I'm a life long hobby enthusiast...
So much fun was had this weekend as I played with my fabric and experimented with a new gift idea. I recall seeing this idea months ago, maybe on the Moda website, and have been waiting for a good time to try it out....Chenille Trivits (aka hot pads). So I pulled out a mixture of fun fat quarters and larger scrap pieces and let the fun begin. Materials Needed: 5 - 10"squares using 5 different fabrics 1 - 10" square 100% Cotton batting 1 - 2 1/2" x width of coordinating fabric (approx. 43") for binding Choose a piece for the back side of your trivit and place it face down on your work table... Then place batting on top of backing fabric square..... Next layer remaining 4 fabric squares face up..... Draw a line diagonally in the center, from one corner to another. Use a few pins to keep your 6 layer sandwich together. Because of the many layers, it will be best if your use a walking foot (or if you own a Pfaff, you already have the integrated walking foot feature built in). Sew the first diagonal seam using the drawn line as your guide.... The next step will take a little time. Continue to sew diagonal lines approximately 3/8" apart, using the previous seam as your guide. I was excited to have an opportunity to use a pressure foot called "adjustable guide foot" that I purchased years ago. Most machines come with a guide bar you can attach for this purpose, or you can just eyeball it if your pretty talented at sewing straight lines on your own. :) The back of my Trivit...... Time to square it up....either to 9 or 9 1/2" square....your choice.... Now the fun, yet scary part.....cutting between the seams to make the chenille. IMPORTANT....MAKE SURE YOU ONLY CUT THROUGH THE TOP 3 LAYERS OF FABRIC! DON'T ACCIDENTALLY CUT THE 4TH LAYER THAT IS AGAINST THE BATTING!!!!! You can use a Chenille cutter, or you can use sharp small scissors. I did it both ways to make sure it could be done. :) In my case, I placed the lime green fabric on top of the batting, so it's my 4th layer and I don't want to cut through it....on this one I used my Olfa Chenille cutter....placing the plastic guard between the 3rd and 4th fabric layers.... Continue cutting between all diagonal seams.... For the second Trivit, I used a small, sharp pair of Fiskers scissors.....Again.....place blades between the 3rd and 4th fabric layers...... After cutting between all seams, it's time to bind your trivit. I chose to machine sew binding to the BACK of the trivit first...... Then I machine sewed the front side of the binding..... I'm certain you can attach the binding using your favorite method. :) Since I was having fun, I cut more fabric and batting to make a couple more.... ALMOST finished...but still one more step required before my four trivits are completely done. Time for the last and best part.......to get the full effect of the chenille process the trivits need to be thrown in the washing machine with a load of towels and machine dried. Just look how they fluff up and the different colored fabrics create a unique design. Aren't they just the cutest things? A view of the back.... Are you planning to make a few yourself now? Make them in any size your choose, larger or smaller, you can't make a mistake.
We all have them - quilts that start off as projects and become one of the following: UFOs (Unfinished Objects), PHDs (Projects Half Done), PIGS, (Projects in Grocery Sacks), WIPs (Works in Progress), WISP (Works in Slow Progress), or the worst of fates: WOMBAT (Waste of Money, Batting, and Time). All these terms give me a chuckle when I read about them. My storage area has a few, and I've decided to coin my own term for them: CPQs or Crock Pot Quilts. These are quilts that are on "slow-cook" and will be "done" at some point in time. Working on these projects will be my goal for 2021. I'm sure I will succumb to the siren call of a rogue quilt-along, but I really want to finish at least a quilt or two from this group of UFOs. Bear with me as I document them on this post to serve as my reference point. Feel free to click on the links I've included, which are either previous posts about them or links to the patterns. They are in random order, and my oldest Crock Pot Quilt is from 2014! Crochet Quilt - started in 2019, pattern by Joanna Figueroa; all pieces cut, four blocks completed Lost Stars Quilt - started in 2020 as a quilt my husband quickly claimed, inspired by blocks made by @pamalamajodesigns on Instagram; 25 6-inch blocks completed; final size TBD Butterfly Garden Quilt - started in 2019 as my entry in the 2019 