These Kitty Cat Scarf Crochet Patterns allow you to create unique scarves and add a touch of feline cuteness to your winter wardrobe.
Looing for some adorable amigurumi giraffe crochet patterns? Try these cute crocheted animal patterns. There is all kinds to try.
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Embrace winter joy by crocheting our enchanting Snowman Amigurumi Pattern! A charming project for decor or a heartwarming gift.
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Unearth the delightful Crochet Fox Lina Amigurumi pattern. A fun, hands-on venture for crochet hobbyists and woodland creature admirers.
Hello friends. Are you ready to make an amazing giraffe amigurumi? When you examine the crochet giraffe pattern, I can say that it is an easy pattern in general. It is also a very large amigurumi due to the use of velvet rope. This free amigurumi pattern you see has been shared with all its […]
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Hello amigurumi lovers and beautiful visitors, I wanted to share the free amigurumi patterns for you here. In
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Discover crochet tips and find inspiration for your next project. In this post, we show you the best free crochet lovey patterns.
Nestled amongst the cozy skeins of vibrant yarn, the Garfield amigurumi brings the sass and charm of the world's favorite orange tabby cat to life. This
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Obsessed with cute pincushion patterns? Here are the best free pin cushion patterns and tutorials. Start making pincushions now!
This pattern is for a life-sized anatomically corect human skull, intended to be made as part of my complete anatomical skeleton pattern, the patterns for which I'm gradually releasing - click here for the latest post in this series (you can see the older ones by scrolling to the bottom and clicking 'older posts'). This particular post focuses on the assembly of the skull and you will need to have already created all the bones. I have published these as 3 separate patterns: 1. Mandible and teeth 2. Larger bones 3. Smaller bones The bones required are: mandible, maxillae (left and right), temporal (left and right parts 1 and 2), frontal, occipital, sphenoid (all 3 parts), nasal bone, nasal conchae (x2), vomer, zygomatic bones (left and right), ethmoid bone, and 2 lacrimal bones Difficulty: Medium - difficult The assembly itself shouldn't be too difficult, but I've given it this difficulty level based on the fact that the creation of the bones can be rather challenging. You wiill need: A 1mm crochet hook Rico essentials #10 crochet cotton ain white and silver/grey Polyester toy stuffing A darning needle A pair of scissors Skull bones from each of the 3 patterns linked above. For the skull: First take the zygomatic bones and maxillae. Sew these together as shown in the photos below. Face M of the zygomatic bone should be sewn to face Z of the maxilla. The orbital surface of the zygomatic bone should be folded back and sewn to the top edge of face Z (i.e. the edge where the cast-off sts are located) Sew the nasal bone between the maxillae, as shown in the photos below. The cast-on and cast-off ends of the nasal bone should be sewn to edge N of the maxillae, making sure that it curves up into a bridge shape. You then need to sew the maxillae together by sewing faces M of each bone to each other. You will need to sew along both the top and bottom edges of this face. This shows how the section you've just made intersects with the jawbone. Next sew the vomer between the 2 maxillae, as shown below (the cast-on edge should be at the bottom, sewn to where faces M meet). The curved edge of the vomer (where the sc2tog/sc3tog sts are) should be facing the front of the skull. You now need to sew the nasal conchae to the sides of the nasal cavity, as shown in the images below. Sew the long side adjacent to the corner where you fastened off (circled) to the inside of the nasal cavity, about 1/3 of the way from the base. The piece should be sewn horizontally so that the cast-off edge is closest to the front of the skull. Fold it over and sew the other edge in place - it should form a sort of loop at the front, as shown in the photos below. top-down view After being folded up View from the side You now need to attach the ethmoid bone to the head. First sew the cast-on edge of the perpendicular plate to the top of the vomer (so that the end where you fastened off is pointing towards the front of the head). Then sew the front tip of the perpendicular plate to the centre back of the nasal bone. The dotted line shows the seam between the vomer and perpendigular plate. top-down view Sew the lacrimals to the skull. They should be sewn so that half of them articulates with the back of the nasal bone, and the other half with the maxillae, as shown below. Sew the front edge (i.e. the one closest to the front of the face) of the orbital lobe to the back of the lacrimals, and the lower edge to the maxillae, just behind where you attached the lacrimal bones. The blue line shows the seams between the ethmoid bone (E), lacrimals (L), and maxilla (M) The next step is to attach the frontal bone. Sew the middle section between the eye socket dips to the centre front edge of the nasal bone, as shown below. You