I'm all about saving time and money. When I first heard of chain-piecing, I really latched onto it. I discovered that not only did it prevent the little bird's nest knot on the underside of the fabric when starting and that it saved thread, (Have you ever noticed how much thread is thrown away as you sew? You could stuff a doll with it!), but it also kept a whole line of pieces together so I didn't have to get up and down as much as I was sewing. I could get into my groove and go. I then learned that if you used a little scrap of fabric - about 1-1.5" wide and sewed over that at the end of the chain, you had all the benefits of chain piecing indefinitely. Cool. I was converted to the method. Then as I was reading a quilting book (Cut the Scraps! by Joan Ford, pg. 35), she mentioned how she always had 2 projects going at once. The main one and a secondary one that was done over a long period of time. Here's how it works. You are sewing along and come to a place where you need to remove your sewing from the machine. You reach into your little box of pre-cut pieces and sew a couple together, using these as your holder while you remove your sewing project. When you begin sewing again, remove the secondary project and put it off to the side. This first photo is of two scraps I am sewing together to make longer strips. When I have sewn these together, I can remove the black thing behind it that I was sewing. The second photo is of a little plastic container I use to contain my secondary project. In this case, I began accumulating 1" strips - things that others were throwing away and I thought, "Surely something can be made from these!" I think that it's much easier to do this if the secondary project is purely scrappy in design. You don't want to have to keep two projects in mind and remember which one you are working on. One inch strips may not be your cup of tea, but choose some scrap project - especially if it's a "grab bag" style, and you can put those scraps to good use. What I am doing is sewing 1" x 9" strips together, or if the 1" pieces are smaller than that, I am piecing then together to make longer strips which I then cut down to about 9" strips. I sew them together, little by little. When I have 16 strips sewn together, I iron it (I know, I'm waiting until the end), and then trim the square to 8.5" x 8.5." When I get enough of those squares made, I can make them into a quilt. I've been working on this for the last 2 years and have 15 squares out of the 80-120 I need to make a full or queen, so it will be a while before I have it complete, but, I love that I can be wasting nothing - no fabric, no thread. See finished quilt here.

Repair a damaged quilt, including tutorials on mending rips and tears, and fixing holes and frayed seams caused by frequent washing, pets and other damage.

This Scrappy September, we want you to raid your fabric stash and sew up something beautiful with all that's left of your other projects. We knew that quilters end up with lots of leftover fabrics and that inspired us to get scrappy with our September sewing! This September, we are challenging you to make a new quilt entirely from your scrap stash. Are you up for it?

The next stop on our Deco Pattern release train is my Ivory Deco quilt! In case you missed it, the Deco Quilt pattern is now available! If you haven't already read my initial blog post about the two-color Deco quilt that I made, be sure to check that out here. You'll find my inspiration, pattern sizes fabric requirements and other details about Deco. This particular Deco quilt was my second iteration of the design. While my first Deco used two colors, I always knew that I wanted to find a way to introduce more colors into the quilt. I began to experiment with how different fabric groupings within the quilt can change the overall appearance of the design. In my many hours of playing around with different combinations, I noticed that there were certain trends that I was gravitating towards. I think this is apparent in my mock-ups in the pattern and the different Deco quilts that I've created. Ultimately, I wanted the center of the quilt to radiate outward and have a

I have to be honest, woven t-shirts are usually not my friend. I have a hard time fitting them and bias tape makes me cringe (but so do facings)….it’s so hard. But, before my trip to Utah I really wanted to sew up some new rayon tops and was so happy I did – there’s […]

Around the early 1800’s three types of quilts became popular: the whole cloth, broderie perse, and medallion quilts. Several of my past blogs have featured medallion quilts – how to make them…

Are you ready to make the easiest quilt ever? If so, read on to see how I made this easy quilt with no measuring or pattern required!

A blog about quilts, quilting, fabric postcards, and other crafty adventures.

I have been sewing 2.5" squares together at the start and end of much of my patchwork sewing. While I do this I'm actually creating a bonus quilt! If you have never thought about doing this, I'll walk you through it. It just takes a tiny bit of preplanning! First I cut my scraps into 2.5" squares. And I keep them together by color. Here is a bin of Green squares and Cream squares. The lights might have other colors in it but they read as a light fabric The reason I do these as 2 color is I like...

This post ends my current textile series, influences of other cultures on Indian textiles. Today’s topic is on a contemporary practice, surprisingly unknown to most outside the Siddhi Commun…

A step-by-step method to reduce sleeve cap ease by walking the two patterns along their edges and measuring the difference in length. After that, there are a series of steps to remove the excess.

