I’m always looking for new and inspirational projects. And when I’m not doing that I am likely looking for new and lovely fabrics. Thank goodness my obsessions coincide!! A while back, …

Superior Top grain Goat leather ,masterfully sewed with durable waxed Thread to ensure long lasting Duffel bag. The inner lining of the bag is sturdy canvas . Has high quality Brass finished buckles. Makes you bag looks very expensive. Solid hardware and construction. This is very a small duffel bag, yet The main compartment can accommodate water bottle, small size shoes, tote you car misc. items etc. . The two smaller side pockets can be used for smaller things like charger, mouse, power bank Etc. . The bag has a front pocket for quick access to small items like keys, spare batteries etc. This beautifully crafted , made of genuine goat hide , duffel bag has the following features: This duffel bag Qualifies most airline's carry-on criteria. Fits on the over head bin . Works great as a Gym Bag, Weekender Bag, Hold all Bag, Travel bag, Overnight bag etc. Material: Goat Leather Inner lining : Canvas Dimensions : 12 X 8 X 7 inches Zipper : High Quality Metal Hardware : Brass polish metal Carry Strap : Hand carry , Adjustable & detachable shoulder strap Airlines carry-on compliant : Yes Duffel bag for men , duffle , groomsmen gift , gym Bag , handcraft travel leather luggage , personalized weekend weekender .We can engrave Initials or Logo on your item and make it a great Graduation gift, Anniversary Gift, Travel Gift, Gift for boyfriend, gift for father , gift for men and make it a unique gift Idea. Get the weekender bag personalized . I will Laser emboss Initials and logos to make the unique gift this carry-on is , more personalized. Kindly note : Leather is a natural product and hence slight deviation in color and texture will not be considered as a defect. For personalization , if you want specific font or size , please inform me . If there are no instructions I shall use appropriate size and font as per the size of the bag.

Learn how to make a simple bag with this simple tote bag tutorial. A great beginner sewing project.

Here's a great bag pattern that would be perfect for summers. (AD) Get it here.

Flexible Foam Interfacing is perfect for sewing bags and totes. It makes your handmade bags hold their shape. Learn all about flexible foam interfacing.

Copy Right Anne Ibach 2021 (I’m really happy that a lot of people are making this bag! Since it’s free, when you post a photo of your bag on social media, please credit me, use the hash…

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Trendy Car Trash Bag 64% off for 2 days only. Priced at only $6.99 (was $18.99). You are going to love this trendy Trash Bag/Bin/Toys Totes. They are made of the same high end material as our beach bags, backpacks, lunch totes….they a completely washable and won’t loose it’s colorful luster. They are lined, wipe-able reusable trash […]

Welcome back to Top Ten Tuesday! Did you grow up with a mother, grandmother, dad, grandfather or other person in your life that were quilters or seamstresses or tailors? If so, you may have been h…

