Use free pokemon crochet patterns to make these wonderful fantasy creatures for kids or to expand your collection of pokémons.
Ok y'all. Here he is. Lugia. I'm sorry that my pics are always crummy, but hey, I'm not a photographer LOL and I'm stuck with really old cameras that don't work unless they feel like it. This doll ain't for the faint of heart. It's better suited to experienced crocheters with a few serious dolls under their belts! He's larger than all the other pokemon I've made in the past and a little more difficult as well. I try to explain everything as well as I can in the pattern instructions, just take it one step at a time and I'll try to help you as much as I can... just post if you have any questions! I've been sick all week, and typing this wasn't easy while feeling so badly, so if you find anything that's wrong, out of place or just plain confusing - that's probably why - and let me know I'll fix it! Ok guys, here goes.... and good luck! :D MATERIALS: WW yarn in white (at least a full skein) medium blue and dark blue G hook Fiberfill Embroidery thread Small pieces of felt in white and black Sewing thread to match colors Yarn Needle Heavy Gauge wire for wings (optional) NOTES: Gauge isn't very important for this project, as long as your choice of yarn, hook and individual tension result in a firm consistent stitch that won't allow the stuffing to show through. Numbers in ( ) at the end of each round or row indicate the total number of stitches for that round or row. Lugia is one of the pokemon whose original 2-D design is not particularly well suited to 'plushie' form. He will be unbalanced. This doll is probably best designed to be suspended with fishing line or other 'invisible' material from a shelf or ceiling as opposed to 'sitting'. You can try weighing down his backside, but the wing structure will still be a nightmare. Some may be able to construct a wire frame for the inside of the wings that will help hold them out, but the sheer weight of the wings is still going to pull heavily on the sides of the body causing it to deform over time. Typically, I join my rounds when making dolls. If you're more comfortable with using continuous rounds, by all means go ahead, however, in this particular doll you may have some issues with the continuous rounds when working the 'wings'. If at all possible, you should probably join your rounds at least when crocheting the wings in this pattern. Be prepared to fiddle and fuss a bit with constructing this doll. As I said, it's not an easy one to make, but it DOES work. This pattern isn't well suited for a toy that will be 'played with'... it's best used for display purposes only. Lugia's HEAD/BODY and TAIL are all crocheted as a single unit. Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6) Rnd 2: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc (8) Rnd 3: sc in next 3 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc, 3 sc in next sc (12) Rnd 4: 3 sc in next sc, sc in each of next 4 sc, 2 sc in each of next 2 sc, sc in each of next 4 sc, 3 sc in last sc (18) Rnd 5: sc in each sc around (18) Rnd 6: 3 sc in next sc, sc in each of next 16 sc, 3 sc in last sc (22) Rnd 7: sc in next 10 sc, 2 sc in each of next 2 sc, sc in last 10 sc (24) Rnd 8-12: sc in each sc around (24) Rnd 13: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (18) Stuff head at this point. Stuff firmly and shape while stuffing (this is your only chance to shape the head, so make sure you're happy with it before going on). Continue stuffing neck, body and tail as you progress through the pattern, just make sure that you have the shape you want as you stuff. The neck needs careful attention, as it needs to be stuffed quite firmly (particularly where it joins the head and the body) in order to keep it from 'lolling' later on. Rnd 14-16: sc in each sc around (18) Rnd 17: sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (15) Rnd 18-26: sc in each sc around (15) Rnd 27: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (18) Rnd 28: sc in each sc around (18) Rnd 29: sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (21) Rnd 30: sc in each sc around (21) Rnd 31: sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24) Rnd 32: sc in each sc around (24) Rnd 33: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (30) Rnd 34: sc in each sc around (30) Rnd 35: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (36) Rnd 36: sc in each sc around (36) Rnd 37: sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (42) Rnd 38: sc in each sc around (42) Rnd 39: sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (48) Rnd 40-50: sc in each sc around (48) Rnd 51: sc in next 6 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (42) Rnd 52: sc in each sc around (42) Rnd 53: sc in next 5 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (36) Rnd 54: sc in each sc around (36) Rnd 55: sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (30) Rnd 56: sc in each sc around (30) Rnd 57: sc in next 13 sc, dec over next 2 sc, sc in next 13 sc, dec over last 2 sc (28) Rnd 58: sc in each sc around (28) Rnd 59: sc in next 12 sc, dec over next 2 sc, sc in next 12 sc, dec over last 2 sc (26) Rnd 60: sc in each sc around (26) Rnd 61: sc in next 11 sc, dec over next 2 sc, sc in next 11 sc, dec over last 2 sc (24) Rnd 62: sc in each sc around (24) Rnd 63: sc in next 10 sc, dec over next 2 sc, sc in next 10 sc, dec over last 2 sc (22) Rnd 64: sc in each sc around (22) Rnd 65: sc in next 9 sc, dec over next 2 sc, sc in next 9 sc, dec over last 2 sc (20) Rnd 66: sc in each sc around (20) Rnd 67: sc in next 8 sc, dec over next 2 sc, sc in next 8 sc, dec over last 2 sc (18) Rnd 68: sc in each sc around (18) Rnd 69: sc in next 7 sc, dec over next 2 sc, sc in next 7 sc, dec over last 2 sc (16) Rnd 70: sc in each sc around (16) Rnd 71: sc in next 6 sc, dec over next 2 sc, sc in next 6 sc, dec over last 2 sc (14) Rnd 72: sc in each sc around (14) Rnd 73: sc in next 5 sc, dec over next 2 sc, sc in next 5 sc, dec over last 2 sc (12) Rnd 74: sc in each sc around (12) Rnd 75: sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc, sc in next 4 sc, dec over last 2 sc (10) Rnd 76: sc in each sc around (10) Rnd 77: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc, sc in next 3 sc, dec over last 2 sc (8) Rnd 78: sc in each sc around (8) Rnd 79: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc, sc in next 2 sc, dec over last 2 sc (6) Rnd 80: sc in each sc around (6) Rnd 81: dec over next 2 sc around (3) HEAD CREST: Rnd 1: 4 sc in magic ring (4) Rnd 2: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc, 2 sc in last sc (6) Rnd 3: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in last sc (8) Rnd 4: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in last sc (10) Rnd 5: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in last sc (12) Rnd 6: sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in last sc (14) Rnd 7: sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in last sc (16) Rnd 8: sc in next 7 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 7 sc, 2 sc in last sc (18) Rnd 9: sc in each sc around (18) F/O and weave in ends. You can add a tiny bit of stuffing here if you wish to create more of a rounded crest for the head, Or you can flatten the crest and pin in place to back of head in position desired (use photos for help with placement) WINGS (make2): (If you wish to add a wire frame to the wings, you will need to plan that frame to be introduced before crocheting the fingers. I recommend a wire frame that will go from wing tip to wing tip, through the 'body' of the doll. Otherwise, you won't have the needed strength to hold up these heavier wings. If you're going to be suspending the doll in the air, then the wire frame can be omitted, because you can use the strings as a way to 'position' your wings as if in flight) Rnd 1: Chain 7. Sc in 2nd chain from hook and each chain across. Turn work and working down the 'unused' side of the foundation chain, sc in the same chain as the last sc of other side, and each remaining chain across. Join to first sc with slip stitch. (12 sc) Rnd 2-6: sc in each sc around (12) Rnd 7: sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (14) Rnd 8: sc in each sc around (14) Rnd 9: sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (16) Rnd 10: sc in each sc around (16) Rnd 11: sc in next 7 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (18) Rnd 12: sc in each sc around (18) Rnd 13: sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (21) Rnd 14: sc in each sc around (21) Rnd 15: sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24) Rnd 16: sc in each sc around (24) Rnd 17: sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (28) Rnd 18: sc in each sc around (28) Rnd 19: sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (32) Rnd 20: sc in each sc around (32) Rnd 21: sc in next 7 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (36) Rnd 22: sc in each sc around (36) Rnd 23: sc in next 8 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (40) Rnd 24-26: sc in each sc around (40) Do not fasten off. Begin first 'finger': Flatten wing 'end' – matching up your sc stitches. You will be working through only one 'side' at a time, but using both sides for each finger. Rnd 1: sc in next 5 sc. Turn work