7 Pages of Easy Sewing Exercises For Beginner Sewers Becoming proficient at sewing is really a matter of time spent...
Sewing for charity is a great way to help others. Here's 12 sewing charities to helps right now perfect for sewing beginners up to seasoned sewists.
Stitching lace insertion to fabric is the first technique that we learn when I teach heirloom sewing by machine. This is not a strong application of lace and best used on collars, yokes, or sleeves. Lace insertion is the lace that is straight on both edges. If one side of the lace feels rougher than the other, this is the wrong side of the lace. I have used a contrasting color thread for the photos. Use a fine machine thread that matches the lace and a 60/8 size machine needle. Starch and press the lace and fabric. Using a wash-away marker, mark the lace placement lines on the fabric. Set the sewing machine on straight stitch length of 2.0 and stitch close to the edge of the lace down both sides. I prefer to stitch from top to bottom each time to prevent the fabric and lace from distorting. Turn the fabric to the wrong side, and carefully cut the fabric between the stitching lines, being careful not to cut the lace. Press the fabric away from the lace. On the right side of the fabric, using a zigzag stitch of 2.0 width and 0.7 length, stitch over the previous stitching line. The stitch should "zig" into the lace and "zag" into the fabric. On the wrong side of the fabric, using blunt scissors, trim away the excess fabric. Starch and press the fabric and lace before continuing with your garment. I first started doing heirloom sewing about 15 years ago while doing custom sewing for "Joy's of Smocking" in Decatur, AL. I still love working with lace and fabric!
Free kippah sewing pattern with written directions and video tutorial. Sewing for Hanukkah, Passover or any other time you need a kippah.
Use the best kam snaps tutorial and see how to add kam snaps to nearly everything - so easy!
Sarah demonstrates how to print the appliqué shapes on the stabilizer and how to use them for machine appliqué.
FINALLY! -- IT IS READY! -- WELL, MOST OF IT IS. DISCLAIMER: This is in no way intended to be a complete description of all the different issues regarding crotch fit. It is ONLY a discussion of my own personal journey and the conclusions I have come to. I hope it will help you if you are new at sewing. It sure would have helped me when I was a new sewer. First, you need to watch these two videos so you can learn HOW to make your "fish bowl" (as Phylly calls it). You cannot make the corrections to your pants pattern if you don't have the "fish bowl". #1: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Iv7F111VHUQ #2: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EU-OKoV3PAs The book referenced in the video is: Fitting & Pattern Alteration by Elizabeth Liechty, Judith Rasband and Della Pottberg-Steineckert As I understand it, this is a college course book. I know Lorraine Henry sells it at her shows. You can google it to find other sources. Phylly and I both have it, and we HIGHLY recommend it. Warning: It is about $100. This tutorial teaches you about the crotch curve information in this book as I have applied it to my patterns. There is MUCH, MUCH more about every kind of alteration and correction imagineable in the book. Now, you need to draw your bowls -- hopefully, you have a bendy curve. By the way, you have to put the three rubberbands on the curve yourself -- they don't come with it. Here is a picture of my bowl next to Phylly's: Here is a picture of Phylly's bowl ON TOP of my bowl. This should show you right away why there is a crotch curve issue in the first place. How on earth could we use the same crotch curve that comes in the pattern? Even if it happened to fit one of us, it would not fit the other one. I would like to tell you Sure-Fit Design owners that Glenda's way of measuring crotch length with the add 1, subtract 1 system, comes quite close to a very good fit. I wouldn't even mess with this unless your bottom drops below your crotch, or your back crotch is quite long like mine is. It is easy to get depth and length mixed together and not know which to fix. Following is a picture of a brand new pants pattern BEFORE making any corrections to it. (Note: This has nothing to do with Sure-Fit Designs, but I could use an SFD blueprint and correct it the same way.) I have my crotch point lined up with the pattern's crotch point. The first thing I notice is how much higher the waist is than mine. If I just made this pattern up, I wouldn't know