Now with size layers. This is not a printed pattern. This is a digital download. You will receive a link sent to the email used to order. You will receive several files in letter size: How to print, the front and back of the cover, the sewing instructions, and the pattern tiled in color. You will also receive several A0 sizes files: The entire pattern in color with solid lines, and the entire pattern in black and white with dashed lines with size layers. This means you can print the pattern in just the size you want by using a copy shop or tiling the pattern yourself and printing it on your home printer using the "poster" option in Adobe Acrobat. This is a link to the Adobe help page on how to use the poster option: Split Skirt 1890S HORSEBACK RIDING, BICYCLE, OR SPORTING SKIRT, 1940S BIB SKIRT, 1930S BEACH PAJAMAS GAUCHO, PALAZZO, WIDE LEG, AND SAILOR PANTS WITH PATCH POCKETS AND OPTIONAL BIB FRONT -FALL FRONT OR ZIPPER BACK CONSTRUCTION Sewing Pattern with Sizes 6 36, All Included Laughing Moon Mercantile 150 - Ladies Split Skirt, Culottes, or Palazzo Pants: Note: Views A, B, and C have a fully functioning fall front that closes with buttons. This is correct period construction for the 1890s through the 1940s. View D does not have a fall front but has a zipper at center back for modern or easy construction. All Views have a total of eight panels. There are two optional patch pockets on the side fronts. There are two options for length: View B has a shorter length of 31 inches and Views A, C, and D have a length of 40 inches. View A is the long length with the option of a panel that can be buttoned to the front of the skirt to disguise the fact that it is actually a split skirt. Views A and Ds front waistband is at the natural waist. View Bs center front extends upward about 4 inches for a short bib. The bib is held up by suspenders that go over the shoulders and cross in the back and attach at the back waistband. View C is the longer skirt with the center front pieces extending about 10 1/2 inches for a longer bib. The bib is held up with suspenders the same as View B. View D is the longer skirt that does not have a fall front and instead has a center back opening that closes with a zipper. All fabrics for all Views are easiest to construct with a solid color because matching plaids or prints across the 8 panels would be an advanced sewing skill. Or, the panels could be of dissimilar fabrics as a design choice.

How to do a full bust adjustment and a small bust adjustment, from patterns with darts to princess seams to patterns with no darts, there's a method here

Understanding Round and Oval Shapes (in order to create head) There is no animal or doll toy without head. Understanding and learning how to make one is essential when creating your toy. This simpl…

the all well cardigan coat is a foundational sewing pattern for a simple and versatile layering piece that can fill any wardrobe hole you throw at it! this pattern is appropriate for beginners and advanced sewists and everyone in between, as it’s an opportunity to experiment and make choices as you sew to make a completely unique garment each time you pick up the pattern. the pattern comes with fully illustrated instructions and a free hacking guide (!!!) to help the creative juices keep flowing long after you’ve made the pattern once or twice or five or six times! bring your curiosity and your ideas to this pattern and we will walk with you all along the way! More information, pictures, and fabric requirements can be found on our website. (https://allwellworkshop.com/cardigan-coat) PATTERN SPECS: Six sizes (Bust Circumference 32-62" [81-157 cm}) with three length options and custom sleeve length. For more detailed size information, visit our website! Here's the link: https://allwellworkshop.com/cardigan-coat ALSO INCLUDES: The FREE (!!!) All Well Cardigan Coat Hacking Guide, an indispensable guide to making the All Well Cardigan Coat your very own every time. SEWING LEVEL: This pattern is appropriate for beginners, but will be fun for sewists of all levels to sew. PATTERN INCLUDES: - Print-at-home pdf pattern - Copy shop pattern - Instruction Booklet with illustrations. - Hacking Guide with illustrations, instructions, and tons of inspiration. PLEASE NOTE: This pattern is a digital download. It is not available in print. Once you have made your purchase, you will receive a link to download the print-at-home pattern pdf, copy shop pdf, and instructions pdf. Visit our Help + FAQ page (https://allwellworkshop.com/help-faq) or contact us at amy [!at] allwellworkshop.com or through Etsy if something goes wrong and you have trouble accessing any of the files. PRINTING YOUR PDF PATTERN: In the print settings, set the pattern to print at “Actual size” (or 100% scale). You can print your pattern on a wide-format printer or desktop printer—your purchase includes full-size and tiled versions. The copy shop file is A0 in width but takes up less height (33.1” x 24.7” / 84 cm x 63 cm)). You can print the tiled version on US Letter and A4 paper sizes. When printing at home, just print the first page, then check the test square with a ruler or measuring tape to make sure the pattern printed at the right size. If they’re correct, print the remaining pages and tape them together. For printing help, visit our Printing Help page on our website! (https://allwellworkshop.com/printing-help) This pattern was designed by Amy Bornman (www.amybornman.com) for All Well Workshop and produced in collaboration with Amelia Greenhall (www.ameliagreenhall.com). ©️ Amy Bornman, All Well Workshop. All rights reserved. Written permission is required to copy and/or distribute copies of this document, whether or not you profit from it. Photocopying, digitizing and all other copying to share this document is strictly prohibited. Help support the development of new All Well patterns by sharing the link to purchase with any friends who want to make a copy. Purchase of this pattern entitles you to make as many All Well Cardigan Coats as you like for your personal use, including to give as gifts. Please do not sell garments made using this pattern in any quantity.

