by Virginia Solomon, First published for the May/June 2013 issue of Finery The fashionable Regency lady would not feel her dress is complete without the appropriate accoutrements that will make your ensemble part of the Bon Ton. There are many accessories you could add to your ensemble for different occasions; here is an overview of the most vital of Regency […]

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1815 saw the completion of Ackermann's Repository - Series 1. The British public of Regency England loved this publication and it would remain a resounding success for many years to come as they continued with series 2 and series 3 till their final issue in Dec 1828. With this post I will have shown all the fashion plates from Ackermann's series 1 and I hope you will keep checking back in as I post the Regency fashion plates for Series 2 and 3 in future posts. This is one of my favorite 1815 Ackermann's Fashion plates - plate 23 Description of Fashion plates 22 & 23 - Plate 23 is for the above shown Walking Dress A bit about Ackermann's Ackermann's Repository of Arts, Literature, Commerce, Manufacturers, Fashion and Politics. was a popular publications in England from 1809-1829. (The 1829 issues were printed as "Ackermann's Repository of Fashion".) Ackermann's listed a wide variety of current subject matters to entertain the masses of Regency England. There were political commentaries, poetry, short stories, current events, special exhibit information, stock and commerce reports and other interesting tidbits in its pages. Each issue also contained wonderful color illustrations showing fashions, home decor, public places of interest, architecture and a variety of items that would be of interest to their readers. My favorites are the Fashion Plates and there were usually 2 in each monthly issue. During the twenty year run of this monthly publication, Ackermann's made specially bound volumes available for those who were collecting the issues. These "bound" book versions consisted of a 2 volume set for each year it was published. There were a total of 3 series in that 20 year period. Series 1 began in Jan 1809 (volume 1) and ended with the Dec issue (volume 14) in 1815. Series 2 began in Jan 1816 and ended with the Dec issue in 1822. Series 3 began in Jan 1823 and ended with the final issue in Dec 1828 Ackermann's Repository "Bound" Series 1 ran from 1809 - 1815 with a total of 14 Volumes for Series 1 (click on each year below to be taken to that post) Series 1 - Vol 1 & 2 - 1809 Series 1 - Vol 3 & 4 - 1810 Series 1 - Vol 5 & 6 - 1811 Series 1 - Vol 7 & 8 - 1812 Series 1 - Vol 9 & 10 - 1813 Series 1 - Vol 11 & 12 - 1814 Series 1 - Vol 13 & 14 - 1815 Today I am thrilled to be completing Ackermann's Series 1 by posting the fashion plates for the year 1815. Series 1 Vol 13 was Jan - June 1815 Series 1 Vol 14 was July - Dec 1815 Enjoy! Ackermann's Repository 1815 Fashion Plates 1815 - Ackermann's Repository Series1 Vol 13 - January Issue 1815 - Ackermann's Repository Series1 Vol 13 - January Issue 1815 - Ackermann's Repository Series1 Vol 13 - February Issue 1815 - Ackermann's Repository Series1 Vol 13 - February Issue 1815 - Ackermann's Repository Series1 Vol 13 - March Issue 1815 - Ackermann's Repository Series1 Vol 13 - March Issue 1815 - Ackermann's Repository Series1 Vol 13 - April Issue 1815 - Ackermann's Repository Series1 Vol 13 - April Issue 1815 - Ackermann's Repository Series1 Vol 13 - May Issue 1815 - Ackermann's Repository Series1 Vol 13 - May Issue 1815 - Ackermann's Repository Series1 Vol 13 - June Issue 1815 - Ackermann's Repository Series1 Vol 13 - June Issue 1815 - Ackermann's Repository Series1 Vol 14 - July Issue 1815 - Ackermann's Repository Series1 Vol 14 - July Issue 1815 - Ackermann's Repository Series1 Vol 14 - August Issue 1815 - Ackermann's Repository Series1 Vol 14 - August Issue 1815 - Ackermann's Repository Series1 Vol 14 - September Issue 1815 - Ackermann's Repository Series1 Vol 14 - September Issue 1815 - Ackermann's Repository Series1 Vol 14 - October Issue 1815 - Ackermann's Repository Series1 Vol 14 - October Issue 1815 - Ackermann's Repository Series1 Vol 14 - November Issue 1815 - Ackermann's Repository Series1 Vol 14 - November Issue 1815 - Ackermann's Repository Series1 Vol 14 - December Issue 1815 - Ackermann's Repository Series1 Vol 14 - December Issue I hope you have enjoyed seeing all the fun fashions in this first series of Ackermann's Repository Regency prints and that you will continue to drop in as I post more fashions from the Series 2 and then Series 3 issues of Ackermann's Repository. Till Next time... Thanks for visiting me here at EKDuncan.blogspot.com If you have enjoyed seeing these images from Ackermann's Repository and would like the opportunity to see and read an original for yourself they are are available on line at www.archive.org Click HERE then choose the volume you are interested in. You can then see and read them online or download them to your computer for future reference. Enjoy!

