Alright, y'all...today we learn about getting our machine ready for free motion quilting. First and foremost, you are going to have to have a darning foot (aka free motion quilting foot). I am going to touch on a few "troubleshooting tips" in today's post but I will conclude this series with a handy "troubleshooter's guide" that you can use for quick, easy reference. This foot hops up and down allowing you to move the fabric through at your own pace without drag. I use a model like the one above...an open toe, clear foot. This type of darning foot gives you the most visibility. It's important to see what your stitches look like, especially if you start doing more and more intricate designs that involve traveling over previously quilted lines. If your foot is made of metal or closed toe, that's perfectly ok. Just know that this option is out there if you ever feel you want to upgrade. You will want to set your stitch length at ZERO. I usually have my stitches around 2-2.5 in length. I use the highest number, 6, for basting. With the stitch length at zero, you control the size of your stitches. As you can see the stitch length is on a dial on the right of my throat. Some machines are computerized and will require you to find the zero on a digital display, but many mechanical machines like mine have the dial. I put my machine in "needle down" mode. This way when I stop and start I don't have to worry about aligning everything perfectly the next time I start stitching. I take frequent breaks during a big project and keeping the needle down between stitches helps me hold my spot. Lower your feed dogs. The feed dogs pull the fabric through. Sounds like it helps, right? Not really. You want to be THE ONLY THING controlling where the fabric is going. Have you ever heard the phrase "running like a well oiled machine?" Well make sure your machine is oiled and cleaned regularly. Free motion quilting is hard work for your machine and you need to keep all the moving parts lubricated or it's bad news for your motor (and good news for your local sewing machine salesman/repairman). If you have a quilting table that attaches to your machine, use it! I love mine. The purpose of this is to have a nice area to work on. It gives me a large flat area to quilt before I have to worry about switching hand positions. I place my sewing machine on top of a table that is large enough to support the entire quilt being quilted. When quilts hang off to the floor, it creates a lot of tugging which is going to give you puckering, uneven stitches, or just plain old sore shoulders. LONG, huh? I rarely take this off. It's handy to have space to lay my piecework that is still within an arm's reach. Thread...ah, thread. I'm a believer in cotton thread, but not everyone loves it. You want to make sure you use the same color for top and bottom (and really this isn't a rule, this is just because it's SO hard to get your tension perfect...if you can, go ahead!). I like to use the same brand/weight/type of thread for the bobbin and the top thread. Sometimes if they are 2 different weights (even if the color is the same) you get ugly stitches. I use Coats and Clark a lot because of availability. I really love affinity and mettler for quilting. Every machine is different, every quilter is different. What I DO NOT recommend is buying bargain no-name quilting thread from a certain vendor at the quilt festival, AHEM. It was a nightmare for me (and on a twin size moda bakeshop quilt no less). Needles are another HUGE factor in FMQ. I use a 90/14 needle. Start your FMQ project with a new needle. You'll be amazed at the difference. Needles warp and get burs over time which will cause your thread to shred or skipped stitches (toe catchers). FMQ is hard on your machine, don't make it harder by being cheap with a needle. Your motor and thread will thank you! Needle Tension. This is usually a dial that goes from 0 to 9, but on my machine it goes from 0-4. Most people raise their needle tension slightly to FMQ. If your thread is breaking, you probably have a case of cheap thread, bad needle, or a needle tension that is too high. Tension issues are the culprit when you have loops in your stitches. If you can see your bobbin thread on the top of the quilt, the upper tension is too tight and you should adjust it to a lower number. If you can see your top thread on the underside of the quilt, your upper tension is too loose and you should adjust it to a higher number. Many machines also have foot pressure controls. As you see above, my machine has a dot in the middle for "normal sewing." If you feel like you are jamming your thick quilts under too small a space, adjust your foot pressure but raising the foot a little to give you a little more space for the quilt to guide nicely like so: If you get your foot pressure too loose, you're gonna get skipped stitches AKA toe catchers. Bobbins...A lot can go wrong here, so it's important