I’m always looking for new and inspirational projects. And when I’m not doing that I am likely looking for new and lovely fabrics. Thank goodness my obsessions coincide!! A while back, …

This was another requested plushie. I'm considering also making the evolved form of Drifloon - Drifblim, but haven't gotten around to that yet. I'm sorry I don't have a picture of the back of him, but there's really nothing to show and my camera memory was full. *sigh* The pattern is mostly an easy one, the one major difference is the sculpting part. It's not hard, it's just to add some 'puffs' to the cloud cap, but it IS a nice and easy introduction to soft sculpting other things, like faces in dolls, etc. If you have ever sewn on a plushie and accidently pulled the thread too tight and created a 'dent', you've already done some 'sculpting' LOL If you find any problems, please let me know I'll fix them ASAP. :) DRIFLOON Materials: WW yarn in purple and small amounts in white, gold and black G Hook Fiberfill Yarn needle Sewing thread in black, white and gold and sewing needle NOTES: Gauge isn't important, just ensure that your hook and yarn sizes result in a fairly tight stitch that won't allow the fiberfil to show thru. Numbers at the end of rounds/rows indicate the total number of stitches that should be in the round/row. This pattern includes a little bit of 'sculpting' of the pieces. This is done by using a sewing thread that matches the piece you're working on and sewing through the piece indicated to create shapes and forms. (see the cloud cap on the drifloon, the puffs of the cloud are sculpted using sewing thread). Use a single strand of sewing thread when sculpting, and try to keep your stitches buried in creases of the crochet to make them mostly invisible. By pulling your stitches gently tighter, it creates the shapes in the piece. It's not necessary to be precise in this particular sculpting application, because there are never any two clouds exactly alike. BODY: Using purple: Rnd 1: 8 sc in magic ring (8) Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (16) Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24) Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (32) Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (40) Rnd 6: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (48) Rnd 7: sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (56) Rnd 8: sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (64) Rnd 9-15: sc in each sc around (64) Rnd 16: sc in next 6 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (56) Rnd 17: sc in next 5 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (48) Rnd 18: sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (40) Rnd 19: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (32) Being stuffing at this point and continue as you go along. Rnd 20: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (24) Rnd 21: sc in next sc, dec over next 2 sc around (16) Rnd 22: dec over next 2 sc around (8) F/O leaving a tail and then using chopstick or back of crochet hook, finish adding any stuffing you made need and shape to a ball. Weave in the tail and pull to close. NECK (flair at bottom of 'head/body'): Using purple: Rnd 1: Ch 16 sl st to form a ring, make sure not to twist the chain. Sc in each ch around (16) Rnd 2: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24) Rnd 3: *Ch 4. Sl st in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next ch dc in next ch. Sk 2 of rnd 1 and sl st in next sc.* repeat from * to * to end of rnd. Sl st to base of first ch 4. F/O weave in the ends and sew the 'neck' to the center of the bottom of the head/body (center the closing 'circle' in the middle of the neck for best placement) CLOUD CAP: Using white: Rnd 1: 8 sc in MR (8) Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (16) Rnd 3: sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in next 2 sc, sc next 6 sc, 2 sc in last 2 sc (20) Rnd 4: sc in next 7 sc, 2 sc in next 3 sc, sc next 7 sc, 2 sc in last 3 sc (26) Rnd 5: sc in next 9 sc, 2 sc in next 4 sc, sc next 9 sc, 2 sc in last 4 sc (34) Rnd 6: sc in next 16 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc next 16 sc, 2 sc in last sc (36) Rnd 7 sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (30) F/0 and stuff MODERATELY (you need some play in the firmness for the sculpting). Sew the 'cap' to the top of the head, using photo for placement help. TAIL OF CAP: Using white: Rnd 1: 4 sc in MR (4) Rnd 2: Sc in each sc around (4) Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (6) Rnd 4: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (9) Rnd 5: sc in each sc around (9) F/O stuff VERY lightly and sew tail to side of cloud cap at the base, to one side (see photo) Using sewing thread and needle, stitch random patterns in cloud cap using a running stitch, gently pull the stitch line to create 'random puffs' in the cloud. (make sure you like the puff before you fasten off the sewing the thread, if you don't like it, pull it out gently and redo it) NOSE: With gold: (make 2) Ch 11, sc in 2nd ch from hook and each chain across (10) Work one row even (10) F/O and weave in ends. Cross the two pieces and sew in the middle, then add to the 'face' of the drifloon. (see photo) EYES: Using black make 2: Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR (6) F/O and sew to face on either side of the 'nose' LEGS AND FEET: Feet (with gold make 2 ): Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR (6) Rnd 2: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (8) Rnd 3: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (10) Rnd 4: sc in each sc around (10) Row 5: Flatten the 'foot' and working through both 'sides' work 5 sc across . turn (5) Row 6: sc in first sc, in next sc work the following: dc, tr, dc, sl st next sc, in next sc work dc, tr, dc, sc in last sc. F/O String Legs: Using black ww yarn, ch 35, sl st in 'top' of foot (see photo) Ch 1 and sl st in each ch to end. Attach each leg to the side of the 'neck' (see photo for placement help) Finishing: I also added a hanger by attaching fishing line to the top of the cap and an old earring hook so that he would hang neatly. I kinda like how he gently moves and turns in the draft of the room, it gives him a little life. Drifloon and Pokemon are copyright Nintendo. This pattern is an original pattern by Linda Potts (June 2009). Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint it on your site. You may keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern.