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Patterns aren't cheap. Seriously, I was browsing through through the look books at Hobby Lobby the other day and some of them were as much as $20. Tack that on to the price of fabric and other supplies and suddenly sewing your own clothing becomes very expensive. Thankfully, you can make your own patterns using your own clothing that you know to fit well. I'll show you how to make a simple blouse pattern using a top of my own. I used Scotch Postal Wrapping Paper as my pattern paper. I found it at Target for about $5. It gives you 30 feet of paper, so it will last a long time. I used paper because I like to lay my pattern piece down and trace the shape directly onto my fabric. If you think you'd prefer to pin the pattern to your fabric and then cut it out, paper may not be the way to go for you. Muslin fabric is another great material that would allow you to pin the pattern piece to your fabric. It's also nice because it can be folded up and stored away when not in use. Lay your garment down on the paper and determine the middle of the top. Mark right above the collar and right below the hem. Draw a rough outline of one half of the top. When you get to the sleeve, do your best to fold it back so that you just see the armhole. Sketch the curve as shown below. This first pattern piece I'm working on will serve as the back of the pattern. Sketch the outline of the slightly higher, back collar. Stop once you get to the half marks that you previously made. Now you'll need to sketch an outline outside the dotted line to allow for seam allowances. To determine how far apart the rough sketch line should be from the final outline of the pattern you'll need to take what materials you're working with into consideration. For example: The lace top I am using has a stretch quality to it. If I want to use this pattern to make a top with a non-stretch fabric, I will need to make the final pattern outline a good amount wider than my rough sketch. However, if I was using a non-stretch garment to make my pattern I wouldn't have to allow for as much extra fabric. It's always better to have a too big pattern and therefore a too big top than it is to go too small. Don't be afraid to be generous. Extend the outline by about 1.5 inches along the sides and about 1 inch at the armholes and collar. Extend the bottom of the top by several inches to allow for hemming. Cut on the line and fold the pattern over making sure that the crease is on the middle marks you made previously. Trace so that you have a perfectly symmetrical pattern. Repeat the same process for the front piece of the pattern being sure to trace the front part of the collar this time. Now for the sleeves. Fold a piece of paper and position it underneath the garment and the pattern. The fold should be parallel to the top of the sleeve. Trace the curve of the front pattern piece. Leave plenty of extra room for the sleeve to be hemmed. Remember it's better to go oversized than undersized. You can always take the shirt in if it is a little too big. Cut out all of your pieces and press to get rid of creases and you're done! *Update* I recently used this pattern to make this cute little top. Click on the picture for the full tutorial!

Pros and Cons of Owning a Sewing Machine to help you make an easy and informed decision. Should you really invest in a sewing machine or not!