to know how to test your bobbin tension. First start with a good well wound bobbin. If your bobbin is threaded all wonky, your stitches will look all wonky. Trust. You'll also have breakage issues. Keep your bobbin clean and lint free. You make also choose to place a TINY drop of oil on your machine where the bobbin sets (right in the middle where the hole of the bobbin case would go). The perfect bobbin tension is one where you load the bobbin and let it fall with a SLIGHT jerk (like a yoyo, but delicately). It should drop 3-4 inches. If it falls to the floor, your bobbin tension is too loose. To remedy this, make TINY TINY turns of the largest bobbin screw to the RIGHT to tighten it up a bit. A WEE LITTLE TURN can make a huge difference. If your bobbin doesn't drop at all, your bobbin tension is too tight. You will need to make a TINY TINY turn of the largest bobbin screw to the left to loosen the bobbin tension. A lot of people think this is something best left to your sewing machine repair shop. I don't get that...I check my bobbin tension with every new bobbin. It's crazy to think big thick threads are going to react the same way a fine silky thread will. Be very delicate with as you loosen/tighten the bobbin case, but don't be afraid. It's part of learning how to take care of your machine - take ownership of that. It's YOUR machine. This is my thread cutter button...love it. This is so nice to have and if you have the opportunity when getting a machine, upgrade to the one with a thread cutter! It's very nice when you are quilting smaller motifs that don't flow into one another or quilting big quilts. You will want to clear your workspace of any breakables and drinks. That's an accident waiting to happen. You need to make sure your space is well lit enough for you to safely operate the machine (which I would hope you already have that!). Finally, make sure your chair is a good height ergonomically. You shouldn't have to raise your arms too much or slump your back over to reach your machine. More on the ergonomics in our next session: Getting YOU ready to quilt!
Not going to lie, I am little sad that Stitch Pink is over. Alas, I have a gazillion projects that I should be finishing. I just need to look at them like a stitch along and finish one each month...or until a new project catches my eye. :-) Sound familiar? Oh, and before I forget I have something very exciting in the works, a new website and blog!!! Yay!! I have been wanting to do this for quite some time and it looks like it will be a reality very soon. I will keep you all posted as I do not want you to miss on future posts and info. :-) Another photo of this gorgeous quilt. If you're playing catch up on this quilt. I have posted links to each block and all the details/tips I had for piecing my blocks, beginning with the Oct. 1 post. All the tools and aids I used as well as the my favorite marking tools are now listed in my shop here. I realized I forgot to include more details on the quilting. Machine quilting available here. Info on machine quilting here. I used a variety of scrap batting pieces I had saved up leftover from client quilts. I end up with a ton of leftover pieces of batting. I save them and use them in my personal quilts. I just butt them up as I go as I progress down the quilt. I do not piece them together prior. I used Innova Tech Thread on top and Magna-Glide Prewound magnetic bobbins in the bobbin. Quilting design is Deb's Feathers, which I do not yet have on my website, but you can request it. Links to all the blocks can also be found in the Moda Stitch Pink Archives here. Now the big debate starts...when to start decorating for Christmas. I am typically an after Thanksgiving Christmas Tree kind of girl, although my girls have been known to convince me to put it up before. What about you guys? Are decorating for Christmas yet? I am still enjoying fall decor and pumpkins. Can you spot our kitty Vinny?? It snowed here in Michigan yesterday, but it is warming back up...thank goodness! I am not ready for snow. If it snows early again, I may be tempted for early Christmas decorating. Thank you to everyone that stopped by on my previous post. It was wonderful to hear all your favorite treats. Many of you shared your own cancer journey. They touched my heart. I hope to one day live in a world where no one has to make that journey. So the big winner of the basket giveaway is... Linda in PA..."My favorite fall treat in Autumn mix candy corn and pumpkins. My all year long favorite is chocolate. Happy Anniversaries! Your quilt is beautiful! Giving it to your friend was a loving and generous thing to do! Last October I was diagnosed with breast cancer. I had a double mastectomy in January. So I am a nine month breast cancer survivor." Congratulations Linda! Please email me your info! Also, the Instagram winner will be posted shortly, so if you left a comment there, be sure to check that out.
