My friend Laura has been trying free motion quilting! We are time zones apart, so unfortunately I can't hover over her shoulder with encour...
Hello all, Today i am going to continue my investigation into the Provençal Costume by talking about something which may be surprising in such a warm climate, namely, quilted clothing. Quilted clothing is extremely widespread, as far as China, being a practical way to produce warm clothing. There are three garments worn as part of this costume which are sometimes quilted, the corset or bodice, the petticoat, and the skirt. Obviously these are more commonly worn in winter, but the skirt especially is sometimes worn even in warm weather for special occasions, such as weddings. There are two types of 'corset' or bodice worn in Provençe, with a lace up front, or an overlapping front which is pinned shut. The peasant class, the Paisanne, often wears a laced bodice as the sole outer garment, made of a double layer of colored or striped cloth. The Artisanne and the Bastidanne most commonly wear the bodice or corset which is pinned shut across the front. The back has a fold with lacing to adjust the corset to the body and provide support for the torso. This type of bodice/corset is worn over the chemise and under the dress or jacket 'caraco'. The corset is usually white or off-white, made of a double layer of cloth, and often finely quilted. Here is a photo of such a corset. Another similar garment is the petticoat, which in cooler weather is quilted the same way. These garments are made with minimal wadding or none at all, and often show very elaborate geometric and/or floral designs quilted into them. Here are some examples. More surprisingly, perhaps is a skirt worn by the upper class, the 'Bastidanne', which is sewn and quilted just like a comforter, and is considered to be a very formal garment. The normal skirt averages about 4.5 m around, but the quilted skirt runs about 2.6 m. The regular skirt is called 'jupe', but the quilted skirt goes by the special name of 'Cotillon'. Here is a drawing by Lucille Armstrong showing this version of the Provençal Costume. This is more or less the upper class, Bastidanne Costume, except that the sleeves on the jacket are usually longer, and the fichu is normally of whitework. Here is another photograph of a Provençal wedding, with both the bride and groom in the Bastidanne Costume. It is very refreshing to see people maintain their own traditions instead of submitting to the cookie cutter white elephant wedding gown of standard western culture. The woman standing at the left and the man kneeling at the right are both in Paisanne Costume, while the two women standing and kneeling behind the groom are both in Artisanne Costume. If you look closely, you can see that the bride is wearing a quilted 'cotillon'. If the cotillon is made of a printed material, then usually the quilting is made up of a grid of diamonds over the body of the garment, with parallel lines of quilting on the bottom edge. Here are some examples. These skirts are made in a wide variety of colors and print designs. These skirts are made by putting the lining cloth on a stretcher, then placing the wadding on top, and the outer cloth is then quilted by hand on top. The bulk of the texture of the quilting shows on the outside, and the inside is relatively flat. There is a second type of cotillon which is made, in which the surface cloth is of a solid color, often a rich silk. A band of design is inserted between the diamond grid of the body of the cotillon and the parallel pipes of the hem. Here is a photo of the Bastidanne costume including such a cotillon. The solid color of the top cloth enables the quilted design to be seen and appreciated. Those who wish to make more ambitious quilted designs choose to do this. The inserted design varies significantly in width. Here are a couple more examples. Here are some examples of the types of designs which are inserted. Each horizontal band is a separate design. There is yet one more type of cotillon which is sometimes found. Occasionally a girl makes one specifically for her wedding. While the dress for the wedding may be of any color, this particular type is often white. The added design makes a very wide band, but instead of being arranged in bands, the design consists of various images symbolic of a wedding, fruit, flowers, arches, baskets, hearts etc. scattered around the band. Usually this includes the bride-to-be's initials, and can also include inscriptions such as short prayers or 'this skirt belongs to demoiselle X'. These are obviously a lot of work and are often handed down as heirlooms within the family. Here are a couple of examples. I found this tradition of handiwork surprising, and I hope