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Today I'm excited to share a Mitered & Flanged Machine Binding Tutorial. *** It's fun, saves time and looks awesome!! *** Don't be overwhelmed by the number of steps -- after you do it once or twice it will become old hat... I know you'll love it. *** It works nicely for samples, baby blankets, and quilts that will be washed and worn!! (or if you're in a plain old hurry ;) It's the whopper of machine binding tutorials because I decided to include steps for a Mitered Finish as inspired by a YouTube video by Lisa Bongean (Primitive Gatherings) with Kimberly at The Fat Quarter Shop. ** I followed Lisa's steps to prepare the mitered finish -- AND included a link to their (most helpful) video in this tutorial. After watching the video be sure to leave a comment or give it a "thumbs up" -- it's an awesome learning tool! ** Note, the YouTube video does not include instructions for the Flange OR the Machine Finish - it explains nicely though, how to prepare mitered corners and a mitered finish -- it's a great tool and video and helped me tremendously with the mitered finish. Thanks so much ladies !! OK - Let's get started: We're going to make this sweet little flanged binding by machine with mitered corners, a mitered finish and with beautiful top-stitching to show off your pretty Aurifil threads! Begin by choosing a primary and an accent (flange) fabric. * Add in a complementary 50Wt thread for piecing and a 12Wt thread for top stitching. I chose from my #AuriStash -- #Aurifil thread is always my first choice {love}. Determine Length of Binding Needed: Calculate the total length of binding needed by adding the length of each of the 4 sides and adding an extra 10" to the number. * The sampler was 18" square. 18 + 18 + 18 + 18 + 10. = 82 inches. I assumed I could squeeze 41 usable inches per WOF strip, so I cut 2 strips of each the primary and the accent fabric. Cut the Primary and Accent fabric strips: Cut the primary fabric 1&7/16" wide. I did not have 16 of an inch marks on my ruler, so I split the width between 3/8 and 1/2 to achieve 7/16th of an inch. Now cut the accent fabric 1&3/4" wide (by the number of strips you need). Showing: Strips after cutting the correct number of Primary and Accent NOTE: When using solid colors, I sometimes place a pin in the right side of the fabric so I can tell the right side from the wrong side of the fabric. Piece Binding Strips to Achieve Necessary Length: Now you want to prepare the total length of binding. The sample required 82" so I pieced two WOF strips together at an angle (mitered seams). Be sure that your diagonal line is marked correctly before sewing and cutting. After testing the positioning of the fabric and diagonal line, stitch along the marked line with a straight stitch. (Excuse my wonky straight line - it was Free Motion Stitched ;). After stitching, remove the pins and check to ensure you have a continuous length before trimming. Now fold right sides together and trim the seam allowance to 1/4", trimming the tabs too and pressing open to reduce bulk. Repeat the above steps for the primary fabric. Now you've prepared the correct (total) length of each the primary and accent fabrics. Sew Primary and Accent Fabrics Together Lengthwise & Press: Next you'll layer the primary and accent strips right sides together, aligning one raw edge. Sew along the edge with a 1/4" seam allowance Showing the sewn raw edge Position binding on an ironing surface with the Primary fabric on top. Press flat to set the seam Next open the fabric and press the seam toward the Primary fabric. Showing after binding is pressed open toward the Primary fabric Showing back after pressing toward the Primary Fabric Next you'll fold the wrong sides together, aligning the raw edges and gently press the length of binding. I press gently so the fold IS NOT Crisp or Flattened. *** Attach prepared binding to Quilt Back: This section of the tutorial was inspired by a YouTube tutorial prepared by Lisa Bongean (Primitive Gatherings) with Kimberly of the Fat Quarter Shop. You can view that YouTube tutorial here: "How to Add a Double Fold Binding to Quilts" The section applicable to this tutorial starts around the 2:00 minute mark and continues to the 3:40 minute mark. *** Keep in mind Lisa is attaching