Zapf Creation 700969" Baby Annabell Sweet Dreams Babyschaukel Puppe, bunt: Amazon.de: Spielzeug

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I love this doll. Not only is she as cute as a button but her outfits are so quick and easy to make. The pattern for this dress has been borrowed from both my teddy bear dress and barbie dress (both on this site). The only thing I had to do was work out was the stitches for sizing etc and whether to copy the format of Ted's dress by doing the bodice first then attaching the skirt or starting fresh and simplify the pattern by starting at the neck and working down. I decided to try the neck down method, with the bodice done in dc (US sc) rounds and the skirt in an easy cluster pattern. The matching hat is worked from the crown down. As always if you find any mistakes or have any problems with this pattern please let me know. Pattern To fit: 14”/ 36cm Baby Annabell doll Materials: 50g 4ply yarn in main, and small amount of contrast (I used Stylecraft life 4ply) in Turquoise and white Crochet hook no 3.50 and 4mm Tension: (Gauge) 24sts x 28 rows to 4” over dc using 3.50 hook Abbreviations: Dc: double crochet (US single crochet), tr: treble crochet, (US double crochet), ch: chain, slst: slip stitch, inc: increase Worked from the neck down. Work in back loop only for all dc. No 3.50 hook and main make 60chain. Begin round with 1dc in first ch space, dc in each space around round 1: dc9, 2dc in each of next 2 dc, dc8, 2dc in each of next 2 dc, dc18, 2dc in each of next 2 dc, dc8, 2dc in each of next 2 dc, dc9 round 2: (dc10, 2dc in each of next 2 dc,) 2 times, dc20, (2dc in each of next 2 dc, dc10) 2 times round 3: dc11, 2dc in each of next 2 dc, dc12, 2dc in each of next 2 dc, dc22, 2dc in each of next 2 dc, dc12, 2dc in each of next 2 dc, dc11 round 4: dc13, 6ch, miss 16dc, dc26, 6ch, miss 16dc, d13 round 5: 1dc in each dc around working dc in each of 6chs. 64dcs work 4 more rounds in dc, then change to contrast and work 2 rounds skirt work in both loops for cluster round using no 4mm hook and *main 3ch in first dc, 2tr in same space, 1dc in next dc, miss 1dc, (3tr in next dc, 1dc in next dc, miss 1dc) repeat around, slst in top of 3ch (21 clusters) Round 2: slst in next tr, 2ch, 3tr in next dc, (miss 1tr, 1dc in next tr (centre tr in cluster), 3tr, in next dc) repeat around, slst in top of 2ch Round 3: 3ch, 2tr in same space, miss 1tr, 1dc in next tr, (3tr in next dc, miss 1tr, 1dc in next tr) repeat around, slst in top of 3ch (21 clusters) Repeat rounds 2 and 3, 2 times** Work 2 rounds dc in white Repeat from * to ** 28 clusters Work one round using contrast. Fasten off yarn To Finish In contrast work a round of dc around neck (and armholes if you want) Neaten all ends. Hat With 3.5 hook work 6dc in magic loop Round 1: 2dc in each dc around 12dcs Round 2: (2dc in next dc, 1dc) around 18dcs Round 3: (2dc in next dc, 2dc) around 24dcs Continue increasing 6sts on each round to 42dcs dc around Next round: (2dc in next dc, dc 6) around 48dcs Next round: Dc around Next round: (2dc in next dc, dc 8) around 54dcs work in both loops for cluster round using no 4mm hook and main, 3ch in first dc, 2tr in same space, 1dc in next dc, miss 1dc, (3tr in next dc, miss 1dc, 1dc in next dc, miss 1dc) repeat around, slst in top of 3ch (14 clusters) Round 2: slst in next tr, 2ch, 3tr in next dc, (miss 1tr, 1dc in next tr (centre tr in cluster), 3tr, in next dc) repeat around, slst in top of 2ch Round 3: 3ch, 2tr in same space, miss 1tr, 1dc in next tr, (3tr in next dc, miss 1tr, 1dc in next tr) repeat around, slst in top of 3ch Repeat rounds 2 and 3, 2 times Finish with a round in contrast Neaten all ends PDF to download

' Baby Annabell dress & booties#Free#Crochet#pattern link here DISCLAIMER First and foremost I take no credit for any of the FREE pattern links on this page none of these are any of my work but are the work of many talented people who have donated them generously for everyone to share ,please be grateful to them for their generosity and DO NOT try to sell these patterns or pass them off as your own THANK you to the writer and designer for this FREE pattern BY The talented linda Mary CLICK ON THE FIRST PICTURE TO DOWNLOAD ACCESS FOLLOW ME IN PINTEREST CLICK BELLOW⇩ If you would like to get MORE FREE patterns when they are posted just subscribe to the email list which will send you instant notifications its safe and your email is NOT shared anywhere else or follow me here on this blog *

