If you do not read any further, the most important tip for scroll sawing accurately for Intarsia is CHANGE YOUR BLADES OFTEN.
If the thought crosses your mind "is the blade getting dull, should I change it?" you should change it. Perhaps subconsciously you realize you are pushing too hard. The cost of the blade is not worth the frustration not to mention if you have to scrap some expensive wood.

Tension: Use this link to hear that high "C" note. Ready to pluck your scroll saw blade? Listen to the sounds of scroll saw blade from too loose, just right, way too tight. It's very helpful to learn the sound of a properly tensioned scroll saw blade. Music for scrollers!
Sawing: Make sure your blade is cutting square. Check the table/blade to make sure it is square. Next make a test cut, cut a curve then check it with a square. The curve makes it easier to see any light between the square and the cut part.

Cut the pieces about the size of your hand, this will make it much easier to handle than one large board. After cutting the hand size pieces be sure to turn them over to remove any tear out with sandpaper. The object is to keep the parts as flat as possible to ensure a square cut.
After all the parts have been laid out it is time to start sawing. If you used the same board (color) to layout many parts, start by rough cutting them into smaller more manageable sections.




Start cutting the easiest parts first, like the outside edges. This lets you get into the swing of things. Cut some of the outside edges; parts that do not have another part next to it. I like to mark all exterior parts with a highlighter. While sawing, stop often after making a cut and remove any tear-out on the bottom side. While you're at it check your cuts with a square.

Plan your cuts: Try to make your cuts so the last cut will “drop” the part off the larger block.
Note the extra part added to the left of the eye. The last cut is a short smooth line. Drill any holes before you start sawing, like the hole for the eye.

Blade Selection: I like the Platinum Plus, Platinum, and the Pegas blades for hardwoods and the Gold blades for softwoods.
Use a #5 blade for most sawing. If you have more intricate cuts try a #3. If your wood is very hard move up to a #7 or #9 (also try applying clear packing tape on the wood).
We mainly use the blades with reverse teeth which have around 6 teeth that cut on the “up stroke.” In most cases, that will help decrease the “tear out” on the bottom side of the part.
After cutting all the exterior lines, use a smaller blade like a #2/0 to a #1 to cut the interior lines (between parts 11 and 10 in the illustration) You lose less wood with the smaller blades.

Where to Put the Blade?
When cutting a part it is best to put the center of the blade in the center of the layout line, thus removing all of the line. With more experience the goal is to leave half of the pattern line around the parts. If you are using a larger blade you will need to move the blade a little more to the outside of the line.

Hand Placement: While scrolling, your hands are in control of the part. The blade is in control of the sawing. You will find that by positioning and repositioning your hands as the need arises you will be in control of your wood. Always remember to have at least one hand holding the wood down firmly on the table at all times.
Your hands will be in motion, always setting up for the next curve or turn on your pattern. Think ahead and plan your cuts.
Posture: Sit square in front of the saw making sure you are sitting at an appropriate height, so you can look down at the entire part you are cutting.
If you sit too low and are looking across the part it makes it harder to see what's coming up.
Sometimes you may find you're turning your body to allow movement of the wood, stop and reposition yourself so you are sitting straight in front of the blade.
Breath: Remember to keep breathing (I know that sounds silly). Sometimes when you cut an intricate part you tense up and hold your breath. This can make it even harder to cut smoothly. Make sure you are comfortable and take breaks as needed.
Speed: The speed (strokes per minute) we use varies from time to time depending on the material that is being cut. The main thing to remember is “control”. Intarsia requires accurate cutting, so you might want to experiment with your speed so you can get the best control. We found running the saw about 80% of the speed range on a variable speed saw works great.
Feed Rate: If you push the wood into the blade you will get a rougher cut than if you slow down and let the blade cut the wood. If you push too hard it can make your cause parts to be "out of square".

Cutting Corners: There are different ways to cut a sharp corner (or point) it will take two cuts. You cannot quickly turn the wood, even with a small blade, to cut a sharp corner. Cut to the corner, then back up the wood, start cutting again leaving a portion of the wood. Once you cut the waste wood away, turn the part around and make the second cut to remove the small portions of waste wood.

When you cut curves, keep your cut or feeding speed constant. If you continually stop and start as you make the turn, the finished edge will be choppy.

A magnifier really helps to see the lines. A foot switch is a good safety device. If a blade breaks or you need to stop you can easily lift your foot and stop the saw immediately.

Check for Fit: When all the parts have been cut, de-burr the back side of the part and print the number on the bottom (the same number you have on top).

Do not remove the paper from the top-side at this point. After you have numbered the back side of your project, assemble the parts and check to see how it fits. It’s a good idea to leave the paper on to see if a fitting problem could be from cutting outside of the pattern line.

If you can see the pattern lines then you will need to carefully trim the lines with a new #5 scroll saw blade. This takes some practice. If it is a free-form project practice on some of the outside edges.

DO NOT SAND TO THE PATTERN LINE it is almost impossible to sand the edge and keep it square.
How to Trim: I like to start by placing the part to the backside of the blade, this way you can get the part right next to the blade without the teeth cutting it. Then gradually bring the part around to the teeth, you'll start to hear the blade cutting. Practice barely shaving off the line.
When all the parts fit right you can remove the paper.
Remember to CHANGE YOUR BLADES OFTEN!

