5pc Set Sci Fi Cubic Stones is from Print Your Monsters - These are quite large and very detailed printed of solid Resin! This will add a lot of flavor to any gaming story and session. So Versatile you'll find yourself using it over and over. Depending on your paint scheme you could use this for ice, alien, or underdark, even jungle terrain. They will also make a great addition to your homemade terrain pieces and dioramas. Comes unpainted. These have amazing detail printed with the Monochrome LCD resin printer!!! ***THESE ITEMS ARE PRINTED AS ORDERED*** Size: The Tallest plant is just over 45mm So these are a nice size!! This 3D printed Model/Terrain comes in color gray and properly scaled for a standard 28mm/32mm Tabletop game (Please see the size comparison photo with the Model/Terrain is ready to use on your favorite Role Playing Game. If you want a bigger or smaller scale please don't hesitate to contact us. We take great pride in the quality of our prints! You will not be disappointed! ♺ About the material: We use a high quality UV curing resin. All supports are removed, hand cleaned, and cured. Some large models are hallowed out to reduce weight for shipping and cost of the print. All efforts will be taken to provide the cleanest and easiest to assemble model as possible. Resin model kits are not perfect and there should be some level of expectation that minor gaps, support marks, or other imperfections may be present and would need to be addressed when assembling the kit. As such, these types of minor imperfections will not be a case for returns.♺ If for some reason you are not satisfied, please contact us prior to providing negative reviews or feedback. We will do our best to help address any issues. ©️ We are an official licensed seller for Print Your Monsters. Source models are designed by Print Your Monsters and STL files can be purchased from him. This miniature/terrain is great for any tabletop gaming including but not limited to: Dungeons & Dragons Pathfinder Dark Fantasy themed games Tabletop Boardgame miniatures or in 5pc Set Giant Outer World Mangrove Plantany other setting
Blog showcasing my projects involving PC Modding, Liquid Cooling, RC Cars, Quadcopter Drones, Potato Canons, Firearms, and anything else I find fun!
Scroll Down for a full materials list and plan downloads. The PVC Maker Bench is the perfect table for hobbyists and makers who need a fully customized, inexpensive, yet rugged work table or bench. You can adjust the frame to your favorite t (hollow-core doors, Ikea tabletops, plywood, etc.) with a few simple changes. Sturdy yet lightweight. Perfect for Makers, hobbyists, or other craft or table display events Excellent workshop platform for areas with minimal space, such as classrooms and makerspaces More cost-effective than metal versions Can be built with or without casters to increase mobility in a workshop or garage.
Project Index TableTop Arcade - Raspberry Pi 3 & RetroPie Setup, Part 1 TableTop Arcade - Raspberry Pi 3 & RetroPie Setup, Part 2 TableTop Arcade - Controller & Parts Selection TableTop Arcade - Cabinet Construction & Cutting TableTop Arcade - Assembly, Electrical, and Painting TableTop Arcade - Artwork, Speakers, Marquee TableTop Arcade - Wiring and Wrapping Up TableTop Arcade - Final Build Pics Assembly Now that all of our wood pieces have been cut out and prepped, its time to start putting this thing together! This part was a bit more tricky than I had anticipated, and took a lot of trial and error to get everything to line up perfectly. The idea is to use small wood "batons" to act as supports and stops for the various panels. The picture below shows how they are used to block the various panels into place. The key is to stat with one side first, get everything lined up how you want it, and mark your joints. Then mark those same joints on the other side before you start gluing or nailing anything down. I used painters tape to hold everything together while testing out the fit of my markings just to be sure. After you have marked both sides, and are pleased with the fit, its time to secure everything to the panels. I used a combination of wood glue and brad nails. You can probably get away with just using wood glue, but with an air compressor, putting in a few brad nails for extra support is an easy task. Once all of the batons were secure and in place, its time to begin putting everything together. Starting with the monitor panel, I worked my way around the cabinet, gluing and clamping down the various pieces as can be seen below. If your measurements are good, everything will fit together neatly. Keep things clamped together for at least a few hours before you move the cabinet. I recommend letting it sit with the clamps on overnight. Electrical Wiring With the cabinet assembled and the glue drying, it went ahead and added the modular power inlet. This using a standard computer / monitor power cable, which I then wired directly to a surge protected power strip. Pretty simple to install, just cut a hole to fit, and after a bit of file work, made sure that it went in nice and snug. Don't screw it in yet, as we need to paint before securing this to the cabinet. Once I was