A quilting pattern that features a star motif on a background of feathers. This quilt was designed by artist and author Linda K. Johnson for her book

Designer Bev Getschel used fabrics with subtle value variations to create this dynamic quilt.

Feathered Star Quilt Tutorial: http://www.thequiltingland.com/2022/02/feathered-star-quilt.html

I've been working on a little project for you! I wanted to make the feathered star foundation paper piecing templates that I've been enjoying so much available to you! Oh yeah, and it's FREE!! Get yours today ! I've had a lot of fun putting together different fabric combinatio

The Quilter’s Negative Space Handbook from C&T Publishing/Stash Books is now available! Signed copies are available here. This book is all about quilt design, and about showing you how to…

Star Diamond Antique Quilt in solid turkey red and off-white is hand quilted in diagonal grids and a decorative curved quilting motif that highlights the feathered star blocks. This pattern is also called Triangle Star. This quilt measures 83 inches by 84 inches. The back of the quilt is solid off-white cotton that is slightly brighter than the white used on the front. The binding is a separately applied narrow band of solid turkey red. The inner cotton batting is a very thin layer of cotton. This quilt was probably made sometime between 1860 and 1910. The first photo shows the entire quilt, which is very striking. The second photo shows the quilt on a full size bed, where it has a generous overhang on all sides. Red and white quilts are highly sought after among collectors. It will also be perfect if draped over a chair or sofa or folded at the foot of any bed. The quilt is soft and drapes well due to the long years of use and gentle laundering. The turkey red color is a bit toned down from its original vibrant color and is quite uniform across the surface of the quilt. The third photo showcases one of the nine star blocks. The fourth and fifth photos highlight the curved quilting motif used in the center of the stars and in the white background. The sixth photo shows narrow red binding, which is somewhat faded in color but not frayed. There is a light yellow stain shown in the seventh photo which is about one inch in diameter. In the eighth photo there are some light brown smudges on the white. Notice the tiny gap in the ninth photo where the stitching has come out. The tenth photo shows the quilt folded back to reveal the solid white backing fabric and the nice quilting used all over the quilt. This quilt has no holes or tears and the fabric is still wonderfully sturdy. #479

Learn to make this stunning piece with the Aurora Feathered Star quilt block tutorial.

We had a great day for a trip to Oklahoma City yesterday, it was sunny and mild and we zipped down with little traffic - It's about a 2 1/2 hour drive from Wichita. The Oklahoma City Winter Show has lots of vendors and a small judged show. Although small, there were some really nice quilts entered. This hand quilted beauty won Best of Show: This pretty quilt combines embroidery and beautiful quilting, it won Best Traditional quilt: My quilt, Tree of Life - with Bugs, won Best Innovative Quilt. Yippee! Joe and Amy Hunter are our Innova dealers and Amy is also a very talented quilter. Her quilt won Viewer's Choice: I enjoyed seeing several of Charlotte Hickman's quilts including her Daylilies: My friend Carol Elmore was at the show doing quilt appraisals and her husband Ron was helping. Ron is a quilter and entered one of his quilts in the show. He makes log cabin quilts and I'm amazed how much variety he creates with that one block. If you have every shipped a quilt you know how nerve-wracking that experience can be. Here is a post on Ann Fahl's blog that I suggest you read: http://www.annfahl.blogspot.com/. She has a scary quilt-shipping story and some good tips on shipping your quilt. And thanks to Mayleen, who is always impressed (not always favorably) by Peter's wienie recipes, here is a website to check out: http://www.hotdogprofits.com/blog/wierd-hot-dogs-woah/,