I've had a number of requests for the recipe to the Quilters Moonshine that Kare and I made and gave to the participants of our first Old Bags Day. This recipe makes a little over a gallon so be prepared to make it in a bucket or large bowl and then transfer to other containers. Mix well: 1 gallon of distilled water 1/2 cup liquid starch (we used Sta-Flo) 1 cup vodka (cheap is fine - and now you know why we call it Moonshine!) You can add up to 4 teaspoons of your favorite essential oil for a scent, if you'd like. We did not do that. For one thing, I don't particularly care for scented items because I never know if it will set off my allergies. Of course another reason we didn't "flavor it" was because we would never have been able to decide on one scent that all 32 participants would like. :-) So there you have it! Vodka really does have a place in the sewing room. :-))
I have been a happy quilter as I have managed to finish three of my own quilts! I know exciting right. A friend reminded me of one quilt I hadn't shared here on my blog, although I have shared on my Instagram and Facebook pages, but I think there are some of you who only follow me here on my blog. Quilt Information: Pattern - Atomic Starburst by Violet Craft Measurements - 72" x 76" Batting - Wool. Backing - Tula Pink. Quilting - Custom Quilting. Threads - Glide. This was the perfect quilt design to showcase Tula Pink's All Stars, PomPom's & Stripes fabric ranges. I used a Robert Kaufman white fabric called Animal Kingdom and Kona Solid in the colour Pea Pod. Quilt Information: Pattern - Mandolin Quilt - English Paper Piecing paper & pattern from Tales of Cloth Measurements - 75" x 75" Batting - Wool Backing - Pieced from two vintage embroidered tablecloths and other fabrics. Quilting - E2E Quilting - Soft & Sweet. Threads - Glide. I started this quilt in January 2018 as a sew along with Tales of Cloth. I had enormous amounts of fun choosing fabrics. I wanted an eclectic look which I created with the middle hexagon's from vintage linen's (yes I cut them up!) then just played with fabric from my stash. look closely, what looks like all straight lines, there is a custom quilted block! Quilt Information: Pattern - Chic Picnic by Sew Kind of Wonderful. Measurements - 79" x 79" Batting - Wool/Polyester. Backing - Pieced from two Alison Glass panels, two of her other fabrics and some word fabric. Quilting - Custom Quilting. Threads - Glide. Another great pattern to showcase some scrumptious fabrics, this time a good selection of Alison Glass fabrics. Finished off with a flange binding. For all my New Zealand readers wanting to have some E2E (all over ) Quilting on their quilt tops, this special is running until the end of the month. So it's not too late to pop your quilt tops in the post for some E2E Quilting. "It's not a quilt until it's quilted"
After a 3 week drought, I was very excited to get back to my Tuesday night 'Stitch and Bitch' class at Amitie. It was lovely to see my very patient and talented teacher Judy again. She has taught me so very much. Numerous other happy patchers and quilters came along tonight. (Note the empty champagne flutes). And I got started on a new project for my mum's birthday coming up in December. I used a technique that I learned watching the (online) Quilt Show. This technique was described in the show that you can watch for free. (I hope the episode hasn't changed). In any case, I thought I'd show you how I do this gorgeous block. It is a 'Flying Geese' block made (incredibly) with only 1 seam! Check this out ..... First, you cut your pieces. I'll give the dimensions for a finished block that is 3 inches x 6 inches. You need two 3.5 inch squares that will make the corners of the block. And you need to cut a rectangle 3.5 inches x 6.5 inches, which will make the central triangle of the block. These ... will eventually become these.... Here's how ... Take the rectangle piece and fold it in half with the right side on the OUTSIDE. Then make a sandwich with this folded rectangle as the 'filling', and 2 of the squares as the 'bread'. The 2 squares should have their right sides facing INTO the sandwich. You will notice that the folded rectangle is the same width as the squares but 1/4 inch shorter. Place the fold of the rectangle at the end with the 1/4 inch gap (see above). Then, with the sandwich in this same position, sew a 1/4 inch seam down the right hand side of the sandwich. (Once you get used to this process, you can chain piece lots of blocks in one go). That's all the sewing. Amazing!!! The magic happens with the ironing. First, with the fold of the rectangle at the top of the block, iron out the right hand square. Then, grab the bottom left hand corner of the folded rectangle and bring it over to the right hand side to make a folded triangle. Iron this down .... and voila!!! You now have a block that can be joined together in any number of ways. Here's how I have joined mine ... I'll show you how the whole quilt will come together once I've done a bit more work on it. In the meantime, time for me to get to bed. Sleep well and happy quilting! Andi :-)