Hello, lovely fiber artists! 🌸 Welcome back to the Cactus Lady Creation blog. If you're as enchanted by the world of Bridgerton as I am, you're in for a treat. Today, we're diving into the elegance and charm of the Regency era with some inspired crochet patterns that will transport you straight into the heart of high s

Have you ever watched "Bridgerton" and marveled at the stunning hairstyles that seem to whisk us back to the opulent Regency era? Ever wondered how to recreate those elaborate updos and soft, romantic curls for

This is my favorite Ackermann's Repository fashion plate for 1811 This is my 3rd installment of fashion plates from Ackermann's Repository - Regency era magazine. Ackermann's Repository of Arts, Literature, Commerce, Manufacturers, Fashion and Politics. was a popular publications in England from 1809-1829. (The 1829 issues were printed as "Ackermann's Repository of Fashion".) I have found the articles and illustrations to be a fascinating glimpse into that time period. One of my favorite ongoing series in the magazine are the fashion plates. Each monthly issue usually included 2 Fashion plates, giving on average a total of 24 Fashion plates for the year. Though the magazine was published monthly; specially bound volumes were available from Ackermann's. These "bound" book versions, consisted of a 2 volume set for each year it was in publication. Ackermann's Repository "Bound" Series 1 ran from 1809 - 1815 with a total of 14 Volumes for Series 1 Series 1 Vol 1 was Jan - June 1809 Series 1 Vol 2 was July - Dec 1809 Series 1 Vol 3 was Jan - June 1810 Series 1 Vol 4 was July - Dec 1810 Series 1 Vol 5 was Jan - June 1811 Series 1 Vol 6 was July - Dec 1811 Series 1 Vol 7 was Jan - June 1812 Series 1 Vol 8 was July - Dec 1812 Series 1 Vol 9 was Jan - June 1813 Series 1 Vol 10 was July - Dec 1813 Series 1 Vol 11 was Jan - June 1814 Series 1 Vol 12 was July - Dec 1814 Series 1 Vol 13 was Jan - June 1815 Series 1 Vol 14 was July - Dec 1815 Today I will be posting the fashion plates for the year 1811. Series 1 Vol 5 was Jan - June 1811 Series 1 Vol 6 was July - Dec 1811 I hope you enjoy! Ackermann's Repository 1811 Fashion Plates 1811 - Ackermann's Repository Series1 Vol 5 - January Issue 1811 - Ackermann's Repository Series1 Vol 5 - January Issue 1811 - Ackermann's Repository Series1 Vol 5 - February Issue 1811 - Ackermann's Repository Series1 Vol 5 - February Issue 1811 - Ackermann's Repository Series1 Vol 5 - March Issue 1811 - Ackermann's Repository Series1 Vol 5 - March Issue 1811 - Ackermann's Repository Series1 Vol 5 - April Issue 1811 - Ackermann's Repository Series1 Vol 5 - April Issue 1811 - Ackermann's Repository Series1 Vol 5 - May Issue 1811 - Ackermann's Repository Series1 Vol 5 - May Issue 1811 - Ackermann's Repository Series1 Vol 5 - June Issue 1811 - Ackermann's Repository Series1 Vol 5 - June Issue 1811 - Ackermann's Repository Series1 Vol 6 - July Issue 1811 - Ackermann's Repository Series1 Vol 6 - July Issue 1811 - Ackermann's Repository Series1 Vol 6 - August Issue 1811 - Ackermann's Repository Series1 Vol 6 - August Issue 1811 - Ackermann's Repository Series1 Vol 6 - September Issue 1811 - Ackermann's Repository Series1 Vol 6 - September Issue 1811 - Ackermann's Repository Series1 Vol 6 - October Issue 1811 - Ackermann's Repository Series1 Vol 6 - October Issue 1811 - Ackermann's Repository Series1 Vol 6 - November Issue 1811 - Ackermann's Repository Series1 Vol 6 - November Issue 1811 - Ackermann's Repository Series1 Vol 6 - December Issue 1811 - Ackermann's Repository Series1 Vol 6 - December Issue Oh how I love the fashions of this time period. Yes, I know they could be uncomfortable and hot at times; but there still is something so romantic about all the lush fabrics, laces and frilly undergarments. Here are a few description of the 1811 Ackermann fashion plates, for those of you who want just a bit more of this era. Descriptions of the November 1811 Dresses Descriptions for the December 1811 Dresses I hope you have enjoyed viewing Ackermann's Repository fashion plates for 1811. Check back soon for the next installment of Ackermann's Repository - 1812 Fashion plates. Well, I'm off to read a Regency Romance, so till next time. Thanks for visiting me here at EKDuncan.blogspot.com If you have enjoyed seeing these images from Ackermann's Repository and would like the opportunity to see and read an original for yourself they are are available on line at www.archive.org Click HERE then choose the volume you are interested in. You can then see and read them online or download them to your computer for future reference. Enjoy!