Pantone Color of the Year Quilt Challenge; pattern Home Awaits by Busy Hands Quilts; flimsy completed. Guns and Roses - started in 2019 in an Instagram QAL; pattern Meadowland by Then Came June; flimsy completed. Intended as a quilt for our living room. Math Class Quilt - started in 2014 (!) intended as a Christmas gift for my daughter; pattern Math Class by Sweetwater; pieces cut, a few blocks completed Elizabeth's Dowry Quilt - started in 2018, originally intended as a quilt for our bed; pattern Elizabeth's Dowry by Marcus Fabrics; fabrics are vintage-y and not in line with our current bedroom style, but I still might use it on the bed. Quilty Stars - started in 2019, pattern Quilty Stars by Emily Dennis; HSTs cut and waiting to be trimmed. Antique Quilt Revival - purchased an older quilt in antique store for $25.00 in 2018; plan to restore it. Craftsman - started in 2018 as a quilt for my DIY husband; fabrics feature tools; I would very much like to finish this one and present it to him! Farm Girl Vintage - started in 2015 as a QAL; blocks are from Farm Girl Vintage book by Lori Holt; blocks are complete and need sashing. My daughter wants this one. Lone Star Flag Quilt - started in 2017 as a surprise for my husband; pattern Lone Star Flag purchased from Lisa at Aspen Tree Shop, which is no longer online but I found her on Instagram as @thingsherelately; all pieces cut, and I had them all laid out to begin piecing and have no idea why I put them away. This list is by no means complete, but it is a good start for me! What are your goals for 2021?
Hello! My blog has been hibernating since my last post in December ( I am more active on Facebook and Etsy) so what better way to start spring blogging with the best quilt festival online !!! This …
When a Quilt Girl met a Train Guy it was love... by the yard Quilting comics Read more quilting comics > Model railroading comics Read more model railroading comics >
Quilters, looking for a chuckle or a funny line to put on a card for a quilting friend? Find it here in this list of 30 humorous sayings from NewQuilters.com.
Laughter is the best medicine and it's time for a big dose of happy. Kick up your feet and enjoy some of the most liked/pinned/shared sewing and quilting memes/comics. So many misconceptions about what a sewist really does. Honestly, I'd say most of my time is spent finding the tools I just had in my hand a second ago.
Sewing Memes For Crafty People - Funny memes that "GET IT" and want you to too. Get the latest funniest memes and keep up what is going on in the meme-o-sphere.
We recently had a student in one of our classes share with us a list of quilting and fabric-buying acronyms that we loved. We want to share ...
One of my favorite things to do…when I am not sewing…is have fun with graphics. I make a lot of sewing memes and other images that are only shared on my social media pages. In an effort to bring them all into one place, I thought it would be a great idea to do a […]
Laughter is the best medicine and it's time for a big dose of happy. Kick up your feet and enjoy some of the most liked/pinned/shared sewing and quilting memes/comics. So many misconceptions about what a sewist really does. Honestly, I'd say most of my time is spent finding the tools I just had in my hand a second ago.
Tutorial for using bias binding for finishing a quilt including cutting your own bias binding strips and how to finish rounded quilt corners.
Did you see my Scrapbusting Challenge for Island Batik for March? You can see it HERE. The following is about one of the quilts I made for the challenge. I was scheduled to take a Ruler Quilting co…
I couldn't sleep and was bored so I Googled Funny Quilting Pictures. Enjoy! My husband laughed at some and said, "So, men who are marrie...
We've always wanted to make a flower quilt, but haven't yet gotten it off the ground (so to speak). In the meantime, we keep adding flowers...
I was looking for some embroidery designs the other day when I came across Urban Threads. This might have to become my new logo. I admit it, I am a-DORK-able. Check out their website for more adorable machine and hand embroidery designs, project ideas, clipart, and FREE patterns (because we all like getting something for free once in a while.
Laughter is the best medicine and it's time for a big dose of happy. Kick up your feet and enjoy some of the most liked/pinned/shared sewing and quilting memes/comics. So many misconceptions about what a sewist really does. Honestly, I'd say most of my time is spent finding the tools I just had in my hand a second ago.
