Sashiko pattern hand-printed with water-soluble ink on soft greige slub. Designed by Ky Fujita for QH Textiles. Color: White Made of: 85% cotton and 15% linen blend cloth Size: 12in x 12in Use: Sashiko Cloth Made in Japan

This piece of sashiko is going to be the "Japan" part of my 2010 holiday set of journal quilts. I've done "Singapore" and "North Island, New Zealand" which you can see in progress by clicking on those two places. The project will also include the miniature "Storm at Sea" quilt that I started at the Timaru Quilters' Gathering. I stitched this using Susan Fletcher's method of applying the design with vilene on the back of the work, as we did with her "Dragonfly Over Diamond Waves" tutorial. The journal quilt is very much in the style of Sylvia Pippen, with the flowers appliqued onto the panel after fussy-cutting them from some Japanese fabric. I wanted to use flowers to represent the wonderful plants and colour we enjoyed in Tokyo (even though we missed the cherry blossom). Here is a picture of the azaleas in bloom at the Nezu shrine.

So far we’ve learned Star Flower, which is a center filled flower, Star Flower Flow, an echoing variation, and now...

Big Stitch quilting has gotten to be a big deal in the past few years, so I was thrilled when Jo Glover, who published the original directions for BigStitch Quilting, spoke to our guild last year. …

I'm needing a new design fix today! This design is based on Basic Spiral, but with little pointy ends like flames to make it Blazing Spiral:I read somewhere last year that Spirals are the new Stippling, which made me laugh at the whole fashionista sound of that. After all, gray is now the new white!But

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Learn how to free motion quilt a beautiful design called Flame Stitch. See how this design works when quilting on your home sewing machine.

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Sahiko is a popular hand-embroidery technique that originated in Japan. Learn how to do the Sashiko technique by machine

I love bump-bump feathers. I have practiced many different styles, but for traditional looking feathers these are my absolute favorite. I ...

