What's the difference between direct and indirect warping? Should you use a warping board or warping peg? Find out which is right for you!
Sara Goldenberg White shares her tips, tricks, and best practices for using pick-up sticks on the rigid-heddle loom.
Learn the basics of rigid heddle weaving. Find out what you need to get started. This article talks about selecting yarn & reeds for your rigid heddle loom.
In A Weaver’s Guide to Yarn I start with sett. Understanding warp density’s effect on cloth is where the rubber meets the road, or in our case, the yarn meets the loom. Sett is the number of warp ends within an inch of the rigid heddle reed. Because rigid-heddle weavers often double up our ends in ... Read more
Rigid heddles are wonderful tools for bandweaving, once you know how to use them. Watch an exclusive video featuring Spin Off’s Kate Larson to learn how to warp and weave on a rigid heddle, no loom required!
In this post, I'll show you how to set up your Schacht Flip Loom for the first time, warp it, and weave some simple dish towels on your rigid heddle loom.
On the rigid-heddle loom, Susan E. Horton designs gorgeous towels and napkins that have all the drape and absorbency of a floor loom–woven towel but with much less time spent warping.
Based in Ashburton, New Zealand, Ashford Handicrafts are the world’s leading manufacturers of Spinning Wheels, Weaving Looms and other textile equipment and supplies.
I cannot remember exactly when is that I decided to try weaving, but I got attracted it progressively more in my quest for hand made skirts – I am not too fond of how knitted skirts look (tho…
I used 2 colorways of Noro Silk Garden sock yarn: a bold brightly colored one for the warp and a more subdued one for the weft. I’m not sure of the exact color numbers. 8 dent reed, 13” wide x 96...
My Kromski loom came with something that Kromski calls a "Warp Helper". It is a block of wood with a rectangular slot in the bottom and a hole through the top - for the apron dowel to slide through to hold the dowel while you warp. On my 32" loom the dowel both pulls this block off the edge of the loom that you are supposed to push it down on and the length of the dowel cannot be supported by a single block like this. I tried to make my own similar blocks and none really were very satisfactory. The idea is that the warp dowel needs to be held while the warp is being tied on to it. I have since watched Kromski's video on using this and saw that if one were warping on a warping board and then transfering the yarn to the loom to tie onto the warp beam, the Kromski warp helper will work, but when direct warping - which is so common with a rigid heddle loom - the block does not work well. So what to do to hold the warp dowel when warping - and then again hold the cloth side dowel when tying on the warp on that side? The answer just came to me one day and it is SO simple that it is just silly that this is not shown all of the time! I used rubber bands. Not special rubber bands but thick and strong rubber bands. These are the type of rubber bands that the post office uses. And they can be found where stationary is sold - Walmart, Staples, or other office stores or stationary sections in a bag of many for just a few dollars. You will get more rubber bands in that bag than you will ever need. Here in photos I can show you much easier what I am talking about. You have your apron rod or dowel that you are going to tie your first warp thread on, and take a loop from that thread through your heddle slot to your warping peg and back again - but the dowel is just hanging there. Wouldn't it be easier if it was up and supported in front of you - straight across the back of the loom? Take a look here - Here you can see the apron rod for the warp - in the back of the loom. You are looking from the front to the back. See how the rod (what the warp loops around) is sticking straight across - with its cords stretched out behind it connected to the warp beam. Now look to the left of the photo from the end of the heddle back. Wait - here is a close up of that - See the rubber band? So simple. There is a rubber band on each side of the loom. One end of one rubber band goes around the top of the heddle block and the other end goes around the end of the apron rod (or dowel). Do this on each side. Put the rubber