to the front of her quilt and finishing by hand (on back) -- we will attach to the back of the quilt and finish with machine on the front. *** Continuing... attach binding quilt back: Working on the BACK of the quilt, position the binding right side down with the Primary fabric to the right (aligning raw edge of Primary fabric with raw edge of quilt back). Next fold the top right corner to the left, wrong sides together, to make a 45 degree angle and press. Now fold the binding wrong sides together so both of the binding raw edges are aligned with the raw edges of the quilt back. *** Position the binding about 1/2 way down the side of the quilt. *** You'll need space above the binding to complete the mitered finish. *** You will begin stitching the binding about 6" from the point shown below. Leave at least 5" of the binding un-stitched (pin but don't stitch) and begin stitching with a 1/4" seam allowance. *** Stop a 1/4" from the quilt corner (I marked my 1/4" with a pin - see below). *** When you stop at the 1/4" mark, be sure your needle is in the down position. Showing, stop stitching 1/4" from the quilt corner. Now lift the presser foot and pivot the quilt layers so you can stitch off the edge of the quilt at a 45 degree angle. Showing: After stitching up to corner and with a 45 degree angle to the corner of the quilt Next, trim threads and rotate the quilt counter-clockwise and prepare for the mitered fold. The fold (below) is required to make a mitered corner. *** After trimming threads and rotating the quilt so the stitched binding is running perpendicular to the foot, fold the binding strip straight up. *** When you do this you'll see a 45 degree angle from the corner of the quilt to the folded corner of the binding. Keeping the top fold steady, lay the binding down over itself, so the 45 degree angle is preserved under the top layer and the straight fold is along the top edge of the quilt. Begin stitching a 1/4" seam allowance at the top fold. Stitch to within 1/4" of the next quilt corner and repeat the process. Repeat the folding and stitching process at the next corner. After you've mitered all 4 corners you'll be headed down the last side of the quilt (The side where you started the binding). *** Stop stitching at least 6" (longer if you can) from the Beginning Tail of the quilt. *** You'll now have a beginning tail that is un-stitched and an end tail that is un-stitched. Remove quilt from the machine bed and trim threads. *** Lift the beginning tail up and fold it out of the way. *** Smooth the "End tail" down along the raw edge. Be sure there are no puckers or folds and that it rests flat against the quilt. Now unfold the "Beginning Tail" and position it over top of the "End Tail" -- making sure that both tails are smooth and are without puckers and are flat against the quilt back. Now you'll place a pin in the "End Tail" just a couple of threads away from the Point of the "Beginning Tail". *** Mark this position with a Pin through the top layer of fabric only (only through the accent fabric on the End Tail, do not pin the primary). Another image after putting a pin through the top layer only of the "End Tail" right at the point (pointed fold) of the "Beginning Tail". Now, I use my left hand to unfold the End Tail. Keep the right side of the fabric facing up The Pin should remain on your right and the primary fabric will unfold to the left. Next you'll unfold the Beginning Tail so that the right side is facing DOWN and wrong side is facing you. 2nd image of the Beginning Tail unfolded with wrong side of fabric facing up. The tricky part is positioning the Beginning Tail so it is perpendicular to the End Tail *** Align the Beginning Tail "Point" at the End Tail "Pin" and secure with pins (Thanks Lisa!) Here is where the crease from the fold comes into play -- you're going to stitch on the fold making the finished mitered seam. (Be sure NOT to stitch through the quilt -- only stitch the binding) After Stitching on the Fold Before cutting excess fabric, fold the binding closed again (wrong sides together) and check to ensure that the binding is right sized and not twisted. *** This is a very important step -- do NOT Skip ;) *** Once you've double checked the length and positioning (no twists) of the binding you can trim the mitered finish to