so that other side is now facing you, sc in next 5 sc of the other side of the wing (what was the last 5 sc of the previous round) and join with slip stitch to first sc of 'finger' (10 sc) Rnd 2-8: sc in each sc around, joining each round with slip stitch in first sc around (10) Flatten end of 'finger'. Working through all layers, 4 sc across, slip stitch in last sc. F/O. Weave in ends. Remaining Fingers: Attach yarn to first stitch immediately to 'left' of finger just completed. Sc in same stitch as joining and complete same as rounds 1-8 of first finger. For 'thumb'. Rnd 1: Chain 6. Sc in second chain from hook and each chain across, turn and working down other side of foundation, sc in each chain across. Sl St to first sc of round (10) Rnd 2-10: sc in each sc around (10) Flatten end of thumb. Working through all layers, 4 sc across, slip stitch in last sc. F/O. Weave in ends. Pin and sew thumb to wing on underside, just below and between first and second finger. Wings were not stuffed. Wings are attached to side of body near base of neck as shown. Just pin for now. LEGS (make 2): Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6) Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12) Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (18) Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24) Rnd 5: sc in each sc around (24) Rnd 6: sc in next 7 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (27) Rnd 7-9: sc in each sc around (27) Rnd 10: sc in next 7 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (24) Rnd 11: sc in next 6 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (21) Rnd 12: sc in next 5 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (18) Rnd 13: sc in next sc, dec over next 2 sc around (12) Rnd 14: sc in each sc around (12) Stuff leg moderately. Leave opening. F/O weave in ends. FOOT (make 2): Rnd 1: 8 sc in magic ring (8) Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (16) Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24) Rnd 4: sc in each sc around (24) Rnd 5: sc in next 6 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (21) Rnd 6: sc in next 5 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (18) Rnd 7: sc in each sc around (18) Rnd 8: sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (15) Rnd 9: sc in each sc around (15) Rnd 10: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (12) Rnd 11-12: sc in each sc around (12) Rnd 13: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (9) Stuff foot moderately, but not too much. Just enough to allow it to hold the shape you desire. Using white thread, create the 'toes' by taking three large whipstitches over the 'ends' of the feet. Go back and do the same with black thread to create the 'toes'. Sew the foot to end of leg as shown. BELLY DECORATION: Using medium blue: Rnd 1: 8 sc in magic ring (8) Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (16) Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24) Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (32) Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (40) Rnd 6: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (48) Begin points: Row 1: Sc in next 8 sc, turn (8) Row 2: dec over first 2 sc, sc across to last 2 sc, dec over last 2 sc of row, turn (6) Row 3: dec over first 2 sc, sc across to last 2 sc, dec over last 2 sc of row, turn (4) Row 4: dec over first 2 sc, dec over last 2 sc, turn (2) Row 5: dec over 2 sc (1) F/O. Weave in end. Attach yarn to first stitch to immediate left of point just made, sc in same stitch as joining and complete second point same as for first: Attach yarn to any stitch along side of plate. Sc in same stitch as joining, and evenly around outside – using three sc in the tip of each 'point'. Join with sl st to top of first sc made. F/O and weave in ends. Pin to body over chest/stomach area. PLATES ALONG BACK (make 10): Using darker blue: Chain 7. Sc in second chain from hook and each chain across (6) Rows 2&3: sc in each sc across (6) F/O and weave in ends. SPIKES ON TAIL: Using darker blue: Rnd 1: 3 sc in magic ring (3) Rnd 2: sc in first 2 sc, 2 sc in last sc (4) Rnd 3: sc in first 3 sc, 2 sc in last sc (5) Rnd 4: sc in first 4 sc, 2 sc in last sc (6) Rnd 5: sc in first 5 sc, 2 sc in last sc (7) Rnd 6: sc in each sc around (7) F/O and stuff very lightly. Pin to tail as shown. EYE FEATHER (make 2): Chain 11. Slip stitch in second chain from hook, sc in next 2 chs, hdc in next 2 chs, dc in next 2 chs, hdc in next ch, sc in next ch, slip stitch in last chain. Turn work and working back up the other side of the foundation chain: slip stitch in same ch as last slip stitch, sc in next, hdc in next, dc in next 2, hdc in next 2, sc in next 2, slip stitch in last. F/O and weave in ends. Pin to head as shown in photos. ASSEMBLY: All parts need to be pinned to the doll's body before sewing any on. With a doll this large, it's really important you get everything just the way you want it :D Figuring out the part placement isn't very hard (especially after what you've been through already LOL), just refer to the photos and get everything the way you want ! Then you can sew it all down. Eyes are cut from pieces of felt in the shapes shown. Mouth is embroidered on last. Lugia and Pokemon are copyright of Nintendo. This pattern is an original pattern and is © by Linda Potts (September 2010). Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint it on your site. You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern.
These 40 Crochet Pokémon Patterns will encourage your crochet hook! Crochet these Pokémon characters that will please you, your kids, and your friends!
VER PATRÓN TRADUCCION Patrones POKEMON amigurumi POR: cdbvulpix.blogspot Publicado en: Marzo 2020 MENÚ PÁGI...
Bulbasaur Amigurumi Crochet Doll: Handcrafted, Adorable Pokémon Character, Perfect for Fans & Gifts!
These 40 Crochet Pokémon Patterns will encourage your crochet hook! Crochet these Pokémon characters that will please you, your kids, and your friends!
I feel like everything is starting to come back around again when my kids ask to watch show I have nostalgia about including Pokemon. I had so many Pokemon crochet patterns that I split this post into two parts. Scroll to the bottom to get the second post with Pokemon characters from M to Z. Absol from Crochetemall Aipom plushie crochet pattern from Wolf Dreamer Alola Meowth Amigurumi Pokemon from Catherine Johansson Alolan Exeggutor Altaria Azumarill Azumarill amigurumi crochet pattern from Loopy Cathrine Bayleef Bulbasaur from 53 Stitches Get this free Bulbasour pattern from Evelyn Pham Bulbasaur succulent holder from Knotbadami Bunnelby Crochet pattern from Kats Creations Butterfree Amigurumi crochet pattern from Ami Amour Nurse Chancey from ahareaffair Charizard from Knotbadami Charizard Mega Charizard Y by miahandcrafter Charmander Charmander Amigurumi Crochet pattern from Strings Away Charmander from Chrocetnanigans Cherrim Amigurim Pattern Cherubi Pokemon amigurumi crochet pattern from Loopy Catherine Chespin Amigurumi Chibi Gardevoir from Cindy Tran Get this Clefiary pattern from Chochetemall Cyndaquil Amigurumi crochet pattern from Strings Away Dedenne from crochetnanigans Delphox Ditto crochet pattern from Crochet Fanatic Drifloon Dustox Amigurumi crochet pattern from Frog & Fasten Electrode and Voltorb Amigurim crochet pattern from LoopyCatherine Get this Eevee Amigurumi crochet pattern free from Amiamour Eevee from 53stitches Another version of Eevee Electrode crochet pattern from Loopy Catherine Espeon Get this Espeon crochet pattern from Crochetemall Fennekin Pokemon Amigurumi Pattern from Strings Away Flareon from 53Stitches Froakie crochet pattern from Kats Creations Get this Furret pattern from Chrochetemall Galarian Corsola pattern from Frog & Fasten Galarian Slowpoke crochet pattern from Cindy Tran Glaceon from Evelyn Pham Glaceon Gliscor Gloom Amigurumi Haunter Amigurumi Pattern from Strings Away Get a free Hoppip pattern from Sabrina Sommers Houndoom crochet pattern Jigglypuff by Knotbadami Jigglypuff hat from Crochet with Melanie Jirachi crochet pattern from Danielle Adams Baby Jolteon Jolteon from 53Stitches Jolteon Amigurumi Pattern from Strings Away Koffing Koffing Amigurumi crochet pattern from Loopy Cathrine Baby Leafeon from Evelyn Pham Get Leafeon from Chrocetemall Leafeon Amigurumi from 53 Stitches Litten Litwick Lotad crochet pattern free download from Ravelry Luvdisc amigurumi pokemon crochet pattern from Loopy Catherine Pokemon crochet book with 20 cute patterns on Amazon And you can find Part Two of the free Pokemon crochet patterns here And you can find hundreds more free crochet patterns here
Wooper is made by request. Funny how none of my girls ever mentioned wooper at all ... but as soon as he was done, the girls were in lov...
Hi, my dear amigurumi lovers! :) It’s time for a new pattern! :D This time I’ve been working on a gift for my brother in law, who loves pokemon and asked me if I could do a Snorlax for …
Pokémon So far I’ve made 23 pokémon patterns, below you’ll find all of them. Click on your favorite amigurumi to get more info about the pattern. Aipom Add to Cart Aipom Materials Stitc…
These 40 Crochet Pokémon Patterns will encourage your crochet hook! Crochet these Pokémon characters that will please you, your kids, and your friends!
