If you're a quilter , you know the pain of having a huge fabric scrap pile and nothing to do
If you’re looking for the tutorial on machine quilting, you can find that here . One of my favourite ways to finish a quilt is to hand quilt- it takes a little (well, let’s be honest, much) longer than machine quilting but the hand finished product is completely worth it! I’ve included some photo
One thing you will notice if you visit a redwood forest…the people will all look up. You can’t resist, they are just amazing. This is done in my mosaic method with heavy quilting and sun rays highlighted. 31″ wide x 44″ tall This quilt was juried into and displayed at Pacific Int’l Quilt Festival in ... Read more
Hi friends! Today I have a really special (long) post for you! Today I want to share a quilt that took me two years and about 85 hours to...
Inspiration, tools and techniques for beautiful quilts
Hello quilty friends. Today I'm sharing a rainbow quilt that I made for a loved one. In the end I decided to gift another quilt to that person for several reasons, so this is just a "for fun" quilt at our house now! I'm not complaining :) The colors make me so happy. At 68" x 86", it's a very good size for a twin sized bed, so maybe that will be its purpose one day, who knows. If you're looking for the bright rainbow quilt post, go here! The pattern is as simple as they come, I really wanted the colors and quilting to shine! Plus this is the first quilt top I sewed as I was coming out of a very sick first trimester and the world felt overwhelming. I needed something really easy! I honestly think it took me longer to decide on colors than it did to make the quilt top. I kept reordering 1/4 yard cuts from Fabric Bubb and after about 4 tries I felt very happy with this muted rainbow of Kona solids. Fabric Requirements: (14) quarter yard cuts of colors. They will need to be cut very straight, so if you are buying from a store that isn't known for it's accurate and generous cutting, maybe get 1/3 yds. instead. Fabric Bubb won't do you wrong! 1 3/4 yds white fabric (more if you're using it for binding too) 5/8 yd binding fabric 5 yds backing Instructions: Cut the colored quarter yards into (2) 4.5" x WOF strips each. Trim off and square up the selvege ends, sew end to end for length, press the seam, and cut each strip to 4.5" x 68". I cut them in stacks of 4 or so. You will have some nice sized scraps for another project. I made a pillow and still had some left. Cut the white fabric into (24) 2.5" strips. Sew all of them end to end and press seams. It will be very long! Try to let it fall back and forth into a somewhat neatly folded pile as you make it, that way you won't have a tangled mess and it will come up easily as you sew it. With your colored strips, and your loooong white strip, you're ready to go! Here's how I did it. Sew a white strip along every colored strip, chain piecing as you go. In other words, I didn't cut any white until the end, just kept adding a new color strip as I went. Then trim them all up and press towards the colors. Using this method, you must be very careful not to tug on the white or let it pull down as you sew, or your white stripes will be wavy and bunched. If that way stresses you out, you can also just cut (15) 2.5" x 68" white strips and sew them in between every color. Sew the white strips and colors strips together alternately in your desired rainbow order (mine is listed in order above). Press toward the colors and your top is ready! Baste, quilt, and bind as desired. I had mine quilted with rainbow hearts by CrinkleLove. I had a mostly green backing picked out for this one, but when I saw the text print Sarah had available, I knew that was the right choice! I love it on the back of the colors. For binding I used the same white as the stripes. I've never used white binding before, but I really love it! Now to see how dirty it gets, ha. I planned the quilt dimensions so that they'd fit a twin bed, but we' don't have that size of bed at our house right now. I did discover that when using it on a toddler bed, you can get "boy" quilt or "girl" quilt colors by folding down alternate sides :) I hope you find this tutorial easy to understand. I didn't plan on making one originally, hence no progress pictures, but then I got a lot of questions about it. It's a great place for beginners to start, or a fast project for experienced quilters. As always, thank you for stopping by! This is my 100th post on this blog since I started in March 2016. I can hardly believe that, it doesn't seem like nearly that many. Thank you to those of you who follow along in this space. I'm happy to share it with you!
Using a walking foot is the easiest and quickest way to quilt borders. Continue reading for 7 easy border quilting ideas using a walking foot.
Why you should quilt pre-printed panels and what to watch out for. Join the discussion at www.cleverchameleon.com.au
Using a walking foot is the easiest and quickest way to quilt borders. Continue reading for 7 easy border quilting ideas using a walking foot.
Learn all about sewing binding on a quilt with our in-depth hands-on tutorial. We'll show you how to calculate binding, make binding for a quilt, and how to finish binding!
These are the nesting goodies that have been inspiring me lately. :) I'll do laundry everyday! // Via Beautiful, colorful blankets // Via Hanging fabric // Via Pillows & frames // Via Mixed-matched kitchen // Via Perfect reversible quilt // Via Sequin wall...whaa?! // Via I'm planning some more little nesting updates to our home soon, but I'm having a hard time motivating myself while we're looking to move within the year. To nest...or not to nest....??