Hello all, Today i am going to continue my investigation into the Provençal Costume by talking about something which may be surprising in such a warm climate, namely, quilted clothing. Quilted clothing is extremely widespread, as far as China, being a practical way to produce warm clothing. There are three garments worn as part of this costume which are sometimes quilted, the corset or bodice, the petticoat, and the skirt. Obviously these are more commonly worn in winter, but the skirt especially is sometimes worn even in warm weather for special occasions, such as weddings. There are two types of 'corset' or bodice worn in Provençe, with a lace up front, or an overlapping front which is pinned shut. The peasant class, the Paisanne, often wears a laced bodice as the sole outer garment, made of a double layer of colored or striped cloth. The Artisanne and the Bastidanne most commonly wear the bodice or corset which is pinned shut across the front. The back has a fold with lacing to adjust the corset to the body and provide support for the torso. This type of bodice/corset is worn over the chemise and under the dress or jacket 'caraco'. The corset is usually white or off-white, made of a double layer of cloth, and often finely quilted. Here is a photo of such a corset. Another similar garment is the petticoat, which in cooler weather is quilted the same way. These garments are made with minimal wadding or none at all, and often show very elaborate geometric and/or floral designs quilted into them. Here are some examples. More surprisingly, perhaps is a skirt worn by the upper class, the 'Bastidanne', which is sewn and quilted just like a comforter, and is considered to be a very formal garment. The normal skirt averages about 4.5 m around, but the quilted skirt runs about 2.6 m. The regular skirt is called 'jupe', but the quilted skirt goes by the special name of 'Cotillon'. Here is a drawing by Lucille Armstrong showing this version of the Provençal Costume. This is more or less the upper class, Bastidanne Costume, except that the sleeves on the jacket are usually longer, and the fichu is normally of whitework. Here is another photograph of a Provençal wedding, with both the bride and groom in the Bastidanne Costume. It is very refreshing to see people maintain their own traditions instead of submitting to the cookie cutter white elephant wedding gown of standard western culture. The woman standing at the left and the man kneeling at the right are both in Paisanne Costume, while the two women standing and kneeling behind the groom are both in Artisanne Costume. If you look closely, you can see that the bride is wearing a quilted 'cotillon'. If the cotillon is made of a printed material, then usually the quilting is made up of a grid of diamonds over the body of the garment, with parallel lines of quilting on the bottom edge. Here are some examples. These skirts are made in a wide variety of colors and print designs. These skirts are made by putting the lining cloth on a stretcher, then placing the wadding on top, and the outer cloth is then quilted by hand on top. The bulk of the texture of the quilting shows on the outside, and the inside is relatively flat. There is a second type of cotillon which is made, in which the surface cloth is of a solid color, often a rich silk. A band of design is inserted between the diamond grid of the body of the cotillon and the parallel pipes of the hem. Here is a photo of the Bastidanne costume including such a cotillon. The solid color of the top cloth enables the quilted design to be seen and appreciated. Those who wish to make more ambitious quilted designs choose to do this. The inserted design varies significantly in width. Here are a couple more examples. Here are some examples of the types of designs which are inserted. Each horizontal band is a separate design. There is yet one more type of cotillon which is sometimes found. Occasionally a girl makes one specifically for her wedding. While the dress for the wedding may be of any color, this particular type is often white. The added design makes a very wide band, but instead of being arranged in bands, the design consists of various images symbolic of a wedding, fruit, flowers, arches, baskets, hearts etc. scattered around the band. Usually this includes the bride-to-be's initials, and can also include inscriptions such as short prayers or 'this skirt belongs to demoiselle X'. These are obviously a lot of work and are often handed down as heirlooms within the family. Here are a couple of examples. I found this tradition of handiwork surprising, and I hope that you find it interesting and inspiring. Let us make and wear things that are not the same as everyone elses. Let us look to the traditions of the past when everyone contributed to the development of traditions. Thank you for reading. Feel free to contact me with requests for research. I hope to eventually cover all of Europe and the Former Russian Empire/Soviet Union. I also gratefully accept tips on source materials which i may not have. I also accept commissions to research/design, sew, and/or embroider costumes or other items for groups or individuals Roman K. :[email protected]. Source Material: Mary Gostelow, 'The Complete International Book of Embroidery', New York, 1977 Rode de Basso Prouvenço, 'Le Costume Populaire Provençal', Aix-en Provençe, 1990 Andre Sainsard, 'Costumes Folkloriques Provinces Françaises', Paris, 1972 Royere, Gardilanne, Moffat et al, 'Les Costumes Regionaux de la France', New York, 1929 Charles-Brun, 'Costumes des Provinces Françaises', Paris, 1937 P. Leroux, 'Costumes Regionaux', Paris, 1940 Nicolette Tennevin & Marie Texier, 'Dances of France II. Provence and Alsace' from the series 'Handbooks of European National Dances', London, 1951

Find a detailed quilting tutorial on Flowing Glass, a fun beginner level quilting desgin created by Leah Day. Find a video to guide you as well!

Sahiko is a popular hand-embroidery technique that originated in Japan. Learn how to do the Sashiko technique by machine

I think we can all agree that as quilters we have this deeply implanted love of creating and being creative, and that creativity doesn’t just stop at piecing a quilt top. Doing the actu…

I am thrilled to have Sarah Vedeler as our November FMQ Expert, for the 2012 Free Motion Quilting Challenge, and deli...

Happy Christmas Eve! I hope you're kicking back and enjoying all the food, fun, and good times with family and friends that this time of the year brings. No, there might not be a lot of time for quilt

Big Stitch Quilting by Charlotte Noll I have been machine quilting for many years. My first quilts were hand quilted. When I had children, it was too time consuming so I purchased a sewing machine with free motion capabilities and never looked back. As a member of the South Florida Modern Quilt Guild I have learned s

Sahiko is a popular hand-embroidery technique that originated in Japan. Learn how to do the Sashiko technique by machine

Want to learn the basics of hand embroidery with an easy online workshop - totally free? Sign up for Embroidery 101 here. You'll learn how to get started, the tools and supplies you'll need, the four most basic stitches, how to transfer your pattern and how to display your work. If you already know the