that you find it interesting and inspiring. Let us make and wear things that are not the same as everyone elses. Let us look to the traditions of the past when everyone contributed to the development of traditions. Thank you for reading. Feel free to contact me with requests for research. I hope to eventually cover all of Europe and the Former Russian Empire/Soviet Union. I also gratefully accept tips on source materials which i may not have. I also accept commissions to research/design, sew, and/or embroider costumes or other items for groups or individuals Roman K. :[email protected]. Source Material: Mary Gostelow, 'The Complete International Book of Embroidery', New York, 1977 Rode de Basso Prouvenço, 'Le Costume Populaire Provençal', Aix-en Provençe, 1990 Andre Sainsard, 'Costumes Folkloriques Provinces Françaises', Paris, 1972 Royere, Gardilanne, Moffat et al, 'Les Costumes Regionaux de la France', New York, 1929 Charles-Brun, 'Costumes des Provinces Françaises', Paris, 1937 P. Leroux, 'Costumes Regionaux', Paris, 1940 Nicolette Tennevin & Marie Texier, 'Dances of France II. Provence and Alsace' from the series 'Handbooks of European National Dances', London, 1951
Using invisible thread can be tricky when working on a quilt project. This video gives a few helpful tips on when to use the thread and the type you should look for.
Neckline binding is my favourite neckline finish for knits. In today's Briar sewalong, we'll be showing you our method for creating a neckline binding.
Learn how to prewash fabric before sewing your projects to avoid shrinking and other common issues like fraying when you do.
Sewing piping can add a professional touch to the edges of cushions, bags, quilts and clothing. Learn how to sew piping for beginners.
Discover rococo, bullion, and chain and how to use each in projects.
If you want to start quilting, then you don't want to miss What are the Layers of a Quilt? This page is is a beginner's quilting guide from Rose at Threadbare Creations. Quilting terminology can either be blatantly obvious or slightly confusing. So, what is a quilt sandwich? It might sound appetizing, but it actually refers to the three layers of a quilt – the quilt top (the decorative layer), the batting or wadding (the insulation layer), and the backing fabric (the finishing layer). These three layers are the key ingredients of a quilt sandwich. They are basted together to hold everything in place, and then quilted and bound. Having the multiple layers add warmth, drape, and comfort to your quilt, and create a professional finish, so your handiwork will be enjoyed for generations to come. In this modern world of quilting, we are fortunate to have many options available to us, and understanding the importance of each layer will help you determine what best suits your needs and budget. Let’s look at each of the three layers individually, to understand how they contribute to creating a warm and comfortable quilt. Join Sewing It Up For More Free Patterns, Tutorials, & Guides >>
In this tutorial I'll show you a new size upgrade option for my Dragon Dreams pattern: add a flower banner to make a beautiful throw quilt!
You've got to get the binding on your quilt nice and straight to get the perfect look. Read this quilting tutorial to get perfectly straight corners on quilt binding.
Learn how to make a crib size rag quilt. This baby rag quilt pattern for beginners and experts is easy and fast. Learn these tips for easier rag quilts.
Blog of Susan Elliott where she shares her life through her needlework and photography.
Kantha quilts are made by stitching together flattened layers of old saris or old discarded clothes together. They look kaleidoscopic with a collection of vivid colors and designs that make …
There is no anxiety sewists dread more than the anxiety that comes when you are snipping away at your precious fabric. The saying "measure twice, cut once" is there for a reason. If you cut your fabric incorrectly, it can ruin a project and it can cost you a ton of money. That's why we have this quick guide on How to Cut Fabric. This resource is going to provide you with the basics of cutting fabric for sewing and more. Fabric is not cheap and if you do not know how to cut fabric properly, it can do some serious damage. It is even harder to learn how to pin and cut a pattern on the fabric. You have to cut your fabric to match your piece, ensure that your print is going the right way, and make sure that you cut the right side facing out. Stressed out yet? Don’t worry, sewists. That’s why we are here yet again to help you out. This sewing guide is going to give you the top 5 things you can do to cut fabric perfectly every single time. For more sewing inspiration, sign up for our e-newsletter!