Burst Block PDF Skateboard Appliqué PDF Pentagon Ball PDF BBQ Apron PDF Guitar/Camera Strap PDF Free Motion Basics PDF Action Figure Organizer PDF Sugar Skull PDF Needle Knowldge PDF Out of This World PDF 3 Dudes Quilt PDF Diamond Dreams PDF Bad Call Ball PDF Dog Bed PDF FMQ Straight Drill 2 PDF 60 Degree Ruler PDF FMQ Swoop Drill 3 PDF RAINBOW DRILL PDF Circle Drill PDF Coming Home PDF Superhero Cape PDF Drawstring Bag Toy Playmat PDF Beach Bag PDF Dancing Dots PDF Fabric Postcard PDF Gears Quilt PDF Trick or Treat Bag PDF Turkey Centerpiece PDF Coffee Kit PDF QuillowRead More →

Quilts such as this: And this: And this: Are beautiful. They’re eye candy, and a lot of quilters are immediately drawn to them, not only because they’re beautiful, but also because they’re ch…

This is the BEST beginner quilt pattern. Unlike other quilt patterns, this is written for new quilters and includes video tutorials.

In this guide, I will focus on the following topics: quilt batting types, the best batting for quilting, and how to choose the right batting for a project.

[back from Low Definition 2 ] Over the last few weeks, I have been trying to pay more attention to the other side of the quilt--the quilt back! I have been perusing instagram, flickr, and quilt blogs, and thought it would be fun to put together a collection of inspiring pieced quilt backs.I ne

This post is part of the Sewing Back-to-School series, 30 days of helpful sewing articles by guest bloggers. Feel free

Wander into any quilt store today and you’ll see aisles and aisles bursting with a rainbow of fabrics – here’s great ways to use quilt scraps.

This Leilani Quilt Pattern is in downloadable PDF format. Included in this digital download: – Templates for preparing the curved blocks. – Fabric requirements, and cutting and piecing instructions for five quilt sizes - baby (39 x 39"), cot (35 x 49"), throw (49 x 66"), twin (70 x 88") and double (81 x 98"). – 17 pages of detailed instructions, illustrations and templates, including 'colouring in-spiration' pages – Moderate/intermediate piecing skills required. Read more about this pattern at www.wife-made.com. This pattern requires yardage. Please see the last image for fabric requirements. This listing is for a downloadable PDF document. After purchasing the digital pattern you can download the document from the Purchases tab in your Etsy profile. ETSY TROUBLESHOOTING: If you are having trouble downloading your purchase please confirm that you are logged into the same Etsy account that you purchased the pattern with. THIS IS A COMMON PROBLEM THAT HAS NOTHING TO DO WITH WIFE-MADE. Please double check that the profile name in the email matches the profile you are logged into Etsy with. If it doesn't match then you are logged into the wrong account. ** CONDITIONS OF SALE AND COPYRIGHT ** This pattern is for use by the original purchaser only. Additional parties wishing to use the pattern must purchase their own copy. This pattern may not be stored electronically in a publically accessible location or transmitted electronically. The images, layout, design and other aspects of this pattern are copyright © Wife-made 2019. No part of this design or pattern may be reproduced in any form. Small, home-based handmade businesses, selling items on Facebook, Instagram, Etsy or similar are welcome to sell items made from this pattern on requirement that all product descriptions and swing tags state that the item was created using, or derived from, a Wife-made pattern.

My journey into the Quilting world. A journey of colors, trials, successes and failures. The beauty of woven art.