I had to do Meowth eventually. I put it off forever because I have the worst problems with mouths... and I have at least a dozen 'Meowth mouths' on my worktable that didn't make the cut. I'm still not very happy with that one, but maybe one of you talented crafters will be able to make a better one :D. I adore Meowth because he's scrappy and intelligent and just generally fun to watch in action. As always, if you find any problems with the pattern, please let me know, I'll fix it as soon as I can and if you have any questions just post 'em :) MATERIALS: WW yarn buff, medium brown, dark brown and small amount of gold G Hook Fiberfill White, black and red felt scraps NOTES: Gauge isn't really important, just make sure that your yarn choice and hook choice result in a fairly tight stitch so that stuffing won't show through. Numbers at the end of each rnd/row in ( ) are the total number of stitches that should be in each round or row. Read through the entire pattern before beginning to get familiar with how the pattern comes together. HEAD: using buff: Rnd 1: 7 sc in magic ring (7) Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (14) Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (21) Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (28) Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (35) Rnd 6: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (42) Rnd 7: sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (49) Rnd 8: sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (56) Rnd 9-15: sc in each sc around (56) Rnd 16: sc in next 6 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (49) Rnd 17: sc in next 5 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (42) Rnd 18: sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (35) Rnd 19: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (28) Begin stuffing here, and continue to stuff as you go. Stuff firmly shaping the head as you stuff. Rnd 20: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (21) Rnd 21: sc in next sc, dec over next 2 sc around (14) Rnd 22: dec over next 2 sc around (7) F/O leaving a tail and then using chopstick or back of crochet hook, finish adding any stuffing you need and shape. Weave in the tail and pull to close. BODY: using buff: Rnd 1: 7 sc in magic ring (7) Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (14) Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (21) Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (28) Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (35) Rnd 6: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (42) Rnd 7-18: sc in each sc around (42) Rnd 19: sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (35) Begin stuffing here, stuff firmly while shaping. Continue stuffng as you go. Rnd 20: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (28) Rnd 21: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (21) Rnd 22: sc in next sc, dec over next 2 sc around (14) F/O and add any stuffing needed to finish out the shaping. ARMS: using buff: make 2 Rnd 1: 9 sc in magic ring (9) Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (18) Rnd 3-5: sc in each sc around (18) Rnd 6: dec over next 2 sc around (9) Rnd 7-16: sc in each sc around (9) F/O, stuff arms to wrist, leave 'paws' unstuffed. Using dark brown yarn and yarn needle, make 'claws' (two on each paw) see photos to help with placement. FEET: Using medium brown: (make 2) Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6) Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12) Rnd 3: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (15) Rnd 4-10: sc in each sc around (change to buff yarn in last stitch of round 10) (15) Rnd 11-14: sc in each sc around (15) Begin stuffing here. Stuff moderately firm. Continue to stuff as you go. Rnd 15: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (12) Rnd 16: dec over next 2 sc around (6) F/O leaving tail. Add any stuffing needed to finish the shaping. Don't overstuff. Weave tail through last round and pull to close. LEGS: Using buff: (make 2) Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6) Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12) Rnd 3: working in Back Loops Only for this round, sc in each sc around (12) Rnd 4-7: sc in each sc around (12) F/O and stuff leg moderately firmly. Don't overstuff. Sew the 'closed' end of the leg to the top of the foot at the back (see photos for help with placement) Using dark brown yarn and yarn needle, make 'claws' (two on each foot) see photos for help. EARS: Using Dark Brown: (make 2) Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6) Rnd 2: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (9) Rnd 3: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (12) Rnd 4: sc in each sc around (12) Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (15) Rnd 6: sc in each sc around (15) Rnd 7: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (18) Rnd 8-10: sc in each sc around (18) F/O. Do not stuff, flatten ear. Ear INSET: Using med brown: (make 2) Row 1: Ch 6, sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across (5) Row 2: sc in each sc across (5) Row 3: sc in first 3 sc, dec over last 2 sc (4) Row 4: sc in first 2 sc, dec over last 2 sc (3) Row 5: sc in first sc, dec over last 2 sc (2) Row 6: dec over 2 sc (1) F/O. Weave in ends. Position and sew the 'inset' to the center bottom of the ear (see photo for placement) TAIL: Using buff: Rnd 1: 9 sc in magic ring (9) Rnd 2: working in Back Loops Only for this round, sc in each sc around (9) Rnd 3-9: sc in each sc around (9) Rnd 10: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (12) Begin stuffing here if you haven't already. Stuff tail moderately firmly. Don't overstuff. Rnd 11: sc in each sc around, change to medium brown in last stitch of round (12) Rnd 13: sc in each sc around (12) Rnd 14: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (15) Rnd 15: sc in each sc around (15) Rnd 16: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (12) Rnd 17: dec over next 2 sc around (6) F/O leaving tail. Finish adding stuffing if needed to complete shape. Don't stuff the end too firmly. Weave tail through final round and pull to close, using tail, curl the end around on itself (see photos) and secure. Weave in ends. CHARM: using gold color yarn: Rnd 1: 4 sc in magic ring (4) Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (8) Rnd 3-9: sc in each sc around (8) Rnd 10: dec over next 2 sc around (4) F/O, do not stuff. Flatten charm. Using dark brown thread or embroidery floss, create lines every other row of the charm (see photo). Those lines are purely optional, but the charm on Meowth has them, so I added them. WHISKERS: Using buff: Make 2 of the following (these go at the top of the head between his ears) Row1: Ch 13, slip stitch in 2nd ch from hook and next 2 chs. Sc in next 6 chs, HDC in last 3 chs. F/O Make 4 of the following: Row 1: Ch 11, slip stitch in 2nd ch from hook and next 2 chs. Sc in next 5 chs, HDC in last 2 chs. F/O ASSEMBLY: I recommend pinning parts together before you sew, to make sure you have them in the placement you want before making it permanent. Sew head to neck of body. Sew arms to sides of body, making sure that the paws are both facing the right way. Sew legs to bottom of body, either in sitting or standing positions. Sew ears to the top of the head as shown, charm goes between his ears so that it stands up. Sew the 'whiskers' to the head... the two longer whiskers go on top of the head between the ears, the other four are sewn to the sides of the head as shown. Using paper, cut out facial features before using felt ... it will save you ALOT of time. Pin the facial features on before sewing, to make sure you have the right sizes and placements. The mouth is outlined with dark brown yarn as shown. Don't forget to cut out and sew on his little fangs... he's just not meowth without the hardware! I positioned his paws up by his face... my girls wanted him that way, and I like it... he looks kind of like he's about to pounce on you. Any way you make him, Meowth is just adorable :) MEOWTH and POKEMON are copyright Nintendo. This pattern is an original pattern by Linda Potts (September 2009). Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint it on your site. You may keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern.