In the world of fashion and utilitarian clothing, zippers are the unsung heroes who, quite literally, keep everything together. Zippers are essential in everyday life, whether they’re found on your…

These two treasures are my recent covetous eBay win. As much as I am meant to be saving for Christmas buys, these come up so rarely I just couldn't hold back. There were a good twenty plus books listed as separate lots, something for which I am very grateful, and I allowed myself two. I bid on a few of them, but these were the two I came away with: books number 9 and 21. Though they have no dates they will most likely be late '40s. If you haven't come across the Haslam systems before, it was designed as a three part drafting system, requiring a chart of your measurements, a special drafting curve/template, and a set of draftings like these. Having finally got to see the draftings for myself, however, you could easily draft these pattern up without the chart or the template, as they are very thorough with the measurements on the diagrams. The original curve templates do come up on eBay occasionally, though they can be hard to find amongst listings as people so rarely know what they are if they are found out of context. Alternatively, I came across this blog post, where you can download a PDF version to print at home! I love the generosity of the blogging community. Book number 9 is for "Lingerie: with blouses, skirts, overalls and maternity wear". There are several dressing gowns and house robes Nightdresses... Pyjamas... And lots of lingerie, including slips, bras and different styles of knickers. I love the pockets of this skirt, and the blouse is a classic 1940s style: There are also some maternity styles including dresses and smock tops. This lovely swing jacket would be beautiful for non-maternity wear too- it looks so comfy! Book number 21 is for "Spring and Summer" wear, and has pages of full colour illustrations in addition to the black and white sketches. The ruffled peasant dress is so feminine and sweet. Beautiful scalloped details. I'm also in love with the simple shawl collar and clean silhouette of the pink dress below: I'll be on the hunt for some winter fabric to make this one up soon I think. Suits and coats. My favourite is the ruffled peplum design on the pink jacket.

It's critical to evaluate the fit and style of any pattern before you sew it. This crash course tells you what to look for.

After years of rummaging the Internet for tutorials and information on how to make a Terno sleeve, I have finally found the best tutorial that show how to pattern make and also sew this sleeve. I a…

Okay guys, this post has turned into a pretty long and reasonably epic one and that's because there's not actually a lot of information out there on doing Full Bust Adjustments on fitted knit patterns. There are lots of tutorials for FBA's on wovens, but not knits - which I suppose comes down to the fact that knits are much more forgiving. That being said, I completely understand that for some of you, an FBA may be needed, even on a stretchy knit like Bronte. I would always do a muslin to check if you can get away without doing one first though, and one thing you may want to consider trying first is cheating the extra room you need in the front by grading up a size or two in the bust on the front pattern piece only, and then adding length at the 'Lengthen/shorten' line on both pattern pieces. If you don't think that this is going to work for you though, then please read on... Doing an FBA (Full Bust Adjustment) The goal of an FBA is to add width and length to the front pattern piece to accommodate a bust that is larger than a B or C cup (most often a B cup in commercial patterns), without messing with the neckline. To do this, you generally slash and spread your pattern. (Note - you will end up creating a bust dart with a standard FBA, but don't worry, we'll talk about that in a moment). I'm not going to go into detail about how to do a standard FBA, mostly because there are so many great tutorials out there already (I love how clear this one is, but as I said, there are lots of great ones). What I would like to point out though is that when you take your high bust measurement and bust measurement to get how much you should be adding to your bust line, remember that you are dealing with a fitted knit pattern that is meant to have some negative ease (i.e it's deliberately smaller than your measurements and that's where the stretch comes in, to skim and hug your body). For this reason, I wouldn't add in the normal amount you would on a woven. Perhaps try adding half your normal amount to Bronte first, and then see if you need more. For example, if you have a 1 inch difference, try adding in 1/2 an inch first. One other thing you'll need to consider is where your apex actually sits on the pattern. Due to the fact that Bronte is a knit with negative ease, you can't necessarily hold the pattern up to you to find it (as you would on a woven). I honestly don't really have any scientific way of finding this either. All I can suggest is that you try on some other similar tops, locate your apex on them, and then transfer this to your Bronte pattern piece. Alternatively, make up a muslin without the FBA and locate it once you've got it on, then do an FBA on the pattern piece. I can't think of an easier way, but if you have one, do let us know! What to do with that dart you've now created... Now that you've done your standard FBA, you're going to be left with a side bust dart, and that's because you've added length to the side seam of the front and not to the back. That dart takes care of the extra length you've added so that your front and back pattern pieces will match along the side seam. Below is my 'faux' FBA on my mini Bronte pattern piece - I've just guessed where the apex may be and then have slashed and spread my pattern piece to create the imaginary extra room needed and therefore the side dart... Do you see that pesky dart we created on the side seam underneath the arm pit? Bronte (and most knit t-shirts) are dart-less, so how do you deal with this extra side length in a knit t-shirt? Below are three options, but there are probably more, so do let us know if you have one. 1 - Ease the dart into the side seam If you don't want to sew in a side seam dart, then you could think about rounding out the dart and then easing the excess into your side seam. I would approach this in much the same way I would when easing a sleeve cap into a set-in sleeve. Put some basting stitches into the seam allowance, gather them lightly into a 'cup' and sew up the side seam. If you have a length-wise stretch in your fabric, you could also think about stretching your back piece down a little to help accommodate any excess side ease from the front. Be careful when doing this though as you don't want to stretch your fabric so much that you end up with wrinkles and ripples in the final garment. 2 - Dart Manipulation 1. Once you've performed your FBA, you'll be left with a pattern piece that looks something like the below. You'll have a 'dart' at the side bust that you might want to rotate that dart out, so... Does this picture look like half a Transformer to anyone else? 2. Transfer the straight line of your bottom left pattern piece (the red dashed line below) onto the paper below your pattern, you'll use this as a guide in the next few steps. 3. At the pivot point circled below, bring your bottom left bodice section back up and tape in place. Below is what that'll look like, with the grey dashed line indicating the line you drew in step 2. 4. Cut back along that old 'dart' leg indicated by the red dashed line (yes, the one you just joined back up in step 3) BUT leave a pivot point at the side seam (indicated by the circle below). Using your pivot point, bring your bottom left section back up and align it with your original, dashed line. 5. True up your bottom hem. And you're done!! The honey coloured outline below is the original piece - you can see that you've kept the additional length and width that came from doing the FBA, but you've eliminated the dart at the same time. So that, Ladies, is how it's done. Let me know if you have any questions or have any success with this method! I'd love to hear about it. 3 - Sew the dart in For some people, sewing the dart into the t-shirt might just be the best option, particularly if you have a large cup size. This might seem like a strange thing to have in a knit t-shirt, but it's only strange because it's uncommon, and uncommon doesn't mean it's a bad thing. It will mean you will have a beautifully fitting top, and if you have a busy print, you probably won't even notice that little dart line. Two issues you may come across with sewing a dart in however are - if you have a lightweight knit, the dart may move around underneath, and with a heavier knit, you may see the outline from the right side. To combat both of these issues, you could cut the dart out close to the seam once it's been sewn in. Do you have any tricks for doing an FBA with knits? xx J

