I tested 7 quilt as you go methods to find the perfect method with no hand-sewing! I tried versions with sashing and with no sashing.
Just finished my second butterfly quilt (Stacy, you're brilliant--love this pattern !). Are you getting sick of it yet? Cause I'm not. Afte...
I tested 7 quilt as you go methods to find the perfect method with no hand-sewing! I tried versions with sashing and with no sashing.
Want to give your quilting some added texture and depth? Try machine quilting with 12 wt. thread! It's not difficult, but there are 5 secrets you must know.
Pojagi seam allowances are totally different from quilting seam allowances. This is why you don't want to carry over point matching tendencies to pojagi.
Short answer is YES, you can quilt with a regular sewing machine. Learn how to master quilting with your sewing machine today!
(FMQ on domestic machine) Learn how to avoid unintended pleats and folds when free motion quilting on a domestic machine. The tips are learned from my own experience. Try it and see for yourself - it worked for me, I no longer have the problem of having pleats and folds using this technique.
If you don’t have a 60 degree ruler but your ruler or your mat has 60 degree markings, this is how you can cut equilateral triangles. How to cut equilateral triangles with a regular ruler This 2 minut
This post is for all my quilting friends and readers who think that quilting on a regular sewing machine is either 1) boring, because al...
So you've picked a quilt pattern, pulled the perfect fabrics, mastered the 1/4" seam allowance, completed a quilt top, and layered + basted your project, now what? Today I'm going to share some helpful straight-line quilting tips & techniques so that you can finish any quilt project (large or small) on your home machine. Straight-line quilting is my favorite. If you've been a reader for any amount of time, you've probably already figured that out. It gives such a fresh & modern feel and can be used in so many different projects and patterns. Straight-line quilting also creates a great texture, especially when washed --- yummy! Plus there's something so enjoyable + soothing about stitching straight-lines, it's so therapeutic! DS Picnic + Fairgrounds Quilt one // a good baste Making sure your quilt or project is properly basted is one of the key elements to a successful & enjoyable quilting experience, not just straight-line quilting! I prefer to spray baste all of my quilts using 505 Spray for two reasons: [1] it's faster than pin basting, which equals more quilting & sewing time! and [2] i've found that it eliminates shifting when quilting. I recommend using a spray baste product on a hard + washable surface (ie. the kitchen floor) because it does result in a little leftover residue, nothing a little warm water & soap can't handle! Also make sure you are in a well ventilated area -- open a window! Firefly Quilt & Tutorial two // new needle I like to start every new sewing & quilting project with a new needle and recommend you do too! I use a Schmetz Universal Needle size 80/12 for all of my piecing and quilting. Find a needle that works for you & your machine and then stick with it. XO Quilt & Tutorial three // walking foot A walking foot is a must have -- I wouldn't straight-line quilt without one! A walking foot has feed dogs that, along with machine's lower feed dogs, help evenly pull the quilt through the sewing machine. Check with your specific machine dealer & manual for more information on a walking foot. Granny Square Quilt four // “needle-down” position If your sewing machine has a "needle-down" position, use it! This setting makes sure the needle stops in the "needle-down" position every time you take your foot off the pedal. It really helps keep a straight-line every time you need to start & stop quilting -- ie. re-adjusting & thread change. His + Her Christmas Stockings five // thread Thread selection can really effect your straight-line quilting results. I like to use 50 wt. Aurifil thread in all of my sewing & quilting projects. It's a fine, cotton thread that quilts up wonderfully -- I really like how it blends into the fabric. Keep in mind each sewing machine is different, so the thread that works on my machine may not work as well on yours. Play around with a few different types + brands until you find a thread you like! x and + Quilt six // slow & steady This step is key -- slow & steady wins the race. I've found that a slow and steady pace helps to keep the quilting lines straight and even. Remember to enjoy the process of quilting, each and every step! 241 Tote seven // marking If you aren't comfortable quilting straight-lines without a guide, don't worry! Products like FriXion pens or even painters tape can help make marking your project fast and easy. Once you get going, try using the edge of your walking foot as a guide. I hope that you find these straight-line quilting tips & techniques helpful. Remember that it's not about achieving "perfect" straight lines -- there's no such thing! It's all about enjoying the process, trying new things, and feeling confident & enjoying your talent. xo, Megan
I tested 7 quilt as you go methods to find the perfect method with no hand-sewing! I tried versions with sashing and with no sashing.
