I’ve moved! please come visit my new virtual home at asatricosa.com for the perfect NECKLINE (or underarm or anything, really…) No gaps, no holes. The…
If you have been crocheting for a while now, you have probably designed some of your own pieces and thought about sharing those designs with the rest of the maker community. I think it’s a very natural progression for a crocheter to want to try their hand at designing and I say GO FOR IT! … Continue reading How To Write A Crochet Pattern | What To Include
Today I’m going to demonstrate, step by step, a technique to achieve a seamless join when crocheting in the round. This technique achieves an almost invisible join. As you can see in the phot…
Please ask me to send you the link to the color options. If you are a bride to be, this crochet wrap will be a cozy, comfortable and beautiful wedding shawl choice! It will also be a beautiful accessory in your wardrobe. A yarn with acrylic and wool blend is used and the shawl is cozy and soft. This shawl is a good choice if you are looking for a wedding shawl. It looks really good with denims also! You will be more beautiful within it. It is embellished with pineapple motives. Please convo me if you have any questions or if you want the item to be made with a non-wool yarn. Please be informed that because yarn color charts are changed by yarn producers time to time, some of the stated colors may not be available or some new colors may be added. The colors are not limited with the stated colors. Please contact me and ask me to send you the color options. Approximate dimensions when laid flat: Height from neckline to hem edge: 53 cm (21”) Length: 213 cm (84“) Please click if you want to consider to have the shawl with its matching gloves as a set: https://www.etsy.com/listing/271234641/cozy-shawl-version-2-wedding-scarf If you are from Australia, New Zealand and surrounding countries, please contact me and ask me to calculate the current shipment cost for you. Both standard shipment and express shipment are available. Hand wash in luke water, wrap in a towel to remove water, then lay it flat to dry. Don’t twist or squeeze it when it is wet. Thank you for visiting my shop.
The crochet Crab Stitch or the Reverse Single Crochet is such a beautiful crochet stitch to finish of crochet projects or even knit projects. It creates the crochet crab stitch border and it is really simple, but at the same time looks really good. The reverse single crochet edging has the same steps as regular single crochet stitches, however you are working the stitches backwards or in the opposite direction.
Because I really like aliens but couldnt find a good pattern :^) Unfortunately I dont have pictures of the construction, sorry! IMPORTANT NOTE: this pattern has not yet been tested. If you find any…
So when your good friend, who is a lactation consultant asks if you can make some Croobs (crochet boobs), what do you say? Obvious, really. The perfect gift for a midwife, breastfeeding councillor, health visitor or any other in-need-of-a-boob-type-person. Here's the pattern, written in UK terms: By varying it slightly you can create a normal, inverted and flat Croob (explanations below). Each Croob measures approx 10cms in diameter. You need: Hook and yarn (any dk or Aran weight will do it) Toy stuffing I used a 4.5mm hook and Drops Paris Cotton in Dark Beige (26) for the nipple and Powder Pink (58) for the flesh. You'll probably need 2 balls of the pink to make all three Croobs. Normal Croob In beige Rnd 1: 6dc in magic ring or ch2, 6dc in 2nd ch from hook. Rnds 2 and 3: 1dc in each st around Rnd 4: 2dc in each st around (12 sts) Rnd 5: (1dc, 2dc in next st) repeat around (18) Rnd 6: (2dc, 2dc in next st) repeat around (24) Rnd 7: (3dc, 2dc in next st) repeat around (30) Change to pink Rnd 8: (4dc, 2dc in next st) repeat around (36) Rnd 9: (5dc, 2dc in next st) repeat around (42) Rnd 10: 1dc in each st around Rnd 11: (6dc, 2dc in next st) repeat around (48) Rnd 12: (7dc, 2dc in next st) repeat around (54) Rnds 13-17: 1dc in each st around. Rnd 18: (7dc, dc2tog) repeat around (48) Rnd 19: (6dc, dc2tog) repeat around (42) Rnd 20: 1dc in each st around Rnd 21: (5dc, dc2tog) repeat around (36) Rnd 22: (4dc, dc2tog) repeat around (30) Rnd 23: (3dc, dc2tog) repeat around (24) Rnd 24: (2dc, dc2tog) repeat around (18) Stuff firmly Rnd 25: (1dc, dc2tog) repeat around (12) Rnd 26: dc2tog around (6) Finish stuffing and sew closed. Flat Croob Make as normal, but miss out rounds 2 and 3. Inverted Croob Make as normal, but leave a long tail of the beige when you begin. Once you get to round 24, pull the tail to invert the nipple. Stuff as usual and complete the pattern. Tie the beige tail to the pink to prevent the nipple from un-inverting and sew closed. Happy days! Enjoy your crochet, Sarah xx
(Yarn: Berroco Comfy Chunky in Goldenrod; Fabric: Heather Ross " Nursery Versery " for Kokka "Postage Stamp Cheater" in Yellow) My mot...