Do you want to crochet a little cute CAT but you hate sewing parts together? Have a look to this FREE pattern to crochet a cat all-in-one!

Make the cute and unique dinosaur for your children's spying and home decoration by getting inspiration from these crochet dinosaur patterns.

I have been crocheting tons of pouches lately and I love lining them with a coordinating fabric and finishing them with a zipper. I'm not an expert at sewing by any means, but this method works for me. I use it every time and I am always happy with the results. I hope you enjoy this tutorial! In the pictures shown in this tutorial, I am lining the Lee Change Purse. But, this method will work for any pouch...just adjust the fabric and zipper sizes. Materials needed- for the fabric lining & zipper (if desired): • 5" zipper • Fabric- 2 pieces that are roughly 5" high by 6"wide •Needle & thread •Sewing machine (optional) •a few ball head straight pins Finished size: • Lee Change Purse- 4" high by 5" wide Making the Lining: 1. Cut out 2 pieces of fabric that are about 1/2-inch larger around than your pouch. 2. Lay one piece of the fabric, right side up, on your worktop. Place the zipper, right side up, on top of the fabric, centered. 3. Sew along the top edge of the zipper. Use a zipper foot if you can, it's so much easier than using a regular foot like I did. 4. Flip the fabric over and fold the zipper back, so that it is laying flat on the wrong side of the fabric. 5. Now sew along this side. You can sew along the same line you just made. The right side of the fabric will look like this now. 6. Lay your other piece of fabric right side up. Then, place the zippered piece on it so that the right side of the zipper is facing up and is lined up along the top edge of the right side-facing fabric piece. 7. Sew along the top edge of the zipper. 8. Again, flip open the fabric and sew along the zipper again. After you sew, the inside of the fabric will look like this. 9. Fold the fabric closed so that the zipper lays flat and secure it closed we a few pins along the zipper line. 10. Lay your pouch on top of the fabric. Line the top of the pouch up with the zipper. 11. Trace a line around the pouch using a pen or pencil. 12. Pin the fabric together. 13. Sew just inside (maybe about 1/8" inside) the line you just traced on the fabric. It does not have to be perfect so don't stress out about it. 14. Trim away the extra fabric. 15. Remove your pins and see how the lining fits inside of your pouch. If it seems too bulky/big, sew another line inside the one you sewed before and then trim away extra fabric again. If it fits just right, then proceed on to attach it to your pouch. 16. Use a few pins to hold the lining to the pouch while you sew it in. Use a needle and thread for this part. You are going to hide your stitches in between the crochet and the fabric (where the wrong sides touch). Work right along the zipper line. In the inside of the pouch, you will see the inside of your stitches along the zipper line. On the outside of the pouch you will not see any stitches. Go from the inside zipper line, out to under the row of slip stitches on the pouch. When coming back the other way, go under the row of slip stitches, making sure the thread will be hidden when you pull tight, to the zipper line. Continue this around. Make sure you pull each stitch tightly so that the lining is completely secured to the outer pouch. When you have gone all the way around, secure the thread with a few small knots that are hidden under the crochet portion. Cut the thread. Remove the pins. And enjoy! You did it :) Here is what it looks all finished :) Skein and Hook Copyright © 2014 The pattern and photographs contained in this document are the property of Skein and Hook. This pattern is available for personal use only. This pattern may be printed for your personal use only. You may not in any form copy, redistribute, sell, or represent this pattern or photos as your own. Please do not copy this post and claim it as your own. Please do not republish photos from this post and claim them as your own. You are welcomed to sell the items that you make from this pattern- please just credit me as the designer with a link to this post.

