This weaving kit includes all the yarns needed to weave these Playing with Blocks Waffle Weave Towels designed by Jodi Ybarra for Handwoven May/June 2015. Get inspired using color and texture on your rigid heddle loom! Waffle weave is the ideal weave structure for kitchen towels with its super absorbent abilities. Weaving texture on your rigid heddle loom is very easy to achieve with just one pick up stick. Mix color blocks with waffle weave to get something new and different. Yarns: Aurora Earth 8/2 cotton in Mint, Blue and Duck. The three colors used are of the same value but also have enough contrast to make the color block squares prominently seen throughout the towels. Equipment needed: rigid heddle loom; 12 dent reed with 21.33” weaving width; 4 shuttles Finished Size: 16" x 24 1/2" per towel Instructions:  This project is featured in Handwoven May/June 2015.  You will need to purchase this magazine for the instructions if you don't already own a copy. Designed by Jodi Ybarra

Soft Plaid Recently, I started learning how to use the rigid heddle loom through Craftsy’s class Rigid Heddle Weaving by Angela Tong. If you are looking for a beginner class, or are needing a…

Choosing your first rigid heddle loom project can determine if you keep weaving in the future. Choose this free project to start weaving!

Those simple handwoven cotton dish towels were made using a rigid heddle loom. The pattern is easy and perfect for beginner weavers.

Esther Rodgers uses hand-manipulation techniques, interesting yarns, and a no-mistakes attitude to create her one-of-a-kind work. Allison explores Esther's philosophy of design in rigid-heddle weaving.

One of the best ways for rigid-heddle weavers to make floats is to use pick-up sticks. This allows weavers to make a third or fourth shed, and break the over/under configuration of plain weave. This post explains how to use pick-up sticks with your rigid heddle loom.

Only a bit of weaving today on the scarf warp - my back is bothering from way too much walking over the weekend on the coast........2 long walks each day, really long walks, and lots of bending over picking up shells off the beach. This scarf I used a teal weft, it's nice, not as eye popping as the black weft but I like it. Next scarf with be another one using the black weft.

I used 2 colorways of Noro Silk Garden sock yarn: a bold brightly colored one for the warp and a more subdued one for the weft. I’m not sure of the exact color numbers. 8 dent reed, 13” wide x 96...

I cannot remember exactly when is that I decided to try weaving, but I got attracted it progressively more in my quest for hand made skirts – I am not too fond of how knitted skirts look (tho…

Based in Ashburton, New Zealand, Ashford Handicrafts are the world’s leading manufacturers of Spinning Wheels, Weaving Looms and other textile equipment and supplies.

Weave a timeless plaid scarf with this PDF download rigid heddle weaving pattern. Suitable for beginners, it uses Gist Yarn Beam 3/2 organic cotton in a plain weave to create a lightweight, all-seasons accessory. Full instructions include recommended yarn, warp color order and threading. Pattern does not include instructions on how to warp or weave on a Rigid Heddle Loom. Please note that this is a digital download only - no physical pattern (or finished weaving) will be mailed.

This scarf is truly Lighter Than Air! Made with a fingering weight yarn and a lace weight Mohair and Silk blend, the 2 fibres combine to create a beautiful and striking texture. This pattern uses a single Glow Bundle by Handmaiden Yarns. If you cannot find a Glow bundle you can use 1 skein of Flyss (65% silk, 35% linen, 400m/100g) and 1 skein Super Kid Silk or Bloom (64% kid mohair, 36% silk, 400m/100g) or any other similar yarns. This pattern is suitable for an experienced beginner…if you have done several projects independently you can weave this scarf! And you’ll want one in every colour! Pattern requires a 20” rigid heddle, a 12.5 dent reed (if you have a Schacht loom a 12 dent reed will work) and 2 shuttles as well as all the usual weaving paraphernalia. Makes 1 scarf about 16” x 68” plus fringe.

A major difference in weaving with cotton rather than wool is managing tension. Cotton behaves differently to wool because it doesn’t have any natural stretch. When we think about the triangles created by the moving shed positions, we know that the warp threads must be relaxed enough to extend to th

Here's a quick tutorial on the making of the ultimate beginner's scarf on a rigid heddle loom. Starting weaving has never been that easy!

I love weaving on my Rigid Heddle Loom and I love making towels! Stripes, plaid, checkered and now waffle weave! You can’t imagine how excited I was when I realized that waffle weave can be a…

Rigid heddles are wonderful tools for bandweaving, once you know how to use them. Watch an exclusive video featuring Spin Off’s Kate Larson to learn how to warp and weave on a rigid heddle, no loom required!