it I needed to fix the crotch DEPTH or the LENGTH or BOTH. I would know, however, that they did NOT fit right. I can either shorten the pattern now, or just draw the hipline on it to fix the crotch curve, and shorten the depth later. I think I did both. In this picture, notice how the hipline of the FRONT and the BACK of the paper pattern line exactly up with my BOWL hipline. Also, the crotch line lines up all the way across. Notice how my bottom drops LOWER than the crotch line. I have heard Peggy Sagers say this is impossible, but there's the proof right there. It is very common AND a very good reason crotch curves have to be adjusted! This pictures shows my bowl lined up with the crotch line and the low hip line of the BACK pattern piece. I have matched the hip line of my bowl at the STITCHING line at the hip line on the pattern. HOW did I find the hip line on the pattern???? This was a real issue for me, but so simple. MEASURE IT there on your bowl. Taaa Daaaa!!!! Notice too that the crotch point on my bowl -- NOT the bottom of the bowl -- lines up with the crotch line on the paper pattern. You can see the blue dashed line where I simply traced the bottom of my bowl from the hip line to MY crotch point (where the rubber band was). The book shows several ways to trim the pattern and push it and pull it and slide it and ...... I just traced my shape. Notice in this picture: The PINK original crotch curve of the paper pattern. The BLUE crotch curve made with my bowl. BIG DIFFERENCE!!! Notice in this picture how part of my curve is HIGHER (blue) and part of my curve is LOWER (pink) than the paper pattern's. Notice how much LENGTH (green) I had to add to the back crotch. Notice how my bottom drops BELOW the crotchline. Below is ME in between the CORRECTED paper pattern pieces. You can see I will fit into that curve exactly right. It turned out that there was not much of a correction at all on the front pattern piece, so I haven't shown it with changes. Notice that I simply tapered my new extended BACK CROTCH POINT down to about the knee level, and I curved it in a bit. URGENT AND VERY IMPORTANT TIP: Make very sure you put your inseams together as though you were going to sew your pants together. The front is probably not going to fit the back anymore after that correction. You will have to lower or raise the crotch point on the front so it will sew to the back. In this case, it was only about 1/2" difference. Begin by matching the seams at the BOTTOM HEM edge of the pant and match them going up to the crotch. You will see right away if you need to make an adjustment. I hope I didn't make this sound too complicated. It was VERY complicated for me for a long time. It helps so very much to have a sewing buddy to swap thoughts with. You know what they say: Two heads are better than one! Hugs, Joy
Use the best kam snaps tutorial and see how to add kam snaps to nearly everything - so easy!
Learn how to sew a narrow hem (easy even on chiffon) using a ban roll tape. You will like this video sewing tutorial on how to sew a rolled hem on chiffon without a special rolled hem foot.
Looking for the perfect sewing basket? Make your own to fit your stitching needs. Great for Applique, English Paper piecing, handwork or for taking to a
Am I the only one that has a basket full of charging cords? It seems that everything has it's own charging cord, and all of the cords ...
Have you always wanted to learn to sew? Do you know that you can easily teach yourself to sew? You can! Follow these 5 tips and you can save your family thousands
Hey friends! I have been trying to think of ways to be more environmentally friendly when I am quilting. I am really thoughtful about the beautiful fabrics I select and I want to use every scrap so that nothing goes to waste. Today I am sharing a scrap buster tutorial to make a quilted bookmark! How to make a quilted bookmark: Materials: Fusible Midweight Interfacing Quilter's Cotton Scraps Sewing Machine Iron & Pressing Mat Other Helpful materials: 6 1/2
Sew on paper to make beautiful hand-sewn greeting cards. Add the card to a thoughtful gift to add a homemade touch to gift-giving.
1. Research There are so many great sewing blogs out there and a lot of them share tips for specific patterns or dilemmas. Before I start any new project, I do research on what other people have to say about the pattern regarding fit and construction. It can save a lot of headaches to see
Learn how to create a perfect mitered fold while sewing corners by using an easy double fold hem method. Stacy Grissom shows you how.