Ackermann's Repository was a popular British publication of the Regency period and its monthly issues were in distribution from January 1809 till its final issue on December 1828. Fortunately for us, Ackermann's Repository was published by a printing house that specialized in producing bound volumes intended for reference and private libraries. Had this just been a fashion magazine, I believe many of the amazing plates would have vanished over time; however since this publication was a literary, economic, political, architectural,as well as a fashion publication; the pages of Ackermann's was treated as a reference item and several full collections of these bound volumes still exist today. (In 1829 Ackermann's had a fashion only publication - "Ackermann's Repository of Fashion".) Ackermann's was know in its day as one of the premier print shops and produced many illustrated book series and lithographs during it's time. From the beginning "The Repository of Arts, Literature, Commerce, Manufactures, Fashions, and Politics" as it was formally called was intended to be bound into books even though it was available as a monthly magazine as well. This is why you see the odd numbering system on the illustrated plates. At the end of each year, that years issues were available as a 2 volume set and could be purchased in a variety of binding options directly from Ackermann's or from several of the other binding houses or book sellers in London. A subscriber also had the option of having their individual issues custom bound to order. It's just so interesting how things were done 200 years ago. 1823 was the start of Series 3 When these were later bound into their 2 volume sets. Jan - Jun 1823 were part of Series 3 Volume 1 July - Dec 1823 were part of Series 3 Volume 2 1823 would have volumes 3&4 1824 would have volumes 5&6 and so on and so forth till the series was completed At the end of the 20 years of Ackermann's Repository there were 40 bound book volumes. According to the information I've found up to 1,000 bound volumes of Ackermann's Repository were sold per year. I've yet to find a number of how many issues of each magazine were sold per month; however it must have been a lucrative venture for it to have been published in both formats for a twenty year period of time. My pick of the 1823 Ackermann's Repository Fashions I have been posting all the lovely fashion plates from the pages of Ackermann's and continue now with Series 3 which ran from January 1823 - December 1828. These fashion would be considered late Regency and can be most easily identified by the more form fitting bodices, dropping waistlines and fuller skirt bottoms. Today I will be posting the fashions for 1823 and I hope you enjoy seeing them. This is what the cover page for Series 3 Vol 1 (Jan - June) 1823 looked like in the bound book form Ackermann's Repository 1823 Fashion Plates 1823 - Ackermann's Repository Series 3 Vol 1 - January Issue 1823 - Ackermann's Repository Series 3 Vol 1 - January Issue 1823 - Ackermann's Repository Series 3 Vol 1 - February Issue 1823 - Ackermann's Repository Series 3 Vol 1 - February Issue 1823 - Ackermann's Repository Series 3 Vol 1 - March Issue 1823 - Ackermann's Repository Series 3 Vol 1 - March Issue 1823 - Ackermann's Repository Series 3 Vol 1 - April Issue 1823 - Ackermann's Repository Series 3 Vol 1 - April Issue 1823 - Ackermann's Repository Series 3 Vol 1 - May Issue 1823 - Ackermann's Repository Series 3 Vol 1 - May Issue 1823 - Ackermann's Repository Series 3 Vol 1 - June Issue 1823 - Ackermann's Repository Series 3 Vol 1 - June Issue This is what the cover page for Series 3 Vol 2 (July - Dec) 1823 looked like in the bound book form 1823 - Ackermann's Repository Series 3 Vol 2 - July Issue 1823 - Ackermann's Repository Series 3 Vol 2 - July Issue 1823 - Ackermann's Repository Series 3 Vol 2 - August Issue 1823 - Ackermann's Repository Series 3 Vol 2 - August Issue 1823 - Ackermann's Repository Series 3 Vol 2 - September Issue 1823 - Ackermann's Repository Series 3 Vol 2 - September Issue 1823 - Ackermann's Repository Series 3 Vol 2 - October Issue 1823 - Ackermann's Repository Series 3 Vol 2 - October Issue 1823 - Ackermann's Repository Series 3 Vol 2 - November Issue 1823 - Ackermann's Repository Series 3 Vol 2 - November Issue 1823 - Ackermann's Repository Series 3 Vol 2 - December Issue 1823 - Ackermann's Repository Series 3 Vol 2 - December Issue ************* For those of you who want a bit more than to see the pretty fashions; here are the fashion descriptions from the November 1823 issue. I though I'd show this one since it included descriptions of the fashion plate showing hats. You will notice I left the pages intact and did not crop out the extra bits from the previous article that precedes the fashion articles; nor did I remove the beginning of the article that followed the fashions. This is so you can see how the articles ran one into the other and how they can jump from one topic to the next without the two being related. Here we have on page 305 the ending of a technology article followed by fashion then one about a new illustrated literary book soon to be available for sale by Ackermann's. Here at the bottom of the November fashions article we see an subtle advertisement for the new release of Ackermann's annual "The Forget Me Not". "The Forget Me Not" was another well known publication by Ackermann's. This "Literary Annual" was published around November of every year (just in time for the Christmas gift giving season) from 1822-1847 and targeted mainly the female marked. This new style of "annual" contained 12 engravings to represent each of the months and stories or poems to accompany each. It also contained a review of the previous year, the recent census, a family tree of the monarchy of Britain and a list of sovereign families and ambassadors for other kingdoms. This would have been a very safe gift for a gentleman to present a lady and in some years it sold up to 20,000 copies. It is believed that the bound version of Ackermann's only sold upwards to 1,000 copies per year; so this shows how popular "The Forget Me Not" was. ************* I hope you have enjoyed another trip through the Regency Fashions of Ackermann's Repository and that you join me again when I post the fashions for 1824. For your convenience here are some quick links to the earlier Regency fashions I've posted on my blog. Ackermann's ran series 1 from 1809 - 1815 Series 1 - Vol 1 & 2 - 1809 Series 1 - Vol 3 & 4 - 1810 Series 1 - Vol 5 & 6 - 1811 Series 1 - Vol 7 & 8 - 1812 Series 1 - Vol 9 & 10 - 1813 Series 1 - Vol 11 & 12 - 1814 Series 1 - Vol 13 & 14 - 1815 The Ladies of Ackermann's Regency Fashion (this is a fun digital art piece I did using many of the above ladies) Ackermann's ran series 2 from 1816 - 1822 Series 2 - Vol 1 & 2 - 1816 Series 2 - Vol 3 & 4 - 1817 Series 2 - Vol 5 & 6 - 1818 Series 2 - Vol 7 & 8 - 1819 Series 2 - Vol 9 & 10 - 1820 Series 2 - Vol 11 & 12 - 1821 Series 2 - Vol 13 & 14 - 1822 Regency Garden Party with a Roaring Rogue (this is a fun digital art piece I did using several Ackermann's Repository images from series 2 and one fun lion man from J.J. Grandville, who was another Regency period illustrator.) Ackermann's ran series 3 from 1823 - 1828 Series 3 - Vol 1 & 2 - 1823 Series 3 (1824-1828) still to be posted Till our next Regency adventure Thanks for visiting me here at EKDuncan.blogspot.com If you have enjoyed seeing these images from Ackermann's Repository and would like the opportunity to see and read an original for yourself they are are available on line at www.archive.org Click HERE then choose the volume you are interested in. You can then see and read them online or download them to your computer for future reference. Enjoy!