Direct warping is a method of measuring the yarn for your warp at the same time that you are putting it on the loom. The usual method of direct warping - and there are many free videos on YouTube to show how to do this - is to clamp an vertical peg to a table (some use the top of a chair back) that is the distance from the apron dowel of your loom that the warp is to be long, and warp from the back of the loom tying your first warp thread to the apron dowel and then passing a loop of that warp through the first slot you have calculated to start your warp in to go across the loom the number of slots and holes also calculated. The heddle hook or slay hook is used to pick up the loop from the opposite side of the heddle, through the slot toward you and then catching the loop and pulling from back to front through that slot. This puts TWO warp threads (it is a loop that is going through) now on the cloth side of the heddle. You get up, take that loop in your fingers and walk it across the room to the warping peg and place the loop over and down on the vertical peg. You carry the yarn now back with you to the loom and then continue with the warp thread (placed under the loom on the warp side) and keep passing loops through. This is a simplified explanation of the process. Now, what can go wrong? Well, if you put too much tension on that warp loop as you carry it down to the peg, you transfer that tension to the warp on the peg when you put it on - and you may just find that the peg comes flying off the table - and all the warp becomes a tangled mess on the floor - sometimes impossible to get straightened out - and usually just as you were about to finish the warp. That is one thing that can go wrong. Another problem is that if the peg is not tall enough, you can run out of peg before you are finished and you will find yourself pushing it all down as best you can to make more room. And still another problem is that with the warp going across the loom to a single point - the peg - you create a V from peg to loom with the closed end of the V at the peg. The distance from each side of the loom to the middle will be at different lengths. So what can you do about this. I was a wonderful idea shared on one of the Weaving Facebook groups by a very smart lady, Ingrid Koch. She came up with a horizontal warping rod instead of a warping peg. As I recall, she used a curtain rod. I looked at her idea and decided to come up with something a little stronger and a way to secure it to a table. I decided to use a thick wood dowel - about 3/4" in diameter and three feet wide. My loom is 32" wide so the 36" long dowel was more than enough for a full warp across the loom. Here is a photo of what I came up with - What you see here are two stand brackets to hold the rod. The table they are on is a garden folding table from IKEA and I bought this table for this purpose - and to use for other weaving related tasks. With this table the brackets are held down to the surface of the table with a screw bolt passed up through the slot of the table through the bracket and tightened on with a wing nut - there is a washer both above and below the bracket. One bracket is cut shorter than the other, but the bottom of the slot that holds the dowel start at the same height from the table. The rod is level across sitting in the brackets. One side is short because this is the side of the rod that will be lifted to slide the warp loop onto. The other bracket is taller so that the dowel does not slip off as the other end is lifted up. In this photo you will see a permanent mark in the exact middle of the dowel. You know when you are half way across your heddle your warp should be right there at that mark on the dowel. There are two pieces of removable painters tape that mark the point the first loop should be placed next to - since I warp right to left - that would be the edge of the tape on the right and the spot the last loop is placed - that is the tape on the left. What you see on the right end (outside the bracket on the dowel) is a bubble level. I will explain why that is there later. So now instead of walking to a vertical peg, with this you walk to the left end of the dowel, lift that end enough to get the warp loop over, and drop the warp loop down at the dowel starting at the edge of the right piece of tape. Let's say I am warping a warp that is to be 104" each warp thread. That warp loop is now 104 inches away from the apron dowel going through the