I have a confession: I hate binding my quilts! I have at least a half-dozen quilts that are quilted but not bound. The Front Range Modern Quilt Guild gave away the neatest tool as a door prize at our last meeting. The Binding Tool. Yes, I have two. Since I didn't win the door prize, I bought the white one without remembering I already had the blue one. Innocent-looking little thing, isn't it? Well, let me tell you. This tool is a Honey Badger. That's right, a Honey Badger. 'cuz it don't care. It don't give a sh... OK, OK. Actually, once I watched the video from Missouri Star Quilting Company, I am convinced it might be a really clever little tool. Here's how to win over the Honey Badger: First, prepare your binding fabric. I usually cut mine 2 1/2" wide, or 2 1/4" if I'm using a really thin batting. Join the binding strips using a 45 degree angle to minimize bulk. Place the strips crosswise to each other and sew edge to edge, like this: Then trim the seams and press the binding right sides together lengthwise. It isn't necessary to trim the edges of your "quilt sandwich," but I do because it makes it easier to handle at the machine. Make two marks along one edge of your quilt sandwich, 12" apart. Hey, guess what. They mean 12" exactly! Otherwise your binding won't meet at the ends. (Thanks for the tip, Melissa!) With the bulk of your quilt away from you, the mark on the left is where you will start attaching your binding. Leave a "tail" of binding about 8-10" long, like this: And start sewing with a 1/4" seam. To make a nice corner, stop sewing exactly 1/4" from the corner. I back-stitch at an approximate 45 degree angle away from the last stitch, like this: Then fold the binding to the right, forming a 45 degree angle. The raw edges of the binding will be parallel to the raw edges of the quilt sandwich, like this: Here I've put a white piece of paper under the binding so you can see the angle better: Next, bring the binding back over the 45 degree fold, making a 90 degree fold even with the raw edges of the already-sewn-down binding, like this: Start stitching right at the fold and continue around your quilt. Form your nice corners three more times, until you get to the second mark you made (remember, it's 12" from where you started sewing). Now we'll use our "Binding Tool" to form a 45 degree seam that joins both ends of the binding. The binding tool has a "warning" printed on it: PRINTED SIDE ALWAYS UP! Remember that as you place the tool and cut the ends off the binding. Place the tool PRINTED SIDE UP with the straight end against the stitches where you started attaching the binding, like this: See that black vertical line at the right hand side of the tool? Make a mark on your binding even with that line. Repeat for the right hand side, be sure the printed side of the tool is right side up! Next we will cut off the ends of the binding to form 45 degree angles, right hand side first: The "Mark Here" vertical line on the tool aligns with the mark you made on your binding. That white chalk line shows where the cut will be (it's moved to the right so you can see it). Be sure to cut off the little dog ear at the corner! Now the left side. This is why I called it a Honey Badger. When you cut the right hand side, the "Mark Here" line is aligned with the mark made on the binding. When you cut the left hand side, align the tip of the tool to the left of your vertical mark. In their defense, the designers DID put a tiny "R" and"L" on the tool, But the directions on the tool are scanty, and I didn't understand how important those little letters were until I watched the video! Cut the left side of the binding along the angled end of the tool, remember to cut off the dog ear! Whew! The hard part is over. Next, we'll align the cut edges of the binding, right sides together: And stitch a 1/4" seam: Now fold the binding right sides together and continue stitching the binding to the quilt: You won't be able to tell where your binding begins and ends! It will be just another diagonal seam, same as when you joined the binding strips together. I'll show you how I finish the binding in the next post, because I had just enough thread to attach the binding: Besides, now we both need a cuppa and a bit of a lie down to recover.
In this two part series on the best hand quilting needles, this first part lists the 5 main types of needles and what they should be used for.