then need to sew the end (face F) of each zygomatic bone to the frontal bone, at the outer edge of where the eye socket dips are located. We will now move on to assembling the larger bones of the skull. The images below show which piece all parts of the larger bones connect to. Note that these are intended as guidelines only - it's oka if you find that your bones line up slightly differently to what's indicated below. Frontal = blue Parietals = pink Occipital = red Temporal part 1 = light green Temperal part 2 = dark green Sphenoid=orange Zygomatic = purple Image S (sphenoid) Image T (temporal) Image P (parietal) Image F (frontal) Image O (occipital) Start by sewing the 2 parietal bones together, along the seam shown in pink in image P. You should then sew the occipital lobe to the back of the parietal lobe, sewing along the lines marked in pink in image O and red in image P. The next step is to attach the temporal bones to the parietal and occipital bones, as shown in the images below, attaching the corresponding sides shown in images O, P, and T above. We'll now return to the front section of the skull. Lay out the section you've already made sew that it's facing downwards, as shown below. The first step is to attach the greater wings of the sphenoid. Place them on top of the maxillae, as shown below. The pterygoid plates (circled in yellow) should be sitting flat against the maxillae below the rest of the wing. Don't sew them into position yet. Place the body of the sphenoid between the greater wings, as shown below. The sides of the body should be in line with the botton edge of the felt section on the greater wings. Sew the edge of the felt section of the wings to the base of the tube of the body. This is shown by the yellow lines in the image below. Place the sphenoid back on the frontal section, as shown below. Sew the sphenoid to the back of the skull. Sew the edge of the orbital surface of the sphenoid (where the line of stitching in the middle of the felt is) to the inner edge of the zygomatic bone. The cast-off edge of the orbital surface should then be sewn to the back edge of the frontal bone. Sew the lesser wings to the back of the frontal lobe, as shown in the photo below. You now need to sew the front of the head to the back. Start by positioning the frontal lobe between the left and right perietals, then sew these plates together. Pin the base of the occipital just behind and below the sphenoid, and pin the greater wings of the sphenoid to the edge of the temporals, as shown in the photos below. Sew along the line shown in light green in photo S. Sew the cast-off edges of the sphenoid to the frontal bone. Note that this shouldn't be sewn to the cast-off edge, the idea is just to close up the hole and hide the felt underneath (it should be sewn to the curved orange lines on image F above) The underside of the bone should now look as shown below. Place the 2nd part of the temporal bones in the holes either side of the occipital bone. Sew these in place according to the colours shown in photo T2 above. Sew the pterygoid plates to the back of the maxillae so that they lie flat, as shown below. Sew the tip of the occipital bone to the body of the sphenoid, then sew up any remaining holes that exist between the bones. Stuff the skull, then sew tips of the the temporal and zygomatic bones together as shown in the photo below. Sew the jaw in place. You can either do this directly or with the proper joint capsule and ligaments. For the joint capsule (make 2): With a 1mm hook and grey #10 yarn ch6 Row 1: sc in the 2nd chain st from hook and each of the next 4 chain sts. ch1, turn (5sc) Rows 2 - 12: (11 rows) sc in each st. ch1, turn Row 13: sc in each st Fasten off Sew the 2 ends of this section together to form a tube, then sew one end of this tube to the top of the jaw. Sew the other side to the temporal bone For the lateral ligament (make 2): With a 1mm hook and grey #10 yarn ch12 Row 1: sc in the 2nd chain st from hook and each of the next 10 chain sts. ch1, turn (11sc) Row 2: sc in each st Fasten off Sew one end of this to the temporal bone, just in front of where you attached the joint capsule, and the other to the tip of the jaw, in front of the joint capsule For the sylomandibular ligament (make 2): Ch11 Row 1: sc in the 2nd chain st from hook and each of the next 9sts Fasten off Sew one end of the ligament to the styloid process of part 2 of the temporal bones and the other to the bottom of the inner face of the jaw, as shown in the images below. For the sphenomandibular ligament (make 2): Ch14 Row 1: sc in the 2nd chain st from hook and each of the next 12 chain sts. ch1, turn (13sc) Row 2: Slip9, sc3, ch2 Row 3: Sc in 2nd st from hook, sc12 Fasten off Sew the flat end of this to the temporal bone, just behind where you attached the joint capsule. The other end (with the 2 points) should be sewn to the inside back of the jaw, about halfway down. That's all from this pattern - I hope you've enjoyed it! If you have any questions please email them to [email protected] and I'll do my best to answer them asap. If you want to keep up to date with what I'm currently working on the best way is to follow me on my Instagram. As always you're very welcome to sell finished products but please don't re-post this pattern or claim it as your own. Thank you!