Quilt basting is essential to prepare your project for quilting. Learn how to make a quilt sandwich and discover 4 ways how to baste a quilt.
Pressing quilt seams is a crucial step of any quilt-making process – not only will it make it easier to join blocks, it will also make a quilt lie flatter.
How To Make Selvedge Fabric - A Fast & Easy Tute This week I've made a laptop case using selvedges and I thought I'd share with you how I create selvedge fabric. When I buy a piece of fabric I remove the selvedges along both edges by folding the fabric in the correct direction to cut them off as full-length strips. It's up to you how wide you cut them, you may want to cut them wider and see more of the original fabric design. I line the selvedge edge up with a 1" line on the cutting mat and then 1/8" line of my ruler on the next 1" line - lining the ruler over the larger amount of fabric helps hold the fabric in place so it doesn't move while I'm cutting though you do risk making a wrong cut into your selvedge. Update on 11 February 2017 These days I'm cutting my selvedges at 1" instead of 7/8" to allow me to retain more of the print design. The rest of the process of creating the fabric remains exactly the same😊. Update on 11 September 2018 Making fabric from my selvedges has become an important part of my design so these days I have increased the width of the selvedge I cut off a piece of fabric. I'm now cutting at 1-1/8". This gives me more wiggle room for overlapping the fabrics and leaves more of the print section visible on the text selvedge edge. The rest of the process in creating the fabric remains exactly the same😊. To make selvedge fabric first I take a piece of batting or backing fabric - whatever suits the outcome of your project best - and cut it at least an inch wider and longer than the finished size of selvedge fabric that I need. Next, I spray it all over with basting spray such as 505 (temporary/repositionable) fabric spray adhesive - using a repositionable adhesive means you can change the strips around until you're happy with the look. Now comes the fun part - lay your selvedges row by row onto the now sticky backing fabric. Start at the bottom edge of the 'fabric' placing the frayed/finished edge bottom-most. Overlay the next selvedge over the cut raw edge - slightly overlapping it. You may want to vary the amount you overlap the selvedges by so you can see more/less of the colour/design/text. You can use more than one selvedge along a particular row - using up shorter lengths of selvedge - just lay them side by side and leave the side edges raw, any fraying will be minimal and adds to the look of the finished fabric (as in the top row being placed in the photo above) Once the backing batting/fabric is completely covered with selvedges you are ready to sew the selvedges in place. (If you are creating a Quilt As You Go (QAYG) block then at this stage you can spray baste your backing fabric to the made fabric.) The spray basting should hold the selvedge strips firmly in place while you complete this stage. I sew/quilt over the length of the selvedges using my 1/4" foot as a width guide. I choose one very straight edged selvedge as a marker for my first row of stitches and then use this as a loose guide for my next rows 1/8" to 1/4" apart - I'm not looking for a perfectly straight line finish here. Placing the stitch lines so close together firmly fastens down all the selvedge edges and creates the fabric. There're other methods of attaching selvedges that leave the finished edge of each selvedge strip loose from the background fabric but this I like that my method ensures each strip is well attached and often I use a contrasting thread so the stitching becomes part of the finished design also. Here's a finished QAYG selvedge block that I made last year as part of my Something NEW Sampler Quilt. This block contains selvedges from all the fabrics used in making the quilt. This is how the back of the fabric will look - in this case, you're seeing the backing fabric of the QAYG block but if you've just used a backing fabric or batting then you'll see that instead. Once you've finished your 'made' selvedge fabric then you can trim the edges/cut the fabric to size and use in your chosen project. And that's all there is to making selvedge fabric!!! Check out my other Selvedge posts: This time, I used it to make a laptop case Crazy about that Kaffe Fassett blue Millefiore lining I love selvedge fabric - it's so individual and scrappy looking, there's always something to look at and read! I've wondered about crocheting/knitting with my selvedges too - have you tried it? I've crocheted/knitted with lots of materials in the past - one of my favourites is plastic carrier bags - great for making waterproof garden table place/drink mats and chair covers but that's a whole other post! Do you save your selvedges? If you do then share what you've made and if you've used a different method to make selvedge fabric tell us about that too. Updated On 21 April 2014: The laptop case was a present for my daughter's friend Hayley and here's a photo Flicky sent me of Hayley with her case which she tells me she uses every day. The photo is also proof that the sun does shine sometimes in St Andrews, Scotland! Updated at 11 September 2018 I've used a piece of selvedge fabric for a cushion back - I looove how this looks, don't you? See more about this cushion here in this blog post. and another I made last year - read more about it here. How To Make Selvedge Fabric - A Fast & Easy Tute Featured On: Clicking on an image will take you through to the new page of crafty goodness :) Disclaimer: This post is for informational purposes only, no payment or commission is received on click-throughs and opinions are my own.