Forget which row you're on? Counting rows in crochet does not have to be difficult. In fact, here are seven EASY ways to help you figure it out!

I'm kinda picky when it comes to pillow covers and their openings. Envelope style openings are not my favorite. They're great for when you don't have a zipper or when you want to keep your cost down, but I don't' like how they can bulge out...they don't keep the pillow's shape very well. Buttons are OK and can add a pretty detail to the pillow, but they just don't work in my house with all the hoodlums laying around. I prefer a stuffed pillow where I can throw the whole thing in the wash or a zippered cover. I used to sew my zippers on the side seam. Recently, I came up with a new way to add my zippers. I think it looks much nicer AND I've created a tutorial just for you! Zippered 14" Pillow Cover Tutorial Supplies Fabric 15" x 33.5" Ruler Rotary Cutter & Mat or Scissors Sewing Machine Zipper Foot Coordinating Thread 12" zipper (or longer) Cut fabric for front 15" x 15" Cut fabric for back 6.5" x 15" and 12" x 15" Center zipper on long edge of 6.5" fabric line up right side of zipper to right side of fabric and sew in place using a zipper foot. Fold fabric back, wrong sides together, leaving a "flap" over right side of zipper and leaving about a 1/4" edge past the other side of the zipper, as shown with the purple arrow in the picture above. Pin in place and sew along previous stitch line. Don't stress about the size of the flap..as long as it covers the zipper and you think it looks good, then it's fine. Fold "flap" over and pin in place exposing zipper. Sew other side of zipper to the 12" x 15" piece of fabric, right sides together. To give you a perspective..the pin indicated by the left arrow is holding the "flap" down. Be sure to line up your fabric edge with your zipper edge (as indicated by the other arrow) and be sure that the edges your 6.5" piece of fabric lines up with the edges your 12" piece of fabric. When you are finished, you should have a rectangle with a zipper in the middle. Trim excess fabric off the end of the 12" piece so that your pillow cover backing is 15" square....you may ask..."why do I need to trim my fabric? why didn't we cut it right the first time"?..I like to err on the side of caution... it allows me some wiggle room when fiddling with the zipper flap. Pin cover backing to cover front. Sew using a 1/2" sew allowance. Finish edges and trim corners. Be sure to leave the zipper OPEN before you sew your cover shut as indicated in the picture above. The zipper allows you to turn your cover right side out after you sew all four sides shut. Your Done!

My friends, I will give you the step by step instructions for making a plush crochet bunny the Elya. The finished size of the crochet bunny is 24 cm, excluding...