Photograph purchased in Texas, probably from about 1910 Georgia artist and historian Vista Ann Mahan is the expert on quilts in old photos. For years she has been collecting pictures of people with quilts as backdrops. She also has collected information about the photograph style, finding it to be a Southern regionalism. Vista in a portait for Ladies Circle Patchwork Quilts about 1991 Those of us who collect old photos come across these occasionally in antique shops. With the advent of online auctions we have more access to them, but the competition for the photos tends to be tough. Somebody always bids $1 more than I am willing to pay. A recent online auction piece In her paper on the topic for the American Quilt Study Group in 1991 Vista found that of the 59 photos she could date at the time, the most common time frame was between 1891-1920. One portrait of her family with a quilt backdrop dates to 1860. Vista believes that these photos were done by itinerant professionals. Rural people remembered photographers who came "to a community once or twice a year, stopping by all the farms inquring if families wanted their picture made." The examples she found were primarily from the Southeastern U.S. although she had one Canadian example. We can imagine that the quilt in the picture provided both physical background and symbolic status. In this case, the use of a T-patterned quilt MAY have symbolized the girl's enthusiasm for Temperance ideals. Vista's paper "Quilts Used as Backdrops in Old Photographs" was published in the research papers of the American Quilt Study Group: Uncoverings 1991. See ordering information by clicking here: http://www.americanquiltstudygroup.org/uncoveringsList.asp If all this sounds interesting to you you will want to attend this year's American Quilt Study Group Seminar in Minnesota on October 14-17, 2010. Click here for more information: http://www.americanquiltstudygroup.org/seminar.asp It's the place for quilt history. See family photos by clicking on these links. http://mcguffin.com/100yrs.html http://www.floridamemory.com/PhotographicCollection/displayphoto.cfm?IMGTITLE=RC17818 Photographers often used coverlet and tablecloths for backdrops too. http://blog.familytreemagazine.com/photodetectiveblog/2007/04/26/BlanketBackdrop.aspx
Explore gfquilts' 1883 photos on Flickr!
The WreathMaker Use the Pick tool to select one or more patches for the Wreath. Right-click on the worktable and choose WreathMaker… Specify the number of clusters for the Wreath, fr
BACKGROUND Block of the Month through Quilts in the Attic Beginning October 2013 – September 2014 Finished top at 92″ x 92 on 2/27/2016 Batting – Winline 100% Bamboo…
This no mark stitch & flip technique is quick, easy, and sew-fun! It will save you tons of time on your quilting journey — we guarantee it!
I've been working on my Snowflake Medallion quilt and it's ready to have a round of Flying Geese pieced to it. Several years ago I learned an effective and easy way to make Flying Geese blocks. This method suits best when you want four identical Flying Geese, and you don't want to waste any scrap of fabric. It's my favorite way to make FGs. If you wish to calculate the size of your geese, know that the finished width of the block is twice the finished height of the block. To calculate for yourself the size Flying Geese you want to make, follow this formula: For the geese (shown green print), cut ONE fabric square that equals the finished width of the block plus 1-1/4". For the sky/background (shown white), cut FOUR fabric squares that equal the finished height of the block plus 7/8". On each sky/background square draw a line diagonally from corner to corner. Note that my drawing surface is a piece of 000 sandpaper. As I draw the line, the sandpaper helps minimize any fabric stretching across the bias. With right sides together, position a background square on a corner of the large geese square. Position a second background square on the opposite corner, aligning the drawn lines. A slight overlap is okay. Using a walking foot (preferred) or a quarter-inch foot, straight stitch across both background squares, sewing a scant quarter-inch away from the drawn line. The drawn line aligns with the groove of the walking foot. Stitch along both sides of the drawn line. Use a ruler and rotary cutter to cut on the drawn line, between the two lines of stitching. Press the seam allowance toward the smaller squares. Position another small sky/background square on the corner of the now half-size geese. Again, stitch a scant quarter-inch from the drawn line on both sides of the line. Repeat to sew the fourth small square onto the remaining half-size geese. Rotary cut between the drawn line. Press seam allowances away from each goose. Trim rectangles to remove dog ears. One large square and four small squares equal four lovely Flying Geese blocks.
I'm sharing the tips and tricks I use for putting binding on a quilt by machine.