We tend to call this design Feathered Star, a rather generic name that means a star with serrated or feathered edges. This particular quilt looks to be from about 1880-1920. The faded khaki, probably once green or blue, is a good clue to that time span. The pattern with it's octagonal center is older. I found the one below at FirstDibs. It looks to be mid-19th-century. It's a spectacular example with Turkey red prints in the star points. How did mid-19th century quilters pass this design around? I haven't seen any evidence that it was published until the early 1930s. Yet there are many examples dating to the late 19th century. Quilt dated 1876 by Emma Mills Dabney. This version has been floating around Pinterest. In my BlockBase program the star with the octagonal center is #2248. Three names were published in the 1930s. Capper's Weekly from Topeka, Kansas, called it Star of Bethlehem. Aunt Martha's pattern company from Kansas City, Missouri called it Chestnut Burr or Radiant Star. The Aunt Martha company sold a pattern through the mail in 1933. Encouraging more quilters to try the design. Since the pattern is in my BlockBase program for PC's you can print out templates any size. Here's a snapshot of 2 pages of the 4 pages of templates for an 18" block. Roseanne Smith did an almost identical star (I guess it would be numbered 2248.1 in BlockBase) that she learned from the Queen of Feathered Stars: Marsha McCloskey. Marsha with 2248.1 The square in question is pieced of two triangles in Marsha's. In the old quilts it's a single square. She has books on feathered stars and this EQ software for digitized pattern drawing. Sandi Klop, Perennial Star Sandi Klop at American Jane sells a similar pattern in Perennial Star, a few more points. And Marti Michell has templates also for a star with a few more points. Maybe this version should be numbered 2248.3 Feathered Star by Hortense Beck, 1990 Hortense Beck did a reproduction of an old quilt a few years ago that is in the collection of the International Quilt Study Center and Museum. Go to: http://www.quiltstudy.org/collections/search.html And near the bottom of the page pull down the menu in Collections to see the 57 quilts by Hortense Horton Beck. I'll show you a few more feathered star designs in the next few weeks.

Feathered Star quilts aren’t particularly difficult, but they have a lot of pieces and take time.

DOWNLOAD CORRECTED FILE NOTIFICATION If you purchased and downloaded cut file #54066 feathered star 12x12 block for sewing print & cut, prior to 1-22-14, please NOTE that a correction for sizing was made. Please delete the previous file version and re-download (after 1-22-14) PRIOR to printing, cutting and attempting to piece the design. Traditional feathered star quilt block in a 12"x12" size for patchwork stitching is now available from SnapDragon Snippets through the Silhouette America online store. The downloadable file contains the full size templates needed to construct (piece) the block, provided in three different forms: a. Print&Cut labeled templates with cut lines layered with outer print lines b. templates WITHOUT the seam allowances, for sizing ease c. templates for this 12"x12" block that have 1/4" seam allowances added. CONSTRUCTION TUTORIAL Use accurate 1/4" seam allowances throughout. Transfer and use alignment markings to keep patchwork straight. Step 1. Cut the patches you will need for one 12"x12" block. Colors listed will correspond to this color sample arrangement, with the "background" shapes as darker value, and a scrappy appearance. A - one med. blue B - 4 and 4 reversed from varied med. blue C - 4 from background dark blue (make sure straight of grain is parallel to the long "top" edge D - 4 from dark blue background E - 8 from cream scraps F - 32 from cream scraps F - 36 from dark blue background G - 8 from med. blue Step 2. Transfer the location "dots" from the A, B & C printed template shapes to the corresponding patch backsides for positioning assistance. Step 3. Build the sawtooth "stacks" using E, F & G patches. Shown left to right, assemble 4 of each: short simple long simple short diamond long diamond For machine paper foundation piecers, MPF diagrams in pdf format for printing are available for these "stacks" by emailing a request to Jodi at hearthsewnpatterns(at)yahoo(dot)com . Step 4. Align the "simple" stacks, short then long to the appropriate edges of C triangle, pinning the seamline crossing point at the marked dot for each. As you stitch the seams for each stack, end the stitching about half way across the end triangle edge. (This seam will be completed near the end of the block construction.) Press seams toward C after each is stitched. Step 5. Join the short diamond stack (bottom of this illustration) to the appropriate edge of D square, and the long stack as shown in sequence, using the guidemark to align the diamond-to-F patches. Press seams toward D after each seam is stitched. Step 6. Mark a dot on the backside of each E corner at 1/4" seamline intersections. (NOTE: this illustration is for general location purposes only. Illustrations are shown without seam allowances for graphic clarity. The marked dot should be where 1/4" seam allowances cross, and on the backside of the patches.) Step 7. Join a double B unit at the corner of each C unit as shown. Pin to match corner seamline dots, then stitch one patch edge to the dot, stopping and locking the seam as for an inset seam. Align and pin the other patch edge and stitch; press seams toward the center. Step 8. Assemble the center block section by joining A square between two C sections. Press seams toward center. Step 9. Assemble a top and a bottom section of block by joining one C section between two D sections as shown; press seams toward center. NOTE that the C corners at unstitched portion of the seams should be held out of the way to align and join the seam edges (at the diamond tips area). Press seams toward center. Step 10. Join the center section (from Step 8) between the top and bottom sections (from Step 9). Hold the unstitched portions of the seams out of the way in the same manner as for Step 9. Press seams toward center. Step 11. Reposition each unstitched portion of C triangle tip so that corner crossing seamline point aligns at diamond point crossing seamline point. Stitch the remaining portions of the seam at all eight area where this is needed. BLOCK IS COMPLETE!