I was looking around the net for a decent Abra pattern the other day, Abra being among my absolute favourite Pokémon designs. Turns out, I couldn't find a single decent one. So, I decided that maybe it was time to start making my own patterns. It turned out pretty sweet, so I decided to share it to whoever wants to have it. If anyone happens to stumble upon this, I do hope you enjoy it. This pattern is not for beginners, or at least not for people who can't follow my thought pattern, due to the multitude of parts and rather complex feet pattern. Medium to advanced skill level is recommended. This pattern uses continuous rounds, so no closing your rounds! ;P Personally, I'm using Miniacryl acrylic yarn and a 2 mm hook (That a B for Americans and a number 14 hook in the UK) for the little one, but as long as your yarn type and thickness is consistent, any yarn fibre or thickness should be fine, as long as you use the corresponding hook size. The hook should have approximately the same thickness as your yarn. Cotton yarn tends to be the easiest to handle, but yields a more stale, less plushy-like result. I use plastic pellets as filling where additional weight is desired, here in the hands, feet and lower body, and regular polyester fibre fill for the rest. Stuff firmly unless otherwise instructed. The pattern itself will give most of the shape, so no need to be too meticulous in your filling methods. Just fill it firmly and evenly. The yarn colours required for this pattern are: Yellow Beige/lighter yellow Brown The beige yarn is optional. In my prototype (that's the little one), I used the normal yellow on the entire head, and that turned out pretty well too. For my own, alternative colour-palette, blue, really large Abra that I use for the tutorial pictures (because of the size. It makes the details clearer), I used a 6.00 mm hook and very thick acrylic yarn of colours Petrol-blue and Black. The cues for this alternate palette will be in parentheses. Why did I use blue and black? Well... there was this new yarn I found that looked just awesome and I just got an urge to make an amigurumi of it because large 'gurumis are awesome, but the colour options were very limited, so... I just picked the best-looking ones. How much yarn did it take? Fifteen entire balls. My wallet weeps... The regular one only took one and a half ball. ;) Stitches used in this pattern: Single crochet Slip stitch Increase Decrease Half double crochet and a few custom-stitches I will have brief tutorials for as they appear. Head (make 1, start with beige(black) yarn) 1: 8 sc in magic ring (8) 2: [sc,inc] x4 (12) 3: sc around (12) (The nose can get a little pointy. If you want it to be less so, skip this round) 4: [2 sc, inc] x4, (16) switch to yellow(blue) 5: 7sc, inc3*, 3sc, inc, 3sc, inc3 (21) Gonna use this inc3 a lot here. This does not mean three increases, but rather three sc in one hoop, instead of the normal two. 6: 8sc, inc3, 5sc, inc, 4sc, inc3, sc (26) 7: 9sc, inc3, 6sc, inc, 6sc, inc3, 2sc (31) 8: 10sc, inc3, 8sc, inc, 7sc, inc3, 3sc (36) 9: 11sc, inc3, 9sc, inc, 9sc, inc3, 4sc (41) 10: 12sc, inc3, 22sc, inc3, 5sc (45) 11-13: sc around (45) 14: 13sc, dec, 23sc, dec,5sc (43) 15: 25sc, dec, 16sc (42) 16: 13sc, dec, 21sc, dec, 4sc (40) 17: 13sc, dec, 9sc, dec, 9sc, dec, 3sc (37) 18: 12sc, dec, 8sc, dec, 8sc, dec, 3sc (34) 19: 4sc, dec, 5sc, dec, [8sc, dec]x2, sc (30) 20: 4sc, dec, 5sc, dec, [6sc, dec]x2, sc (26) 21: [4sc, dec]x2, [5sc, dec]x2 (22) 22: 2sc, dec, sc, dec, [2sc, dec] x2, sc, dec, 2sc, dec (16) 23: dec around (8) 24: 3dec Fasten off. Tighten. Ear (make 2 in yellow(black) yarn) 1: 4 sc in Magic Ring (4) 2: inc around (8) 3: [sc, inc] x4 (12) 4: [2 sc, inc] x4 (16) 5: [3 sc, inc] x4 (20) 6: [4 sc, inc] x4 (24) 7: [5 sc, inc] x4 (28) 8: [6 sc, inc] x4 (32) 9: sc around (32) Fasten off Body (make 1, start with yellow(blue) yarn) 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6) 2: inc around (12) 3: [sc, inc] x6 (18) 4: [2 sc, inc] x6 (24) 5: [3 sc, inc] x6 (30) 6: [4 sc, inc] x6 (36) 7-14: sc around (36) 15: [10 sc, dec] x3 (33) 16: sc, ch, turn, 20 sc switch to brown(black), ch, turn. 17: 20sc, hdc, 11sc, hdc(33) * 18-19: sc around (33) 20: [dec, 9sc] x3 (30) 21: [dec, 8sc] x3 (27) 22: [dec, 7sc] x3 (24) 23: 15sc, turn 24: 15sc, turn 25: 3ss, 9sc, 3ss 26: hdc, 7sc, hdc, 15sc (24) fasten off As you may have noticed, this pattern goes back and forth a bit during rounds 16 and 17, making a bit of a stair-like section. This will not be the only time this technique is used in this pattern, just the first. It should look something like this And the gap is smoothed out afterwards with a half-double crochet like this Which should then look something like this Arm (make 2 in yellow yarn(start with black)) 1: 6 sc in Magic ring (6) 2: inc around (12) 3: [sc, inc] x6 (18) 4: [2 sc, inc] x6 (24) 5: [7 sc, inc, 3 sc, inc] x2 (28) 6-7: sc around (28) 8: 10 sc, dec, 12 sc, dec, 2 sc (26) 9: sc around (26) 10: 9 sc, dec, 11 sc, dec, 2 sc (24) 11: sc around (24) 12: 9 sc, dec, 10 sc, dec, 1sc (22) 13: sc around (22) 14: [9 sc, dec] x2 (20) 15: sc around (20) 16: [inc, 9 sc] x2 (22) 17: sc around (22) 18: [inc, 10 sc]x2 (24) 19: sc around (24) 20: [2 sc, dec] x6 in back loops only (18) Start stuffing. If you're using plastic pellets, fill it up to about round 13-15, then fill the rest of the hand with fibre fill. The hand should be stuffed firmly. The upper arm less so, especially around the elbow, to allow for easier movement. (change to blue) 21: [sc, dec] x6 (12) 22: sc around in front loops only (12) 23-31: sc around (12) fasten off Finger (make 6 in yellow(black) yarn) 1: 4sc in magic ring (4) 2: inc, 3sc (5) 3: inc, 4sc (6) 4: inc, 5sc (7) 5: inc, 6sc (8) 6: inc, 7sc (9) 7: sc around (9) NOTE: I made the side fingers shorter on the little one, stopping after round 6, thus making 4 short and 2 long. Making them all of the same length looks fine too. It's a matter of preference. Shoulder pad (make 2 in brown(black) yarn) 1: 20 ch, turn, 19 sc, ch, turn (19) 2: 19 sc, ch, turn (19) 3: [5sc, dec]x2, 5sc (17) 4: 5 sc, dec, 3 sc, dec, 5 sc (15) 5: 4 sc, dec, 3 sc, dec, 4 sc (13) 6: [sc, dec]x4, sc (9) 7: 2 dec, sc, 2 dec (5) fasten off, tighten the last row together by sewing the end tail back and forth between the stitches. Tail (make one, start with yellow(blue) yarn) 1: 4sc in magic ring (4) 2: inc, 3sc (5) 3: sc, inc, 3sc (6) 4: 2sc, inc, 3sc (7) 5: 3sc, inc, 3sc (8) 6: 3sc, inc, 4sc (9) 7: 4sc, inc, 4sc (10) 8: 5sc, inc, 4sc (11) 9: 6sc, inc, 4sc (12) 10: 7sc, inc, 4sc (13) 11: 7sc, inc, 5sc (14) switch to brown(black) 12: 8sc, inc, 5sc (15) 13: 9sc, inc, 5sc (16) switch to yellow(blue) 14-15: sc, dec, 7sc, inc, 5sc (16) 16: 9sc, inc, 6sc (17) 17-18: sc, dec, 7sc, inc, 6sc (17) 19: 10sc, inc, 6sc (18) 20-21: sc, dec, 8sc, inc, 6sc (18) 22: 10sc, inc, 7sc (19) 23-24: sc, dec, 8sc, inc, 7sc (19) 25: 11sc, inc, 7sc (20) 26-27: sc, dec, 9sc, inc, 7sc (20) 28: 11sc, inc, 8sc (21) 29-30: sc, dec, 9sc, inc, 8sc (21) 31: 12sc, inc, 8sc (22) 32-33: sc, dec, 10sc, inc, 8sc (22) 34: 12sc, inc, 9sc (23) 35-36: sc, dec, 10sc, inc, 9sc (23) 37: 13sc, inc, 9sc (24) 38-39: sc, dec, 11sc, inc, 9sc (24) Here starts another stairs-y bit. This is so that the angle of the tail won't look all messed up when it's sewn onto the body. 40: 11sc, turn 41: 18sc, turn 42: 15sc, turn 43: 12sc, turn 44: 9sc, turn 45: 6sc Fasten off Yes, the tail should be twisting gently. That is intentional. It looks more alive that way. :) Foot (make 2 in yellow(black) yarn) (Lots of visuals here. Hopefully, it'll help, rather than confuse...) 1: 5sc in magic ring (5) 2: inc, 4sc (6) 3: sc, inc, 4sc (7) 4: 2sc, inc, 4sc (8) 5: 3sc, inc, 4sc (9) 6: 4sc, inc, 4sc (10) 7: 4sc, inc, 5sc (11) 8-9: 4sc, 3ss, 4sc (11) 10a: 4sc, fasten off repeat rounds 1 through 9. 10b: 8sc, ch3, resume where you fastened off at round 10a, 11sc, 3hdc, sc3 (28) This bit is a bit tricky if you haven't done something similar before, so I shall provide some visuals. The toes should be joined together like this about mid-round: and by the end of the round you should have a proper bridge, like this: Then you can continue on as normal. ;) (I know, the lighting in my room is a bit weird...) WARNING: It is VERY easy to miss a stitch or two during this maneuver, so be sure to double-check your stitch count! 