a 1/4" seam allowance. Finger Press or Iron Press the seam open Lay the binding along the raw edge and finish sewing it to the back of the quilt with a 1/4" seam allowance being sure to pickup a few stitches into where you stopped and started. You're almost to the FUN PART!!! Roll the Binding from Back to Front of Quilt & Prepare to Machine Stitch: Yippee!! Once you've finished securing the mitered finish on the back of the quilt, you get to roll the binding around to the front of the quilt and admire the beautiful flange... *** I just LOVE the look of the flange added to this binding... Prepare the front of the quilt for machine stitching Prepare each corner by tucking the bottom of the binding fabric into the corner and folding the top of the binding to make a 45 degree angle (or mitered corner). *** Secure with Wonder Clips (love those little clips). After the tuck and fold you should see a perfectly mitered corner -- ready for stitching Secure that corner with another Wonder Clip Next... Top stitch the Flange Binding Use a 90/14 top stitch needle in your machine Choose thread colors that complement your fabric. *** Both the Top and Bobbin thread will be completely visible when you're done stitching. *** Use Aurifil 50Wt or 40Wt thread in your Bobbin Use Aurifil 12Wt thread on Top (my favorite) Set a straight stitch length to 3.0 or higher (a nice "top stitch" length). You may have to adjust your top tension down a bit (try it on a test swatch first). *** Start stitching near a corner, taking smaller stitches to secure the start. *** Note: No need to stitch in the ditch. Show off that awesome Aurifil 12Wt thread by stitching well on the flange You may have to fuss when you get into a corner so there is a stitch just before the miter and one just after you turn the quilt top Slowly stitch all the way around the quilt top to secure the binding and finish with smaller stitches to secure your threads. Doesn't it look just beautiful ? Here is an image of the front (left) and the back (right)... Love, love, love! I hope you found this tutorial helpful. Thanks again to Lisa Bongean (Primitive Gatherings) and Kimberly from the Fat Quarter Shop for sharing the steps for the mitered finish. See links above. *** This binding and the awesome Auriful thread adds great dimension to a quilt top and is admired by all who see it! *** I especially love it because I can do the work by machine and save a little time preparing samples. It's also great if your gifting the quilt to a little person, where a hand-sewn binding might not hold up under wear and tear and tugs... * Thanks for stopping by today -- leave me a comment and let me know what you think Also -- I would love if you share this tutorial on social media AND if you send me pictures of any work you create with it. *** Be sure to follow me on social media (below) for fun and inspiring posts!. See My Tutorials (tab on top of blog) for more detailed and free tutorials and patterns. Is your Shop, Group or Guild preparing for upcoming Programs? I'm offering In-Person and ZOOM based programs. Click HERE to learn more about my featured programs. You can write me anytime: [email protected] or [email protected] Upcoming Retreats!! Did you know? I've teamed up with Wendy Sheppard to share the CraZy Quilting Girls Free Motion Quilting Retreats. Join us June 2023 for the Piecing and Quilting Retreat Click here for more information on the 2023 Piecing and Quilting Retreat. *** Follow Me *** Did you know you can visit me on Facebook at Redbird Quilt Co and/or Follow Redbird Quilt Co on Instagram I post all sorts of fun things there!! ** If you love to Free Motion Quilt consider joining my Facebook Community Group Free Motion Quilting Frenzy group * Plus I share quilting related videos on my YouTube Channel * I'm also on Pinterest and I share other tutorials and patterns on My Tutorials on my blog Thanks for stopping by today... ~ Blessings ~ Karen Note: This post may contain Affiliate Links. If you purchase anything through these links I may be compensated for the purchase. I promise to only recommend those products I know and love -- especially those with fantastic prices!

Keep your creative juices flowing with over 100 free quilt blocks rounded up in one place. Includes everything from basics, traditional and paper piecing.