The kind and size of scroll saw blades can vary from one user to the next. What
works for me here in the studio may not work as well for you on your saw. I have a certain “feel” that I like when sawing and that can be different than what you like. A universal size 5 works for most intarsia projects. If I cut back into the same part to split it up into smaller sections that will go back together I will put in a very small blade size (2/0 or 0). One thing for sure (as far as I am concerned) there is not one blade that is good for everything. The blade that I use for our Intarsia on Western Red Cedar is not the blade that I use on plywood, nor is it what I would use for harder woods. I use different blades for different things. Then there is the “How Thick is the Wood”, is another factor to consider. All in all, there is only one way to figure this out. Get an assortment of blades and a stack of material and start sawing. Experience is the best way to figure this out. Below is a chart with different blades and sizes that are just a starting point. This is the actual blade combinations that we use when sawing, but the ones that you like best might differ from ours. Just remember to experiment to determine the blade that cuts best for you Another question is how long a blade will last? When the blade gets dull it will not cut well and you may find yourself pushing the wood too hard into the blade causing the cuts to be out of square. If the thought crosses your mind “I wonder if the blade is dull” it probably is. After you change the blade you will notice right away how much easier it is to cut your pieces. We can help you get started with blades but in the end you will have to decide for yourself. Below is a list of the blades we use. You can order the “OnLine” and Pegas blades on the Scroll Saw Blades Page, just click on the links.

If you do not read any further, the most important tip for scroll sawing accurately for Intarsia is CHANGE YOUR BLADES OFTEN.
If the thought crosses your mind "is the blade getting dull, should I change it?" you should change it. Perhaps subconsciously you realize you are pushing too hard. The cost of the blade is not worth the frustration not to mention if you have to scrap some expensive wood.

Tension: Use this link to hear that high "C" note. Ready to pluck your scroll saw blade? Listen to the sounds of scroll saw blade from too loose, just right, way too tight. It's very helpful to learn the sound of a properly tensioned scroll saw blade. Music for scrollers!
Sawing: Make sure your blade is cutting square. Check the table/blade to make sure it is square. Next make a test cut, cut a curve then check it with a square. The curve makes it easier to see any light between the square and the cut part.

Cut the pieces about the size of your hand, this will make it much easier to handle than one large board. After cutting the hand size pieces be sure to turn them over to remove any tear out with sandpaper. The object is to keep the parts as flat as possible to ensure a square cut.
After all the parts have been laid out it is time to start sawing. If you used the same board (color) to layout many parts, start by rough cutting them into smaller more manageable sections.




Start cutting the easiest parts first, like the outside edges. This lets you get into the swing of things. Cut some of the outside edges; parts that do not have another part next to it. I like to mark all exterior parts with a highlighter. While sawing, stop often after making a cut and remove any tear-out on the bottom side. While you're at it check your cuts with a square.

Plan your cuts: Try to make your cuts so the last cut will “drop” the part off the larger block.
Note the extra part added to the left of the eye. The last cut is a short smooth line. Drill any holes before you start sawing, like the hole for the eye.

Blade Selection: I like the Platinum Plus, Platinum, and the Pegas blades for hardwoods and the Gold blades for softwoods.
Use a #5 blade for most sawing. If you have more intricate cuts try a #3. If your wood is very hard move up to a #7 or #9 (also try applying clear packing tape on the wood).
We mainly use the blades with reverse teeth which have around 6 teeth that cut on the “up stroke.” In most cases, that will help decrease the “tear out” on the bottom side of the part.
After cutting all the exterior lines, use a smaller blade like a #2/0 to a #1 to cut the interior lines (between parts 11 and 10 in the illustration) You lose less wood with the smaller blades.

Where to Put the Blade?
When cutting a part it is best to put the center of the blade in the center of the layout line, thus removing all of the line. With more experience the goal is to leave half of the pattern line around the parts. If you are using a larger blade you will need to move the blade a little more to the outside of the line.

Hand Placement: While scrolling, your hands are in control of the part. The blade is in control of the sawing. You will find that by positioning and repositioning your hands as the need arises you will be in control of your wood. Always remember to have at least one hand holding the wood down firmly on the table at all times.
Your hands will be in motion, always setting up for the next curve or turn on your pattern. Think ahead and plan your cuts.
Posture: Sit square in front of the saw making sure you are sitting at an appropriate height, so you can look down at the entire part you are cutting.
If you sit too low and are looking across the part it makes it harder to see what's coming up.
Sometimes you may find you're turning your body to allow movement of the wood, stop and reposition yourself so you are sitting straight in front of the blade.
Breath: Remember to keep breathing (I know that sounds silly). Sometimes when you cut an intricate part you tense up and hold your breath. This can make it even harder to cut smoothly. Make sure you are comfortable and take breaks as needed.
Speed: The speed (strokes per minute) we use varies from time to time depending on the material that is being cut. The main thing to remember is “control”. Intarsia requires accurate cutting, so you might want to experiment with your speed so you can get the best control. We found running the saw about 80% of the speed range on a variable speed saw works great.
Feed Rate: If you push the wood into the blade you will get a rougher cut than if you slow down and let the blade cut the wood. If you push too hard it can make your cause parts to be "out of square".

Cutting Corners: There are different ways to cut a sharp corner (or point) it will take two cuts. You cannot quickly turn the wood, even with a small blade, to cut a sharp corner. Cut to the corner, then back up the wood, start cutting again leaving a portion of the wood. Once you cut the waste wood away, turn the part around and make the second cut to remove the small portions of waste wood.

When you cut curves, keep your cut or feeding speed constant. If you continually stop and start as you make the turn, the finished edge will be choppy.

A magnifier really helps to see the lines. A foot switch is a good safety device. If a blade breaks or you need to stop you can easily lift your foot and stop the saw immediately.