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Hello Everyone! I hope that your Holidays were very happy and that your New Year is off to a great start! The last few weeks of 2009 were a bit of a crazed blur at our home, starting with my daughter getting stranded for a few extra days in London due to bad weather and canceled flights, (happily she made it safely home 2 days before Christmas) then the plumbing broke and the car died. 2010 rolled in to save the day, just in the knick of time, and all is now well, (knock on wood!) The Quilt In between all the "fun", I did manage to start a new, utilitarian inspired work quilt, which helped calm me immensely. This is the first layer. I started with various sized pieces of shot cottons in blues and greens, pieced together to form long rows. Next I machine quilted lots of closely spaced rows, of varying widths, followed by long rows of multi colored hand-stitching I have just a few more rows of stitching to complete, and then I can move on to the 2nd and final layer which will be made up of appliqued patches and more stitch work. The Barn You may have noticed that I have a new blog banner to start off the new year. I wanted something to reflect the new path I am headed in and since I find a lot of visual, and soulful inspiration from the old, weathered barns found around where I live, I thought it would be fitting to use one in my banner. The barn I choose to use in my banner is my new favorite. It is almost within walking distance from my home, but I never knew of it until a few weeks ago when my husband took me to see it. Situated on State Game Land, it is gloriously removed and remote, with nothing but fields and trees all around. Here is the date stone... 1795... isn't that incredible?!? To think it has stood for so many years and now has entered its 4th century! I find that most inspiring. ********************************************* Over the next few weeks I hope to start making some more changes to the blog and to my shops. I will be emptying my Etsy Shop of any remaining merchandise, (the big sale is still on, but not for too much longer!) and slooooowwwwly be filling it back up with new stitched work. Stay tuned!

Learn how to quilt Etch n' Sketch, an easy edge-to-edge quilting design that's perfect for beginning quilters to master on a home sewing machine.

Quilting Counts! Really, when you think about it, it’s the stitching through the layers that transforms a top into a quilt, so make sure it contributes in full measure to the beauty of your quilt! Elegant & Powerful Straight Lines: Fully integrated and thoughtfully planned quilting enhances and supports the quilt. By integrated, I mean that the quilted stitch design should tell the same story as the quilt’s composition. Strong lines make a very noticeable contribution to the visual impact of a quilt. Lines have the power to direct attention toward or away from its various parts. They can affect the mood of the work by adding movement and excitement or contribute a quieter, mellower feel. For example, horizontal lines commonly create the impression of calm, tranquility and space. Strong vertical lines can give the feeling of importance, drama and height. Diagonals tend to indicate action or forward movement. Tightly angled lines that constantly meet and cross each other give a dynamic, lively effect to the work. The same kind of line, running in different directions, can add interest to the overall quilting pattern. Repeated lines of parallel stitching on traditional quilts often changed direction upon reaching the outside border, thus highlighting the center or the border – or both! Decoding the Magic of Lines: There are three basic qualities of any stitched line; visibility, style and scale. Understanding them lets us easily expand the range of potential designs we can create. Varying each of them opens an endless range of quilting ideas. Melody’s TIP: A great way to test a design before stitching is to draw it onto a piece of clear Duralar™ or Plexiglas™, a piece about 18” by 24”. Mark the edges with tape so you know where to stop from drawing on your quilt top. Place it over your quilt, test patterns directly onto the plastic with a Vis-à-Vis Wet Erase™ pen. This allows you to evaluate how the lines and shapes of your planned quilting design will relate to the pattern of your quilt top In Conclusion…Your quilt top is beautiful – and the quilting is the delicious frosting on the cake! Let the feel of your quilt and your unique artistic interpretation play out in your work. The result? Pure genius!

Free Motion quilting block by block. Free tutorial on various free motion quilting motifs. In this post, you'll learn how to free motion quilt an allover square loops design and also a direction guide to free motion quilting half square triangles

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Sahiko is a popular hand-embroidery technique that originated in Japan. Learn how to do the Sashiko technique by machine

Learn more about machine quilting on your home sewing machine and find a free video tutorial on quilting Trailing Tears, a fun design by Leah Day.