When we first arrived at International Quilt Market in Houston and began setting up our booth we met our next door neighbors Deb and Jeff Tucker of Studio 180 Designs What a great company to be placed next to! When they learned this was our first year as Vendors at IQF they gave us a lot of tips and helpful hints to navigate our way through such a large convention. Doubly Charmed A neatly organized and well designed booth space. *I took a lot of notes! Deb has a background in Education and Architecture and started her company when she created a series of tools that make the Hunter's Star quilt easier and with better accuracy. I stood in admiration as I watched her demo for hours on end each day during the 2 weeks of both Quilt Market and Quilt Festival. A very professional and hard working lady! Last year alone Deb presented at 20 Conventions. Have you seen or used the rulers that Deb has designed? I was hoping the Tucker Trimmer offered a magical solution for weight loss :) I loved their Flying Swallows by Sager Creek Quilts where the block looks like detailed English Paper Piecing but instead is made with a much easier technique of strip piecing and specialty ruler. For more information you can visit Studio 180 Designs at their web site HERE Thanks Deb and Jeff for helping us newbies. We hope we have the opportunity to be neighbors next year.
I'd like to share with you how I used the Tri-Recs rulers to make the pinwheel blocks in the Pinwheels & Patchwork quilt (free pattern here.) And if you don't already have a set of these handy rulers, stay tuned to the end of the post for a chance to win a set from the Fat Quarter Shop! (giveaway has ended) I bought these Tri-Recs rulers years ago and then they sat for a looong time because I didn't know how to use them! Now that I know, they're super handy and you can do all sorts of fun blocks with them. Today I'm just showing the pinwheel block, but once you get the hang of them, you can start just creating! The pinwheel block for today is really just four triangle-in-a-square blocks that have been rotated and sewn together. Let's get started! First of all, cut a strip of fabric that is 6.5" x WOF (width of fabric). You can keep it folded (the way it comes off the bolt) and that way you'll be cutting two triangles at a time. Line up the "Tri" ruler on the strip of fabric as shown. That nice flat edge on the top of the ruler is helpful here! See how it lines up with the top of the fabric strip? Use a rotary cutter to cut out one triangle, then flip the ruler over and line it up along that just-cut edge. You're ready to cut another triangle! Keep going along the length of the strip of fabric, cutting out as many triangles as you need. For one block we only need 4 triangles. Next up we'll be cutting the side triangle pieces using the "Recs" ruler. Once again, cut a strip of fabric that is 6.5" x WOF. See that notch on the top left of the Recs tool? That notch will come in handy when you start piecing the block. So make sure you trim that notch from the fabric as you cut! Line up the ruler as shown, and cut one triangle. As before, flip the ruler over and cut another one. And then just keep flipping and cutting all the way down the length of the strip. For our one block you'll only need 8 of these side triangles. Time to sew! Arrange one triangle piece with two side triangles as shown. We'll sew one side first. Flip the side triangle over so the two pieces are right sides together. Notice the bottom corner of the triangle? That notch you cut in the side triangle piece helps you line it up with the larger triangle. The notch should line up with the bottom edge of the large triangle. Stitch along the side of the triangle with a 1/4" seam. Flip open the side triangle and press. I recommend pressing open. Now line up the second side triangle - making sure that notch at the bottom is lined up. Sew with a 1/4" seam. Flip open the second side triangle and press open. This triangle-in-a-square (TIS) block should measure 6.5" square. Repeat to make a total of 4 TIS blocks. Take a minute to trim off any little dog ears on each block. Arrange the four blocks as shown, taking note of how each one is rotated. Sew the top two blocks together, and the bottom two blocks together, with a 1/4" seam. Press seams open. Now sew the two block halves together, being careful to line up that center seam. Stitch and then press seam - this time press to one side. The finished block should measure 12.5" square. Fun block, right? Would you like to win a set of Tri-Recs rulers? Just leave a comment below, telling me one thing on your Summer bucket list. Giveaway ends Sunday July 2nd at midnight and I'll announce the winner here on Monday July 3rd. And thank you to the Fat Quarter Shop for sponsoring the giveaway! International entries welcome, one entry per person please. Giveaway has ended - thank you! Want to see what else you can make with the Tri-Recs rulers?** Check out this pinterest board - filled with different ideas on what you can make using these two rulers! And don't forget to go here and download the free pattern for the Pinwheels & Patchwork quilt. Now that you know how to make the pinwheel blocks, this quilt's a breeze! **This post may contain affiliate links, which means I may receive a small commission (at no additional cost to you) when purchases are made through links found in this post.