Basic Stitches Britannica Online Encyclopedia Dressmaking is a craft of making dresses. It is the basis and the start of the fashion world. When you make dresses, you will be called a dressmaker or historically, modiste. Learning the basics of...
After putting out the Patchwork Planner & Journal--- and then this year the Patchwork Calendar, I got thinking (and was missing) a few things.
Pixel quilting is a creative and innovative form of quilting that has been gaining popularity in recent years. With the rise of technology and digital graphics, pixel quilts offer quilters the chan…
More Learn to Sew Tips and Techniques: Before there were sergers, people who sewed knew how to Finish Seams without a Serger. Learn How to Finish Seams.
There are many tutorials out there on how to create a narrow hem. The problem is they mostly demonstrate on a rectangular piece of fabric, which makes the process deceivingly easy. With a few exceptions, that usually is not how I use a narrow hem. If I need to hem something straight, a wide hem of 1″ or […]
take your project up a notch. I love a good pillow, cushion, or bag with pipping. Follow along with this post to learn how to sew piping the easy way.
This sewing basic tutorial will teach you how to sew a gathering stitch for perfect ruffles every time.
Sewing Tutorial: How to sew a curved hem. Learn how to sew a curved or rounded hemline for your shirts, t-shirts or skirts. On the Cutting Floor
Sewing hacks and tips for faster sewing projects, less waste & more efficient use of time. Creative tool storage and tricks for cutting, ironing, stitching
In this sewing tutorial you will learn all about sergers sewing machines. Find out what a serger is, how to sew with a serger and what types of stitches sergers have. What does it do? What sewing techniques to look for in a serger/ overlock machine? Learn to use a serger for your sewing projects.
Ladder Stitch Tutorial - Step by Step with pictures. Follow along my Ladder Stitch Tutorial and finish your projects with no thread showing.
Learn how to sew on a sewing machine with these printable practice sheets. Download them for free, print them on your home printer, then stitch along the lines to practice sewing straight, curves, turn corners, and more. They're perfect for kids and adults who want to learn to sew or practice their sewing skills.
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Match the patchwork seams in your work perfectly every time with this quilting tip - so simple you'll wonder why you didn't think of it yourself!
How to tie a knot in thread using a quilters knot video tutorial and photo tutorial! (Hi! Want more sewing how to tutorials just like this? Then don’t forget to check out my other sewing how to tutorials or my free easy sewing projects!) This tutorial will be showing you how to tie a knot […]
Learn how to make patterns that are reusable and will last longer than a traditional paper pattern. Get tips on how to trace and transfer pattern marks.
Learn how to make a rag quilt with this step-by-step tutorial that’s perfect for beginner quilters or more advanced quilters looking for a quick project.
Learn the importance of documenting your work and how to sign a quilt in this easy-to-follow instructional video.