When my children were babies (a long time ago now) a jacket with hood and matching leggings was called a pram set. Hence the name of this design. Those were the days when most new mothers had a shiny new pram with matching bag at the front and either a quilted cover or checked Otterburn rug. silver cross pram When one of my visitors suggested a jacket and trousers for Annabell to wear in her stroller I came up with this pattern. I tend to be bit old fashioned with my knitting (or as my daughter would say, very old fashioned in everything) and this design is no exception. Its knit in rows to the armholes then in one piece for the shaping, with short seams to sew for the sleeves and sides. The trousers are also knit in rows and seamed along the inner edge. I used King Cole Cherish which is a lovely smooth yarn to work with but any dk would do, just check your tension. A budget yarn would be ideal too as it knits up nice and thick. This pattern has been tested and checked but mistakes can easily happen when transferring the typed pattern to this blog. So if you find any errors or have any queries please let me know either by commenting below or contacting me. thanks Actual measurements: Jacket: Chest 14”, Length centre back 7”, Sleeve seam 3” Leggings: waist to toe: 10.5” Materials: 150 g double knitting yarn. 80g jacket and 50g trousers (I used King Cole Cherish, orchid) Needles size 3.25 and 4mm, 4 small buttons Tension: 22sts - 30 rows to 10cm (4in) in stocking stitch using 4mm needles Abbreviations: Ss: stocking stitch (one row knit, one row purl), gs: garter stitch – every row knit, k: knit, p: purl, inc: increase, dc: decrease, beg: beginning, sts: stitches, tog: together, re: repeat. Yf: yarn forward, ssk: slip next 2 sts onto right hand needle, insert left hand needle into the front part of both stitches then knit them together (or use s1k1psso) wrt k (wrap and turn knitwise): yf, slst from left hand needle onto right hand needle, yb, slst back onto left hand needle, turn (pull yarn firmly to avoid a hole) wrt p (wrap and turn purlwise): yb, slst from left hand needle onto right hand needle, yf, slst back onto left hand needle, turn (pull yarn firmly to avoid a hole) Jacket with hood Sleeves Using 3.25m needles cast on 25sts Garter stitch 6 rows Change to 4mm needles Row 1: (p1, k2) rep to last st, p1 Row 2: purl These 2 rows form the pattern continue in pattern, inc 1 stitch at both ends of next and every 6th row to 31sts Work 9 rows in pattern Shape Armholes Keeping pattern correct Cast off 3sts at beg of next 2 rows Leave 25sts on a holder Back Using no 3.25 needles cast on 43sts Garter stitch 6 rows Change to 4mm needles Row 1: (p1, k2) rep to last st, p1 Row 2: purl These 2 rows form the pattern, repeat until work measures 5” Shape Armholes Keeping pattern correct Cast off 3sts at beg of next 2 rows Leave 37sts on a holder Left front Using 3.25 needles cast on 26sts Garter stitch 6 rows Change to 4mm needles Row 1: (p1, k2) rep to last 8sts, k8 Row 2: k8, purl to end These 2 rows form the pattern with garter stitch front border. Repeat until work measures 5” ending on a wrong side row Shape armhole Keeping pattern correct Cast off 3sts patt to end work 1 row leave 23sts on a holder Right front Using 3.25 needles cast on 26sts Garter stitch 6 rows Change to 4mm needles Row 1: k8, (k2, p1) rep to end Row 2: p to last 8sts, k8 These 2 rows form the pattern with garter stitch front border. Repeat until work measures 4 rows less than left front ending on front edge (right side facing) Buttonhole row: k2tog, yf, k4, yf, k2tog pattern to end Pattern 4 rows (Wrong side facing) Shape Armholes Cast off 3sts patt to end 23sts, do not fasten off yarn Join Pieces and shape raglan On left hand needle, with right side facing slip sts of left front, sleeve, back, sleeve and right front working yarn should be at the beg of row 133sts work across all sts as follows: Row 1: K8, pattern 12, k2tog, p2tog (this is one st from right front and 1 from sleeve) ssk, pattern 19, k2tog, p2tog, ssk, pattern 31, k2tog, p2tog, ssk, pattern 19, k2tog, p2tog, ssk, pattern 12, k8 (121sts) Row 2: k8, purl to last 8sts, k8 It may be easier to place a marker before and after each decrease to keep track of raglan shaping Row 3: K8, patt 11, k2tog, p1, ssk, patt 17, k2tog, p1, ssk, patt 29, k2tog, p1, ssk, patt 17, k2tog, p1, ssk, patt 11, k8 (113 sts) Row 4: k8, purl to last 8sts, k8 Row 5: K8, patt 10, k2tog, p1, ssk, patt 15, k2tog, p1, ssk, patt 27, k2tog, p1, ssk, patt 15, k2tog, p1, ssk, patt 10, k8 (105 sts) Row 6: k8, purl to last 8sts, k8 Row 7: buttonhole row k2tog, yf, k4, yf, k2tog, patt 9, k2tog, p1, ssk, patt 13, k2tog, p1, ssk, patt 25, k2tog, p1, ssk, patt 13, k2tog, p1, ssk, patt 9, k8 (97sts) Row 8: k8, purl to last 8sts, k8 Row 9: k8, patt 8, k2tog, p1, ssk, patt 11, k2tog, p1, ssk, patt 23, k2tog, p1, ssk, patt 11, k2tog, p1, ssk, patt 8, k8 (89sts) Row 10: k8, purl to last 8sts, k8 Row 11: Cast off 8sts, patt 7, k2tog, p1, ssk, patt 9, k2tog, p1, ssk, patt 21, k2tog, p1, ssk, patt 9, k2tog, p1, ssk, patt 7, k8 (73sts) Row 12: Cast off 8sts purl to end (65sts) Row 13: k2tog, patt 4, k2tog, p1, ssk, patt 7, k2tog, p1, ssk, patt 19, k2tog, p1, ssk, patt 7, k2tog, p1, ssk, patt 4, k2tog (55sts) Row 14: p2tog, purl to last 2sts, p2tog Row 15: k2tog, patt 1, k2tog, p1, ssk, patt 5, k2tog, p1, ssk, patt 17, k2tog, p1, ssk, patt 5, k2tog, p1, ssk, patt 1, k2tog (43sts) Row 16 p2tog, purl to last 2sts, p2tog 41sts Row 17: k2tog, p1, ssk, patt 3, k2tog, p1, ssk, patt 15, k2tog, p1, ssk, patt 3, k2tog, p1, ssk (33sts) Fasten off yarn and leave 33sts on holder Hood Using 4mm needles and right side facing re-join yarn at right front neck edge, miss 7 cast off sts. Knit into 8th st then pick up and knit 6sts up right front, knit across 33sts on holder as follows: k12, inc in next 4sts, k1, inc in next 4sts, k12, pick up and knit 6sts down left front, knit into 8th cast off st 55sts Next row : k4 purl to last 4sts, k4 Shape sides Row 1: k6, p1, wrt k Row 2: purl to last 4sts, k4 Row 3: k4 (k2, p1) 2 times, wrt k Row 4 purl to last 4sts, k4 Row 5 K4 (k2,p1) 15 times, k6 Row 6 k4, purl 3, wrt k Row 7 p1, k2, k4 Row 8 k4, purl 6, wrt k Row 9 (p1, k2) 2 times k4 Row 10 k4, purl across all sts, k4 Row 11 K6 (p1, k2) 15 times, k4 Row 12 k4, purl to last 4sts k4 Rep last 2 rows 15 times Shape top K6, (p1, k2) 6 times, p1, k2tog, p1 ssk, p1, (k2, p1) 6 times, k6 K4, purl to last 4sts, k4 Continue decreasing as set in last 2 rows to 47sts Next row: purl 23, p2tog, purl to end 46sts Cast off using 3 needle cast off Or cast off and sew top seam To finish Sew sleeve and side seam, sew on 4 small buttons to match buttonholes Leggings Right Leg Using 4mm needles cast on 16sts Next row K1, m1, k6, m1, k2, m1, k6, m1 k1 Next row Purl Next row K1, m1, k8, m1, k2, m1, k8, m1 k1 24sts Work 9 rows ss * Heel (right side facing) Row 1: K 22, wrt k Row 2: p8, wrt p Row 3: k7, wrt k Row 4: p6, wrt p Row 5: k5, wrt k Row 6: p6, wrt p Row 7: k7, wrt k Row 8: p8, wry p Row 9: knit to end Row 10 Purl across all sts Change to 3.25 needles and work 6 rows in garter stitch Change to 4mm needles Increase row: k2, (m1, k4) 5 times, m1, k2 30sts Next row: purl Continue in stocking stitch inc 1st at each end of next and every following 4th row to 44sts, then every alt row to 50sts. Purl 1 row Shape leg (right side facing) Cast off 2sts knit to end Cast off 4sts purl to end 44sts Leave 44sts on holder Left leg As right leg to * Heel Row 1: K11, wrt k Row 2: p8, wrt p Row 3: k7, wrt k Row 4: p6, wrt p Row 5: k5, wrt k Row 6: p6, wrt p Row 7: k7, wrt k Row 8: p8, wrt p Row 9: knit to end Row 10 Purl across all sts Change to 3.25 needles and work 6 rows in garter stitch Change to 4mm needles Increase row: k2, (m1, k4) 5 times, m1, k2 30sts Next row: purl Continue in stocking stitch inc 1 stitch at each end of next and every following 4th row to 44sts, then every alt row to 50sts. Purl 1 row Cast off 4sts knit to end Cast off 2sts purl to end 44sts Do not fasten off yarn Join legs rows begin at centre back Row 1: knit across 44 sts of left leg then continue across right leg 88sts Row 2: purl Row 3: knit 20, wrap turn Row 4: purl to end Row 5: knit across all sts Row 6: purl 20, wrap turn Row 7: knit to end Row 8: purl across all sts Row 9: knit 19, wrap turn Row 10: purl to end Row 11: knit across all sts Row 12: purl 19, wrap turn Row 13: knit to end Row 14: purl across all sts Row 15: knit 18, wrap turn Row 16: purl to end Row 17: knit across all sts Row 18: purl 18, wrap turn Row 19: knit to end Row 20: purl across all sts **Continue in ss dec 1 stitch at each end of next and every alt row to 78sts Next row: purl Decrease row: k2, (k2tog, k6) 9 times, k2tog, k2 68sts Change to 3.25 needles and work 5 rows k1, p1 rib Cast off. Fasten off yarn (for other dolls omit first 20 rows. Stocking stitch 10 rows then continue from **) To finish sew centre back, inside leg and under leg seams, fasten off ends PDF pattern to download