Couture expert Susan Khalje shares her techniques and tips on how to add hooks, eyes, snaps, and other small finishing details to achieve a better fitting waistband.
'Etui \['E]`tui"\ ([asl]`tw[-e]"), n. [F.] A case for one or several small articles; esp., a box in which scissors, tweezers, and other articles of toilet or of daily use are carried. Source: Webster's Revised Unabridged Dictionary (1913) Isn't this wonderful???...
Anisah is a contemporary shawl featuring a textured cable and lace panel surrounded by classic garter stitch. The asymmetrical triangular shaping begins with just a few stitches which then flow into a wide panel composed of a graceful cable flanked by mesh lace. While that panel forms the left edge of the shawl, the remainder of the body is filled with squishy garter goodness. The combination of lace, cables, reverse stockinette and garter stitch knitted in worsted weight makes the texture of all the various design elements really pop. I love to design shawls which are especially appropriate for social knitting. Anisah has no pattern repeats, has a simple 8-row chart repeat, and once you get past the early charts which set up the wide panel and body, you’ll have everything memorized in no time. I named the shawl Anisah—which is an Arabic name meaning “good friend”—as a nod to the wonderful friendships that result from knitters bonding over a shared love of our craft. Anisah is also an excellent pattern for adventuresome beginners to try their hand at simple lace, cables and triangular shaping. Plus it’s a fun and fast knit for more experienced knitters looking for a relaxing TV knit. Worked in worsted weight, it knits up in no time even at the generous pattern size. So you still have time to knock one out for warm and snuggly holiday gifting this year! The Anisah pattern includes both charts and full written out instructions for those of who you prefer not to use charts. While dimensions and yardage are provided for worsted weight, Anisah could effectively be worked in other yarn weights, although sport weight or heavier is recommended to show off the texture to its best advantage. Also included are detailed blocking instructions. SIZE AND YARDAGE: My lilac sample shawl pictured used about 540 yards (494 m) and measures 63 x 27” (160 x 69 cm) relaxed after blocking. Test knitted shawls used between 540-590 yards (494-540 m) on US Size 8 (5.0 mm) needles. Note that the US Size 10 (6.0 mm) is used for the bind off only. The size is easy to customize by changing the number of Chart 4 repeats; full instructions are provided, including how to calculate stitch counts for any size. The yellow green shawl (worked in Hazel Knits Cadence, “Sedge” colorway) and the deep aqua (worked in Hazel Knits Cadence, “Laguna” colorway) are slightly larger versions, both having 2 extra repeats of Chart 4 for a total of 28 repeats. Both of these versions used about 600 yards (549 m).
Crystal holder for scissors and other sewing tools (via A Arte de Costurar (The Art of Sewing) / like this use)
How to Sew Perfect Scallops. A photo tutorial to help you learn how to sew scalloped edges for the Highland Avenue House.