11-13: sc around (28) 14: 2sc, dec, 12sc, dec,10sc (26) 15: sc around (26) 16: 2sc, dec, 11sc, dec, 9sc (24) 17: sc around (24) 18: 2sc, dec, 10sc, dec, 8sc (22) 19: sc, dec, 9sc, dec, 8sc (20) 20: sc, dec, 8sc, dec, 7sc (18) 21: sc, dec, 7sc, dec, 6sc (16) Here, we begin another stairs-y bit. 22: 3sc, ch, turn 23: 10sc, ch, turn 24: 8sc, ch, turn 25: 6sc, ch, turn Which should look something like this: Which is smoothed out in the following row: 26: 2sc, dec, 2sc, hdc, sc, hdc, sc, dec, sc, hdc (14) Which should look something like this It's a heel! ;) Now, continue on as normal 27: 2sc, dec, 5sc, dec, 3sc (12) 28: sc, dec, 4sc, dec, 3sc (10) 29: sc, dec, 3sc, dec, 2sc (8) 30: sc, dec, 2sc, dec, sc (6) 31: sc around. Fasten off. Tighten. Leg(make 2 in yellow(start with black) yarn) (starting at the ankle. a loop-y-loop) 1: 15ch, 15sc, starting at the first ch. (15) 2: inc, 14sc (16) 3: sc, inc, 14sc (17) 4: 2sc, inc, 14sc (18) 5: 3sc, inc, 14sc (19) 6: 3sc, inc, 15sc (20) 7: 4sc, inc, 15sc (21) 8: 5sc, inc, 15sc (22) 9: 3sc, inc, 3sc, inc, 14sc (24) 10: 6sc, inc, 17sc (25) 11: 7sc, inc, 17sc (26) 12-15: sc around (26) 16: 8sc, inc3*, 16sc (28) Inc3 again here. remember, not three incs, but rather three sc in one hoop. Important! Round 16 ends one stitch early. Move the marker to this new spot 17: [dec, 2sc]x2, sharpcluster*, [2sc, dc]x2, 2sc, dec3*, 2sc, all in back loops only (18) (switch to blue) First, the dec3-stitch is like the inc3 in reverse. Just pick up three hoops rather than the normal two. Now the so-called sharpcluster is a custom maneuver of mine. Hopefully, I can explain it properly with, again, some visuals. Start with picking up two hoops, as if you were to make a decrease Now, loop the yarn once around the hook, as if you were about to make a double-crochet And keep going with the double-crochet until you're at this point here: Now, start making another decrease. it should look like this: Lotsa hoops. Now, bring the thread through ALL of those hoops at once. Poof. Done. Make sure to tighten the yarn firmly. After a few single stitches, it should come together into something like this I hope that got across well enough ;) Now, to continue with this leg 18: [sc, dec]x6 (12) (switch to blue) 19: sc around, front loops only (12) 20-25: sc around (12) 26: [inc, 5sc]x2 (14) 27: sc, inc, 6sc, inc, 5sc (16) 28-30: sc around (16) 31: 2sc, dec, 6sc, dec, 4sc (14) 32: 2sc, dec, 5sc, dec, 3sc (12) 33: 6dec fasten off. Now, to assemble this little critter. Here we have all of the pieces, laid down before us. Start with assembling the arms and legs. First sew the feet to the legs, like this Make sure that the ankle connects right at the bend, like this, otherwise the foot will look awkward Next, sew the fingers onto the hands, like this. Use pins to temporarily position them first, to really get the positioning right. The way I do it, Abra gets abit of a palm, so from the side, it looks like this Next, sew the tail to the body. It should be at about this angle, so that Abra will be leaning back a bit. Now, I like to have all the large bits assembled first, to better get a picture of the whole, sooner. So, next you should sew the ears to the head. Using pins is STRONGLY recommended. Embroidering the eyes now is also recommended. Less bits getting in the way, that way. Now that all of the big bits are assembled, start from the bottom and work your way up. Less things getting in the way, that way. So, start with the legs, like this. Now, you may notice a slight issue with the body here on the side Let's zoom in There. Big gap. Not pretty, is it? This is VERY hard to avoid. I recommend sewing this shut when sewing on either the arms or the shoulderpads. Either way, next comes the arms. Like that. Again, use pins for better positioning. Now, I did forget to take any pics of applying the shoulder pads. Sorry about that. They should go right where arm meets body. Sew them onto the body, not the arm. Make sure they don't get too high up; leave a small gap between them and the head, else Abra will end up looking hunched and tense. Finally, just apply the head, and your abra is done! So! That was my first ever crochet pattern. Hopefully, that was coherent enough to understand. If this confuses you at all, please do not hesitate to ask. I will do my best to explain it better. ;) Next up: Manaphy It's a simpler one, promise.
Insanely detailed handmade crocheted plush Pokémon toys. The craftsmanship in these is mind boggling and impressive enough to make anyone a Pokémon fan.
Gehaakte Pokémon: Pokémon go, maar dan anders. Pokémon komen echt tot leven. In dit blog staat hoe je Pokémon tot leven kan brengen door ze te haken.
#384 RAYQUAZA This is the next request by my Etsy customer. I must say that this request did not surprise me since he had already ord...
My little nephew keeps asking me to crochet Pokémons for him. He has a definite set of favorites and he takes them everywhere he goes. His Snorlax and Poliwhirl have traveled with him all over Europe and are never far from his side. This makes me so proud and happy! And it made me curious about
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I am always updating my posts and recently updated my list of free Pokemon crochet patterns so here is part two; Pokemon characters from M...
Here’s one bad ass pokémon. I never really liked him in the series because he was mean to ash :p So, what do you think of him? x
A directory of free Amigurumi crochet patterns
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In dieser Anleitung zeige ich dir, wie du einen Pokémon Pokéball häkeln und damit bei jedem Pokémon Fan richtig punkten kannst. Pokémon heißen beliebte
sleutelhanger-pokemon, Gratis-pokemon-haakpatronen, Gratis-pokemon-sleutelhanger, poke-ball
COMPLETED: 52 GOAL: 649 When you begin to assemble the face, you may want to get the head spot on first and then glue the eyes on. You can then sew the eyebrows slightly over the eyes. Materials: crochet hook, burnt orange, gold, cornflower yellow and black yarn, black and white felt Body: With burnt orange, 6 sc in magic circle (6) Row 1: 2 sc in each sc around (12) Row 2: sc next sc, 2 sc next sc, around (18) Row 3: sc next 2 sc. 2 sc next sc, around (24) Row 4: sc next 3 sc, 2 sc next sc, around (30) Row 5: sc next 4 sc, 2 sc next sc, around (36) Row 6: sc next 5 sc, 2 sc next sc, around (42) Row 7: sc next 6 sc, 2 sc next sc, around (48) Row 8: sc next 7 sc, 2 sc next sc, around (54) Row 9: sc next 8 sc, 2 sc next sc, around (60) Row 10-19: sc in each sc around (60) Row 20: sc next 8 sc, decrease over next 2 sc, around (54) Row 21: sc next 7 sc, decrease over next 2 sc, around (48) Row 22: sc next 6 sc, decrease over next 2 sc, around (42) Row 23: sc next 5 sc, decrease over next 2 sc, around (36) Begin stuffing. Row 24: sc next 4 sc, decrease over next 2 sc, around (30) Row 25: sc next 3 sc, decrease over next 2 sc, around (24) Row 26: sc next 2 sc, decrease over next 2 sc, around (18) Row 27: sc next sc, decrease over next 2 sc, around (12) Row 28: decrease over next 2 sc, around (6) FO Weave tail thru loops and pull closed. Arms: (make 2) With burnt orange, ch 6, join Row 1: sc in each ch around (6) Row 2: sc in each sc around (6) Row 3: sc next sc, decrease over next 2 sc, around (4) Row 4: sc in each sc around (4) FO Stuff lightly. Flatten end (row 4) and sew closed. Legs: (make 2) With burnt orange, 6 sc in magic circle (6) Row 1: sc in each sc around (6) Row 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12) Row 3: sc in each sc around (12) Row 4: sc next 6 sc, turn (leave remaining sc unworked) (6) Row 5: sc in each sc a cross (6) Row 6: skip 1st sc, sc next 3 sc, decrease over last 2 sc, turn (4) Row 7: skip 1st sc, sc next sc, decrease over last 2 sc (2) FO Stuff and sew to body. The flap should be on the outside. Feet and Hands: (make 4) With gold, 6 sc in magic circle, *ch 3, sc 2nd ch from hook and next ch, sl st next sc in magic circle* repeat 3 times FO Sew to ends of arms (palm open) and sew to feet (flat). Belly spots: (make 3) With yellow. Ch 5, turn, sc in 2nd ch from hook, continuing down ch, hdc, dc, sc, sc, sc, at end of chain ch 1, continuing in back loops, sc, dc, hdc, sc, sc, sc, at end ch 1 and join FO Sew to front. Tail: With burnt orange, ch 10, join Row 1: sc in each ch around (10) Row 2: sc next 3 sc, decrease over next 2 sc, around (8) Row 3: sc next 2 sc, decrease over next 2 sc, around (6) Row 4: sc next sc, decrease over next 2 sc, around (2) FO Stuff and sew to lower back. Back stripe: With yellow, ch 15, turn, sc 2nd ch from hook, continuing down chain, sc, sc, sc, hdc, dc, sc, sl st, sc, dc, hdc, sc, sc, sc, sc FO Sew to back. Will be just above the tail. Head spot: With gold, ch 4, turn, sc in 2nd ch from hook and next 2 ch, ch 1, in back loops, sc next 3 ch, ch 1 (6 sc + 2 ch) Row 1: sc next 3 sc, 2 sc in ch, sc next 3 sc, 2 sc in ch (10) Row 2: sc next 4 sc, 2 sc next sc, sc next 4 sc, 2 sc next sc (12) FO Sew to front. Eyebrows: (make 2) With yellow, 6 sc in magic circle (6) Row 1: sc next sc, 2 sc next sc, around (9) Row 2-3: sc in each sc around (9) Row 4: sc next 2 sc, 2 sc next sc, around (12) Row 5: sc next 2 sc, decrease over next 2 sc, around (9) Row 6: sc in each sc around (9) Row 7: sc next sc, decrease over next 2 sc, around (6) FO The first eyebrow I stuffed a little, but it was a bit difficult to curve. The second eyebrow I didn't stuff, it was a bit easier to form the curve and sew on head. See which works easier for you. With black, embroider a small curve on each of the eyebrows. See picture. Finish: Cut two large circles out of black and two slightly smaller circles out of white for the eyes. Cut two smaller black circles for pupils. Cut a moon shaped mouth out of white. I drew on two lines for the teeth or, you can embroider them if you prefer. Glue or sew to face. Darumaka and Pokemon are copyrighted by Nintendo.