Watch this video tutorial to learn how to make elaborate quilting designs using Straight Line Echo Quilting. This free-motion quilting technique involves quilting parallel lines that "echo" one another all across the quilt. This kind of quilting can really emphasize certain shapes, motifs, or themes in a quilt. Use it to call out interesting patchwork patterns or set off fussy-cut bits of fabric.
Quilting with a sewing machine isn't an impossible task since quilting and sewing machines are mostly similar. The truth is, they are both sewing machines.
A postage stamp quilt is the perfect way to use up fabric scraps. Use it as a leader ender project or set down and sew it all at once.
The Tilly Gilet features a quilted body, scoop neck and double front tie closure with a regular fit through the body. Now available in a navy denim colour way. 80% Cotton 20% Tencel Filling: 100% Polyester Standard length Regular fit Double tie front Round neck Sleeveless gilet Quilted fabric Select your normal size
Short answer is YES, you can quilt with a regular sewing machine. Learn how to master quilting with your sewing machine today!
Looking for some quilting inspiration? Try these Nine Patch block ideas.
Quilting with a sewing machine isn't an impossible task since quilting and sewing machines are mostly similar. The truth is, they are both sewing machines.
Great Tutorial for Beginners – Larger Stitches Show Best! Most quilters, whether they hand quilt or not, deeply appreciate the fine quilts produced by those who do. There’s just something about hand quilting that makes quilts stand out over their machine-quilted counterparts. Quality hand quilting is all about the stitch size and how even the …
Quilt basting is essential to prepare your project for quilting. Learn how to make a quilt sandwich and discover 4 ways how to baste a quilt.
Scrappy Pinwheel in a Square. Three challenges in one! I’m so excited to share this new block with you all! Making a pinwheel block is a challenge, but then so is a square in a square block, – cutting all those extra triangles and then getting them lined up. More often than not these blocks … Continue reading Scrappy Pinwheel in a Square →
Most quilters find the binding step to be the most time-consuming part of making a quilt but it doesn't have to be if you use your sewing machine. This method is a popular way to finish a quilt that both saves time (compared to hand sewing) and completes the quilt by giving it a nicely finished border edge. We personally sew all of our binding using a sewing machine as it's quick and easy and to be honest, we really don't like hand sewing all that much. This tutorial goes over the basics of quilt binding plus it illustrates the
Happy Blogiversary to Pink Doxies! Six years of color-filled posts shared with friends and family, laughter, tears, and lots and lots of love! Thank you all for being part of my world, and letting me into yours. I am truly blessed! I have to say it. Time is flying by! It's been 6 years since my first post, and though I'm still a quilter, I'm a changed quilter now. (Maybe a butterfly quilt was more than apropos.) Most of my time is spent longarm quilting for others, and I've been especially swamped during the recent Covid-19 period. I've been so tickled just seeing the range of gorgeous quilts come into my studio, and love that I get to add my ideas to them. Like magic, I transform the top, back, and batting into the actual quilt! Well, not quite that fast, but it's still a pretty cool job, I admit. This beautiful applique quilt is a pattern called Butterflies by Edyta Sitar made by local quilter Rita Darr. The colors are sublime, but I barely noticed them until I was done with the quilting. To me, it was one butterfly at a time, working my way through, and focusing on each shape. Pebbles and swirls, pebbles and swirls, and watch for those antennae! When I was finished, I stood back to take it all in. Only then could I say, "Wow!" It's often that I need to sort out the details before I can enjoy the big picture. Work before play? Perhaps. The Catch Up I've been a busy bee behind the scenes through July, and beg forgiveness for not sharing with you. Our new solitary lifestyles have forced each of us to evaluate how we live, and I've mulled over many areas. Realizing that Covid was here to stay meant not having a stream of in-person sewing days for a while or really knowing when they might resume at all. The studio has slowly been converted from a gathering space to a recording space. I'm moving toward connecting and teaching digitally vs. in person, and oh, what a challenge that actually is! Maybe you'll pop in here one day soon, and see a video link to the day's blog content. There have been hours of practice involved, and one day I'll have to actually publish something. Terrifying! Don't you feel like we've all had to grow so much in the past months? Not unlike a caterpillar safely wrapped in a self-made cocoon, each of us has changed. Breaking out, and spreading our wings is in our reach. How each of us does this depends on our own needs, but we still need to think of ways to connect with other people, and find things that feed our souls. I hope you you are actively thinking of ways to support yourself emotionally as well as physically. Tune in to your senses, and follow your instincts. Find your flower. Come on, Doxie girls. Let's go sew.