band on, and crank back your apron rod to put some tension on the rubber band. Position the rod where it is comfortable for you to tie and wrap onto it as you warp. Can you believe how simple this is. Now, once you have all of your warp on the warp apron rod, take the rubber bands off BEFORE you start winding your warp on the warp beam. This is easy to forget - but you will not be happy if you leave those two rubber bands in place. BUT just put them aside, you still need them! The warp is all set on the warp beam. You have taken one warp out of each slot and put it in the adjacent hole. You are now ready to tie it on the front beam. And you are going to use your rubber bands again. You will do the exact same thing but now on the front dowel. Take a look - It is hard to see but there is a rubber band on both the left and the right sides. Here is a close up of the right side. With the dowel straight across and being held in place with the rubber bands, start tying your warp on the front beam. Here are close ups of the rubber bands going around the top of the heddle block and dowel end. Once you start tying your warp bundles on to the dowel and you have enough evenly on both sides of the dowel to support the rod with the warp, you can take the rubber bands off. I have left them on until the end, but I have been finding that they might interfere with getting a good tension before you make your final adjustments of each bundle to get even tension on each. No matter what - you must take these rubber bands OFF BEFORE you start to make your adjustments of tension on each bundle. If you don't you will not have correct tension on your warp to weave with. You can certainly use each rubber band many times but if you use two that have stretched out unevenly, you will put your dowel at an angle. Just take a look at how far each end of the dowel is from the heddle - the two measurements should be equal. A simple ruler put from the heddle to the dowel on each end will tell you immediately if you need to put these rubber bands aside and take two new ones. Those rubber bands are still good - for the usual uses for rubber bands. This will work on any Rigid Heddle Loom - as long as there is part of the heddle block sticking up to put the rubber band around. So you see, two simple rubber bands can make a job that potentially can be frustrating simple and easy!
[vc_row row_id=”Product_List”][vc_column el_class=”product_facets_container closed” width=”1/4″][vc_widget_sidebar sidebar_id=”projects-facets”][/vc_…
Wondering how to choose and use your first rigid heddle loom? Download this guide for the full scoop! Simply add this free PDF to your cart, checkout, and you'll be sent the link to download it. Don't worry - you won't be asked for your credit card info during the checkout process (unless, of course, you also have yarn in your cart). Fair warning: you're going to be tempted to get yourself a rigid heddle loom (or 3!)
how to sell your handwoven
If your weaving pattern calls for a rigid-heddle size you don't have, try modifing the threading of your rigid heddle to gives you more options.
Foto er fra samlingene til Nordiska Museet, Stockholm, 2012. saamiblog.blogspot.no/ Søk: samisk vävsked www.digitaltmuseum.se/search?query=samisk+v%C3%A4vsked&am...
I love weaving on my Rigid Heddle Loom and I love making towels! Stripes, plaid, checkered and now waffle weave! You can’t imagine how excited I was when I realized that waffle weave can be a…
Learn the how to prevent tension problems on your rigid heddle loom while warping, and how to fix tension issues while weaving.
It is no secret that I have a preference for using a warping board to dress a rigid-heddle loom. This is now called the indirect method. Before rigid-heddle weaving became so popular, the indirect method was “warping.” To many new weavers the direct method is the only warping method she or he will ever need ... Read more
What's the difference between direct and indirect warping? Should you use a warping board or warping peg? Find out which is right for you!
Based in Ashburton, New Zealand, Ashford Handicrafts are the world’s leading manufacturers of Spinning Wheels, Weaving Looms and other textile equipment and supplies.
This post teaches you how to use string heddles on your rigid heddle loom instead of using multiple pick-up sticks.