"Every child who sews with a will should have a wee birdie to help with his bill."I have long been fascinated with some of the clever inventions of the past, the sewing bird being one of them. The sewing bird, also known as a sewing clamp, hemming clamp, or third hand, was used in the 18th and early 19th centuries to attach one end of a piece of cloth firmly to a table to enable the seamstress to hold her sewing taut with one hand while stitching with the other.(Image Source) Commonly used in the Victorian home, this third hand clamps to a table while the beak holds the fabric to be sewn. Depressing the tail releases the beak enabling the fabric to be repositioned or removed. Before the invention of the sewing machine, clothing, sheets, and other household items were sewn by hand, this handy little clamp was often used for hemming. (Reproduction Sewing Bird for sale at Victorian Trading Company) Early clamps can be traced to the late 17th century. The "sewing bird" came into fashion early in the 18th century. Invented in the Georgian period in England, it was the first device that allowed the material to be moved without having to loosen the clamp. Many were made for the travel trade and were used for advertisements. Most were made of polished and turned wood or iron. Victorian clamps were made of brass, iron, steel and painted wood. (Image Source) In America the first sewing birds were called "grippers." Not used widely until mid-19th century, they became popular as a luxury item, which a young man would present to his intended bride months before the wedding. These were made in many varieties; birds with or without a pin cushion, on a spindle or not, deer, dogs, fish, frogs, snakes, dolphins, cherubs and people. Small thread winders, spool holders, netting hooks and rug braiders were also common. (Antique Sewing Bird) After the invention of the sewing machine the need for grippers was diminished but they were still manufactured as novelties. The Singer Sewing Machine Company produced a few as late as 1980. These original inexpensive novelties of yesteryear are expensive antique collectibles today. (Reproduction Sewing Birds sold at My Secret Shelf) I have seen these marvels in antique stores but don't actually own one, however, I had a need for making my own version of a "sewing bird". I found myself frustrated at always have to run to my sewing basket while crafting when I needed a handy pin, needle, or thread. I began my solution with a faded pale blue feed sack, an old cork/metal bottle stopper, and a vintage iron receipt holder found at a flea market... I sketched a little bird body, tail, and wings onto the feed sack with a Mark-B-Gone marker adding detail lines to the body, tail, and wings, which I then stitched over in brown embroidery floss... After the pieces were stitched together and stuffed, I removed the marker lines with a damp cloth and then used Fabri-tac to attach the tail and wings... I used a strong glue (E-6000) to glue the bottle stopper to the bottom of a small purchased twig and moss nest... And then I glued the bird into the nest, tacking the wings to the sides of the nest... I slipped spools of thread onto the receipt holder and pushed the cork bottle stopper down onto the sharp tip of the holder, then filling my sewing birds nest with needful supplies, like a mini scissor tucked under one wing (These were a gift from my sweet friend Pam and they are so sturdy and cut so well)... A large needle and thimble under the other wing... Pins and needles perch on the back of the bird... A little surprise pocket in the tail conceals a needle threader (I hate to admit that my eyes are just not what they used to the and I actually need one of these now!)... Here is my new sewing bird sitting on the worktable and all ready for service with no more running to the sewing basket! (For more great sewing ideas visit http://topreveal.com/diy-sewing-craft-ideas) They say that necessity is the mother of invention. I truly believe that and I am very happy with how my little version of a handy and helpful "sewing bird" turned out. "Sew", if you could create a needful invention to solve one of your problems, what would it be? ""Blessings, Miss Sandy
"Every child who sews with a will should have a wee birdie to help with his bill."I have long been fascinated with some of the clever inventions of the past, the sewing bird being one of them. The sewing bird, also known as a sewing clamp, hemming clamp, or third hand, was used in the 18th and early 19th centuries to attach one end of a piece of cloth firmly to a table to enable the seamstress to hold her sewing taut with one hand while stitching with the other.