Check for Fit: When all the parts have been cut, de-burr the back side of the part and print the number on the bottom (the same number you have on top).

Do not remove the paper from the top-side at this point. After you have numbered the back side of your project, assemble the parts and check to see how it fits. It’s a good idea to leave the paper on to see if a fitting problem could be from cutting outside of the pattern line.

If you can see the pattern lines then you will need to carefully trim the lines with a new #5 scroll saw blade. This takes some practice. If it is a free-form project practice on some of the outside edges.

DO NOT SAND TO THE PATTERN LINE it is almost impossible to sand the edge and keep it square.
How to Trim: I like to start by placing the part to the backside of the blade, this way you can get the part right next to the blade without the teeth cutting it. Then gradually bring the part around to the teeth, you'll start to hear the blade cutting. Practice barely shaving off the line.
When all the parts fit right you can remove the paper.
Remember to CHANGE YOUR BLADES OFTEN!

The kind and size of scroll saw blades can vary from one user to the next. What
works for me here in the studio may not work as well for you on your saw. I have a certain “feel” that I like when sawing and that can be different than what you like. A universal size 5 works for most intarsia projects. If I cut back into the same part to split it up into smaller sections that will go back together I will put in a very small blade size (2/0 or 0). One thing for sure (as far as I am concerned) there is not one blade that is good for everything. The blade that I use for our Intarsia on Western Red Cedar is not the blade that I use on plywood, nor is it what I would use for harder woods. I use different blades for different things. Then there is the “How Thick is the Wood”, is another factor to consider. All in all, there is only one way to figure this out. Get an assortment of blades and a stack of material and start sawing. Experience is the best way to figure this out. Below is a chart with different blades and sizes that are just a starting point. This is the actual blade combinations that we use when sawing, but the ones that you like best might differ from ours. Just remember to experiment to determine the blade that cuts best for you Another question is how long a blade will last? When the blade gets dull it will not cut well and you may find yourself pushing the wood too hard into the blade causing the cuts to be out of square. If the thought crosses your mind “I wonder if the blade is dull” it probably is. After you change the blade you will notice right away how much easier it is to cut your pieces. We can help you get started with blades but in the end you will have to decide for yourself. Below is a list of the blades we use. You can order the “OnLine” and Pegas blades on the Scroll Saw Blades Page, just click on the links.

Over the years we have worked hard to perfect the finishing process we recommend. The purpose of this article is to share what we have learned thru trial and error. We found it best to apply the finish before the parts are glued down.

Surface Preparation:
All surfaces must be dry and as dust free as possible. We use an air compressor to blow each piece off before applying the first coat of gel. Application: Stir the gel thoroughly before and during application. Do not apply in direct sunlight or areas of extreme air movement. A good tip to keep the gel from drying out while you coat the pieces is to open the can, turn the lid upside down and put a small amount on the inside of the lid. Place the lid on top of the can and refill as needed. This keeps air from drying the surface of the exposed gel. Because the gel is very thick and it soaks into the wood it works best to apply the gel one piece at a time. We use a 1” foam brush to apply the gel and Bounty paper towels to wipe each piece clean.

First Coat:
Apply the gel to the sides and top, leaving the bottom free of finish so the glue will hold the pieces firmly to the backing. Applying the gel to the sides and top will help seal the wood, protecting your piece from the ever-changing climates. If the gel is left on too long before wiping off, drying time increases and the sides could remain tacky. It is VERY important to use a clean paper towel (or a clean part of the towel) for each piece. This eliminates “cross contamination” which may increase the chances of a tacky surface which will extend the amount of time needed to dry. Also continued use of the same paper towel will cause the towel to break down and leave more lint.

Second & Third Coats:
Applied to the top surface and outside edges only. Apply gel to surface, wipe quickly with a clean cloth. Buff lightly with another clean cloth, working in the direction of the grain until the surface is smooth and your paper towel comes away with no residue. Three coats are what we recommend; however, additional coats will enhance and provide greater protection. Sanding between coats is not necessary as long as you buff each piece until no residue is left on cloth. Occasionally the gel raises the grain on aspen. We use a 4/0 steel wool between the second and final third coat.

Drying Time:
Drying time will be affected by temperature, humidity and thickness of the gel. Most oil-based varnishes dry upon exposure to air, which is also known as “oxidative cure.” We use a small oscillating fan set on low about 4 feet away from drying project pieces. This is especially helpful in areas with higher humidity levels. We also have a dehumidifier running at all times. It is the oxygen molecules in the air that interact with the gel, creating a chemical reaction that causes the gel to dry. We recommend at least 8-10 hours between the first and second coats. Less time (6-8 hours) is needed between the 2nd and 3rd coats.

If you do not read any further, the most important tip for scroll sawing accurately for Intarsia is CHANGE YOUR BLADES OFTEN.
If the thought crosses your mind "is the blade getting dull, should I change it?" you should change it. Perhaps subconsciously you realize you are pushing too hard. The cost of the blade is not worth the frustration not to mention if you have to scrap some expensive wood.

Tension: Use this link to hear that high "C" note. Ready to pluck your scroll saw blade? Listen to the sounds of scroll saw blade from too loose, just right, way too tight. It's very helpful to learn the sound of a properly tensioned scroll saw blade. Music for scrollers!
Sawing: Make sure your blade is cutting square. Check the table/blade to make sure it is square. Next make a test cut, cut a curve then check it with a square. The curve makes it easier to see any light between the square and the cut part.