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Puppen-Schnittmuster in Gr. 30, 33, 36, 43, 48: Lieblings-Tunika und Leggings für Puppen selbernähen. Freebie Download von Stoff & Liebe und Erbsenprinzessin

Strickanleitung für puppen - Was für ein schönes Outfit für deine Puppe!

Annabel Doll 33 cm MATERIALS:  Catania Tr283 – skin colour  Catania 106 - white  Catania 110 - black  Catania 425 - burgundy  Gazzal giza mate 5585 – brown (hair)  8mm black locked eyes  Preferably burgundy ribbon  Half meter of white, 1 meter of black lace  3 pieces of buttons (1 white- 2 black)  2 meter of 2.5 mm wire  2.00 mm hook

This is my first attempt at a jacket for a 14" Baby Annabell Doll. Its made in one piece to the armhole and has raglan shaping. I picked a simple eyelet pattern because I didn't want anything too fussy while I was working out the sizing and stitches. I used a budget yarn which knits up a bit bigger than the more expensive yarns so check your tension and add a few more stitches and rows if necessary. If you make this jacket and find any typos or errors, please let me know. Measurements: 14” 36cm, Baby Annabell doll Actual measurements: Chest 13”, Length centre back 6”, Sleeve seam 3” Materials: 50g double knitting yarn (I used Woolcraft Baby Care in pink), Needles size 3.25mm (US3) and 4mm (US6), 3 small buttons Tension: 22sts - 30 rows to 10cm (4in) in stocking stitch using 4mm needles Abbreviations: Ss: stocking stitch (one row knit, one row purl), gs: garter stitch – every row knit, k: knit, p: purl, inc: increase, dc: decrease, beg: beginning, sts: stitches, tog: together, re: repeat. Yf: yarn forward, ssk: slip next 2sts onto right hand needle then slip left hand needle into front loops and knit them both off together. (or use sl1k1psso) Fronts and Back Worked in one piece to armholes Using smaller needles cast on 77sts Work 6 rows gs Change to larger needles row 1: knit row 2 K4, purl to last 4sts, k4 row 3: (k4, k2tog, yf) 12 times, k5 row 4: K4, purl to last 4sts, k4 row 5: knit row 6: K4, purl to last 4sts, k4 row 7: k3, (k4, k2tog, yf) 11 times, k8 row 8: K4, purl to last 4sts, k4 These 8 rows form the pattern. Repeat pattern once then rows 1 to 4 Divide for armholes (buttonhole) K1, k2tog, yf, patt 15, cast off 4sts, patt 33 (this includes st on right hand needle) cast off 4sts, patt to end Turn and continue on 18sts for left front: K4, purl to last st, k1 K1, ssk, patt to end Repeat last 2 rows to 13sts, ending on neck edge K4, sl these 4sts onto thread, purl to last sts, k1 K1, ssk, patt to last 2sts, k2tog purl to last st, k1 Rep last 2 rows to 3sts P2tog, k1 K2tog Fasten off yarn Re-join yarn to 33st for back, wrong side facing K1, purl to last st, k1 k1, ssk, patt to last 3sts, k2tog, k1 Rep last 2 rows to 17sts ending on wrong side row Fasten off yarn, place sts on a holder Re-join yarn to right front, wrong side facing K1, purl to last 4sts, k4 Patt to last 3sts, k2tog, k1 Rep last 2 rows to 16sts, ending on neck edge (buttonhole) K1, k2tog, yf, k1, patt to last 3sts, k2tog, k1 Continue dec raglan to 13sts, ending on neck edge K4, sl these 4sts onto thread, k2tog, k to last 3sts, k2tog, k1 K1, purl to end k2tog, k to last 3sts, k2tog, k1 K1, purl to end Rep last 2 rows to 3sts k1, p2tog K2tog Fasten off yarn Sleeves Using no smaller cast on 25sts Work 6 rows gs Change to larger needles row 1: knit row 2 purl row 3: k2, (k2tog, yf, k4) 3 times, k2tog, yf, k3 row 4: purl row 5: knit inc 1st each end of row row 6: purl row 7: k6, (k2tog, yf, k4) 3 times, k to end row 8: purl These 8 rows form the pattern. Repeat pattern once. Noting the inc on 5th row. Work inc sts into pattern 29sts Shape armholes Cast off 2sts at beg of next 2 rows K1, ssk, patt to last 3sts, k2tog, k1 K1, purl to last st, k1 Rep the last 2 rows to 9sts, fast off yarn. Place sts on holder Neckband With right side facing and beg a right front edge, using smaller needles, miss 4sts, pick up and knit 7sts up front edge, 9sts across sleeves, k17sts across back, 9sts across sleeve, 7sts down left front edge and 4sts left on thread. (57sts including first 4sts) Knit across all sts Buttonhole k1, k2tog, yf, k to end Knit one row Cast off and fasten off yarn To Finish Sew up raglan seams and sleeve seams. Sew on 3 buttons to match buttonholes. Fasten off all ends PDF pattern to download