Kawandi is a style of quilt created by the Siddi people of India, traditionally done by hand. It is truly scrappy and improvisational. While I like doing hand work, I was also intrigued by faster machine methods. I've listed some resources at the end of this tutorial if you are interested in creating Kawandi by hand, want to see another machine tutorial, want to see some footage of Siddi creating Kawandi by hand, and a discussion of creating Kawandi in your own style. This tutorial describes a new way of creating Kawandi by machine. These are NOT traditional Kawandi, but inspired by the joy and movement of Kawandi-style. I started with a background piece of fabric approximately 8x10", a piece of batting of the same size, and many scraps of batiks or quilting cottons. 1) Place the background over the batting, right side up (this is a quilt as you go technique, so the batting is incorporated from the beginning. 2) Place 4 scraps in the corners, right side DOWN - NOTE I'm using batiks in these examples, so its hard to tell that these pieces are upside down. In this image, you are looking at what will be the WRONG side of those scrap corners. 3) Begin UNDERLAPPING adjoining scraps into the corners. Fold approximately 1/4 inch on the side that will go UNDER the corner. Again, the scraps are placed upside down. Pin the piece in place along the edge. This will be machine sewn. 4) When you get to the next corner, fold the 1/4 inch on both sides of the scrap because it will go under 2 pieces of fabric. 5) Continue folding and underlapping scraps, pinning along the outer edge until you get the entire edge filled. Notice that it doesn't matter if you use short scraps, or long scraps. And again, its impossible to tell from this image because I'm using batiks, but you are looking at the right side of the background, and the WRONG side of the colorful scraps. 6) Sew 1/4 in seam all the way around the edge, removing pins as you come to them. 7) Clip the 4 corners close to the seam, being careful not to cut the thread. 8) Turn right side out by flipping each scrap over the seam. Use a tool to poke out or pull out the corners. There should be no raw edges of fabric along the edge of the piece because they are either in the seam OR they are folded under. 9) Carefully press the outer edge - taking care not to press the batting, as it might melt depending on fiber content. 10) The result is a piece with finished edges like this: 11) Top stitch close to the edge, This will secure all the folded under edges of each scrap. 12) When you are on the 4th side, approaching the beginning of your stitch line, turn the corner about 1/4" or 3/8" before you get there, to start the 'spiral' of stitching. The next steps are done just like Kawandi by hand, but you continue sewing on the machine. 13) To place the next piece, fold under 2 edges. Finger press or iron as necessary. Overlap the unfinished edges of previous scraps. 14) to place a color into a long strip, fold under 3 edges, staying aware of where you will place another scrap to overlap. 15) To keep a small scrap straight as you sew over the edge, it may be necessary to use long tweezers or stiletto. 16) Continue placing scraps and sewing in concentric rectangles, into the center. Note: this picture is from another project than the ones above. 17) Prepare the final scrap by folding under all 4 sides, and sewing the ever smaller rectangles/squares of stitching. 18) For the piece made of batiks, I decided the center "squares" looked better on the diagonal. Although not traditional at all, I've already broken so many 'rules', that I just decided to make this mine. Also, I'm aware that traditional Kawandi have 'folded flowers' in the 4 corners. Include them if you wish. Make it yours! Paula RESOURCES: How to make a Kawandi by hand by Kieren Dutcher https://youtu.be/yFd0xEfKeto How to make a Kawandi by machine (with binding) by Mel Beach https://pieceloveandhappiness.blogspot.com/2019/03/modern-kawandi-making.html Margaret Fabrizio travels to India to learn Kawandi from Siddi quilters: https://youtu.be/WqdIswL96q4 Margaret Fabrizio shows her own Kawandi quilts, and talks about making them in her own style. https://youtu.be/4NRxqOqp_UA

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Some of the links below are affiliate links, meaning, at no additional cost to you, I may earn a small commission from the sale if you click through and purchase. Are you scared of sewing with curves? Have no fear! Today I am sharing a few tips and tricks that have been helpful for me. Give this post a read and try out the Sunroom Quilt Pattern. The quilt pattern above is The Natural Harmony Quilt Pattern . 1. Sew slow. It's tempting to put the pedal to the metal when you're comfortable sewing, but with curves it's all about slow sewing. You want to take your time and ease that curve slowly through the machine. 