Cut the pieces about the size of your hand, this will make it much easier to handle than one large board. After cutting the hand size pieces be sure to turn them over to remove any tear out with sandpaper. The object is to keep the parts as flat as possible to ensure a square cut.
After all the parts have been laid out it is time to start sawing. If you used the same board (color) to layout many parts, start by rough cutting them into smaller more manageable sections.




Start cutting the easiest parts first, like the outside edges. This lets you get into the swing of things. Cut some of the outside edges; parts that do not have another part next to it. I like to mark all exterior parts with a highlighter. While sawing, stop often after making a cut and remove any tear-out on the bottom side. While you're at it check your cuts with a square.

Plan your cuts: Try to make your cuts so the last cut will “drop” the part off the larger block.
Note the extra part added to the left of the eye. The last cut is a short smooth line. Drill any holes before you start sawing, like the hole for the eye.

Blade Selection: I like the Platinum Plus, Platinum, and the Pegas blades for hardwoods and the Gold blades for softwoods.
Use a #5 blade for most sawing. If you have more intricate cuts try a #3. If your wood is very hard move up to a #7 or #9 (also try applying clear packing tape on the wood).
We mainly use the blades with reverse teeth which have around 6 teeth that cut on the “up stroke.” In most cases, that will help decrease the “tear out” on the bottom side of the part.
After cutting all the exterior lines, use a smaller blade like a #2/0 to a #1 to cut the interior lines (between parts 11 and 10 in the illustration) You lose less wood with the smaller blades.

Where to Put the Blade?
When cutting a part it is best to put the center of the blade in the center of the layout line, thus removing all of the line. With more experience the goal is to leave half of the pattern line around the parts. If you are using a larger blade you will need to move the blade a little more to the outside of the line.

Hand Placement: While scrolling, your hands are in control of the part. The blade is in control of the sawing. You will find that by positioning and repositioning your hands as the need arises you will be in control of your wood. Always remember to have at least one hand holding the wood down firmly on the table at all times.
Your hands will be in motion, always setting up for the next curve or turn on your pattern. Think ahead and plan your cuts.
Posture: Sit square in front of the saw making sure you are sitting at an appropriate height, so you can look down at the entire part you are cutting.
If you sit too low and are looking across the part it makes it harder to see what's coming up.
Sometimes you may find you're turning your body to allow movement of the wood, stop and reposition yourself so you are sitting straight in front of the blade.
Breath: Remember to keep breathing (I know that sounds silly). Sometimes when you cut an intricate part you tense up and hold your breath. This can make it even harder to cut smoothly. Make sure you are comfortable and take breaks as needed.
Speed: The speed (strokes per minute) we use varies from time to time depending on the material that is being cut. The main thing to remember is “control”. Intarsia requires accurate cutting, so you might want to experiment with your speed so you can get the best control. We found running the saw about 80% of the speed range on a variable speed saw works great.
Feed Rate: If you push the wood into the blade you will get a rougher cut than if you slow down and let the blade cut the wood. If you push too hard it can make your cause parts to be "out of square".

Cutting Corners: There are different ways to cut a sharp corner (or point) it will take two cuts. You cannot quickly turn the wood, even with a small blade, to cut a sharp corner. Cut to the corner, then back up the wood, start cutting again leaving a portion of the wood. Once you cut the waste wood away, turn the part around and make the second cut to remove the small portions of waste wood.

When you cut curves, keep your cut or feeding speed constant. If you continually stop and start as you make the turn, the finished edge will be choppy.

A magnifier really helps to see the lines. A foot switch is a good safety device. If a blade breaks or you need to stop you can easily lift your foot and stop the saw immediately.

Check for Fit: When all the parts have been cut, de-burr the back side of the part and print the number on the bottom (the same number you have on top).

Do not remove the paper from the top-side at this point. After you have numbered the back side of your project, assemble the parts and check to see how it fits. It’s a good idea to leave the paper on to see if a fitting problem could be from cutting outside of the pattern line.

If you can see the pattern lines then you will need to carefully trim the lines with a new #5 scroll saw blade. This takes some practice. If it is a free-form project practice on some of the outside edges.

DO NOT SAND TO THE PATTERN LINE it is almost impossible to sand the edge and keep it square.
How to Trim: I like to start by placing the part to the backside of the blade, this way you can get the part right next to the blade without the teeth cutting it. Then gradually bring the part around to the teeth, you'll start to hear the blade cutting. Practice barely shaving off the line.
When all the parts fit right you can remove the paper.
Remember to CHANGE YOUR BLADES OFTEN!

The kind and size of scroll saw blades can vary from one user to the next. What
works for me here in the studio may not work as well for you on your saw. I have a certain “feel” that I like when sawing and that can be different than what you like. A universal size 5 works for most intarsia projects. If I cut back into the same part to split it up into smaller sections that will go back together I will put in a very small blade size (2/0 or 0). One thing for sure (as far as I am concerned) there is not one blade that is good for everything. The blade that I use for our Intarsia on Western Red Cedar is not the blade that I use on plywood, nor is it what I would use for harder woods. I use different blades for different things. Then there is the “How Thick is the Wood”, is another factor to consider. All in all, there is only one way to figure this out. Get an assortment of blades and a stack of material and start sawing. Experience is the best way to figure this out. Below is a chart with different blades and sizes that are just a starting point. This is the actual blade combinations that we use when sawing, but the ones that you like best might differ from ours. Just remember to experiment to determine the blade that cuts best for you Another question is how long a blade will last? When the blade gets dull it will not cut well and you may find yourself pushing the wood too hard into the blade causing the cuts to be out of square. If the thought crosses your mind “I wonder if the blade is dull” it probably is. After you change the blade you will notice right away how much easier it is to cut your pieces. We can help you get started with blades but in the end you will have to decide for yourself. Below is a list of the blades we use. You can order the “OnLine” and Pegas blades on the Scroll Saw Blades Page, just click on the links.