I taught a class for my local guild just before all the health issues began in May. I shared their class progress here in this post. One student, Joan, and I emailed back and forth a few times a
Using invisible thread can be tricky when working on a quilt project. This video gives a few helpful tips on when to use the thread and the type you should look for.
I hope that you enjoy snuggling with your quilt while hand-stitching a binding to your quilt - it's still one of my favorite parts of quilting.
To go with the video tutorial I've put together a cheat sheet. It details my method of making pinwheels along with a handy reference chart with the quilt math to make pinwheels in all sorts of sizes. You can download a PDF version of the cheat sheet by clicking here. You can also 'Pin" the
Flange Quilt Binding is a great method for binding a quilt! Using Flange binding allows you to sew the binding on the quilt entirely by machine! It saves so much […]
Free motion quilting tips- tips that make your free motion quilting easier and fun.
Today let's sew together this cute Cluster of Stars quilt block! While you could certainly just make little 6" Ohio Star blocks, the method of construction I'm going to show you makes for fewer seams. The traditional coloring for this block is to only use two colors - a light and a dark of the same color.
Learn how to do free motion quilting using a regular home sewing machine. With the technique, you can quilt large quilt using a regular home sewing machine.
Using invisible thread can be tricky when working on a quilt project. This video gives a few helpful tips on when to use the thread and the type you should look for.
Learn how to hand quilt with this expert guide from Sarah Fielke.
Straight line quilting is fast and fantastic. Come to Bonjour Quilts for a ton of straight line quilting designs and tips you can use today.
It is not always easy to achieve good straight line machine quilting results. There is usually a wiggle or a pucker, or some other kind of misstep. I often end up straying to the left or the righ…
Today is brought to you by the Letter S and "Sharks Teeth." Confused as to where I'm heading with this? Sharks Teeth is a sewing technique that involves creating blind tucks in fabric, then snipping the tucks in intervals before folding in the raw edges created and sewing them in place. Hmmmmm....maybe it will just be easier to show you. Photos coming in the next couple of hours. I'm sewing now. :) :) Sharks Teeth Tutorial Step 1 - Create a series of blind tucks 3/4 inches wide. Each row should just meet the next row. How many tucks to do depends upon your design. For this skirt, I decided to do three rows. Step 2 - Slash the tucks at intervals 1.5 inches apart, cutting up to, but not past the seamline. Alternate the slashes so that the cuts on one row meet the middle of the "tooth" on the next. It should resemble the way bricks are laid. Step 3 - Turn the cut edges to the back of the "tooth" so that the raw edges meet in the middle, folding at a 45 degree angle. Press neatly. Repeat for all teeth. Step 4 - To catch and hold the folds in place, restitch the horizontal tuck seam in a wide zigzag being sure to catch the raw edges underneath the tooth. I used a decorative tulip stitch on this skirt. It is headed to Guatemala as part of The Hundred Skirt Project. I was concerned that the shark teeth be durable to hold up to the more aggressive laundering they will receive at the orphanage (the girls sometimes do their own laundry using concrete washboards!). Step 5 - Press teeth and assemble garment. You can see an example of a child's dress with a Sharks Teeth bodice here.