When I bought a bundle, several yards in total, of narrow silk at a recycle shop in Japan back in June, my first thought was that I could use this silk for something Regency. Now, this magenta and yellow slubby silk with a cross-hatch pattern really isn't historically accurate for the early 1800's in the western world. Among other things making the fabric rather historically inaccurate, Japan wasn't even opened for trade with the western world until 1853, 50 years after the era of the garment I wanted to make. So, yes, Japanese silk. The year 1801. Technically they don't work together. But did that stop me? No, and I don't regret it one bit! I brought home the silk with a vague idea in the back of my mind about what I wanted to make from it. I began by looking at Regency era fashion plates and extant garments online to see if I could find something close to the idea I had - and I did! (I can't seem to find a source for this beyond Pinterest, sorry!) Saved to one of my Pinterest boards I found this 1804 fashion plate. The yellow sleeveless spencer jacket thing was exactly what I had in my mind! Source A bit more Pinterest browsing brought me to the above 1801 fashion plate featuring a magenta version of a similar garment. I studied both fashion plates, paying close attention to how the "skirts" of the garments appeared to be laying in the depictions, and came up with a plan for how I would cut my garment from the narrow silk in my possession. For the bodice of the garment, I decided to adapt the drop-front gown bodice lining pattern from Patterns of Fashion 1, by Janet Arnold, which I'd used to make my Regency gown 3 years earlier. As I'd already altered these pattern pieces to fit me and used them successfully in a previous project, I decided to just skip the mock-up and go straight to cutting out the final garment. Amazingly, this worked out fine! First I cut the bodice lining from the same pink striped linen/cotton blend shirt I'd used to line my turban cap with. (The fabric from that old shirt is now completely used up!) As I wanted the front of this sleeve-less spencer jacket type thing to fasten right under my bust, I lowered the front neckline considerably. After I cut out the lining from the linen, I cut out the silk from the same pattern pieces. The bodice front pattern pieces were a bit too big to fit on my narrow silk, so I had to piece together the front pieces. No big deal - piecing together narrow fabric to cut out large pattern pieces is period accurate! I didn't use any pattern for the skirt section of the garment. I formulated a rough idea in my mind of how the skirt panels must be shaped based on how the skirts lay in the fashion plates, measured a couple things, then cut right into my silk. The back skirt is cut almost like a triangle with a half circle cut out at the waistline. The side seams are cut on the bias, at a 45 degree angle, to get those delightful "points" which I fell in love with in the fashion plates. The front skirt panels are cut as straight widths of fabric with no shaping except for the side seams, which are cut at a 45 degree angle for the points. On the finished garment I'm very pleased with how the back skirt turned out, but I do wish I'd patterned the front skirt differently and given it more shape. Oh well, it turned out well enough and I can't be bothered to change it now. I sewed together all the main pieces by machine, then took the garment with me to Uganda and finished up all the hand sewing on that trip. Before I left I pressed under 1/4" around all the edges of both the lining and the silk. While I was gone I slip stitched the edges together. Sewing away a layover on my way to Uganda. Once the bodice layers were sewn together, I attached the skirt. I'd sewn the skirt side seams prior to leaving with narrow machine-sewn french seams. I initially attached the skirt to the bodice with a whip stitch, then decided I didn't like how the skirt was laying that way. I went over the whip stitches with a running stitch, and am very pleased with the way the skirt lays after that! The skirt didn't require hemming as I'd cut the bottom edge on the selvage to save myself the bother. I did, however, have to narrowly hem the edges of the front opening. That went pretty quick. With the construction done, I moved on to the trimmings - tassels, made from silk thread, to attach to the points! I made the tassels and attached the tassels, and then, 3 nights into my trip to Uganda, the thing was done and wearable. If I'd realized how quick it would go together I would have hand sewn the entire thing on the trip rather than machine sewing the long seams before leaving! The one thing I didn't get done on my trip to Uganda was add some sort of fastening to the front overlap. I just couldn't find any buttons or anything I liked for this project! Thus, for the time being, I opted to skip the fastenings. I wore the newly finished garment safety pinned closed in the front to my sister's birthday party the day after I returned home from Uganda. It worked. Safety pins and all, I love how this thing turned out! It was just the thing to dress up my plain white regency gown! Fabric bought in Japan. Design based on French fashion plates. Sewn in Uganda. Worn in America. What is this thing actually? Is it a sleeveless spencer jacket with a skirt? A waistcoat? A short open robe? Well, according to the French description on the 1801 fashion plate, helpfully translated for me by a friend in the Saint Louis Georgian Sewing Society, the technical name is "A Tunic with Points". So there you go, this trans-continental garment is a Tunic with Points - and I love it!