Feathered Star Quilt Blocks II is the second Feathered Star block book by Marsha McCloskey. The first, Feathered Star Quilt Blocks I, contains 10 Le Moyne-based designs and has been a wonderful design resource for quiltmakers around the world. In this second book you'll find patterns for 15 new and traditional grid-based Feathered Star blocks. The smallest finishes at 10-1/2”, the largest, at 26-7/8”. Design and shading variations are given throughout. Some star blocks in this book are really hard and take a long time to make; others are fairly simple. All require careful cutting and accurate piecing.

Click HERE for the PDF YYYEEEAAA HHHHAAAWWW, Cowgirls and Cowboys~~~~it's time for a change of attitude. After guiding 5 of my friends as they made a feathered star quilt block, I have decided that the need is large to give quilters some much needed confidence that the feathered star is a doable block. Nothing more than a fabric puzzle, the Feathered Star just has more pieces than most blocks. Rules must be followed, but if you treat the block as a simple 9-patch block and assemble each section ONE AT A TIME, you CAN do it. Say this over and over until you really believe it, "HARD BY THE YARD, BUT A CINCH BY THE INCH!". This is our MOTTO for this project. One step at a time, if yo will stay with me, we will be successful in making a Feathered Star quilt block! I am going to go on and tell you that it is not even that important to get the seam allowance the exact right size. What IS IMPORTANT is to sew with a consistantly sized seam allowance. That being said, I will tell you that when I discovered that I could actually make a Feathered Star I learned that if I could sew a consistant seam allowance all my pieces would fall together like dominos. It is the best thing since sliced bread (as my mother use to say). There is alot that has to be done here on the ranch, but YOU are the focus as I attempt this feat. So, quilters, the cows are grazing in the fields, it's not time to harvest the hay yet, the chores have been done, the big kids are in school and the little ones are taking a nap, and supper is in the "Crockpot". Let's prove that you CAN make a Feathered Star Quilt Block! Come on! What have you got to lose? A little stash and a little time--but what you have to gain is confidence and beautiful Feathered Star Block to use as the center of a wall hanging or a focus on a new tote. Let's get started--------- In this post I will guide you in picking out your fabric, give you some beginning tips, a tutorial on making half square triangle units using a method called bias strip method. This is Step one to making your star. TIPS: 1. I use starch or Mary Ellen's Best Press on my fabrics before cutting. This gives the pieces stability and helps keep the bias edges from stretching. When pressing do your best not to move your iron around on bias edges. Not touching them with the iron at all is best, but sometimes, you just can't help it. 2. Test your 1/4 inch seam allowance to make sure it is as close to perfect as it can be. Recently a friend recommended this foot and I have certainly enjoyed using it. If you are having a problem getting that perfect 1/4 inch seam, this might just be your answer. It has a small spindle (disk) that will slide to the right or to the left to adjust your seam just a threads width. 3. The rulers I use are a Bias Square ruler and most recently purchased Marsha McClosky's Feathered Star Ruler. It includes small increment measurements (1/16 most common) that are frequently needed for Feathered Star Blocks. I have made many Feathered Star blocks without it, but it certainly is a nice ruler to have to use and you can find it HERE. Any quilting square rulers will work. If you come across a piece that has 1/16 inch measurement and your ruler doesn't? Just cut the closest you can between the 1/8 inch measurements (1/2 of 1/8 is 1/16th). I know you knew that! I like to use this ruler to cut most pieces. Marsha's new ruler is really cool!! It is very much worth the $15.00 plus S&H. FABRIX--This is a Stash Buster project. For your first FS, consider making it with stash fabric. One block--that is all--just one block--!! You will need 5 fabrix. Your 5 fabrix will be used for the~~~ 1. Background squares, 2. Half square trianges (feathers) 3. cornerstones, Star Tips and triangles that join to the kites and the squares that make the snowball block (all the same fabric for your first block) 4. kites peices. 5 . Focus fabric for the center snowball block. (Click to enlarge this picture and study the names and placement of each piece)This diagram is an attempt to help you become familiar with the pieces of the star, know what they are called so that you will know what pieces are what fabric when you are cutting. Cut 2-- 10 inch squares--one of feather fabric and one of background fabric. You will use a the Bias Strip Method to make your 32 half squares for the feathers of the star. This is your first step. Easy, breezy--no pressure. If you have not used this method before, let me say that I don't know if Marsha Marsha invented this method, but she uses it and it is great for this star. You will place the two 10 inch squares right sides together (RST), use starch or Best Press and press dry. Place the correct measuring line on the ruler so that it covers the edge of the fabric. You don't want to be able to see the fabric edge. Make a cut diagonally from corner to corner then make 2 inch cuts in both directions until you have cut the entire square. Sew the sections together on the longest edge and press the seams open. Then sew the sections together. Your bias strips wll look like this. Start cutting your Half square feather units from the bottom. You will keep cutting them always from the lowest point. Rotate the block and trim to the exact 1 1/2 inch size. Soon you