I made one for ted so Annabell had to have one too. This is an all in one sleepsuit in double knitting yarn, with raglan shaping. The suit can be made with or without feet. Short rows are used to shape the heel, and as Annabell is a ‘sitting down’ doll a lot of shaping is required for a good fit at the back. However, if your doll is not a ‘sitting down’ type which doesn’t need so much shaping, I have added instructions at the end of the body shaping, but, as all dolls are different, keep trying your knitting against your doll as you go. I made the multi colour suit in King Cole Cherish and the blue suit in a double knit yarn I had in my stash. The knitted heart can be found on this site. If you find any mistakes in the pattern or have any queries please let me know. A few people have asked me about wrap and turn for the shaping. Here's a good tutorial to explain it far better that I can! Wrap stitches Measurements: 14” 36cm, Baby Annabell doll Actual measurements: Chest 14”, Sleeve seam 3” Materials: 100g double knitting yarn (I used King Cole Cherish Caramel), Needles size 3.25mm (US3)and 4mm (US 6) 4 small buttons Tension: 22sts - 28 rows to 10cm (4in) in stocking stitch using 4mm needles Abbreviations: Ss: stocking stitch (one row knit, one row purl), gs: garter stitch – every row knit, k: knit, p: purl, inc: increase, dc: decrease, beg: beginning, sts: stitches, tog: together, re: repeat. Yf: yarn forward wrt k: wrap and turn knitwise - yf, sl st from left hand needle onto right hand needle, yb, sl st back onto left hand needle, turn, (pull yarn firmly to avoid a hole) wrt p: wrap and turn purlwise - yb, sl st from left hand needle onto right hand needle, yf, sl st back onto left hand needle, turn, (pull yarn firmly to avoid a hole) Worked from the ankle up Left leg Using larger needles cast on 14sts Row 1: k1, m1, k5, m1, k2 m1, k5, m1, k1 Row 2: purl Row 3: k1, m1, k7, m1, k2 m1, k7, m1, k1 (22sts) Beg with purl row work 9 rows ss* Shape heel right side facing Row 1: K8, wrt k Row 2: p5, wrt p Row 3: k4,wrt k Row 4: p3, wrt p Row 5: k4, wrt k Row 6: p5, wrt p Row 7: k6, wrt k Row 8: purl to end Work 2 rows ss Increase row: (k3, m1) 6 times, k4 28sts Next row: purl Continue in ss inc 1 stitch at each end of 5th, then every 4th row to 46sts ending on a purl row Next row: cast off 4ssts knit to end Next row: cast off 2sts purl to end. Fasten off yarn and leave 40sts on holder Right Leg As left leg to * Shape heel right side facing Row 1: Knit to last 3sts, wrt k Row 2: p5, wrt p Row 3: k4, wrt k Row 4: p3, wrt p Row 5: k4, wrt k Row 6: p5, wrt p Row 7: k6, wrt k Row 8: purl to end Work 2 rows ss Increase row: (k3, m1) 6 times, k4 28sts Next row: purl Continue in ss inc 1 stitch at each end of 5th, then every 4th row to 46sts ending on a purl row Next row: cast off 2sts knit to end Next row: cast off 4sts purl to end. (40sts) Do not fasten off yarn Join Legs Knit across 40sts of right leg then continue across 40st of left leg (80sts) Purl 1 row Shaping Row 1: k58, wrt k Row 2: p36, wrt p Row 3 knit to end Row 4: purl across all sts Row 5: k57, wrt k Row 6: p34, wrt p Row 7 knit to end Row 8: purl across all sts Row 9: k56, wrt k Row 10: p32, wrt p Row 11 knit to end Row 12: purl across all sts Row 13: k55, wrt k Row 14: p30, wrt p Row 15 knit to end Row 16: purl across all sts Dec row: k16, k2tog, k44, k2tog, k16 Next row: purl (for other dolls miss wrap rows: 9,10, 13 and 14) Cast off 2sts at beg of next 2 rowsj Work 10 rows ss Divide for Armholes K15, cast off 4sts, k36 (this includes st on right hand needle) cast off 4sts, k15, turn Continue on 15sts for left front Purl to last st, k1 K1,ssk, k to end Repeat last 2 rows to 11sts, ending on neck edge purl to last sts, k1 K1, ssk, k to last 2sts, k2tog purl to last st, k1 Rep last 2 rows to 3sts P2tog, k1 K2tog Fasten off yarn Re-join yarn to 36st for back, wrong side facing K1, purl to last st, k1 K1, ssk, k to last 3sts, k2tog, k1 Rep last 2 rows to 20sts ending on wrong side row Fasten off yarn, place sts on a holder Re-join yarn to right front, wrong side facing K1, purl to end Knit to last 3sts, k2tog, k1 Rep last 2 rows to 11sts, ending on neck edge k2tog, k to last 3sts, k2tog, k1 K1, purl to end k2tog, k to last 3sts, k2tog, k1 K1, purl to end Rep last 2 rows to 3sts k1, p2tog K2tog Fasten off yarn Sleeves Using smaller needles cast on 25sts Work 6 rows k1, p1 rib Change to larger needles Working in ss inc 1 stitch at each end of next and following 4th row. 29sts Work 10 rows ss Shape armholes Cast off 2sts at beg of next 2 rows K1, ssk, patt to last 3sts, k2tog, k1 K1, purl to last st, k1 Rep the last 2 rows to 9sts, fast off yarn. Place sts on holder Neckband Sew raglan seams With right side facing using smaller needles, pick up and knit 8sts along right side neck edge, knit 9sts along top of sleeve, knit 9sts, k2tog, k9 along top of back, knit 9sts along top of sleeve, pick up and knit 8st down left neck edge. 53sts Work 5 rows k1, p1 rib. Cast off Left front band With right side facing, using smaller needles, pick up and knit 25sts along left front edge, starting at neck edge to first set off cast off sts. Work 5 rows k1, p1 rib. Cast off Right front band With right side facing, using smaller needles, pick up and knit 25sts along right front edge starting at first set of cast off sts to neck edge. Work 2 rows k1, p1 rib. Buttonhole row: rib2, (yf, k2tog, rib 4) 3 times, yf, k2tog, k3 Rib 2 rows. Cast off Sew side seams of legs and sleeves Overlap front bands and sew into place at centre front Sew on 4 buttons to correspond with buttonholes. Sew in all ends Sleepsuit without feet Left leg Using smaller needles cast on 28sts Work 8 rows k1, p1 rib Change to larger needles Continue in ss, inc 1 stitch at each end of next and every following 4th row to 42sts, then every alt row to 46sts ending on a purl row Next row: cast off 4sts knit to end Next row: cast off 2sts purl to end. Fasten off yarn and leave 40sts on holder Right leg Using smaller needles cast on 28sts Work 8 rows k1, p1 rib Change to larger needles Continue in ss, inc 1 stitch at each end of next and every following 4th row to 42sts, then every alt row to 46sts ending on a purl row Next row: cast off 2sts knit to end Next row: cast off 4sts purl to end. (40sts) do not fasten off yarn Continue as sleepsuit above from ** PDF pattern to download

Puppenkleider stricken anleitung - Ein schlichtes, aber ganz liebenswertes Outfit für Ihre Puppe; wirklich einfach zu stricken

Mit dem Schnittmuster Puppenlöwenzahn von Firlefanz kannst du eine locker sitzende Kuschelhose mit eingefassten Trägern für Puppen in den Größen von 25 bis 50 cm selber nähen. Der Puppenlöwenzahn ist für alle gängigen Puppenmodelle geeignet. Es gibt spezielle Varianten extra für Hartkörper-Babypuppen, Weichkörperpuppen und schmalere Waldorfpuppen.