Bonnie Hunter of Quiltville.com just released her 5th step in her recent mystery "Roll Roll Cotton Boll" and we are now faced with 600 HSTs!!!!!!! Oh and by the way they are 1.5" finished. Here's an easy way to do 8 at once: Unfinished Size HST Needed: If you need a different size, feel free to email me. For RRCB you will use 4.5" squares. Draw two lines diagonally, and one horizontally, and one vertically. Your half line will be at the 2.25" mark. With your two squares Right Sides Together, stitch a SCANT 1/4" from each diagonal line. Cut on your diagonal lines. Then cut on your other drawn lines, Vertically, and horizontally (cut the previous cuts in half) Trim dog ears, Press and Voila! This quilt is now available in Bonnie Hunter's Quilting book called "String Fling"
Each year, the Modern Quilt Guild curates a small selection of quilts from the show and creates the Best of QuiltCon Traveling Show. Last year I was honored to have my Cabana quilt included in the Best of QuiltCon show. (Did I mention that my quilts travel more than I do!) I was super excited to
Sew your own kitty quilt with Jo Carter's cat quilt pattern. You'll love sewing this cutie then hanging him on your wall. Make your own cat quilt today!
Laughter is the best medicine and it's time for a big dose of happy. Kick up your feet and enjoy some of the most liked/pinned/shared sewing and quilting memes/comics. So many misconceptions about what a sewist really does. Honestly, I'd say most of my time is spent finding the tools I just had in my hand a second ago.
This past Saturday I taught a workshop on the One Block Wonder Technique at the Eastern branch of the Irish Patchwork Society. It was a busy but satisfying day and I think the participants enjoyed it. I don't have a lot of photos from the day, but I thought I'd share those which have resulting blocks in them (pity I don't have everybody's), as well as the tips we were able to take away from the day. I'm really looking forward to seeing the finished quilts, though finalizing the layouts may take quite some time. This is a picture I wanted to print out, but didn't manage to get to the printers'. It sums up what we did on the day very well (both the picture and the phrase were found on the Web). I will not run through the whole process of making a One Block Wonder quilt (there are a lot of tutorials around on the Web), but I do want to share some tips which proved handy and/or were learned the hard way. 1. When choosing the fabric, pay attention to its color way - the pattern will change beyond all recognition, but the colors will stay the same. 2. For the first stage of the process - identifying your pattern repeat - it's handy to use a tailor's yardstick or any piece of board/plank that has a long straight edge. Alternatively, you can tape together two quilting rulers. 3. Some fabrics have their prints printed straighter than others. Don't be afraid to shift and wiggle your fabric to align the pattern. Once it's aligned, handle it with care to keep it that way. 4. Use flat pins to keep together your six layers while you're cutting. They don't have to be removed from the fabric when they get under the ruler, so your strips will remain aligned and won't shift. 5. Although most tutorials call for cutting 3 3/4 in strips, you don't really have to stick to this number. Measure the width of your repeat - in some fabrics it will not divide by 3 3/4, so to avoid wasting too much of your fabric you can choose a different strip width, say 3 1/2 in of maybe 4 in. Another thing to consider is the scale of your pattern. If it's on the smallish side, decrease the width of your strips. 6. Using a 60 degree triangle ruler with a "blunted" corner saves you a bit of fabric width when cutting the triangles. The blunted corner can also be handy to mark your central corner when piecing the triangles together. However, you don't really need a special ruler for this technique, any ruler with a a 60 degree line on it will do the job too. 7. Make sure your ruler has a horizontal line matching the edge of your strip. If it doesn't, create a line by sticking a piece of tape to the ruler - this will ensure all of the angles in your triangles are 60 degrees, and thus, all of the sides in your triangles are equal. 8. When piecing your triangles keep them in strict order, and always keep the center corners facing one way (for example, away from you) or mark the center corners with a pin, then your piecing process will be fast and smooth. 9. After you've assembled and pressed your half-hexies, keep them together with a piece of masking tape on the back while you're playing with the layout. 10. The layout is a very personal process, but I would still point out two important things - lay out all your blocks to see if there is any "focal" color that really jumps out at you; if there is, start the composition with the blocks that have most of this focal color and create some sort of shape of line with them, then arrange the other blocks around. This is a quilt I made before with the same lilac fabric. I chose to arrange the purple/pink blocks in a sort of wave with the greens supporting the shape. 11. When playing with the layout, snap photos of every variant, even if you don't really like it - the pictures make it easier to evaluate, compare and discuss your layout with other people, you might spot something you can't see up close and personal. On the whole this is a very fast and satisfying technique, definitely worth trying, at least to gain a new perspective on the use of pattern in fabric and the potential of fabrics you probably never considered suitable for quilting. UPD: If you're wondering what came out of that fabric, here's the finally finished quilt Linking up to Tips and Tutorials Tuesday at Quilting Jetgirl
Here is a page full of ideas for games and activities that you can do at your quilt guild meeting. Your quilting group will have fun!