will have a group of perfectly sized half square units to use in your Feathered Star Block. This is only the first installment of the Feathered Star Tutorial. This is taking more time than I thought it would, so please bear with me. I will get you there. I don't want you to agonize over the process, but it seams that I need to include alot of information to make sure that EVERYBODY can ride this horse home!!! If you know what I mean---lol SEW--Just make 32 1 1/2 inch half square blocks -seams pressed open--to be used for your quilt block's feathers. I don't care how you make them, just make them and I will come back soon to tell you what to do next! STEP 2 My 5 friends are firm believers that the Portable Big Bock Flannel Board is a real key to staying organized as you make the Feathered Star. Go HERE to see how I made mine. It will only take about 30 minutes. Now is the time to get that done. Time to cut the rest of the pieces for your Feathered Star. Star Tips-Start with a 1 1/2 inch strip. Use any ruler with a 45 degrees line. Align the 45 degree line along the edge of the strip. Make the cut and then--- Rotate the strip and align the 45 degree line again, put the tip of fabric on 1 1 /2 inches- then make your final cut. You can fold your strip to make two diamonds for each cut for a total of 8 diamonds. Cornerstones--8 - 1 1/2 inch squares. These can be cut from the same 1 1/2 inch strip as the diamonds. Now--you will need 4 triangles to add to the kites. These along with the corners of the snowball block form the circle in the center. Cut two squares 2 1/8 inches. Cut these squares diagonally yeilding 4 triangles. Last, but not least, cut 4 squares to be used to make the coners of the Snowball block at 1 3/4 inches square. These are the pieces that are cut from the same fabric. The center of your block can be a focus fabric and can also be fussy cut if you like. For my western block, I chose a boot fabric. I picked just the boot I want to focus on. The block is 4 3/4 inches. Kites are cut from 4 -- 3 7/8 inch squares that are cut diagonally. Then you measure the length of the square down the long side of the triangle, in this case 3 7/8 inch. You can see the kite shape underneath the ruler. Cut off the pertruding triangle. This is the goal shape called a "kite". All the pieces except the background squares and triangles. Now lets cut those. Background triangles --- 1 - 7 1/2 inch square cut diagonally twice --- 4 triangles. Last, but certainly not least you will need 4 corner squares cut at 5 1/4 inches square. Ok Dolls and Guys--start cutting and I will see you soon for step 3! STEP 3 OH MAN!!! You still have one triangle to cut--sorry--it was not until I began to put my own block together that I realized it. It is background fabric (same as large squares and triangles) and the size is 1 7/8 inch. Cut 8 squares and then cut them once diagonally which yeilds 16 triangles. Before you start to sew, be sure you have a fine sewing thread in your machine and bobbin (I use 50 st.) A fine needle (I use a 60/8) Test your seam allowance Sew slowly. You will sew more accurately if you sew slowly. You don't have to use pins unless you just HAVE TO. If you take my advice above you will never lose your points or your marbles! LOL This is the layout for one of the corner blocks. There are 4 of them. This is the easiest of the two blocks that complete the Feathered Star, so we will start with this one. Does anything look difficult in this block? Looks pretty straight forward to me. The only thing that you might have a little problem with is sewing the diamond to the triangle. The red square is a cornerstone. We will stitch the pieces of each side. The conerstone (red square) can be stitched to either side. It doesn't matter which. Lastly, the shortest side will be sewn to the background square first, then the long side--- Now, lets do a little press talk. When you sew the half squares together, press the seams open. On any other seam, you will press for ease of construction. What does this mean, you say? Well, this is the best I can do to help you. After you sew a seam, let the seam go to the side where there is less bulk. A little farther down I will show you the back of the strip pieces of this block. Sew the diamond and the triangle first. You always match the narrow tip of the diamond right sides together to the triangle as shown above. Stitch the segments in the pattern shown above. Here is a pic of the diamond/triangle of the other side ready to be sewn. Here I am showing you the back of the strips so you can see how I pressed the seams. Side strips ready to be sewn to the background square. Flip the shortest side and sew. This is 1/9th of your feathered star block finished. You need 4 blocks just like this. They will be your corner blocks. BTW--if your background squares seems a little big, don't worry. It is cut big for a reason. Just sew the strips on and don't worry about it when the tips don't sew off the edge. Remember, I AM THE TEACHER. You don't have to know EVERYTHING. You WILL ride this horse home, I promise. Now---get busy with the other three blocks and as usual--I will be back with step 4. STEP 4--HOPE YOU ARE READY!! I hope you got your 4 corners done. I hope they look fantastic! We are ready to construct the other 5 block parts. You know, there is the center Snowball block and then the other 4 blocks--the ones with partial seams????? NOW do you remember? OK--I thought so---- Let's start with the Snowball. Grab your center focus fabric square and your four corner squares and lay them RST on your large center square. You will sew diagonally across each small square. I hope you can see in the pic that I use the edge of my foot as a guide to sew from corner to corner. You can draw a line on your square with a pencil if tha will help you sew straight. Remember