We have recently been sent the following, lovely post, from long-term Woodlorean Bosco Li. Bosco has successfully tried his hand at making a pair of beautiful Sami shoe bands, after seeing them on …

We have recently been sent the following, lovely post, from long-term Woodlorean Bosco Li. Bosco has successfully tried his hand at making a pair of beautiful Sami shoe bands, after seeing them on …

I had been exploring a technique known as Sami band weaving. It comes from Sweden and uses a rigid heddle combined with a backstrap loom. T...

Learn how to weave pickup designs on a Saami rigid heddle band loom. This workshop will provide an introduction to 3 styles of Sami band looms made by Stoorstalka – The Sigga heddle, the Sunn…

I had been exploring a technique known as Sami band weaving. It comes from Sweden and uses a rigid heddle combined with a backstrap loom. This photo shows what a traditional Sami band looks like. The photo below shows the equipment that I ordered from Sweden. It's a fabulous little rigid heddle that is designed in such a way that the pattern bands are separate from the others making it very easy to pick the pattern. So I had a go and it worked thanks to a You Tube video and some online posts in a weaving forum. Now I had a way to make pattern bands to include in a larger project.

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We have recently been sent the following, lovely post, from long-term Woodlorean Bosco Li. Bosco has successfully tried his hand at making a pair of beautiful Sami shoe bands, after seeing them on …

Weaving a Sámi band with 11 pattern threads. Sámi shoe band. I saw this beautiful band in Oulu in the Northern Ostrobothnia Museum. It is a Sámi shoe band. There are three motifs and the pattern repeat is: A,B,A,C, Warp and weft details Warp: red, blue and yellow wool Background: yellow wool Weft: yellow wool which makes a speckled selvedge. Warp plan for border There are 10 border threads on each side. The warp plan gives the warp order to the centre. Reverse the sequence for the complete warp. There are 51 warp ends in total. Remember that the red pattern threads are twice the thickness of the background threads. Using the Sunna double slotted heddle. The Sunna heddle has 13 shorter slots for the pattern threads. If you wish to weave a band with fewer pattern threads some slots will be empty. One pattern slot on either side is left empty. In order for the threading of the border threads to keep to the correct sequence of hole then long slot, one long slot has to remain empty on each side. Threading for the Sunna heddle. Note the empty long and shorter slot on each side. Using a standard heddle Threading for the standard heddle. Here is the pattern draft. first part of draft There are 58 picks for the pattern repeat so I have divided the chart into two. second part of draft This is the second part of the pattern draft. There are 58 picks for the pattern repeat in total. Using a standard heddle The dots on the chart indicate which pattern threads appear on the top layer of warp when raising or lowering the heddle. The heddle is raised on the odd number and lowered on the even numbers. When raising the heddle, pattern threads 2,4,6,8 & 10 appear on the surface. Lowering the heddle gives pattern threads 1,3,5,7,9 & 11 on the surface. Using a standard heddle on pick 1, you need to pick up pattern threads 1 and 13 from the lower level and drop down pattern threads 4 and 8 from the top level in order to select the correct pattern threads for the surface pattern. This is an attractive band. I like the way the weaver has made a speckled selvedge by having two red threads at the end and using a yellow weft. Can you see on the second part of the draft that the centre of the shapes has a row of three spaces? Look at the reverse side of the band. You can see that where there are three spaces on the front, the pattern on the reverse is not clear. If you look at the first part of the pattern draft, the spaces are in a cross formation and on the reverse of the band the cross is crisp. This is a typical example of Sámi design and is rarely used in other countries. It means that the band has a definite front and back. I have analysed many bands with this type of motif. It is used to great effect in the designs. Susan J Foulkes January 2015 Weaving a heart pattern. Here is a pattern for a heart shape using 11 pattern threads. You can use a Sunna double slotted heddle, a standard heddle or an inkle loom. Pattern for heart shape with 11 pattern threads. There are twelve picks for this pattern. Repeat until you have woven the length you require. Close up of the heart pattern. Happy weaving Susan J Foulkes February 2015

Samples of lessons from Sue Foulkes' Sami band workshop

Weaving a Sámi band with 11 pattern threads. Sámi shoe band. I saw this beautiful band in Oulu in the Northern Ostrobothnia ...

Sami band weaving has traditionally been woven using a small reed made of wood or bone. The heddle has long slots alternating with small holes for the warp. The

Using a Sunna double slotted heddle with 13 pattern threads. This is the heddle that I use most frequently. Bands with 11 or 13 pattern t...