I made one for ted so Annabell had to have one too. This is an all in one sleepsuit in double knitting yarn, with raglan shaping. The suit can be made with or without feet. Short rows are used to shape the heel, and as Annabell is a ‘sitting down’ doll a lot of shaping is required for a good fit at the back. However, if your doll is not a ‘sitting down’ type which doesn’t need so much shaping, I have added instructions at the end of the body shaping, but, as all dolls are different, keep trying your knitting against your doll as you go. I made the multi colour suit in King Cole Cherish and the blue suit in a double knit yarn I had in my stash. The knitted heart can be found on this site. If you find any mistakes in the pattern or have any queries please let me know. A few people have asked me about wrap and turn for the shaping. Here's a good tutorial to explain it far better that I can! Wrap stitches Measurements: 14” 36cm, Baby Annabell doll Actual measurements: Chest 14”, Sleeve seam 3” Materials: 100g double knitting yarn (I used King Cole Cherish Caramel), Needles size 3.25mm (US3)and 4mm (US 6) 4 small buttons Tension: 22sts - 28 rows to 10cm (4in) in stocking stitch using 4mm needles Abbreviations: Ss: stocking stitch (one row knit, one row purl), gs: garter stitch – every row knit, k: knit, p: purl, inc: increase, dc: decrease, beg: beginning, sts: stitches, tog: together, re: repeat. Yf: yarn forward wrt k: wrap and turn knitwise - yf, sl st from left hand needle onto right hand needle, yb, sl st back onto left hand needle, turn, (pull yarn firmly to avoid a hole) wrt p: wrap and turn purlwise - yb, sl st from left hand needle onto right hand needle, yf, sl st back onto left hand needle, turn, (pull yarn firmly to avoid a hole) Worked from the ankle up Left leg Using larger needles cast on 14sts Row 1: k1, m1, k5, m1, k2 m1, k5, m1, k1 Row 2: purl Row 3: k1, m1, k7, m1, k2 m1, k7, m1, k1 (22sts) Beg with purl row work 9 rows ss* Shape heel right side facing Row 1: K8, wrt k Row 2: p5, wrt p Row 3: k4,wrt k Row 4: p3, wrt p Row 5: k4, wrt k Row 6: p5, wrt p Row 7: k6, wrt k Row 8: purl to end Work 2 rows ss Increase row: (k3, m1) 6 times, k4 28sts Next row: purl Continue in ss inc 1 stitch at each end of 5th, then every 4th row to 46sts ending on a purl row Next row: cast off 4ssts knit to end Next row: cast off 2sts purl to end. Fasten off yarn and leave 40sts on holder Right Leg As left leg to * Shape heel right side facing Row 1: Knit to last 3sts, wrt k Row 2: p5, wrt p Row 3: k4, wrt k Row 4: p3, wrt p Row 5: k4, wrt k Row 6: p5, wrt p Row 7: k6, wrt k Row 8: purl to end Work 2 rows ss Increase row: (k3, m1) 6 times, k4 28sts Next row: purl Continue in ss inc 1 stitch at each end of 5th, then every 4th row to 46sts ending on a purl row Next row: cast off 2sts knit to end Next row: cast off 4sts purl to end. (40sts) Do not fasten off yarn Join Legs Knit across 40sts of right leg then continue across 40st of left leg (80sts) Purl 1 row Shaping Row 1: k58, wrt k Row 2: p36, wrt p Row 3 knit to end Row 4: purl across all sts Row 5: k57, wrt k Row 6: p34, wrt p Row 7 knit to end Row 8: purl across all sts Row 9: k56, wrt k Row 10: p32, wrt p Row 11 knit to end Row 12: purl across all sts Row 13: k55, wrt k Row 14: p30, wrt p Row 15 knit to end Row 16: purl across all sts Dec row: k16, k2tog, k44, k2tog, k16 Next row: purl (for other dolls miss wrap rows: 9,10, 13 and 14) Cast off 2sts at beg of next 2 rowsj Work 10 rows ss Divide for Armholes K15, cast off 4sts, k36 (this includes st on right hand needle) cast off 4sts, k15, turn Continue on 15sts for left front Purl to last st, k1 K1,ssk, k to end Repeat last 2 rows to 11sts, ending on neck edge purl to last sts, k1 K1, ssk, k to last 2sts, k2tog purl to last st, k1 Rep last 2 rows to 3sts P2tog, k1 K2tog Fasten off yarn Re-join yarn to 36st for back, wrong side facing K1, purl to last st, k1 K1, ssk, k to last 3sts, k2tog, k1 Rep last 2 rows to 20sts ending on wrong side row Fasten off yarn, place sts on a holder Re-join yarn to right front, wrong side facing K1, purl to end Knit to last 3sts, k2tog, k1 Rep last 2 rows to 11sts, ending on neck edge k2tog, k to last 3sts, k2tog, k1 K1, purl to end k2tog, k to last 3sts, k2tog, k1 K1, purl to end Rep last 2 rows to 3sts k1, p2tog K2tog Fasten off yarn Sleeves Using smaller needles cast on 25sts Work 6 rows k1, p1 rib Change to larger needles Working in ss inc 1 stitch at each end of next and following 4th row. 29sts Work 10 rows ss Shape armholes Cast off 2sts at beg of next 2 rows K1, ssk, patt to last 3sts, k2tog, k1 K1, purl to last st, k1 Rep the last 2 rows to 9sts, fast off yarn. Place sts on holder Neckband Sew raglan seams With right side facing using smaller needles, pick up and knit 8sts along right side neck edge, knit 9sts along top of sleeve, knit 9sts, k2tog, k9 along top of back, knit 9sts along top of sleeve, pick up and knit 8st down left neck edge. 53sts Work 5 rows k1, p1 rib. Cast off Left front band With right side facing, using smaller needles, pick up and knit 25sts along left front edge, starting at neck edge to first set off cast off sts. Work 5 rows k1, p1 rib. Cast off Right front band With right side facing, using smaller needles, pick up and knit 25sts along right front edge starting at first set of cast off sts to neck edge. Work 2 rows k1, p1 rib. Buttonhole row: rib2, (yf, k2tog, rib 4) 3 times, yf, k2tog, k3 Rib 2 rows. Cast off Sew side seams of legs and sleeves Overlap front bands and sew into place at centre front Sew on 4 buttons to correspond with buttonholes. Sew in all ends Sleepsuit without feet Left leg Using smaller needles cast on 28sts Work 8 rows k1, p1 rib Change to larger needles Continue in ss, inc 1 stitch at each end of next and every following 4th row to 42sts, then every alt row to 46sts ending on a purl row Next row: cast off 4sts knit to end Next row: cast off 2sts purl to end. Fasten off yarn and leave 40sts on holder Right leg Using smaller needles cast on 28sts Work 8 rows k1, p1 rib Change to larger needles Continue in ss, inc 1 stitch at each end of next and every following 4th row to 42sts, then every alt row to 46sts ending on a purl row Next row: cast off 2sts knit to end Next row: cast off 4sts purl to end. (40sts) do not fasten off yarn Continue as sleepsuit above from ** PDF pattern to download