By Amelia I came to rigid heddle weaving after weaving on 4- and 8-harness looms. So, lucky me, I already knew how to read a weaving draft (also sometimes called a pattern, though it's not a pattern in the sense of being a complete item being made, but a pattern of yarn interlacements on the loom). I could use that skill to figure out if I could apply it to my rigid heddle loom. This led to the posts about which patterns were usable on the rigid heddle loom. Which led the rigid-heddle-first weavers to ask, "how do you read a draft?" There are two (or possibly three) parts to that, though -- first, is understanding the parts of a weaving draft, and what makes it feasible to do on the rigid heddle loom as-it-stands. Second, is understanding how to apply it to a 2-heddle loom, as many (Schacht, Glimakra, Ashford Knitter's) can have second heddles. Third, would be the grand finale -- how to use pickup sticks to get more complex patterns. That, could be a fiber arts degree :) but I'll do my best to talk about recognizing what sorts of patterns are straight-forward to do on the rigid heddle loom - in part three. Weaving drafts are presented in the books I already covered, in a formal type of graph-paper looking thing like this: There are three parts to that blank weaving draft: First, we have the harnesses. This section shows how to pull yarn through the harnesses on your loom -- the lowest row is the first harness ~ I've labelled it 1, the next is the second harness, and so on. This diagram is for a four harness weaving draft, since there are four rows. Then, we have the tie-up. This is used for tieing up the harnesses to the levers on the loom. Now, most table looms have only direct tie-up, harness 1 to lever 1, harness 2 to lever 2, and so on. So, the tie-up in this case is an "abbreviation" to simplify presentation of the third part of the graph (the treadling, but let's not go there yet). On many floor looms, you can do tie-ups of multiple harnesses to one lever, so you'd tie up harnesses to levers to match the diagram. I'm going to completely gloss over Jack vs. Countermarch (or is it counterbalance?) looms, rising vs. sinking sheds, and all that stuff that still makes my eyes gloss over ... I promise to learn it someday, in the meantime see Leigh's Fiber Journal, she's talked about that before. Third, the treadling shows which lever to pull to execute the pattern of the weaving draft. This operates in conjunction with the tie-up. So, if you have "direct tie-up", harness 1 to lever 1, and so on, you'll have to lift all the levers selected in the first column when the first column's square is ticked in the graph. It's a combination of which harnesses the yarn goes through, and which ones are raised, that creates the marvelous patterns on the loom. Now, a rigid heddle is just that -- it's rigid. On a harness loom, the heddles move back and forth, spaced where you need them. This lets you do things like thread harness one multiple times in a row, then harness two, then three, then two again, then four, and so on -- getting quite inventive. There's a great writeup on IndieanaWeavers.org, Twills, Twills, Twills by Eleanor Best showing many interesting applications of that concept. So, how can you determine if a weaving draft can be done on the rigid heddle loom? The first kind that can, are 2-harness drafts. Those are the ones I listed from the books The Handweaver's Pattern Directory, Handwoven Scarves, and Color and Weave. Spotting a two harness draft can be as simple as making sure that only harness 1 and 2 have a check in them -- no yarns are put on harness 3 or 4 at all. That's the easiest. Shown here is a log cabin threading, tie-up, and treadling, that uses only the two harnesses so it's quite easy to see that it is a rigid heddle pattern. Sometimes, however, four harnesses will be used, but the tie-up will make the pattern a plain weave. The Handweaver's Pattern Directory did this a fair bit, actually, and I spotted a log cabin draft using four harnesses online here ~ so it's fairly common. A plain-weave tie-up puts the first and third strands on one lever, and the second and fourth strands on the other lever. The simplest case of this is shown here. There are more complex two-harness weaves than the simple plain-weave and its color and weave variations (log cabin, herringbone, plaid, and lots more). Hopsack (work on loom shown here) is one example. Its draft has threads repeating in harness 1 and harness 2, and also