instructions are for the easiest & most consistent One colour Granny Square that I know &, although there are many variations, this is the one I use because I know my squares will be square & the corners open & even &, no matter how many rounds are I work, the square stays flat without ruffling or pulling in
I've wanted to try the Virus Poncho for a while now. I don't need a poncho, but I wanted to try this design. I found a really good tutorial on YouTube, grabbed my yarn and hook and got moving. This is not my first Virus project, so I already knew the basics of the motif. I just needed the help getting going with working the design in the round. Joanna does an excellent job of getting you started with the project with her clear instructions. If you want to give this one a try, I recommend you check out her YouTube channel for this and other tutorials. With worsted weight yarn (this is Caron Big Cake in Nightberry) it works up quickly. In a lighter weight yarn it would be light and delicate. To get a proper sized poncho, I think you really need two of the big cakes. When I was approaching the end of the first cake I didn't think it was big enough so I picked up a second cake. I think it turned out the perfect size. Self-striping yarns (Caron Cakes, Caron Big Cakes, Bernat Pop, Lion Brand Mandala, Premier Yarns Sweet Roll, Knit Picks Felici, and loads of others) are a great way to add a collection of colors to your project without buying full skeins of the yarn in each color or having to change colors. You have to give up a little control and let the yarn do the work, but I think it is worth it. If you aren't a fan of self-striping, check out the vast number of ombre yarns out there. They create a similar effect that can be more subtle with the color changes. Tools Clover Armour Crochet Hooks Clover Armour Crochet Hooks with zippered case Clover Locking Stitch Markers (3-pack) Buy more of these than you think you will need. Someday you will find you need every one you have for one project even though most projects only need one or two.
I have been crocheting since I was about 10 years old. My Mamaw taught me how to crochet a chain and that’s what I did, crocheted million foot long chains, all day long. Eventually, she taught me the double crochet stitch, then after that everything else I learned was basically from youtube and books (yes … Continue reading 8 Game Changing Crochet Tips and Techniques
Just a really cool pattern
This circular skirt is as simple in its construction as it is stunning once you are finished. It has the most amazing drape and flow to it and it can be made in your preferred length. The skirt is crocheted from the top down and it will be made to measure. This way it will be a perfect fit for you and because of the elastic band, which is incorporated, it will fit comfortably and securely. Special techniques, that are used in this pattern, will be explained in greater detail and with many pictures. These techniques include the foundation chain with single crochets, the standing double crochet (video) and how to work a picot. For the pictured skirt (size 36/38) I used approximately 400 g of fingering weight yarn.
It's really hard to go wrong with broken rib—it's always such a pleasing texture. In Dale, Elizabeth has used it not only in the split hem, cuffs, and short funnel neck of this pullover, but also in the raglan shaping, which we think is a really cool detail.
