unwanted bulk and give you a clean, beautiful finish, all i
Tulle is a thin, sheer fabric that can be used to add volume and soft details to clothing. Learn how to sew tulle in this post.
På begäran finns detta inlägget även på svenska. Det hittar du här. Why and when you need to make an FBA Most patterns are constructed with a cup size B in mind (sometimes a C). A cup size is a relative measure and not a fixed volume. That means that you can be a B-cup and still span across sizes 0-18 (or whatever) - the volume of a B cup size 18 is a lot bigger than a B cup size 0 . If the pattern maker should cater for all cup sizes they would need to make one pattern for every cup size AND every size!! Imagine that pattern sheet!!! Gee, that would be crazy, which is why they stick with only one cup for all sizes and let us do the adjustments at home. It was so much simpler when women were all Barbies. ;-) See that should probably answer your question on WHY ON EARTH clothes in the store never ever fit you right. Same reason. All made for the same one cup size... Now. For those of you who are a little intimidated by this, or that may be afraid that you are changing the design of the garment. Chill out. It is really quite simple and this is done to KEEP the design and not to distort it. I will be showing FBA on the Alma Blouse from Sewaholic Patterns. Signs that you need an FBA Fashion photo borrowed from Ottobre 5/2011, sewing pattern magazine. If you would solve the above problems by just wearing a larger size, then the fit around your waist and shoulders will not be great. Just because the boobs are big, you haven't changed your frame, right? In this picture I am wearing my first Alma. I did just that, i.e. no FBA and went with a larger size. No complete disaster but there is definitely a lot to ask if you're picky, like me. No FBA, larger size to fit the bust. Another 'classic' we are all much too aware of, is the buttoned shirt where you are afraid to move your arms in case the buttons will pop off (have you ever taped, sewn, safety-pinned or glued the fabric in place between the boobs to feel secure?). I was just done wearing shirts altogether until I learned about FBA. Another graphic to illustrate this (I am such an artist!): You see that the green "fabric" needs to be way longer than the red "fabric", even though the neck and the waist are in the same places. This drawing is necessary to calm those of you who fear your garment will be bigger and tent-like after a FBA is done. It won't be, but your boobs will fit. The FBA process Now there are certain steps to take in order to succeed with the pattern alteration. I am sure there are many different ways to do this, but this is how I do it. If you have a better way, do tell! I am eager to learn! #1 Find your size and trace your pattern!! Really goes without saying, but you will be doing some cutting so don't spoil the original sheets. What size to cut? It is not always a clear answer to that, since we are all different. Some women have broad shoulders and should select a size that accommodates them, while others have a tummy to include in the game. If you have sewn some in the past you may have an idea on how the rest of your frame fits into patterns? If not. Do measure your "high bust" measurement instead. That is putting a tape measure under your armpits, around your back and OVER your bust (as opposed to across your widest part). Then measure your waist, hips etc and select the size that is closest to fit. For myself I've learned that my shoulders are pretty average and usually fit into patterns without alteration so I just go by the waist measure and that's my size. The boobs will be taken care of soon. My measures: High bust (as described above): 36 inches Waist (my skinniest part of the torso): 30 inches According to the pattern back table those measures are exactly a size 10. Meaning that if I had a B-cup, a size 10 would fit me like a glove. For reference my real bust measurement is 39 inches = 3 inches larger than the size 10 of the table. So, I will now trace a size 10 exactly as is and cut it out. Size 10 straight from the pattern. Darts in yellow. #2 Find your apex and make sure the darts point to it. This step is more important than you might think, you'll see why in a minute, so don't give this a miss. If you look at the pattern, all darts usually point towards the same point - the apex. Apex being the highest point of your chest (for most people, the nipple). If you run right into a wall, your apex is the point that hits the wall first, unless your nose beats you to it ;-) Mark your apex on the pattern. Is it in the same place as pattern wants it to be? Congratulations, move on to #3. If not, go to a plastic surgeon and have your nipples moved into the correct location. OR, you can alter the pattern, which is what I prefer. It is cheaper too. Original apex marked yellow. My apex marked blue. As you can see in the picture my apex is quite far off the original location. Now I need to make sure the darts point towards the blue X instead of the yellow. The easiest thing is to move the waist dart. Just put a piece of paper over the yellow one and copy it. Then put the copy in the position you want UNDER the pattern sheet and then just trace a new one. My pattern now looks like this: Blue is my new waist dart. Now there are two ways of changing the bust dart so that it points towards YOUR apex. You either just start at the side markings of the dart and adjust the angle of the point, then true up the dart legs. The reason I don't prefer to do it this way is because you then change the design of the garment (if you're picky). The bust dart will then, in my case, be tilted slightly downwards instead of more upwards. The other way to do it is to lower the entire dart the same amount as your apex is lowered, in my case 3 cm. Before you do that it is wise to fold up the current dart and mark the sideline of the "sewn" garment so that you know what it should look like after you have moved