While browsing online for ideas, I came across a lovely red and white fairisle knitted baby dress for sale. As there aren't any babies in my family to knit for, (don't they grow up so fast) I made this for Annabell. Then I found some bright yellow yarn in my stash so along with cream and a touch of green knitted up the second dress. Now, as I may have mentioned before, I love knitting socks, especially tiny little socks like these which complete the outfit. Iv'e given instructions for single point needles, but the dress can easily be adapted to knit in the round. I knit the yellow dress and socks on 4mm circular needles which worked well The sleeves are made first, then the dress in one piece to armhole shaping, the pieces are then joined to knit the yoke. There is a small back opening for ease of fit. There are two patterns for the socks; one on spnds and the other dpns. I found the pattern easier to write this way and avoids confusion. The socks are quite short but can easily be lengthened by adding a few more rows or a rib. I love my hobby of designing patterns and posting them online. But I often can’t find anyone who has the time to test my patterns, although I do knit them up a few times myself. So mistakes can slip by, especially typos when transferring the pattern to my blog. So, please, please, if you find and errors or have any queries, let me know either by commenting below or contacting me via the contact form. Thanks To fit: 14”/36cm Baby Annabell doll Actual measurements: Dress: Chest 14”, sleeve seam 3”, length from shoulder to hem 8” You will need: Dress and socks: 50g red and 10g white dk yarn, 4mm and 3.25 needles, 1 small button Tension (Gauge): 24sts x 28 rows using 4mm needles in stocking stitch over 10cm Abbreviations k: knit, p: purl, st(s): stitch(es), tog: together, garter stitch: every row knit, yf: yarn forward, yb: yarn back, ssk: slip next 2 sts onto right hand needle, insert left hand needle into the front loops of both stitches then knit them together (or use s1,k1,psso) inc: increase by knit into first loop then knit into back loop of same stitch (kfb), m1: pick up loop between sts and knit into back of it. If knitting in the round reverse stitches on alternate rows. There is a separate pattern for socks knit in the round. Dress Sleeves Using 3.25mm needles, and red, cast on 26sts and knit 6 rows garter stitch Change to 4mm needles and stocking stitch, follow rows 1 to 4 of chart Fasten off white Work 14 rows stocking stitch inc 1 stitch at each end of next and following 5th row 30sts Cast off 3sts at beginingof next 2 rows Fasten off yarn and leave 24sts on holder Front and back Rows start at centre back Using 3.25mm needles and red, cast on 120sts and knit 6 rows garter stitch Change to 4mm needles and stocking stitch, work 2 rows Follow rows 1 to 15 of chart Fasten off white Continue in stocking stitch until work measures 5” Change to 3.25 needles Decrease row: k4, (k2tog) 26 times, k8, (k2tog) 26 times, k4 68sts knit 6 rows garter stitch Change to 4mm needles Divide for armholes (wrong side facing) p14, cast off 6sts, p28, cast off 6sts, p14 Join sleeves (right side facing) Row 1: K14, knit across 24sts of first sleeve, k28, knit across 24sts of second sleeve, k14 104sts Row 2: purl Shaping Row 3: k11, (K2tog, ssk, k22) 3 times, K2tog, ssk, k11 96sts Row 4: p11, (k2, p22) 3 times,, k2, p11 Row 5: k10, (K2tog, ssk, k20) 3 times, K2tog, ssk, k10 88sts Row 6: p10, (k2, p20) 3 times,, k2, p10 Continue decreasing as set to 72sts ending on a wrong side row Divide for back opening. If knitting in the round change to rows here Row 11: cast on 3sts, k10, (k2tog, skk, k14) 3 times, K2tog, skk, k7 67sts Row 12: k3, p4, (k2, p14) 3 times, k2, p9, k1 Row 13: change to 3.25 needles: k5(k2tog, k3) 11 times, k2tog, k5 55 sts Row 14: buttonhole k2tog, yf, knit to end Work 2 rows garter stitch, fasten off red and join white Knit one row, cast off. To finish Sew sleeve seam, Sew back seam to beginning of opening, stitch back flap to underside, sew on button to match buttonhole Fasten off all ends Socks Left sock knit from toe up Rows begin at inner leg Using 4mm needles and red cast on 14sts Row 1: k1, m1, k5, m1, k2 m1, k5, m1, k1 Row 2: purl Row 3: k1, m1, k7, m1, k2 m1, k7, m1, k1 (22sts) Beg with purl row work 9 rows ss* Instructions for wrap and turn to shape the heel Knit row yf, sl st from left hand needle onto right hand needle, yb, sl st back onto left hand needle turn Purl row yb, sl st from left hand needle onto right hand needle, yf, sl st back onto left hand needle turn This will be abbreviated to wrt in the pattern When wrapping stitches pull the wrapped st firmly to avoid a hole Shape heel right side facing Row 1: K8, wrt Row 2: p5, wrt Row 3: k4, wrt Row 4: p3 wrt Row 5: k4, wrt Row 6: p5, wrt Row 7: k6, wrt Row 8: purl to end Work 7 rows stocking stitch inc 1 stitch at each end of next and following 4th row (26sts) Wrong side facing - Join in white and work first 2 rows of chart fasten off red Using white purl one row Cast off Right sock As left sock to * Shape heel right side facing Row 1: Knit to last 3sts, wrt Row 2: p5, wrt Continue as left sock Sew toe and side seams. Fasten of ends For plain socks omit chart rows and work 3 rows k1, p1 rib Socks in the round (both the same) knit from toe up Rounds begin at centre back Using 4mm needles and red cast on 14sts, join into round Round 1: k1, m1, k5, m1, k2 m1, k5, m1, k1 Round 2: knit Round 3: k1, m1, k7, m1, k2 m1, k7, m1, k1 (22sts) Rounds 4 to 9: knit Shape heel Round 1: K3, yf, sl st from left hand needle onto right hand needle, yb, sl st back onto left hand needle, turn (wrt) Round 2: p6, yb, sl st from left hand needle onto right hand needle, yf, sl st back onto left hand needle turn (wrt) Round 3: k5, wrt Round 4: p4, wrt Round 5: k5, wrt Round 6: p6, wrt Round 8: k3 (this should be at the beg of round) Work 1 round Next round: k3, m1, k to last 3sts, m1, k3 Work 3 rounds Next round: k4, m1, k to last 4sts, m1, k4 Work 1 round Join in white and work first 2 rounds of chart, fasten off white Work 1 round. Cast off Sew toe seam and fasten off all ends For plain socks omit chart rows and work 3 rounds k1, p1 rib. Chart PDF pattern to download

Lade dir hier das Puppenshirt als Freebook kostenlos herunter. Eine Nähanleitung findest du wie immer auch auf dem Lybstes Blog.