The Contiguous Method is available as a pdf download. Click on the link above and you can choose from 5 languages - English, Spanish, French, Italian, Dutch and German. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ The Contiguous method is a way of knitting the shoulder seams and sleeve caps of a garment from the top down. It differs from Barbara Walker’s simultaneous set-in sleeve methods, in that this method uses one continuous row (or round) right from the start. This incorporates the front, shoulder seam, back, other shoulder seam and other front. BW’s method only reaches this stage after knitting about a third of the top/yoke. This method naturally forms a nice shoulder slope. A good way to get the feel for the method is to try the Mini-sampler KAL. It doesn’t take long, and some lucky dolly or teddy will appreciate it! And yes, it IS asymmetrical. Once you have tackled that, there are patterns available using the Contiguous method, a list is over here.. Some patterns are free. Or, if you are an adventurous knitter who likes to do her own thing, the “recipe” is over here.. Once you have your measurements and gauge, you can make up your own design. Do check out the topics in the group - there’s lots of help with things like different increase types, back neck shaping, and so on. If you use the method to knit or develop a garment, or write a pattern, would you please include the following acknowledgement: This garment is worked seamlessly from the top-down using the contiguous sleeve method developed by Susie Myers, SusieM on Ravelry (http://www.ravelry.com/people/SusieM). And please add the tag “contiguous” to your project or pattern.
Giving to charity is one of the great things about being a knitter or crocheter. We make things that can really help people, all the while putting love and good wishes into each stitch. The blankets, hats, scarves, and other items we make are cherished by the recipients, and we can pass our love of craft along to help...
Use this tutorial to learn how to crochet invisible joins, creating a seamless look when you join the end of a round. Lots of pictures included.
Okay... this is a really common problem for those learning crochet... I know, because I have experienced it first hand. Working row after row of regular crochet... just trying to make a square or a rectangle, but the shape goes all wonky - and you realise you are losing stitches. Sound familiar to anyone? Well... I know that some of you are struggling with this... because you have told me! So. Stop reading right now... Go and get yourself a hook and some practice yarn... and we will work through it together! Ready? The place where you are most likely to run into trouble is where you work the FIRST and the LAST stitches of each row... and the part which can trip you up is that the 'rule' changes depending on which stitch you are working in. To keep it really simple for today, let's use single crochet (US) chain 6: sc into 2nd chain from hook, sc into next 4ch: ch1 and turn work work your first sc into the first stitch as shown in the diagram: sc into next 4 stitches... 5sc in total: ch1, turn work sc into first stitch: sc into next 4 stitches... 5sc in total count in your head as you go: ch 1, turn... 1... 2... 3... 4... 5... ch 1, turn... 1... 2... 3... 4... 5... ch 1, turn... 1... 2... 3... 4... 5... over and over again until you have the hang of it... it won't take long see the way the sides are even and I am not losing stitches? yours will look like this too... so... that's the way to start and finish your rows when you are working in either sc or hdc... next time I'll show you what you need to do differently if you are working in dc or tr - it's not hard - you just need to know the rules!
Stitching lace insertion to fabric is the first technique that we learn when I teach heirloom sewing by machine. This is not a strong application of lace and best used on collars, yokes, or sleeves. Lace insertion is the lace that is straight on both edges. If one side of the lace feels rougher than the other, this is the wrong side of the lace. I have used a contrasting color thread for the photos. Use a fine machine thread that matches the lace and a 60/8 size machine needle. Starch and press the lace and fabric. Using a wash-away marker, mark the lace placement lines on the fabric. Set the sewing machine on straight stitch length of 2.0 and stitch close to the edge of the lace down both sides. I prefer to stitch from top to bottom each time to prevent the fabric and lace from distorting. Turn the fabric to the wrong side, and carefully cut the fabric between the stitching lines, being careful not to cut the lace. Press the fabric away from the lace. On the right side of the fabric, using a zigzag stitch of 2.0 width and 0.7 length, stitch over the previous stitching line. The stitch should "zig" into the lace and "zag" into the fabric. On the wrong side of the fabric, using blunt scissors, trim away the excess fabric. Starch and press the fabric and lace before continuing with your garment. I first started doing heirloom sewing about 15 years ago while doing custom sewing for "Joy's of Smocking" in Decatur, AL. I still love working with lace and fabric!
Ever try to make spaghetti straps? Seems doable, right? Just sew down one side of a strip of fabric that’s been folded in half lengthwise…then turn it to the right side…wait, how …
I have been recycling yarn for resale now for over a year and a half. During that time, I have probably wound enough yarn to wrap the world ...