to go slow and keep you eye on your destination (the other corner). If you keep your eye on your destination, you will sew right to it. TRY THIS--IT WORKS! Listen to this--Since I use the edge of my presser foot as a guide, I am actually sewing just a thread or two to the right of corner to corner. This is just where I WANT to sew so that the side thaat I flip up will cover the whole corner. I hope this makes sense to you. After you do it, I think it will. Sew all the corners without taking the square out of our machine, just pull with thread attached as you move to each corner and continue to sew. Can you see that my stitching line is to the right of the "corner to corner" line where my presser foot was lined up? I hope so. Press the triangles up to the corners. Back of square after stitching. All looks lined up! Just a little trimming to do so that the corners will be exactly the size of the original square. Check out the slivers that I trimmed off. Trim the back TWO layers to 1/4 inch. On to the last segment of the block--don't get scerd now! This is the layout of the pieces. Sew the feathers t the "end of feather triangles as you see in this picture, sewing the cornerstone to the end of one of the strips. When you sew to the large triangle, you will stop sewing about halfway down the side of the "end of feather triangle". I have pulled back the large triangle so that you can see where I stopped sewing. This is another picture of when I stopped sewing. Sew the feather triangle to the Kite piece. Take note of the placement. Press seam toward the kite. This is what I have sewn so far. No problems?? I am so proud of you!!! Fold th single kite piece down RST and align with the feather strip as you can see above. Press up and press well on a firm surface. Sew far Sew GOOD! When you flip the last piece down you can abutt the seams as they go in opposite directions. Put a pin in here if you need to or just wiggle really good and stick it in the machine. This is what you should have so far. LOOKIN GOOD! WHAT?? You say you want to sew the bottom ow together? OK! I always get antsy at this point too! I want to see progress! The end is actually in sight, isn't it??????? Pin the little sloppy unsewn corner back out of the way so that you don't catch it by mistake and sew the corner block to he middle block on one side. Put a pin in at the point of match (diamond point to feathers and kite point) if you need to. Ten you will be able to smooth out the unfinished seam and sew it really easily. I hope this is clear. If it is not, email me and I will try again! This is what you should have. Do the other side exactly the same way and you will have the bottom section done. Do 3 more sections as we did above. Also you can finish your top row just as we did this row. I will be back to help you with the middle row. It is basically the same, but I will give you moral support as you stitch the last stitches. GOOD LUCK! STEP 5---Well, how did you do? Have you been sewing slowly.???? It sure does help to keep your seams straight and even. As you can see, I finished my other 3 sections. Then I sewed the top row just as I had done the bottom row. The middle row is sewn straight forward. There are two matching points on each side as you can see above. You can pin if you chose. I do not. The seams to the middle section are pressed to the outside The seams on the top and bottom sections are pressed towards the middle. Next is the seam to sew the top row to the middle row. You have a partial seam to deal with. The corner of the side triangle extends as you can see above. Fold it down to get it out of the way and put a pin in that corner to hold it out of the way. After you get the partial seam out of the way, sew the seam. This is the way the end of the seam will look. Take note of the small triangle extending on the end. I am holding the same corner after the seam is sewn. Now you have to finish the partial seam. You line up the seam----- Tthe points match as you can see above. Stitch the seam. You should have a 1/4 inch seam past the diamond point. The corner square should extend past this point and look too large, but we cut it bigger to begin with for a purpose---REMEMBER???? We can trim it down to size. The way I figure it, it is much better to have extra fabric and trim away that to not have enough--because then your SOL!!! (I hope you know what that means--it ain't good. Here is the completed block. YYYIIIPPPPPEEEEEE! YOU DID IT!! (I hope)!! OKKAY--now to the trimming-- This block SHOULD be 15 1/2 inches square--maybe in a perfect world-- But let me say that this rarely happens. But, it doesn't matter and let me tell you why. Your block is beautiful, RIGHT? All you need is 1/4 inch (or smaller) to sew a seam in a quilt. So you trim each side and include the 1/4 inch seam. Now for a very important tip-- You can always add background fabric strips around the block and trip down to a chosen uniform size. The more seams in a block, the harder it becomes to get it the perfect size. Even the most professional quilter will tell you that with a block this complex, the quilt will mostly be designed around the block. Many times you will see a feathered star "floating" in a quilt. Don't think because your block is not the exact size that it is suppose to be that it is not a usable block. In my Feathered star quilt, I don't think one of the blocks is the same size. My hope is that all your blocks will be perfect, but in case they are not, you are the only one who needs to know the truth. Now, I know what you are thinking, "Molly, is your block the exact right size?". Ok, let me tell you---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------you will never know. I told you that I would help you ride this horse home and you did!! I am sew sew proud of you!! Love to all Feathered Star lovers.