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I want to give a shout out to everyone that has enjoyed my “How To Make The Best Dress Ever” tutorial. Thank you for your thoughtful comments and suggestions on how to make it even better! To date nearly 30,000 people have dropped in to take a look at it. That is pretty awesome! “How To Make The Best T-Shirt Dress Ever” is my newest tutorial. T-shirt dresses are so easy to make that even a person with very little experience can sew a cute dress. If you already know how to sew you might want to make several. So without further ado let’s get started! First you need to gather up your materials. One t-shirt ½ to 1 yd of fabric depending on the size Thread and sewing supplies, scissors, pins, tape measure Have you ever noticed that little girls, particularly when they are young, have protruding tummies? It is for that reason I cut the lower portion of the t-shirt off so that the fabric falls loosely from above the tummy. Cutting the tee will make the t-shirt dress look more like a dress and less like a t-shirt with a skirt sewn on the bottom of it. I know you hate to cut off a perfectly good t-shirt but it will be worth it and you will be able to use the bottom of the tee for a headband or braided bracelet. Trust me on this one. We’re going to start by making a well constructed dress. After we finish it up you can embellish it anyway that you like. Okay enough chit-chat from me let's move on. I’m using a solid navy blue sleeveless top I bought on sale at the end of summer last year. It is 100% cotton. For the skirt choose a 100% cotton fabric. Do not use solid white or pastels or sheer fabrics like voile or gauze that you can see thru. Just to make sure that you’ve chosen a good dress fabric slip your hand in between the layers to be certain you can't see your hand. If you aren't sure you should probably leave it on the shelf and choose something else. I think I can safely say that all little girls like bright colors and playful prints. Ready? Let’s start off by cutting part of the body of the t-shirt off. Turn the t-shirt inside out and measure down from the top of the arm opening 3” on both side and mark with a pin. Your top should look like this. One of the things that really bugs me about t-shirt dresses is how the t-shirt stretches when the skirt is attached. Here’s a little trick to eliminate the problem. Cut two 1” strips of light weight iron-on Pelon interfacing. Lay one of the strip of the Pelon across the shirt right above the pins that you used to mark where you are going to cut. Now flip the t-shirt over and do it again on that side. This is the scary part...cut all the way across the t-shirt along the bottom edge of the white strip you just ironed on. You're going to feel like you cut it too short but it won't be. Does it look like this? Good job! Trim the ends of the interfacing if needed and sew along the side seams and reinforce with a zig-zag stitch. Put your bodice to the side while we work on the skirt. All sizes use the full width of the fabric…selvage to selvage. By using the selvages it will keep the seam from raveling. Make sure if you have a printed selvage like mine that the seam is deep enough to hide it. On this fabric ½” should be deep enough. You want to sew just over far enough that the white edges are hidden. Here we go...sew top to bottom. Don't worry about the length of your fabric we are going to hem it later. After you’ve sewn in the side seam press it open so that it lays flat. In this tutorial you are going to put the seam on the side so that the front and back of the dress appear seamless. Years ago we might have put the seam down the back so that it could button or a zipper sewn in but not today. The skirt will appear to be virtually seamless with the seam on the side under the arm. I promise you will be thrilled with the results when you finish. So let's lay the seamed skirt flat on the table. Place a pin on the side opposite the seam to mark the other half of the dress. Then two other pins go in the middle of the front and back. I measured with a tape but you can fold it in half if that is easier. Basically you want to mark both sides and the center front and the center back. The dress is now marked on both sides and center back and front. Like this. Now the magic begins. Lay the dress on the table