If you do not read any further, the most important tip for scroll sawing accurately for Intarsia is CHANGE YOUR BLADES OFTEN.
If the thought crosses your mind "is the blade getting dull, should I change it?" you should change it. Perhaps subconsciously you realize you are pushing too hard. The cost of the blade is not worth the frustration not to mention if you have to scrap some expensive wood.

Tension: Use this link to hear that high "C" note. Ready to pluck your scroll saw blade? Listen to the sounds of scroll saw blade from too loose, just right, way too tight. It's very helpful to learn the sound of a properly tensioned scroll saw blade. Music for scrollers!
Sawing: Make sure your blade is cutting square. Check the table/blade to make sure it is square. Next make a test cut, cut a curve then check it with a square. The curve makes it easier to see any light between the square and the cut part.

Cut the pieces about the size of your hand, this will make it much easier to handle than one large board. After cutting the hand size pieces be sure to turn them over to remove any tear out with sandpaper. The object is to keep the parts as flat as possible to ensure a square cut.
After all the parts have been laid out it is time to start sawing. If you used the same board (color) to layout many parts, start by rough cutting them into smaller more manageable sections.




Start cutting the easiest parts first, like the outside edges. This lets you get into the swing of things. Cut some of the outside edges; parts that do not have another part next to it. I like to mark all exterior parts with a highlighter. While sawing, stop often after making a cut and remove any tear-out on the bottom side. While you're at it check your cuts with a square.

Plan your cuts: Try to make your cuts so the last cut will “drop” the part off the larger block.
Note the extra part added to the left of the eye. The last cut is a short smooth line. Drill any holes before you start sawing, like the hole for the eye.

Blade Selection: I like the Platinum Plus, Platinum, and the Pegas blades for hardwoods and the Gold blades for softwoods.
Use a #5 blade for most sawing. If you have more intricate cuts try a #3. If your wood is very hard move up to a #7 or #9 (also try applying clear packing tape on the wood).
We mainly use the blades with reverse teeth which have around 6 teeth that cut on the “up stroke.” In most cases, that will help decrease the “tear out” on the bottom side of the part.
After cutting all the exterior lines, use a smaller blade like a #2/0 to a #1 to cut the interior lines (between parts 11 and 10 in the illustration) You lose less wood with the smaller blades.

Where to Put the Blade?
When cutting a part it is best to put the center of the blade in the center of the layout line, thus removing all of the line. With more experience the goal is to leave half of the pattern line around the parts. If you are using a larger blade you will need to move the blade a little more to the outside of the line.

Hand Placement: While scrolling, your hands are in control of the part. The blade is in control of the sawing. You will find that by positioning and repositioning your hands as the need arises you will be in control of your wood. Always remember to have at least one hand holding the wood down firmly on the table at all times.
Your hands will be in motion, always setting up for the next curve or turn on your pattern. Think ahead and plan your cuts.
Posture: Sit square in front of the saw making sure you are sitting at an appropriate height, so you can look down at the entire part you are cutting.
If you sit too low and are looking across the part it makes it harder to see what's coming up.
Sometimes you may find you're turning your body to allow movement of the wood, stop and reposition yourself so you are sitting straight in front of the blade.
Breath: Remember to keep breathing (I know that sounds silly). Sometimes when you cut an intricate part you tense up and hold your breath. This can make it even harder to cut smoothly. Make sure you are comfortable and take breaks as needed.
Speed: The speed (strokes per minute) we use varies from time to time depending on the material that is being cut. The main thing to remember is “control”. Intarsia requires accurate cutting, so you might want to experiment with your speed so you can get the best control. We found running the saw about 80% of the speed range on a variable speed saw works great.
Feed Rate: If you push the wood into the blade you will get a rougher cut than if you slow down and let the blade cut the wood. If you push too hard it can make your cause parts to be "out of square".

Cutting Corners: There are different ways to cut a sharp corner (or point) it will take two cuts. You cannot quickly turn the wood, even with a small blade, to cut a sharp corner. Cut to the corner, then back up the wood, start cutting again leaving a portion of the wood. Once you cut the waste wood away, turn the part around and make the second cut to remove the small portions of waste wood.

When you cut curves, keep your cut or feeding speed constant. If you continually stop and start as you make the turn, the finished edge will be choppy.

A magnifier really helps to see the lines. A foot switch is a good safety device. If a blade breaks or you need to stop you can easily lift your foot and stop the saw immediately.

Check for Fit: When all the parts have been cut, de-burr the back side of the part and print the number on the bottom (the same number you have on top).

Do not remove the paper from the top-side at this point. After you have numbered the back side of your project, assemble the parts and check to see how it fits. It’s a good idea to leave the paper on to see if a fitting problem could be from cutting outside of the pattern line.

If you can see the pattern lines then you will need to carefully trim the lines with a new #5 scroll saw blade. This takes some practice. If it is a free-form project practice on some of the outside edges.

DO NOT SAND TO THE PATTERN LINE it is almost impossible to sand the edge and keep it square.
How to Trim: I like to start by placing the part to the backside of the blade, this way you can get the part right next to the blade without the teeth cutting it. Then gradually bring the part around to the teeth, you'll start to hear the blade cutting. Practice barely shaving off the line.
When all the parts fit right you can remove the paper.
Remember to CHANGE YOUR BLADES OFTEN!