sure it could be mounted in the hole correctly, I started the wiring process. I removed the wall plug end from the power strip and wired it to the inlet switch as shown below. I chose to use female spade adapters instead of directly soldering the connections. Note that there is more than one way to wire this switch, but the way shown here will allow the switch to light up when turned on. Painting & T-Molding With the cabinet fully assembled and the glue dry, its time to paint! I have seen people use cans of spray paint for this part, but this MDF really sucks up the paint, and you will go through a lot of cans of spray paint to cover properly. My wife had recently painted all of our interior doors black using a sprayer, so I used the left over paint and her sprayer to take care of my paint job. Would have done it outside, but the temperature has started to drop, so did it in the insulated garage, with some plastic protection applied. I gave the paint a solid 24 hours to dry before I moved the cabinet from the garage, back down to my project room. With everything coated in a nice black finish, next step is to add the T-Molding. I am using 3/4in T-molding to match the width of the side panels. Using a rubber mallet, I slowly worked my way around both sides. When getting to a corner, I nipped a bit of the insert to make it easier to get flush corner bends as shown below. Here we have a picture of everything painted black, and the T-Molding installed. If you have seen any of my other projects, you will know that I am a bit fan of Black/Blue themes. It looks great with the T-Molding installed against the black paint. The T-Molding also served as protection for the edges of the MDF, and adds a bit of grip to the bottom keeping the cabinet from sliding around. With most of the exterior work completed, next step is to install the display. This was tricky due to the built in speakers this monitor has. I'm not planning on using the built-in speakers but they increase the length of the monitor enough that I couldn't mount it without conflicting with the controller board buttons. The solution was to flip/rotate the display 180 degrees as shown below. I used the existing VESA holes on the back of the LCD to mount a piece of pine to the back. Then used additional wood pieces to create a bracket, using glue and brad nails to keep everything secure. And here it is, with the screen installed. As mentioned before, I had to rotate the display 180 degrees to make it work in this cabinet. Doing this on the Raspberry Pi is really easy, and here are the steps: Plug in a USB keyboard and power on the Pi Once EmulationStation has booted, hit F4 to launch the command console Type the following in the command line to edit the Configuration file: sudo nano /boot/config.txt Now add the following to the bottom of the configuration file and save: display_rotate=2 Go ahead and reboot, and the display will show right-side up (on your upside down screen)! If you ever need to revert back, setting display_rotate to 0 or deleting the line will set everything back to normal. Next up is the artwork and installing all of the buttons.
Embrace simplicity and sophistication with our minimalist wooden bracket feet designed for tables, chairs, and sofas. Crafted from durable hardwood, these feet add a touch of minimalist charm to any piece of furniture.
Project Index TableTop Arcade - Raspberry Pi 3 & RetroPie Setup, Part 1 TableTop Arcade - Raspberry Pi 3 & RetroPie Setup, Part 2 TableTop Arcade - Controller & Parts Selection TableTop Arcade - Cabinet Construction & Cutting TableTop Arcade - Assembly, Electrical, and Painting TableTop Arcade - Artwork, Speakers, Marquee TableTop Arcade - Wiring and Wrapping Up TableTop Arcade - Final Build Pics Assembly Now that all of our wood pieces have been cut out and prepped, its time to start putting this thing together! This part was a bit more tricky than I had anticipated, and took a lot of trial and error to get everything to line up perfectly. The idea is to use small wood "batons" to act as supports and stops for the various panels. The picture below shows how they are used to block the various panels into place. The key is to stat with one side first, get everything lined up how you want it, and mark your joints. Then mark those same joints on the other side before you start gluing or nailing anything down. I used painters tape to hold everything together while testing out the fit of my markings just to be sure. After you have marked both sides, and are pleased with the fit, its time to secure everything to the panels. I used a combination of wood glue and brad nails. You can probably get away with just using wood glue, but with an air compressor, putting in a few brad nails for extra support is an easy task. Once all of the batons were secure and in place, its time to begin putting everything together. Starting with the monitor panel, I worked my way around the cabinet, gluing and clamping down the various pieces as can be seen below. If your measurements are good, everything will fit together neatly. Keep things clamped together for at least a few hours before you move the cabinet. I recommend letting it sit with the clamps