2. Needle Down. I set my machine in the needle down position when I sew. That means every time I lift my foot off the pedal the machine stops with the needle down. This helps to hold all the layers in place so that I can lift the presser foot and adjust around the curve. This will help you make that curve nice and smooth. Every few stitches, I raise the foot and turn the fabric slightly around the curve. 3. Pin, Pin, Pin!! Don't be stingy with those pins. As you pin your curved pieces together make sure you pin all the way around that curve to the very end. I also find it most helpful to start in the middle, work my way to one end, back to the middle and to the other end. 4. Steam Iron. I personally find that using steam is helpful. First of all it helps work out all those wrinkles from the pins so you can see if there are any puckers. Second, I think it helps ease out any accidental puckers if there are any. This is simply personal preference. I know there are mixed opinions on using a steam iron while quilting. I make sure not to pull or stretch the fabric too much since the steam will cause that to happen on it's own a little. 5. Tailor's Clapper! Alright this might be a new tool you haven't heard of before. I use this handmade clapper from Lamb and Loom. It makes such a difference to me! When I'm ready to press I open the seam, press and then quickly place the clapper over the seam and let it sit while I move on to the next piece. Then I repeat that process. The clapper helps to hold the heat on the seam and really make it crisp! I'm hooked on my clapper. The pattern above makes great practice - The Natural Harmony Quilt Pattern. If you feel like you can conquer the curves try out the Sunroom Quilt Pattern. This pattern was my first attempt at sewing curves. You can do this! You have all the skills you need now. Good luck! Here are some additional blog posts you might enjoy: Sewing with Triangles Quilting Curves Making Half-Square Triangles The quilt pattern above is The Natural Harmony Quilt Pattern.

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I know there are lots of zippered pouch tutorials out there, and they're great, but I haven't found one that explains how to make the ends of the zipper more finished. Once I figured out how to do this, I thought I'd share. This tutorial is more about the zipper ends than it is about the finished pouch. Though I am going to tell you how big I cut everything, you can easily make these pouches any size you want. I tried to take a lot of pictures, but if anything is unclear, please let me know! Supplies: (2) Exterior pieces, I cut mine 8.5" x 6.5" (2) Lining pieces, mine are 8.5" x 6.25" (1) 2"x4" piece of exterior fabric to cover the zipper ends (2) pieces of medium weight fusible interfacing OR fusible fleece the same size as your exterior pieces. The interfacing you use will determine the feel of your pouch. The mid-weight interfacing, I used Decor Bond by Pellon, gives the pouch a bit more stiffness while the fleece will make the pouch more soft and pliable. ***UPDATE Shape Flex (SF 101) is what I use most often now. It bends nicely with the fabric since it's woven. You can also use it in conjunction with Decor Bond or fusible fleece. (1) zipper--Mine is 7" The rule of thumb here is to have your exterior pouch length be 1.5" longer than your zipper. So in my case, the length is 8.5" so I used a 7" zipper. Trim the corners of the fusible interfacing to reduce bulk and fuse to the exterior of your pouch. Trim the ends of the zipper to where the little "stoppers" on the zipper are. Fold the 2"x4" piece of exterior fabric in half lengthwise and press. Open it back up and fold in one side to the crease you just made and press. Repeat for the other side. Fold again along the original center crease and press. Cut the skinny 4" strip in half to create two .5"x 2" pieces. Open up one piece and tuck one end of the zipper in. See what I'm doing? Sew about 1/8" away from the edge next to the zipper. You can try and use pins to hold the tab in place, but I found the piece to be so small that it's easier for me to hold it. Repeat for the other side. This side will be a bit trickier since you will have to unzip the zipper and hold the two free pieces together as they would be when the zipper is closed. Again, you can try to pin, but I get better results (i.e. less shifting) by just holding it. Trim the extra fabric away from the zipper tabs. You should end up with something like this. With your lining right side up, place your finished zipper on top and center it. This is easy to do on your cutting mat--use the ruler markings to make sure it's even on both sides. Place your interfaced exterior fabric right side down on top of the lining. See? Right sides together, sandwiching the zipper in between. There are other ways to attach the zipper to the fabric where you can actually see the zipper while sewing, but I like this method. If you want to do it another way, go for it! Pin in place. You can see in this picture, it looks as if