Using a Sunna double slotted heddle with 13 pattern threads. This is the heddle that I use most frequently. Bands with 11 or 13 pattern threads can be woven comfortably. Sunna heddle, Gehpa shuttle, band lock and G-clamp Here is a heart motif. The thirteen pattern threads are red. The pattern and background threads are 6/2 cotton. The red pattern threads are doubled. There are 12 picks for the pattern repeat. The pattern chart shows only the coloured pattern threads when they appear on the surface. The coloured squares show the pattern threads that should appear on the surface of the woven band. There are 12 picks for the pattern repeat. When you reach pick 12, start again at pick 1. The pattern draft only shows the 13 red pattern threads. It is a guide to which pattern threads should appear on the surface of the woven band. Raise the heddle on the odd numbered picks and lower the heddle on the even numbered picks. All the pattern threads remain in a line in the centre of the shed when the heddle is raised or lowered. This makes it easy to pick up the pattern threads that you need to show on the surface of the band. The tip of the shuttle is used to pick up the correct pattern threads to appear on the surface of the band. Weaving at the Weave Fair, 2014 Depending upon the thickness of thread that you use, this would make a useful bookmark, with five or six pattern repeats. I wove this pattern at the Weave Fair in Umea in 2014 The Sunna Double Slotted Heddle. Here is the threading for a Sunna double slotted heddle with 13 shorter pattern slots. Threading for the double slotted heddle. To see the weaving process with a Sunna double slotted heddle, look at this YouTube video: Weaving a Sámi patterned band The Standard heddle or inkle loom. The Heart heddle: perfect for weaving this band. This beautifully carved wooden heddle is made by Åke Erlandsson, who is eighty years old. It can be purchased from Vav Kompaniet who ship worldwide. For an inkle loom, the heddled threads are indicated by the hole and the unheddled threads by the slot. Note that the centre pattern thread is always threaded through the centre hole in the heddle. When push down the unheddled threads, the pattern threads 1,3,5,7,9, 11 and 13 will appear on the surface. When using the pattern draft, you may have to bring up a pattern thread from the bottom layer or push down a pattern thread from the top layer to weave the pattern. For hints about weaving, see my YouTube video: Weaving narrow warp faced bands. Threading for a standard heddle or inkle loom. For a standard heddle, look at the pattern draft. You will see that some squares have dots. This indicates which pattern threads will normally be on the surface when you raise or lower the heddle. For pick 1, when you raise the standard heddle, pattern threads numbered 1,3,5,7,9,11 and 13 appear on the top. You will need to drop down pattern threads 3, 5, 9 and 11. For pick 2, when you lower the heddle, pattern threads numbered 2,4,6,8, 10 and 12 appear on the surface. You will need to pick up 7 and drop down 4 and 10. The dots on the weaving chart show which patterns threads appear on the surface when you raise or lower the heddle and are also a guide for designing your own patterns. Look at the pattern draft. A pattern thread which is raised over three picks, always starts and ends on a dotted square. Any single pattern thread will always be on a dotted square. Starting to weave using a backstrap. First make sure you find a comfortable weaving position. The far end of the warp is attached to a G-clamp or other post. The weaving end of the warp needs to be tied around your backstrap. 1. Divide the warp into two and take the ends around the backstrap or band lock. Take each bunch of warp ends over the backstrap or band lock. 2. Adjust the tension on the warp ends. If you pull one way and then the other you will find that the heddle rocks from side to side. The heddle should lie straight on the warp. If it leans then the warp is unevenly tensioned. The heddle leans to one side if the tension is not even. The heddle lies straight on the warp. 3. Insert a thicker thread or some sticks into the first three sheds of the warp. This helps to provide a firm base on which to start the weaving. It also spread the warp at the weaving end. Adding some sticks to the first three sheds. 4. Now start to weave the first pick. Leave a long length of weft thread at one side. Leave a tail of weft thread at the side of the first pick. 5. On the second pick, take the shuttle and weft through and also take the length of weft from the first pick through as well. There are now two weft threads in the same shed. Two wefts in the same shed. 6. Now pull on the shuttle and the loose weft end. the warp ends will pull together and the weft is secure. I usually put the weft end through the next pick as well to secure it. The warp is now ready for weaving. Happy weaving Durham Weaver 2017

11 pattern slot loom with shuttle. (no yarn included!) heddle: o 11 pattern threads o heddle 23.5cm x 12.5 cm (9.3in x 5in) o baltic birch plywood lasercut o finished with linseed oil o center marked hardwood shuttle: Saami style finished with linseed oil. for weaving and net making 27cm x 3.6 cm The one pictured is an example. Yours while be similar, just with variations in the grain and slightly with color since this is the nature of wood.