on overnight. Electrical Wiring With the cabinet assembled and the glue drying, it went ahead and added the modular power inlet. This using a standard computer / monitor power cable, which I then wired directly to a surge protected power strip. Pretty simple to install, just cut a hole to fit, and after a bit of file work, made sure that it went in nice and snug. Don't screw it in yet, as we need to paint before securing this to the cabinet. Once I was sure it could be mounted in the hole correctly, I started the wiring process. I removed the wall plug end from the power strip and wired it to the inlet switch as shown below. I chose to use female spade adapters instead of directly soldering the connections. Note that there is more than one way to wire this switch, but the way shown here will allow the switch to light up when turned on. Painting & T-Molding With the cabinet fully assembled and the glue dry, its time to paint! I have seen people use cans of spray paint for this part, but this MDF really sucks up the paint, and you will go through a lot of cans of spray paint to cover properly. My wife had recently painted all of our interior doors black using a sprayer, so I used the left over paint and her sprayer to take care of my paint job. Would have done it outside, but the temperature has started to drop, so did it in the insulated garage, with some plastic protection applied. I gave the paint a solid 24 hours to dry before I moved the cabinet from the garage, back down to my project room. With everything coated in a nice black finish, next step is to add the T-Molding. I am using 3/4in T-molding to match the width of the side panels. Using a rubber mallet, I slowly worked my way around both sides. When getting to a corner, I nipped a bit of the insert to make it easier to get flush corner bends as shown below. Here we have a picture of everything painted black, and the T-Molding installed. If you have seen any of my other projects, you will know that I am a bit fan of Black/Blue themes. It looks great with the T-Molding installed against the black paint. The T-Molding also served as protection for the edges of the MDF, and adds a bit of grip to the bottom keeping the cabinet from sliding around. With most of the exterior work completed, next step is to install the display. This was tricky due to the built in speakers this monitor has. I'm not planning on using the built-in speakers but they increase the length of the monitor enough that I couldn't mount it without conflicting with the controller board buttons. The solution was to flip/rotate the display 180 degrees as shown below. I used the existing VESA holes on the back of the LCD to mount a piece of pine to the back. Then used additional wood pieces to create a bracket, using glue and brad nails to keep everything secure. And here it is, with the screen installed. As mentioned before, I had to rotate the display 180 degrees to make it work in this cabinet. Doing this on the Raspberry Pi is really easy, and here are the steps: Plug in a USB keyboard and power on the Pi Once EmulationStation has booted, hit F4 to launch the command console Type the following in the command line to edit the Configuration file: sudo nano /boot/config.txt Now add the following to the bottom of the configuration file and save: display_rotate=2 Go ahead and reboot, and the display will show right-side up (on your upside down screen)! If you ever need to revert back, setting display_rotate to 0 or deleting the line will set everything back to normal. Next up is the artwork and installing all of the buttons.
Project Index TableTop Arcade - Raspberry Pi 3 & RetroPie Setup, Part 1 TableTop Arcade - Raspberry Pi 3 & RetroPie Setup, Part 2 TableTop Arcade - Controller & Parts Selection TableTop Arcade - Cabinet Construction & Cutting TableTop Arcade - Assembly, Electrical, and Painting TableTop Arcade - Artwork, Speakers, Marquee TableTop Arcade - Wiring and Wrapping Up TableTop Arcade - Final Build Pics Assembly Now that all of our wood pieces have been cut out and prepped, its time to start putting this thing together! This part was a bit more tricky than I had anticipated, and took a lot of trial and error to get everything to line up perfectly. The idea is to use small wood "batons" to act as supports and stops for the various panels. The picture below shows how they are used to block the various panels into place. The key is to stat with one side first, get everything lined up how you want it, and mark your joints. Then mark those same joints on the other side before you start gluing or nailing anything down. I used painters tape to hold everything together while testing out the fit of my markings just to be sure. After you have marked both sides, and are pleased with the fit, its time to secure everything to the panels. I used a combination of wood glue and brad nails. You can probably get away with just using wood glue, but with an air compressor, putting in a few brad nails for extra support is an easy task. Once all of the batons were secure and in place, its time to begin putting everything together. Starting with the monitor panel, I worked my way around the cabinet, gluing and