Glue basting techniques from Cristy Fincher - tips for basting perfect quilt points, curves and applique using washable glue.
I scored a few of these Dresden rulers at a great price with all of you in mind! So, I thought I would share a little how-to, on how easy they are and show you why you need one. If you already know what to do with this you can go straight to the shop […]
We went. We walked. We listened. We ate. We walked. We were inspired. We learned. We laughed. We had a really good time at the Quilter's Take Manhattan, the annual event presented by the Quilt Alliance. Moda is the Presenting Sponsor and after Mr. Dunn couldn't attend this year's event... a couple of us got to go instead. (And we got to hear some great stories about Mr.
A great list of over 50 sewing tutorials, with many different sewing projects, tips and techniques. Many of these sewing tutorials include video lessons.
Happy Thanksgiving everyone!! This week is a little different… In a busy holiday week, we have two big things happening this weekend. First, we are doing our biggest sale of the year! All patterns are 30% off in the store through Midnight tomorrow (Monday) night. There is a lot to be thankful for, and we are very thankful for your encouragement and support of this small business :)Second is near and dear to my heart! This is the second year I am doing my sample sale for charity! Every year I mak
By Nedra Sorensen Quilting, quilting tutorials, modern quilts, family, faith, Arizona
I used the above measurements for a 2 1/2 inch ruler.. The smaller sizes would have to be done with measurements other than 1/2 inches.
Projects from the new book Homestyle Quilts How much time do you set aside each month, each week, each day to quilt? With schedules, commitments, and responsibilities aplenty, finding moments to devote to creativity—simply for creativity’s sake—can feel like an impossible challenge. Creative pursuits often go missing as we sift through our day-to-day obligations. But …
Week 3 - Cutting!! Cutting is so so important when making a quilt. I think sometimes it can be over looked or rushed. When I first started...
The 2018 NZP Fat Quarter Mystery is a mystery no more! Team Nancy Zieman is honored to celebrate Nancy Zieman’s legacy with this quilt titled, She’s Our Star.
A few years ago, I taught a quilt class in my hometown of Earling, IA. There were some ladies from a neighboring town who wanted to take the class, but couldn't. So I scheduled a class for them in Dunlap. These ladies belong to a quilt guild that encompasses people within a 50 mile radius of Dunlap, so I met many nice quilters. I returned to do another class the next year. I do a trunk show while they are sewing, and they saw the Mexican Star Quilt. So they asked me to return and teach that class on Saturday. The class was being held in Denison, which is not far from Earling, so I went up Friday night to stay at my folk's house, then drove up in the morning. It gave me a chance to check up on how mom is doing after her surgery as well as visit with them! She is doing really well, though still tired and somewhat sore. As you can see, they were all on their way to some beautiful quilts! I love seeing the different fabrics that everyone uses and how they come together. That sashing is only 1" finished, so you get the idea of the size. It finishes at about 40" sq. with an added border. The pattern is from Southwind Designs. I ordered them from Quilting Horizons for this class....good prices, and service. They promised me that they would send me pix when they get them finished. The way these ladies were sewing, it won't be long!
...where knitting and quilting vie for attention
Hello Everyone, I've been quietly working away the past few days, filling in at the shop and teaching....no time for blogging, and I ...
Welcome to the home of Henry Glass Fabrics. We are fabric converters located in NYC. We produce beautiful fabric for the quilting and sewing industry.
Ta Da ! I am happy to say that I finished all 41 of my quilt blocks for HAMPTON RIDGE ! Hampton Ridge is a BOM Quilt you can see it HERE . Month # 11 and # 12 are the finishing fabrics for this quilt. Just look how much fabric I had leftover from this BOM . Very generous with the fabric ! Happy Sewing ! Sue