Hello Everyone! Lots of you have already purchased or upgraded to the new Afternoon Blouse & Shift Dress pattern, thank you so much! I can't wait to start seeing your lovely creations popping up soon. Today I thought I'd share a quick tutorial on how to insert the back inverted box pleat for View 3. The pleat is a lovely little addition to the shift dress, giving you some added shape while also providing an unusual wee detail - right up my alley. You'll need - Your Afternoon Shift back pattern piece a needle with contrasting thread your sewing machine Oh, and this tutorial has been photographed using a mini version of the shift pattern - so much easier to photograph and so cute!! Steps: 1. Take your cut out back pattern piece with the pattern still attached and using your needle and contrast thread, place a small but sturdy temporary tack into the notch markings in the centre back of your shift dress, securing them together. Don't be afraid to stitch this tack in several times, because the last thing you want is for it to move before you've stitched in your final pleat. 2. Using a low heat on your iron, press the centre fold line down gently next to your tack. This will provide a temporary guide, allowing you to line up your box pleat more accurately for the next step. 3. With the wrong side facing you, open out the pleat and press it flat down, lining up your centre 'line' with your temporary tack. This will ensure you have an even amount of 'pleat' on either side of your imaginary centre back line. Pin in place. 4. Stitch your box pleat down with one row of stitching (you may choose to do two for extra security if you like). Don't back tack at either end, instead, leave long tails and pull these through to the underside once you have finished securing your pleat. Knot securely and clip threads short. Remove your temporary tailor's tack. This is what your pleat should look like from the right side! And that's it! Easier than baking a cookie* Next week I'll be showing you how to put the gathering into the back for Version 4 of the Afternoon Shift Dress. Talk soon, xx J * Possibly not as easy as eating the cookie though - but you'll be mighty comfortable doing that in your sparkly new Afternoon Shift :) Shop Patterns . Instagram . Newsletter . Facebook . Pinterest . Podcast

I love how bright and cheerful this sunshine baby quilt is! I’m a big fan of bold and bright colors. This was made using fabrics from my stash...

I have looked at quite a few quilts now, and most do not excite me any more. However, once in a while, I go ‘ohhh’. And that’s what I did yesterday when I came across this beautiful circle quilt tutorial. I love the fabric pattern, design & color choices of this quilts. This is the

Stitching lace insertion to fabric is the first technique that we learn when I teach heirloom sewing by machine. This is not a strong application of lace and best used on collars, yokes, or sleeves. Lace insertion is the lace that is straight on both edges. If one side of the lace feels rougher than the other, this is the wrong side of the lace. I have used a contrasting color thread for the photos. Use a fine machine thread that matches the lace and a 60/8 size machine needle. Starch and press the lace and fabric. Using a wash-away marker, mark the lace placement lines on the fabric. Set the sewing machine on straight stitch length of 2.0 and stitch close to the edge of the lace down both sides. I prefer to stitch from top to bottom each time to prevent the fabric and lace from distorting. Turn the fabric to the wrong side, and carefully cut the fabric between the stitching lines, being careful not to cut the lace. Press the fabric away from the lace. On the right side of the fabric, using a zigzag stitch of 2.0 width and 0.7 length, stitch over the previous stitching line. The stitch should "zig" into the lace and "zag" into the fabric. On the wrong side of the fabric, using blunt scissors, trim away the excess fabric. Starch and press the fabric and lace before continuing with your garment. I first started doing heirloom sewing about 15 years ago while doing custom sewing for "Joy's of Smocking" in Decatur, AL. I still love working with lace and fabric!

Hello Friends! I hope you are well. I have another free pattern to share. My Movement in Squares, designed for Benartex’s Op Art Reflections fabric collection, is quite different from my u…

Hitomezashi (one stitch sashiko) is what really drew me in to wanting to learn how to stitch sashiko. I found the small geometric pattern...