Learning how to alter a pattern can be a project-saving skill. The key element to a great wardrobe is not the patterns or the prints. A good wardrobe first and foremost consists of pieces that fit well. A perfectly fitting piece can be a miracle worker. With this in mind, we have collected a few key tips on how to alter a pattern and make it fit just right in How to Alter a Sewing Pattern. This is by no means an all-encompassing guide to DIY pattern alteration but it can certainly get you started! Before jumping into the quick tips we have here for adjusting sewing patterns, we will go over several pages that will help you find patterns, understand sewing with patterns better, as well as tips to become a better sewist. Sign Up For More Free Patterns >>> Table of Contents Before Starting: Helpful Resources How to Alter a Pattern for Length How to Alter a Pattern for Width Other Alteration Tips

Supplement 302 - Model #253 - Autumn 2016 Trousers with Button Front Closure This will be my outfit for a casual holiday party this weekend. I'll likely pair it with a black velvet jacket or a cashmere cardigan. Despite the trouble I had figuring out the sewing sequence for this pattern it really was very well designed. Pattern Drafting Hints: Enlarging this pattern to my size was very straightforward as with most Lutterloh patterns. The pieces all fit together very nicely and they produced a nice fitting pair of slacks. The greatest challenge I encountered was with figuring out the sewing order. As you can see from the pattern pieces there are very few letters to direct you. A,B,C, and D are the only hints you get and that really only gets you through the front and back pockets. The real puzzle begins once you attach the facings and try to overlap the front legs onto the side front. I won't detail my sewing sequence here because it was fraught with pinning and sewing followed by ripping and eventually hand basting to get the layers in the right order. When you finally get to sewing the outside leg seam there are a total of 6 layers of fabric to sew together at the point of the triangular side front where all the facings meet. Make sure to pin and check before sewing this spot to be certain all the facings will be caught in the seam and stay tucked inside the leg. This is definitely not a fit as you go type of pattern. Once you get those side seams sewn you do not want to mess with them again! You will still have the center front and center back seam for minor adjustments but this is not the first Lutterloh pants you should be making. As long as you've already made some Lutterloh pants to determine the shape of your hip curve and length and depth of your crotch this pattern should fit just fine with adjustments that you've already worked out. Just draw it to your regular Lutterloh measurements, make your usual figure alterations and take your time assembling the pieces of the puzzle! Fabric Used/Suggested: Although this pattern is clearly a trouser pattern I chose to make mine in a stretch denim. This does affect the hang of the pants but I was trying to replicate my Dittos jeans that I remember from my youth. As soon as I saw the pattern I knew exactly how I wanted them to look. I think I got pretty close considering I no longer have the figure of a teenager ;). To cut down on the bulk of the many layers I used a navy broadcloth for the facings and pocket bags. I also sewed navy twill tape into the waistband to prevent stretching out of shape. Be sure to use a fabric that will take a press. This will save you frustration when lining up all those layers at the side seams. Design Changes: I only made one small design change to this pattern. I wanted to avoid any gaping at the button closure so I used 5 buttons on each side instead of 4. The look on the model was exactly what I was hoping for. Other than adding a little width at the thighs and length at the bottom I made no adjustments to this pattern. I may go back and sew the back crotch just a bit deeper but since these are actually trouser jeans now I may leave the closer fitting crotch. Closing Hints: I must admit I'm happy to be done with these pants so I can move on to some simpler sewing projects. Don't get me wrong, I love how they turned out in the end, but the puzzle of the sewing sequence does not make me want to repeat the experience. Overall I'd say this really is an excellently drafted pattern but unless you are up for a challenge I would leave this pattern to the more expert seamstresses. I hope you all make some time for sewing in the busy holiday season ahead. I'm sure glad I did. Ann in Calif.

Schnittanpassungen sind unerlässlich für ein Kleidungsstück mit gelungener Passform, aber wie erkennt man ob man anpassen muss? Und muss das wirklich sein? Die Maße stimmen, aber das Kleidungsstück passt nicht? Wieso klettert ein Rock hoch? Am Beispiel der großen Brust wird die Notwendigkeit von Anpassungen im Schnittmuster und die Kraft von Abnähern beschrieben.

An overview of fabric types to consider when sewing for dolls

This is a PDF downloadable pattern. Both Curvy & Standard fits are included with your purchase. The Free Range Slacks are casual, comfortable, and timeless high-waisted pants with your choice of a wide or tapered leg. Both options have an elastic high waist, side panels, topstitched front pockets, and optional back patch pocket(s). The instructions include options for French and flat-fell leg seams. This is a confident beginner pattern. Sizes 00 - 20 & Curvy Fit 18 - 34. Layered pattern files. Need help choosing your size? See our Fit Guide for sizing information. Show us your #freerangeslacks on Instagram Having trouble printing your PDF pattern? Click here for our PDF Troubleshooting Tips!   Pattern Features High waist with wide elastic waistband Front slash pockets Side panels Optional back pocket(s) Version #1 Tapered leg  Version #2 Straight, cropped leg  Fabrics, Sundries & Measurements Fabrics: Bottom weight fabrics with some drape such as linen, cotton/linen blends, cotton twill, linen/viscose blends, light to mid-weight denim, Tencel twill, cotton poplin, wool gabardine. Sundries: Thread, 1 1/2/40mm wide elastic (length = waist measurement + 1/2"/13mm) Tools: Fabric scissors, iron & ironing board, straight pins, tailor's chalk, sturdy safety pin. Tutorials Free Range Slacks Tutorial on YouTube Free Range Slacks Tutorial (Blog Post) Pattern Files PDF downloadable pattern files include: Standard Sizes: Instructions 8.5" X 11" or A4 paper size, 26 pages, 6.9 MB At Home Tiled Pattern File 8.5" X 11" or A4 paper size, 54 pages, 1.3 MB U.S. Copy Shop File 36" X 112" 1 page, 160 KB; A0 Copy Shop File 3 pages, 161 KB; How To Use Acrobat Layers 1 page, 719 KB zip file that includes all of the above files 5 files, 8.9 MB Curvy Fit sizes: Curvy Instructions 8.5" X 11" or A4 paper size, 26 pages, 6.1MB At Home Tiled Pattern File Version #1 - 8.5" X 11" or A4 paper size, 40 pages, 1.2 MB At Home Tiled Pattern File Version #2 - 8.5" X 11" or A4 paper size, 44 pages, 1.2 MB U.S. Copy Shop File Version #1 36" X 90" 1 page, 152 KB; U.S. Copy Shop File Version #2 36" X 88" 1 page, 145 KB; A0 Copy Shop File Version #1 2 pages, 154 KB; A0 Copy Shop File Version #2 2 pages, 149 KB; Shipping Info To view our shipping and delivery information please click here.