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Hartfield Regency Boots offer both sense and sensibility with the perfect early Regency silhouette. Designed directly from original examples, Hartfield boots are constructed with pride of the best quality leathers inside and out, including a durable 100% leather sole, for complete historical accuracy for the years  c.1790 to 1805. Your Hartfield boots can be worn for indoor activities as well as walking in the countryside, and will offer you comfort, protection, and style for years to come. Wear them for your Jane Austen, French Revolution, and Regency events. Materials & Sizing 100% leather upper 100% smooth, hard leather soles Lined in leather Lace-up closure with tongue, for maximum adjustability. Laces are approx. 62 in / 157.48 cm in length Period correct spring heel Left and Right lasted for maximum comfort B width Also available in dyeable/paintable ivory [custom tab] Sizing Size Trends Runs true to size for most customers. Width Regular (B) width  Size Chart [/custom tab][custom tab] Materials Color Ivory Upper 100% Leather Lining Pigskin leather Sole Leather Heel Stacked Leather Heel Height 0.5 in / 1.27 cm Heel (Flat) Footbed Lightly Padded Closure Laces Origins Design Designed in Reno, Nevada, USA Materials People's Republic of China Assembly Made in China [/custom tab]

My summer project for this blog is to showcase many of the antique images from the pages of an old British publication nicknamed Ackermann's Repository. Today I'm posting the 6th installment of some amazing fashion plates from this 200 year old Regency period publication. I started with the first year 1809 and will continue to post the entire 20 years of fashion plates till we reach the last issue for December 1828. Please check previous posts for the years 1809-1813 and then upcoming post for the remainder of the series. This is my favorite 1814 Ackermann's Repository fashion plate Fashion plate 4 is the description to my favorite fashion plate shown above It's just so much fun to see how they wrote during this time period and to see how fashions were described. Here is an example of that for the two July 1814 fashion plates. Ackermann's Repository of Arts, Literature, Commerce, Manufacturers, Fashion and Politics. was a popular publications in England from 1809-1829. (The 1829 issues were printed as "Ackermann's Repository of Fashion".) I have found the articles and illustrations to be a fascinating glimpse into that time period. One of my favorite ongoing series in the magazine are the fashion plates. Each monthly issue usually included 2 Fashion plates, giving on average a total of 24 Fashion plates for the year. Though the magazine was published monthly; specially bound volumes were available from Ackermann's. These "bound" book versions, consisted of a 2 volume set for each year it was in publication. Ackermann's Repository "Bound" Series 1 ran from 1809 - 1815 with a total of 14 Volumes for Series 1 Series 1 Vol 1 was Jan - June 1809 Series 1 Vol 2 was July - Dec 1809 Series 1 Vol 3 was Jan - June 1810 Series 1 Vol 4 was July - Dec 1810 Series 1 Vol 5 was Jan - June 1811 Series 1 Vol 6 was July - Dec 1811 Series 1 Vol 7 was Jan - June 1812 Series 1 Vol 8 was July - Dec 1812 Series 1 Vol 9 was Jan - June 1813 Series 1 Vol 10 was July - Dec 1813 Series 1 Vol 11 was Jan - June 1814 Series 1 Vol 12 was July - Dec 1814 Series 1 Vol 13 was Jan - June 1815 Series 1 Vol 14 was July - Dec 1815 Today I will be posting the fashion plates for the year 1814. Series 1 Vol 11 was Jan - June 1814 Series 1 Vol 12 was July - Dec 1814 Enjoy! Ackermann's Repository 1814 Fashion Plates 1814 - Ackermann's Repository Series1 Vol 11 - January Issue 1814 - Ackermann's Repository Series1 Vol 11 - January Issue 1814 - Ackermann's Repository Series1 Vol 11 - February Issue 1814 - Ackermann's Repository Series1 Vol 11 - February Issue 1814 - Ackermann's Repository Series1 Vol 11 - March Issue 1814 - Ackermann's Repository Series1 Vol 11 - March Issue 1814 - Ackermann's Repository Series1 Vol 11 - April Issue 1814 - Ackermann's Repository Series1 Vol 11 - April Issue 1814 - Ackermann's Repository Series1 Vol 11 - May Issue 1814 - Ackermann's Repository Series1 Vol 11 - May Issue 1814 - Ackermann's Repository Series1 Vol 11 - June Issue 1814 - Ackermann's Repository Series1 Vol 11 - June Issue 1814 - Ackermann's Repository Series1 Vol 12 - July Issue 1814 - Ackermann's Repository Series1 Vol 12 - July Issue 1814 - Ackermann's Repository Series1 Vol 12 - August Issue 1814 - Ackermann's Repository Series1 Vol 12 - August Issue 1814 - Ackermann's Repository Series1 Vol 12 - September Issue 1814 - Ackermann's Repository Series1 Vol 12 - September Issue 1814 - Ackermann's Repository Series1 Vol 12 - October Issue 1814 - Ackermann's Repository Series1 Vol 12 - October Issue 1814 - Ackermann's Repository Series1 Vol 12 - November Issue 1814 - Ackermann's Repository Series1 Vol 12 - November Issue 1814 - Ackermann's Repository Series1 Vol 12 - December Issue 1814 - Ackermann's Repository Series1 Vol 12 - December Issue One of my favorite things about viewing these fashion plates is to see the subtle changes that take place from year to year in Regency fashion. The latter part of 1814 was a time of great celebration in England due to the abdication of Napoleon and his exile to Elba. There were lavish parties all through London and fashions started to reflect the gaiety the whole of England was feeling now that the war was over... little did they know that in a few short months he would be back. Join me next time for the fashions of 1815 Thanks for visiting me here at EKDuncan.blogspot.com If you have enjoyed seeing these images from Ackermann's Repository and would like the opportunity to see and read an original for yourself they are are available on line at www.archive.org Click HERE then choose the volume you are interested in. You can then see and read them online or download them to your computer for future reference. Enjoy!