first slot I am warping. The next loop goes right next to that - again 104" long. This goes on for the full width of the warp. When you are done you will have a very straight warp from the warping dowel through the slots in the heddle to and across the apron dowel. This will be the same when the warp is wound onto the warp beam under tension. Every warp thread the same length. All nice and neatly lined up across the beam. If the warp is 12 inches across the apron dowel, it will be 12 inches across the warping rod. With this, it is hard for the warp to fly off. The brackets are securely attached - you could put these on any table edge using two soft faced wood clamps found at any home or tool store. You have a length of dowel to hold your warp as long as the number of slots you are warping through. You don't have to put a lot of tension on the warp - just enough to keep it from sagging. Let me step aside a moment to say this - when you are direct warping, your main goal is to measure the warp length and not to put tension on the warp. The tension will be put on by your helper when you wind on the warp on the warp beam. When you or your partner are taking the rod off the brackets when you are ready to wind the warp onto the back beam, lift it straight up off the brackets just high enough to clear them. You now need to get this to the front of the table. This is easy with this particular table that I picked as it is a gate leg table and what my wife does (who is my warping helper) is move the gate leg closed with her foot from the back of the table and the top comes down. With a table that you cannot do this with, move the rod forward to the front of the table(the tension will be lost but don't worry as the length will not change). Get around to the front and have your helper get hold of the rod and you move the table so that there is room to get tension back on the warp on the rod. If you remove the warp from the rod at the table, you can warp as you usually would do by tying a string or yarn around all of the warp, and then weight that and warp alone. If you have a helper and you leave the warp on the rod held level and straight as you wind on you will get a nice even warp each thread lying next to each other on your back beam. An alternative is to weight down the table. Leave the warp on the rod and the rod in the brackets, start winding on and let the loom be pulled toward the table and the rod as you wind. Get up and walk behind the loom as you do this. I mention here about hold the rod level. I find that this makes a difference in getting a good wind when using a rod like this. That mystery item on the right end of the rod in the first photo is a little bubble level. You can find these for a few dollars in Walmart in the Auto section where they have a section of RV supplies. It is a package of two and these little levels have peel and stick adhesive on the bottom. Stick it on the end of the rod and then whoever is holding the rod while you are winding on will see the bubble and if it is not in the middle the rod (dowel) is not level. Move that end up or down a little and the bubble goes to the middle. I added this when my wife said that it looked level as she was holding the dowel in her two hands but was not sure. I could see from across the room that it was way off. She can now see the level and adjust the dowel as needed. If you leave the warp on the dowel until it gets to the front of the loom, you will have a nice even wind on the beam - every warp thread lined up on the beam just as it will come off the beam while weaving. Thread your holes following the order and you will have no crossed warp threads coming off the warp beam! This works. I was not happy with the direct warp vertical peg. This solved all of the problems I was having with it! ADDENDUM: I have been asked about the size of the table. Here are the dimensions of the table - 28.5" high, 24.5" wide, with one gate leg up - 29.75" long, and with the two gate legs up - 51.75" long. The table is heavy and I purposely looked for a heavy table so that the table would not move when warping. The slats in the top make it easy to anchor the brackets. This table from IKEA is an outdoor table - available during the Spring and summer months.This link will bring you to the IKEA page for this table (as long as IKEA still offers this table) - https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/aepplaroe-gateleg-table-outdoor-brown-stained-brown-50208535/