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Read Advancedsewingte1055mead by Martyna Gutauskaitė on Issuu and browse thousands of other publications on our platform. Start here!

Bluebell is an all-purpose classic Tote (Handbag) that you can make using Bagstock Designs very informative PDF downloadable pattern and

På begäran finns detta inlägget även på svenska. Det hittar du här. Why and when you need to make an FBA Most patterns are constructed with a cup size B in mind (sometimes a C). A cup size is a relative measure and not a fixed volume. That means that you can be a B-cup and still span across sizes 0-18 (or whatever) - the volume of a B cup size 18 is a lot bigger than a B cup size 0 . If the pattern maker should cater for all cup sizes they would need to make one pattern for every cup size AND every size!! Imagine that pattern sheet!!! Gee, that would be crazy, which is why they stick with only one cup for all sizes and let us do the adjustments at home. It was so much simpler when women were all Barbies. ;-) See that should probably answer your question on WHY ON EARTH clothes in the store never ever fit you right. Same reason. All made for the same one cup size... Now. For those of you who are a little intimidated by this, or that may be afraid that you are changing the design of the garment. Chill out. It is really quite simple and this is done to KEEP the design and not to distort it. I will be showing FBA on the Alma Blouse from Sewaholic Patterns. Signs that you need an FBA Fashion photo borrowed from Ottobre 5/2011, sewing pattern magazine. If you would solve the above problems by just wearing a larger size, then the fit around your waist and shoulders will not be great. Just because the boobs are big, you haven't changed your frame, right? In this picture I am wearing my first Alma. I did just that, i.e. no FBA and went with a larger size. No complete disaster but there is definitely a lot to ask if you're picky, like me. No FBA, larger size to fit the bust. Another 'classic' we are all much too aware of, is the buttoned shirt where you are afraid to move your arms in case the buttons will pop off (have you ever taped, sewn, safety-pinned or glued the fabric in place between the boobs to feel secure?). I was just done wearing shirts altogether until I learned about FBA. Another graphic to illustrate this (I am such an artist!): You see that the green "fabric" needs to be way longer than the red "fabric", even though the neck and the waist are in the same places. This drawing is necessary to calm those of you who fear your garment will be bigger and tent-like after a FBA is done. It won't be, but your boobs will fit. The FBA process Now there are certain steps to take in order to succeed with the pattern alteration. I am sure there are many different ways to do this, but this is how I do it. If you have a better way, do tell! I am eager to learn! #1 Find your size and trace your pattern!! Really goes without saying, but you will be doing some cutting so don't spoil the original sheets. What size to cut? It is not always a clear answer to that, since we are all different. Some women have broad shoulders and should select a size that accommodates them, while others have a tummy to include in the game. If you have sewn some in the past you may have an idea on how the rest of your frame fits into patterns? If not. Do measure your "high bust" measurement instead. That is putting a tape measure under your armpits, around your back and OVER your bust (as opposed to across your widest part). Then measure your waist, hips etc and select the size that is closest to fit. For myself I've learned that my shoulders are pretty average and usually fit into patterns without alteration so I just go by the waist measure and that's my size. The boobs will be taken care of soon. My measures: High bust (as described above): 36 inches Waist (my skinniest part of the torso): 30 inches According to the pattern back table those measures are exactly a size 10. Meaning that if I had a B-cup, a size 10 would fit me like a glove. For reference my real bust measurement is 39 inches = 3 inches larger than the size 10 of the table. So, I will now trace a size 10 exactly as is and cut it out. Size 10 straight from the pattern. Darts in yellow. #2 Find your apex and make sure the darts point to it. This step is more important than you might think, you'll see why in a minute, so don't give this a miss. If you look at the pattern, all darts usually point towards the same point - the apex. Apex being the highest point of your chest (for most people, the