with the pins and raw edges at the top. Starting at the center back or center front (it doesn’t matter) start putting in pleats. No measuring necessary. Start in the center and pinch pleat from the center toward the side seam, like this. All of the pleats move away from the center. This is one half of my front. My pleats are about 1 to 1 ½” wide and a ½” deep. Go ahead and pleat all around the top starting in the center and pleating toward the side seam. You be able to put in 3 or 4 and the 4th one might be a little skimpy but that's okay keep going. This is sort of an aerial view of the pleats. When you are finished pleating it will look like this. Congratulations you just finished the most difficult part of the dress! Why pleats rather than gathering you might wonder. Pleats are faster to put in and lay flatter for shipping, which is a good thing when you are packing hundreds of dresses. Sew all the way around pressing the pleats down as you sew over them. If you have a serger use it and if you don’t you can zig zag the seam like I did in this photo. Mine isn't pretty...but it's secure and won't ravel. Remember that little piece of stabilizer that we ironed in at the beginning of this tutorial? This is going to keep your knit shirt top from stretching when you sew around. Pretty awesome! Clip all the threads and turn the dress right side out. On the outside of the dress on the knit top stitch about 1/4" to 3/8” all the way around. Start at the side seam and go all the way around. Now all that is left is the hem and you’re finished! My t-shirt is a size 2-3. So using the pillowcase dress length chart below measure down the front from the center of the arm opening to the hem. I want my finished dress length to be 20” so I am going to cut the bottom of the dress off at 21” and that will give me 1” for a hem. Size/Years old Finished Dress Length Infant 14-16” 1-2 years 17-19” 3-4 years 20-22” 5-6 years 23-25” 7-8 years 26-28” 9-10 29-30” 11 31-33” 12-14 34-35” I cut the excess off with my rotary cutter or scissors. Set the scrap to the side. When I learned to sew years ago I was taught to put in a generous hem so that it could be let down as a child grew. Today sewers are using a new method, one that I admit I resisted in the beginning….but no longer. Let’s hem the dress using the Easy Peasy method. Put that tape measure or ruler to the side you won't need it. Fold up ½” all the way around the hem pressing as you go. I don’t measure I just fold and press and you can do it too. After you get all the way around do it again, this second fold will be really easy. Press as you go. When you finish pressing your hem stitch as close as you can to the fold. That's it you’ve finished your t-shirt dress! Slip your dress on a little hanger and put it up so you can admire your work, and have a cup of tea. I am so proud of YOU! Feeling confidant? Want to put a little polish on the cute little dress? Let's use that piece of fabric that you cut off the bottom and make some ties for the back. Cut it in half. You can make a long tube and turn it inside out OR you can fold and steam ¼ inch on the sides and one end. Fold it in half matching the long sides and one end. Edge stitch the end and the length of the tie. Sew as close to the edge as you can catching all the layers. You might want to pin it OR live dangerously like I do and match it as you sew along. Make a second tie – fold, press and sew. At the underarm of the t-shirt side seam pin one of the ties. The ties will be toward the front which will seem wrong but it’s fine. It is hard to describe so look at the photo below and attach one of the ties. Now fold the tie back on itself so that the ties are facing the back of the dress and tack it down with machine stitching about ½” from the side seam. You did it! Great job! If you would like to make a dress for a little girl who needs one I invite you to click on the little Dress A Girl button at the top right of this tutorial and learn how you can or go to www.DressAGirlAroundTheWorld.com Also with regard to this t-shirt dress pattern...some mission groups prefer pillowcase dresses as they are easier to pack and take up less space. If you have questions about this contact your Ambassador. If you don't know who your ambassador is please go to www.DressAGirlAroundTheWorld.com to find a list of names.