Today I'm excited to share a Mitered & Flanged Machine Binding Tutorial. *** It's fun, saves time and looks awesome!! *** Don't be overwhelmed by the number of steps -- after you do it once or twice it will become old hat... I know you'll love it. *** It works nicely for samples, baby blankets, and quilts that will be washed and worn!! (or if you're in a plain old hurry ;) It's the whopper of machine binding tutorials because I decided to include steps for a Mitered Finish as inspired by a YouTube video by Lisa Bongean (Primitive Gatherings) with Kimberly at The Fat Quarter Shop. ** I followed Lisa's steps to prepare the mitered finish -- AND included a link to their (most helpful) video in this tutorial. After watching the video be sure to leave a comment or give it a "thumbs up" -- it's an awesome learning tool! ** Note, the YouTube video does not include instructions for the Flange OR the Machine Finish - it explains nicely though, how to prepare mitered corners and a mitered finish -- it's a great tool and video and helped me tremendously with the mitered finish. Thanks so much ladies !! OK - Let's get started: We're going to make this sweet little flanged binding by machine with mitered corners, a mitered finish and with beautiful top-stitching to show off your pretty Aurifil threads! Begin by choosing a primary and an accent (flange) fabric. * Add in a complementary 50Wt thread for piecing and a 12Wt thread for top stitching. I chose from my #AuriStash -- #Aurifil thread is always my first choice {love}. Determine Length of Binding Needed: Calculate the total length of binding needed by adding the length of each of the 4 sides and adding an extra 10" to the number. * The sampler was 18" square. 18 + 18 + 18 + 18 + 10. = 82 inches. I assumed I could squeeze 41 usable inches per WOF strip, so I cut 2 strips of each the primary and the accent fabric. Cut the Primary and Accent fabric strips: Cut the primary fabric 1&7/16" wide. I did not have 16 of an inch marks on my ruler, so I split the width between 3/8 and 1/2 to achieve 7/16th of an inch. Now cut the accent fabric 1&3/4" wide (by the number of strips you need). Showing: Strips after cutting the correct number of Primary and Accent NOTE: When using solid colors, I sometimes place a pin in the right side of the fabric so I can tell the right side from the wrong side of the fabric. Piece Binding Strips to Achieve Necessary Length: Now you want to prepare the total length of binding. The sample required 82" so I pieced two WOF strips together at an angle (mitered seams). Be sure that your diagonal line is marked correctly before sewing and cutting. After testing the positioning of the fabric and diagonal line, stitch along the marked line with a straight stitch. (Excuse my wonky straight line - it was Free Motion Stitched ;). After stitching, remove the pins and check to ensure you have a continuous length before trimming. Now fold right sides together and trim the seam allowance to 1/4", trimming the tabs too and pressing open to reduce bulk. Repeat the above steps for the primary fabric. Now you've prepared the correct (total) length of each the primary and accent fabrics. Sew Primary and Accent Fabrics Together Lengthwise & Press: Next you'll layer the primary and accent strips right sides together, aligning one raw edge. Sew along the edge with a 1/4" seam allowance Showing the sewn raw edge Position binding on an ironing surface with the Primary fabric on top. Press flat to set the seam Next open the fabric and press the seam toward the Primary fabric. Showing after binding is pressed open toward the Primary fabric Showing back after pressing toward the Primary Fabric Next you'll fold the wrong sides together, aligning the raw edges and gently press the length of binding. I press gently so the fold IS NOT Crisp or Flattened. *** Attach prepared binding to Quilt Back: This section of the tutorial was inspired by a YouTube tutorial prepared by Lisa Bongean (Primitive Gatherings) with Kimberly of the Fat Quarter Shop. You can view that YouTube tutorial here: "How to Add a Double Fold Binding to Quilts" The section applicable to this tutorial starts around the 2:00 minute mark and continues to the 3:40 minute mark. *** Keep in mind Lisa is attaching to the front of