nipple). If you run right into a wall, your apex is the point that hits the wall first, unless your nose beats you to it ;-) Mark your apex on the pattern. Is it in the same place as pattern wants it to be? Congratulations, move on to #3. If not, go to a plastic surgeon and have your nipples moved into the correct location. OR, you can alter the pattern, which is what I prefer. It is cheaper too. Original apex marked yellow. My apex marked blue. As you can see in the picture my apex is quite far off the original location. Now I need to make sure the darts point towards the blue X instead of the yellow. The easiest thing is to move the waist dart. Just put a piece of paper over the yellow one and copy it. Then put the copy in the position you want UNDER the pattern sheet and then just trace a new one. My pattern now looks like this: Blue is my new waist dart. Now there are two ways of changing the bust dart so that it points towards YOUR apex. You either just start at the side markings of the dart and adjust the angle of the point, then true up the dart legs. The reason I don't prefer to do it this way is because you then change the design of the garment (if you're picky). The bust dart will then, in my case, be tilted slightly downwards instead of more upwards. The other way to do it is to lower the entire dart the same amount as your apex is lowered, in my case 3 cm. Before you do that it is wise to fold up the current dart and mark the sideline of the "sewn" garment so that you know what it should look like after you have moved the dart. Blue is new bust dart, 3 cm lower than the yellow. Cut off the paper between the yellow dart legs (marked blue line) and fold up your new dart to verify the shape of the side seam. Okay, so why was all this hassle important again? Well, now that everything points towards apex you can go crazy in the next step and still be sure that you add fabric only in the right places - without adding to your waistline, armpits or other places!!! And it kind of looks shitty when a dart points in the wrong direction too. And this goes for other types of FBAs too! As long as you keep your FBA in the middle of dart and/or tuck markings you are not distorting the design - it doesn't matter from what place or angle the dart/tuck originates!! Beautiful! So, NOW we can actually start doing the FBA! #3 - the actual FBA!!! If you remember from #1 above, I needed to adjust the front piece by 3 inches = 1,5 inch (4cm) on one pattern half. A rule of thumb in adjustment is 1 cm per cup size (counting from B), which would in that case suggest that I wear a size F, which I do :-) But - another aspect to take into account is the "finished measurements" of the garment. For my bust, being 39'', the ready measures for the garment around the bust is 43'' which is more ease than I like, even for a loose fitting blouse. Therefore I'll do an FBA of 2cm on a half front, instead of 4cm. Time to cut up the pattern! For this step I strongly advise working over a grid since it makes life so much easier. Remember I said we want to cut within of our darts to not distort the design. The first cut is vertical from the bottom, through the waist dart, to the apex The next cut is from the apex to the armpit. Aim for anywhere on the lower 3rd of the curve - but DO NOT cut all the way through!! Leave just a tiny piece of the paper. The next cut is from the side through the bust dart up to the apex - but NOT all the way, leave a little just before reaching apex. The last cut is a horizontal cut from the waist dart to the centre fold side. Cut all the way through. All the cuts are marked in red on my pattern: Now remember for my FBA I wanted 2cm on the half front. When I cut and spread I want 2cm space in every direction: Shove a new piece of tracing paper underneath and draw the darts again and true up the legs: Note! Your new darts will be way bigger than the old ones (compare the blue bust dart with the old yellow one). This makes total sense - try fold a paper into a cone. I tall cone means longer dart than a short cone, right?! The waist dart now is extended all the way down, because I don't want to add width to the waist, but you can shape it differently if you like. And if you wanna be fancy then trace the whole thing on new paper and there you go!! The finished piece!! No go sew! The result will look something like this (the blouse has been worn for a couple of hours in the picture if you wonder why I haven't ironed it properly). Still quite roomy and comfy but skims off the body nicely. Compare with the non FBA'd pic from the top... I rest my case. /Alexandra