I've been working on Leila's We Can Do It! Skill Builder Sampler. We're getting down to the last few blocks and I've drawn them all in EQ7 as we've gone along. This has helped me to decide on colors based on the layout I chose early on. Today I wanted to write about the Feathered Star - block #35 in our set of 36 because it pushed my own envelope in EQ7 and thought I should share it with all of you. The star that she chose is actually an Etoile de Chamblie from Prize Winning Designs ca. 1931, also known as Star of Chamblie, from Hall 1935. This is taken from Jinny Beyer's "The Quilter's Album of Patchwork Patterns", p. 270--an excellent resource. This is Leila's block Her tutorial helps us learn set-in seams, etc. This particular version of a feathered star is not in the EQ7 block library, so I had to draw it myself. Getting out Jinny's book helped me to understand it is a 38x38 grid. Placing the 19x19 transparency grid overlay on top of the image in the book I can then setup the grid in EQ7 and draw it myself. Yes, the 19 x 19 isn't 38 x 38 (but it is half x half), so if something falls in the middle, then you know it is 1, if it falls on the line then it is 2 over from the prior line or the appropriate multiples between lines. Here is how to draw it in EQ7 Block- New Block - Easy Draw Set the size of your block: 12" x 12" Grid Snaps 38 vertical and 38 horizontal --only 19 x 19 will show up, which will be just like the grid I set my graph paper cells to 38 and 38 as well. If you then turn on the graph paper, you'll see the 38 x 38 grid. The following instructions do NOT have the grid lines turned on, so when a grid line is referred to, it is the dots that are on a 19x19 grid. With that many gridlines (38x38) I find it a little bit difficult to visually transfer the design. You can always switch it on and off and check that you've got it right. The inner corner of the triangle is 2 grid marks away from the center square...but they are on the 'half' so be sure to count 4 halfs so you can get the right triangle. It is also a 'half' inside the corner square inner corner point. You can now add the feathered elements. Notice that the corner feathers are different than the middle feathers. Thus the red and blue lines to show the difference. The final step is to remove the vertical and horizontal portions in the flying geese sections so that you can use a larger single piece of fabric. Compare this image with the one above to see the removed elements. Use the select arrow, click on the section, and then hit the Delete key. Here is my coloring for now. By drawing this out in EQ7, you can print paper piecing sections (PDF - print 4) and get a crisp result. I have 'moved' the sections around so that the printing is clean per page (i.e. no sections print over multiple pages). I recommend printing on Carol Doak's Foundation Papers. My suggested sewing for assembly is shown below. Make 4 of these 4-piece sections and have the center piece cut out as well, then assemble. The page of foundation printing are these 4 sections. Repeat it four times. If you have EQ7, you can experiment with other groupings by using the 'Start Over' button and then grouping them how you think you'd like to sew them together. Leaving a partially sewn seam between sections 1 and 2 when attaching to each other and coming back to finish it after bringing the other 4-piece section to it will be important. The center section may need to have partial seams as well, but there are no "Y" seams to 'set-in'! Yeah!! My objective has been achieved!! :-) Here also is a PDF of the rotary cutting. This might help if you want to know sizes and overcut them for paper piecing and then trim as you would normal paper piecing. The key is the center block which should be 4 5/16" square. I'll add a photo of the block when I physically make it...but for now, I'm excited to have drawn the block and figured out a way to assemble it without "Y" seams! Let me know how it goes if you choose to do it this way.