(Image Source) Commonly used in the Victorian home, this third hand clamps to a table while the beak holds the fabric to be sewn. Depressing the tail releases the beak enabling the fabric to be repositioned or removed. Before the invention of the sewing machine, clothing, sheets, and other household items were sewn by hand, this handy little clamp was often used for hemming. (Reproduction Sewing Bird for sale at Victorian Trading Company) Early clamps can be traced to the late 17th century. The "sewing bird" came into fashion early in the 18th century. Invented in the Georgian period in England, it was the first device that allowed the material to be moved without having to loosen the clamp. Many were made for the travel trade and were used for advertisements. Most were made of polished and turned wood or iron. Victorian clamps were made of brass, iron, steel and painted wood. (Image Source) In America the first sewing birds were called "grippers." Not used widely until mid-19th century, they became popular as a luxury item, which a young man would present to his intended bride months before the wedding. These were made in many varieties; birds with or without a pin cushion, on a spindle or not, deer, dogs, fish, frogs, snakes, dolphins, cherubs and people. Small thread winders, spool holders, netting hooks and rug braiders were also common. (Antique Sewing Bird) After the invention of the sewing machine the need for grippers was diminished but they were still manufactured as novelties. The Singer Sewing Machine Company produced a few as late as 1980. These original inexpensive novelties of yesteryear are expensive antique collectibles today. (Reproduction Sewing Birds sold at My Secret Shelf) I have seen these marvels in antique stores but don't actually own one, however, I had a need for making my own version of a "sewing bird". I found myself frustrated at always have to run to my sewing basket while crafting when I needed a handy pin, needle, or thread. I began my solution with a faded pale blue feed sack, an old cork/metal bottle stopper, and a vintage iron receipt holder found at a flea market... I sketched a little bird body, tail, and wings onto the feed sack with a Mark-B-Gone marker adding detail lines to the body, tail, and wings, which I then stitched over in brown embroidery floss... After the pieces were stitched together and stuffed, I removed the marker lines with a damp cloth and then used Fabri-tac to attach the tail and wings... I used a strong glue (E-6000) to glue the bottle stopper to the bottom of a small purchased twig and moss nest... And then I glued the bird into the nest, tacking the wings to the sides of the nest... I slipped spools of thread onto the receipt holder and pushed the cork bottle stopper down onto the sharp tip of the holder, then filling my sewing birds nest with needful supplies, like a mini scissor tucked under one wing (These were a gift from my sweet friend Pam and they are so sturdy and cut so well)... A large needle and thimble under the other wing... Pins and needles perch on the back of the bird... A little surprise pocket in the tail conceals a needle threader (I hate to admit that my eyes are just not what they used to the and I actually need one of these now!)... Here is my new sewing bird sitting on the worktable and all ready for service with no more running to the sewing basket! (For more great sewing ideas visit http://topreveal.com/diy-sewing-craft-ideas) They say that necessity is the mother of invention. I truly believe that and I am very happy with how my little version of a handy and helpful "sewing bird" turned out. "Sew", if you could create a needful invention to solve one of your problems, what would it be? ""Blessings, Miss Sandy
Crafts, DIYs, food, green living, backyard sustainability
Sewing with knits can be a daunting experience for someone who is new to them, but it doesn't have to be. As someone who took the plunge as a seamstress awhile ago, I recently acquired a new appreciation for working with knits as a designer. Knowledge is key, so before my first knit pattern is released this week, I wanted to share a little bit about my experience of designing a knit pattern. There is a lot to consider when sewing with knits: types of knits, sergers vs. sewing machines, types of needles, stretch percentage, stretch recovery, cutting knit fabric, etc. I'm going to be focusing mostly on stretch percentage and recovery and will provide links to some great resources that cover the other topics. To be honest, when I've sewn with knits in the past, I never paid too much attention to stretch percentage and recovery, I just sewed with fabrics that I liked. The results were overall quite satisfying, although there were a few patterns that caused me to think "Oooo, the size is a bit off on this one.". Never before did I have the eye opening experience that I had last week when I sewed two samples of the same pattern. A very wonderful group of testers had been sewing up my Stellar's Vest pattern, and sending me their results. Through no fault of their own, the results came back ranging from perfect sizing, to very large. How was this happening, when they were using the same pattern and even the same size? I adjusted the sizes in the pattern, and had another set of testers do a second round of testing. The results were better, but still inconsistent. I figured I had better sew up a couple more samples of my own. I sewed Anja a size three Stellar's Vest in the A-line version with some adorable fabric from L'Oiseau called Deerly Beloved. (Side note - I highly recommend everything at L'Oiseau. The quality and service is absolutely impeccable.) Ok, back