her quilt and finishing by hand (on back) -- we will attach to the back of the quilt and finish with machine on the front. *** Continuing... attach binding quilt back: Working on the BACK of the quilt, position the binding right side down with the Primary fabric to the right (aligning raw edge of Primary fabric with raw edge of quilt back). Next fold the top right corner to the left, wrong sides together, to make a 45 degree angle and press. Now fold the binding wrong sides together so both of the binding raw edges are aligned with the raw edges of the quilt back. *** Position the binding about 1/2 way down the side of the quilt. *** You'll need space above the binding to complete the mitered finish. *** You will begin stitching the binding about 6" from the point shown below. Leave at least 5" of the binding un-stitched (pin but don't stitch) and begin stitching with a 1/4" seam allowance. *** Stop a 1/4" from the quilt corner (I marked my 1/4" with a pin - see below). *** When you stop at the 1/4" mark, be sure your needle is in the down position. Showing, stop stitching 1/4" from the quilt corner. Now lift the presser foot and pivot the quilt layers so you can stitch off the edge of the quilt at a 45 degree angle. Showing: After stitching up to corner and with a 45 degree angle to the corner of the quilt Next, trim threads and rotate the quilt counter-clockwise and prepare for the mitered fold. The fold (below) is required to make a mitered corner. *** After trimming threads and rotating the quilt so the stitched binding is running perpendicular to the foot, fold the binding strip straight up. *** When you do this you'll see a 45 degree angle from the corner of the quilt to the folded corner of the binding. Keeping the top fold steady, lay the binding down over itself, so the 45 degree angle is preserved under the top layer and the straight fold is along the top edge of the quilt. Begin stitching a 1/4" seam allowance at the top fold. Stitch to within 1/4" of the next quilt corner and repeat the process. Repeat the folding and stitching process at the next corner. After you've mitered all 4 corners you'll be headed down the last side of the quilt (The side where you started the binding). *** Stop stitching at least 6" (longer if you can) from the Beginning Tail of the quilt. *** You'll now have a beginning tail that is un-stitched and an end tail that is un-stitched. Remove quilt from the machine bed and trim threads. *** Lift the beginning tail up and fold it out of the way. *** Smooth the "End tail" down along the raw edge. Be sure there are no puckers or folds and that it rests flat against the quilt. Now unfold the "Beginning Tail" and position it over top of the "End Tail" -- making sure that both tails are smooth and are without puckers and are flat against the quilt back. Now you'll place a pin in the "End Tail" just a couple of threads away from the Point of the "Beginning Tail". *** Mark this position with a Pin through the top layer of fabric only (only through the accent fabric on the End Tail, do not pin the primary). Another image after putting a pin through the top layer only of the "End Tail" right at the point (pointed fold) of the "Beginning Tail". Now, I use my left hand to unfold the End Tail. Keep the right side of the fabric facing up The Pin should remain on your right and the primary fabric will unfold to the left. Next you'll unfold the Beginning Tail so that the right side is facing DOWN and wrong side is facing you. 2nd image of the Beginning Tail unfolded with wrong side of fabric facing up. The tricky part is positioning the Beginning Tail so it is perpendicular to the End Tail *** Align the Beginning Tail "Point" at the End Tail "Pin" and secure with pins (Thanks Lisa!) Here is where the crease from the fold comes into play -- you're going to stitch on the fold making the finished mitered seam. (Be sure NOT to stitch through the quilt -- only stitch the binding) After Stitching on the Fold Before cutting excess fabric, fold the binding closed again (wrong sides together) and check to ensure that the binding is right sized and not twisted. *** This is a very important step -- do NOT Skip ;) *** Once you've double checked the length and positioning (no twists) of the binding you can trim the