I am always updating my posts and recently updated my list of free Pokemon crochet patterns so here is part two; Pokemon characters from M to Z. Scroll to the bottom of this post to find the first part. PART TWO Magikarp from Crochetnanigans Mankey Get a free Marill Pattern from Sabrina Sommers Marill Get Meowth from Cathrine Johansson on Ravelry Metapod crochet pattern from Cindy Tran Mimikyu Munchlax Mudkip from Crochetnanigans Natu Oddish Pokemon from Cindy Tran Oshawott Otter Reindeer Pokemon Get this free Pachirisu pattern from Sabrina Sommers Get this free Pikachu crochet pattern from Sabrina Sommers Get this Pikachu and pod pattern free from Amiamour Another Pikachu from 53 Stitches Amigurumi Pikachu in Umbreon Sleeping Bag from Delinlea Piplup Amigurumi Pattern from Loopy Catherine Poochyena Psyduck Amigurumi Crochet pattern from Ami Amour Psyduck Raichu pattern from knotbadami Ralts Crochet Pattern Sewaddle crochet pattern from Crochet Fanatic Sentret Pokemon crochet pattern from Loopy Cathrine Shiny Psyduck Pokemon Amigurumi Pattern from Loopy Catherine Sabrina Sommers offers this free Skitty crochet pattern on her website Slowpoke Smoochum Amigurumi Crochet pattern from Strings Away Snivy Get this Snorlax Amigurumi pattern free from Knotbadami Snorlax pattern from Miahandcrafter Spheal Spheal Amigurumi Crochet pattern from Loopy Catherine Spoink Amigurumi crochet pattern from Loopy Catherine Squirtle Squirtle squad pattern from khookcreations Sudowoodo pokemon crochet pattern from Lojamilomilo Sunflora pokemon crochet pattern from lojamilomilo Swinub Crochet Pattern from Michelle Hall Sylveon from 53stitches Sylveon Sabrina Sommers offers this Teddiursa crochet pattern for free Torchic Amigurumi crochet pattern from Loopy Catherine Treecko Amigurumi Crochet pattern from Strings Away Get this Totodile pattern from Crochetemall Umbreon from 53stitches Umbreon crochet pattern Vaporeon from 53 Stitches Vaporeon by Crochetemall Venusaur crochet pattern from khookcreations Voltorb Amigurumi Crochet Pattern from Loopy Catherine Vulpix from Chrochetnanigans Whimsur Amigurumi Pattern Wingull Wobbuffet Amigurui Pattern crochet pattern from Strings Away Wooper Amigurumi crochet pattern from Loopy Catherine Wooper plushie from Wolf Dreamer Pokeball Pokemon egg crochet pattern from Learning to love Fiber CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES Buneary crochet hat pattern from Crochet with Melanie Drifloon crochet hat from Crochet with Melanie Pikachu hat from crochet with melanie Snorlax hat from crochet with Melanie Snorlax hoodie crochet pattern from khookcreations Free crochet Pokemon Eevee Coffee Cup Cozy pattern from Enchanted Ladybug Crochet Pokeball Drawstring Bag from Ami Amour And you can find 60 more free Pokemon crochet patterns in Part One And more than 1000! Free crochet patterns from movies, video games and television shows here, as I am always updating so make sure you pin it for later.
COMPLETED: 33 GOAL: 649 I'm just about finished with my "25 Pokemon for Christmas" so I thought I should do a few Black and White Pokemon. I was flipping thru my son's Pokemon Handbook and I came across this cute little leaf wrapped Pokemon-Swadloon. It was very simple and quick to make. Materials: crochet hook, light green, medium green, yellow and black yarn, white and black felt Body: With medium green, 6 sc in magic circle (6) Row 1: 2 sc in each sc around (12) Row 2: sc next sc, 2 sc next sc, around (18) Row 3: sc next 2 sc. 2 sc next sc, around (24) Row 4: sc next 3 sc, 2 sc next sc, around (30) Row 5: sc next 4 sc, 2 sc next sc, around (36) Row 6-9: sc in each sc around (36) Row 10: sc next 4 sc, decrease over next 2 sc, around (30) Row 11: sc next 3 sc, decrease over next 2 sc, around (24) Row 12: sc next 2 sc, decrease over next 2 sc, around (18) Begin stuffing. Row 16: sc next sc, decrease over next 2 sc, around (12) Row 17: decrease over next 2 sc, around (6) Row 18: decrease over next 2 sc, around (3) FO and sew closed. Face circle: With yellow, ch 5, turn Row 1: 2 sc in 2nd chain from hook, sc next 2 ch, 4 sc next ch, in book loops of chain, sc next 2 ch, 2 sc next ch (12) Row 2: *2 sc next sc, sc next sc, hdc next 2 sc, sc next sc, 2 sc next sc* repeat twice (16) Row 3: *2 sc next sc, sc next 2 sc, hdc next 2 sc, sc next 2 sc 2 sc next sc* repeat twice (20) FO Sew to front of body. Large leaf: With light green, ch 2, 3 sc 2nd chain from hook, ch 1, turn (3) Row 1: sc next sc, 2 sc next sc, sc next sc, ch 1, turn (4) Row 2-3: sc in each sc across, ch 1, turn (4) Row 4: 2 sc next sc, sc next 3 sc, ch 1, turn (5) Row 5: 2 sc next sc, sc next 4 sc, ch 1, turn (6) Row 6:sc in each sc across, ch 1, turn (6) Row 7: 2 sc next sc, sc next 5 sc, ch 1, turn (7) Row 8: 2 sc next sc, sc next 6 sc, ch 1, turn (8) Row 9: sc in each sc across (8) Row 10: 2 sc next sc, sc next 7 sc, ch 1, turn (9) Row 11: 2 sc next sc, sc next 8 sc, ch 1, turn (10) Row 12: sc in each sc across, ch 1, turn (10) Row 13: 2 sc next sc, sc next 9 sc, ch 1, turn (11) Row 14: 2 sc next sc, sc next 10 sc, ch 1, turn (12) Row 15-21: sc in each sc across, ch 1, turn (12) Row 22: sl st 1st sc, sc next 11 sc, ch 1, turn (11) Row 23: sl st 1st sc, sc next 10 sc, ch 1, turn (10) Row 24: sc in each sc across, ch 1, turn (10) Row 25: sl st 1st sc, sc next 9 sc, ch 1, turn (9) Row 26: sl st 1st sc, sc next 8 sc, ch 1, turn (8) Row 27: sc in each sc across, ch 1, turn (8) Row 28: sl st 1st sc, sc next 7 sc, ch 1, turn (7) Row 29: sl st 1st sc, sc next 6 sc, ch 1, turn (6) Row 30: sc in each sc across, ch 1, turn (6) Row 31: sl st 1st sc, sc next 5 sc, ch 1, turn (5) Row 32: sl st 1st sc, sc next 4 sc, ch 1, turn (4) Row 33: sc in each sc across, ch 1, turn (4) Row 34: sl st 1st sc, sc next 3 sc, ch 1, turn (3) Row 35: sl st 1st sc, sc next sc, sl st next sc (1) FO Wrap leave around lower body. The ends of leaves should meet in yellow circle. Secure together. Medium leave: With light green, ch 2, 3 sc in 2nd ch from hook, ch 1, turn (3) Row 1: sc next 3 sc, ch 1, turn (3) Row 2: sc next sc, 2 sc next sc, sc next sc, ch 1, turn (4) Row 3: 2 sc next sc, sc next 2 sc, 2 sc next sc, ch 1, turn (6) Row 4: 2 