Olá, bom dia a todos. Vou compartilhar com vcs também os desenhos para quilt livre achados na net. São lindos e fica maravilhoso nos trabalhos. Se vc é iniciante, treine bastante, pois, quilt livre bem feito tem que ter treino. Risque os desenhos com caneta que sai com água ou calor para ficar mais fácil. Não desista, uma hora vc vai estar craque... Tem muitos vídeos no youtube e muito assunto no google e muito ateliê que dá aula, procure, invista em vc. Junto com os desenhos tem uma foto de um exemplo de treino. Um ótimo dia a todos!

I think we can all agree that as quilters we have this deeply implanted love of creating and being creative, and that creativity doesn’t just stop at piecing a quilt top. Doing the actu…

Standard Free-Motion Foot This foot is especially designed for free motion embroidery, stippling, darning and monogramming. Skipped stitches are no longer a concern; as the needle moves up and down, so does the spring-loaded foot. This foot gives excellent fabric control (no flagging) while the stitches are being formed as well as the ability to move the project freely under the foot. Great for: •Echo quilting •Free-motion quilting •Quilting with free-motion stippling •Outline quilting •Sashiko quilting •Trapunto quilting •Broderie perse applique •Bobbinwork •Embroidery with free-hand stitching •Monogramming with free-hand stitching •Reverse embroidery with free-hand stitching •Making corded lace with free-hand stitching •Needlelace with free-hand stitching •Battenburg lace •Cutwork •Needleweaving •Free-motion shirring with elastic Fits the following models of Janome TB12, TB30, 100, JA104, JA105, JA106, 106, HF106, 107, HF107, 108, L108, 110, L110, MO200, 222A, 128, 200, 318, 320, 324, 344, L344, 352, L352, 353, L353, 360, 372, L372, 373, L373, 380, 381, 392, L392, 393, L393, 405, 415, 419S, 423S, 436, 444, 446, 500, 502, DX502, 509, 521, 525, 525S, 525LE, 530, 531, 532, 534, 535, 540, 541, 542, 543, 544, 545, 552, 556, 574, 592, 605, 608, 609, 609NH, 611, 618, 619, 620, 621, 622, 623, 624, 625, 625E, 625FA, 626, 628, 630, 631, 632, 639, 640, 641, 642, 650, S650, 651, 652, 653, 655, 659, 656, 656A, 656B, 657, 657A, 660, 661, 662, 663, 670, 670R, 672, 680, 681, 681D, 684, 692, 693, 710, 712, 712T, JP720, 750, S-750, JP760, 763, 772, FA772, 791, 791FA, 792, 793, 795FA, 802, 803, 808, 808A, 844, 900, 910, 920, 921, S-950, 980, 990, 1003, JS1003, 1004, JS1004, JF1004, 1008, JS1008, JS1008LE, 1012, JF1012, HF1012, 1014, JF1014, 1017, 1018, DC1018, JF1018, JF1018S, 1022, JF1022, DC1050, 1050, 1117S, 13512, 1406, 1408, 1410, 14412, 1502, JA1502, JA1504, 1506, JA1506, 1508, JA1508, 1510, JA1510, 1512, JA1512, 1518, JA1518, 1560, 1570, 1580, 1585, 15312, 15822, 1612, LR1612, 1616, LR1616, LR1618, 1622, LR1622, 1714, 1780, 1803, JD1803, 1804, 1806, JD1806, 1808, 1810, 1812, JD1812, 1814, JD1814, JD1816, 1818, JD1818, RX1818, 1822, JD1822, RX1822, 18750, 1504, 1618, 1722, JD1810, 1816, 1918, SR2000, 2003, 2003P, 2007, DC2007LE, 2008, HT2008, ASQ2009, 2010, DC2010, DC2013, 2014, NH2014, SD2014, 2015, S2015, DX2015, SS2015, 2018, 2018S, SW2018E, 2022, DX2022, SL2022, 2030, DX2030, 2030DC, 2039, 2039SN, 2040, 2041LX, 2041NX, 2041S, 2041SX, 2049LX, 2049NX, SR2100, 2118S, 2122, 2139S, 2139N, 2149SX, 2160, 2160DC, CE2200, 2200XT, 2206, 2212, 2222, 2250, QS2250, 2860, DC2007LE, DC2007LE, DC2010, DC2011, DC2012, DC2014, 2022, HF2022, 2041, DC2050, DC2160, HF3000, 3015, S-3015, MS-3015, DC3018, 3022, HF3022, 3023, ML3023, DC3050, 3123, HF3125, 3128, 3160, DC3160QDC, DC4030PR, DS3500, 4014, ME4014, 4018, ME4018, DC4030, 4045, 4045LX, 4045NX, HF4045LX, 4048, 4052LX, 4119, 4123, ME4123, 4120QC, 4612, 4623, 4623LE, DE5124, 4612TM, 4612LE, 4618, 4618LE, DC5100, DE5018, DE5024, HF5024, 6019, 6019QC, 6125, 6125QC, 6260, 6260QC, 7061NX, 7306, 7312, 7318, 7325, 3125, 2141S, 7360, 7330, HF8077, 8048, 8080, Jem Gold 2, 3, LXE, Jem Gold 639, 660, 661, Jem Silver 662, Jem Platinum 720, 760, Memory Craft 2400, 3000, 3500, 4000, 4400,4900QC, 4018, 4023, 4800, 4800QC, 5001, 5002, 5500, 6300, 6300P, 6000, 7000, 7500, 5200, MC3000, MC2400, MC3500, MC4000, MC4018, MC4023, MC4400, MC4800, MC4800QC, MC4900QC, MC5001, MC6500P, MC5002, MC5200, MC5500, MC6000, MC6300P, 6500P, MC7000, MC7500