The kind and size of scroll saw blades can vary from one user to the next. What
works for me here in the studio may not work as well for you on your saw. I have a certain “feel” that I like when sawing and that can be different than what you like. A universal size 5 works for most intarsia projects. If I cut back into the same part to split it up into smaller sections that will go back together I will put in a very small blade size (2/0 or 0). One thing for sure (as far as I am concerned) there is not one blade that is good for everything. The blade that I use for our Intarsia on Western Red Cedar is not the blade that I use on plywood, nor is it what I would use for harder woods. I use different blades for different things. Then there is the “How Thick is the Wood”, is another factor to consider. All in all, there is only one way to figure this out. Get an assortment of blades and a stack of material and start sawing. Experience is the best way to figure this out. Below is a chart with different blades and sizes that are just a starting point. This is the actual blade combinations that we use when sawing, but the ones that you like best might differ from ours. Just remember to experiment to determine the blade that cuts best for you Another question is how long a blade will last? When the blade gets dull it will not cut well and you may find yourself pushing the wood too hard into the blade causing the cuts to be out of square. If the thought crosses your mind “I wonder if the blade is dull” it probably is. After you change the blade you will notice right away how much easier it is to cut your pieces. We can help you get started with blades but in the end you will have to decide for yourself. Below is a list of the blades we use. You can order the “OnLine” and Pegas blades on the Scroll Saw Blades Page, just click on the links.

How to make a basketweave bowl out of a single piece of wood using nothing more than a scroll saw and glue.

Having a scroll saw is helpful if you’re looking to make some scroll saw patterns. Besides, scroll saw projects are some of the most woodworking projects that you can engage in. And in this post, we’re going to look at some of the best free scroll saw patterns that you could make with your scroll

How to make a basketweave bowl out of a single piece of wood using nothing more than a scroll saw and glue.

PDF DIY Free Scroll Saw Animal Puzzle Patterns Plans Download Free scroll saw animal puzzle patterns rustic storage building plans quilt holder wood Free scroll saw animal puzzle patterns wood craf…

If you do not read any further, the most important tip for scroll sawing accurately for Intarsia is CHANGE YOUR BLADES OFTEN.
If the thought crosses your mind "is the blade getting dull, should I change it?" you should change it. Perhaps subconsciously you realize you are pushing too hard. The cost of the blade is not worth the frustration not to mention if you have to scrap some expensive wood.

Tension: Use this link to hear that high "C" note. Ready to pluck your scroll saw blade? Listen to the sounds of scroll saw blade from too loose, just right, way too tight. It's very helpful to learn the sound of a properly tensioned scroll saw blade. Music for scrollers!
Sawing: Make sure your blade is cutting square. Check the table/blade to make sure it is square. Next make a test cut, cut a curve then check it with a square. The curve makes it easier to see any light between the square and the cut part.

Cut the pieces about the size of your hand, this will make it much easier to handle than one large board. After cutting the hand size pieces be sure to turn them over to remove any tear out with sandpaper. The object is to keep the parts as flat as possible to ensure a square cut.
After all the parts have been laid out it is time to start sawing. If you used the same board (color) to layout many parts, start by rough cutting them into smaller more manageable sections.




Start cutting the easiest parts first, like the outside edges. This lets you get into the swing of things. Cut some of the outside edges; parts that do not have another part next to it. I like to mark all exterior parts with a highlighter. While sawing, stop often after making a cut and remove any tear-out on the bottom side. While you're at it check your cuts with a square.

Plan your cuts: Try to make your cuts so the last cut will “drop” the part off the larger block.
Note the extra part added to the left of the eye. The last cut is a short smooth line. Drill any holes before you start sawing, like the hole for the eye.

Blade Selection: I like the Platinum Plus, Platinum, and the Pegas blades for hardwoods and the Gold blades for softwoods.
Use a #5 blade for most sawing. If you have more intricate cuts try a #3. If your wood is very hard move up to a #7 or #9 (also try applying clear packing tape on the wood).
We mainly use the blades with reverse teeth which have around 6 teeth that cut on the “up stroke.” In most cases, that will help decrease the “tear out” on the bottom side of the part.
After cutting all the exterior lines, use a smaller blade like a #2/0 to a #1 to cut the interior lines (between parts 11 and 10 in the illustration) You lose less wood with the smaller blades.

Where to Put the Blade?
When cutting a part it is best to put the center of the blade in the center of the layout line, thus removing all of the line. With more experience the goal is to leave half of the pattern line around the parts. If you are using a larger blade you will need to move the blade a little more to the outside of the line.

Hand Placement: While scrolling, your hands are in control of the part. The blade is in control of the sawing. You will find that by positioning and repositioning your hands as the need arises you will be in control of your wood. Always remember to have at least one hand holding the wood down firmly on the table at all times.
Your hands will be in motion, always setting up for the next curve or turn on your pattern. Think ahead and plan your cuts.
Posture: Sit square in front of the saw making sure you are sitting at an appropriate height, so you can look down at the entire part you are cutting.
If you sit too low and are looking across the part it makes it harder to see what's coming up.
Sometimes you may find you're turning your body to allow movement of the wood, stop and reposition yourself so you are sitting straight in front of the blade.
Breath: Remember to keep breathing (I know that sounds silly). Sometimes when you cut an intricate part you tense up and hold your breath. This can make it even harder to cut smoothly. Make sure you are comfortable and take breaks as needed.
Speed: The speed (strokes per minute) we use varies from time to time depending on the material that is being cut. The main thing to remember is “control”. Intarsia requires accurate cutting, so you might want to experiment with your speed so you can get the best control. We found running the saw about 80% of the speed range on a variable speed saw works great.
Feed Rate: If you push the wood into the blade you will get a rougher cut than if you slow down and let the blade cut the wood. If you push too hard it can make your cause parts to be "out of square".