sc next sc, sc next 4 sc, 2 sc next sc, ch 1, turn (8) Row 5-6: sc in each sc across, ch 1, turn (8) Row 7: 2 sc next sc, sc next 7 sc, ch 1, turn (9) Row 8: 2 sc next sc, sc next 8 sc, ch 1, turn (10) Row 9-10: sc in each sc across, ch 1, turn (10) Row 11: 2 sc next sc, sc next 9 sc, ch 1, turn (11) Row 12: 2 sc next sc, sc next 10 sc, ch 1, turn (12) Row 13-16: sc in each sc across, ch 1, turn (12) Row 17: skip 1st sc, sc next 11 sc, ch 1, turn (11) Row 18: skip 1st sc, sc next 10 sc, ch 1, turn (10) Row 19: sc in each sc across, ch 1, turn (10) Row 20: skip 1st sc, sc next 9 sc, ch 1, turn (9) Row 21: skip 1st sc, sc next 8 sc, ch 1, turn (8) Row 22: sc in each sc across, ch 1, turn (8) Row 23: skip 1st sc, sc next 7 sc, ch 1, turn (7) Row 24: skip 1st sc, sc next 6 sc, ch 1, turn (6) Row 25: skip 1st sc, sc next 5 sc, ch 1, turn (5) Row 26: skip 1st sc, sc next 4 sc, ch 1, turn (4) Row 27: sc next sc, hdc next 2 sc, sc next sc (4) FO Embroider line down center of leave. Arrange leave on top of body. Pointed end of leave (row 1) should lay over the forehead (yellow face) and the rest of leave falls to the back leaving a tail. Head leaves: (make 2) With light green, ch 6, turn Row 1: hdc, dc, tc,dc, hdc across the 5 ch FO Sew to top of head. Feet leaves: (make 2) With medium green, ch 3, turn Row 1-2: sc next 2 sc, ch 1, turn (2) Row 3: sc next 2 sc (2) Row 3: 2 sc next sc. sc next sc, ch 1, turn (3) Row 4: 2 sc next sc, sc next 2 sc, ch 1, turn (4) Row 5: 2 sc next sc, sc next 3 sc, ch 1, turn (5) Row 6: 2 sc next sc, sc next 4 sc, ch 1, turn (6) Row 7: skip 1 sc, 3 sc next sc, sc next 2 sc, 3 sc next sc, sl st next sc (8) FO (or if you prefer, turn and st st until you reach the 4th sc) Row 8: sc in 4th sc of row 7, sc next sc, ch 1, turn Row 9: 2 sc in each sc across, ch 1, turn (4) Row 10: skip 1st sc, dc next 2 sc, st st next sc (2) FO Sew to bottom of body Cut out two small eyes from black felt and two pupils from white felt. Sew to face. With black yarn add the mouth and eyebrows. Swadloon and Pokemon are copyrighted by Nintendo. Enjoy the pattern. If you have any problems let me know.
I feel like everything is starting to come back around again when my kids ask to watch show I have nostalgia about including Pokemon. I had so many Pokemon crochet patterns that I split this post into two parts. Scroll to the bottom to get the second post with Pokemon characters from M to Z. Absol from Crochetemall Aipom plushie crochet pattern from Wolf Dreamer Alola Meowth Amigurumi Pokemon from Catherine Johansson Alolan Exeggutor Altaria Azumarill Azumarill amigurumi crochet pattern from Loopy Cathrine Bayleef Bulbasaur from 53 Stitches Get this free Bulbasour pattern from Evelyn Pham Bulbasaur succulent holder from Knotbadami Bunnelby Crochet pattern from Kats Creations Butterfree Amigurumi crochet pattern from Ami Amour Nurse Chancey from ahareaffair Charizard from Knotbadami Charizard Mega Charizard Y by miahandcrafter Charmander Charmander Amigurumi Crochet pattern from Strings Away Charmander from Chrocetnanigans Cherrim Amigurim Pattern Cherubi Pokemon amigurumi crochet pattern from Loopy Catherine Chespin Amigurumi Chibi Gardevoir from Cindy Tran Get this Clefiary pattern from Chochetemall Cyndaquil Amigurumi crochet pattern from Strings Away Dedenne from crochetnanigans Delphox Ditto crochet pattern from Crochet Fanatic Drifloon Dustox Amigurumi crochet pattern from Frog & Fasten Electrode and Voltorb Amigurim crochet pattern from LoopyCatherine Get this Eevee Amigurumi crochet pattern free from Amiamour Eevee from 53stitches Another version of Eevee Electrode crochet pattern from Loopy Catherine Espeon Get this Espeon crochet pattern from Crochetemall Fennekin Pokemon Amigurumi Pattern from Strings Away Flareon from 53Stitches Froakie crochet pattern from Kats Creations Get this Furret pattern from Chrochetemall Galarian Corsola pattern from Frog & Fasten Galarian Slowpoke crochet pattern from Cindy Tran Glaceon from Evelyn Pham Glaceon Gliscor Gloom Amigurumi Haunter Amigurumi Pattern from Strings Away Get a free Hoppip pattern from Sabrina Sommers Houndoom crochet pattern Jigglypuff by Knotbadami Jigglypuff hat from Crochet with Melanie Jirachi crochet pattern from Danielle Adams Baby Jolteon Jolteon from 53Stitches Jolteon Amigurumi Pattern from Strings Away Koffing Koffing Amigurumi crochet pattern from Loopy Cathrine Baby Leafeon from Evelyn Pham Get Leafeon from Chrocetemall Leafeon Amigurumi from 53 Stitches Litten Litwick Lotad crochet pattern free download from Ravelry Luvdisc amigurumi pokemon crochet pattern from Loopy Catherine Pokemon crochet book with 20 cute patterns on Amazon And you can find Part Two of the free Pokemon crochet patterns here And you can find hundreds more free crochet patterns here
Free pattern time! 😄 Many people are having a great time with Pokémon GO, so here's something to take along on your travels! Enjoy! 🐾 😘 if you’d prefer to download the PDF, you can find the PDF version here. You will need: One small skein of redyarn One small skein of white yarn Some leftover black yarn Polyester stuff
Materialen: * Geel garen. * Zwart garen. * Bruin garen. * Rood en zwart vilt voor wangen en ogen. (Of borduren met wat restjes) * Vulling. * Stopnaald. * Haaknaald in juiste maat. Notitie: Zorg dat je de juiste haaknaald en garen hebt. Het liefst in gesloten toeren werken door middel van een halve vasten, maar als je in spiraal wilt werken is dat ook goed. Gebruik dan een stekenmarkeerder om het begin van de toer aan te geven. De nummers in ( ) aan het eind van de tekst per toer geven aan hoeveel steken deze toer moet hebben als je hem gehaakt hebt. Bij het minderen is het mooier om de onzichtbare manier van minderen te gebruiken. Dit doe je als volgt. Je pakt bij de steken die je gaat minderen alleen de voorste lus in plaats van de hele steek. Je kunt natuurlijk nooit helemaal onzichtbaar minderen maar het helpt om grote gaten te voorkomen. ( vooral bij opgevulde projecten zoals amigurumi of 3D gehaakte dingen) Hoofd en lichaam: Gebruik geel Toer 1: Gebruik de magische ring met 8 vasten. ( 8 ) Toer 2: In elke vasten 2 vasten haken. ( 16 ) Toer 3: 