Heute haben wir wieder etwas tolles für die Puppenomas, -opas, -tanten, -onkel und was Puppen sonst noch an nähender Verwandschaft haben:Â Passend zur

Puppenkleidung stricken anleitung - Ein bequemer und niedlicher Sommeranzug, super passend für Ihre Puppe an einem heißen Sommertag

puppenkleid stricken anleitung - Ihre Puppe wird die Ballkönigin sein in ihrem neuen wunderschönen Outfit

Strickanleitung für puppen - Was für ein schönes Outfit für deine Puppe!

While browsing online for ideas, I came across a lovely red and white fairisle knitted baby dress for sale. As there aren't any babies in my family to knit for, (don't they grow up so fast) I made this for Annabell. Then I found some bright yellow yarn in my stash so along with cream and a touch of green knitted up the second dress. Now, as I may have mentioned before, I love knitting socks, especially tiny little socks like these which complete the outfit. Iv'e given instructions for single point needles, but the dress can easily be adapted to knit in the round. I knit the yellow dress and socks on 4mm circular needles which worked well The sleeves are made first, then the dress in one piece to armhole shaping, the pieces are then joined to knit the yoke. There is a small back opening for ease of fit. There are two patterns for the socks; one on spnds and the other dpns. I found the pattern easier to write this way and avoids confusion. The socks are quite short but can easily be lengthened by adding a few more rows or a rib. I love my hobby of designing patterns and posting them online. But I often can’t find anyone who has the time to test my patterns, although I do knit them up a few times myself. So mistakes can slip by, especially typos when transferring the pattern to my blog. So, please, please, if you find and errors or have any queries, let me know either by commenting below or contacting me via the contact form. Thanks To fit: 14”/36cm Baby Annabell doll Actual measurements: Dress: Chest 14”, sleeve seam 3”, length from shoulder to hem 8” You will need: Dress and socks: 50g red and 10g white dk yarn, 4mm and 3.25 needles, 1 small button Tension (Gauge): 24sts x 28 rows using 4mm needles in stocking stitch over 10cm Abbreviations k: knit, p: purl, st(s): stitch(es), tog: together, garter stitch: every row knit, yf: yarn forward, yb: yarn back, ssk: slip next 2 sts onto right hand needle, insert left hand needle into the front loops of both stitches then knit them together (or use s1,k1,psso) inc: increase by knit into first loop then knit into back loop of same stitch (kfb), m1: pick up loop between sts and knit into back of it. If knitting in the round reverse stitches on alternate rows. There is a separate pattern for socks knit in the round. Dress Sleeves Using 3.25mm needles, and red, cast on 26sts and knit 6 rows garter stitch Change to 4mm needles and stocking stitch, follow rows 1 to 4 of chart Fasten off white Work 14 rows stocking stitch inc 1 stitch at each end of next and following 5th row 30sts Cast off 3sts at beginingof next 2 rows Fasten off yarn and leave 24sts on holder Front and back Rows start at centre back Using 3.25mm needles and red, cast on 120sts and knit 6 rows garter stitch Change to 4mm needles and stocking stitch, work 2 rows Follow rows 1 to 15 of chart Fasten off white Continue in stocking stitch until work measures 5” Change to 3.25 needles Decrease row: k4, (k2tog) 26 times, k8, (k2tog) 26 times, k4 68sts knit 6 rows garter stitch Change to 4mm needles Divide for armholes (wrong side facing) p14, cast off 6sts, p28, cast off 6sts, p14 Join sleeves (right side facing) Row 1: K14, knit across 24sts of first sleeve, k28, knit across 24sts of second sleeve, k14 104sts Row 2: purl Shaping Row 3: k11, (K2tog, ssk, k22) 3 times, K2tog, ssk, k11 96sts Row 4: p11, (k2, p22) 3 times,, k2, p11 Row 5: k10, (K2tog, ssk, k20) 3 times, K2tog, ssk, k10 88sts Row 6: p10, (k2, p20) 3 times,, k2, p10 Continue decreasing as set to 72sts ending on a wrong side row Divide for back opening. If knitting in the round change to rows here Row 11: cast on 3sts, k10, (k2tog, skk, k14) 3 times, K2tog, skk, k7 67sts Row 12: k3, p4, (k2, p14) 3 times, k2, p9, k1 Row 13: change to 3.25 needles: k5(k2tog, k3) 11 times, k2tog, k5 55 sts Row 14: buttonhole k2tog, yf, knit to end Work 2 rows garter stitch, fasten off red and join white Knit one row, cast off. To finish Sew sleeve seam, Sew back seam to beginning of opening, stitch back flap to underside, sew on button to match buttonhole Fasten off all ends Socks Left sock knit from toe up Rows begin at inner leg Using 4mm needles and red cast on 14sts Row 1: k1, m1, k5, m1, k2 m1, k5, m1, k1 Row 2: purl Row 3: k1, m1, k7, m1, k2 m1, k7, m1, k1 (22sts) Beg with purl row work 9 rows ss* Instructions for wrap and turn to shape the heel Knit row yf, sl st from left hand needle onto right hand needle, yb, sl st back onto left hand needle turn Purl row yb, sl st from left hand needle onto right hand needle, yf, sl st back onto left hand needle turn This will be abbreviated to wrt in the pattern When wrapping stitches pull the wrapped st firmly to avoid a hole Shape heel right side facing Row 1: K8, wrt Row 2: p5, wrt Row 3: k4, wrt Row 4: p3 wrt Row 5: k4, wrt Row 6: p5, wrt Row 7: k6, wrt Row 8: purl to end Work 7 rows stocking stitch inc 1 stitch at each end of next and following 4th row (26sts) Wrong side facing - Join in white and work first 2 rows of chart fasten off red Using white purl one row Cast off Right sock As left sock to * Shape heel right side facing Row 1: Knit to last 3sts, wrt Row 2: p5, wrt Continue as left sock Sew toe and side seams. Fasten of ends For plain socks omit chart rows and work 3 rows k1, p1 rib Socks in the round (both the same) knit from toe up Rounds begin at centre back Using 4mm needles and red cast on 14sts, join into round Round 1: k1, m1, k5, m1, k2 m1, k5, m1, k1 Round 2: knit Round 3: k1, m1, k7, m1, k2 m1, k7, m1, k1 (22sts) Rounds 4 to 9: knit Shape heel Round 1: K3, yf, sl st from left hand needle onto right hand needle, yb, sl st back onto left hand needle, turn (wrt) Round 2: p6, yb, sl st from left hand needle onto right hand needle, yf, sl st back onto left hand needle turn (wrt) Round 3: k5, wrt Round 4: p4, wrt Round 5: k5, wrt Round 6: p6, wrt Round 8: k3 (this should be at the beg of round) Work 1 round Next round: k3, m1, k to last 3sts, m1, k3 Work 3 rounds Next round: k4, m1, k to last 4sts, m1, k4 Work 1 round Join in white and work first 2 rounds of chart, fasten off white Work 1 round. Cast off Sew toe seam and fasten off all ends For plain socks omit chart rows and work 3 rounds k1, p1 rib. Chart PDF pattern to download

baby born kleidung stricken anleitung - Das Puppen-Frühjahrsoutfit - in blau und grau

Sommer Strickwaren für Ihre Puppe

Poppenkleding baby born - “alledaagse kleding” gebreid voor mijn pop

Als fürsorgliche Puppenmama oder liebevoller Puppenpapa gehört auch das Wickeln zum täglichen Spielen. Mit den Puppenwindeln aus dem BERNINA Blog macht das ab jetzt richtig Spaß. … Mehr erfahren!