in the weft. This presents the challenge of deciding how to thread your fixed heddles. You can put 2 threads through a hole, and 3 through a slot -- but you'd want the right number of ends per inch as well, so you might end up with 2 through a hole, 2 through a slot, skip a hole, and 1 through the next slot to get the 2/3 pattern spread a little wider. This brings up the issue of "reed marks" ... the uneven distribution of yarns through the heddle can leave visible spacing in the final cloth. Sampling would be key, on the rigid heddle, to see if the marks are visible and unacceptable in your final fabric. A fabric that is loosely woven and then fulled, has the opportunity to move the yarns around and remove any reed marks from the as-woven fabric, or reduce their appearance. So adapting some weaving patterns to the rigid heddle -- those that aren't based in a plain weave pattern, but in repeating yarns in a harness -- should be done after sampling and fulling the sample to see how it does on your loom. Second, with hopsack, we have to deal with how to get two and then three weft shots through on the same heddle position. You could run 2 strands through at a time of one color, and 3 of the other, but they may bunch up and twirl around each other. The "big kids" technique of a floating selvedge can be handy -- an extra end-strand, run through a slot, that you always go around on each side of your fabric. This ensures that your strands will lay next to each other in the weaving, and not wind around each other, since you'd go across, wrap the selvedge, come back, wrap the selvedge, and then do the third pass, before changing the heddle for the other color. That's what we did with the hopsack fabric shown above. Once you've found a two harness draft, decide how to match the harnesses to your rigid heddle -- make harness 1 the holes and harness 2 the slots, throughout. Decide on the ends per inch for your yarn, and see if you will need to skip or repeat yarns in holes or slots to make the pattern match up to the harnesses in the draft. If the treadling repeats a given lever more than one time, you'll want to add floating selvedges to your warp as well. Treadle to match the tie-up and treadling, wrapping floating selvedges each time if you've used them. And wa-la! you're now weaving with the big looms :) Armed with this tip-of-the-iceberg knowledge of weaving drafts and how to spot a 2-harness draft, then, you can tackle any pattern book to see which drafts require only 2 harnesses and thus, could be applied to the rigid heddle loom. Next up: identifying 3-harness patterns for the rigid heddle loom with two heddles. ~~ The first two woven fabrics are 8 harness patterns, with apologies to the rigid heddle weavers. However, that first one can actually be done on a rigid heddle loom -- David Xenakis has an article in The Best of Weaver's Series: Huck Lace called "Muck" which shows how to make complex huck lace patterns (that would require 12 harnesses or even more!!) on a rigid heddle loom. See the Weave topic for more articles on weaving. Part Two is now available, What can you weave with 2 heddles on the rigid heddle loom? ~~ posted 3 February 2009 at http://askthebellwether.blogspot.com/
This weaving kit includes all the yarns needed to weave these Gridlock Tea Towels that were designed by Tammy Bast from The Rogue Weaver. Color and Weave is always fun! Here’s a set of towels that are sure to catch your eye and wow your friends! Weave structure: plain weave Yarns: Aurora Earth 8/2 Cottons in Dark Navy, Winter Green, and Plum Green. Other colors are available upon request. Equipment needed: rigid heddle loom; 24" weaving width; 10 dent reed; 3 shuttles Finished size: two towels 19” x 26” hemmed. Instructions needed: Gridlock Tea Towels from therogueweaver.com. This weaving kit includes all the yarns needed to weave these Gridlock Tea Towels that were designed by Tammy Bast, The Rogue Weaver. The pattern is needed and can be found at therogueweaver.com. Photos by Tammy Bass
A major difference in weaving with cotton rather than wool is managing tension. Cotton behaves differently to wool because it doesn’t have any natural stretch. When we think about the triangles created by the moving shed positions, we know that the warp threads must be relaxed enough to extend to th
Foto er fra samlingene til Nordiska Museet, Stockholm, 2012. saamiblog.blogspot.no/ Søk: samisk vävsked www.digitaltmuseum.se/search?query=samisk+v%C3%A4vsked&am...