to my experience. The vest turned out great…the fit was perfect in the chest, armholes were good, everything about it was comfortable and cute. She wore it immediately and wouldn't take it off until bedtime. The next day, we did a little mother-daughter local fabric shopping (something that is getting more and more fun now that she enjoys selecting her own fabric!). She chose some pretty Michael Miller Blossoms 100% cotton knit. It was a great choice as I wanted something that would match nicely with Tobias' vest. I took the fabric home, pre-washed it (a must with knits), and sewed up another Stellar's Vest during nap time using exactly the SAME pattern pieces I used the day before. Nothing changed other than the fabric. Here was the result: What changed? Did my daughter mysteriously shrink from one day to the next? HA, of course, not! :) But the second garment is a full two sizes too big! This is when I realized the importance of not 'winging' the use of my knit fabric. I should've known better, I admit it. But here's the positive that comes out of this experience: I'm hoping to prevent you from making my mistake! The first fabric had a stretch percentage of over 50% and excellent recovery, while the second, around 25% with good recovery. How can you tell with your fabrics? Cut a 4"X4"(10cmX10cm) piece of fabric, fold it perpendicular with the grain line. Download and print this stretch percentage guide with tips for sewing with knits, hold the fabric firmly at zero, and stretch it as far as you can. Alternatively, you can use a ruler using the same principle. Either way, just make sure you do this. It makes a world of difference! DOWNLOAD HERE So now that you know how to determine the stretch percentage, how do you use this valuable information? Well, always read your patterns carefully and only use the fabric type and stretch percentage recommended by the designer. If the pattern does not specify, contact the designer and ask, if possible. Or, don't use your best fabric the first time around. You can size up or down depending on the result of your first garment. Stretch recovery is also very important to consider when sewing with knits. When you stretch your fabric, does it return to its original size and shape? Or is it now a little wider than it was before? You definitely want to use fabric that has a very good recovery. This recovery corresponds with the quality of the fabric, after all, who wants to wear a garment that becomes wider each time it's worn? I also prefer my knit fabrics to have some weight and/or a bit of lycra to give them that extra bit of recovery and avoid flimsy, lightweight or sheer knits. Of course, this all depends on the pattern you are using, so keep that in mind as well. In the photos below, it's clear to see which fabric has better recovery. The top one basically stayed the same width after it was stretched, while the second one returned to its original size. You can also feel a big difference between the two; the top one has a slightly, rough texture, and the bottom is soft and smooth. What I failed to do for my testers, was specify the stretch percentage and recovery needed to achieve the best results with my pattern. Incidentally, the fabrics of all my samples had a stretch percentage 50% or more and very good to excellent recovery until the final floral one. So, I think a logical explanation is that stretch percentage and recovery played a pretty major part in the varied results (especially after the first round of testing). Lesson learned! Here are some other tips I find useful to keep in mind when sewing with knits: Use a stretch or ballpoint needle. The rounded tip passes easily between the knit threads by separating them. Press often. When you sew a seam, and it looks wavy, giving it a good press will more than likely fix the problem. Do not pull or stretch the fabric as you sew. This can create those very wavy seams. There is a time and place for stretching, such as when attaching bindings. Follow the directions in your pattern carefully. Want to read more about using knits? Here are some great resources to help you have a positive experience when sewing with knits: Sewing With Knits (Kitschy Coo) Sewing With Knit Fabrics (sew mccool) Sewing With Jersey 101 (Prudent Baby) Tips for Sewing With Knit Fabrics (Oliver + S) Knits 101 (Shwin & Shwin) Working With Stretch and Knit Fabric (My Pattern Designer) Cutting Knit Fabric (Mad Mim) Ask Dana - No Fear. How to Sew with KNIT Fabrics (Made) I'm so glad to have had this experience so I can pass on what I've learned. Knits can be so fun to work with and great for children's clothing because they can be so comfortable and versatile, but it really helps to know how to use them properly. I can't stress enough how important it is to read through your patterns so you can achieve the results the designer intends for you to have. Never again will I blindly use knit fabric simply on account of the colour or pattern. It's worth the time to test out the fabric first so that you can be happier with the results. If you have any tips or tricks that help you have success with knits, please leave a comment and let us know. Thanks!