La Brea Tee Named after La Brea Avenue in Los Angeles. It was in a vintage shop there that I found myself drawn to a rack of 80s throwback knit t-shirts with grown-on sleeves and bound necklines. I remembered wearing this style as a child and I couldn't wait to get back home and sew one up for myself. Although LA BREA will fit your "basic tee" needs, it's got plenty of interesting details! LA BREA was drafted for both woven and knit fabrics, each resulting in a completely different look. Raw edges are neatly worked away with French seams and bias facing. Not familiar with these yet? No worries - the instructions guide you smoothly through the steps. Perhaps most exciting, though, is that this pattern comes in 18 different layered and nested sizes, each with a B-cup and D-cup options. Additional tips on fitting and adjustments are included in the pattern instructions, meaning that you can easily create a LA BREA to fit YOUR beautiful body and personal style. SIZINGapprox. US size 0 to 36Whalfmoon ATELIER patterns do not follow standard sizing charts, but newer patterns, including the LA BREA tee, range from a full bust of 76cm to 160cm (30" to 63") and a full hip of 86cm to 170cm (33.75" to 67").    101 Jeans Reminiscent of iconic classics, the halfmoon 101 JEANS are lower-rise, straight leg and designed for a non-stretch (selvedge) denim. Designed to be snug around the hips and upper thighs, the halfmoon 101’s will curve nicely around your waist and hug your hips before straightening out from just above the knee toward the ankle. There is an option for zipper or concealed button fly and the instructions will walk you through flat-felling the seams to create a simple look with a truly individual fit. This pattern is drafted for approximately a 168cm (5’6”) female body, with a full hip ranging from 86cm to 170cm (33¾” to 67”). Step-by-step instructions are fully illustrated for sewing with a standard sewing machine and/or serger. SIZING18 sizes, approx. US size 0 to 36Whalfmoon ATELIER patterns do not follow standard sizing charts, but newer patterns, including the 101 JEANS, range from a full hip of 86cm to 170cm (33.75" to 67"). They are numbered 1 to 18, but correspond approximately to US 0 to 36W. The pattern is printed on A0 sheets and sent in a cellophane packet. You then have a choice with the instructions, you can either have them printed and sent with the pattern for £2.00 extra or you can have them sent via email for no extra charge. All of our printed patterns are sent via Royal Mail 48.