Miss Jane Porter apparently wore a Fichu. The Fichu, the chemisette—false sleeves... these are little fripperies that can change the look of a gown dramatically. When you are into costuming, you can spend a lot of time sewing gowns and amassing a massive wardrobe of gowns simply because you want a variety of options. Sometimes having the right accessories can really change up looks that you already have. The fichu comes in a variety of forms. Its purpose, as was the chemisette, was to fill in the neckline and to add a little je-ne-sais-quoi to your clothes. Some pretty chemisettes. A chemisette is a small 'dickie' of sorts; a sleeveless, or sometimes sleeved light-fabric blouselet that was put on before the gown as a neckline filler. Some were simple, some quite elaborate. A fichu serves a similar purpose, but is not an actual shirt. It's a piece of fabric wrapped around the neck and shoulders to cover and also highlight the decolletage of the wearer. It is my experience, looking at the images of extant garments over the years, that items of Regency clothing, although similar in silhouette and style, were often constructed quite differently by different people. As people are today, they were also back in those days, imaginative, inventive and thrifty. They would use and reuse fabrics, and they would find ways to make their items particularly special. Since the only thing that was mass produced were the fabrics, there’s no end to the variations in construction. The Fichu is a perfect example of how the simple act of filling a neckline became a sort of competition of creativity, starting with the thickly ruched necklines of the early Regency to the froo-froo ruffled collars of the late Regency. They are really indispensable necessities for any regency wardrobe, and lend a touch of authenticity that wearing just wearing a gown cannot achieve. This is a different application of a fichu (left). Tied 'round the neck, in front of the arms and then around the waist. It is also a coloured fichu. All you really need is your imagination, some very nice sheer fabrics and laces, and a couple of hours if your good in order to make some little accessories that will change your gown’s appearance completely. Fichus were worn underneath the bodice and over the bodice. They varied in shape from a rectangle to a triangle. Some covered the exposed neckline, while others only served to dress the existing neckline. Some were long, others were just slips of laced netting. In portraits, you see a variety of opacities in fabric, from the sheerest of the sheer, as delicate as dragonfly wings, to only slightly transparent, densely woven laces and embroidered nets. A lovely post about fichus with some lovely extant examples. The trick is to decide what looks you want for yourself, and then using the very basic shapes to construct those desired items. For chemisettes; there are a few patterns available where you can construct the basic garment, and then build upon it in lace and ruffles and such. Sense & Sensibility (Regency Underthings Pattern includes 2 styles of chemisette) Rocking Horse Farm Early 19th Century Gown (includes a chemisette) Regency Neck Ruffs were often added on over chemisettes. Here are some tips on how to make a neck ruff: Historical Reproductions' Neck Ruff Tutorial Elizabethans were not the only ones who thought lace-ruffs were the pinnacle of fashion. Neck ruffs got more elaborate as the late Regency wore on. fashions were getting frillier and frillier. As for the Fichu, it does not necessarily require a pattern to make one. You can build them right on your dress-form or you can just use general measurements and cut them from there. Depending on how much you want full you want your ruching around your neckline, you can adjust the width of the fabric accordingly. Your key measurement points are your shoulder width, and the distance between the back of your regency waistline and the front. If you’re going to wear it on the outside of your gown, then you can make the ‘lapettes’ as long as you want them to be. I’ve seen lots of images of older women with fichus on their shoulders with panels that hang down the front the full length of their dress. It’s very pretty. I'm slightly crazy about the hat, I must say. Here are a few styles of Fichu I’ve seen in either fashion plates, costume mining in adaptations or portraits. These drawings are open for interpretation, because again, these were made individually and to a person’s tastes. You can add and subtract from the basic shape to your heart’s delight. Each image has a number. Below all the examples is a key with the very basic shaping of the chemisette drawn out on it. Keep in mind, I measured these based on my body--there is NO substitute for your OWN measurements. If you don't have a dress-form, then measure it on