mitered finish to a 1/4" seam allowance. Finger Press or Iron Press the seam open Lay the binding along the raw edge and finish sewing it to the back of the quilt with a 1/4" seam allowance being sure to pickup a few stitches into where you stopped and started. You're almost to the FUN PART!!! Roll the Binding from Back to Front of Quilt & Prepare to Machine Stitch: Yippee!! Once you've finished securing the mitered finish on the back of the quilt, you get to roll the binding around to the front of the quilt and admire the beautiful flange... *** I just LOVE the look of the flange added to this binding... Prepare the front of the quilt for machine stitching Prepare each corner by tucking the bottom of the binding fabric into the corner and folding the top of the binding to make a 45 degree angle (or mitered corner). *** Secure with Wonder Clips (love those little clips). After the tuck and fold you should see a perfectly mitered corner -- ready for stitching Secure that corner with another Wonder Clip Next... Top stitch the Flange Binding Use a 90/14 top stitch needle in your machine Choose thread colors that complement your fabric. *** Both the Top and Bobbin thread will be completely visible when you're done stitching. *** Use Aurifil 50Wt or 40Wt thread in your Bobbin Use Aurifil 12Wt thread on Top (my favorite) Set a straight stitch length to 3.0 or higher (a nice "top stitch" length). You may have to adjust your top tension down a bit (try it on a test swatch first). *** Start stitching near a corner, taking smaller stitches to secure the start. *** Note: No need to stitch in the ditch. Show off that awesome Aurifil 12Wt thread by stitching well on the flange You may have to fuss when you get into a corner so there is a stitch just before the miter and one just after you turn the quilt top Slowly stitch all the way around the quilt top to secure the binding and finish with smaller stitches to secure your threads. Doesn't it look just beautiful ? Here is an image of the front (left) and the back (right)... Love, love, love! I hope you found this tutorial helpful. Thanks again to Lisa Bongean (Primitive Gatherings) and Kimberly from the Fat Quarter Shop for sharing the steps for the mitered finish. See links above. *** This binding and the awesome Auriful thread adds great dimension to a quilt top and is admired by all who see it! *** I especially love it because I can do the work by machine and save a little time preparing samples. It's also great if your gifting the quilt to a little person, where a hand-sewn binding might not hold up under wear and tear and tugs... * Thanks for stopping by today -- leave me a comment and let me know what you think Also -- I would love if you share this tutorial on social media AND if you send me pictures of any work you create with it. *** Be sure to follow me on social media (below) for fun and inspiring posts!. See My Tutorials (tab on top of blog) for more detailed and free tutorials and patterns. Is your Shop, Group or Guild preparing for upcoming Programs? I'm offering In-Person and ZOOM based programs. Click HERE to learn more about my featured programs. You can write me anytime: [email protected] or [email protected] Upcoming Retreats!! Did you know? I've teamed up with Wendy Sheppard to share the CraZy Quilting Girls Free Motion Quilting Retreats. Join us June 2023 for the Piecing and Quilting Retreat Click here for more information on the 2023 Piecing and Quilting Retreat. *** Follow Me *** Did you know you can visit me on Facebook at Redbird Quilt Co and/or Follow Redbird Quilt Co on Instagram I post all sorts of fun things there!! ** If you love to Free Motion Quilt consider joining my Facebook Community Group Free Motion Quilting Frenzy group * Plus I share quilting related videos on my YouTube Channel * I'm also on Pinterest and I share other tutorials and patterns on My Tutorials on my blog Thanks for stopping by today... ~ Blessings ~ Karen Note: This post may contain Affiliate Links. If you purchase anything through these links I may be compensated for the purchase. I promise to only recommend those products I know and love -- especially those with fantastic prices!
13 Offensive Cross Stitches Featuring Animals - World's largest collection of cat memes and other animals