Bringing you guys a super quick and super useful tutorial today. Made from the dreamy new collection by Teagan White, Fort Firefly, these nesting bins are equally cute & functional! I don’t know about y’all, but I’m always on the lookout for a cute way to bring a little more organization to my crafty chaos. These would also make an adorable baby shower gift - I can just see them filled with tiny baby socks or as a diaper caddy on a changing table. So many uses!! I was able to make this 3 bin set in just a little over an hour. This is a great project for beginners - If you can sew a straight line, you can make these!! Notes before you get started: There are two ways to make this bin, both are equally simple! I will lay out both options and you can decide which works best for you. Pay attention to direction when you make your template and cut your fabric. The small portion of the template is the bin bottom, so orient your fabric accordingly. Use 1/2in seams unless otherwise stated. Outer, lining, and Pellon® pieces are cut & sewn the same way. Whichever version you choose, cut your Pellon® to match your lining piece(s). I found it really fast to cut & sew all bins at the same time, assembly line style. I chose to make mine with the “non continuous” method because the fabric I’m using has a distinct direction. Finished Dimensions: Small: 5x6in base Medium: 6x7in base Large: 7x8in base All bins measure 8in tall before folding down. Supplies: 3 outer fabrics, 1/2 yd of each (You may need more, if your fabric is directional) 3 lining fabrics, 1/2 yd of each (You may need more, if your fabric is directional) 1 1/2 yrds fusible Pellon®, I used Décor Bond 809 for this. (You may need more if you’re using a type that is not 45 wide) Templates I used Fort Firefly Fabric for all three bins. Check your local web or brick and mortar retailer to find the line. (Coming soon to stores) First things first - you’ll need to make yourself a quick template for your 3 bins. Using the measurements provided, choose your method & sketch out your pattern pieces. (I used poster board to make mine!) The two methods explained: It is possible to cut this on the fold as one continuous piece. If your fabric has a non directional print, I recommend using this method. You will use the measurements given for “continuous” to create your template. When cutting, place your template on the fold & cut one. For directional fabric, use the measurements given for “non continuous” to make your template. You will need to pay close attention to template placement on the fabric to make sure that half your bin is not upside down. For this, you are NOT cutting on the fold, you are cutting two separate pieces. Assembly: Cut all pieces according to your chosen method. You may notice I cut my lining upside down - I decided to do this so that when I flipped the edge over in the final step, the fabric would be right side up. (Read that a couple times, it makes sense I promise!) Start by ironing your Pellon® to the wrong side of your LINING pieces. Quick note here - I know that typically you’d attach the Pellon® lining to the outer piece. However, I found that by attaching it to the inner pieces, you create a very stable inside that holds the outer piece tight as well. (If you cut a continuous piece, skip the next two steps) With right sides together, sew across the bottom, joining your two pieces. (The short side) Press this seam open. (This is where you pick up with the continuous method.) With right sides together, sew up each side. Press your side seams open. You will now sew up the corners, forming your bin bottom. With the piece still inside out, you will press the two corners together and match up the bottom and side seam. Stitch along this edge.(If you are working with a continuous piece, you will match up the bottom center with the side seam.) Repeat with the remaining side. Repeat this process with your lining fabric. To join your outer and lining, turn your assembled lining right side out & your outer piece inside out. You will slip the outer piece over the lining, matching up your two side seams. They should now be right sides together. Leaving yourself a 3 inch gap for turning, stitch around the top. Make sure to secure your start & stop stitches so they don’t pull out when you turn everything right side out. Once stitched, pull everything right side out through your opening. Your liner should fit snugly down inside the outer piece. Make sure to push all corners out and match them up between the layers. At this point, I like to press the top seam. Make sure to fold under the fabric at your turning gap. Pin your opening closed & stitch around the top edge of the bin, 1/4in from the edge. Optional - Turn down the top edge 1-2 inches for a cute finish. I pressed this seam to give it a crisp edge. Thanks for following along - Now go organize something!! Fort Firefly Is Shipping to A Shop Near You Soon!

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These fabulous fabric bins are an easy sewing project by Christina McKinney. If you can do straight sewing, you can make these fabric storage bins. I really like the square bottom construction to maximize space. The fabric featured in the photograph is called Fort Firefly and is by Teagan White for Birch Fabrics. This fabric is a lovely 100% certified organic premium quilting weight cotton. This is a relatively easy sewing project that beginner sewers would have success with!