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Using a walking foot is the easiest and quickest way to quilt borders. Continue reading for 7 easy border quilting ideas using a walking foot.
Pink Chunky Race Quilt Orange and Blue Baby Placemats and Table Runner Granny Square Patch Custom Heart Quilt Purple Diamonds Boundless Beauty Country Brick Trip Around the World Modern Baby in Greens Charming Plus Fire Within Alternate Ending Yellow and Gray Patchwork Modern Baby Quilt Castle Dreams Yellow and Gray HST Yellow and Gray Bricks Falling Stars Baby Pinwheel Just the Basics Custom Minecraft Quilt Brick Cottage Lane 2 Two Baby Boy Quilts Rainbow Bargello #2 More Minecraft Quilts Old Fashioned Patchwork Brick Cottage Lane Classic Country Floral Autumn Stripes Persimmon Jelly Roll Sea Glass Memory Quilt Baby Nines Seeing Squares Minecraft Mini Triangles In Laid Tiles Going for Gold Modern 70's Wall Hanging Rainbow Bargello Southwest Sunflowers On the Square Polka Dot Postcard Love Multiplied Urban Neighborhoods Country Floral Midnight Mystery Rainbow Baby Zig Zag
Today I'm excited to share a Mitered & Flanged Machine Binding Tutorial. *** It's fun, saves time and looks awesome!! *** Don't be overwhelmed by the number of steps -- after you do it once or twice it will become old hat... I know you'll love it. *** It works nicely for samples, baby blankets, and quilts that will be washed and worn!! (or if you're in a plain old hurry ;) It's the whopper of machine binding tutorials because I decided to include steps for a Mitered Finish as inspired by a YouTube video by Lisa Bongean (Primitive Gatherings) with Kimberly at The Fat Quarter Shop. ** I followed Lisa's steps to prepare the mitered finish -- AND included a link to their (most helpful) video in this tutorial. After watching the video be sure to leave a comment or give it a "thumbs up" -- it's an awesome learning tool! ** Note, the YouTube video does not include instructions for the Flange OR the Machine Finish - it explains nicely though, how to prepare mitered corners and a mitered finish -- it's a great tool and video and helped me tremendously with the mitered finish. Thanks so much ladies !! OK - Let's get started: We're going to make this sweet little flanged binding by machine with mitered corners, a mitered finish and with beautiful top-stitching to show off your pretty Aurifil threads! Begin by choosing a primary and an accent (flange) fabric. * Add in a complementary 50Wt thread for piecing and a 12Wt thread for top stitching. I chose from my #AuriStash -- #Aurifil thread is always my first choice {love}. Determine Length of Binding Needed: Calculate the total length of binding needed by adding the length of each of the 4 sides and adding an extra 10" to the number. * The sampler was 18" square. 18 + 18 + 18 + 18 + 10. = 82 inches. I assumed I could squeeze 41 usable inches per WOF strip, so I cut 2 strips of each the primary and the accent fabric. Cut the Primary and Accent fabric strips: Cut the primary fabric 1&7/16" wide. I did not have 16 of an inch marks on my ruler, so I split the width between 3/8 and 1/2 to achieve 7/16th of an inch. Now cut the accent fabric 1&3/4" wide (by the number of strips you need). Showing: Strips after cutting the correct number of Primary and Accent NOTE: When using solid colors, I sometimes place a pin in the right side of the fabric so I can tell the right side from the wrong side of the fabric. Piece Binding Strips to Achieve Necessary Length: Now you want to prepare the total length of binding. The sample required 82" so I pieced two WOF strips together at an angle (mitered seams). Be sure that your diagonal line is marked correctly before sewing and cutting. After testing the positioning of the fabric and diagonal line, stitch along the marked line with a straight stitch. (Excuse my wonky straight line - it was Free Motion Stitched ;). After stitching, remove the pins and check to ensure you have a continuous length before trimming. Now fold right sides together and trim the seam allowance to 1/4", trimming the tabs too and pressing open to reduce bulk. Repeat the above steps for the primary fabric. Now you've prepared the correct (total) length of each the primary and accent fabrics. Sew Primary and Accent Fabrics Together Lengthwise & Press: Next you'll layer the primary and accent strips right sides together, aligning one raw edge. Sew along the edge with a 1/4" seam allowance Showing the sewn raw edge Position binding on an ironing surface with the Primary fabric on top. Press flat to set the seam Next open the fabric and press the seam toward the Primary fabric. Showing after binding is pressed open toward the Primary fabric Showing back after pressing toward the Primary Fabric Next you'll fold the wrong sides together, aligning the raw edges and gently press the length of binding. I press gently so the fold IS NOT Crisp or Flattened. *** Attach prepared binding to Quilt Back: This section of the tutorial was inspired by a YouTube tutorial prepared by Lisa Bongean (Primitive Gatherings) with Kimberly of the Fat Quarter Shop. You can view that YouTube tutorial here: "How to Add a Double Fold Binding to Quilts" The section applicable to this tutorial starts around the 2:00 minute mark and continues to the 3:40 minute mark. *** Keep in