Using a Sunna double slotted heddle with 9 pattern threads. The double slotted heddle is available in smaller sizes of 5, 7 and 9 shorter slots for patterns threads. These heddles can be used with a back strap, in a box loom or on a larger inkle loom. The Sunna double slotted heddle with 9 pattern slots. The Sunna double slotted heddle with 9 pattern slots. Here is the threading chart for the 9 Sunna double slotted heddle. The 9 pattern threads are numbered and are indicated in red. They should be at least twice as thick as the background and border threads. The centre pattern thread is 5 on the chart. It is possible to weave bands with 5 and 7 pattern threads using the 9 pattern slot heddle. Here is the threading chart for 7 pattern threads on a 9 pattern slot heddle. The grey squares indicate an empty hole, long slot or pattern slot. The centre pattern thread is 4 on the chart. Here is the threading chart for 5 pattern threads on a 9 pattern slot heddle. The grey squares indicate an empty hole, long slot or pattern slot. The centre pattern thread is 3 on the chart. YouTube video showing how to thread the double slotted heddle. I have made a YouTube video to show an easy way to thread the 9 slot heddle. Threading the double slotted heddle at https://youtu.be/iE-my-qxFwA I have used the Sunna double slotted heddle for 9 pattern threads on my inkle loom. Using an inkle loom with a 9 pattern slot heddle. Using the 9 pattern slot Sunna heddle on an inkle loom. To use the heddle on an inkle loom, you will need to check that it will fit. The 9 Sunna heddle is 7 inches wide and 5.5 inches in height. (17.5 x 14 cm). First measure the length of the warp that you want by winding a thread around the path it will take on the inkle loom. Add on about 4 inches for tying it on. Make the warp and thread it through the double slotted heddle. The warp should then be wound around the inkle loom with the two ends of the warp at the front of the loom. It is important that the warp is spread evenly when wrapping it around the inkle loom pegs. The warp ends need to be tied together so that it can move freely around the loom. It is important the the tension is even across the warp ends. Adjust the final tension on the inkle loom. You are now ready to start weaving. Knot the two ends of the warp. Here is a close up of the knot tying the two ends of the warp together. Here is the pattern draft for 9 pattern threads. The coloured squares show the pattern threads that should appear on the surface of the woven band. When raising or lowering the heddle, the pattern threads remain in a line in the centre of the shed. The tip of the shuttle is used to pick up the correct pattern threads to appear on the surface of the band. The heddle should be raised on the even numbered picks and lowered on the odd numbered picks. There are 22 picks for the pattern repeat. To see the weaving process with a larger Sunna double slotted heddle, look at this YouTube video: Using the Sunna heddle to weave patterned bands. Here is the woven band showing the two sides. The weaving side of the band. The underside of the band. Using a standard heddle or an inkle loom. Here is the threading chart for a standard heddle or an inkle loom and 9 pattern threads. Threading for a standard heddle or inkle loom. For an inkle loom, the heddled threads are indicated by the hole and the unheddled threads by the slot. Note that the centre pattern thread is always threaded through the centre hole in the heddle. When you raise the heddle, the centre pattern thread (and pattern threads 1, 3 and 9) will appear on the surface. When using the pattern draft, you may have to bring up a pattern thread from the bottom layer or push down a pattern thread from the top layer to weave the pattern. See my YouTube video: Weaving narrow warp faced bands. Threading a 13 slot heddle for weaving a 9 pattern band I have been asked to show the threading for weaving a 9 pattern thread band on a 13 Sunna heddle. i would not recommend using fewer than 9 pattern threads on the 13 pattern slot heddle. It becomes harder to keep an even width. Threading for 13 pattern slot heddle. Look at the threading for the 13 Sunna double slotted heddle. Only half the threading is given. P indicates the pattern threads which are always at least double the thickness of the background and border threads. B indicates a border or background thread. Pattern thread 7 is the centre of the band and is threaded into the centre pattern slot. Remember that only half the threading is given. The threading needs to be completed on the right side. The background threads in the centre of the band are threaded in two slots then two holes. The weave structure is half basket weave. The border threads are threaded alternately in long slots and holes. The weave structure is plain weave. Now look at the how the 13 pattern slots can be used for 9 pattern threads. Threading a 13 pattern slot heddle for 9 pattern threads. Look at the threading for the 13 Sunna double slotted heddle. Only half the threading is given. Pattern thread 5 is the centre of the band and is threaded into the centre pattern slot. The threading needs to be completed on the right side. Two pattern slots on each side are empty: four in all. The background threads in the centre of the band are threaded in two slots then two holes. The weave structure is half basket weave. The border threads are threaded alternately in long slots and holes. The weave structure is plain weave. However, a couple of long slots and holes must be left empty. It is important to keep the border threading as plain weave. The border threads must go alternately into a long slot and hole. Look at the threading diagram above and you can see that the border threads are in the correct order. To do this, a long slot and a hole must be left empty. Weaving the band. Using a 13 double slot heddle to weave a band with 9 pattern threads means that the threads are not as close together in the heddle on the border as they would normally be. When weaving pay particular attention to the band and make sure that the weft is pulled in tightly enough. The warp threads have a tendency to pull the band open where there are gaps in the threading. So, it is possible, but a little more care needs to be taken in the weaving and, of course the threading should be correct. Happy weaving. Durham Weaver February 2017