The Russian Join is one of the absolute best methods to join yarn due to it's secure hold and invisible finish. And it's easy to do!

Binding A Hooked Rug, Traditional Rug Hooking, Wool Rug Hooking, How To/Tutorial, Binding, Yarn Finished Edge, Cotton Cording/ Rope, Wool Yarn, Whipped Edge, Rose Clay, Three Sheep Studio

Explore Your Crochet's free patterns blog and discover inspiring ideas to ignite your creativity. Read our post, 'Tiny Octopus Free Crochet Patterns'.

This Sea Nettle inspired Jellyfish Free Crochet Pattern hits the mark between adorable AND realistic. Get the free crochet pattern here!

I've never made a quilt before, but thought I would give it a try. I will get right to the point. It gets on my nerves when I go to read a blog post for a recipe or crochet pattern and there is so much babbling before getting to the point. I never read through it on other blogs, so I won't do it here! :) My son loves to play the video game, Minecraft. This is what a Creeper looks like in the game. My supplies. You'll see how I like bargains. Rotary cutter, acrylic guide/ruler, cutting mat (borrowed from my mom) Quilt batting, 50% off at Joann's Twin size black flat sheet, $4.97 at Walmart 1 1/3 yard black fabric, used a 50% off coupon at Joann's Two 5-pack fabric quarter bundles and 3 single fabric quarters (total of 13), all 50% off at Joann's. 3 spools thread (I actually only used one of the green spools) I also used a 15% off total fabric purchase coupon (And bought several other skeins of yarn on sale at Joann's, but that's another blog post, lol!) Ok, so I'm happy with how much money I have in the project, in case I mess it up! ;) First, I ironed all fabric pieces to remove wrinkles. The fabric quarters come 18"x21" and I cut each one into (4) 9" squares (with a strip left over of course). I needed 50 green squares so I had 2 extras for "just in case". I took 10 of those green squares and cut them in half down the middle. You'll see why in a minute. I cut the 1 1/3 yard of black fabric into (20) 9" squares. Using the rotary cutter made the cutting SO much easier than trying to cut straight lines with scissors! I made sure every side was straight, and also cut off the selvage edges. I designed my pattern using a spreadsheet on the computer. I had 7 different shades of green fabric and after writing down how many squares I had of each color, I numbered the squares on the design so that no two squares of the same shade were touching side by side. Because of the width of the twin sheet for the back of the quilt, I couldn't get a full 9" square on each side of the Creeper face, so that's why I cut 10 of the squares in half. It gave me (20) 4 1/2" x 9" rectangles for the sides. I numbered my stacks according to where they will go on the design and pulled them from the stacks as I needed them. I started with the top row and stitched them together side by side using 1/4" seam allowance. Once I had two rows done, I stitched those to each other. I continued from top to bottom until done with the quilt top. Everything lined up pretty good! Thank goodness for the ping pong table, lol! (Otherwise I would use a table or the floor.) First I laid out the twin flat sheet, then the quilt batting. Just a tip: If I had it to do over, I would tape down the sheet in a few places to help avoid wrinkles. I do have a few little puckers here and there after stitching. I tried to center everything on the sheet to allow at least 1 1/2" all around the sheet for binding. Lay the top over the quilt batting. Another tip: I would get better quilt batting next time. I have since read online that all-cotton batting is better recommended. The stuff I used has to be stitched or tied every 5 inches and sometimes doesn't hold up well in the laundry. We'll see. I put a safety pin in every square to hold the layers together. Close up view of safety pin placement. I alternated which side of the square they were on. I machine stitched around the edge of each black square. This is called sewing "in the ditch". You pull the squares tight and can see the "ditch" in between the squares. If you stay in the ditch, this row of stitching will be nearly invisible on top. Then I also sewed an X across each black square. I didn't mark it out ahead of time. I simply "eye-balled" it. Yeah, I'm a rebel like that. ;) It was not easy making sure the weight of the quilt was always evenly distributed as I was sewing, especially while sewing in the center of the quilt and trying to bunch it up to get through the space in my machine! Tip: I turned at the corners and sewed continuously as much as possible. Each time you're about to begin a lot of sewing, make sure there is plenty of thread on the spool AND the bobbin! Ok, the black squares are done. Another view of the black squares. I see in this pic, I hadn't yet sewed in the ditch horizontally across the center of the big black square. Can you tell? From this point on, I didn't take any pictures. I switched to green thread on top, and black thread in the bobbin. I then sewed "in the ditch" around every green square. After that, it was ok to remove all of the safety pins. Next, using black cotton yarn and a yarn needle, I tied the center of each green square. Be sure to poke down through all 3 layers and back up very close to where you went down. I left both yarn ends about 3" long and tied them in double knots. Using scissors, I trimmed the quilt batting around the edge to be even with the quilt top. Using the rotary cutter, ruler guide, and cutting mat, I trimmed the black sheet to 1 1/2" bigger than the quilt top on all sides. I may go back and trim them a little shorter. To create the binding: Using my iron, I folded the black sides over to meet the edge of the quilt top, then folded over again coming up over the quilt top. Then I stitched around the edge through all layers. It was a lot of work! I certainly won't be entering any quilt shows with it as there are a lot of little puckers here and there, but my son is very proud of it! (And so am I.)