mind Lisa is attaching to the front of her quilt and finishing by hand (on back) -- we will attach to the back of the quilt and finish with machine on the front. *** Continuing... attach binding quilt back: Working on the BACK of the quilt, position the binding right side down with the Primary fabric to the right (aligning raw edge of Primary fabric with raw edge of quilt back). Next fold the top right corner to the left, wrong sides together, to make a 45 degree angle and press. Now fold the binding wrong sides together so both of the binding raw edges are aligned with the raw edges of the quilt back. *** Position the binding about 1/2 way down the side of the quilt. *** You'll need space above the binding to complete the mitered finish. *** You will begin stitching the binding about 6" from the point shown below. Leave at least 5" of the binding un-stitched (pin but don't stitch) and begin stitching with a 1/4" seam allowance. *** Stop a 1/4" from the quilt corner (I marked my 1/4" with a pin - see below). *** When you stop at the 1/4" mark, be sure your needle is in the down position. Showing, stop stitching 1/4" from the quilt corner. Now lift the presser foot and pivot the quilt layers so you can stitch off the edge of the quilt at a 45 degree angle. Showing: After stitching up to corner and with a 45 degree angle to the corner of the quilt Next, trim threads and rotate the quilt counter-clockwise and prepare for the mitered fold. The fold (below) is required to make a mitered corner. *** After trimming threads and rotating the quilt so the stitched binding is running perpendicular to the foot, fold the binding strip straight up. *** When you do this you'll see a 45 degree angle from the corner of the quilt to the folded corner of the binding. Keeping the top fold steady, lay the binding down over itself, so the 45 degree angle is preserved under the top layer and the straight fold is along the top edge of the quilt. Begin stitching a 1/4" seam allowance at the top fold. Stitch to within 1/4" of the next quilt corner and repeat the process. Repeat the folding and stitching process at the next corner. After you've mitered all 4 corners you'll be headed down the last side of the quilt (The side where you started the binding). *** Stop stitching at least 6" (longer if you can) from the Beginning Tail of the quilt. *** You'll now have a beginning tail that is un-stitched and an end tail that is un-stitched. Remove quilt from the machine bed and trim threads. *** Lift the beginning tail up and fold it out of the way. *** Smooth the "End tail" down along the raw edge. Be sure there are no puckers or folds and that it rests flat against the quilt. Now unfold the "Beginning Tail" and position it over top of the "End Tail" -- making sure that both tails are smooth and are without puckers and are flat against the quilt back. Now you'll place a pin in the "End Tail" just a couple of threads away from the Point of the "Beginning Tail". *** Mark this position with a Pin through the top layer of fabric only (only through the accent fabric on the End Tail, do not pin the primary). Another image after putting a pin through the top layer only of the "End Tail" right at the point (pointed fold) of the "Beginning Tail". Now, I use my left hand to unfold the End Tail. Keep the right side of the fabric facing up The Pin should remain on your right and the primary fabric will unfold to the left. Next you'll unfold the Beginning Tail so that the right side is facing DOWN and wrong side is facing you. 2nd image of the Beginning Tail unfolded with wrong side of fabric facing up. The tricky part is positioning the Beginning Tail so it is perpendicular to the End Tail *** Align the Beginning Tail "Point" at the End Tail "Pin" and secure with pins (Thanks Lisa!) Here is where the crease from the fold comes into play -- you're going to stitch on the fold making the finished mitered seam. (Be sure NOT to stitch through the quilt -- only stitch the binding) After Stitching on the Fold Before cutting excess fabric, fold the binding closed again (wrong sides together) and check to ensure that the binding is right sized and not twisted. *** This is a very important step -- do NOT Skip ;) *** Once you've double checked the length and positioning (no twists) of the binding you can trim the mitered finish to a 1/4" seam allowance. Finger Press or Iron Press the seam open Lay the binding along the raw edge and finish sewing it to the back of the quilt with a 1/4" seam allowance being sure to pickup a few stitches into where you stopped and started. You're almost to the FUN PART!!! Roll the Binding from Back to Front of Quilt & Prepare to Machine Stitch: Yippee!! Once you've finished securing the mitered finish on the back of the quilt, you get to roll the binding around to the front of the quilt and admire the beautiful flange... *** I just LOVE the look of the flange added to this binding... Prepare the front of the quilt for machine stitching Prepare each corner by tucking the bottom of the binding fabric into the corner and folding the top of the binding to make a 45 degree angle (or mitered corner). *** Secure with Wonder Clips (love those little clips). After the tuck and fold you should see a perfectly mitered corner -- ready for stitching Secure that corner with