Cutting Corners: There are different ways to cut a sharp corner (or point) it will take two cuts. You cannot quickly turn the wood, even with a small blade, to cut a sharp corner. Cut to the corner, then back up the wood, start cutting again leaving a portion of the wood. Once you cut the waste wood away, turn the part around and make the second cut to remove the small portions of waste wood.

When you cut curves, keep your cut or feeding speed constant. If you continually stop and start as you make the turn, the finished edge will be choppy.

A magnifier really helps to see the lines. A foot switch is a good safety device. If a blade breaks or you need to stop you can easily lift your foot and stop the saw immediately.

Check for Fit: When all the parts have been cut, de-burr the back side of the part and print the number on the bottom (the same number you have on top).

Do not remove the paper from the top-side at this point. After you have numbered the back side of your project, assemble the parts and check to see how it fits. It’s a good idea to leave the paper on to see if a fitting problem could be from cutting outside of the pattern line.

If you can see the pattern lines then you will need to carefully trim the lines with a new #5 scroll saw blade. This takes some practice. If it is a free-form project practice on some of the outside edges.

DO NOT SAND TO THE PATTERN LINE it is almost impossible to sand the edge and keep it square.
How to Trim: I like to start by placing the part to the backside of the blade, this way you can get the part right next to the blade without the teeth cutting it. Then gradually bring the part around to the teeth, you'll start to hear the blade cutting. Practice barely shaving off the line.
When all the parts fit right you can remove the paper.
Remember to CHANGE YOUR BLADES OFTEN!

The kind and size of scroll saw blades can vary from one user to the next. What
works for me here in the studio may not work as well for you on your saw. I have a certain “feel” that I like when sawing and that can be different than what you like. A universal size 5 works for most intarsia projects. If I cut back into the same part to split it up into smaller sections that will go back together I will put in a very small blade size (2/0 or 0). One thing for sure (as far as I am concerned) there is not one blade that is good for everything. The blade that I use for our Intarsia on Western Red Cedar is not the blade that I use on plywood, nor is it what I would use for harder woods. I use different blades for different things. Then there is the “How Thick is the Wood”, is another factor to consider. All in all, there is only one way to figure this out. Get an assortment of blades and a stack of material and start sawing. Experience is the best way to figure this out. Below is a chart with different blades and sizes that are just a starting point. This is the actual blade combinations that we use when sawing, but the ones that you like best might differ from ours. Just remember to experiment to determine the blade that cuts best for you Another question is how long a blade will last? When the blade gets dull it will not cut well and you may find yourself pushing the wood too hard into the blade causing the cuts to be out of square. If the thought crosses your mind “I wonder if the blade is dull” it probably is. After you change the blade you will notice right away how much easier it is to cut your pieces. We can help you get started with blades but in the end you will have to decide for yourself. Below is a list of the blades we use. You can order the “OnLine” and Pegas blades on the Scroll Saw Blades Page, just click on the links.

Intarsia artist Joanie VanDusart teaches you a helpful intrasia tip that will allow you to properly transfer a pattern to your woodworking pieces.

If you do not read any further, the most important tip for scroll sawing accurately for Intarsia is CHANGE YOUR BLADES OFTEN.
If the thought crosses your mind "is the blade getting dull, should I change it?" you should change it. Perhaps subconsciously you realize you are pushing too hard. The cost of the blade is not worth the frustration not to mention if you have to scrap some expensive wood.

Tension: Use this link to hear that high "C" note. Ready to pluck your scroll saw blade? Listen to the sounds of scroll saw blade from too loose, just right, way too tight. It's very helpful to learn the sound of a properly tensioned scroll saw blade. Music for scrollers!
Sawing: Make sure your blade is cutting square. Check the table/blade to make sure it is square. Next make a test cut, cut a curve then check it with a square. The curve makes it easier to see any light between the square and the cut part.

Cut the pieces about the size of your hand, this will make it much easier to handle than one large board. After cutting the hand size pieces be sure to turn them over to remove any tear out with sandpaper. The object is to keep the parts as flat as possible to ensure a square cut.
After all the parts have been laid out it is time to start sawing. If you used the same board (color) to layout many parts, start by rough cutting them into smaller more manageable sections.




Start cutting the easiest parts first, like the outside edges. This lets you get into the swing of things. Cut some of the outside edges; parts that do not have another part next to it. I like to mark all exterior parts with a highlighter. While sawing, stop often after making a cut and remove any tear-out on the bottom side. While you're at it check your cuts with a square.

Plan your cuts: Try to make your cuts so the last cut will “drop” the part off the larger block.
Note the extra part added to the left of the eye. The last cut is a short smooth line. Drill any holes before you start sawing, like the hole for the eye.

Blade Selection: I like the Platinum Plus, Platinum, and the Pegas blades for hardwoods and the Gold blades for softwoods.
Use a #5 blade for most sawing. If you have more intricate cuts try a #3. If your wood is very hard move up to a #7 or #9 (also try applying clear packing tape on the wood).
We mainly use the blades with reverse teeth which have around 6 teeth that cut on the “up stroke.” In most cases, that will help decrease the “tear out” on the bottom side of the part.
After cutting all the exterior lines, use a smaller blade like a #2/0 to a #1 to cut the interior lines (between parts 11 and 10 in the illustration) You lose less wood with the smaller blades.