yourself. And measure twice, cut ONCE. If you make something too short, you can always add lace edging, or ruffles--it's not a science, it's all about creativity. If you use the foundation shapes and measurements, they sky is the limit in what you can do from there. The simplest form of fichu. A rectangle, ruched and then tucked. Another rectangle, with a cut for the neck. The tuckable triangle. The triangle worn on the top of the gown. With long 'lapettes' in front. I've seen these made to the length of the dress. This can be made, and set with drawstrings to set the shape and gathering. Recommended fabrics for Fichu (as a strong recommendation I suggest you try to stick to silk and cotton products) : Cotton or silk netting. Voile. Batiste Organdy (although it can be crunchy and stiff but it works wonders for ruffled collars) Silk or cotton gauze Cotton Lawn (please pardon my hasty, and quite awful drawings!)

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I'm sorting out accessories for this year's Jane Austen Festival . First on the list is to make a new reticule. Previous reticu...

As I continue to build my Regency wardrobe, I have found myself in need of a reticule. Since those flimsy, figure-hugging Regency gowns leave no room for pockets, a girl needs a place to put her fan and handkerchief, to say nothing of the anachronistic necessities of cell phone, car keys, and such. Small decorative bags were all the rage during this period. They tended to be rather fanciful in shape, their pointed, geometric outlines highlighted by embroidery, tassels, and other embellishment. Early 19th century, MFA Boston This particularly fabulous example is actually four-sided; each side has a different central motif. Click the link above to see pictures of the other sides. As I hunted for inspiration in online museum collections, I noticed a common theme in the reticules that I was drawn to: most of them were white/off-white and decorated with colorful embroidery. Certainly there are many examples of brightly colored reticules, but the white ones seem a bit more common and were the ones that caught my eye. 1800-1824, V&A This is one of my favorites. So many tassels!! 1790-1800, V&A A slightly earlier example with very ornate embroidery. You can see how these little bags would have easily developed from 18th century pockets. 1820-1830, V&A Yes, this is a bit later, but I love the embroidery. After ogling all these pretties, I just knew my bag would be white. The current Historical Sew Fortnightly challenge happens to be a white theme — what a convenient coincidence! I was lucky to pick up a half-yard remnant of creamy off-white silk taffeta for about $3 at Discount Fabrics a few weeks ago (there were tape marks along part of it, so they gave me a steep discount off the remnant pricing). Perfect for this project, since I can easily cut around them! I chose a simple shape, typical of the period: basically a rectangle with a triangle at the bottom, like the one shown here: The shape narrows at the top because of the drawstring. For the embroidery pattern, I poked around online to find a motif that evoked the style of embroidery seen on originals — something delicate, scrolling, and floral — and found one I quite like. I would share it here, but I can't seem to find either the image itself or the website I got it from. Sorry! I chose embroidery floss colors that seemed period appropriate, then started stitching. I am a very inexperienced embroiderer, so I just made stuff up as I went along. The stems were done in split stitch, the flowers drawn with outline stitch, and most of the rest is some kind of satin stitch. I realized after the fact that chain stitch might have been more appropriate, but I'm still fairly pleased with the result: The bag is lined in lightweight white cotton. The tassels are handmade from sz. 30 silk thread, and the drawstrings are 5/8" silk satin ribbon. All in all, a very simple and satisfying project! The details: The Challenge: #15 — Colour Challenge White Fabric: Off-white silk taffeta, white cotton for lining Pattern: improvised Year: 1790s-1820s Notions: DMC cotton floss, sz. 30 silk thread, 1-1/2 yd 5/8" silk ribbon How historically accurate is it? Fairly accurate, to the best of my knowledge. I know next to nothing about period embroidery, so the stitches or floss may be wrong. The farbics are good, the construction is plausible, and it is entirely hand-sewn. I would say at least 7 out of 10 for accuracy. Hours to complete: 4-5 hours for the embroidery, plus about 2 for construction. First worn: will be used at Costume College 2013 Total cost: around $12 (about $3 for the silk remnant of which I used only a tiny portion, $4.25 for the silk thread, and about $4 for the silk ribbon — cotton lining and embroidery floss were from my stash)