Direct warping is a method of measuring the yarn for your warp at the same time that you are putting it on the loom. The usual method of direct warping - and there are many free videos on YouTube to show how to do this - is to clamp an vertical peg to a table (some use the top of a chair back) that is the distance from the apron dowel of your loom that the warp is to be long, and warp from the back of the loom tying your first warp thread to the apron dowel and then passing a loop of that warp through the first slot you have calculated to start your warp in to go across the loom the number of slots and holes also calculated. The heddle hook or slay hook is used to pick up the loop from the opposite side of the heddle, through the slot toward you and then catching the loop and pulling from back to front through that slot. This puts TWO warp threads (it is a loop that is going through) now on the cloth side of the heddle. You get up, take that loop in your fingers and walk it across the room to the warping peg and place the loop over and down on the vertical peg. You carry the yarn now back with you to the loom and then continue with the warp thread (placed under the loom on the warp side) and keep passing loops through. This is a simplified explanation of the process. Now, what can go wrong? Well, if you put too much tension on that warp loop as you carry it down to the peg, you transfer that tension to the warp on the peg when you put it on - and you may just find that the peg comes flying off the table - and all the warp becomes a tangled mess on the floor - sometimes impossible to get straightened out - and usually just as you were about to finish the warp. That is one thing that can go wrong. Another problem is that if the peg is not tall enough, you can run out of peg before you are finished and you will find yourself pushing it all down as best you can to make more room. And still another problem is that with the warp going across the loom to a single point - the peg - you create a V from peg to loom with the closed end of the V at the peg. The distance from each side of the loom to the middle will be at different lengths. So what can you do about this. I was a wonderful idea shared on one of the Weaving Facebook groups by a very smart lady, Ingrid Koch. She came up with a horizontal warping rod instead of a warping peg. As I recall, she used a curtain rod. I looked at her idea and decided to come up with something a little stronger and a way to secure it to a table. I decided to use a thick wood dowel - about 3/4" in diameter and three feet wide. My loom is 32" wide so the 36" long dowel was more than enough for a full warp across the loom. Here is a photo of what I came up with - What you see here are two stand brackets to hold the rod. The table they are on is a garden folding table from IKEA and I bought this table for this purpose - and to use for other weaving related tasks. With this table the brackets are held down to the surface of the table with a screw bolt passed up through the slot of the table through the bracket and tightened on with a wing nut - there is a washer both above and below the bracket. One bracket is cut shorter than the other, but the bottom of the slot that holds the dowel start at the same height from the table. The rod is level across sitting in the brackets. One side is short because this is the side of the rod that will be lifted to slide the warp loop onto. The other bracket is taller so that the dowel does not slip off as the other end is lifted up. In this photo you will see a permanent mark in the exact middle of the dowel. You know when you are half way across your heddle your warp should be right there at that mark on the dowel. There are two pieces of removable painters tape that mark the point the first loop should be placed next to - since I warp right to left - that would be the edge of the tape on the right and the spot the last loop is placed - that is the tape on the left. What you see on the right end (outside the bracket on the dowel) is a bubble level. I will explain why that is there later. So now instead of walking to a vertical peg, with this you walk to the left end of the dowel, lift that end enough to get the warp loop over, and drop the warp loop down at the dowel starting at the edge of the right piece of tape. Let's say I am warping a warp that is to be 104" each warp thread. That warp loop is now 104 inches away from the apron dowel going through the first slot I am warping. The next loop goes right next to that - again 104" long. This goes on for the full width of the warp. When you are done you will have a very straight warp from the warping dowel through the slots in the heddle to and across the apron dowel. This will be the same when the warp is wound onto the warp beam under tension. Every warp thread the same length. All nice and neatly lined up across the beam. If the warp is 12 inches across the apron dowel, it will be 12 inches across the warping rod. With this, it