Where to Put the Blade?
When cutting a part it is best to put the center of the blade in the center of the layout line, thus removing all of the line. With more experience the goal is to leave half of the pattern line around the parts. If you are using a larger blade you will need to move the blade a little more to the outside of the line.

Hand Placement: While scrolling, your hands are in control of the part. The blade is in control of the sawing. You will find that by positioning and repositioning your hands as the need arises you will be in control of your wood. Always remember to have at least one hand holding the wood down firmly on the table at all times.
Your hands will be in motion, always setting up for the next curve or turn on your pattern. Think ahead and plan your cuts.
Posture: Sit square in front of the saw making sure you are sitting at an appropriate height, so you can look down at the entire part you are cutting.
If you sit too low and are looking across the part it makes it harder to see what's coming up.
Sometimes you may find you're turning your body to allow movement of the wood, stop and reposition yourself so you are sitting straight in front of the blade.
Breath: Remember to keep breathing (I know that sounds silly). Sometimes when you cut an intricate part you tense up and hold your breath. This can make it even harder to cut smoothly. Make sure you are comfortable and take breaks as needed.
Speed: The speed (strokes per minute) we use varies from time to time depending on the material that is being cut. The main thing to remember is “control”. Intarsia requires accurate cutting, so you might want to experiment with your speed so you can get the best control. We found running the saw about 80% of the speed range on a variable speed saw works great.
Feed Rate: If you push the wood into the blade you will get a rougher cut than if you slow down and let the blade cut the wood. If you push too hard it can make your cause parts to be "out of square".

Cutting Corners: There are different ways to cut a sharp corner (or point) it will take two cuts. You cannot quickly turn the wood, even with a small blade, to cut a sharp corner. Cut to the corner, then back up the wood, start cutting again leaving a portion of the wood. Once you cut the waste wood away, turn the part around and make the second cut to remove the small portions of waste wood.

When you cut curves, keep your cut or feeding speed constant. If you continually stop and start as you make the turn, the finished edge will be choppy.

A magnifier really helps to see the lines. A foot switch is a good safety device. If a blade breaks or you need to stop you can easily lift your foot and stop the saw immediately.

Check for Fit: When all the parts have been cut, de-burr the back side of the part and print the number on the bottom (the same number you have on top).

Do not remove the paper from the top-side at this point. After you have numbered the back side of your project, assemble the parts and check to see how it fits. It’s a good idea to leave the paper on to see if a fitting problem could be from cutting outside of the pattern line.

If you can see the pattern lines then you will need to carefully trim the lines with a new #5 scroll saw blade. This takes some practice. If it is a free-form project practice on some of the outside edges.

DO NOT SAND TO THE PATTERN LINE it is almost impossible to sand the edge and keep it square.
How to Trim: I like to start by placing the part to the backside of the blade, this way you can get the part right next to the blade without the teeth cutting it. Then gradually bring the part around to the teeth, you'll start to hear the blade cutting. Practice barely shaving off the line.
When all the parts fit right you can remove the paper.
Remember to CHANGE YOUR BLADES OFTEN!

The kind and size of scroll saw blades can vary from one user to the next. What
works for me here in the studio may not work as well for you on your saw. I have a certain “feel” that I like when sawing and that can be different than what you like. A universal size 5 works for most intarsia projects. If I cut back into the same part to split it up into smaller sections that will go back together I will put in a very small blade size (2/0 or 0). One thing for sure (as far as I am concerned) there is not one blade that is good for everything. The blade that I use for our Intarsia on Western Red Cedar is not the blade that I use on plywood, nor is it what I would use for harder woods. I use different blades for different things. Then there is the “How Thick is the Wood”, is another factor to consider. All in all, there is only one way to figure this out. Get an assortment of blades and a stack of material and start sawing. Experience is the best way to figure this out. Below is a chart with different blades and sizes that are just a starting point. This is the actual blade combinations that we use when sawing, but the ones that you like best might differ from ours. Just remember to experiment to determine the blade that cuts best for you Another question is how long a blade will last? When the blade gets dull it will not cut well and you may find yourself pushing the wood too hard into the blade causing the cuts to be out of square. If the thought crosses your mind “I wonder if the blade is dull” it probably is. After you change the blade you will notice right away how much easier it is to cut your pieces. We can help you get started with blades but in the end you will have to decide for yourself. Below is a list of the blades we use. You can order the “OnLine” and Pegas blades on the Scroll Saw Blades Page, just click on the links.

Get inspired for warmer days with these 10 past and present Spring projects from Scroll Saw Woodworking & Crafts Magazine!

Carole Rothman introduces a new series with a spotlight on the scroll saw: Here’s what you need to know about buying, using and being safe with this tool.

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Light up your home or your yard with this DIY lantern project. See how to make a lantern with a scroll saw. Pick a lantern pattern and get creative.

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Carole Rothman introduces a new series with a spotlight on the scroll saw: Here’s what you need to know about buying, using and being safe with this tool.

Having a scroll saw is helpful if you’re looking to make some scroll saw patterns. Besides, scroll saw projects are some of the most woodworking projects that you can engage in. And in this post, we’re going to look at some of the best free scroll saw patterns that you could make with your scroll

Kathy Wise's intarsia work re-defines the boundaries of that specialty and this week some lucky students get to try their hands at creating their own intarsia pieces. By Friday it was mission successful!