English* The Barcelona Vest is knit top down, with increases at the shoulders that create a seam line. It has a super oversized fit with deep armholes and neckline Finished garment measurements: Lenght: (51)-55-(60)cm/(20)-21.6-23.6 “ 1/2 bust circumference (armhole to armhole) (50)-53-(57) cm/(19.75)-20.75-(22.5) “ Recommended needles: 5mm / US 8 (body) y 4.5mm/US 7 (rib) Yarn: 100% Alpaca by @oveja_lesa (chilean brand) 150 m 100 gr / 110yd/3.5 oz Weight :worsted (400)-450-(500) gr If you intend to knit a larger garment, you will need more yarn. Español Vest Barcelona , es un vest oversized con sisas y escote super profundo. Con una construcción especial en los hombros que se van formando con aumentos. Esta tejido en plano y en circular con agujas de 5 mm y 4.5 mm para el escote y sisa. Medidas prenda terminada: Largo de prenda: (51)-55-(60) cm Mitad de contorno de pecho: (50)-53-(57) cm Si quieres ver proyectos o mas detalles de la prenda entra a nuestro instagram.
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Ron, the crochet rhino amigurumi, measures about 13” tall standing up and 10” while sitting. And at this size, making him the perfect huggable size. Ron can be in any color as per his creator's preference. He’d be the best companion for children, keeping them comfortably safe and sound while they sleep.
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Wedding Umbrella Parasols Free Crochet Patterns: Lace Parasol Crochet Pattern
Tanner the Triceratops is a beginner friendly free triceratops crochet pattern. This dinosaur pattern includes detailed instructions and photos.
Do you want to crochet a spooky Eyeball for Halloween? Look at this FREE pattern to crochet a Eyeball Amigurumi! Perfect also as a Keychain!
In this tutorial, we'll delve into the delightful world of crochet book cover, focusing on turning a heart granny square into a book cover.
Get knitted coastal chic with our simple home dec
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Explore Your Crochet's free patterns blog and discover inspiring ideas to ignite your creativity. Read our post, 'Popcorn Heart Blanket Free Crochet Patterns'.
Nestled amongst the cozy skeins of vibrant yarn, the Garfield amigurumi brings the sass and charm of the world's favorite orange tabby cat to life. This
Create your own Mike and Sulley with our Crochet Amigurumi Patterns, perfect for fans and crochet enthusiasts of Pixar's "Monsters, Inc.
Finding simple string art patterns that suit beginners can be tough. Many available patterns end up being too complex or dont come with easy-to-follow instructions.
Get inspired with these 6 delightful umbrella crochet patterns! Enhance your crafting skills with these unique designs. #DIYCrafts #Crochet
A quick, easy pattern for a beautifully textured crochet hand towel. It's made using cotton yarn and works in the bathroom or kitchen.
Sorry for the blog-silence! I’ve been busy catching up with work, writing Michaels.com patterns, planning cool collabs for Yummy You! (p.s. our Ice Cream & Sunnies tee is now only $12.50!…
This is a crochet pattern in PDF – NOT the dolls in the picture! SKILL LEVEL -EASY but it's not for Beginners (This cat can be made very quickly. It's possible to complete more than five in a day!♥) LANGUAGES -ENGLISH SIZE -12cm ( 4.7 in ) if using fingering weight yarn on a 6mm crochet hook. *한국분들은 네이버 샾에서 한글도안으로 구매 가능하십니다.
Poppy The Chicken Free Knitting Pattern