clamping down the various pieces as can be seen below. If your measurements are good, everything will fit together neatly. Keep things clamped together for at least a few hours before you move the cabinet. I recommend letting it sit with the clamps on overnight. Electrical Wiring With the cabinet assembled and the glue drying, it went ahead and added the modular power inlet. This using a standard computer / monitor power cable, which I then wired directly to a surge protected power strip. Pretty simple to install, just cut a hole to fit, and after a bit of file work, made sure that it went in nice and snug. Don't screw it in yet, as we need to paint before securing this to the cabinet. Once I was sure it could be mounted in the hole correctly, I started the wiring process. I removed the wall plug end from the power strip and wired it to the inlet switch as shown below. I chose to use female spade adapters instead of directly soldering the connections. Note that there is more than one way to wire this switch, but the way shown here will allow the switch to light up when turned on. Painting & T-Molding With the cabinet fully assembled and the glue dry, its time to paint! I have seen people use cans of spray paint for this part, but this MDF really sucks up the paint, and you will go through a lot of cans of spray paint to cover properly. My wife had recently painted all of our interior doors black using a sprayer, so I used the left over paint and her sprayer to take care of my paint job. Would have done it outside, but the temperature has started to drop, so did it in the insulated garage, with some plastic protection applied. I gave the paint a solid 24 hours to dry before I moved the cabinet from the garage, back down to my project room. With everything coated in a nice black finish, next step is to add the T-Molding. I am using 3/4in T-molding to match the width of the side panels. Using a rubber mallet, I slowly worked my way around both sides. When getting to a corner, I nipped a bit of the insert to make it easier to get flush corner bends as shown below. Here we have a picture of everything painted black, and the T-Molding installed. If you have seen any of my other projects, you will know that I am a bit fan of Black/Blue themes. It looks great with the T-Molding installed against the black paint. The T-Molding also served as protection for the edges of the MDF, and adds a bit of grip to the bottom keeping the cabinet from sliding around. With most of the exterior work completed, next step is to install the display. This was tricky due to the built in speakers this monitor has. I'm not planning on using the built-in speakers but they increase the length of the monitor enough that I couldn't mount it without conflicting with the controller board buttons. The solution was to flip/rotate the display 180 degrees as shown below. I used the existing VESA holes on the back of the LCD to mount a piece of pine to the back. Then used additional wood pieces to create a bracket, using glue and brad nails to keep everything secure. And here it is, with the screen installed. As mentioned before, I had to rotate the display 180 degrees to make it work in this cabinet. Doing this on the Raspberry Pi is really easy, and here are the steps: Plug in a USB keyboard and power on the Pi Once EmulationStation has booted, hit F4 to launch the command console Type the following in the command line to edit the Configuration file: sudo nano /boot/config.txt Now add the following to the bottom of the configuration file and save: display_rotate=2 Go ahead and reboot, and the display will show right-side up (on your upside down screen)! If you ever need to revert back, setting display_rotate to 0 or deleting the line will set everything back to normal. Next up is the artwork and installing all of the buttons.
L shaped desks have become increasingly popular in recent years due to their functional design and versatility. These desks are perfect for maximizing workspace in an office or home office setting. Th
https://youtu.be/UIxyoN6Ki5MThe AIO Phone-book does a bunch of incredibly radical things, let's count them down. Firstly, it comes with a built-in smartphone th
(4) blank Ice White 2.5″ x .75″ acrylic flags; This is the 4 pc. flag expansion set which adds on to the Initiative Tracker. *Please note the Initiative Tracker can hold a maximum of 12 flags. -ALL OUR PRODUCTS ARE MANUFACTURED IN THE USA BY OUR SMALL TEAM OF EMPLOYEES. MANUFACTURING TIME IS CURRENTLY 2-3 WEEKS-
Features The height-adjustable electric standing desk has 3 preset buttons to customize your desired heights (tabletop included) and memory it with a couple of presses. The large work surface provides ample room for a variety of office tasks and laptop setups along with important work projects and office supplies. Powerful smooth dual motor lift system with very sturdy steel. Contained an industrial-grade steel frame that can support up to 176 lbs for supporting your office products inside your computer workstation. The desk platform comes packaged in 2 sections for easy assembly by the precise screws and accessories, most users complete the whole installation in less than 30 minutes.