Okay guys, this post has turned into a pretty long and reasonably epic one and that's because there's not actually a lot of information out there on doing Full Bust Adjustments on fitted knit patterns. There are lots of tutorials for FBA's on wovens, but not knits - which I suppose comes down to the fact that knits are much more forgiving. That being said, I completely understand that for some of you, an FBA may be needed, even on a stretchy knit like Bronte. I would always do a muslin to check if you can get away without doing one first though, and one thing you may want to consider trying first is cheating the extra room you need in the front by grading up a size or two in the bust on the front pattern piece only, and then adding length at the 'Lengthen/shorten' line on both pattern pieces. If you don't think that this is going to work for you though, then please read on... Doing an FBA (Full Bust Adjustment) The goal of an FBA is to add width and length to the front pattern piece to accommodate a bust that is larger than a B or C cup (most often a B cup in commercial patterns), without messing with the neckline. To do this, you generally slash and spread your pattern. (Note - you will end up creating a bust dart with a standard FBA, but don't worry, we'll talk about that in a moment). I'm not going to go into detail about how to do a standard FBA, mostly because there are so many great tutorials out there already (I love how clear this one is, but as I said, there are lots of great ones). What I would like to point out though is that when you take your high bust measurement and bust measurement to get how much you should be adding to your bust line, remember that you are dealing with a fitted knit pattern that is meant to have some negative ease (i.e it's deliberately smaller than your measurements and that's where the stretch comes in, to skim and hug your body). For this reason, I wouldn't add in the normal amount you would on a woven. Perhaps try adding half your normal amount to Bronte first, and then see if you need more. For example, if you have a 1 inch difference, try adding in 1/2 an inch first. One other thing you'll need to consider is where your apex actually sits on the pattern. Due to the fact that Bronte is a knit with negative ease, you can't necessarily hold the pattern up to you to find it (as you would on a woven). I honestly don't really have any scientific way of finding this either. All I can suggest is that you try on some other similar tops, locate your apex on them, and then transfer this to your Bronte pattern piece. Alternatively, make up a muslin without the FBA and locate it once you've got it on, then do an FBA on the pattern piece. I can't think of an easier way, but if you have one, do let us know! What to do with that dart you've now created... Now that you've done your standard FBA, you're going to be left with a side bust dart, and that's because you've added length to the side seam of the front and not to the back. That dart takes care of the extra length you've added so that your front and back pattern pieces will match along the side seam. Below is my 'faux' FBA on my mini Bronte pattern piece - I've just guessed where the apex may be and then have slashed and spread my pattern piece to create the imaginary extra room needed and therefore the side dart... Do you see that pesky dart we created on the side seam underneath the arm pit? Bronte (and most knit t-shirts) are dart-less, so how do you deal with this extra side length in a knit t-shirt? Below are three options, but there are probably more, so do let us know if you have one. 1 - Ease the dart into the side seam If you don't want to sew in a side seam dart, then you could think about rounding out the dart and then easing the excess into your side seam. I would approach this in much the same way I would when easing a sleeve cap into a set-in sleeve. Put some basting stitches into the seam allowance, gather them lightly into a 'cup' and sew up the side seam. If you have a length-wise stretch in your fabric, you could also think about stretching your back piece down a little to help accommodate any excess side ease from the front. Be careful when doing this though as you don't want to stretch your fabric so much that you end up with wrinkles and ripples in the final garment. 2 - Dart Manipulation 1. Once you've performed your FBA, you'll be left with a pattern piece that looks something like the below. You'll have a 'dart' at the side bust that you might want to rotate that dart out, so... Does this picture look like half a Transformer to anyone else? 2. Transfer the straight line of your bottom left pattern piece (the red dashed line below) onto the paper below your pattern, you'll use this as a guide in the next few steps. 3. At the pivot point circled below, bring your bottom left bodice section back up and tape in place. Below is what that'll look like, with the grey dashed line indicating the line you drew in step 2. 4. Cut back along that old 'dart' leg indicated by the red dashed line (yes, the one you just joined back up in step 3) BUT leave a pivot point at the side seam (indicated by the circle below). Using your pivot point, bring your bottom left section back up and align it with your original, dashed line. 5. True up your bottom hem. And you're done!! The honey coloured outline below is the original piece - you can see that you've kept the additional length and width that came from doing the FBA, but you've eliminated the dart at the same time. So that, Ladies, is how it's done. Let me know if you have any questions or have any success with this method! I'd love to hear about it. 3 - Sew the dart in For some people, sewing the dart into the t-shirt might just be the best option, particularly if you have a large cup size. This might seem like a strange thing to have in a knit t-shirt, but it's only strange because it's uncommon, and uncommon doesn't mean it's a bad thing. It will mean you will have a beautifully fitting top, and if you have a busy print, you probably won't even notice that little dart line. Two issues you may come across with sewing a dart in however are - if you have a lightweight knit, the dart may move around underneath, and with a heavier knit, you may see the outline from the right side. To combat both of these issues, you could cut the dart out close to the seam once it's been sewn in. Do you have any tricks for doing an FBA with knits? xx J

Life … Quintens pose for a family picture. Six little clowns! Talya loves to snuggle up to Clyde and use him for a pillow. … as a Quilter Today I took a “Fractured Panels” class with Marilyn Rose. We each chose 4 identical panels of fabric and sliced and sewed and diced and sewed them back together to get the #fractured look. Marilyn’s ducks above and fish below turned out so cool. Here are some fractures from others in our class.

This is a guide about printable applique patterns. Applique is a popular craft that is often incorporated into quilts and other fabric arts. Finding printable applique patterns can be an adventure.

See how to sew mitered corners - the easy way!

A reference guide on how to sew with knit fabrics. Tips for sewing with knits, along with resources and books about knit fabrics.

This post is part of the Sewing Back-to-School series, 30 days of helpful sewing articles by guest bloggers. Feel free