Learn how to machine quilt River Path with two types of machine quilting - walking foot quilting and free motion quilting. Discover how easy it can be to fill your quilts with beautiful curving texture with this beginner design!

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When I posted an update about my sashiko style stitching the other day I received some really lovely comments. And I thank you for all of them. I was, however, left with this feeling that lots of people are afraid of hand stitching. Don't think they could get their stitches small enough. Or even enough. Or something or another enough. Hogwash! Before I get started though let me make something clear, I am not an expert in any way, shape, or form. This is just my opinion and how I do things. Many may do it differently. And their way is most likely as good as or better than mine. Hand stitching is not about getting every stitch exactly the same length. Experience makes you more likely to have even stitches but it is not necessary. It is more the overall effect created by the stitches, and if anyone ever comes up close - quilt police style - to examine each and every stitch then poke them in the eye I am sure this is not someone you associate with normally and don't offer them a mince pie, cookie or cup of tea. When hand stitching with perle cotton you are not going for teeny tiny stitches. That would be counter productive. You are going for impact, enhancement of the quilt design, etc. Big is better, really and truly. The other thing you need to do is look at the back, because if you are trying to get the stitches on the back of your quilt to look exactly like the ones on the front then you are a way better person than me. Personally I am trying to do what quilting does, hold the quilt layers together, compliment the piecing and fabrics with the stitching, create something usable and pretty. As you can see above, the stitches are there, the pattern is there but the stitch length is shorter and the gaps between wider. It is what happens when you weave a needle in and out between quilt layers. Trust me here, when I first tried this I spent anal hours trying to make the back and the front exact. What a waste of time! Sometimes, horror of horrors, you might not properly catch the backing layer of fabric, or just get the needle through a little bit. The world will not end. Remember, two photos up, the back didn't look too bad? Now look even closer. Imperfections abound, if you are the quilt police and looking that closely. My other piece of advice about hand stitching with perle is to do with seams. When I am stitching something like the Christmas stars I did a couple of weeks ago I never try to get close to the seam. I go with the same 1/4" rule we use in our seam allowance. There are two reasons I do this. In my mind it looks better set back from the seam. And two, you have less layers of fabric to stitch through if you have pressed the seams in that direction in that part of the quilt. You wouldn't think two more layers of cotton would make such a big difference, but it does. I am not sure if this blog post helped anyone at all, but if it encourages just one person to buy some perle and try it out I shall be smiling. Susan