1 vasten, 2 vasten in volgende vasten dit rondom ( 24 ) Toer 4: 1 vasten in elke vasten rondom ( 24 ) Toer 5: *2 vasten, 2 vasten in volgende vasten* dit rondom herhalen ( 32 ) Toer 6: *3 vasten, 2 vasten in volgende vasten* dit rondom herhalen ( 40 ) Toer 7 t/m 13: vasten rondom ( 40 ) Toer 14: *6 vasten, 2 vasten samenhaken* dit rondom herhalen ( 35 ) Toer 15: *5 vasten, 2 vasten samenhaken* dit rondom herhalen ( 30 ) Toer 16: *4 vasten, 2 vasten in volgende vasten* dit rondom herhalen ( 36 ) Toer 17: *5 vasten, 2 vasten in volgende vasten* dit rondom herhalen ( 42 ) Toer 18: vasten rondom ( 42 ) Toer 19: *13 vasten, 2 vasten in volgende vasten* dit rondom herhalen ( 45 ) Toer 20: vasten rondom ( 45 ) Toer 21: *14 vasten, 2 vasten in volgende vasten* dit rondom herhalen ( 48 ) Toer 22: vasten rondom ( 48 ) Toer 23: *11 vasten, 2 vasten in volgende vasten* dit rondom herhalen ( 52 ) Toer 24 t/m 26: vasten rondom ( 52 ) Toer 27: *11 vasten, 2 vasten samenhaken* dit rondom herhalen ( 48 ) Toer 28: vasten rondom ( 48 ) Toer 29: *6 vasten, 2 vasten samenhaken* dit rondom herhalen ( 42 ) Toer 30: vasten rondom ( 42 ) Notitie: Het is een goed idee om met vullen te beginnen. Vul het hoofd en lichaam redelijk stevig op. Toer 31: *5 vasten, 2 vasten samenhaken* dit rondom herhalen ( 36 ) Toer 32: *4 vasten, 2 vasten samenhaken* dit rondom herhalen ( 30 ) Toer 33: *3 vasten, 2 vasten samenhaken* dit rondom herhalen ( 24 ) Toer 34: *2 vasten, 2 vasten samenhaken* dit rondom herhalen ( 18 ) Toer 35: *1 vasten, 2 vasten samenhaken* dit rondom herhalen ( 9 ) Afhechten en sluiten door de draad door de laatste steken te weven en zo aan te trekken. Laat een lang stuk draad over voor eventuele aanhechten. Armen: ( maak er 2 ) Gebruik geel. Toer 1: Gebruik magische ring met 6 vasten ( 6 ) Toer 2: vasten rondom ( 6 ) Toer 3: *1 vasten, 2 vasten in volgende vasten* dit rondom herhalen ( 9 ) Toer 4 t/m toer 6: vasten rondom ( 9 ) Toer 7: 5 vasten, laat de overblijvende 4 vasten ongebruikt. Draai je werk om. Sla eerste vasten over, 1 vasten in volgende vasten, dan de laatste 2 vasten samenhaken zodat je 3 vasten totaal krijgt. ( dit maakt een smalle ‘schouder’ die het in goeie positie moet brengen) Afhechten. Voeten: ( maak er 2 ) Gebruik geel. Toer 1: Gebruik magische ring met 6 vasten ( 6 ) Toer 2: *1 vasten, 2 vasten in volgende vasten* dit rondom herhalen ( 9 ) Toer 3: *2 vasten, 2 vasten in volgende vasten* dit rondom herhalen ( 12 ) Toer 4 en 5: vasten rondom ( 12 ) Toer 6: *2 vasten, 2 vasten samenhaken* dit rondom herhalen ( 9 ) Toer 7: Maak de voet plat zodat je de voor en achterkant tegen elkaar zet en haak deze samen vast. Je haakt dus nu door de voorste vasten en achterste vasten samen. Op deze manier haak je de voet dicht. ( de voet is niet gevuld ) Hecht af. Oren: ( maak er 2 ) Begin met zwart. Toer 1: Gebruik magische ring met 4 vasten ( 4 ) Toer 2: 3 vasten, 2 vasten in laatste vasten ( 5 ) Toer 3: 4 vasten, 2 vasten in laatste vasten ( 6 ) Toer 4: 5 vasten, 2 vasten in laatste vasten, ga over op geel ( 7 ) Toer 5: vasten rondom ( 7 ) Toer 6: 6 vasten, 2 vasten in laatste vasten ( 8 ) Toer 7: 7 vasten, 2 vasten in laatste vasten ( 9 ) Toer 8: 8 vasten, 2 vasten in laatste vasten ( 10 ) Toer 9: 3 vasten, 4 stokjes, 3 vasten ( 10 ) Afhechten. Staart: ( maak er 2 ) Gebruik geel. Toer 1: 11 losse, 2 vasten in 2e losse vanaf de haaknaald en 1 vasten in elke volgende losse( 10 ) Toer 2 en 3: vasten rondom ( 10 ) Toer 4: vasten rondom, 6 losse. ( 10 vasten + 6 losse ) Toer 5: vasten in 2e losse vanaf de haaknaald, vasten in elke volgende losse, daarna vasten in de volgende 5 vasten van toer 4 ( totaal heb je dan 10 vasten ) de overgebleven 5 vasten laat je ongehaakt. ( totaal 10 vasten ) Toer 6 en 7: 10 vasten rondom. ( 10 ) Toer 8: vasten rondom, 6 losse ( 10 vasten + 6 losse ) Toer 9: vasten in 2e losse vanaf de haaknaald, vasten in elke volgende losse, daarna vasten in de volgende 5 vasten van toer 8 ( totaal heb je nu 10 vasten ) de overgebleven 5 vasten laat je ongehaakt ( totaal 10 vasten ) Toer 10 t/m toer 14: vasten rondom ( 10 ) Toer 15: 3 vasten, 3 halve stokjes, 4 stokjes ( 10 ) Naai de 2 staartdelen samen door ze vast t naaien of aan elkaar te haken met vasten rondom. Je kunt er eventueel pijpenraggers indoen zodat je de staart kunt buigen. Met bruin: Toer 1: 7 losse, vasten in 2e losse vanaf de haaknaald en alle andere losse, ( 6 ) draai om Toer 2: sla eerste vasten over, vasten in elke vasten ( 6 ) Toer 3: sla eerste vasten over, vasten in elke vasten ( 5 ) Toer 4: sla eerste vasten over, vasten in elke vasten ( 4 ) Toer 5: sla eerste vasten over, vasten in elke vasten ( 3 ) Toer 6: sla eerste vasten over, vasten in elke vasten ( 2 ) Afhechten. Strepen op rug: Onderste streep. ( met bruin ) Toer 1: 15 losse, 1 vasten in 2e losse vanaf de haaknaald en elke volgende losse. ( 14 ) Toer 2: 2 vasten, 2 halve stokjes, 6 stokjes, 2 halve stokjes, 2 vasten ( 14 ) Afhechten. Bovenste streep. ( met bruin ) Toer 1: 11 losse, 1 vasten in 2e losse vanaf de haaknaald en elke volgende losse ( 10 ) Toer 2: 2 vasten, 2 halve stokjes, 2 stokjes, 2 halve stokjes, 2 vasten Afhechten Het in elkaar zetten: -Vul de armen en naai aan het lichaam, gebruik het plaatje om de plaats te bepalen. -Vul de oren en naar ze aan het hoofd. -Naai de voeten aan het lichaam. -Naai de strepen op de rug, gebruik het plaatje om de plaats te bepalen. -Naai de staart aan de achterkant van het lichaam onder de onderste streep in een hoek die jezelf mooi vind. -Naai het smalle driehoekje op de onderkant van de staart ( zie plaatje ) -Naai de ogen in het gezicht. -Met een klein beetje zwart garen naai je de neus op zijn plek. -Naai de wangetjes op het gezicht, je kunt hiervoor ook met rood de wangen haken door middel van de magische ring met 6 vasten. Pikachu en Pokemon zijn copywrite bij Nintendo. Dit patroon is slechts een vertaling van het originele patroon van Linda Potts. Op haar site vind je het originele patroon. Als je dit patroon wilt delen zorg dat dan je altijd een link erbij plaatst naar het origineel van Linda Potts. Dit patroon mag in geen geval verkocht worden. vertaald door Esther van Esthers Haakseltjes