the dart. Blue is new bust dart, 3 cm lower than the yellow. Cut off the paper between the yellow dart legs (marked blue line) and fold up your new dart to verify the shape of the side seam. Okay, so why was all this hassle important again? Well, now that everything points towards apex you can go crazy in the next step and still be sure that you add fabric only in the right places - without adding to your waistline, armpits or other places!!! And it kind of looks shitty when a dart points in the wrong direction too. And this goes for other types of FBAs too! As long as you keep your FBA in the middle of dart and/or tuck markings you are not distorting the design - it doesn't matter from what place or angle the dart/tuck originates!! Beautiful! So, NOW we can actually start doing the FBA! #3 - the actual FBA!!! If you remember from #1 above, I needed to adjust the front piece by 3 inches = 1,5 inch (4cm) on one pattern half. A rule of thumb in adjustment is 1 cm per cup size (counting from B), which would in that case suggest that I wear a size F, which I do :-) But - another aspect to take into account is the "finished measurements" of the garment. For my bust, being 39'', the ready measures for the garment around the bust is 43'' which is more ease than I like, even for a loose fitting blouse. Therefore I'll do an FBA of 2cm on a half front, instead of 4cm. Time to cut up the pattern! For this step I strongly advise working over a grid since it makes life so much easier. Remember I said we want to cut within of our darts to not distort the design. The first cut is vertical from the bottom, through the waist dart, to the apex The next cut is from the apex to the armpit. Aim for anywhere on the lower 3rd of the curve - but DO NOT cut all the way through!! Leave just a tiny piece of the paper. The next cut is from the side through the bust dart up to the apex - but NOT all the way, leave a little just before reaching apex. The last cut is a horizontal cut from the waist dart to the centre fold side. Cut all the way through. All the cuts are marked in red on my pattern: Now remember for my FBA I wanted 2cm on the half front. When I cut and spread I want 2cm space in every direction: Shove a new piece of tracing paper underneath and draw the darts again and true up the legs: Note! Your new darts will be way bigger than the old ones (compare the blue bust dart with the old yellow one). This makes total sense - try fold a paper into a cone. I tall cone means longer dart than a short cone, right?! The waist dart now is extended all the way down, because I don't want to add width to the waist, but you can shape it differently if you like. And if you wanna be fancy then trace the whole thing on new paper and there you go!! The finished piece!! No go sew! The result will look something like this (the blouse has been worn for a couple of hours in the picture if you wonder why I haven't ironed it properly). Still quite roomy and comfy but skims off the body nicely. Compare with the non FBA'd pic from the top... I rest my case. /Alexandra
These pages are from an undated Laura Wheeler catalog. Judging by the hair and clothing styles, it is from the 1940s. Laura Wheeler was one of the names used by Reader Mail, Inc., which advertised patterns in newspapers throughout the U.S. The patterns are priced at 15 cents each. The cloth dolls are all baseball head style.
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The Rowan Tee is my go-to pattern whenever I need to whip up something fast for my kids - the pattern only really needs a fun print and you're good to go! But when I'm in the mood for some pattern hacking, the Rowan also provides the perfect canvas to create fun colorblocks, sweaters and dresses! When I found myself b
NOTE: This is a PDF Sewing Pattern and NOT a physical product. After purchase, you will receive links via email to a digital instruction booklet and pattern files that you can download and print at home. A copyshop file is also included with your purchase. See the FAQs for more information on file delivery, pattern printing, and more. The orange floral silk blouse was sewn without the sleeve cuffs and sleeves were trimmed for a straight sleeve hem. The green dress is made with sandwashed viscose. The white blouse is made with linen. SIZES: US sizes 0-30 with option for B, C, or D Cup bust sizes. (Click here for sizing and yardage requirements.) DESCRIPTION: Romy is a blousey wrap top with romantic pleat details, three-quarter sleeves, elegant button closures, and can be sewn as a peplum top or knee length dress. VERSION A is a peplum-style wrap blouse.VERSION B is a knee-length wrap dress with a curved high-low hem line. TECHNIQUES COVERED IN THIS PATTERN: Gathering Sewing Pleats Installing a bodice facing Installing sleeve plackets (continuous lapped placket) + cuffs Constructing a wrap-around bodice yoke Installing Buttons/buttonholes Sewing narrow hems SKILL LEVEL: Intermediate to Advanced RECOMMENDED FABRICS: Light weight woven fabrics. For a more fluid drape and flowing fit, use fabrics such as tencel, lyocell, rayon, and crepe de chine. For a more structured, boxy fit, use shirting fabrics such as linen, chambray, poplin, and voile. BUTTONS + CLOSURES: 4 buttons (1/2" diameter recommended) 1 Sew-on snap closure set (size 1/0) FINISHED MEASUREMENTS: Click here to see Finished Garment Measurements INSTRUCTIONS: English with metric and imperial measurements provided. PDF FILES INCLUDED IN DOWNLOAD: Instruction Booklet (22 pages) Print-at-home pattern (US Letter and A4) (72 pages with print guide and size layers so you only have to print what you need. Includes all bust sizes) Copyshop B, C, and D Cup pattern files - A0 Size, 3 sheets per cup size (33.1” x 46.8” each)(with size layers so you only have to print what you need) ADDITIONAL RESOURCES: Romy Wrap Top + Dress Sewalong Romy Wrap tutorials and pattern hacks Romy Wrap Tutorial on the Pattern Scout YouTube channel:
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