This beautiful Quilted Accordion Pouch expands out and gives you five pockets to keep your jewelry, small lingerie items, make-up, or other special trinkets.
雨季です。 雨止みのひととき。ここの所、天気が急変してザーッと勢い良く雨が降ったかと思うと、スッとやんだり。田んぼのカエルたちも忙しそうです。雨季なんだなぁ…としみじみしている場合では有りません。相変わらずのワラーチ制作に加えて、今週末のワ
Discover the double box, a pleating that I have created to make kilts more fluid and pleasant to wear.
Title within ornamental border
Learn how to get a smooth, beautiful edge, avoiding that stair-step look of the normal bind-off with the Sloped Bind-Off Method. A simple technique that changes your...
Useful images There were others, and as soon as I figure out how to import PageMaker images to my blog, I will . Sprang Sites and Links:...
Okay guys, this post has turned into a pretty long and reasonably epic one and that's because there's not actually a lot of information out there on doing Full Bust Adjustments on fitted knit patterns. There are lots of tutorials for FBA's on wovens, but not knits - which I suppose comes down to the fact that knits are much more forgiving. That being said, I completely understand that for some of you, an FBA may be needed, even on a stretchy knit like Bronte. I would always do a muslin to check if you can get away without doing one first though, and one thing you may want to consider trying first is cheating the extra room you need in the front by grading up a size or two in the bust on the front pattern piece only, and then adding length at the 'Lengthen/shorten' line on both pattern pieces. If you don't think that this is going to work for you though, then please read on... Doing an FBA (Full Bust Adjustment) The goal of an FBA is to add width and length to the front pattern piece to accommodate a bust that is larger than a B or C cup (most often a B cup in commercial patterns), without messing with the neckline. To do this, you generally slash and spread your pattern. (Note - you will end up creating a bust dart with a standard FBA, but don't worry, we'll talk about that in a moment). I'm not going to go into detail about how to do a standard FBA, mostly because there are so many great tutorials out there already (I love how clear this one is, but as I said, there are lots of great ones). What I would like to point out though is that when you take your high bust measurement and bust measurement to get how much you should be adding to your bust line, remember that you are dealing with a fitted knit pattern that is meant to have some negative ease (i.e it's deliberately smaller than your measurements and that's where the stretch comes in, to skim and hug your body). For this reason, I wouldn't add in the normal amount you would on a woven. Perhaps try adding half your normal amount to Bronte first, and then see if you need more. For example, if you have a 1 inch difference, try adding in 1/2 an inch first. One other thing you'll need to consider is where your apex actually sits on the pattern. Due to the fact that Bronte is a knit with negative ease, you can't necessarily hold the pattern up to you to find it (as you would on a woven). I honestly don't really have any scientific way of finding this either. All I can suggest is that you try on some other similar tops, locate your apex on them, and then transfer this to your Bronte pattern piece. Alternatively, make up a muslin without the FBA and locate it once you've got it on, then do an FBA on the pattern piece. I can't think of an easier way, but if you have one, do let us know! What to do with that dart you've now created... Now that you've done your standard FBA, you're going to be left with a side bust dart, and that's because you've added length to the side seam of the front and not to the back. That dart takes care of the extra length you've added so that your front and back pattern pieces will match along the side seam. Below is my 'faux' FBA on my mini Bronte pattern piece - I've just guessed where the apex may be and then have slashed and spread my pattern piece to create the imaginary extra room needed and therefore the side dart... Do you see that pesky dart we created on the side seam underneath the arm pit? Bronte (and most knit t-shirts) are dart-less, so how do you deal with this extra side length in a knit t-shirt? Below are three options, but there are probably more, so do let us know if you have one. 1 - Ease the dart into the side seam If you don't want to sew in a side seam dart, then you could think about rounding out the dart and then easing the excess into your side seam. I would approach this in much the same way I would when easing a sleeve cap into a set-in sleeve. Put some basting stitches into the seam allowance, gather them lightly into a 'cup' and sew up the side seam. If you have a length-wise stretch in your fabric, you could also think about stretching your back piece down a little to help accommodate any excess side ease from the front. Be careful when doing this though as you don't want to stretch your fabric so much that you end up with wrinkles and ripples in the final garment. 