This page is all about the weaving of Houndstooth dishtowels with 8/4 cotton. It covers everything you need to know about their pattern.

This page is all about the weaving of Houndstooth dishtowels with 8/4 cotton. It covers everything you need to know about their pattern.

This beginner's guide to rigid heddle loom vocabulary will help new weavers understand difficult weaving terms such as warp, weft, DPI and more!

Rigid Heddle loom patterns that will help you increase your weaving skills while creating beautiful garments and accessories for you and your home.

I have done a double width weaving project! It was a bit hard at the beginning, but it became easier and more fun later. I think that my next double weaving project will go more smoothly. I’l…

My very first project on my new rigid heddle loom! I so enjoyed learning this new skill - here are a collection of tips as well as links to tutorials I found helpful as I made my first project!

Using a pick-up stick with a rigid heddle loom can create visually and physically interesting weavings. Learn how to use pick-up sticks!

I cannot remember exactly when is that I decided to try weaving, but I got attracted it progressively more in my quest for hand made skirts – I am not too fond of how knitted skirts look (tho…

Weave Quarterly is an ongoing subscription series that connects weavers with fiber artists, offering a window into their studio practices through exclusive patterns and curated content. Subscribers will receive one box per quarter containing all of the yarn (4-6 cones of Gist Yarn), a welcome letter about the project, and a digital pattern. In addition, the designers will share bonus content which may include their inspiration and processes, relevant tutorials (video or photos) and potential additional coordinating projects that can be made with leftover yarn. We will feature a new designer every three boxes, and subscribers will continue to receive boxes unless they cancel their subscription. Weave Quarterly will feature a range of projects over time, including scarves, shawls, pillows, rugs, towels, and other home textiles. Currently, Weave Quarterly: Rigid Heddle is featuring the work of Yun-Hsuan Chang in a collection titled Picnic Season.  Picnic Season  explores the spirit of picnics, where a picnic isn't just a meal, but a celebration. Through Yun-Hsuan’s mingling of stripes and proportion, color and texture, these lovingly-designed dining linens become an ode to the beauty of togetherness under the open sky. While every project is Plain Weave, the variations given for each, including to which side they are hemmed, expand the design possibilities such that each individual piece is more unique than uniform. Yun-Hsuan’s projects will ship in March, June, and September of 2024.  FAQ What type of equipment do I need for this? All Weave Quarterly projects are designed for looms with at least 24” of weaving width. Projects will vary in size, but never exceed 24”. Reed sizes will vary, so we recommend having a variety in your studio, along with a couple of boat shuttles, a pack of bobbins, and a couple of pick-up sticks. Most of our rigid heddle patterns require a 10 or 12-12.5 dent heddle, and we will let you know ahead of time if another size is required. How does the subscription box work? When you sign up, you will be charged $135 + shipping. You will receive the pattern for the current project by email, and the corresponding yarn for that project will arrive in the mail. You will then fall into the quarterly billing schedule for future boxes. Each quarter, right after your card is charged, you will receive the next pattern by email, and the corresponding yarns will ship within 2 weeks of your card being charged. What yarn is included in each box? Each box is filled with a generous selection of our in-house yarn lines (Duet, Mallo, Beam, Array, Sero, and Ode). We design our in-house yarn lines especially for weavers from 100% natural fibers. Throughout the course of your subscription, you can expect to receive yarn that is cotton, wool, linen, and alpaca. You will have enough yarn to complete your project, and often have some leftover for future projects.  Do you charge shipping? We charge $11.50 for shipping in the Continental US. For pricing to Alaska, Hawaii, and internationally, just add the box to checkout, click on the cart page, scroll down, and enter your zip code to calculate the shipping. Do you ship internationally? We sure do! Unfortunately due to Brexit we are not currently able to ship subscription boxes to the UK, but we ship to the rest of the world. Please note that international customers are responsible to pay for all customs and duties your country charges. See above for information about shipping costs. We strongly encourage you to find one or a few weaving friends in your home country, and to order all together to save on shipping costs and qualify for flat rate shipping! To do this, choose one person to purchase and pay for the subscription, and have them check out with 2 (or more) subscription boxes at one time. Can I cancel my subscription? We think you’re going to enjoy it so much you won’t want to! But yes, if you decide this isn’t right for you for any reason, you are welcome to pause or cancel your subscription at any time. Please note: if you cancel and later resubscribe, you will not receive the pattern(s) you missed while you were unsubscribed. Can I select different colors? The designer has carefully selected the colorway as shown. We are not currently offering an alternate colorway. After you weave your projects with these colors, you are encouraged to weave them again with different colors from your stash. Can I purchase the pattern without the subscription box? No, these patterns are currently only available as part of the subscription purchase. Can I do these patterns as a beginner? These patterns are great for an adventurous beginner. We don’t recommend these for your very first projects, but once you have a few projects under your belt you can certainly enjoy this subscription box. Can I share the patterns with my friends? No. Your purchase of the subscription box includes your purchase of the pattern, and the pattern is exclusive for subscribers. Please don’t share it! Can I use a gift certificate to purchase a subscription box? Sorry, our subscription software isn't compatible with our gift cards. Please save those for a future purchase. My question isn't answered here! Please reach out to [email protected] and we'll help you out.

In this tutorial, I am weaving a spring scarf using tencel on my rigid heddle loom. I also explain how to double the warp threads.

Learn how I'm planning my warp pattern using a spreadsheet. It’s an easy way to design patterns for rigid heddle loom projects.

Weaving the softest baby boy blanket inspired by the sea. This blanket can be easily done on a rigid heddle loom.

Here's a quick tutorial on the making of the ultimate beginner's scarf on a rigid heddle loom. Starting weaving has never been that easy!

Here's a quick tutorial on the making of the ultimate beginner's scarf on a rigid heddle loom. Starting weaving has never been that easy!

This weaving kit includes all the yarns needed to weave these towels that were designed by Jodi Ybarra for Weaving Through the Seasons Towel Collection. When days grow short, and nights get cold you know it’s time for spooks and treats. Ghosts, goblins, witches and warlocks may be lurking, but you will be weaving festive Halloween inspired towels that are sure to be a treat. Weave structure: plain weave with pick up accents Yarns: Aurora Earth 8/2 cotton Equipment needed: Rigid Heddle Loom; 22” weaving width; 10 dent reed; 2 stick shuttles Finished size: 18 ½“x 28” each towel hemmed Instructions: Complete, step-by-step instructions included with kit. Find these towels in our Weaving Through the Seasons Kit of the Month Club Photo by Jessica Ybarra

Here's an easy way to thread your rigid heddle. This is a favourite trick of The Rogue Weaver and makes threading the heddle easy and fast!