The Sigga heddles from Stoorstalka This new design of heddle from Stoorstalka makes weaving a particular type of Sami band easier. A Sami weaving tutor worked with Stoorstalka to develop it. I have made a YouTube video showing how to weave using the Sigga heddle. Weaving Sámi bands with one group of pattern threads 2015 The video shows a band with 10 pattern threads. The pattern for the band is given on the video. Stoorstalka have just released a new video showing the Sigga 8 heddle in action. It has English subtitles and is very professional. I wish my videos were this good. Here is the link https://youtu.be/Ta0NthvwMfM Using the Sigga Heddle. Here is another pattern for the Sigga heddle. I used the 16 pattern slot heddle but this pattern only has 6 pattern threads. I used wool from Stoorstalka for the band. It is very narrow - only 1.4 cm in width. Warp Details. Number of warp ends: 31 These are threaded alternately through a hole and a long slot. Yarn: wool Number of pattern threads: 6 pattern threads in red wool the same thickness as the background and border threads. These pattern threads are threaded through the shorter slots. Weave drawdown. Weave drawdown for background and border threads. This weave drawdown shows only the background and border threads. They are threaded alternately through a long slot and hole. It shows the first six picks with no pattern threads. For this band, the first three picks have the pattern threads on the surface. For the second set of three picks the pattern threads are on the reverse side. Look at the picture of the woven band to see how the pattern threads appear. Threading the heddle. I have found that it is easier to thread the heddle by making two separate warps. Make a warp for the background and border threads and a separate warp for the pattern threads. Look at the weaving tips at the end of the video. Thread the background and border threads first. These are threaded through the long slots and holes. The centre background thread is threaded through the centre long slot in the Sigga heddle. Once these are threaded, take the second warp of 6 pattern threads. Thread these yarns through the shorter slots in the heddle. I usually thread them by starting in the middle and working outwards. For this band there are only 6 pattern threads so there are five empty pattern slots on either side. Threading diagram for the 16 slot Sigga heddle. The woven band. Here is the completed band. The band is 1.4cm (0.5 inch) in width. I made a short YouTube video to show how to weave using the Sigga heddle to accompany the 2015 online workshop with Braids and Bands. Do watch the video so that you understand how to weave this type of band. There are some weaving tips at the end of the video. Further information. There are two books which have patterns for this type of band. Unfortunately both are out of print. However, here are the details should you wish to search for them. ISBN 91-631-0498-0 Sameslöjdstiftelsen Sámi Duodji, Same Ätnam 2000 The picture on the front shows the traditional method of weaving. The digital museum in Norway has a series of photographs showing this method of weaving. You can scroll through several photographs showing how the band is woven ( go to Next above the photograph) A set of string heddles are used to pull the pattern threads down. The pattern threads are loose so that the pattern can be adjusted on the top and underneath the band whilst weaving. ISBN 91-631-0499-7 Sameslöjdstiftelsen Sámi Duodji, Same Ätnam 2000 Week two of the workshop looked at bands with two groups of pattern threads. The video accompanying the workshop is Using the Sigga heddle to weave bands with two groups of pattern threads http://youtu.be/OGWvsfWr6wk New Web site information There is a wonderfully informative web site which gives more patterns for the Sigga heddle. Check out http://vevstua.bull-sveen.net/?page_id=1337 Happy Weaving Susan J Foulkes March 2017