Learn to make this stunning piece with the Aurora Feathered Star quilt block tutorial.

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My first custom of the year!!! Quilting Breakdown: Thread - So fine 401 and Bottomline White Batting - One layer of Quilters...

I've been working on Leila's We Can Do It! Skill Builder Sampler . We're getting down to the last few blocks and I've drawn them all in EQ7 ...

We had a great day for a trip to Oklahoma City yesterday, it was sunny and mild and we zipped down with little traffic - It's about a 2 1/2 hour drive from Wichita. The Oklahoma City Winter Show has lots of vendors and a small judged show. Although small, there were some really nice quilts entered. This hand quilted beauty won Best of Show: This pretty quilt combines embroidery and beautiful quilting, it won Best Traditional quilt: My quilt, Tree of Life - with Bugs, won Best Innovative Quilt. Yippee! Joe and Amy Hunter are our Innova dealers and Amy is also a very talented quilter. Her quilt won Viewer's Choice: I enjoyed seeing several of Charlotte Hickman's quilts including her Daylilies: My friend Carol Elmore was at the show doing quilt appraisals and her husband Ron was helping. Ron is a quilter and entered one of his quilts in the show. He makes log cabin quilts and I'm amazed how much variety he creates with that one block. If you have every shipped a quilt you know how nerve-wracking that experience can be. Here is a post on Ann Fahl's blog that I suggest you read: http://www.annfahl.blogspot.com/. She has a scary quilt-shipping story and some good tips on shipping your quilt. And thanks to Mayleen, who is always impressed (not always favorably) by Peter's wienie recipes, here is a website to check out: http://www.hotdogprofits.com/blog/wierd-hot-dogs-woah/,

This is Missy’s Prismatic Star quilt which is a paper pieced pattern by Judy Niemeyer of Quiltworx. Missy owns Up North Quilt Shop in International Falls, MN and this quilt was a class she held at her shop a few months ago. This is the first time I have quilted for Missy so I asked her if she liked feather quilting and she said they are not her favorite. I’m so glad I asked as I would have put feathers all over this quilt! So my next idea was to have lines radiating out of the star with some fillers. I first doodled about 8 different fills but it was getting too busy so I simplified it with only two designs and very happy I went with this route. The fabric used is Timeless Treasures Gypsy Tonga Strips and the batting is Hobbs Heirloom 80/20. I used a light blue So Fine thread for most of the quilt top, and switched to a light plum for the purple diamonds. I quilted CC’s in the diamonds, stitched in the ditch around the large diamonds and did free hand swirls and U turns in the background. I used my QP Fat Edge ruler for the diagonal lines.

This large quilt belongs to Mary. I am love, love, lovin this quilt! Many times when I take a quilt off of the longarm and hang it to take its picture I am in awe of how good it looks. It is really good to get a different perspective on it. This is especially true with a large quilt like this one. I think that by the time I am nearing the end I am getting tired of looking at it. Yes, I do love variety! Anyway, when I stepped back to look at this quilt after I hung it I said, "Oh My Gosh!" out loud.

Make a sophisticated, neutral quilt using the Stars Hollow quilt pattern. This classic design plays on negative space to create traditional sawtooth stars.