Edit 13 December, 2013: I was alerted today that the copyright for this book may have been renewed so I have taken down the link. I apologise for the inconvenience but this is a precaution I have t…

Pattern cutting is like writing a recipe for a cake (for me that's a chocolate cherry roulade at the moment!).

For more information, please see my blog post HERE

Sewing is such an important part of our lives. There’s nothing better than thinking back to when we learned the ins and outs of our favorite craft.

Third edition.

This is the first of a new series of pattern making posts called #PatternInsights, that is me sharing the lightbulb moments of my pattern making career. Not quite as 101 as our #PatternFundamentals a

pattern

103 p. 19 cm

If you have ever looked at a sewing pattern, you probably know how much information is packed into those small packages. From the type of pattern, materials needed, instructions, the pattern, and so on, it's not easy to know how to read a sewing pattern. The good news is that you get a lot of information to work with, from written and illustrated instructions, tips, alteration guidelines, and more. The not so good news is that reading a sewing pattern can be overwhelming for even the most experienced sewists. Fortunately, vintage and modern print sewing patterns, along with digital patterns all have similar information. When it comes to sewing basics, you will want to learn how to read a sewing pattern as one of the first things you figure out. It's important to learn how to understand a sewing pattern because sewing a dress, a pair of pants, shirt, or other items is a process that takes time, energy, and money that you don't want to lose. Even though every pattern has a particular set of instructions, sewing symbols, and notes, these sewing tips and tricks for patterns will help you gain knowledge to be prepared for your next project. Sign Up For More Free Patterns >>> Below, you will find one of our popular videos on how to read a sewing pattern as well as written instructions and pictures. Then, learn all about pattern symbols you will find on your sewing projects. From the grain line to the zipper markings and everything in between, you'll know exactly what all of the details on a pattern mean.

Hello my lovelies and thank you for visiting with me today on this beautiful Monday here in Australia. I hope that you have all loved seeing the tester pics of the new Harper Pants over at the shop and I am sure you will agree with me that each and every tester looks sensational wearing [...]

Traditional sewing patterns vs. digital sewing pattern. I love how this article clearly points out the differences. Great information about sewing.

ContouringThe information on this page was previously contained on a number of different pages. The information is now all on this page. Click on the links to be taken directly to the relevant section:Part 1: The Need For ContouringPart 2: Contour MarkingsPart 3: Sleeveless BlockPart 4: Standard Contouring AmountsPart 5: Individual Contouring AmountsPart 6: StraplessPart

Lord of the Rings News and Information

Rachele the Crab is a crochet pattern suitable for Intermediate/Advanced crocheters that are not afraid of sewing a few arms and legs.

If you've never heard of bobbin lace before, consider this your informal introduction to the glorious world of seriously old-school lacemaking!

Lossless capture of limbs bound in shirt nourished by tussle I depart for dirt – J.E.Purcell Designing my own clothing feels like channelling the spirit and ingenuity of long lost Romantic po…