Learn how to crochet this simple and beautiful rail road double crochet stitch. This stitch is perfect for all kinds of projects. Use it to create coasters, washcloths, hot pads, face cloths and much more…

Invisible finish or in other words Invisible fasten off is a crochet technique to join stitches together and fasten off the yarn usually when crocheting in round. Traditional method to end the round is to join last stitch of the round with top of first stitch using slip stitch. Then to fasten off you cut the yarn,...

...rd, 4s rd and 2 rd squares. Note to self: When making granny squares, always turn after each rd. The benefits are that you don’t get tilting of the square, which I am prone to and both sides of the blanket look the same, so no right or wrong side. For this blanket I worked first 2 rds right side facing and then turned after each rd so that the squares ended with right...

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Chuẩn bị organize gnome amigurumi pattern

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ALASKA do chusty na chustę TRÓJKĄTNĄ . Wzór jest w postaci diagramu/wykresu. Nie posiada wersji opisowej. Aby móc to zrobić, wystarczy skorzystać z oznaczeń szydełkowych. Oznaczenia oraz informacje ogólne są przetłumaczone na język angielski. Ważne jest, aby schemat był jasny i prosty do odczytania. Wzór jest powtarzalny. Można z nim złożyć dowolną wielkość chusty. Minimalna długość motka na wykonanie chusty o rozpiętości 180-190 cm do 1500-1650m. Milego dzirgania

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Explore Your Crochet's free patterns blog and discover inspiring ideas to ignite your creativity. Read our post, 'Book Rat Free Crochet Pattern'.

Re-sharing a popular pattern! It’s almost that time of year to start crocheting for the fall too. Enjoy! The free…

Step out in the cosiest, most stylish bomber you'll see this year! This pattern may be quick and easy to crochet but it is definitely going to grab attention when you're out and about. It's cropped, it's chunky, it's cosy and those balloon sleeves will make you feel like you own the room.SIZING: This is an oversized knit but measurements are given for 9 sizes from XS up to 5XL (62" chest). Shoulder to waist is approximately 50cm/20 inches. Ease around the bust is up to 10cm/4 inches. YOU WILL NEED: Super Bulky Yarn (size 6)  Size XS 74cm/29inch Chest Approx 650m/710ydsSize S 94cm/37inch Chest Approx 770m/845ydsSize M 104cm/40inch Chest Approx 840m/920ydsSize L 114cm/44inch Chest Approx 920m/1010ydsSize XL 124cm/48inch Chest Approx 990m/1085ydsSize 2XL 135cm/52inch Chest Approx1070m/1170ydsSize 3XL 145cm/56inch Chest Approx 1130m/1235ydsSize 4XL 155cm/60inch Chest Approx 1210m/1325ydsSize 5XL 165cm/64inch Chest Approx 1290m/1410yds Crochet hook (Size O/17)  GAUGE: 7 stitches x 6 rows = 10x10cm (4x4inches) in Half Double Crochet on 12mm hook.

If you’re familiar with my love for no-sew amigurumi patterns, you’ll be happy to join me in exploring the newest addition to the Sky Amigurumi Collection: the charming No-sew Amigurumi Sun! I am so excited to present this sunny creation that’s not only simple but also incredibly fast to crochet. Before you know it, you’ll …