is hard for the warp to fly off. The brackets are securely attached - you could put these on any table edge using two soft faced wood clamps found at any home or tool store. You have a length of dowel to hold your warp as long as the number of slots you are warping through. You don't have to put a lot of tension on the warp - just enough to keep it from sagging. Let me step aside a moment to say this - when you are direct warping, your main goal is to measure the warp length and not to put tension on the warp. The tension will be put on by your helper when you wind on the warp on the warp beam. When you or your partner are taking the rod off the brackets when you are ready to wind the warp onto the back beam, lift it straight up off the brackets just high enough to clear them. You now need to get this to the front of the table. This is easy with this particular table that I picked as it is a gate leg table and what my wife does (who is my warping helper) is move the gate leg closed with her foot from the back of the table and the top comes down. With a table that you cannot do this with, move the rod forward to the front of the table(the tension will be lost but don't worry as the length will not change). Get around to the front and have your helper get hold of the rod and you move the table so that there is room to get tension back on the warp on the rod. If you remove the warp from the rod at the table, you can warp as you usually would do by tying a string or yarn around all of the warp, and then weight that and warp alone. If you have a helper and you leave the warp on the rod held level and straight as you wind on you will get a nice even warp each thread lying next to each other on your back beam. An alternative is to weight down the table. Leave the warp on the rod and the rod in the brackets, start winding on and let the loom be pulled toward the table and the rod as you wind. Get up and walk behind the loom as you do this. I mention here about hold the rod level. I find that this makes a difference in getting a good wind when using a rod like this. That mystery item on the right end of the rod in the first photo is a little bubble level. You can find these for a few dollars in Walmart in the Auto section where they have a section of RV supplies. It is a package of two and these little levels have peel and stick adhesive on the bottom. Stick it on the end of the rod and then whoever is holding the rod while you are winding on will see the bubble and if it is not in the middle the rod (dowel) is not level. Move that end up or down a little and the bubble goes to the middle. I added this when my wife said that it looked level as she was holding the dowel in her two hands but was not sure. I could see from across the room that it was way off. She can now see the level and adjust the dowel as needed. If you leave the warp on the dowel until it gets to the front of the loom, you will have a nice even wind on the beam - every warp thread lined up on the beam just as it will come off the beam while weaving. Thread your holes following the order and you will have no crossed warp threads coming off the warp beam! This works. I was not happy with the direct warp vertical peg. This solved all of the problems I was having with it! ADDENDUM: I have been asked about the size of the table. Here are the dimensions of the table - 28.5" high, 24.5" wide, with one gate leg up - 29.75" long, and with the two gate legs up - 51.75" long. The table is heavy and I purposely looked for a heavy table so that the table would not move when warping. The slats in the top make it easy to anchor the brackets. This table from IKEA is an outdoor table - available during the Spring and summer months.This link will bring you to the IKEA page for this table (as long as IKEA still offers this table) - https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/aepplaroe-gateleg-table-outdoor-brown-stained-brown-50208535/
A set of cotton and linen placemats woven with 8/4 Un-Mercerized Cotton and Duet Cotton/Linen. This rigid heddle pattern uses 2 pick-up sticks and warp floats to create a motif reminiscent of Swedish Huck Lace.
Rigid heddles are wonderful tools for bandweaving, once you know how to use them. Watch an exclusive video featuring Spin Off’s Kate Larson to learn how to warp and weave on a rigid heddle, no loom required!
I happened by chance on Kate Gagnon Osborn’s beautiful LeCorbusier Scarf, and it was love at first sight, I had to weave this! I have since discovered Bronson Lace – the November/Decemb…
from handspun yarns on a rigid heddle loom
Wondering how to choose and use your first rigid heddle loom? Download this guide for the full scoop! Simply add this free PDF to your cart, checkout, and you'll be sent the link to download it. Don't worry - you won't be asked for your credit card info during the checkout process (unless, of course, you also have yarn in your cart). Fair warning: you're going to be tempted to get yourself a rigid heddle loom (or 3!)