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Thank you for your support! Words to live by when you're deciding how best to interface a project. Interfacing is one of those behind-the-scenes sewing materials that gives your projects a professional finish. You've probably heard of it, but maybe you don't know exactly what it is, what it does, or how best to choose the correct type for the job. This category is so large and varied, it's impractical to tackle everything at once, which is why we're focusing this article on the most common choices for bags and totes. You'll like the handy, printable chart we developed. Print out one copy to post in your sewing room and another to use when you shop. If you like the information here, leave us a comment below and let us know which additional interfacing categories you'd like us to review. Simply put, interfacing is a textile that goes behind your fabric (or between the fabric layers) to give it the support it needs to look good and hold up well. Can we cue up Wind Beneath My Wings? Interfacing comes in a huge variety of options: woven or non-woven, thick or sheer, fusible or sew-in, packaged or on a bolt. And that's even before you look at the specialty options within each of those categories. As we mentioned above, there are so many kinds, we're focusing this article on the varieties you'd most likely use when constructing bag and totes. A brief backstory on interfacing For most of early history, people wore garments that draped over the body. In other words, they weren't tailored to fit the human form. Think ancient togas and medieval robes. But around the time of the Renaissance, the nobility began to wear more fitted garments. By the time of Queen Elizabeth, both men's and women's fashion included features like tailored bodices and elaborate sleeves and collars – things that required tailors to add material under the fabric so it would hold its shape. Okay... exactly how would one walk in the vintage garment shown below?! In the 1700s, starched linen was the most popular interfacing, giving our Founding Fathers their nice, stiff coattails. In the 1930s, Dr. Carl Nottebohm, a German researcher, developed a way to create textiles by directly laying down the fibers rather than spinning them into thread and weaving them. These new non-woven fabrics became widely used as backing material and make up the bulk of interfacing today. The difference between interfacings and stabilizers If you've done machine embroidery or appliqué you've (hopefully) used a stabilizer. Like interfacing, stabilizers also come as sheets of thin, non-woven material. They can even feel similar to the touch. But interfacing and stabilizers are different in what they're designed to do and how they're manufactured. A stabilizer is a temporary backing designed to hold your fabric as still as possible while it's being stitched on. With your sewing machine's needle going in and out as fast as six times per second, the fabric wants to move up and down with it. But even a slight movement can produce uneven stitch quality. Stabilizer gives your fabric extra rigidity during the embroidery, appliqué or decorative stitching process. Once the stitching is done, the fabric no longer needs the support, so the stabilizer will often be cut, torn or rinsed away. On the other hand, interfacing stays put. Whether it's sewn in or ironed on, interfacing offers support for the fabric throughout the entire life of the item. If it's a garment, it may give collars and lapels rigidity, or help a light fabric drape properly. In the case of bags, it allows them to hold their shape. Without some type of interfacing, a sewn bag would simply collapse into a little pile of fabric. Another difference between stabilizers and interfacing is how they're manufactured. Even though they both might be non-woven, they have different characteristics. A stabilizer is manufactured to be rigid in all directions, while interfacing may give support in one direction while easily flexing in another. Even with this wonderfully researched distinction, there are exceptions. Some manufacturers use the two terms more interchangeably than others when naming their products. And, sometimes a "stabilizer" can be a good choice as your "interfacing." In fact, you'll see in our chart below that we list "stabilizers" as our favorite choices in two sew-in categories. As with most things in the world of sewing, testing is always important and your personal choice wins the day every time. Printable reference table: Our Favorite Interfacing Options For Bags and Totes We've created many bag projects here on Sew4Home, and in the process, we've made lots of trips to stores and visits online to find the best interfacing options. For your reference, we've created a handy chart you can download and print, featuring the kinds of interfacing we recommend for bags and totes. Along with our favorite in each of five general categories, we've included an alternate, which would also work well. We've divided the choices into five main categories: Foam Style Interfacing, Fleece Interfacing, Lightweight Interfacing, Mid-weight Interfacing, and Firm Interfacing. There are no definitive rules of when to use which, because there are many variables that come into play in terms of fabric (from cotton to canvas), usage (everyday versus special occasion), and the desired look (structured or slouchy). These are all completely personal choices. Think of this information as a guideline to the most common practices. If you're a regular Sew4Home visitor, you'll recognize many of our favorite choices, and we've linked to several project examples to illustrate our suggestions. Foam Style Interfacing This is a good solution to provide a soft yet defined shape. Keep in mind that foam has a some memory to it; you can bend it easily, but it will pop right back into its original shape. If you want a bag with a slouch or soft gather, foam is not the best choice. We used foam on our Stylish Drawcord Backpack (the body but not the flap) and our Vintage Satchel. Fleece Similar in softness to foam, fleece better follows the drape of the fabric to which it is being layered. Living up to its name, fleece provides a density like a blanket, and it's a good choice for totes that feature quilting. Fleece also adds thickness to your layers without adding a lot of weight, which is generally beneficial in the body of a bag. We used it on our Gathered Bucket Bag and Lightweight Day Pack (again for the body, but not the flap; a mid-weight was used on the flap). Lightweight Interfacing When you need a little help to keep things crisp, a lightweight is a good choice. It keeps a lining pocket stable, gives the proper sharpness to a small flap, and is helpful when a project has multiple layers in a small size. In addition, if your fabric already has weight, you may not want to add much more. Hardly noticeable, lightweight interfacing smooths and sharpens. We used it on our Gathered Gift Bags and Double Zipper Device Sleeve Mid-weight Interfacing We draw from this category more than any other when constructing our bags and totes. A good mid-weight is great for creating structure, while still allowing for flexibility. It's our go-to interfacing for larger flaps, and is the perfect layer between a décor weight exterior and a quilting-weight lining. It can crease if folded, so it's best to keep it out of seams. We used it on our Messenger Style Brief and our Zippered Pouch Trio. Firm Interfacing When we say firm, we mean firm! This type of interfacing is quite rigid and meant for projects where you want a very defined shape. We like to use it for round totes as well as the round tote's cousin: the structured basket. It can also work well to stabilize the base of a bag. We used it for our Jumbo Fabric Tub and our Tool Tote. Best Interfacing Solutions for Bags and Totes Chart Preview For a high quality PDF, please click here: Interfacing Solutions for Bags and Totes. After downloading, you can then save and/or print the PDF as a handy reference in your sewing room and when shopping.