another Wonder Clip Next... Top stitch the Flange Binding Use a 90/14 top stitch needle in your machine Choose thread colors that complement your fabric. *** Both the Top and Bobbin thread will be completely visible when you're done stitching. *** Use Aurifil 50Wt or 40Wt thread in your Bobbin Use Aurifil 12Wt thread on Top (my favorite) Set a straight stitch length to 3.0 or higher (a nice "top stitch" length). You may have to adjust your top tension down a bit (try it on a test swatch first). *** Start stitching near a corner, taking smaller stitches to secure the start. *** Note: No need to stitch in the ditch. Show off that awesome Aurifil 12Wt thread by stitching well on the flange You may have to fuss when you get into a corner so there is a stitch just before the miter and one just after you turn the quilt top Slowly stitch all the way around the quilt top to secure the binding and finish with smaller stitches to secure your threads. Doesn't it look just beautiful ? Here is an image of the front (left) and the back (right)... Love, love, love! I hope you found this tutorial helpful. Thanks again to Lisa Bongean (Primitive Gatherings) and Kimberly from the Fat Quarter Shop for sharing the steps for the mitered finish. See links above. *** This binding and the awesome Auriful thread adds great dimension to a quilt top and is admired by all who see it! *** I especially love it because I can do the work by machine and save a little time preparing samples. It's also great if your gifting the quilt to a little person, where a hand-sewn binding might not hold up under wear and tear and tugs... * Thanks for stopping by today -- leave me a comment and let me know what you think Also -- I would love if you share this tutorial on social media AND if you send me pictures of any work you create with it. *** Be sure to follow me on social media (below) for fun and inspiring posts!. See My Tutorials (tab on top of blog) for more detailed and free tutorials and patterns. Is your Shop, Group or Guild preparing for upcoming Programs? I'm offering In-Person and ZOOM based programs. Click HERE to learn more about my featured programs. You can write me anytime: [email protected] or [email protected] Upcoming Retreats!! Did you know? I've teamed up with Wendy Sheppard to share the CraZy Quilting Girls Free Motion Quilting Retreats. Join us June 2023 for the Piecing and Quilting Retreat Click here for more information on the 2023 Piecing and Quilting Retreat. *** Follow Me *** Did you know you can visit me on Facebook at Redbird Quilt Co and/or Follow Redbird Quilt Co on Instagram I post all sorts of fun things there!! ** If you love to Free Motion Quilt consider joining my Facebook Community Group Free Motion Quilting Frenzy group * Plus I share quilting related videos on my YouTube Channel * I'm also on Pinterest and I share other tutorials and patterns on My Tutorials on my blog Thanks for stopping by today... ~ Blessings ~ Karen Note: This post may contain Affiliate Links. If you purchase anything through these links I may be compensated for the purchase. I promise to only recommend those products I know and love -- especially those with fantastic prices!
It is possible to create beautiful gentle curved lines using your walking foot. Here's how. - Curved Lines using a Walking Foot - Quilting at BellaOnline
Inspired by a quilt that my friend Mary shared with me from Pinterest, I decided to design an Ombré HST quilt mathematically. This was the result. I chose to use a gradient of eight different values, numbered 1-8 from lightest to darkest. I began by drawing a 7 by 9 rectangle in my graph notebook and ...continue reading →
More cows... I have a herd now! Here's the newest girls to join up... And a close up. All from Mary Lou Weidman's new "Out of the Box" quilt book. To see the finished top click here: http://kellygirlquilts.blogspot.com/2011/10/theyre-all-dalmations.html For most current info on Kelly Girl Quilts, click HERE!
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This amazing thumbprint art is the work of Cheryl Sorg of Encinitas, California. At first I thought it was a selvage quilt! I wondered...
Happy Monday again! I created this coloring sheet to use for the #HillsideHousesQAL to help you decide the placement of your colors if you're making it different than mine. It's also a good reference to use no matter how you decide to make it because it all the houses are numbered and I'll be referring the numbers during the quilt-along. Enjoy! To download a PDF copy, click here.
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It felt so good to finish this project after spending many hours planning it in my head and then sewing it! The Rue Quilt Coat […]
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Alexandre Bikady - Artisan vitrailliste - Méthodes Tiffany et traditionnelle sous plomb. 4630 Soumagne Rue des Deux Tilleuls. 7
Match the patchwork seams in your work perfectly every time with this quilting tip - so simple you'll wonder why you didn't think of it yourself!
The design wall has by far been the most valuable addition to my studio. I don't have a wall large enough to dedicate to permanently attached panels, so I wanted to make a sturdy, two-piece design wall that could be moved around the house as need be. It was important...