Need new string heddles, but you can't find the right size that fits your loom? Or maybe you want to save money to spend on more yarn? Then our heddle jig is just the thing for you! The removable pegs allow you to makes traditional heddles up to 11" long and can be adjusted in 1/2" increments for fine tuning. You can even adjust the center hole size if you would like it a little larger. It can even be used for creating inkle loom heddles to ensure a consistent size! The heddle jig comes with basic instructions and 6 pegs, so you have some extras incase you lose some, or if you want to make fancier heddles with loops on the ends. It can also be used with a thin wire if you'd like. All products are hand sanded till they're super smooth, and then buffed with a natural beeswax blend to seal them. The heddle jig is made of a durable hardwood and measures 13" long, 3.5" wide and 1" thick, while the pegs are 3" long. All woodworking products are hand-carved so there will be some variation in sizes and appearance. Be sure to check our other listings, as we have many tools in all styles, along with lots of other useful and unique fiber products and offerings! ********************************* Thank you for choosing us for your fiber tool needs. We are doing our best to keep all of our small tools in stock. Although, because of all the different sizes and wood varieties, some times your tools might end up being made fresh from the shop. :) Be sure to check our FAQ for more shipping info. If you'd like to learn more, read our blog and learn about sales and other fun stuff... please consider checking out our website! http://www.windhavenfibertools.com Thanks!
Swatching may seem to imply that you are striving to make a perfect thing. For me it is about bringing more joy to the process. A chance to stroll through the what-ifs without the worry. Will I like this color combination or that combination? Will this yarn finish the way I hoped it will? Will ... Read more
By Lynette Glass
Learn to weave a classic set of striped towels on your rigid heddle or multi-shaft loom.
Something I wish to share with you all is a small and simple rigid heddle that I recently made. It is extremely portable and easy to use...
To get the cloth you want, the secret is in the sett. Sett is the spacing of the yarn in the rigid-heddle reed. To guesstimate a balanced sett, where you have the same number of warp ends as you will weft picks, conventional wisdom has the weaver wrapping yarn around a ruler for an inch, ... Read more
Extra large weaving loom 50cm with a turning heddle bar. This big tapestry frame was made of beech wood. It was made locally by a German company. It's an extra large size coming with a heddle bar. It's perfect for weavers who want to weave big tapestries or clothing samples, without having to use a floor loom. The size is the biggest size available - giant and still very practical. The frame will arrive at your doorstep with a turning heddle bar, to help you speed up your process. It will create a gap between alternating warp threads. You will also receive two wooden shuttle sticks to wrap the yarn around. If you wish to use this weaving frame as a rigid heddle loom alternative, please order it together with a set of 4 metal clamps. They will allow you to extend the warping area and weave shawls and clothes! You can unscrew the warping bars (both top and bottom) which makes it easier to control the tension of the warp. Instructions in multiple languages attached. WEAVING TIPS: https://www.kaliko.co/blog/how-to-weave-on-a-diy-cardboard-loom WARPING TIPS: https://www.kaliko.co/blog/how-to-warp-a-frame-loom- EXTENSION TIPS: https://www.kaliko.co/blog/how-to-weave-a-scarf-on-a-frame-loom Made of: beech wood Size: 25 inch x 21 inch x 2,5 inch (64cm x 53cm x 6cm) Warping area: 23 inch x 18,5 inch (58cm x 47 cm) Dent spacing: 0,35 inch (9mm) Tools: turning heddle bar, 2 shuttle sticks Shipping: 3-5 days to EU, 10-21 days to the US Optional: 4 metal clamps in two sizes to extend the warping area. More info here: https://www.etsy.com/listing/578869146/4-clasps-for-frame-looms-warp-extension?ref=shop_home_active_1 Made in Germany. Check my shop for other loom sizes and art supplies. https://www.etsy.com/shop/AniaGrzeszek?ref=seller-platform-mcnav§ion_id=22300185 All orders are shipped worldwide through the tracked mail. Shipping to the US takes approximately 10 days. If you're interested in a custom yarn pack, let me know and I will see what I can do. Visit https://www.kaliko.co/ Instagram https://www.instagram.com/kaliko_co/