(find Part One of this tutorial HERE!) The method for binding the raw edges of your storage cube is basically the same as binding a quilt. I've actually tried a couple ways of binding these cubes, and this one seems to work the best. STEP ONE: Start with a SQUARE side up. Lay your binding along the edge of the square with the raw edges lined up. (I moved mine over so you could see how I layered it.) STEP TWO: Sew with 1/4" seam allowance, stopping 1/4" before the end of your cube. Backstitch. (Make sure all the excess fabric is out of the way so you don't end up sewing the bottom of your cube into the seam allowance!) STEP THREE: Rotate your cube one turn counter-clockwise. Pull the excess fabric up and out of the way. Fold your binding upwards so the raw edges of the binding create a straight line with the raw edges of your cube, as shown. STEP FOUR: You will now fold your binding down, once again lining up the raw edges with your square. (You can't see it yet, but this is creating a fancy-schmancy mitered corner!) STEP FIVE: Backstitch until you are 1/4" from the edge, then sew forward again 1/4" shy of the next corner. Repeat Steps Three and Four for this corner, then sew all the way to the final edge. Your cube should look like this! Now, repeat Steps One through Five on the other side! STEP SIX: Lay your cube so the binding is behind the raw edge of your cube, as shown. Fold the binding over the raw edge, encasing the raw edges inside. You will now finish attaching your binding! STEP SEVEN: Sew along the folded edge of your binding. Try to match the seam allowance inside, if possible. When you get to the corner, stop (once AGAIN!) 1/4" from the end. STEP EIGHT: Fold the bottom edge up, creating a pretty little mitered corner, as shown. I use a pin as a stiletto to guide that little fold into the machine. Once your needle pricks down into the edge of the corner, stop with the needle down and turn your cube. Then continue sewing to the next corner, mitering it the same way. Repeat Steps Six through Eight for the other side! STEP NINE: The exciting part! Grab your stack o' inserts and start stuffing them into the "pockets!" If you find that it's too tight a squeeze to get them in there, just trim them down a little. Your cube is taking shape!! All that's left is binding that top edge! STEP TEN: The top edge binding is a little bit tricky because your cube is now stiff, making it a little more fiddly to get through your machine. You are actually going to carefully pin the binding to the OUTSIDE edge of your cube, lining up all those raw edges, because you will be sewing it from the inside. On one of your foldy sides, leave your binding dangling in the middle, as shown. Leave a little excess hanging there! :o) STEP ELEVEN: Starting close to the corner of your "dangly ends" side, SEW! using a 1/4" seam allowance. Look how I had to put my cube around my sewing machine! Ha ha! STEP TWELVE: Gently pull your cube out flat in front of your machine. Stop near the corner once you get back to your "dangly side." STEP THIRTEEN: Overlap your two edges and trim so there is 1/2" overlap. STEP FOURTEEN: You will then pull the two ends away from the cube (it's handy that it folds here!) and face the ends right sides together. Sew them together with 1/4" seam allowance. Press the seam allowance open with your fingernail, then re-fold your binding. You will then finish attaching the binding at your machine. The final step is to pull the folded edge of your binding around the raw edges (like you did in Step Six), and finish attaching your binding. DONE!! Just a bit tricky here and there, but definitely doable -- and trust me, it gets easier as you go along! :o) I love how they fold up -- -- so nice and flat! I've made about half a dozen of these already, and it gets easier and easier every time. They are addicting to make, and so cute! You could adapt these instructions to make cubes of other sizes as well. I made this size first because it worked out economically with my plastic canvas, and because it is a perfect fit for eight I-Spy Blocks -- which is what I made my original storage cube for in the first place! :o)