Free motion quilting is still something I get asked about the most. It's so simple, and also so daunting at the same time! I'm DEFINITELY not an expert, and don't look too close at my stitches, but good news....it doesn't have to be perfect, AND it's a great stress reliever! ;) While I was quilting...Read More
For my regular blog readers, this tutorial is going to come a little from left field. This year, I have found myself in the position of teaching quilting classes. Now, I have made one or two quilts in my time, but I never even found out how proper quilters go about this whilst I was making them... so I have had to learn on the run. In my classes, we have been exploring quilt-as-you go techniques. I wanted to find a better way of joining the blocks together. I have read quite a few online tutorials, but they mostly seemed a little clumsy. So I came up with my own way (this is not to say that nobody else has done it this way...but I have not seen it done quite like this). Start with your two blocks to be joined. They should already be quilted to the wadding and backing. The backing should extend beyond your block about 1 inch (at least on one of the blocks). The quilting should stop before the edge, probably no closer than about an inch from the edge of the block. You can see that I have not washed out the marker I used to draw my quilting lines. Square and trim one of the blocks. On the first block, you want to trim the block, wadding and backing all to the same size. Here it is, all trimmed up. You can put this aside for the time being. On the other block, you need to fold the backing out of the way...which is why you can't quilt all the way to the edge of the block. Then square and trim the side of the block and the wadding. On that same block, we want to trim the wadding back further. We want the wadding to be trimmed 1/2 inch smaller than the block. (From this point on, you need to excuse my dirty fingernails...I got home from camping at lunch time and haven't cleaned them yet). This is a little tricky, and we don't want anyone to cut themselves with the rotary cutter. I used pattern weights to hold the top layer back whilst I cut the wadding. Now unfold the backing so that it can be trimmed. An experienced and precise quilter could probably trim the backing to 1/2 inch bigger than the block. My students are generally beginners and are still developing their sewing accuracy, and I like to allow a little for turn of cloth, so I trimmed to 5/8 inch larger than my block. So, here you can see the trimmed block. The wadding is 1/2 in smaller than the block and the backing extends 5/8 inch beyond the block. Now, for the ever-so-slightly tricky bit. Line up the edge of the backing with the edge of the wadding and stitch together with a 1/4 inch seam. I don't often use pins, but my students love to use them. If you like pins, you can pin to your heart's content before stitching. Some of the students are able to use their walking foot for this step. Others have a walking foot that is difficult to use for 1/4 inch seams, and so switch over to their 1/4 inch foot for this. It really depends on your machine and foot. If you can't use your walking foot, go slowly and use use good holding techniques to overcome the effects of the feed dogs. Once you have stitched the backing to the wadding, press the backing so that it forms a fold that sticks out past the wadding. Take your time to smooth the backing all the way from the stitching line. This is easier than trying to turn under an accurate seam allowance later. Now get your first block (the one we trimmed first and put aside). Put it right sides together with the second block. My blocks are random blocks, so I do not need to match any seams...but if you do, take care to match any seams on the two blocks at this point. The two blocks are then stitched together with a 1/4 inch seam. We are stitching through all 3 layers of the first block (top, wadding and backing) and the top layer of the second block...so through 4 layers altogether. Again, your choice as to whether you use a walking foot or 1/4 inch foot. You will need to hold the folded backing edge of the second block out of the way whilst you do this. All stitched together. Open out the blocks. Everything should sit nicely, with no lumpy overlap of wadding. Now you can press the folded backing of the second block over the join. There are several ways you can finish up from here. The neatest is probably hand stitching the fold down, the same way you would hand stitch the quilt binding. Another option is to machine quilt a straight line. If you do this from the back, the line is not likely to end up in the ditch on the front...but some of my students like to do this anyway. You could stitch in the ditch from the front, and because we allowed that extra 1/8 inch when trimming the second backing, it should, in theory, catch the fold at the back. Me, I like to finish quickly and get back to my dressmaking, so I used a decorative patchwork stitch from the front, which covers a few sins. Here is the back view. If you secure the backs before sewing the next block, you wont be able to stitch all the way to the end because you will need to be able to fold the backing back when trimming ready to attach the next block...no matter if you have...a few moments with a quick unpick will sort that out. Happy quilting, xx
Get festive with this 3-fabric Criss Cross Christmas quilt pattern. Cozy, classic, and perfect for holiday crafting! Pattern includes 10 different sizes!