Du möchtest eine Beanie-Mütze für eine Puppe häkeln? Dann bist du bei Schatzenkind richtig - wir haben eine tolle Anleitung für dich! Auf die Häkelnadel, fertig, los!

Baby Annabell Puppen Helm »Active Fahrradhelm, 43 cm« Art.-Nr.: 9210925061 Fahrradhelm »Active, 43 cm« für Puppen Ab 3 Jahren Für Puppen in Größe 43 cm geeignet Mit verstellbaren Riemen Fördert die Fantasie und bringt neue Spielanregungen und –möglichkeiten Safety first! Natürlich steht bei der Fahrradtour mit Baby Annabell Sicherheit an erster Stelle. Im Fahrradsitz wird sie gut angeschnallt und bekommt ihren Fahrradhelm auf. Der weiße Helm mit dem ausgeformten Schäfchen an der Seite und dem originellen rosa Windschild schützt Baby Annabells Köpfchen. Durch die blauen Riemen sitzt er perfekt und verrutscht auch nicht, wenn es mal über Stock und Stein geht. Die Schließriemen können verstellt werden, so dass Sophia den Helm ebenfalls tragen kann. Die elegante Kopfbedeckung ist mit einem tollen Blumenmuster bedruckt. Baby Annabells Antrieb läuft nämlich mit Flower Power. Produktdetails Farbe bunt Ausstattung verstellbare Riemen Geeignet für Puppengröße 43 cm Hinweise Warnhinweise Nicht für Kinder unter 36 Monaten da Gefahr der Schlaufenbildung. Strangulationsgefahr. Nur für Puppen geeignet Mehr Produkteigenschaften anzeigen

I wish there had been a knitting pattern for a sleeping bag when my children were babies (a long time ago now) and as I haven't got any babies to knit for what better than to make one for Annabell. I tried a few different variations to try and reduce seaming etc, and came up with this one that is made in one piece from the hem with a front seam (easily knit in the round to the front opening) The sleeves are knit first then added to the body to begin the yoke. My very helpful tester suggested that the sleeping bag could be altered for a 12” doll by making 3 fewer stitches on each side front and the back 6 fewer, and just 1 row of stocking stitch on the sleeves after increases are done. You would have to adjust the stitches of shaping of the yoke to match. Measurements: 14” 36cm, Baby Annabell doll Actual measurements: Chest 14”, Sleeve seam 3” length from centre back to hem 12” Materials: 100g double knitting yarn in main and 10g dk in contrast (I used King Cole Cherish Whisper, and King Cole Cherish nickel for contrast), Needles size 3.25mm (US3) and 4mm (US 6) 4 small buttons Tension: 22sts - 28 rows to 10cm (4in) in stocking stitch using 4mm needles Sleeves make 2 – (knit these first) Using 3.25 needles and contrast, cast on 24sts Work 6 rows k1, p1 rib Change to 4mm needles and main Working in ss inc 1 stitch at each end of next and following 4th row to 30sts Work 9 rows ss Shape armholes Cast off 3sts at beg of next 2 rows Leave 24sts on holder Body Worked in one piece to front opening Using 4mm needles cast on 100sts Continue in ss until work measures 8ins (can be knit in the round to this point then change to rows) Cast of 3sts at the beg of next 2 rows 94sts Work a further 11 rows ss Divide for armholes Wrong side facing P19, cast off 6sts, p44 (includes st on right hand needle) cast off 6sts, p19 do not fasten off yarn Join sleeves Work across right front: K4, (k2tog) 3 times, k9, knit across 24sts of first sleeve, continue across back: k14, (k2tog) 8 times, k14, knit across 24sts of second sleeve, continue across left front: k9, (k2tog) 3 times, k4 116sts Next row (wrong side): knit across all sts Shape yoke Row 1: k14, ssk, k2tog, k20, ssk, k2tog, k32, ssk, k2tog, k20, ssk, k2tog, k14 108sts Row 2: knit Row 3: k13, ssk, k2tog, k18, ssk, k2tog, k30, ssk, k2tog, k18, ssk, k2tog, k13 100sts Row 4: purl Row 5: k12, ssk, k2tog, k16, ssk, k2tog, k28, ssk, k2tog, k16, ssk, k2tog, k12 92sts Row 6: purl Row 7: k11, ssk, k2tog, k14, ssk, k2tog, k26, ssk, k2tog, k14, ssk, k2tog, k11 84sts Continue decreasing as set to 52sts Next row: p25, p2tog, p25 51sts Change to 3.25mm needles and contrast, work 4rows k1, p1 rib. Cast off (you can go straight to picking up sts for left band if you prefer) Left front band With right side facing, using 3.25mm needles, and contrast, pick up and knit 25sts along left front edge, starting at neck edge to first set off cast off sts. Work 5 rows p1, k1 rib. Cast off Right front band With right side facing, using 3.25 needles, and contrast, pick up and knit 25sts along right front edge starting at first set of cast off sts to neck edge. Work 2 rows p1, k1 rib. Buttonhole row: rib2, (yf, k2tog, rib 4) 3 times, yf, k2tog, k3 Rib 2 rows. Cast off To finish Sew centre front seam to opening, Overlap front bands and sew into place at centre front. Sew front and backs together at hem Sew sleeve and underarms seams Sew on 4 buttons to match buttonholes. Sew in all ends PDF pattern to download

Doll knitting patterns for Baby born

Breipatroenen pop - Wat een mooie outfit voor je pop!

Mit meiner kostenlosen Bild-Anleitung könnt Ihr ganz leicht Puppenkleidung selber nähen. Hier gibt’s die Nähanleitung für ein Puppen Shirt.

Jurkje met bloemmotief uit de tijd dat we klein waren

The pattern is for a two piece outfit to fit 14" Baby Annabell doll. The pants are knit from the knee up with a shaped bib at front and back. As Annabell is a ‘sitting down’ doll a lot of shaping is required for a good fit at the back. However, I have given suggestions if your doll is not a ‘sitting down’ type which doesn’t need so much shaping The top can be plain or striped. It's knit in one piece from the hem up to the armhole then combined with the sleeves to make the yoke. For the pants you will need about 50g of dk, plus 2 small buttons The top is 50g dk and 20g contrast for a striped version, plus 1 small button.

Die Pumphose ist für Frühchen und Babys. Es gibt das kostenlose Schnittmuster in Größe 38-122.