Project Index TableTop Arcade - Raspberry Pi 3 & RetroPie Setup, Part 1 TableTop Arcade - Raspberry Pi 3 & RetroPie Setup, Part 2 TableTop Arcade - Controller & Parts Selection TableTop Arcade - Cabinet Construction & Cutting TableTop Arcade - Assembly, Electrical, and Painting TableTop Arcade - Artwork, Speakers, Marquee TableTop Arcade - Wiring and Wrapping Up TableTop Arcade - Final Build Pics Assembly Now that all of our wood pieces have been cut out and prepped, its time to start putting this thing together! This part was a bit more tricky than I had anticipated, and took a lot of trial and error to get everything to line up perfectly. The idea is to use small wood "batons" to act as supports and stops for the various panels. The picture below shows how they are used to block the various panels into place. The key is to stat with one side first, get everything lined up how you want it, and mark your joints. Then mark those same joints on the other side before you start gluing or nailing anything down. I used painters tape to hold everything together while testing out the fit of my markings just to be sure. After you have marked both sides, and are pleased with the fit, its time to secure everything to the panels. I used a combination of wood glue and brad nails. You can probably get away with just using wood glue, but with an air compressor, putting in a few brad nails for extra support is an easy task. Once all of the batons were secure and in place, its time to begin putting everything together. Starting with the monitor panel, I worked my way around the cabinet, gluing and clamping down the various pieces as can be seen below. If your measurements are good, everything will fit together neatly. Keep things clamped together for at least a few hours before you move the cabinet. I recommend letting it sit with the clamps on overnight. Electrical Wiring With the cabinet assembled and the glue drying, it went ahead and added the modular power inlet. This using a standard computer / monitor power cable, which I then wired directly to a surge protected power strip. Pretty simple to install, just cut a hole to fit, and after a bit of file work, made sure that it went in nice and snug. Don't screw it in yet, as we need to paint before securing this to the cabinet. Once I was sure it could be mounted in the hole correctly, I started the wiring process. I removed the wall plug end from the power strip and wired it to the inlet switch as shown below. I chose to use female spade adapters instead of directly soldering the connections. Note that there is more than one way to wire this switch, but the way shown here will allow the switch to light up when turned on. Painting & T-Molding With the cabinet fully assembled and the glue dry, its time to paint! I have seen people use cans of spray paint for this part, but this MDF really sucks up the paint, and you will go through a lot of cans of spray paint to cover properly. My wife had recently painted all of our interior doors black using a sprayer, so I used the left over paint and her sprayer to take care of my paint job. Would have done it outside, but the temperature has started to drop, so did it in the insulated garage, with some plastic protection applied. I gave the paint a solid 24 hours to dry before I moved the cabinet from the garage, back down to my project room. With everything coated in a nice black finish, next step is to add the T-Molding. I am using 3/4in T-molding to match the width of the side panels. Using a rubber mallet, I slowly worked my way around both sides. When getting to a corner, I nipped a bit of the insert to make it easier to get flush corner bends as shown below. Here we have a picture of everything painted black, and the T-Molding installed. If you have seen any of my other projects, you will know that I am a bit fan of Black/Blue themes. It looks great with the T-Molding installed against the black paint. The T-Molding also served as protection for the edges of the MDF, and adds a bit of grip to the bottom keeping the cabinet from sliding around. With most of the exterior work completed, next step is to install the display. This was tricky due to the built in speakers this monitor has. I'm not planning on using the built-in speakers but they increase the length of the monitor enough that I couldn't mount it without conflicting with the controller board buttons. The solution was to flip/rotate the display 180 degrees as shown below. I used the existing VESA holes on the back of the LCD to mount a piece of pine to the back. Then used additional wood pieces to create a bracket, using glue and brad nails to keep everything secure. And here it is, with the screen installed. As mentioned before, I had to rotate the display 180 degrees to make it work in this cabinet. Doing this on the Raspberry Pi is really easy, and here are the steps: Plug in a USB keyboard and power on the Pi Once EmulationStation has booted, hit F4 to launch the command console Type the following in the command line to edit the Configuration file: sudo nano /boot/config.txt Now add the following to the bottom of the configuration file and save: display_rotate=2 Go ahead and reboot, and the display will show right-side up (on your upside down screen)! If you ever need to revert back, setting display_rotate to 0 or deleting the line will set everything back to normal. Next up is the artwork and installing all of the buttons.
• DEVELOP FINE MOTOR SKILLS – Coloring involves the manipulation of small objects like markers, crayons or colored pencils. These motions of gripping and pressing help build the muscles of the fingers, hands and wrist. Working with lots of little and larger shapes on this coloring activity will help kids build these skills and their writing over time.• SPARK IMAGINATION & PROMOTE SELF-EXPRESSION – Give your little artists wings with this Mother's Day coloring project. Let kids choose their colors and watch their creativity take flight!• IMPROVE FOCUS & CONCENTRATION – How many times did teachers tell you to stay within the lines? Coloring encourages spatial awareness and helps kids focus on boundaries. This color your own project can help to improve kids' concentration.Product Description:This color your own tabletop sign features images of hearts, flowers and a cross and reads, “I am blessed with the best Mom.” This craft allows kids to choose their colors and create a unique Mother’s Day gift. Browse our site to find the perfect craft supplies to add color or other embellishments to these wood signs. © OTCSize: 6 1/2" x 5 1/2"Quantity: 12Material: Wood.