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Using a Sunna double slotted heddle with 13 pattern threads. This is the heddle that I use most frequently. Bands with 11 or 13 pattern threads can be woven comfortably. Sunna heddle, Gehpa shuttle, band lock and G-clamp Here is a heart motif. The thirteen pattern threads are red. The pattern and background threads are 6/2 cotton. The red pattern threads are doubled. There are 12 picks for the pattern repeat. The pattern chart shows only the coloured pattern threads when they appear on the surface. The coloured squares show the pattern threads that should appear on the surface of the woven band. There are 12 picks for the pattern repeat. When you reach pick 12, start again at pick 1. The pattern draft only shows the 13 red pattern threads. It is a guide to which pattern threads should appear on the surface of the woven band. Raise the heddle on the odd numbered picks and lower the heddle on the even numbered picks. All the pattern threads remain in a line in the centre of the shed when the heddle is raised or lowered. This makes it easy to pick up the pattern threads that you need to show on the surface of the band. The tip of the shuttle is used to pick up the correct pattern threads to appear on the surface of the band. Weaving at the Weave Fair, 2014 Depending upon the thickness of thread that you use, this would make a useful bookmark, with five or six pattern repeats. I wove this pattern at the Weave Fair in Umea in 2014 The Sunna Double Slotted Heddle. Here is the threading for a Sunna double slotted heddle with 13 shorter pattern slots. Threading for the double slotted heddle. To see the weaving process with a Sunna double slotted heddle, look at this YouTube video: Weaving a Sámi patterned band The Standard heddle or inkle loom. The Heart heddle: perfect for weaving this band. This beautifully carved wooden heddle is made by Åke Erlandsson, who is eighty years old. It can be purchased from Vav Kompaniet who ship worldwide. For an inkle loom, the heddled threads are indicated by the hole and the unheddled threads by the slot. Note that the centre pattern thread is always threaded through the centre hole in the heddle. When push down the unheddled threads, the pattern threads 1,3,5,7,9, 11 and 13 will appear on the surface. When using the pattern draft, you may have to bring up a pattern thread from the bottom layer or push down a pattern thread from the top layer to weave the pattern. For hints about weaving, see my YouTube video: Weaving narrow warp faced bands. Threading for a standard heddle or inkle loom. For a standard heddle, look at the pattern draft. You will see that some squares have dots. This indicates which pattern threads will normally be on the surface when you raise or lower the heddle. For pick 1, when you raise the standard heddle, pattern threads numbered 1,3,5,7,9,11 and 13 appear on the top. You will need to drop down pattern threads 3, 5, 9 and 11. For pick 2, when you lower the heddle, pattern threads numbered 2,4,6,8, 10 and 12 appear on the surface. You will need to pick up 7 and drop down 4 and 10. The dots on the weaving chart show which patterns threads appear on the surface when you raise or lower the heddle and are also a guide for designing your own patterns. Look at the pattern draft. A pattern thread which is raised over three picks, always starts and ends on a dotted square. Any single pattern thread will always be on a dotted square. Starting to weave using a backstrap. First make sure you find a comfortable weaving position. The far end of the warp is attached to a G-clamp or other post. The weaving end of the warp needs to be tied around your backstrap. 1. Divide the warp into two and take the ends around the backstrap or band lock. Take each bunch of warp ends over the backstrap or band lock. 2. Adjust the tension on the warp ends. If you pull one way and then the other you will find that the heddle rocks from side to side. The heddle should lie straight on the warp. If it leans then the warp is unevenly tensioned. The heddle leans to one side if the tension is not even. The heddle lies straight on the warp. 3. Insert a thicker thread or some sticks into the first three sheds of the warp. This helps to provide a firm base on which to start the weaving. It also spread the warp at the weaving end. Adding some sticks to the first three sheds. 4. Now start to weave the first pick. Leave a long length of weft thread at one side. Leave a tail of weft thread at the side of the first pick. 5. On the second pick, take the shuttle and weft through and also take the length of weft from the first pick through as well. There are now two weft threads in the same shed. Two wefts in the same shed. 6. Now pull on the shuttle and the loose weft end. the warp ends will pull together and the weft is secure. I usually put the weft end through the next pick as well to secure it. The warp is now ready for weaving. Happy weaving Durham Weaver 2017

A complete kit for you who wants to try band weaving with pattern Sigga 8.The following is included in the kit:Yarn Áhkko and Siessá, warp length 1,5 meterPattern description and instructionsHeddle Sigga 8 (alreade warped)Gehpa ShuttleBand lockWeaving belt in cotton

This is a handwoven wool bookmark. This bookmark has been woven on a Scandinavian band loom, using Norwegian wool yarn. One end of the bookmark is finished with a piece of reindeer leather. The other end has a fringe finish. The bookmark measures approximately: Length: 25 cm (9.75 inches) W...More This is a handwoven wool bookmark. This bookmark has been woven on a Scandinavian band loom, using Norwegian wool yarn. One end of the bookmark is finished ...More