the lining has shifted a bit, but it is just from the pining along the top. The top edge is straight with the exterior, interior, and zipper lined up. I'm not going to lie, this is the trickiest part. Put on your zipper foot, take a deep breath, and sew about 1/4" away from the top edge. You are essentially doing this Stevie Wonder style since you can't see the zipper, but you can feel it! The first 1/2" near the zipper pull is the hardest and you may have to tug on the end or push it through for a bit. Just go slow. Once you make it past the pull, it's really easy. I leave my pins in and sew over them. This, I have found, is critical to keep all three layers lined up. I have as yet to break a needle, but I have broken a few pins. I'd much rather risk a broken pin than bring out my seam ripper because my layers shifted. You should now have something like this. Use your iron to press the lining away from the zipper. Press the exterior fabric down too. To give the exterior a more finished look and to secure the lining from getting caught in the zipper, I top stitch the exterior about 1/8" away from edge near the zipper. I know I'm not using my zipper foot correctly here, but it worked so stop laughing! Truthfully, I'm never sure I'm using it correctly, I just do whatever works to get a zipper attached. Rules be damned! Now it's time to attach your other lining and exterior pieces. You do this the same way you did before only now you have some fabric attached to your zipper. No biggie! Repeat my previous instructions on pining the layers and sewing on the zipper. Remember to top stitch the exterior on the other side, we want your pouch to look pretty! It should look like this now. The next step is super important. Are you paying attention? Don't skip this part! If you've printed this out, highlight this part: OPEN UP THE STINKIN' ZIPPER! You will be cursing yourself and making best friends with your seam ripper if you forget that! We're going to pin the exterior and lining right sides together, but first, we need to sort of fold/smush the zipper toward the exterior. See how I'm pinching it? Pinch it into place where everything is lining up--you can see how the top edges of the exterior fabric would line up if I squeezed them together, right? Pin that little guy in place! Continue pinning around all the edges. UPDATE: You *can* do this step and have the zipper pushed toward the interior, I guess when I made this one I just found this way worked for me to keep things lined up. Since making this tutorial, I find myself always pushing the zipper teeth toward the lining instead. Maybe this pouch was a freak of nature, who knows! Feel free to experiment to find what works best for you! Here's what it looks like all pinned together. Starting in the middle of the lining, about 2" away from the corner, using a 5/8" seam allowance, sew a few stitches and back stitch. We are going to leave an opening in the lining so you need to secure the stitches so your pouch won't come apart when you turn it. I leave the pins in for this step too! When you sew past the zipper/tab area, you may have to pull or push a bit since there are so many layers, just go slow. When you reach the exterior fabric, I sew slightly less than 5/8", more like 1/2", so that the lining will be a tiny bit smaller than the exterior and fit better into the pouch when I turn it. You don't have to do this. You can sew with the same seam allowance around the entire pouch. **update--so you understand, sew very very close to the tab, but not through it. When you get back to the lining side, leave a 3" opening or so for you to turn your pouch. Remember to backstitch at the beginning and end of either side of the opeing! Trust me, I know this from experience. If you fail to backstitch this bad boy can come part on you--the turning process can be rough on stitches! Hi there! You will soon be pulling the entire pouch through that tiny hole! It's a bit like child birth. :) But first! Clip your corners! Careful, don't clip your stitches! Now push! he he! Push, pull, finangle, shimmey the exterior fabric through the open zipper and then through the hole in the lining. Keep going. It's a messy job. Whew! Now use something pointy, but not sharp, to push out the corners of the exterior fabric. Also use the tool to push out/up the finished ends of the zipper. Wrinkly, but lookin' good! Now iron the lining down a bit. Sew the lining hole shut. My raw edges naturally turned under once I turned it, but if yours don't, just fold them in and press then sew the opening shut. You can hand sew this closed if you care about seeing the stitching, but I don't. It's at the bottom of the pouch, a pouch that is meant to be used, so surely the stuff you put in it will hide the stitching, right? My thoughts exactly! Yay! Tuck the lining inside and...... you're done! See how pretty the ends are? Now, what to put inside?

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