PDF Pattern: Regency Pineapple-Reticule Crochet Pattern GERMAN ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------- This cute crochet Pineapple-Reticule is inspired by historical reticules and their intructions from the 19th Century and will look great at your next Regency Ball, Jane Austen Festival, picnic, Afternoon Tea, a wedding or other special occassions while keeping all the essential things for a Regency Lady! This pattern combines my love for beaded crochet, historical accessoiries, the coveted pineapple in Regency era and my preference for practical little bags! It´s intended for anyone who would like to try out beaded crochet and end up with a pretty and fun accessory! The pattern is written in German and is a total of 9 pages including cover page and lining tutorial. A pattern in ENGLISH is also available in my etsy shop! !! You can also purchase a finished reticule I made after this pattern in my etsy shop!! Please note: As this is an instant download there are no returns on digital files! Please send me a message if you have any questions about the pattern! ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- All of my items are handmade with love in Graz, Austria. I also do commissions – please message me for further intormations. www.historicalneedlework.at @historical_needlework

Headdresses and hairstyles The pictures trace the changes in evening headdresses, from the modest turbans of the early Regency, through the penchant for veils and onto tall feather headdresses and the return of turbans, higher than before. The hairstyles move from neat, high twists with ringlet

It is easy to think of the Regency as romantic – duels, elopements, dashing bucks and gorgeous gowns. But the slang of the period soon dispels that, as do the some of the images of the time, …

Looking for a small project to complete over the Christmas break? A regency reticule is definitely something you can start and finish - even by hand while watching the cricket (an Australian tradition). Reticule, England, 1800-24 Silk with embroidered floral design and tassels V&A: Museum no. Circ.554-1954 From MFA, Boston. Accession Number 64.692 Ladies cream silk reticule with chenille embroidery. English 1790-1800 Matching silk satin reticule & shoes in Aylwen's private collection A pattern to knit a pineapple reticule is here. You can draw up your own pattern by looking at pictures or use the reticule patterns that are part of the Elegant Ladys Wardrobe pattern. Wingeo also have a reticule pattern with many variants. There are some simple pouch instructions and also a reticule pattern online. Here is a link to how to make tassels and here are some regency embroidery patterns for decoration. To learn even more about reticules, come along to the Jane Austen Festival Australia in Canberra each April and attend one of the workshops. Links to reticules online: http://www.mfa.org/collections/object/drawstring-bag-48619 http://www.mfa.org/collections/object/spun-steel-bag-119562 http://www.mfa.org/collections/object/painted-silk-bag-octagonal-47... http://www.mfa.org/collections/object/bag-123011 http://www.mfa.org/collections/object/drawstring-bag-123012 http://www.mfa.org/collections/object/bag-123013 http://www.mfa.org/collections/object/knitted-and-beaded-round-draw... http://www.mfa.org/collections/object/drawstring-bag-48208 http://www.mfa.org/collections/object/bag-clasp-and-bag-69876 http://www.mfa.org/collections/object/drawstring-bag-100052 http://www.mfa.org/collections/object/bag-50155 http://www.mfa.org/collections/object/drawstring-bag-49690

More Regency era clothing and accessories? Why not! I’ve spent the majority of this pandemic sewing through my fabric and notions surplus, so when it’s safe to gather again, I’ll …

Remember the smock apron I finished in March? Yesterday I found the pattern again. It was hiding in a vase in the living room. Not sure how it got there… LOL. Now I could get cracking on the …