2 - Dart Manipulation 1. Once you've performed your FBA, you'll be left with a pattern piece that looks something like the below. You'll have a 'dart' at the side bust that you might want to rotate that dart out, so... Does this picture look like half a Transformer to anyone else? 2. Transfer the straight line of your bottom left pattern piece (the red dashed line below) onto the paper below your pattern, you'll use this as a guide in the next few steps. 3. At the pivot point circled below, bring your bottom left bodice section back up and tape in place. Below is what that'll look like, with the grey dashed line indicating the line you drew in step 2. 4. Cut back along that old 'dart' leg indicated by the red dashed line (yes, the one you just joined back up in step 3) BUT leave a pivot point at the side seam (indicated by the circle below). Using your pivot point, bring your bottom left section back up and align it with your original, dashed line. 5. True up your bottom hem. And you're done!! The honey coloured outline below is the original piece - you can see that you've kept the additional length and width that came from doing the FBA, but you've eliminated the dart at the same time. So that, Ladies, is how it's done. Let me know if you have any questions or have any success with this method! I'd love to hear about it. 3 - Sew the dart in For some people, sewing the dart into the t-shirt might just be the best option, particularly if you have a large cup size. This might seem like a strange thing to have in a knit t-shirt, but it's only strange because it's uncommon, and uncommon doesn't mean it's a bad thing. It will mean you will have a beautifully fitting top, and if you have a busy print, you probably won't even notice that little dart line. Two issues you may come across with sewing a dart in however are - if you have a lightweight knit, the dart may move around underneath, and with a heavier knit, you may see the outline from the right side. To combat both of these issues, you could cut the dart out close to the seam once it's been sewn in. Do you have any tricks for doing an FBA with knits? xx J
2 Ways to use cross vest.Use it as cowl or sweater THIS IS NOT READY MADE ITEM! It is KNITTING PATTERN! AVAILABLE ONLY in ENGLISH! If you view this listing different language from English please note - this listing has been translated from English by Etsy and the files with patterns will not be translated New version: Added row by row explanations SIZE S- M- L- XL YOU NEED: 350 (7 skeins)- 350 (7 skeins)- 400 (8 skeins)- 400 (8 skeins) g of DROPS Nepal 65% wool, 35% alpaca (or some other yarn with the same gauge) Weight/yardage: 50 g (1.76 ounces) = approx 75 m (82 yards) Recommended needle size: 4.5 – 5 mm (US 7-8; UK 7-6) Knitting tension: 10x10 cm = 17 st x 22 rows Skills needed This pattern is rather easy if you already know how to cast on, knit, purl, cable and bind off. Row by row explanations and also chart for making textures is included in instructions. Available English! ************************************************************ This pattern is for personal use only. © All rights reserved. No copying and no publishing elsewhere any material herein contained, without my permission. ************************************************************
Today you will learn how to adjust the bust on the Clementine knit dress and top. This tutorial can also be used for other princess-seamed garments too!
Stitching in the ditch is a quilting technique, but it’s a good one to know for other sewing projects as well. I don’t use it a ton, but occasionally when I’m making …
Invisible finish or in other words Invisible fasten off is a crochet technique to join stitches together and fasten off the yarn usually when crocheting in round. Traditional method to end the round is to join last stitch of the round with top of first stitch using slip stitch. Then to fasten off you cut the yarn,...
I am still trying my hand at different medieval crafts. So I came across Nålebinding or needle binding. Needle binding is the precursor of knitting & crocheting. With knitting & crocheting you are using loops to form a fabric. With needle binding on the other hand you are using more or less complicated knots. For
